Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 21 Nov 2000 20:35:43 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 20:35:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #343
Precedence: list

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck  Mailing  List

Visit our  web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject  of  the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Tue, 21 Nov 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 343

In This Issue:
Re: Another 460 Debate :-)
Re: D 60
Re: Thanks and more D60 questions
Re: D 60
Re: Another 460 Debate :-)
Re: [Fordnatics] 352 vs 351W compatibility
Re: D 60
Re: D 60
Re: D 60
Re: 4V Cleveland (Was Engine missing - 1978  400
Re: Thanks and more D60 questions
390 Oil Dipstick Tube
D 60 brake job
Just a note....:-)
Stroke
Re: Stroke
Re: Just a note....:-)
Re: D 60 brake job
Re: Thanks and more D60 questions
Re: Just a note....:-)
Re: Just a note....:-)
Re: Just a note....:-)
D 60

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Another 460 Debate :-)
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 08:50:52 -0800

The 460 is probably better.  I know one that got 21 mpg on the way to PF in
an older truck with EFI setup on it as I recall.

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)



> But which one gets better gas mileage?



------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: D 60
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 08:19:05 -0800



> Just curious, what had a D50 in the 70's???
I didn't mean to imply that the Dana 50 was used in the 70's.  What I meant
was mid 70's to present Dana 60s and 1980 and newer Dana 50s.

> A D60's axle U joints are huge compared to TTB D50.
I wonder if you might have an odd ball 50 with 44 shafts.  It would have to
have a unique stub shaft for the 30 spline hubs though.


> Does a solid axle D50 use king pins or ball joints?
I'm not sure myself.

Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke
"As fast as necessary, as slow as possible"




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 08:21:57 -0800
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Thanks and more D60 questions

>
>
>Now on to my questions...
>Here is what I found.  I'll apologize in advance for the simple questions.
>
>2. The pads need replaced badly.  The rearmost pad was almost down to the
>rivets.  Should I replace the springs/hardware when I replace the pads or
>is it ok to reuse them and just replace the pads.

I would change out the springs since you are in that far just to be
on the safe side.  Think of all the trouble it took to get to them in
the first place.  Do you really want to do it again?

>3. The passenger side drum didn't have any scoring and looked like it had
>enough surface area to be cut.  How can I tell for sure?  Do I need to
>measure the internal diameter or the thickness of the outer surface?

There should be a cast number on the drum that is the max diameter
that the drum can be turned.  this is measured by the inside diameter.

>4. The bearings had no grease in them whatsoever.  Based upon this is it
>safe to assume that I need to replace them?  Or can I get away with
>re-packing them and reusing them?  How can I tell?  Is there a writeup
>somewhere on doing this on the D60?

They should run is oil.  Gear oil is supposed to run from the center
section out to the hubs.  Reinstallation is usually set up with
grease (not completely packed) but enough to last until the gear oil
makes its way in.  If there was no gear oil in the hubs when you
removed the axle shaft I would check over the bearings in case they
were burnt at all.  Also check the oil level in the center section to
make sure it is full.  If the center section is full and no oil runs
out to the hubs something else is wrong.

>
>5. How do I remove the inner bearings?  Do I need some sort of punch
>that's the right size for the bearings?

Remove the hub seal and the bearing should just fall out.

>
>
>6. Is there a seal that needs to be replaced when you remove the inner
>bearings?  It kind of looks like there is a seal behind the inner
>bearings.

Yep,  there is a hub seal.  This should be replaced.

>7. What brand of bearings do you recommend?  I was looking at carparts.com
>and they've got BCA and Timken.  It looks like the Timken's would be
>roughly $50 more for a complete set of rear bearings (inner, outer, &
>race).  At the moment I know the current outer bearings are Timkens.

I would go with the Timken set.  Used many of their bearing with no trouble

>8. The "spindle" (I don't know if that's the right termÖ) that the inner
>bearing rides on had some scoring/pitting on it after I wiped it off.
>Should I be concerned about this and is there anything I can do about it
>short of replacing the axle?

Which part of the spindle?  Where the bearing rides or where the seal
would be?  The spindle is welded to the end of the axle so it would
need to be machined off and a new one re-welded on or the complete
housing would need to be replaced.

>9. When I retorque the wheel bearing retaining nuts is it ok to use an
>adapter on the torque wrench or will that skew the readings?

Use the adapter.

>
>10. If/when I do this would there be any interest in a writeup with
>pictures or is this too basic a process to document for the website?

I don't know of any off hand.  Take lots of pictures and notes when
you do it and soon there will be a page documenting the process :)

>Later,
>
>Eric Finn (Learning as he goes..)
>'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project still in progress)
>'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
>

--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 08:24:05 -0800
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: D 60

>
>>  Does a solid axle D50 use king pins or ball joints?
>I'm not sure myself.

Ball joints
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 11:32:38 -0500
From: William King <kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Another 460 Debate :-)

Karl,
Sorry this is late, but I was away for a week and I'm
just getting caught up in my digests.
Back around 1990 SuperFord magazine built a 460
with some very basic parts (mainly just a stock
block, heads, crank, rods etc., with an aftermarket
cam, intake, and Holley 750).  It cranked out 460 HP
on a dyno, and had an impressively flat torque curve.

I used the same basic approach to build my 429, and I'm
quite pleased with it.  I'll need a face-lift when I'm
40 due to the torque induced distortion of my face, but
that's a small price to pay for power :-)

If you like I can send you the specs of the parts they
used.  Just contact me off list.

Ohio Bill
1968 Torino GT 429 4v 5 speed
1968 F100 360 2v 4 speed

>What was the HP and torque on the '77 460's? Are there any tricks to find
>power on these motors cheap?
>Karl

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 10:36:14 -0600
From: "Don Yerhot" <DYERHOT nwhealth.edu>
Subject: Re: [Fordnatics] 352 vs 351W compatibility

I've installed 351W's in both my 65 F250 and 74 F100. Both have the stock trannies that came with either the original 352 (NP435) or 360 (Ford 3 speed). I had to use small block bellhousings. Actually the bellhousing and clutch in my 74 originally were in a 82 F150 with a 300/6. I used standard small block pilot bushings too. You have to use the 302 stanchions from a 69-79 and the 302 truck mounts on the block. The FE stanchions will actually work, but set the engine too high and forward. Exhaust manifolds from a van fit perfectly.

DonY


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 11:46:34 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: D 60



Jason Derra wrote:
>
> > Just curious, what had a D50 in the 70's???
> I didn't mean to imply that the Dana 50 was used in the 70's.  What I meant
> was mid 70's to present Dana 60s and 1980 and newer Dana 50s.

Well, my 95 D50 and 78 D60 don't use the same joint.

> > A D60's axle U joints are huge compared to TTB D50.
> I wonder if you might have an odd ball 50 with 44 shafts.  It would have to
> have a unique stub shaft for the 30 spline hubs though.
>

The dana 44 HD uses same joint as D44, which is a 1330, with 3.625 cap
to cap and either 1-1/16 or 1-1/8 caps. Mine has 1350's which has
dimensions I described in my last post. Have you actually measured your
D50's front U's? (assuming you have D50 TTB front). Might want to do
that before we speculate any further :-).

                                OX



--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 11:52:06 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: D 60



Don Grossman wrote:
>
> >
> >>  Does a solid axle D50 use king pins or ball joints?
> >I'm not sure myself.
>
> Ball joints

If that is the case, and it actually does use 1480 series U-joints, it
must use one monster ball joint knuckle!! :-)

                            OX


> --
> Don Grossman
> duckdon mac.com
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: D 60
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 09:26:02 -0800

Some newer D60's use ball-joints

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: James Oxley [mailto:luxjo thecore.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 8:52 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: D 60




Don Grossman wrote:
>
> >
> >>  Does a solid axle D50 use king pins or ball joints?
> >I'm not sure myself.
>
> Ball joints

If that is the case, and it actually does use 1480 series U-joints, it
must use one monster ball joint knuckle!! :-)

                            OX


> --
> Don Grossman
> duckdon mac.com
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 12:36:22 EST
Subject: Re: 4V Cleveland (Was Engine missing - 1978  400


In a message dated 11/21/2000 6:40:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dpearson ctc.edu writes:


> I have been wanting to do this.  I probably should know, but which
> manifold-carb combination did you go with?
>
>

I used a Edelbrock Performer manifold that came with the car when I bought
it.  I had a Holley on it, but it was in bad shape, so I took it off and used
the Stock carb off Tweety's 460.  The Edelbrock manifold has no provision for
the motorcraft exhaust style choke, but thats really not a problem where its
warm 90% of the year.  Runs really good, lots more mid and top range, Im not
sure of the gears in the rear, but 1st raps up to 55, 2nd to 78, and Ive done
120 in 3rd, and theres room for more.....  Four barrells are fun.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 12:38:23 EST
Subject: Re: Thanks and more D60 questions


In a message dated 11/21/2000 6:46:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ecfinn yahoo.com writes:


> 1. The pads are 12" x 2.5" NOT 12" x 3" like Bendix lists.  I think I'll
> use Wagner brake parts that list the 12" x 2.5".
>

If you turn the drums, you can upgrade to the 3'' wide shoes.  But I stress,
thats IF you turn the drums.  If you dont, it will all go together, just wear
funny, and not stop all to well.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 11:55:05 -0600
Subject: Re: 429/460 genesis
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

>> I think they came out the same time, but I believe the 460 was designed
>> first.  Logic behind this being that these engines are known as the 385
>> series, and the 460 stroke just happens to be 3.85 inches.  Make sense?
>>
>> Darrell & Tweety
>
> The 460 was introduced in 1968 in Lincolns in response to GM's introduction
> in 1967 of their newly designed 472 in the Cadillac line, followed in 1968
> by the 455 Olds, Buick and Pontiac (these were all different engines) and
> the 454 Chevy. The cube wars were on. In the back of my mind, I still have
> this little gray cell that nags me insisting that there was a short run of
> 490s in the Lincoln line during the early 70s, possibly only in the Mark 4.
> The largest production V8 was the 500 cube Cadillac engine produced from
> 1971 to 1976. It was originally exclusive to the Eldorado. This is why I
> think the elusive 490 may have been exclusive to the Mark 4, if it exists at
> all. Enough rambling...

I think I erred a little here. The Buick, Olds, and Pontiac V8s were new in
1967, but I think they were only 430 cubes then. I think the 455 versions
and the Chevy 454 showed up in 1971 when compression dropped.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 14:21:05 -0600
From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: 390 Oil Dipstick Tube

>anyone know where I can purchase a new dipstick and tube for a 71 390 FE?

I got a new dipstick tube from Ford for $16. They still list it. The
alternative is to braze up the old one. They all seem to crack near the
bottom eventually.

Doss Halsey
'67 F250 Camper Special


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: D 60 brake job
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 16:35:35 -0600


Eric F. writes and My responses between snips

>>2. The pads need replaced badly.  The rearmost pad was almost down to the
rivets.  Should I replace the springs/hardware when I replace the pads or
is it ok to reuse them and just replace the pads.<<

Replace hardware only if it is damaged or worn badly.

>>3. The passenger side drum didn't have any scoring and looked like it had
enough surface area to be cut.  How can I tell for sure?  Do I need to
measure the internal diameter or the thickness of the outer surface?<<

Internal - Have a place that turns drums to do it if you are in doubt about there
being enough material.

>>4. The bearings had no grease in them whatsoever.  Based upon this is it
safe to assume that I need to replace them?  Or can I get away with
re-packing them and reusing them?  How can I tell?  Is there a writeup
somewhere on doing this on the D60?<<

Look for blue tint and scoring or pitting on bearings and on races.  If they have
none of these then probably OK to repack and reuse.

>>5. How do I remove the inner bearings?  Do I need some sort of punch
that's the right size for the bearings? <<

The Inner seal holds it in and you have to destroy it to remove the inner bearing.

>>6. Is there a seal that needs to be replaced when you remove the inner
bearings?  It kind of looks like there is a seal behind the inner bearings.<<

See answer to #5.

>>7. What brand of bearings do you recommend?  I was looking at carparts.com
and they've got BCA and Timken.  It looks like the Timken's would be
roughly $50 more for a complete set of rear bearings (inner, outer, &
race).  At the moment I know the current outer bearings are Timkens.<<

Personal choice here.  I've never gotten any better or worse service between
major brands.

>>8. The "spindle" (I don't know if that's the right term.) that the inner
bearing rides on had some scoring/pitting on it after I wiped it off.
Should I be concerned about this and is there anything I can do about it
short of replacing the axle?<<

Don't be concerned with the small stuff.  Now if it is rusted half through or
bent or something obvious, then that is another matter. (It is a spindle.)
Unlike the surface of bearings and races, nothing really turns on the spindle,
except the area where the seal rides(seals). That little area is important.

>>9. When I retorque the wheel bearing retaining nuts is it ok to use an
adapter on the torque wrench or will that skew the readings?  The reason I
ask is that the 2 9/16" socket is 3/4" drive and I've only got a 3/8"
torque wrench.  I'd need two adapters to get it to work.  I've already got
the 1/2" to 3/4" adapter so I could remove the nuts.<<

Adapters do not affect the torque wrench reading.

>>10. If/when I do this would there be any interest in a writeup with
pictures or is this too basic a process to document for the website?<<

Your choice.  I'm sure someone down the line would appreciate it sometime.
Just because someone doesn't know how to do it, doesn't mean that they
wouldn't do it given the proper guidance and documentation..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Just a note....:-)
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 18:53:59 -0500

Got my own computer set up down stairs now after struggling with it for two
days.  Office is full of lady bugs and box elder bugs....thousands of
them...sprayed and sprayed and sprayed....where do the dang things
hide????!!

Anyhoo, I got all my old files and software setup at home from the work
computer along with a real copy of Outlook, the real one not express and
it's all set up now and working.  For someone who only needs to send text
and attachments and has no interest in all the goop Yahoo lets you do this
is a perfectly fine mailer but I hated the express version because is was
missing a couple of real helpful features.

Needless to say I'm now set up on an old 133, 486 with a 6 gig drive and 48
sp CD and 32 megs of  ram which I hope to fix down the road with a pentium
board one day but for now it works pretty dang well for what I'm doing with
it :-)

BTW, us Semi-Retired guys missed out on the computer deal Ford has so I have
to save my pennies and get one later on which is ok since I will probably
just build on this case since it's a very large tower with lots of drive
spaces.  Next on the list though is a 21" monitor......:-)  Here goes my
first "Send" from here, hope it works :-)

--
Happily, Semi-Retired
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Stroke
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 16:40:04 -0600


Gary asks>>Whats the stroke on the 351C?  3.35"? :-):-)

Yep!!!

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Stroke
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 19:12:02 -0500

Azie, I see you are getting bounced so your address isn't showing up, can
you send me your current email address so we can discuss your recent
purchase and my part in it...? :-)  (I think I have it upstairs, I'm just
being lazy :-))

--
Happily, Semi-Retired
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Gary asks>>Whats the stroke on the 351C?  3.35"? :-):-)
>
>Yep!!!
>
>Azie Magnusson
>Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 17:17:52 -0800
From: Negative Image <negativeimage earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Just a note....:-)

go to office depot. ask about thier custom to order system with the compuserve
rebate.

GaryBBB wrote:

> Got my own computer set up down stairs now after struggling with it for two
> days.  Office is full of lady bugs and box elder bugs....thousands of
> them...sprayed and sprayed and sprayed....where do the dang things
> hide????!!
>
> Anyhoo, I got all my old files and software setup at home from the work
> computer along with a real copy of Outlook, the real one not express and
> it's all set up now and working.  For someone who only needs to send text
> and attachments and has no interest in all the goop Yahoo lets you do this
> is a perfectly fine mailer but I hated the express version because is was
> missing a couple of real helpful features.
>
> Needless to say I'm now set up on an old 133, 486 with a 6 gig drive and 48
> sp CD and 32 megs of  ram which I hope to fix down the road with a pentium
> board one day but for now it works pretty dang well for what I'm doing with
> it :-)
>
> BTW, us Semi-Retired guys missed out on the computer deal Ford has so I have
> to save my pennies and get one later on which is ok since I will probably
> just build on this case since it's a very large tower with lots of drive
> spaces.  Next on the list though is a 21" monitor......:-)  Here goes my
> first "Send" from here, hope it works :-)
>
> --
> Happily, Semi-Retired
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
Andrew Rolfsen
1965 Ford F100 Flare Side 351c
1968 Mercury Cougar 302
1966 Plymouth Fury III 318



------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: D 60 brake job
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 18:35:10 -0600

Is the 2 9/16'ths socket the right size that fits the rear Dana 60 axle? I'm
just wondering because I'm pretty sure the pads need to be replaced, and I
just got this '70 F250 not too long ago, never messed with Dana axles
before, I'm used to my 9" =) I'm assuming NAPA carries this socket? Autozone
didn't have one big enough :)

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Azie L. Magnusson
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 4:36 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] D 60 brake job


Eric F. writes and My responses between snips

>>2. The pads need replaced badly.  The rearmost pad was almost down to the
rivets.  Should I replace the springs/hardware when I replace the pads or
is it ok to reuse them and just replace the pads.<<

Replace hardware only if it is damaged or worn badly.

>>3. The passenger side drum didn't have any scoring and looked like it had
enough surface area to be cut.  How can I tell for sure?  Do I need to
measure the internal diameter or the thickness of the outer surface?<<

Internal - Have a place that turns drums to do it if you are in doubt about
there
being enough material.

>>4. The bearings had no grease in them whatsoever.  Based upon this is it
safe to assume that I need to replace them?  Or can I get away with
re-packing them and reusing them?  How can I tell?  Is there a writeup
somewhere on doing this on the D60?<<

Look for blue tint and scoring or pitting on bearings and on races.  If they
have
none of these then probably OK to repack and reuse.

>>5. How do I remove the inner bearings?  Do I need some sort of punch
that's the right size for the bearings? <<

The Inner seal holds it in and you have to destroy it to remove the inner
bearing.

>>6. Is there a seal that needs to be replaced when you remove the inner
bearings?  It kind of looks like there is a seal behind the inner
bearings.<<

See answer to #5.

>>7. What brand of bearings do you recommend?  I was looking at carparts.com
and they've got BCA and Timken.  It looks like the Timken's would be
roughly $50 more for a complete set of rear bearings (inner, outer, &
race).  At the moment I know the current outer bearings are Timkens.<<

Personal choice here.  I've never gotten any better or worse service between
major brands.

>>8. The "spindle" (I don't know if that's the right term.) that the inner
bearing rides on had some scoring/pitting on it after I wiped it off.
Should I be concerned about this and is there anything I can do about it
short of replacing the axle?<<

Don't be concerned with the small stuff.  Now if it is rusted half through
or
bent or something obvious, then that is another matter. (It is a spindle.)
Unlike the surface of bearings and races, nothing really turns on the
spindle,
except the area where the seal rides(seals). That little area is important.

>>9. When I retorque the wheel bearing retaining nuts is it ok to use an
adapter on the torque wrench or will that skew the readings?  The reason I
ask is that the 2 9/16" socket is 3/4" drive and I've only got a 3/8"
torque wrench.  I'd need two adapters to get it to work.  I've already got
the 1/2" to 3/4" adapter so I could remove the nuts.<<

Adapters do not affect the torque wrench reading.

>>10. If/when I do this would there be any interest in a writeup with
pictures or is this too basic a process to document for the website?<<

Your choice.  I'm sure someone down the line would appreciate it sometime.
Just because someone doesn't know how to do it, doesn't mean that they
wouldn't do it given the proper guidance and documentation..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 19:45:17 EST
Subject: Re: Thanks and more D60 questions


In a message dated 11/21/2000 2:47:16 PM GMT Standard Time, ecfinn yahoo.com
writes:


> 7. What brand of bearings do you recommend?  I was looking at carparts.com
> and they've got BCA and Timken.  It looks like the Timken's would be
> roughly $50 more for a complete set of rear bearings (inner, outer, &
> race).  At the moment I know the current outer bearings are Timkens.
>
> 8. The "spindle" (I don't know if that's the right term…) that the inner
> bearing rides on had some scoring/pitting on it after I wiped it off.
> Should I be concerned about this and is there anything I can do about it
> short of replacing the axle?
>
> 9. When I retorque the wheel bearing retaining nuts is it ok to use an
> adapter on the torque wrench or will that skew the readings?  The reason I
> ask is that the 2 9/16" socket is 3/4" drive and I've only got a 3/8"
> torque wrench.  I'd need two adapters to get it to work.  I've already got
> the 1/2" to 3/4" adapter so I could remove the nuts.
>

As far as the bearings go I always use timkin if I can get them. If it's
pitted and scored where the seal rides it could allow grease to get into the
brake shoe area over time.  If it's in the area of where the inner bearing
race rides as long as you still have a snug fit on the inner race and the
race does not turn freely on the spindle shaft all should be fine as long as
you keep grease in the bearings.  With the torque wrench as long as you are
directly in line with the head of the torque wrench (like if you had an
extension on it you are fine,it will not change torque value.


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 19:58:27 EST
Subject: Re: Just a note....:-)


Seems to be working fine.  Just couse it's old and out dated don't mean it's
junk, after all why do we all write on this list.


Glenn in NY
78 F250



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Just a note....:-)
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 21:26:09 -0500

Well, you can make a truck run faster and you can make a computer run
faster but the cost can be close when you are working with ISA bus
cards, 486 processors and 72 pin simms.  The only thing I will salvage
in any serious upgrade will be the case and EIDE drives and, of course
the peripherals.  Like my trucks, I do like the old girl but computers
simply don't have the same classic lines as my trucks so they are less
likely to get "restored" or "restomoded" :-)  If I get around to it
before the next generation of hardware I can probably get one more
upgrade out of it but even the EIDE's are on the way out
now.......Suppose I could spray some classic truck paint on her
though....:-)  Maybe a mural or two, eh :-)

--
Happily, Semi-Retired
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Seems to be working fine.  Just couse it's old and out dated
>don't mean it's
>junk, after all why do we all write on this list.


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Just a note....:-)
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 17:19:12 -0800

I put flames on my boys' computer!

-----Original Message-----
From: GaryBBB [mailto:gpeters3 lni.net]

Like my trucks, I do like the old girl but computers
simply don't have the same classic lines as my trucks so they are less
likely to get "restored" or "restomoded" :-)  If I get around to it
before the next generation of hardware I can probably get one more
upgrade out of it but even the EIDE's are on the way out
now.......Suppose I could spray some classic truck paint on her
though....:-)  Maybe a mural or two, eh :-)

--
Happily, Semi-Retired
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Seems to be working fine.  Just couse it's old and out dated
>don't mean it's
>junk, after all why do we all write on this list.

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 17:27:46 -0800
From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: D 60

>The bearings had no grease in them whatsoever.

The bearimgs are supposed to be packed when installed.The 90 wt.lube
in the diff washes the wheel bearing grease out eventually.

> Based upon this is it safe to assume that I need to replace them?

No.

>Or can I get away with re-packing them and reusing them?  How can I tell?

If the bearings are good they should look like new.Shiny,no
discoloration etc..

>How do I remove the inner bearings?  Do I need some sort of punch
that's the right size for the bearings?

I get a block of wood that will just fit in the hub.I plase the block
against the bearing and GENTLY tap it out.This method may waste the
seal.........

>6. Is there a seal that needs to be replaced when you remove the inner
bearings?

Yes

>What brand of bearings do you recommend?

I like Timkin myself

>The "spindle" (I don't know if that's the right term…) that the inner
bearing rides on had some scoring/pitting on it after I wiped it off.
Should I be concerned about this and is there anything I can do about it
short of replacing the axle?

A little crocus cloth may clean it up a bit,but if it is wasted ,the
housing is shot.

>When I retorque the wheel bearing retaining nuts is it ok to use an ....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.