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Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 20:55:05 -0500 (EST)
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61-79-list Digest Sat, 18 Nov 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 339

In This Issue:
Re: temp sensor question
Re: re-upholstery kits
Re: temp sensor question
Re: temp sensor question
Re: ford truck moment
Re: Cataloug for 61-79 parts needed...
4*2 to 4*4 convertion
Re: 4*2 to 4*4 convertion
Re: 4*2 to 4*4 convertion
Re: Hubs locked?  was D 60
Re: Front Lockers etc.
Re: Another FORD At My House
Re: Another FORD At My House
Re: D 60
Re: 4*2 to 4*4 convertion
Re: 4*2 to 4*4 convertion
Re: temp sensor question
Re: Another FORD At My House
PLEASE PLEASE HELP
Still tinkering
Re: Wanted: Kickdown lever measurements

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 23:07:43 -0500
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Re: temp sensor question

Thom Batty <shelba molalla.net>

>Okay, this is feeling like a dumb question, and usually I could get it for
>myself, but this is a brain fade kind of day.  I am installing an
>aftermarket temperature gage, just until I can get the factory gages working
>properly.  The problem is, I am not seeing where the stock sending unit
>screws in to the block.  I did see one bolt or plug going into the block in
>an area the looks like it should be water jacket on the passenger side,
>toward the rear of the block.  I am working on a 300" six in a 66 F250.
>Where is an appropriate place to install the sensor on my gage?
>
>TIA
>Thom Batty
>66 F250 Utility


Thom, the stock position for the water temp sender on a 240 and 300 engine
is along the side of the block, at the rear, on the right side. The oil
pressure location is directly opposite this on the left side. I have never
installed an aftermarket water temp guage, so I'm not sure where to install
the sending unit for one. Could you use a t-fitting and install them both
in the same location? I know this is done for oil senders, but not sure
about the water temp. I'm curious also because I would like to install one
in the future.

-don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters



------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: re-upholstery kits
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 22:36:59 -0700

> Rich, I remembered that I have the book "Automotive Upolstery Handbook",
> which I got from a discount book store for $4.

I'll have to see if I can find this book or one like it.  Now that it was at
a discount store for you, when I find it it will be on the rare antique book
shelf for me.  Thats the way my luck runs. :-)

> I got it after I made the
> seat cover and learned all the little mistakes I made. :)

Of course I'll need it so I can study up on the ones I will inevitably make.

>I checked about
> recovering a basic bench seat, and the author recommends using the old
> ripped seat padding, but stuffing all of the cracks with cotton batting.
> This is basically a soft fluffy thick sheet of cotton. Then lay a full
> sheet of it over the entire pad. This smooths everything out, gives
volume,
> and adds a comfortable top.

The problem with Utah weather is that it doesn't crack foam, it vaporizes
it.  Most of mine litterally fell out of the seat in sugar-like granuals.
It has been outside now so the springs are a bit rusty as well.

>The project seat was a truck bench seat for a
> "big" guy, so he also stuffed the *underside* of the seat with foam
strips,
> and wrapped the spring coild with cotton batting to make the springs
quiet.

Hey!  I can relate to "big".  Try 300lbs. big.  And I have twin boys that
when they get home will drive the truck again quite frequently.  One is 305
lbs. and the other left at 275 lbs. but has dropped 40 lbs.hoofing it around
Spain.  So we could use the "big" suggestions.

> You might also want to check an auto upolsterer in your area to see how
> much a new seat cover would cost. I know that some people have gotten
great
> deals on brand new custom stitched seats, and this would allow you to pick
> the color and style of the cover. Good luck.

I have called a few shops but most want around $500 to "do it right".  I
just have way too many things on the priority list ahead of that.  So I
thought I would give it a try myself.  I had to take apart a Sub**ban seat
to repair the broken frame and had no trouble whatsoever getting the
upholstery back on and looking pretty darned good.  Of course then I know
that putting already broken in parts back together is easier than trying to
get the new stuff stretched out right.

> Hope this info is helpful.

It is!  Thanks for your help,

Rich



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 06:23:52 -0800
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: temp sensor question



Don Haring wrote:
<snip>

>  I have never
> installed an aftermarket water temp guage, so I'm not sure where to install
> the sending unit for one. Could you use a t-fitting and install them both
> in the same location? I know this is done for oil senders, but not sure
> about the water temp. I'm curious also because I would like to install one
> in the future.
>
> -don
>

Yes, you can use a T. You would also need a nipple about 3" long if you're using
a mechanical guage. The guages I've used (Stewart Warner) have a probe about 2"
long that contacts the coolant. IMO, they work best if the probe can go right
into the block.

Greg
Freezing in Maine this morning!


------------------------------

From: "Shelley Batty" <shelba molalla.net>
Subject: Re: temp sensor question
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 07:11:21 -0800

Thanks, Don.  That is the location I was looking at, that is currently
plugged.  explains why the stock gage is not working.

Thom Batty
66 F250 Utility

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Don Haring
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 8:08 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: temp sensor question


Thom Batty <shelba molalla.net>

>Okay, this is feeling like a dumb question, and usually I could get it for
>myself, but this is a brain fade kind of day.  I am installing an
>aftermarket temperature gage, just until I can get the factory gages
working
>properly.  The problem is, I am not seeing where the stock sending unit
>screws in to the block.  I did see one bolt or plug going into the block in
>an area the looks like it should be water jacket on the passenger side,
>toward the rear of the block.  I am working on a 300" six in a 66 F250.
>Where is an appropriate place to install the sensor on my gage?
>
>TIA
>Thom Batty
>66 F250 Utility


Thom, the stock position for the water temp sender on a 240 and 300 engine
is along the side of the block, at the rear, on the right side. The oil
pressure location is directly opposite this on the left side. I have never
installed an aftermarket water temp guage, so I'm not sure where to install
the sending unit for one. Could you use a t-fitting and install them both
in the same location? I know this is done for oil senders, but not sure
about the water temp. I'm curious also because I would like to install one
in the future.

-don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters


========================================


------------------------------

From: BRussAZ aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 11:12:27 EST
Subject: Re: ford truck moment

In a message dated 11/18/00 7:24:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dolinick hotmail.com writes:

<< I already got her a rebuilt carbeurator and four new drums(brakes).
Still she runs rough especially on cold mornings.

Dan (daniel olinick san antonio, texas) >>

Dan,
Funny about this..mine also cant seem to get it right when Winter hits...mine
is 240 I6 with a 1bbl.  Wonder what it is about getting Ford carbueration
right.  Oh well....

Bill


------------------------------

From: "Ford F250" <fordf2501977 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cataloug for 61-79 parts needed...
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 10:14:21 PST

Thanks for the help!!!

>
>www.dennis-carpenter.com
>www.lmctruck.com
>www.autokrafters.com
>
>That covers most of them, I think I links to a few others on my webpage.
>
>
>Garrett www.1966ford.com

Does anyone know of a company that specalizes in parts for these beasts?
>
>   Karl
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------------------------------

From: "Ford F250" <fordf2501977 hotmail.com>
Subject: 4*2 to 4*4 convertion
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 10:19:55 PST

Has anyone converted an f250 to 4 wheel drive?  Are the rear suspension
mounting points the same?  How much work this take to modify the front part
of the frame to accept 4*4 suspension?  I realize that the 4*4's frame rails
are wider, but what else is different???????

Thanks, Karl
_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 10:52:34 -0800
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: 4*2 to 4*4 convertion

>Has anyone converted an f250 to 4 wheel drive?  Are the rear
>suspension mounting points the same?  How much work this take to
>modify the front part of the frame to accept 4*4 suspension?  I
>realize that the 4*4's frame rails are wider, but what else is
>different???????
>
>Thanks, Karl

As far as the frame being wider it depends on which year and which
part of the frame you are talking about.  Rear end is easy.  just
adjust to the desired height as the front.  As far as the front end
is concerned the frame width is the same (give or take a little for
manufacturing tolerances over the years) between 58-79.  May be
earlier but I have not gone back that far yet.  Figure 57 should be
the same width as well.  The frames are different between 2x4 and 4x4
between 65-79 (3/4 ton=67-79).  What it comes down to is how do you
want to convert to 4 wheel drive ( coil, leaf, air) and if you have
the time and resources to make all the brackets, drill all the holes
and whatever needs to be done.

Almost all coil spring trucks( 2wheel drive) need about 6" of lift so
that the front axle will clear the cross member under the engine.
That is if you leave the stock cross member in place.  the
possibilities are almost endless.

quickest way to go is swap the frame.

laters
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

From: "Randy Collins" <rcollins micron.net>
Subject: Re: 4*2 to 4*4 convertion
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 12:14:22 -0700

I have done the conversion.  It's a lot of work.  It would be MUCH cheaper
and simpler to swap your cab/sheet metal to a 4wd rolling chassis.

There was an article in one of the 4wd magazines about converting a 1/2 ton
2WD to a 4WD.  The article made the swap look reasonable.  The 3/4 ton 2WD
and 4WD frames are different.

I converted a 1975 F250 Supercab to 4WD.  I did it by welding the front
frame rails of a 1977 1/2 to 1979 style F250 4wd to the 1975 frame.  The
splice was made just in front of the cab mounts.  The later model frame was
3/16" wider than the 1975 2WD supercab frame.  I used the bottle jack from
my cherry picker to spread the frame so the welds would be flush.  I did
quite a lot of research on frame welding and repair prior to starting the
project.  I had a section of 1/4" plate bent so it would slip over the
welded frame to reinforce it.

Be warned that this project along with installing the 460 creates LOTS of
work...but it can be done.

Randy Collins
1975 F250 Supercab 4WD
460 Cobra Jet


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ford F250" <fordf2501977 hotmail.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 11:19 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] 4*2 to 4*4 convertion


> Has anyone converted an f250 to 4 wheel drive?  Are the rear suspension
> mounting points the same?  How much work this take to modify the front
part
> of the frame to accept 4*4 suspension?  I realize that the 4*4's frame
rails
> are wider, but what else is different???????
>
> Thanks, Karl
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.
>
> Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
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> =============================================================
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> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Hubs locked?  was D 60
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 13:50:21 -0800

If you analyze the mechanics involved you will see that there is, indeed, a
torque multiplication involved....."Because" of this lack of differentiation
you speak of.  A bronco with 104" wheel base can develop up to 1.44:1 ratio
between the front and rear axles in a full lock turn.  This ratio causes
what we loosely call "Axle wrap" or, more correctly, "Driveshaft Wrap".
Once the slack has been taken out of the drive train the 1 side of the ratio
drives the 1.44 side until tires begin to slip.  How much torque does it
take to make tires slip?  A great deal more than it takes to drive the
vehicle down the road at speed with all axles free to rotate.  The problem
with this phenomenon is that once the pressure is applied, it stays there
until you take it out of 4wd or hit a slippery spot that allows the wheels
to relax.

If you think the pressure is insignificant, back your 5000# bronco up at
full lock on pavement for just a few inches, no more than a foot and then
try to get it out of 4wd without breaking the shifter.  If you want a
classic example try backing up in a military truck with sprague clutches in
the drive line and then just take off in second gear and see how far you get
before your arm is broken by the steering wheel.  These are HUGE forces, not
just your normal wear and tear and if you continue to drive at speed with
these pressures on your drive line the parts will definitely wear MUCH
faster, especially the poor transfer case that really has to deal with the
greatest torqe factor.

In our "relatively" light vehicles the tires "can" spin so we don't see the
huge effects this has on the drive line like you do in heavy trucks that are
so heavy the tires simply can't break loose on pavement so the "wrap" builds
to much higher values.  If you have a chain drive xfer case you will scrap
the chain pretty fast running full time on pavment with a part time xfer
case that does not have the differentiation of the 203's etc..

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> > One thing you don't want to do is run in 4w with them locked on pavement
> > because it multiplies the torque load on the gears
>
> The reason you don't want to run 4wd on the pavement is there is no
> differential between the front and the rear which causes drivetrain
binding.
> It does not multiply any of the torque to the gears



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Front Lockers etc.
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 14:02:41 -0800

A friend of mine had Torsens on both ends and said it was awesome on every
surface he tried it on.  I've had experience with LS on the rear but not
both.  The popular recommendation is no lockers in front for reasons you
mention but LS are supposedly Ok.

If the surface is so slippery that the LS has a significant impact on
handling, chances are it would also be too slippery to make predictable
turns with any setup.  If your speed is consistent with conditions I
wouldn't expect too much trouble with it.  The True Trac and Torsens use a
different system so there is no preload to affect Icy driving like the
clutch types could so would be best to use in front if you can afford it :-)

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Wouldn't a LS on the front make the truck harder to handle in loose stuff?
> I'm thinking about turning on slippery surfaces (ice, sand etc).  Since LS
> would try to force both wheels to turn at the same speed it seems the
truck
> would have a tendency to plow straight when trying to turn.


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Another FORD At My House
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 14:07:25 -0800

If it were EB green/tan I'd say you came across the Perfect Bronco :-)  Now
all you need is a 460.........

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> let y'all in on it too.  Got a '78 Bronco today.  :o)  Ranger XLT, 351M,
blue
> and silver.


------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 15:31:33 EST
Subject: Re: Another FORD At My House

In a message dated 11/19/00 3:12:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 lni.net writes:

<< If it were EB green/tan I'd say you came across the Perfect Bronco :-)  Now
all you need is a 460.........
 >>

Why does everybody always say 460?  Aren't the 429s just as good?  Besides we
already have a 429.  Just gotta convince dad the Bronco is the perfect home
for it.  :o)  Just like I had him convinced the '65 was a perfect home for
said 429.  Oh well.  :o)


~Melissa
Marietta, GA
1978 Bronco  "Brutus"
1989 Bronco XLT
ICQ#84544993
Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line...
Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 15:32:33 -0500
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: D 60

Well, I can get a picture of my buddies' 2000 F-350 4x4 that is a dana-60
this coming weekend-- Maybe they just started doing only 10.25's
recently?   I'm not quite as blind as "old man" Stu when it comes to
correctly spotting axles.. hehehe

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ceoweb.mts.kent.edu/~mustang/trucks.html

Jason and Tony,

>I went out this afternoon and checked the rear axle tag - you are correct,
>it is a 10.25
>and NOT a Dana 60.  8^(  There is a hand written "60" on the front of the
>case which I noticed
>while it was on the rack for servicing (normally I do my own oil changes
>but for my
>service, I took it to a local shop).
>
>The tag says: 3.73  10 2 0c10
>
>I would say it is a 10.25 and not a 60 as originally thought.  Those 60s
>and 10.25's sure do look a whole lot alike though.
>
>Marino no longer gets to have axle envy!  8^(
>
>Stu
>Nuke GM!
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm  (for sale!!!)


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 15:34:37 -0500
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: 4*2 to 4*4 convertion

Karl,

All I can say is yes, a machinist by profession, a welder by profession,
and a myself did it to a '68 F-250.. This is no easy task-  let me just say
if you aren't handy with steel fabrication, it would be a chore-- it's
actually much easer to convert a 1/2 tonner than a 3/4 tonner.   If you
want me to go into details I can, but IMHO it's MUCH easier (and cheaper)
to find yourself a frame to do.

Tony

At 10:19 11/19/2000 -0800, you wrote:
>Has anyone converted an f250 to 4 wheel drive?  Are the rear suspension
>mounting points the same?  How much work this take to modify the front
>part of the frame to accept 4*4 suspension?  I realize that the 4*4's
>frame rails are wider, but what else is different???????
>
>Thanks, Karl
>_________________________________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.
>
>Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com.
>
>=============================================================
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>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Ford F250" <fordf2501977 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 4*2 to 4*4 convertion
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 12:39:51 PST

Anyone know of a place to find an extended cab long bed 3/4 (better yet 1
ton) frame to fit under my truck?  as long as I'm doing this I might as well
drop in a powerstroke diesil since I intend to do quite a bit of long trips.
 Another option is buy a new truck with a bad motor.

Karl
Mid California


>>Has anyone converted an f250 to 4 wheel drive?  Are the rear
>>suspension mounting points the same?  How much work this take to
>>modify the front part of the frame to accept 4*4 suspension?  I
>>realize that the 4*4's frame rails are wider, but what else is
>>different???????
>>
>>Thanks, Karl
>
>As far as the frame being wider it depends on which year and which
>part of the frame you are talking about.  Rear end is easy.  just
>adjust to the desired height as the front.  As far as the front end
>is concerned the frame width is the same (give or take a little for
>manufacturing tolerances over the years) between 58-79.  May be
>earlier but I have not gone back that far yet.  Figure 57 should be
>the same width as well.  The frames are different between 2x4 and 4x4
>between 65-79 (3/4 ton=67-79).  What it comes down to is how do you
>want to convert to 4 wheel drive ( coil, leaf, air) and if you have
>the time and resources to make all the brackets, drill all the holes
>and whatever needs to be done.
>
>Almost all coil spring trucks( 2wheel drive) need about 6" of lift so
>that the front axle will clear the cross member under the engine.
>That is if you leave the stock cross member in place.  the
>possibilities are almost endless.
>
>quickest way to go is swap the frame.
>
>laters
>--
>Don Grossman
>duckdon mac.com
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>

_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 15:41:16 -0500
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: temp sensor question

HOLD UP!!!

The factory location or a temp unit is on the absolute backside of your
head between the back of the motor and the firewall-- I've installed every
kind of Autometer gauge known to man on my '300, and that's the one I used
because the split manifolds covered the other one.   Depending on what kind
of guage you are buying, you can't use a mechanical sending unit on some
because the temp pobe is too long and will hit the cyl wall.   If you are
using an electrical sender, you'll be fine.  But don't take that plug out
before you check the rear of the head.  8-)

Tony



At 07:11 11/19/2000 -0800, you wrote:
>Thanks, Don.  That is the location I was looking at, that is currently
>plugged.  explains why the stock gage is not working.
>
>Thom Batty
>66 F250 Utility
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
>[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Don Haring
>Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 8:08 PM
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: temp sensor question
>
>
>Thom Batty <shelba molalla.net>
>
> >Okay, this is feeling like a dumb question, and usually I could get it for
> >myself, but this is a brain fade kind of day.  I am installing an
> >aftermarket temperature gage, just until I can get the factory gages
>working
> >properly.  The problem is, I am not seeing where the stock sending unit
> >screws in to the block.  I did see one bolt or plug going into the block in
> >an area the looks like it should be water jacket on the passenger side,
> >toward the rear of the block.  I am working on a 300" six in a 66 F250.
> >Where is an appropriate place to install the sensor on my gage?
> >
> >TIA
> >Thom Batty
> >66 F250 Utility
>
>
>Thom, the stock position for the water temp sender on a 240 and 300 engine
>is along the side of the block, at the rear, on the right side. The oil
>pressure location is directly opposite this on the left side. I have never
>installed an aftermarket water temp guage, so I'm not sure where to install
>the sending unit for one. Could you use a t-fitting and install them both
>in the same location? I know this is done for oil senders, but not sure
>about the water temp. I'm curious also because I would like to install one
>in the future.
>
>-don
>
>Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
>FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
>61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters
>
>
>========================================
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Another FORD At My House
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 14:50:35 -0800

Well, I don't want to be sacreligeous but.......I actually like the 429
better in some ways :-)  The 460 is a work horse and has more "native"
torque but the 429 will rev quicker and Azie says it is the prefered motor
for medium trucks out his way, that is farm trucks in the 600-700 class.

I'll just say this and leave it at that......there is no way possible to
gain the performance you get with a stock 460 any cheaper than by bolting
one in.   To bring any other engine up to that torque potential would cost
easily as much as a rebuilt 460 and then you would be working it to death
where the 460 just does it naturally :-)

My Pickup has been off the road for a while but when I get in it now it
reminds me why I love that engine so much.  It's just a dream to drive a
vehicle with one in it.  Like a rheostat, smooth, instant, push you back in
the seat accelleration with just the slightest pressure on the go pedal.
When I get back into the bird or Star I feel like I'm pressing on a wet
sponge for all the performance I get and they are neither one of them a
slouch by todays standards either.  They certainly do get me where I'm going
but the truck is more fun :-)

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

>  all you need is a 460.........
>   >>
>
> Why does everybody always say 460?  Aren't the 429s just as good?


------------------------------

From: "Daniel Beiers" <dbeiers rmpprestress.com>
Subject: PLEASE PLEASE HELP
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 14:26:42 -0700

So I am trying to put power steering on my 67 f-100.  I got a crank pulley
off of a 74 or 75 f-250 w/ a 390.  Problem is my 390 has a single groove
pulley bolted to the end of the crank with no balance weight.  The donor
vehicle has your typical harmonic balancer on it.  It appears I need to use
the balancer from this truck in order to bolt the crank pulley on.  Will
this work? and will my motor still be balanced (assuming it is right now:)?
Thanks a lot, I really appreciate any help you can give me...

Dan



-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Garrett Nelson
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2000 10:29 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Cataloug for 61-79 parts needed...



www.dennis-carpenter.com
www.lmctruck.com
www.autokrafters.com

That covers most of them, I think I links to a few others on my webpage.


Garrett www.1966ford.com





 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Ford F250
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Friday, November 17, 2000 3:19 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Cataloug for 61-79 parts needed...


 Does anyone know of a company that specalizes in parts for these beasts?

 Karl



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To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Still tinkering
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 19:43:36 -0500

Well the work never seems to end on the old beast. I had to change a tie rod
so I converted from a '77 to '78 steering style. All new components, and it
actually went quite well (for a change). Since everything was apart I got
the annual bearing cleaning done and other checks and looked for a clunk I
heard. If anyone changes their body mounts (I used "Energy Suspension", very
nice) be sure to go back and re-torque later. My rear mounts were just
finger tight. I also decided to change my front fenders to a new set of Ford
ones I had and decided on a new grill shell also. I used the number provided
by the list (D6TZ-8200-A) and it was in stock and my parts guy sold it for
just over $200.00Can. Now all that's left is the installation of the tranny
cooler, thermostat and filter setup I picked up (gotta love overtime).
   Can anyone tell me which is the preferred method of mounting the cooler,
directly to the rad with the supplied mounts or with a bracket just in front
of the rad? Thanks for any help. At this rate I may just finish before
retirement (20 years).
John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

From: "John Watson" <johnw illawarramercury.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Kickdown lever measurements
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 12:53:36 +1100

Thanks

I will give it a go.


John

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Lee" <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 9:24 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Wanted: Kickdown lever measurements


>
> John,
>
> Another alternative is a Lokar Kickdown Cable Kit,
> aviailable from a speed shop or good auto supply. Also
> from Summit Racing on-line. I am using one of these on
> my 400/C6. The cable can be routed around headers and
> other things that may interfere with a rod. There is a
> return spring that mounts on the tranny. It is easy to
> install.
>
> Dan Lee
> '53 F100
> 400C-4V
>
> > From: "John Watson" <johnw illawarramercury.com>
> > Subject: Wanted: Kickdown lever measurements
> > Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 23:56:14 +1100
> >
> >
> > > Help,
> > > I need a kickdown lever....
> > > Does anyone have some measurements and angles for
> > the bends for a kickdown
> > > lever for a 4bbl cleveland to C6 auto.  None of
> > the wreckers seem to have
> > > one, so I thought if I get some aluminium tubing,
> > I could make up one
> > quite
> > > simply. All I need is the angle of the bends and
> > lengths.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > John Watson
> > > 81 Bronco 351C 4bbl holley C6 Auto ....


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