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61-79-list Digest Fri, 03 Nov 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 323

In This Issue:
Re: Was move to Colorado, now winter driving.
Re: Move to Colorado (Ford Truck Recomendations)
Re: Moving to Colorado
Re: ADMIN: SEMA Show / Meet the web master
Re: dizzy fix
Re: dizzy fix
Re: dizzy fix
Exnay on that cab
Re: Steering box problems
Re: 300 4bbl SIGH
Re: Move to Colorado (Pinto Recomendations)
Re: Colorado driving
Re: Colorado driving
Help!  My truck won't run.....:-(
Re: 61-79-list] Re: Anyone need a cab?
My F250 XLT 460 >>400 Modified
Re: drive shaft

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Nov 2000 11:27:53 -0600
From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: Was move to Colorado, now winter driving.

I have to throw my .02 in.

Leave it to Gary to follow a semi up a mountain pass in a Pinto:>).
Sometime I wonder how you made it to retirement:>).  Glad to have you
around tho.

Now winter driving.  I run a F-250 Supercab that runs 39 x 18.5 x 16.5
tires.  I run these all year long.  I live in Northwestern PA (snowbelt
is all to well known).  Last winter, I only used 4wd once, and this was
to get out of my driveway, (we had 17" on snow in a 24 hour period).  I
very rarely even lock in my hubs.  I grew up driving big RWD Fords.
Driving tecnique is key to winter driving.

As to the invinsable 4x4 drivers, I have pulled enough so many of them
out of the ditch in the winter.  A buddy of mine just bought a new D&^%e
and it was his 1st 4x4.  The first night in the snow, while in 4wd, spun
it around and put in the ditch on the otherside of the road.  Well, the
Ford (was running on 7 cyl., with more slop in the front slip yoke than
I care to remember (dented the exhuast at 1 point)) pulled him out.  It
is still a standing joke that the 20 year old truck came to the rescue
of a truck that had not even had its first payment paid:>)

You should be fine driving a 2wd as long as good judgment, weight and a
little skill is used.

Good luck
Steve S.
54 F-100
76 F-350 Crew cab
77 F-250 Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 11:35:52 -0500
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Re: Move to Colorado (Ford Truck Recomendations)

Dave Resch <Dave.Resch sybase.com> said:
(snip)
>Prepare your vehicles for cold weather operation.  Make sure your
>antifreeze/coolant is good, make sure the battery is good, and make sure the
>choke and cold temp operation of your engine is up to spec.  Otherwise, pay
>attention to the basic maintenance issues to keep them from escalating to the
>point of stranding you in unpleasant conditions.  If you plan to drive a
>lot in
>less populated areas, carry a winter survival kit.


Also, don't forget to lube all the chassis and suspension fittings! I drove
my Club Wagon all winter, including several fully-loaded moving trips
through ice and snow. I was lazy and didn't relube after driving through
all that muck. One of my kingpins froze from rust. >:^{  That was an
expensive, time-consuming, and frustrating lesson (if anyone remembers, my
van was towed as I was fixing the front axle).

The van is now in my garage undergoing a 240-to-300 swap. After that, we'll
begin turning it into the wild 60s kustom that it deserves to be. Haha,
plan are secret for now. >:)

Remember -- lubrication is your friend. :)

-don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Nov 2000 10:04:54 -0700
From: "Richard Currit" <RCURRI state.wy.us>
Subject: Re: Moving to Colorado

Heres my $.02.  I grew up in the eastern Cascades of Washington
(Cashmere to be exact, wet heavy snow).  Lived on the West Slope of
Colorado (Delta, dry powder snow) for six years working for the Forest
Circus and have lived in Cheyenne, WY (dry powder, usually with bare
spots in places and 6 foot drifts in others)  for the past 7 years .
Concerning duallies.  They do fine, you just have to know that it is'nt
going to hook up as well.  As somebody said you can remove one tire but
the normal trick is to let some air out of the inside tire and chain up
the outside one.  This way the chained tire is outside the packed rut
and gives a good bite in the fresh snow.   Skinny tires are a must in my
opinion and not just for snow.  We get incredible afternoon
thunderstorms in the summer, in Western Colorado those Morrison
Formation clays turn to a gumbo mess after about two drops, here in
Wyoming its bentonite.  No control with wide tires, and keep those
chains in the truck year round.  In the mud put them on a little loose
so they can slap the mud off.  4x4 is a great thing, if you plan on
doing much Elk hunting its pretty much a necessity, the snow can get
pretty deep in the high country this time of year, and it can get deep
very quickly.  If your going to stay down on the flats 2x4 is adequate.
As others have said just take it easy, keep plenty of weight in the
back, have deep cleated skinny tires and as my Dad always told me, drive
a half mile in front of you.   As far as what truck to get, Bronco's are
a big favourite around here.  In fact there are never any for sale as
people hang onto them.  Any Ford will do you well, but then, we all
already knew that.

High Plains Richard
'72 F-100, 300 I6 (2x4, but I was plowing snow with the front bumper
for about 6 miles last night, afterwork Elk hunting don't ya know.
Anybody got a good Bronco for sale????)

------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 13:38:04 EST
Subject: Re: ADMIN: SEMA Show / Meet the web master

In a message dated 11/3/00 10:54:24 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kpayne ford-trucks.com writes:

<< We'll have several
FTE t-shirts to give to any FTE users that show up.  Look forward
to meeting some of you! >>

HEY!  I didn't get a T-Shirt at the Supernats.  All I got was a FTE sticker.
:o)~
Just messin' with ya Ken!  Its all good.  :o)  By the way the FTE sticker
looks pretty cool on my Bronco.  :o)

~Melissa
Marietta, GA
1965 F100 Custom Cab...sadly parting out.  :o(
1989 Bronco XLT...with one cool FTE sticker on the windshield.  :o)
ICQ#84544993
Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line...
Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It.

------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: dizzy fix
Date: Fri, 03 Nov 2000 20:25:47 GMT

I pulled a couple old distributers out of the shed the other day, a FE
points and a 302 Duraspark.  I started taking them apart to know how to get
to the advace weights and springs (before I tear into the one I'm using),
and low-and-behold the tops look interchangeble.  Could I take the Duraspark
weights, springs and pickup plate and put it into the FE points dist?  Once
they were all apart, it looks like it would change right over.  The only
modification is cutting the hole for the wires a little bigger.  It works in
my head, do you think it would work for real?  Any obvious snags that I have
over looked?

My brother has been dying to get Duraspark for his '67 352, this would work
out good - hopefully...

While I am taking it all apart, are there any bushings or bearings that
should be replaced in this 30 year old dist?  What should I look at for
signs of wear?

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it.

Marty
*digest mode*
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------------------------------

From: Matt Senn <msenn avistacom.net>
Subject: Re: dizzy fix
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 12:51:51 -0800

i bought a Cardone re-man distributor for my 390 and turned in the old
points one as the core, it cost me $49 at checker . . . i used a duraspark
II module off my dad's old 79 fairmont wagon and a wiring harness out of a
newer car . . . everything worked great!


-----Original Message-----
From: MARTY COLMAN [mailto:colman76 hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 1:26 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: dizzy fix


I pulled a couple old distributers out of the shed the other day, a FE
points and a 302 Duraspark.  I started taking them apart to know how to get
to the advace weights and springs (before I tear into the one I'm using),
and low-and-behold the tops look interchangeble.  Could I take the Duraspark

weights, springs and pickup plate and put it into the FE points dist?  Once
they were all apart, it looks like it would change right over.  The only
modificatio

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: dizzy fix
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 12:59:22 -0800

Did along these lines on Dad's '67 240 when he switched to electronic
ignition.  Bought a reman points dist for $29 and $60 for the Pertronix
conversion.

Total cost for electronic conversion: $89.  The stock points can be stuck
back into the dist. in the unlikely event the unit fails.  Can't do that
with Duraspark, plus no ugly module box.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying the Duraspark conversion is dumb or bad,
but if you want a clean, stock looking system with few parts, Pertronix is
the way to go, IMHO.

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Senn [mailto:msenn avistacom.net]
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 12:52 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: dizzy fix


i bought a Cardone re-man distributor for my 390 and turned in the old
points one as the core, it cost me $49 at checker . . . i used a duraspark
II module off my dad's old 79 fairmont wagon and a wiring harness out of a
newer car . . . everything worked great!


-----Original Message-----
From: MARTY COLMAN [mailto:colman76 hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 1:26 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: dizzy fix


I pulled a couple old distributers out of the shed the other day, a FE
points and a 302 Duraspark.  I started taking them apart to know how to get
to the advace weights and springs (before I tear into the one I'm using),
and low-and-behold the tops look interchangeble.  Could I take the Duraspark

weights, springs and pickup plate and put it into the FE points dist?  Once
they were all apart, it looks like it would change right over.  The only
modificatio

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 16:10:22 EST
Subject: Exnay on that cab

Sorry folks, but Im having to remove that cab from the auction block so to
speak.  Dont ask me how, but this desert cab has rotted floor boards.  My
guess is it has something to do with the fact there has been a missing window
for about 8 yrs.  Rain water probab;y stayed soaked into all the dirt for
long enough to rust this poor truck away.  Damn shame, as there is no rust
any where else.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Steering box problems
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 18:21:04 -0500

Try Chip at www.powersteering.com, he gave me a real competitive quote to
rebuild the PS box on my '77 4x4.  I haven't used him for anything yet, but
he comes very well recommended on a classic car webring I frequent (while
not working on Fords!!).

----- Original Message -----
From: Art Verling <art.verling excite.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 10:37 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Steering box problems


> Last week I posted a question about replacing my front end with a MII
front
> clip prefab unit. I think I am just going to repair my steering box and
> rebuild the front end. Who can I call to rebuild the steering box? Do I
just
> try the 74 F100 power steering change over? Power steering would be nice
> with the wide tires I am sporting. Someone said to try to adjust the
> steering box, but it has a weird grumbling feeling inside when I turn the
> wheel. I think it is past its prime. I would appreciate any comments.
> Thanks,
> Art Verling
> 64 F100
> art.verling excite.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
> =============================================================
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> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl SIGH
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 19:56:12 -0800

IMNSHO, the two into one is the best truck exhaust unless you plan to keep
it above 4500 rpm most of the time.  I believe the two into one actually has
some advantages over true duals in that it keeps the exhaust pulses much
smoother for a much greater portion of the system which has a very
pronounced affect on power at lower rpms especially.  You only really need
more "Room" in the pipes when you run at WOT and then the size and length
depend on the actual rpm and engine size etc...

What most of us are actually doing is trading a little efficiency for great
looks and sound most of the time.  If you don't run a proper balance tube in
a dual exhaust system on a V-8 you are actually hampering the low rpm
performance and if you don't also tune the fuel system to match the new
exhaust you will also lose performance.  In the case of an in line 6 with a
properly set up dual, tri-y header you can get perfect pulsing in the tubes
and no balance tube is needed but the header has to put the correct
cylinders together so that the pulses are every other firing pulse in each
tube or you lose most of the advantage again.

Many don't realize that you can actually reduce performance with an
improperly set up dual system.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> The header is dual outlet, so I theoretically could run true dual exhaust.
> My wife votes for this (with glass packs) for the sound/coolness factor.
> Actually, she voted for scrapping the 6 in favor of a V8--"they sound
> cooler"--but money and time's an issue here :).



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Move to Colorado (Pinto Recomendations)
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 20:05:14 -0800

Actually it was pretty awesome :-)  Have you seen that Tracker commercial
lately on TV?  He hooks up to a semi with his "Brand new, hooty tooty V-6"
and tows the whole thing to the nearest service station out in the middle of
nowwhere??

I pulled my 9k pound F-600 across town and back home with that little
stinker.  It had the little 2000 engine in it with a 4 speed.  It actually
got around in the snow pretty well unaided too.  Probably one of the best
"Stock" snow cars I ever owned.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> > .that pinto was pretty awesome :-)
>
> It was the chains. I never leave home without them.


------------------------------

From: DWeaver232 aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 20:54:50 EST
Subject: Re: Colorado driving

My advice from someone that learned to drive here and is an avid skier. (used
to be a skinut, if it was snowing I went skiing) Don't buy your truck just
for winter conditions,what are you going to do with it for the other 330 days
the weather is great here. If you are going to play off pavement than a 4wd
is fun, but if you are going to use it as a truck then buy what you need.
Also depends on what type of commute you are going to have. (if driving on
I25 with all the nuts in suv's that still do 70+ in the snow different things
are required) If a 2wd is all you need then some type of limited slip is
recommended, be aware that locker types can cause the rear end to act strange
on ice. Good snow tires at a minimum, on all four wheels. Studs on rear
wheels better, on all 4 best. However studded tires will hum/whin, but you
will stop and steer ALOT better. If commuting on the highway then a heavy
fiberglass top will help add weight over the rear wheels and more protection
to you if you flip onto your top. Extra weight in the bed. (i have 150 pounds
of lead bolted between the wheels in my winter driver, a rear wheel drive
car) An automatic may be preferred if you have a long commute on the highway
since it may slow to a crawl because of accidents. Chains have really not
been needed for several years here,at least with studded tires on all four
wheels, but if you will be driving very remote roads and have to get
somewhere then are worth carrying.  Just relax, pay attenion to whats going
on down the road, don't get mad at the suv that blew by at 70 and REMEMBER
that bridges and sections of road that have holes underneath them will freeze
into a layer of ice even if the road is just wet. Had one maybe two
fatalities north of Golden the morning from that happening. The snow car I
want is a full size, with frame, Ford station wagon with the third seat.
SWMBO will really love this for a car, but since I havn't found one she
doesn't have one.

Terry Weaver
Golden CO
Snowing sunday and I'll go skiing 3 maybe 4 times next week
78 F350 srw street tires, won't make it out of the driveway if it snows a
trace

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Colorado driving
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 07:27:14 -0800

I have to agree with the limited slip.  My van was actually pretty awesome
in the snow and vans typically are not considered snow friendly.  It was
even more awesome when I converted it to 4x4 and added the 460 :-)

Studs are illegal in Michigan but must be legal somewhere since they still
make them, eh?   I had them on one vehicle here in spite of this and have to
say that they were the cat's meow on ice for sure.  Not quite as good as the
1/4" sheet metal screws I put in my Suzuki but.........

Do the police still stop traffic after storms in certain areas and require
chains to continue?  I've run into this on a couple of occasions.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> are required) If a 2wd is all you need then some type of limited slip is
> recommended, be aware that locker types can cause the rear end to act
strange
> on ice. Good snow tires at a minimum, on all four wheels. Studs on rear
> wheels better, on all 4 best.


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Help!  My truck won't run.....:-(
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 07:39:35 -0800


Put some bad gas in it a while back so had to take the sock off and add some plain brake line to the pickup.  Fuel pump died, probably due to this so replaced electric fuel pump at tank along with it's pre-filter.  Good to go for a while then it starts stalling again.  Replaced the carb filter and good to go again, ran fine all the way to the dump but on the way home it fizzled again, all the way down to idle and even quit at idle.....RATS ##$$%%$# .  Half way home I thought I'd try banging on the stupid fuel pressure regulator and flip the adjuster around a few times and VIOLA!  she went again for a few yards.......RATS! #$%^^%^%$$# #.

Finally got home and took that STUPID fuel pressure regulator off and it "Seems" to run fine now.  Got to go to town this morning to get some rocks out of my Motherinlaw's yard so that will be the test :-)  Been suspecting that silly contraption for some time now and in my mind been blaming it for the lack of Poop at 80 in second gear that it used to have but was never sure.  Think I'll give it a test on the way to town, hope I don't get a ticket..........(or...do I? :-))

Since it's a 460 I could probably run straight line all the way and drill all the carb passages out to 1/4" or so and won't need any stinking filters to clog up again......:-)  Say!.......I wonder if a fuel furnace tank filter would work.....???  You know like an A-21?  One thing's for sure they sure keep the microns down but what about flow??

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)


------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: 61-79-list] Re: Anyone need a cab?
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 09:39:57 -0600

Hmm Why you gotta live so far away darrell.

----- Original Message -----
From: <JUMPINFORD aol.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 6:42 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 61-79-list] Re: Anyone need a cab?


> HEy Don, I talked with the powers that be, and the cabs are the same, they
> just punched the holes they needed accordingly.  If the holes arent what
you
> need, just plug em off, and punch the right ones out.  Should already have
> the proper indentaions.  Also this cab doesnt have A/C, but if you need
it,
> just cut the right hole into the cowl.  Only other thing is its red, with
a
> white roof.
>
> Darrell & Tweety
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Nov 2000 07:47:05 -0800
From: Don <donr nidlink.com>
Subject: My F250 XLT 460 >>400 Modified

for a couple hundred don't sound bad but if thre is the factory electrical
sending unit for oil pressure...might be worth it to put a mechanical oil
gauge on and see what that reads...this I have found to be true on 78/79
351/400's on bronco and trucks
Don

At 23:00 10/30/00 -0800, you wrote:
>I might have a chance to get a used 400 modified engine for a couple hundred
>dollars the question is:
>Owner says that it has low oil pressure, so needs a new oil pump.  Is there
>anyway to verify that its the oil pump without the expense of changing it?
>Is there anything else with the 400 modified that could cause low oil
>pressure that we haven't thought of?
>
>
>Dawn Chere
>dawnchere ados.com


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Nov 2000 07:48:52 -0800
From: Don <donr nidlink.com>
Subject: Re: drive shaft

 I needed a new rear driveshaft for my 79 bronco and bought it from some
shop in arizona and shipped to north idaho for about 200 bucks...
Don

At 10:26 10/31/00 -0600, you wrote:
>I think if you get a drive shaft from a f-150/250 long bed a drive line shop
>can cut it for you for your size.  It will probably be cheaper then getting
>one made.
>
>-Don Thurlow
>
> > Have one built at a driveline shop.   Measure from the front axle yoke to
> > the transfer case yoke at a normal loaded height.   This will give them an
> > idea of where to start.


------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #323
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