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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 31 Oct 2000 11:38:13 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 11:38:13 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #318 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Mon, 30 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 318 In This Issue: Q-jet carbs for fords Re: 351M vs. 400- Same Harmonic Balancer? Re: Uh-Oh! Putting a Chevy alternator on a 390? Re: Uh-Oh! Putting a Chevy alternator on a 390? Re: 56 F100 in the Stable Putting a Chevy alternator on a 390... continued w/ more Re: 351M vs. 400- Same Harmonic Balancer? vacuum guage timing Re: Putting a Chevy alternator on a 390... continued w/ m Re: Putting a Chevy alternator on a 390... continued w/ Re: 351M vs. 400- Same Harmonic Balancer? What's wrong C/M timing set Re: Timing Re: 56 F100 in the Stable slop in front end (this is getting expensive) Re: slop in front end (this is getting expensive) drive shaft My F250 XLT 460 >>400 Modified Re: 56 F100 in the Stable 72 302, unknown solenoid For Sale:'79 F-150 S/C 4x4 & 460 kit Steering (Again!) Re: What's wrong Re: drive shaft Re: drive shaft Re: Micarta Carb Spacer ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 15:28:52 -0800 From: Eric <ekdonaldson bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Q-jet carbs for fords An excellent primer on Q-jet id. Thanks, Ballinger. I might try one on my 352, mainly to improve fuel economy. Can you suggest a model that will mate to the Ford (66) std trans throttle linkage with the least difficulty? Eric ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 18:28:26 -0500 From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: 351M vs. 400- Same Harmonic Balancer? Andersons wrote: > > Thanks for the information, guys- and the manual vs. auto question is moot, > as the same manual trans and flywheel will be kept on this project. The > original balancer is very heavy, almost 2" thick, and in great condition. > > Looks like I dodged a bullet there. But, now I'm getting real worried about > this block cracking issue being discussed on the 351M/400 list- I'm sure my > engine falls into the problem time period, but not sure yet of the casting > origin. Have a good thought for me.... > What 351M/400 list?? OX ------------------------------ From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Uh-Oh! Putting a Chevy alternator on a 390? Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 18:49:18 -0600 ----- Original Message ----- From: Garrett Nelson <> > I hope I don't fire up too much controversy, but I am considering putting a Chevy alternator on my 390. I'm gonna regret admitting that I have a GM part on my truck, but I've suited up in my best Nomex and am ready to be flamed!:-) Garrett and list, I have a GM alternator on my 390. I drilled out the long mounting bolt hole (bottom of the alternator) to fit the larger Ford bolt, and shortened the front of the mounting bolt hole about 3/4" so the Ford bolt will engage the threads in the block properly. I re-used the aluminum spacer from the Ford mounting system. At this point, if anyone can understand my instructions, the alternator will bolt up to the block. Double check to make sure the pulleys line up before moving on to the wiring. Now for the wiring. Pull the voltage regulator and all the associated wiring off the truck. There should be a factory plug in there somewhere by the horn relay. It's a three prong with a small red, small yellow, and a large black with a yellow stripe wire. Leave the black and yellow striped wire intact and plugged in-this feeds the fusebox. The red and yellow wires can be cut or rolled up and tucked away for later use with a Ford system. Now run a large wire(6-8guage-bigger the better, up to a point)) from the output terminal on the alternator to the positive side of the starter selonoid. Last, run a smaller wire(14-16guage) from a fuse that is powered by the key in the "run" position to the two prong plug that goes in the side of the alternator. This wire activates the voltage regulator. I wired this wire to both sides of this two prong plug. If I have explained this right, you should be done. DISCLAIMER Anytime you modify an electrical system, you run the risk of doing something wrong and possibly causing more harm than good. Use the proper size wiring and use high quality insulated wiring connectors. Black tape is not a proper substitute, in my book. I am not responsible for any damage to anyone's truck. If something in my instructions doesn't sound right, please feel free to ask for clarification. I will gladly run out to my truck during a thunderstorm or tornado to trace wiring so nobody burns their wiring harness to smithereens. :-) Jason Kendrick ------------------------------ From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Uh-Oh! Putting a Chevy alternator on a 390? Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 18:56:49 -0600 By the way, the alternator I used was from an '85 Buick Skylark. It'll push 85 amps. The wiring instructions in my directions are for my 1970 F100. I imagine '67 to '72's are pretty similar, but 66 and prior, along with '73 and later trucks may have different wiring systems. Jason Kendrick ------------------------------ From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 16:58:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: 56 F100 in the Stable At 02:47 PM 30:10:2000 GMT, wish wrote: >> I wouldn't use a Mustang II front clip if I were you, I've never understood > >>why everyone is enamoured with the M II front end components, > >'Cause they're cheap, easy to find, easy to find parts for, did I mention cheap >? They have a decent and compact SLA design instead of the strut front ends >that most vehicles are using these days ... and the street rodders that have >the light vehicles really took to them, The operative word being "light" > that means LOTS of aftermarket support >from that side of things, and some pretty beefy components are available ... >besides I don't think many of them are using the brakes from the II, I'd hope not, even the Mustangs of that era were marginal when it came down to braking performance... >just the front sub frame and suspension components ... (not actually the clip as the >clip is fenders and such too and who wants that ? :) No one would want *that* >Aerostar front ends ? that's the first I've heard of anyone using those ... They aren't, but I will be, my '63 is going in the weeds... >do they use a strut in the front, or the more traditional shock/control arm >arrangement ? Upper and lower control arms, rack and pinion steering, and a really beefy anti-sway bar, plus, they're about the right width right out of the box... Plus, decent braking... Steve & the Rockette 68 F100, 390cid, FMX 63 F100, 292cid, 3speed 72 Capri 2000, hers 73 Capri 2600, terminal cancer... 73 MGB GT, Our Toy 94 SHO, SWMBO's 98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine.... ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Putting a Chevy alternator on a 390... continued w/ more Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 19:05:28 -0600 Thanks for the replies everyone. I guess I should have been more specific. I am not getting an actual GM alternator, but rather a brand new aftermarket alternator made by a third company, designed for a Chevy engine. Should I look for an alternator designed for a specific year of GM vehicle? The alternator type I am looking at has a built in regulator that is self-energizing. The alternator only has 1 terminal on it. I will be running some large (4 gauge or so) wire from that terminal to the + battery terminal. Simple as can be! Simple is good! ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ------------------------------ From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: 351M vs. 400- Same Harmonic Balancer? Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 17:18:39 -0800 The message board on the web site. /// Smith & Wesson...the Original point & click interface \\ ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Oxley" <luxjo thecore.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 3:28 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 351M vs. 400- Same Harmonic Balancer? > > > Andersons wrote: > > > > Thanks for the information, guys- and the manual vs. auto question is moot, > > as the same manual trans and flywheel will be kept on this project. The > > original balancer is very heavy, almost 2" thick, and in great condition. > > > > Looks like I dodged a bullet there. But, now I'm getting real worried about > > this block cracking issue being discussed on the 351M/400 list- I'm sure my > > engine falls into the problem time period, but not sure yet of the casting > > origin. Have a good thought for me.... > > > > What 351M/400 list?? > > OX ------------------------------ From: Dlkiehl aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 20:18:23 EST Subject: vacuum guage timing I saw a note on the list about timing with a vacuum gauge. I have had several Ford products on which the timing marks have slipped when the harmonic balancer aged. Would someone give me a step by step quick-course? I have a '65 F-100 with a 352 & 3 spd., a '59 Lincoln 430 (automatic), and a '66 427 Ford (Chris Craft), and I have trouble getting the timing right on all of them. Thanks, Darryl in Atlanta ------------------------------ From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Putting a Chevy alternator on a 390... continued w/ m Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 19:25:13 -0600 I think in my last Summit cataloge, I saw a self-exciting voltage regulator that will eliminate the smaller wire. This way, when you hack up a factory production (inexpensive) alternator, you will feel better than when you hack up an expensive third party specialized alternator. Plus, replacements are cheaper. Jason Kendrick ----- Original Message ----- From: Garrett Nelson <garrettnelson writeme.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 7:05 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Putting a Chevy alternator on a 390... continued w/ more info > > Thanks for the replies everyone. I guess I should have been more specific. I am not getting an actual GM alternator, but rather a brand new aftermarket alternator made by a third company, designed for a Chevy engine. Should I look for an alternator designed for a specific year of GM vehicle? The alternator type I am looking at has a built in regulator that is self-energizing. The alternator only has 1 terminal on it. I will be running some large (4 gauge or so) wire from that terminal to the + battery terminal. Simple as can be! > > Simple is good! > > ---Garrett www.1966ford.com > > > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 21:28:31 -0800 From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Putting a Chevy alternator on a 390... continued w/ Garrett Nelson wrote: > Thanks for the replies everyone. I guess I should have been more specific. I am not getting an actual GM alternator, but rather a brand new aftermarket alternator made by a third company, designed for a Chevy engine. Should I look for an alternator designed for a specific year of GM vehicle? The alternator type I am looking at has a built in regulator that is self-energizing. The alternator only has 1 terminal on it. I will be running some large (4 gauge or so) wire from that terminal to the + battery terminal. Simple as can be! > > Simple is good! > > ---Garrett www.1966ford.com Napa sells the "one wire" alternator which is what I use on my heavy equipment. They work great ... you gotta rev 'em a little on start-up to get them to start charging and I've had some that needed to be polarized when first installed. One word of advice ... on diesel engines, the 5/16 tensioning bolt will break from vibration. This may not happen on a smooth running Ford engine, but drilling and tapping it to 3/8 cures that problem. Greg > > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Re: 351M vs. 400- Same Harmonic Balancer? Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 22:21:49 -0500 Sorry, I meant "Message Board"- the one at http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=DCForum ID12&conf=DCConfID1 ----- Original Message ----- From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 6:28 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 351M vs. 400- Same Harmonic Balancer? > > > Andersons wrote: > > > > Thanks for the information, guys- and the manual vs. auto question is moot, > > as the same manual trans and flywheel will be kept on this project. The > > original balancer is very heavy, almost 2" thick, and in great condition. > > > > Looks like I dodged a bullet there. But, now I'm getting real worried about > > this block cracking issue being discussed on the 351M/400 list- I'm sure my > > engine falls into the problem time period, but not sure yet of the casting > > origin. Have a good thought for me.... > > > > What 351M/400 list?? > > OX > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > > ------------------------------ From: tomzaddr webtv.net (Tom Bartz)
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 21:33:18 -0600 (CST) Subject: What's wrong Been searching for bed caps to fit 1969 F100 . When I look at FORD-TRUCKS online store there is no description or price???? Tom B ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: C/M timing set Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 21:34:10 -0600 Dav R.(M block devotee) writes: >>Yes. The M-block has the same crank-to-cam spacing as the 351C.<< Thanks. That ought to be the way to be sure you get straight up timing on the M. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 22:44:38 EST Subject: Re: Timing Thanks Dave. Kinda confirmed mu suspishioons / hunches. Now to convince the SWMBO (that aught to be a cold day in hell)! George M in Fl. In a message dated 10/30/00 12:41:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, Dave.Resch sybase.com writes:
> Yo George: > > The low rpm power improvement is noticeable, but not dramatic. The more > you use > low rpm (particularly towing or climbing hills), the more you'll notice it. > If > you have over 50K miles on the original timing set and you need to replace > it > anyway, I'd recommend it. > > >The first I had a RV style of cam with a double > >roller gear & chain set. It ran nice though I > >dont remember any reall big or dramatic > >change once I was done (many moons > >ago). The newer one I know was a shop > >rebuilt with Im assuming stock parts > >(hey, I needed one and the price was > >right). Even though Ive got a new > >manifold, 4bbl, & headers on the new > >motor, it still doesnt feel as good or > >strong as the origional one without all > >that stuff. > > The bottom line is that a better cam goes farther in producing power from > the > M-block than all the external goodies. Of course, all the external goodies > will > bring a lot more out of a good cam. > > If you're thinking about getting in there for the timing set, I'd recommend > upgrading the cam and really taking advantage of the carb and headers you > have > now. > > Dave R (M-block devotee) > George ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 20:07:28 -0800 (PST) From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 56 F100 in the Stable I have a TCI coil-over shock (MII type) on my '53 F100. It has 11" Rotors and GM calipers. These MII suspensions are easy to install and have lots of extra features. Stronger coil springs are available for bigger engines. They can be purchased in all polished stainless for shows. You should go on the pre61 list, there are lots of trucks with these suspensions and others there. I have a 400 and C6 in mine. It also has PS and PDB. They only problem that you may have is the ride height. I actually had mine raised by 2" when it was installed, so it would clear speed bumps and curbs. Dan Lee '53 F100 400C-4V >Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 19:46:10 -0800 (PST) >Subject: Re: 56 F100 in the Stable >I just found and purchased a '56 F100 to add to my >FOMOCO stable. Using a 78 F250 (FTE content) with a >friend to go pick it up tomorrow morning. Have a >Mustang II front clip and have other non-stock plans >(which is very unlike me!). >I wouldn't use a Mustang II front clip if I were you, >I've never understood why everyone is enamoured with >the M II front end components, you should check out >the Aerostar front ends, at least the brakes are rated >for more than 3K lbs... __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "Don Jones" <twistedhand hotmail.com>
Subject: slop in front end (this is getting expensive) Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 05:17:33 GMT I finally got a chance to work on my truck on Sunday. what started as one silly little bearing is going to be a complete steering rebuild. Looks like things started with a bent tie-rod that threw the toe-in out of whack and that peeled a tire.. I got the tie-rod off, have to make a trip to my parts truck for a straight one, ordered two new tie-rods, drag link, 4 steering bearings, and a pair of wiper seals. Wiper seals were listed under Jeep in the Moog parts book. It looks like the load on the steering bearings is set with shims. Is there a method for setting this up, or do i just shim it so all the free play is out? While i am on the topic of bearings, its been a while since i have had wheel bearings off, these run in oil, not grease and have funny slotted nuts that looks like its going to be hard to get adjusted right. I am guessing that the toe-in should be about 1/16th of an inch, but i have never set it on a 4 wheel drive before. Don Jones 1970 f-250 ~Fordzilllla~ _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 22:28:01 -0700 From: Dave Oneal <dave davesmonsterpit.com>
Subject: Re: slop in front end (this is getting expensive) the bearings in the front end of my `75 were gone and I replaced them, I set the preload with some shims I made out of sheet metal, just till you cant move it up and down (as the book said). I dont know how you set the toe in. you can get a wrench for those nuts at any parts store. At 05:17 AM 10/31/00 +0000, you wrote: > I finally got a chance to work on my truck on Sunday. >what started as one silly little bearing is going to be a complete >steering rebuild. Looks like things started with a bent tie-rod that >threw the toe-in out of whack and that peeled a tire.. >I got the tie-rod off, have to make a trip to my parts truck for a >straight one, ordered two new tie-rods, drag link, 4 steering bearings, >and a pair of wiper seals. Wiper seals were listed under Jeep in the Moog >parts book. > > It looks like the load on the steering bearings is set with shims. >Is there a method for setting this up, or do i just shim it so all the >free play is out? > > While i am on the topic of bearings, its been a while since i have > had wheel bearings off, these run in oil, not grease and have funny > slotted nuts that looks like its going to be hard to get adjusted right. > > I am guessing that the toe-in should be about 1/16th of an inch, >but i have never set it on a 4 wheel drive before. > > >Don Jones >1970 f-250 ~Fordzilllla~ >_________________________________________________________________________ Dave Davesmonsterpit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.davesmonsterpit.com ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: drive shaft Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 00:26:45 -0500 Anyone know where I could purchase a drive shaft for my 79 Bronco? The truck's just a little higher than the slip joint in the shaft will allow. Should I find a longer axle in a yard and have someone cut it, or is there a nice place on the web that will sell me a good product at a reasonable (cheap) price? many thanks, -bob- ------------------------------ From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: My F250 XLT 460 >>400 Modified Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 23:00:58 -0800 I might have a chance to get a used 400 modified engine for a couple hundred dollars the question is: What years would be compatible with our 78 v8 460? Is it possible to just drop and bolt it right in? Or do we have to do any modifications to the tranny, bell housing, exhaust, or anything else we might not have thought of? Owner says that it has low oil pressure, so needs a new oil pump. Is there anyway to verify that its the oil pump without the expense of changing it? Is there anything else with the 400 modified that could cause low oil pressure that we haven't thought of? We are moving to Colorado by the way in Dec or Jan so I need to get the truck running as cheaply as possible. Dawn Chere dawnchere ados.com
St. Helens, OR 78 Ford F250 XLT 460 78 Ford F100 Straight 6 ($500 OBO) 90 Plym Voyager SE V6 ($1000 OBO) 91 Dodge Shadow ES Convertible ($2000 OBO) 86 Shelby Charger Turbo 79 Porsche 931 Reach me by ICQ. My ICQ # is 36500512 or, send me E-mail Express directly to my computer screen 36500512 pager.icq.com
------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 23:03:55 -0800 From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman qwest.net>
Subject: Re: 56 F100 in the Stable Wish: You hit the proverbial nail on the head. I'll be doing exactly what you described (increasing the rotor size & calipers etc.) The other beauty of this conversion is that one doesn't have to cut the frame like with the Nova or Volare clip installations. Besides this will be a truck that will no longer be a hauler because I have a 71 F100 for that duty. If this is a weak alteration, why do the Fatman's etc. of the world promote it? Re: the Aerostar I believe it is a strut type suspension which won't work in my installation. Tim Bowman Burien, WA tkbowman qwest.net
Website: www.users.qwest.net/~tkbowman (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more) Wish wrote: 'Cause they're cheap, easy to find, easy to find parts for, did I mention cheap ? They have a decent and compact SLA design instead of the strut front ends that most vehicles are using these days ... and the street rodders that have the light vehicles really took to them, that means LOTS of aftermarket support from that side of things, and some pretty beefy components are available ... besides I don't think many of them are using the brakes from the II, just the front sub frame and suspension components ... (not actually the clip as the clip is fenders and such too and who wants that ? :) ------------------------------ From: "InkDezJim" <inkdezjim email.msn.com>
Subject: 72 302, unknown solenoid Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 05:37:50 -0600 Hey guys. Yes, still alive and reading as much as I can, just busy with life. I have a stumper here. I bought a 72 F-100 2WD a few months ago. I bought it for the solidness of the body and to use as a general truck while I finish my 69. It is an Explorer with a 302 C4, AC, PS. After much hassle getting it running, I drove it back from Greensboro, NC to Nashville, TN. Upon getting back, I was going to invest in a quick valve job. The inside of the rocker valley was so caked up with dried, hard crud, not goo, that I pulled the engine. I tore down the bottom, and all the bearings were down to copper. All oil passages were plugged. It took 5 times in the parts washer plus several cans of carb cleaner, some gun cleaning brushes and about 2 hours with a pressure washer to open them all up. Well, it is all rebuilt and back together, and here is the real question. When dismantling it, there was some form of unknown solenoid for vacuum that no one has been able to identify for me. It appears to be factory. It was mounted to the back, top corner of the passenger-side valve cover, on a nice special little stud that replaces the normal valve cover bolt. It has a simple in and out fitting for vacuum, neither of which was hooked to anything. The power for the solenoid uses a brown wire that comes from the fire wall, which is switched power. I have traced this into the wiring harness and it appears to be a factory wire, but I have not determined anything further about what circuit it is tied to. the ground side of the solenoid had a long wire that was dangling free down around the transmission, and ends in a round molded rubber plug about an inch in diameter that has a single-post femal socket inside. The outside of the wire for about 6 inches from the plug is insulated with woven material like it is normally in a hot environment. Can anyone tell me anything about what this is, its purpose, or anything? I have not been able to find any reference to it anywhere so far. I am curious because everything appears to be a factory installation on it. Jim Elliott '69 F-100 2WD (the eternal project) '72 F-100 2WD (hopefully NOT an eternal project) ------------------------------ From: Ford4WDSuprCab79 aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 07:48:10 EST Subject: For Sale:'79 F-150 S/C 4x4 & 460 kit For Sale: 1979 F-150 XLT Supercab 4x4 Approx: 109,000 Miles Body is decent for a 20 year old truck. Not "spotless" by any means, but good. Bed floor is the usual. (Appears underbody had been treated with "Z-bart" undercoating at some point). 351M V-8 New main bearing installed, new oil pump, new fuel pump. Runs strong. C-6 Automatic Front and Rear leaf springs 31" tires, 70% tread New brake pads, shoes, front calipers, and rear wheel cylinders (Misc. extra parts to go too. Sliding rear window, tail lights, etc.) 460 conversion "KIT" for your installation project Includes: - NOS Ford 460 bare block - '77 460 (complete) - rear sump oil pan, pick-up, support bolt - 460 "van" alternator bracket - 460 "truck" exhaust manifolds - L&L 460 motor mounts Price: $2200.00 Interested parties should email me privately. I intend to list it locally if no one here is interested. Dale Frenz Columbus OH ------------------------------ From: "Dave Emerick" <djemerick hotmail.com>
Subject: Steering (Again!) Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 08:32:41 EST Hi all..... I asked over the weekend, but received no response....so I'll ask again ! Does anyone have any diagrams of the '78/79 F250 4x4 steering set-up? My two Ford truck manuals show nothing... I'd appreciate the help ! Dave _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 08:32:20 -0600 Subject: Re: My F250 XLT 460 >>400 Modified From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> Owner says that it has low oil pressure, so needs a new oil pump. Is there > anyway to verify that its the oil pump without the expense of changing it? > Is there anything else with the 400 modified that could cause low oil > pressure that we haven't thought of? Any engine: worn out main bearings can cause low oil pressure. Water in the oil can cause low oil pressure. Low viscosity oil can cause low oil pressure. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 10:26:15 -0500 From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: What's wrong At 10:33 PM 10/30/00, you wrote: >Been searching for bed caps to fit 1969 F100 . When I look at >FORD-TRUCKS online store there is no description or price???? >Tom B We temporarily removed a couple of product sections because the distributor who was supplying those parts was having problems fulfilling some of our orders. Rather than have any more problems or upset customers, I dropped them until I can find a replacement. Right now, only items we can keep in stock are listed. Ken Payne ------------------------------ From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: drive shaft Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 08:30:01 -0800 Have one built at a driveline shop. Measure from the front axle yoke to the transfer case yoke at a normal loaded height. This will give them an idea of where to start. Jason '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435 '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke "As fast as necessary, as slow as possible" ------------------------------ From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: drive shaft Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 10:26:18 -0600 I think if you get a drive shaft from a f-150/250 long bed a drive line shop can cut it for you for your size. It will probably be cheaper then getting one made. -Don Thurlow > Have one built at a driveline shop. Measure from the front axle yoke to > the transfer case yoke at a normal loaded height. This will give them an > idea of where to start. > Jason > '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435 > '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke > "As fast as necessary, as slow as possible" > > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 12:32:42 EST Subject: Re: Micarta Carb Spacer Great info, thanks. Ben Williams '71 Wagoneer '78 F-250 4x4 '88 Bronco > From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
> Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 20:29:02 -0800 > > Micarta is used for all manner of applications but most are where a solid, > stable base is needed for spacers or non conductive forms for holding parts. > They are all pretty stable but there are special types for special jobs. > For a carb spacer I would venture that almost any that you find will be > adequate. They vary in density, number of layers per inch etc. and also the > type of resin used to give them less porosity etc.. BTW, porosity as > defined here is extremely low in all cases but some applications require > extremely stable material and it can be found in one of the Micarta types .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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