 |
|
|
|
|
|
Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Sat, 28 Oct 2000 14:27:13 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 14:27:13 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #315 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Fri, 27 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 315 In This Issue: Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter Re: Vintage Tach questions E-Brake cable for '78 56 F100 in the Stable Re: Trailer Special or not? Re: 56 F100 in the Stable Re: slop in dana 44 front Re: 21 mpg 460? Re: Fw: [EBE] [Fwd: ford] Re: Wooden Carb Spacer Re: Pertonix Ignitor Re: Vintage Tach questions Engine Paint NEW e-mail address carb spacers Re: Wooden Carb Spacer Re: Engine Paint Fw: lmb need coil seats and retainers for 78-79 Re: Engine Paint Re: carb spacers Re: Wooden Carb Spacer Re: Edlebroc? Re: slop in dana 44 front Re: 69 F100 4x4 Camper specials Re: Camper specials Frankenstein F150 Double Cab!: Was cab and box swap Re: Frankenstein F150 Double Cab!: Was cab and box swap ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: north40 verinet.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:33:05 -0600 Subject: Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter Here's a coouple of things that might make you thinkabout using dogwood, unless there's a real good reason not to: I had a great uncle who told us stories of driving trucks through Pennsylvania in the 20's. He'd occasionally have to stop a trip to "make" some new brake shoes for these old 'T's and such he was driving. He said he'd use dogwood as it stood up to the heat of braking. This guy was a character,ended up as a township fire chief until he retired and could do all that stuff that you see all the old guys two or three generations ahead of you do. Later, as I was going through a couple of chains cutting down a dogwood in a retired guy's backyard, he told me of logging in 'the old days' (probably the same time my great uncle was driving, by the looks of him) and that they'd begin a new lot by making wedges out of dogwoods to use to fell the larger oaks, maples and elms. I cut a few wedges out of what we cut down and used 'em until some idiot threw them out of the tool box a year later. I dunno, sounds like a candidate for material anyway. Harry Vermillion ------------------------------ From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Vintage Tach questions Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 19:13:58 -0500 My SunPro tach goes to 8k, and on the back of it is a little switch that you use to switch between 4,6, and 8 cylinder. Yeah, I don't think I'm going to be seeing 8k with my stock 240 =P. Only been near 6k with it and that was screaming! ________________________________________________ "Old Fords Never Die, They Just Go Faster..." '67 F100 247. That's right, 247 =)(240 .060 over) '70 F250 Camper Special. 390 cid and Dana 60. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.flash.net/~bruce9 ________________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Don Haring
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 4:54 PM To: tffn quik.com
Cc: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com; oldeconolines egroups.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Vintage Tach questions Hello, I've been looking at 60s vintage tachometers (mainly on eBay) for both my Futura and Club Wagon. I know a little about what was available, and my first choice would be an electric unit that doesn't use a spearate sending unit/relay. My questions are: 1. Some of the tachs I've seen (SW, Sun, Dixco, etc) are listed as tachs for 8-cyl engines, but would these tachs work on 6-cyl engines? 2. What RPM range do I need (4000, 6000, 8000)? Would a 4000 RPM be too short of range? I guess the question should be -- what's a reasonable estimate of max RPM for both the small (170) and big (240/300) engines? If you can tell me more about what I should look for, let me know. I figured list members, in some cases, would be much more knowledgeable than some of the sellers of these items. I've bought a lot off eBay before, just need to learn more about electric tachometers. Thanks! -don Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director 61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Scott Sanders" <ssand77 hotmail.com>
Subject: E-Brake cable for '78 Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:15:35 PDT Thanks for all of the input on where to find the cable. I'll give LMC and NAPA a try. Hope one of them has it. Thanks! Scott Sanders '78 F-150 4x4 Custom SWB _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:18:50 -0700 From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman qwest.net>
Subject: 56 F100 in the Stable I just found and purchased a '56 F100 to add to my FOMOCO stable. Using a 78 F250 (FTE content) with a friend to go pick it up tomorrow morning. Have a Mustang II front clip and have other non-stock plans (which is very unlike me!). I'll chronicle progress on the restomod on my website (don't expect pictures for awhile). -- Tim Bowman Burien, WA tkbowman qwest.net
Website: www.users.qwest.net/~tkbowman (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more) ------------------------------ From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Trailer Special or not? Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 19:24:18 -0500 alright, I'll take a look when it's daylight about the other solenoid, too tired anyways(Internationals aren't built for comfort =P) ________________________________________________ "Old Fords Never Die, They Just Go Faster..." '67 F100 247. That's right, 247 =)(240 .060 over) '70 F250 Camper Special. 390 cid and Dana 60. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.flash.net/~bruce9 ________________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of
JUMPINFORD aol.com
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 11:14 AM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Trailer Special or not? In a message dated 10/27/00 5:42:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time, bruce9 flash.net writes:
<< Ok cool, yup it has those, it has both trays, but somebody took out the driver's side battery. I don't see any cables where I could hook up this other battery. Can anyone show me a picture or diagram and what wire to use so that I can get another battery hooked up? >> The negative just bolts to the firewall, the positive bolts to the output side of a solenoid that is on the driver side fenderwell, just under the master cylinder. Darrell & Tweety ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 20:29:05 EDT Subject: Re: 56 F100 in the Stable In a message dated 10/27/00 5:20:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, tkbowman qwest.net writes:
<< I just found and purchased a '56 F100 to add to my FOMOCO stable. Using a 78 F250 (FTE content) >> Ive seen this before, but doesnt the 56 F-100 qualify as the FTE content? :) Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 20:47:19 EDT Subject: Re: slop in dana 44 front If your talking about the wiper seals on the closed knuckle they are felt, and I had to make my own. It's been awhile but if I remember right the bearings are at the local parts store. There is a seal on the inside of the axle at the ring & pinion. If the bearing craps out it will end up in the tube. ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 21:01:58 EDT Subject: Re: 21 mpg 460? Thought Edelbrock was a Weber ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 21:09:14 EDT Subject: Re: Fw: [EBE] [Fwd: ford] Heard the same joke only it was Harley Davidson instead of Ford. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 18:40:34 -0700 (PDT) From: none <whidbeyslow yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wooden Carb Spacer Ben: here's my .02 cents worth on the wood spacer issue... > Natural wood tends to warp when exposed to extremes. Yes it does. What a bummer. > You do want to use wood, rather than plastics, for the insulating properties (and for the fact that plastics soften well below their actual melt point...) Wood does work very well for insulating against heat. But as stated before, it has to stand up to the constant temp changes as well as the fuel. My exp is that a lot of the glues used in the plywood don't hold up well to gasoline. I don't think that they get down into the engine much but they do break down which causes the plywood to fail. See below for sleeve tip. I also know that a lot of gas can/will swell the wood. If this happens then you've got a worse problem than a leaking spacer though... I am still looking for a cheaper alternative that is a plastic yet is still affordable AND will cut the mustard for use as an insulating spacer. I thought I'd found one but it was too hard and kept cracking. Dang. Let us know if you come up with something that works. > leaks? As for leaks, wood seems to work quite well when cinched down. Unfortunately, it also seems to always end up leaking air after a short while. I tried to go the gasket route and have had decent success. The easiest tips I have are: A. Use a good outdoor grade plywood. The finer the finish the better. Sand and seal as necessary. Go easy. B. Use a regular gasket with it on both sides but you'll still have to check it every so often. C. Experiment a little bit with the thickness of wood. I'd start with 3/8 except on a smaller engine. Then go with 1/4 to see if you get enough heat displacement. Go up in thickness as needed. D. Make sure your mating surfaces are true(no-brainer) E. If you are unsatisfied w/the amount of time before an air leak, use a router with a pattern to cut a thin groove into the plywood. Cut the gasket way down to fit. This helped me out enough to where I thought it was worth it. F. Only use the wood spacer when needed. I only use mine during the hot months of the year. Then I take it out. My truck is okay in cooler weather. G. DON'T USE LACQUER to seal the wood unless you let it fully cure first!!! A buddy of mine used lacquer and stuck it right on the intake the next day. When it started to leak and he tried to pull it off... You know what happened next. This is the reason I go with an outdoor grade plywood and no lacquer. I believe some lacquers will re-soften under heat and esp when they get gas splashed onto them. H. Don't overtighten. It won't help. My spacers last about a year at a shot of total time on the engine. This usually translates to 4 years which is pretty good I think. Then I just make a new one. Some guys probably would use them longer. It's up to you. The less fuel that gets on it, the longer it'll last. A couple of guys I know have had a plywood spacer on an engine for over ten years but I might add that those rigs don't exactly get mega miles per year either. I am currently conducting tests on a new spacer made of solid Micarta which... seems to be the more permanent solution. I'll get back to you on that one next year. Micarta is expensive but I've got a good supply for free. Let me know if you want a chunk. I'm also experimenting around with using stainless sleeves inside the bores on the spacer to keep the fuel off the plywood but am not sure if it'll be needed with the Micarta. > I do plan to keep a sharp eye on it anyway... Good plan! > The best part about this is that it was so easy to make... Ben Williams You're not kidding. Although some folks may say I went overboard on mine but I just hate air leaks :) Hope you find success! __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "Geo" <cabal micron.net>
Subject: Re: Pertonix Ignitor Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 20:10:06 -0600 Long time no hear, there Mr. White! 15 min to install after a week and a half to get The Hot Rod Shop to give me all the parts and then the right parts! George Beck '68 F-100 2X4 390 2V -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Jim & Becky White
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 9:52 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Pertonix Ignitor You need nothing else other than about 15 minutes to install it. I put one in my '65 about a year ago and couldn't be happier. Good luck with the truck. Jim 65 F100 / 300-6 Boise Idaho -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Kime
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 3:35 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Pertonix Ignitor I am thinking about adding the Pertonix Ignitor, but I have some questions about it first. Do you need to get anything else? Do you need to get an aftermarket control box? What would I gain if I did get a control box? Should I get a new coil? I already have new wires, cap, and rotor. Everything on the truck is stock. This spring I plan on upgrading to a 390, new intake, and a new carb. So, any advice would be great. Thanks! Matt 1974 F-250 4x4 Highboy _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "JOHN HELLDORFER" <john96mom worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Vintage Tach questions Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 19:38:06 -0700 DON, Do remember that some of the Old style tachs have a separate sending unit.(Non Mechanical) Many of the aftermarket tachs have a `switch` or setting to adjust for 4,6, or 8 cyl setup. >>>>Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:54:22 -0400 From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Vintage Tach questions Hello, I've been looking at 60s vintage tachometers (mainly on eBay) for both my Futura and Club Wagon. I know a little about what was available, and my first choice would be an electric unit that doesn't use a spearate sending unit/relay. My questions are: 1. Some of the tachs I've seen (SW, Sun, Dixco, etc) are listed as tachs for 8-cyl engines, but would these tachs work on 6-cyl engines? 2. What RPM range do I need (4000, 6000, 8000)? Would a 4000 RPM be too short of range? I guess the question should be -- what's a reasonable estimate of max RPM for both the small (170) and big (240/300) engines? If you can tell me more about what I should look for, let me know. I figured list members, in some cases, would be much more knowledgeable than some of the sellers of these items. I've bought a lot off eBay before, just need to learn more about electric tachometers. Thanks! -don Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director 61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters<<<<<< . __JOHN__Õ¿ö ICQ#6030753 My Web Sites>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://clubs.excite.com/comm/area/pw/welcome/main.asp?cid=188005&auth= http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2.html ------------------------------ From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Engine Paint Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 23:39:31 -0400 Well, I'm happy to say my 351M rebuild is now well under way- block and heads dropped at the machine shop today- placed the order for the master kit after he measured everything out. This is costing me way more than is warranted for the shape of the chassis and body, but it's still kinda fun. My rebuild will be pretty much stock, with the exception of going to 400 crank, cam, and pistons. Does anyone know the correct stock engine paint color for the 400 in 1977? The 351M was medium-dark blue (in the few places where paint could be seen). Bob Covington, VA '77 F-150 4x4, "The Project" ------------------------------ From: ASMEEKS aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 23:42:05 EDT Subject: NEW e-mail address Please change my e-mail address to asmeeks yahoo.com. The AOL address will
be no good after November 15, 2000. Thank you, Tony Meeks ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: carb spacers Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 22:55:22 -0500 If you are not on a really strict budget, try www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com . They both sell a variety of carb spacers. Plastic, wood, pheonelic, etc. The one I got from Summit looks like it's made of a material similar to cardboard. They even sell ones made of wood for you guys interested in that. Mine works great, it is about 1/2 an inch thick- cured the fuel percolation problems I was having without it. They are not all that expensive and they will probably last longer than a homemade one. Just a thought. I know it's fun to make your own stuff and save money, but here I think a premade spacer may be the better choice. ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ------------------------------ From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: Wooden Carb Spacer Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 22:29:09 -0600 Why not just use an Edlebrock wooden spacer? I know they have them and they are a bit pricey but you would be money ahead if your time and trouble count for anything. I would hope that the folks at Edlebrock R&D have already tackled all the questions and variables that you have raised. Rich Larsen ----- Original Message ----- From: none <whidbeyslow yahoo.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 7:40 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Wooden Carb Spacer > Ben: > > here's my .02 cents worth on the wood spacer issue... > > > Natural wood tends to warp when exposed to > extremes. > > Yes it does. What a bummer. > > > You do want to use wood, rather than plastics, for > the insulating properties (and for the fact that > plastics soften well below their actual melt > point...) > > Wood does work very well for insulating against > heat. But as stated before, it has to stand up to the > constant temp changes as well as the fuel. My exp is > that a lot of the glues used in the plywood don't > hold up well to gasoline. I don't think that they get > down into the engine much but they do break down which > causes the plywood to fail. See below for sleeve tip. > I also know that a lot of gas can/will swell the wood. > If this happens then you've got a worse problem than a > leaking spacer though... > > I am still looking for a cheaper alternative that is > a plastic yet is still affordable AND will cut the > mustard for use as an insulating spacer. I thought I'd > found one but it was too hard and kept cracking. Dang. > Let us know if you come up with something that works. > > > leaks? > > As for leaks, wood seems to work quite well when > cinched down. Unfortunately, it also seems to always > end up leaking air after a short while. I tried to go > the gasket route and have had decent success. The > easiest tips I have are: > > A. Use a good outdoor grade plywood. The finer the > finish the better. Sand and seal as necessary. Go > easy. > B. Use a regular gasket with it on both sides but > you'll still have to check it every so often. > C. Experiment a little bit with the thickness of > wood. I'd start with 3/8 except on a smaller engine. > Then go with 1/4 to see if you get enough heat > displacement. Go up in thickness as needed. > D. Make sure your mating surfaces are true(no-brainer) > E. If you are unsatisfied w/the amount of time before > an air leak, use a router with a pattern to cut a thin > groove into the plywood. Cut the gasket way down to > fit. This helped me out enough to where I thought it > was worth it. > F. Only use the wood spacer when needed. I only use > mine during the hot months of the year. Then I take it > out. My truck is okay in cooler weather. > G. DON'T USE LACQUER to seal the wood unless you let > it fully cure first!!! A buddy of mine used lacquer > and stuck it right on the intake the next day. When it > started to leak and he tried to pull it off... You > know > what happened next. This is the reason I go with an > outdoor grade plywood and no lacquer. I believe some > lacquers will re-soften under heat and esp when they > get gas splashed onto them. > H. Don't overtighten. It won't help. ------------------------------ From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Paint Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 22:35:10 -0600 I think you would be safe sticking with the Ford Medium Blue. The older Ford Blue is much lighter but you have to go back quite a ways to need that. My '62 is actually Ford Red which looks way too much like G* colors especially with that rear mounted distributor. Yuck! Rich Larsen >Does anyone know the correct stock engine paint > color for the 400 in 1977? The 351M was medium-dark blue (in the few places > where paint could be seen). ------------------------------ From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Fw: lmb need coil seats and retainers for 78-79 Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 22:26:44 -0700 ----- Original Message ----- From: <Rol231 cs.com>
To: <lmb bronco.com>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 9:58 PM Subject: lmb need coil seats and retainers for 78-79 > Hello. I posted this to the other Bronco list, so for those of you who are > subscribed to both and have read this already, I apologize. I am in > desperate need of the lower coil spring seats and retaining plates for the > 78-79 Broncos/F150s with the c-bushing setup. If you can help thanks. If > not, thanks for reading. > > Roland > ====== > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bronco.com/lmb > ------------------------------ From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Paint Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 07:16:31 -0400 <Well, I'm happy to say my 351M rebuild is now well <under way- block and <heads dropped at the machine shop today- placed the <order for the master kit <after he measured everything out. This is costing me <way more than is <warranted for the shape of the chassis and body, but it's <still kinda fun. Well Bob your not alone, My '77 4X4 is anything but a trailer queen and has had far to much spent on it. Would I trade it for anything else.........never. The more I tinker with it is the more I enjoy it. Look at the bright side, when your truck cost half of what a mortgage does you would be too afraid to do half of what your truck can. John '77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's ------------------------------ From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: carb spacers Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 07:24:19 -0400 <If you are not on a really strict budget, try www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com . They <both sell a variety of carb spacers. Plastic, wood, pheonelic, etc. The one I got from Summit <looks like it's made of a material similar to cardboard. They even sell ones made of wood for <you guys interested in that. Mine works great, it is about 1/2 an inch thick- cured the fuel <percolation problems I was having without it. They are not all that expensive and they will <probably last longer than a homemade one. I would have to agree with Garrett on this, I installed a laminated canvas 1" four hole spacer between a Edelbrock 750 and Performer manifold. I lost no bottom end and it cleaned up the mid-range and top end. No leakage and its been through two years of weather and my usual motor abuse. Save yourself some time with the pre-made, there's probably lots of other things to tinker with. John '77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Wooden Carb Spacer Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 09:20:33 -0700 Micarta is good for this application and in fact was made for similar applications in industry. It is basically laminated canvas with resins designed for different purposes. There are chemical resistant, moisture resistant, expansion controlled etc.. Most micarta will work well in a carb spacer application and they do have the desired effect of insulating the carb from the manifold. In my opinion this is the best material to use for this, better than wood, better than plastic. Be carefull about over tightening a carb base to get a good seal. You can distort the body so that you have problems with the throttle sticking among other things and you can actually break the ears off. (don't ask how I know all this neat stuff :-)) Anyone ever see a micarta base for a Ford Spread bore? (I don't expect any positive feed back on this one :-)) Happily Totally Retired, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > I am still looking for a cheaper alternative that is > a plastic yet is still affordable AND will cut the > mustard for use as an insulating spacer. I thought I'd > > I am currently conducting tests on a new spacer made > of solid Micarta which... seems to be the more > permanent solution. ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Edlebroc? Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 09:31:37 -0700 Edlebroc is a copy of the Carter AFB with a few minor modifications, made by Weber for Edlebrock. Happily Totally Retired, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > Thought Edelbrock was a Weber ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 08:23:15 -0700 From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: slop in dana 44 front The knuckle seals are still available. The large 8" knuckle seals have a ford counterpart but for the 6" they will come up not available most of the time. The seals on the early jeeps are the exact same size. Dana used the same dia. knuckle on almost all their front ends. Most if not all the the bearing fragments stay in the knuckle if there is a heavy grease in there but they can work their way almost everywhere if left for too long. laters -- Don Grossman duckdon mac.com
------------------------------ From: "Scott Jensen" <sjensensr worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 69 F100 4x4 Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 08:09:53 -0700 I know this is kind of a late post for the thread..been busy..:) That single speed transfer case in your F100 is a Spicer 21. It ONLY came in F100's, so it's kind of a rare part. If you find another one during the salvage yard adventures, buy it. On the up-side, the rebuild kits for the 21 are only about half the cost over the 20's. Scott 76 F100 4x4 ------------------------------ From: "Mike Mackie" <bigred connect.ab.ca>
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 12:27:17 -0600 Subject: Camper specials Hey Eric, those options- extra tool compartment, gas tanks, etc- were all available separately as well as in the camper special package. If there is no sign of camper special emblems the original owner may just have equipped the basic truck with his own wish list. The power disc brakes were also available on 250's. For your dual batteries, if you can't find the original hookups, try your local RV or autoparts store for a battery isolater kit. ------------------------------ From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Camper specials Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 13:41:13 -0500 It has Camper Special emblems on it( on the sides on that section of metal where air is routed into between the windshield and hood. It also has the power disc brakes. Ok, thanks for the tip. -----Original Message----- From: bigred connect.ab.ca [mailto:bigred connect.ab.ca]
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2000 1:27 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com; Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server;
61-79-list ford-trucks.com; darthvader mail6.e-hot-deals.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Camper specials Hey Eric, those options- extra tool compartment, gas tanks, etc- were all available separately as well as in the camper special package. If there is no sign of camper special emblems the original owner may just have equipped the basic truck with his own wish list. The power disc brakes were also available on 250's. For your dual batteries, if you can't find the original hookups, try your local RV or autoparts store for a battery isolater kit. ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Montana Mark" <big78ford home.com>
Subject: Frankenstein F150 Double Cab!: Was cab and box swap Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 13:10:00 -0600 Hi all, The twisted double cab idea caught my attention. There is a 72ish ch#vy truck in town that has had this done to it. It looks really weird driving down the street. They made it a mirror image(grill, front fenders, cab, cab, front fenders, grill) and replaced the rear "headlights" with red ones for brakelights. At least they didn't ruin a Ford with this creation! If anyone wants to see a pic of this, I'll try to get some next time I see it. Montana Mark 1978 Ford F150 4x4 "The Great Pumpkin" http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.members.home.net/big78ford > The disposal of the cab was even more amusing...we lashed it back to back > with the cab on another truck that didn't have a box. Good thing neither > one of us owns a welder and cutting torch - we were starting to become > somewhat serious in our considerations of creating some twisted > Frankenstein F150 Double Cab! :-) ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 15:21:57 EDT Subject: Re: Frankenstein F150 Double Cab!: Was cab and box swap In a message dated 10/28/00 12:13:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, big78ford home.com writes:
<< The twisted double cab idea caught my attention. There is a 72ish ch#vy truck in town that has had this done to it. It looks really weird driving down the street. They made it a mirror image(grill, front fenders, cab, cab, front fenders, grill) and replaced the rear "headlights" with red ones for brakelights. At least they didn't ruin a Ford with this creation! If anyone wants to see a pic of this, I'll try to get some next time I see it. >> Theres a 75 Chevy here in Vegas done just like that. Its on a 2wd chassis. .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.
Advertising -
Terms of Use - Privacy Policy -
Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company. 
|