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Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 14:27:13 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Fri, 27 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 315

In This Issue:
Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter
Re: Vintage Tach questions
E-Brake cable for '78
56 F100 in the Stable
Re: Trailer Special or not?
Re: 56 F100 in the Stable
Re: slop in dana 44 front
Re: 21 mpg 460?
Re: Fw: [EBE] [Fwd: ford]
Re: Wooden Carb Spacer
Re: Pertonix Ignitor
Re: Vintage Tach questions
Engine Paint
NEW e-mail address
carb spacers
Re: Wooden Carb Spacer
Re: Engine Paint
Fw: lmb need coil seats and retainers for 78-79
Re: Engine Paint
Re: carb spacers
Re: Wooden Carb Spacer
Re: Edlebroc?
Re: slop in dana 44 front
Re: 69 F100 4x4
Camper specials
Re: Camper specials
Frankenstein F150 Double Cab!:  Was cab and box swap
Re: Frankenstein F150 Double Cab!:  Was cab and box swap

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: north40 verinet.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:33:05 -0600
Subject: Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter

Here's a coouple of things that might make you thinkabout using dogwood,
unless there's a real good reason not to:

I had a great uncle who told us stories of driving trucks through
Pennsylvania in the 20's.  He'd occasionally have to stop a trip to
"make" some new brake shoes for these old 'T's and such he was driving.
He said he'd use dogwood as it stood up to the heat of braking.  This
guy was a character,ended up as a township fire chief until he retired
and could do all that stuff that you see all the old guys two or three
generations ahead of you do.

Later, as I was going through a couple of chains cutting down a dogwood
in a retired guy's backyard, he told me of logging in 'the old days'
(probably the same time my great uncle was driving, by the looks of him)
and that they'd begin a new lot by making wedges out of dogwoods to use
to fell the larger oaks, maples and elms.  I cut a few wedges out of
what we cut down and used 'em until some idiot threw them out of the
tool box a year later.

I dunno, sounds like a candidate for material anyway.

Harry Vermillion


------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Vintage Tach questions
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 19:13:58 -0500

My SunPro tach goes to 8k, and on the back of it is a little switch that you
use to switch between 4,6, and 8 cylinder. Yeah, I don't think I'm going to
be seeing 8k with my stock 240 =P. Only been near 6k with it and that was
screaming!
________________________________________________
"Old Fords Never Die, They Just Go Faster..."
'67 F100 247. That's right, 247 =)(240 .060 over)
'70 F250 Camper Special. 390 cid and Dana 60.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.flash.net/~bruce9
________________________________________________


-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Don Haring
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 4:54 PM
To: tffn quik.com
Cc: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com; oldeconolines egroups.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Vintage Tach questions


Hello,
I've been looking at 60s vintage tachometers (mainly on eBay) for both my
Futura and Club Wagon. I know a little about what was available, and my
first choice would be an electric unit that doesn't use a spearate sending
unit/relay.

My questions are:
1. Some of the tachs I've seen (SW, Sun, Dixco, etc) are listed as tachs
for 8-cyl engines, but would these tachs work on 6-cyl engines?
2. What RPM range do I need (4000, 6000, 8000)? Would a 4000 RPM be too
short of range? I guess the question should be -- what's a reasonable
estimate of max RPM for both the small (170) and big (240/300) engines?

If you can tell me more about what I should look for, let me know. I
figured list members, in some cases, would be much more knowledgeable than
some of the sellers of these items. I've bought a lot off eBay before, just
need to learn more about electric tachometers.

Thanks!
-don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters


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------------------------------

From: "Scott Sanders" <ssand77 hotmail.com>
Subject: E-Brake cable for '78
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:15:35 PDT

Thanks for all of the input on where to find the cable.  I'll give LMC and
NAPA a try.  Hope one of them has it.

Thanks!
Scott Sanders
'78 F-150 4x4 Custom SWB
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:18:50 -0700
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman qwest.net>
Subject: 56 F100 in the Stable

I just found and purchased a '56 F100 to add to my FOMOCO stable.  Using
a 78 F250 (FTE content) with a friend to go pick it up tomorrow
morning.  Have a Mustang II front clip and have other non-stock plans
(which is very unlike me!).

I'll chronicle progress on the restomod on my website (don't expect
pictures for awhile).
--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman qwest.net
Website: www.users.qwest.net/~tkbowman
  (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)

------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Trailer Special or not?
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 19:24:18 -0500

alright, I'll take a look when it's daylight about the other solenoid, too
tired anyways(Internationals aren't built for comfort =P)
________________________________________________
"Old Fords Never Die, They Just Go Faster..."
'67 F100 247. That's right, 247 =)(240 .060 over)
'70 F250 Camper Special. 390 cid and Dana 60.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.flash.net/~bruce9
________________________________________________

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of
JUMPINFORD aol.com
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 11:14 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Trailer Special or not?


In a message dated 10/27/00 5:42:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bruce9 flash.net writes:

<< Ok cool, yup it has those, it has both trays, but somebody took out the
driver's side battery. I don't see any cables where I could hook up this
other battery. Can anyone show me a picture or diagram and what wire to use
so that I can get another battery hooked up? >>

The negative just bolts to the firewall, the positive bolts to the output
side of a solenoid that is on the driver side fenderwell, just under the
master cylinder.

Darrell & Tweety
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------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 20:29:05 EDT
Subject: Re: 56 F100 in the Stable

In a message dated 10/27/00 5:20:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tkbowman qwest.net writes:

<< I just found and purchased a '56 F100 to add to my FOMOCO stable.  Using
a 78 F250 (FTE content)  >>

Ive seen this before, but doesnt the 56 F-100 qualify as the FTE content?  :)


Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 20:47:19 EDT
Subject: Re: slop in dana 44 front

If your talking about the wiper seals on the closed knuckle they are felt,
and I had to make my own.  It's been awhile but if I remember right the
bearings are at the local parts store.  There is a seal on the inside of the
axle at the ring & pinion.  If the bearing craps out it will end up in the
tube.

------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 21:01:58 EDT
Subject: Re: 21 mpg 460?

Thought Edelbrock was a Weber

------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 21:09:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: [EBE] [Fwd: ford]

Heard the same joke only it was Harley Davidson instead of Ford.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 18:40:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: none <whidbeyslow yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wooden Carb Spacer

 Ben:

here's my .02 cents worth on the wood spacer issue...

> Natural wood tends to warp when exposed to
extremes.

 Yes it does. What a bummer.

> You do want to use wood, rather than plastics, for
the insulating properties (and for the fact that
plastics soften well below their actual melt
point...)

Wood does work very well for insulating against
heat. But as stated before, it has to stand up to the
constant temp changes as well as the fuel. My exp is
that a lot of the glues used in the plywood don't
hold up well to gasoline. I don't think that they get
down into the engine much but they do break down which
causes the plywood to fail. See below for sleeve tip.
I also know that a lot of gas can/will swell the wood.
If this happens then you've got a worse problem than a
leaking spacer though...

I am still looking for a cheaper alternative that is
a plastic yet is still affordable AND will cut the
mustard for use as an insulating spacer. I thought I'd
found one but it was too hard and kept cracking. Dang.
Let us know if you come up with something that works.

> leaks?

As for leaks, wood seems to work quite well when
cinched down. Unfortunately, it also seems to always
end up leaking air after a short while. I tried to go
the gasket route and have had decent success. The
easiest tips I have are:

A. Use a good outdoor grade plywood. The finer the
finish the better. Sand and seal as necessary. Go
easy.
B. Use a regular gasket with it on both sides but
you'll still have to check it every so often.
C. Experiment a little bit with the thickness of
wood. I'd start with 3/8 except on a smaller engine.
Then go with 1/4 to see if you get enough heat
displacement. Go up in thickness as needed.
D. Make sure your mating surfaces are true(no-brainer)
E. If you are unsatisfied w/the amount of time before
an air leak, use a router with a pattern to cut a thin
groove into the plywood. Cut the gasket way down to
fit. This helped me out enough to where I thought it
was worth it.
F. Only use the wood spacer when needed. I only use
mine during the hot months of the year. Then I take it
out. My truck is okay in cooler weather.
G. DON'T USE LACQUER to seal the wood unless you let
it fully cure first!!! A buddy of mine used lacquer
and stuck it right on the intake the next day. When it
started to leak and he tried to pull it off... You
know
what happened next. This is the reason I go with an
outdoor grade plywood and no lacquer. I believe some
lacquers will re-soften under heat and esp when they
get gas splashed onto them.
H. Don't overtighten. It won't help.

My spacers last about a year at a shot of total time
on the engine. This usually translates to 4 years
which is pretty good I think. Then I just make a new
one. Some guys probably would use them longer. It's up
to you. The less fuel that gets on it, the longer
it'll last. A couple of guys I know have had a plywood
spacer on an engine for over ten years but I might add
that those rigs don't exactly get mega miles per year
either.

I am currently conducting tests on a new spacer made
of solid Micarta which...  seems to be the more
permanent solution. I'll get back to you on that one
next year. Micarta is expensive but I've got a good
supply for free. Let me know if you want a chunk. I'm
also experimenting around with using stainless sleeves
inside the bores on the spacer to keep the fuel off
the plywood but am not sure if it'll be needed with
the Micarta.

> I do plan to keep a sharp eye on it anyway...

Good plan!

> The best part about this is that it was so easy to
make...   Ben Williams

You're not kidding. Although some folks may say I
went overboard on mine but I just hate air leaks :)
                               Hope you find success!


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf!  It's FREE.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "Geo" <cabal micron.net>
Subject: Re: Pertonix Ignitor
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 20:10:06 -0600

Long time no hear, there Mr. White!  15 min to install after a week and a
half to get The Hot Rod Shop to give me all the parts and then the right
parts!

George Beck
'68 F-100 2X4 390 2V

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Jim & Becky White
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 9:52 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Pertonix Ignitor

You need nothing else other than about 15 minutes to install it.  I put one
in my '65 about a year ago and couldn't be happier.  Good luck with the
truck.


Jim
65 F100 / 300-6
Boise Idaho

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Kime
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 3:35 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Pertonix Ignitor


I am thinking about adding the Pertonix Ignitor, but I have some questions
about it first.  Do you need to get anything else?  Do you need to get an
aftermarket control box?  What would I gain if I did get a control box?
Should I get a new coil?  I already have new wires, cap, and rotor.

Everything on the truck is stock.  This spring I plan on upgrading to a 390,
new intake, and a new carb.  So, any advice would be great.

Thanks!

Matt
1974 F-250 4x4 Highboy
_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: "JOHN    HELLDORFER" <john96mom worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Vintage Tach questions
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 19:38:06 -0700

DON,

Do remember that some of the Old style tachs have a separate sending
unit.(Non Mechanical)

Many of the aftermarket tachs have a `switch` or setting to adjust for 4,6,
or 8 cyl setup.





>>>>Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:54:22 -0400
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Vintage Tach questions

Hello,
I've been looking at 60s vintage tachometers (mainly on eBay) for both my
Futura and Club Wagon. I know a little about what was available, and my
first choice would be an electric unit that doesn't use a spearate sending
unit/relay.

My questions are:
1. Some of the tachs I've seen (SW, Sun, Dixco, etc) are listed as tachs
for 8-cyl engines, but would these tachs work on 6-cyl engines?
2. What RPM range do I need (4000, 6000, 8000)? Would a 4000 RPM be too
short of range? I guess the question should be -- what's a reasonable
estimate of max RPM for both the small (170) and big (240/300) engines?

If you can tell me more about what I should look for, let me know. I
figured list members, in some cases, would be much more knowledgeable than
some of the sellers of these items. I've bought a lot off eBay before, just
need to learn more about electric tachometers.

Thanks!
-don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters<<<<<<


.
__JOHN__տ
ICQ#6030753
My Web Sites>>
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://clubs.excite.com/comm/area/pw/welcome/main.asp?cid=188005&auth=
http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2.html



------------------------------

From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Engine Paint
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 23:39:31 -0400

Well, I'm happy to say my 351M rebuild is now well under way- block and
heads dropped at the machine shop today- placed the order for the master kit
after he measured everything out.  This is costing me way more than is
warranted for the shape of the chassis and body, but it's still kinda fun.

My rebuild will be pretty much stock, with the exception of going to 400
crank, cam, and pistons.  Does anyone know the correct stock engine paint
color for the 400 in 1977?  The 351M was medium-dark blue (in the few places
where paint could be seen).

Bob
Covington, VA
'77 F-150 4x4, "The Project"


------------------------------

From: ASMEEKS aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 23:42:05 EDT
Subject: NEW e-mail address

Please change my e-mail address to  asmeeks yahoo.com.  The AOL address will
be no good after November 15, 2000.

Thank you,
Tony Meeks

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: carb spacers
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 22:55:22 -0500


If you are not on a really strict budget, try www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com . They both sell a variety of carb spacers. Plastic, wood, pheonelic, etc. The one I got from Summit looks like it's made of a material similar to cardboard. They even sell ones made of wood for you guys interested in that. Mine works great, it is about 1/2 an inch thick- cured the fuel percolation problems I was having without it. They are not all that expensive and they will probably last longer than a homemade one.

Just a thought. I know it's fun to make your own stuff and save money, but here I think a premade spacer may be the better choice.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: Wooden Carb Spacer
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 22:29:09 -0600

Why not just use an Edlebrock wooden spacer?  I know they have them and they
are a bit pricey but you would be money ahead if your time and trouble count
for anything.  I would hope that the folks at Edlebrock R&D have already
tackled all the questions and variables that you have raised.

Rich Larsen


----- Original Message -----
From: none <whidbeyslow yahoo.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 7:40 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Wooden Carb Spacer


>   Ben:
>
> here's my .02 cents worth on the wood spacer issue...
>
> > Natural wood tends to warp when exposed to
> extremes.
>
>   Yes it does. What a bummer.
>
> > You do want to use wood, rather than plastics, for
> the insulating properties (and for the fact that
> plastics soften well below their actual melt
> point...)
>
>  Wood does work very well for insulating against
> heat. But as stated before, it has to stand up to the
> constant temp changes as well as the fuel. My exp is
> that a lot of the glues used in the plywood don't
> hold up well to gasoline. I don't think that they get
> down into the engine much but they do break down which
> causes the plywood to fail. See below for sleeve tip.
> I also know that a lot of gas can/will swell the wood.
> If this happens then you've got a worse problem than a
> leaking spacer though...
>
>  I am still looking for a cheaper alternative that is
> a plastic yet is still affordable AND will cut the
> mustard for use as an insulating spacer. I thought I'd
> found one but it was too hard and kept cracking. Dang.
> Let us know if you come up with something that works.
>
> > leaks?
>
>  As for leaks, wood seems to work quite well when
> cinched down. Unfortunately, it also seems to always
> end up leaking air after a short while. I tried to go
> the gasket route and have had decent success. The
> easiest tips I have are:
>
> A. Use a good outdoor grade plywood. The finer the
> finish the better. Sand and seal as necessary. Go
> easy.
> B. Use a regular gasket with it on both sides but
> you'll still have to check it every so often.
> C. Experiment a little bit with the thickness of
> wood. I'd start with 3/8 except on a smaller engine.
> Then go with 1/4 to see if you get enough heat
> displacement. Go up in thickness as needed.
> D. Make sure your mating surfaces are true(no-brainer)
> E. If you are unsatisfied w/the amount of time before
> an air leak, use a router with a pattern to cut a thin
> groove into the plywood. Cut the gasket way down to
> fit. This helped me out enough to where I thought it
> was worth it.
> F. Only use the wood spacer when needed. I only use
> mine during the hot months of the year. Then I take it
> out. My truck is okay in cooler weather.
> G. DON'T USE LACQUER to seal the wood unless you let
> it fully cure first!!! A buddy of mine used lacquer
> and stuck it right on the intake the next day. When it
> started to leak and he tried to pull it off... You
> know
> what happened next. This is the reason I go with an
> outdoor grade plywood and no lacquer. I believe some
> lacquers will re-soften under heat and esp when they
> get gas splashed onto them.
> H. Don't overtighten. It won't help.



------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Paint
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 22:35:10 -0600

I think you would be safe sticking with the Ford Medium Blue.  The older
Ford Blue is much lighter but you have to go back quite a ways to need that.
My '62 is actually Ford Red which looks way too much like G* colors
especially with that rear mounted distributor.  Yuck!

Rich Larsen


>Does anyone know the correct stock engine paint
> color for the 400 in 1977?  The 351M was medium-dark blue (in the few
places
> where paint could be seen).



------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Fw: lmb need coil seats and retainers for 78-79
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 22:26:44 -0700


----- Original Message -----
From: <Rol231 cs.com>
To: <lmb bronco.com>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 9:58 PM
Subject: lmb need coil seats and retainers for 78-79


> Hello.  I posted this to the other Bronco list, so for those of you who
are
> subscribed to both and have read this already, I apologize.  I am in
> desperate need of the lower coil spring seats and retaining plates for the
> 78-79 Broncos/F150s with the c-bushing setup.  If you can help thanks.  If
> not, thanks for reading.
>
> Roland
> ======
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bronco.com/lmb
>


------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Paint
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 07:16:31 -0400

<Well, I'm happy to say my 351M rebuild is now well <under way- block and
<heads dropped at the machine shop today- placed the <order for the master
kit
<after he measured everything out.  This is costing me <way more than is
<warranted for the shape of the chassis and body, but it's <still kinda fun.

Well Bob your not alone, My '77 4X4 is anything but a trailer queen and has
had far to much spent on it. Would I trade it for anything
else.........never. The more I tinker with it is the more I enjoy it. Look
at the bright side, when your truck cost half of what a mortgage does you
would be too afraid to do half of what your truck can.

John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: carb spacers
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 07:24:19 -0400

<If you are not on a really strict budget, try www.summitracing.com or
www.jegs.com . They <both sell a variety of carb spacers. Plastic, wood,
pheonelic, etc. The one I got from Summit <looks like it's made of a
material similar to cardboard. They even sell ones made of wood for <you
guys interested in that. Mine works great, it is about 1/2 an inch thick-
cured the fuel <percolation problems I was having without it. They are not
all that expensive and they will <probably last longer than a homemade one.

I would have to agree with Garrett on this, I installed a laminated canvas
1" four hole spacer between a Edelbrock 750 and Performer manifold. I lost
no bottom end and it cleaned up the mid-range and top end. No leakage and
its been through two years of weather and my usual motor abuse. Save
yourself some time with the pre-made, there's probably lots of other things
to tinker with.

John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Wooden Carb Spacer
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 09:20:33 -0700

Micarta is good for this application and in fact was made for similar
applications in industry.  It is basically laminated canvas with resins
designed for different purposes.   There are chemical resistant,  moisture
resistant, expansion controlled etc..

Most micarta will work well in a carb spacer application and they do have
the desired effect of insulating the carb from the manifold.  In my opinion
this is the best material to use for this, better than wood, better than
plastic.

Be carefull about over tightening a carb base to get a good seal.  You can
distort the body so that you have problems with the throttle sticking among
other things and you can actually break the ears off.  (don't ask how I know
all this neat stuff  :-))

Anyone ever see a micarta base for a Ford Spread bore? (I don't expect any
positive feed back on this one :-))

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

>  I am still looking for a cheaper alternative that is
> a plastic yet is still affordable AND will cut the
> mustard for use as an insulating spacer. I thought I'd
>
>  I am currently conducting tests on a new spacer made
> of solid Micarta which...  seems to be the more
> permanent solution.


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Edlebroc?
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 09:31:37 -0700

Edlebroc is a copy of the Carter AFB with a few minor modifications, made by
Weber for Edlebrock.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Thought Edelbrock was a Weber



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 08:23:15 -0700
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: slop in dana 44 front


The knuckle seals are still available.  The large 8" knuckle seals
have a ford counterpart but for the 6" they will come up not
available most of the time.  The seals on the early jeeps are the
exact same size.  Dana used the same dia. knuckle on almost all their
front ends.

Most if not all the the bearing fragments stay in the knuckle if
there is a heavy grease in there but they can work their way almost
everywhere if left for too long.

laters
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

From: "Scott Jensen" <sjensensr worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 69 F100 4x4
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 08:09:53 -0700


I know this is kind of a late post for the thread..been busy..:)
That single speed transfer case in your F100 is a Spicer 21. It ONLY came in F100's, so it's kind of a rare part. If you find another one during the salvage yard adventures, buy it. On the up-side, the rebuild kits for the 21 are only about half the cost over the 20's.

Scott
76 F100 4x4


------------------------------

From: "Mike Mackie" <bigred connect.ab.ca>
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 12:27:17 -0600
Subject: Camper specials

Hey Eric, those options- extra tool compartment, gas tanks, etc- were all available
separately as well as in the camper special package. If there is no sign of
camper special emblems the original owner may just have equipped the basic truck
with his own wish list. The power disc brakes were also available on 250's.
For your dual batteries, if you can't find the original hookups, try your local
RV or autoparts store for a battery isolater kit.

------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Camper specials
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 13:41:13 -0500

It has Camper Special emblems on it( on the sides on that section of metal
where air is routed into between the windshield and hood. It also has the
power disc brakes. Ok, thanks for the tip.

-----Original Message-----
From: bigred connect.ab.ca [mailto:bigred connect.ab.ca]
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2000 1:27 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com; Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server;
61-79-list ford-trucks.com; darthvader mail6.e-hot-deals.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Camper specials


Hey Eric, those options- extra tool compartment, gas tanks, etc- were all
available
separately as well as in the camper special package. If there is no sign of
camper special emblems the original owner may just have equipped the basic
truck
with his own wish list. The power disc brakes were also available on 250's.
For your dual batteries, if you can't find the original hookups, try your
local
RV or autoparts store for a battery isolater kit.
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "Montana Mark" <big78ford home.com>
Subject: Frankenstein F150 Double Cab!:  Was cab and box swap
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 13:10:00 -0600

Hi all,
The twisted double cab idea caught my attention.  There is a 72ish ch#vy
truck in town that has had this done to it.  It looks really weird driving
down the street.  They made it a mirror image(grill, front fenders, cab,
cab, front fenders, grill) and replaced the rear "headlights" with red ones
for brakelights.  At least they didn't ruin a Ford with this creation!  If
anyone wants to see a pic of this, I'll try to get some next time I see it.

Montana Mark
1978 Ford F150 4x4  "The Great Pumpkin"
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.members.home.net/big78ford

> The disposal of the cab was even more amusing...we lashed it back to back
> with the cab on another truck that didn't have a box. Good thing neither
> one of us owns a welder and cutting torch - we were starting to become
> somewhat serious in our considerations of creating some twisted
> Frankenstein F150 Double Cab!   :-)



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 15:21:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Frankenstein F150 Double Cab!:  Was cab and box swap

In a message dated 10/28/00 12:13:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
big78ford home.com writes:

<< The twisted double cab idea caught my attention.  There is a 72ish ch#vy
truck in town that has had this done to it.  It looks really weird driving
down the street.  They made it a mirror image(grill, front fenders, cab,
cab, front fenders, grill) and replaced the rear "headlights" with red ones
for brakelights.  At least they didn't ruin a Ford with this creation!  If
anyone wants to see a pic of this, I'll try to get some next time I see it.
>>

Theres a 75 Chevy here in Vegas done just like that.  Its on a 2wd chassis. ....


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