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Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 18:19:42 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Thu, 26 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 314

In This Issue:
Cam Timing
Trailer Special or not?
Degreeed M
Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter
OD's and rear gears
Re: Cam Timing
Earlier timing sets
Re: Trailer Special or not?
FMX OD
Timing
Re: Degreeed M
Re: Cam Timing
Re: Trailer Special or not?
Re: Cam Timing
Re: Closed Knuckle Slack
Re: Timing
slop in closed knuckle dana 44 front
Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter
Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter
Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter
Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter
Re: Pertonix Ignitor
Re: Trailer Special or not?
Re: Pertonix Ignitor
Re: OD's and rear gears
Tin - Zinc plating kit
Re: Trailer Special or not?
Re: leak from rear end and other cool mistakes.....
Re: 21 mpg 460?
Re: E Brake cable
switching services
Vintage Tach questions
Re: Vintage Tach questions
Re: Vintage Tach questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Cam Timing
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 19:12:23 -0600

I have been reading with interest the posts about M Block Timing which
stirred up a question that I have had for some time. Recently I replaced the
original timing set in my '68 429 with a double roller that came with slots
for a 2 degree advance or retard.  I installed it at the stack stetting (0
advance) but have been wondering what purpose or advantage there would be to
changing this timing.  Any educational help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Rich


------------------------------

From: "Brian Johns" <brjohns21 netzero.net>
Subject: Trailer Special or not?
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 18:08:28 -0700


I am looking at a '76 F150 extended cab to buy.  The owner says it's a
trailer special and pointed out where the emblem use to be on the tailgate.
It has a 390 and auto transmission (guessing a C6).  I'm wondering, what is
different about a trailer special and how do you verify it is one.

Thanks,
Brian



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Degreeed M
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:16:17 -0500


John writes:  >>The degree setting would be determined with where the timing marks
are stamped on the gears, mainly the cam gear.<<

I thought it was done with the keyway(on the cam gear) being offset in
one direction or the other...


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 19:25:59 -0600

I wonder if the glues used in furniture grade plywood are going to
> > > have trouble standing up to the gasoline exposure.
>
> Why not use a solid block of oak or any hardwood? Then there'd be no worry
about
> the glue.

I would be afraid that solid wood would crack with the heat and cooling and
varying moisture condition.  Plywood with its glues and alternating grain is
much tougher.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: OD's and rear gears
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:22:40 -0500


Wish writes:  >>When they designed new
transmissions, they should've designed more lower gears rather than an overdrive
and utilized a steeper rear gear to keep the same overall ratios."   Which is
much more difficult to argue from our side since we weren't involved in the
design process ...<<

Me too..  But doesn't it make sense that a 1:1 final driven tranny and a 2.75 rear
would be more efficient than a 4.11:1 rear and a .69 OD???  One less set of
gears to pull...Yes???   No???  ???  Overall final drive is still the same(relatively)..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Cam Timing
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 18:31:29 -0700

From everything that I've been told all changing the cam timing basically
does is move the torque curve up or down the RPM range.

/// Smith & Wesson...the Original point & click interface \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 6:12 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Cam Timing


> I have been reading with interest the posts about M Block Timing which
> stirred up a question that I have had for some time. Recently I replaced
the
> original timing set in my '68 429 with a double roller that came with
slots
> for a 2 degree advance or retard.  I installed it at the stack stetting (0
> advance) but have been wondering what purpose or advantage there would be
to
> changing this timing.  Any educational help would be appreciated.
>




------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Earlier timing sets
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:25:28 -0500


Ken S. writes"  >>
In other words, what other engines besides the M series will benefit from an
early model timing set?<<

The 385 series(429/460) I believe benefits by buying timing sets for the pre
'71's...


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Trailer Special or not?
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:40:14 -0500

I have no idea, but I have a '70 F250 and would like to verify that it's a
Camper Special. I'm assuming so since it doesn't have Ranger emblems and it
has the compartment in the bed, 2 gas tanks, big engine, and all of that
nice stuff

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Brian Johns
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 8:08 PM
To: Truck List
Subject: [61-79-list] Trailer Special or not?



I am looking at a '76 F150 extended cab to buy.  The owner says it's a
trailer special and pointed out where the emblem use to be on the tailgate.
It has a 390 and auto transmission (guessing a C6).  I'm wondering, what is
different about a trailer special and how do you verify it is one.

Thanks,
Brian


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Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: FMX OD
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:42:42 -0500


Doss H. writes:  >>So, is my 1967 FMX in my F250 camper special a 3 speed or a 4 speed
automatic? If 4 speed, is the 4th gear an overdrive?<<

It is a 3 speed and does not have lockup torque converter..  What they
are saying (I think) is that that particular planatary set could have been made
to be an OD without adding another gearset..  I think... I think...  I think...
Actually, I thought any Planatary set could be made to be an underdrive -
a direct - and an overdrive  --  All in just the one gearset... Maybe I need
to get one out and play with it a bit more..  As stated by someone earlier -
they are fun to play with..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Timing
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:47:44 -0500


Dave R. writes:  >>Only the OEM-type crank sprockets are made w/ the cam timing retard built in.
Most aftermarket performance timing sets have multiple-keyway crank sprockets,
which allow you to set timing to 0, or advance or retard cam timing in 6-degree
(or so) increments.<<

Will the 351C  timing set work on the 351M/400????


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: Degreeed M
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:04:41 -0600

> John writes:  >>The degree setting would be determined with where the
timing marks
> are stamped on the gears, mainly the cam gear.<<
>
> I thought it was done with the keyway(on the cam gear) being offset in
> one direction or the other...

The double roller timing set I just installed on my '69 429 had 3 keyways
cut in the crank gear, nearly 120 degrees apart plus or minus 2 degrees.
That seemed to be the method they chose.  Each keyway had a different
line-up mark on the crank gear but only one on the cam gear.

Rich


------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: Cam Timing
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:09:08 -0600

Thanks, Bill.  So I take it if I wanted more low end torque, I would advance
it?  Or am I thinking backwards?

> >From everything that I've been told all changing the cam timing basically
> does is move the torque curve up or down the RPM range.
>
>
> > I have been reading with interest the posts about M Block Timing which
> > stirred up a question that I have had for some time. Recently I replaced
> the
> > original timing set in my '68 429 with a double roller that came with
> slots
> > for a 2 degree advance or retard.  I installed it at the stack stetting
(0
> > advance) but have been wondering what purpose or advantage there would
be
> to
> > changing this timing.  Any educational help would be appreciated.
> >
>
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 22:52:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Trailer Special or not?

In a message dated 10/26/00 6:41:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bruce9 flash.net writes:

<< I have no idea, but I have a '70 F250 and would like to verify that it's a
Camper Special >>

Easiest way to tell if its a camper special is the electrical system.  They
will have the harness under the driver side of the bed for the camper
electrical.  Should also have dual batteries.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 22:53:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Cam Timing

In a message dated 10/26/00 7:06:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
richlars burgoyne.com writes:

<< Thanks, Bill.  So I take it if I wanted more low end torque, I would
advance
it?  Or am I thinking backwards? >>

You got it!

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 22:58:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Closed Knuckle Slack

i had a 74 closed nuckle, the nucle itself broke at the bottom pin.

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 23:13:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Timing

In a message dated 10/26/00 9:52:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
maggie11 HiWAAY.net writes:


>
> Dave R. writes:  >>Only the OEM-type crank sprockets are made w/ the cam
> timing retard built in.
> Most aftermarket performance timing sets have multiple-keyway crank
> sprockets,
> which allow you to set timing to 0, or advance or retard cam timing in
> 6-degree
> (or so) increments.<<
>
> Will the 351C  timing set work on the 351M/400????
>
>

From what I've seen and read, yes it will, though I'll bow to others if they
disagree with me as I've never tried it myself in a 400.

One question I do have is, in my '79 400, how much of an effect will I see by
resetting my cam back to 0 degrees or even 4 degree advanced? Reason Im
asking is that this is the second motor Ive had in my Bronco. The first I had
a RV style of cam with a double roller gear & chain set. It ran nice though I
dont remember any reall big or dramatic change once I was done (many moons
ago). The newer one I know was a shop rebuilt with Im assuming stock parts
(hey, I needed one and the price was right). Even though Ive got a new
manifold, 4bbl, & headers on the new motor, it still doesnt feel as good or
strong as the origional one without all that stuff.

I thought about putting in the origionals cam but decided against it for what
Im assuming is some excessive "lack of oil" wear. The origional motor
suffered an oil failure due to a bent #2 pushrod and ejected lifter down in
Miami. I was able to reinstall teh lifter and replace the pushrod and limp it
home. Although the oil pressure never came back up and it clattered all the
way home to Orlando.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:26:13 -0700
From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: slop in closed knuckle dana 44 front

>> What about the wheel bearings?  I would assume that they run in
>>oil too.

The bearings are packed in grease like other front wheel bearings.There
is oil inside the spindle,but not outside where the bearings ride.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:44:40 -0700
From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter

Ben Williams wrote, in part:
> Anybody have experience with "store bought" or homemade wooden
> spacers?  I wonder if the glues used in furniture grade plywood are going to
> have trouble standing up to the gasoline exposure.

I seem to recall that Steve Delanty mentioned this once.  Even if it wasn't
him, it sounds like something he would try.

I haven't seen him around here for a good long while, but I think the Deekster
would have his address if you asked him real nice.

-M-

Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".

------------------------------

From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 00:00:26 EDT
Subject: Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter

In a message dated 10/26/00 6:08:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
listar ford-trucks.com writes:

> From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
>
> ...mmm, let us know if it does.  I have been thinking about a wooden
> spacer ever since a thread on this group many moons ago centered on
> it...I, too, was a little concerned about the glues in plywood.  Thanks
> for being brave and trying it for us.
>

LOL.  I'll let you know if I get some nasty gunk I have to scrape out of my
engine. <grin>  So far, so good...

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4
'88 Bronco

------------------------------

From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 00:04:31 EDT
Subject: Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter

In a message dated 10/26/00 6:08:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
listar ford-trucks.com writes:

> Why not use a solid block of oak or any hardwood? Then there'd be no worry
> about
> the glue.


I thought of that, but figured the plywood would be less prone to cracking.
Also the plywood comes very flat from the start.  My pile of oak is all in
3"x5"x5' chunks and it would take a while to make a good blank.  The only
other candidate was cherry and that ain't happenin' <grin>.

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4
'88 Bronco

------------------------------

From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 00:06:58 EDT
Subject: Re: wooden carb spacer/adapter

In a message dated 10/26/00 6:08:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
listar ford-trucks.com writes:
>
> Made one a few years ago for a hot running 350R Ol*s motor from veneered
> particle board- working fine.  I'd say the glue actually helps the
> situation.  Natural woods tend to warp when exposed to extremes.  You do
> want to use wood, rather than plastics, for the insulating properties (and
> for the fact that plastics soften well below their actual melt point....=
> leaks.

Whew, a bit of positive feedback.  I was starting to get worried.  I do plan
to keep a sharp eye on it anyway.  The best part about this is that it was so
easy to make.

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4
'88 Bronco

------------------------------

From: "Jim & Becky White" <white micron.net>
Subject: Re: Pertonix Ignitor
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 21:51:46 -0600

You need nothing else other than about 15 minutes to install it.  I put one
in my '65 about a year ago and couldn't be happier.  Good luck with the
truck.


Jim
65 F100 / 300-6
Boise Idaho

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Kime
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 3:35 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Pertonix Ignitor


I am thinking about adding the Pertonix Ignitor, but I have some questions
about it first.  Do you need to get anything else?  Do you need to get an
aftermarket control box?  What would I gain if I did get a control box?
Should I get a new coil?  I already have new wires, cap, and rotor.

Everything on the truck is stock.  This spring I plan on upgrading to a 390,
new intake, and a new carb.  So, any advice would be great.

Thanks!

Matt
1974 F-250 4x4 Highboy
_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Trailer Special or not?
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 07:41:24 -0500

Ok cool, yup it has those, it has both trays, but somebody took out the
driver's side battery. I don't see any cables where I could hook up this
other battery. Can anyone show me a picture or diagram and what wire to use
so that I can get another battery hooked up?(Dual batteries will come in
handy for me)
________________________________________________
"Old Fords Never Die, They Just Go Faster..."
'67 F100 247. That's right, 247 =)(240 .060 over)
'70 F250 Camper Special. 390 cid and Dana 60.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.flash.net/~bruce9
________________________________________________


-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of
JUMPINFORD aol.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 9:53 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Trailer Special or not?


In a message dated 10/26/00 6:41:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bruce9 flash.net writes:

<< I have no idea, but I have a '70 F250 and would like to verify that it's
a
Camper Special >>

Easiest way to tell if its a camper special is the electrical system.  They
will have the harness under the driver side of the bed for the camper
electrical.  Should also have dual batteries.

Darrell & Tweety
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To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: Pyrate951 aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 09:18:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Pertonix Ignitor

I added the coil that matches the system about 3 years ago and has worked
great for me. I had to replace it about a year ago because the rivet came
lose and would not stay gapped. But pertronics replace it free of charge. It
works great and beats setting points.

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 12:35:18 GMT
Subject: Re: OD's and rear gears

> But doesn't it make sense that a 1:1 final driven tranny and a 2.75 rear
>would be more efficient than a 4.11:1 rear and a .69 OD???  One less set of

>gears to pull...Yes???   No???  ???  Overall final drive is still the same(relatively)..

>

I dunno, I suppose maybe in the figuring that an extra set of gears is a slight
efficiency loss, I suppose there would be some advantage, but no telling how
much ... anyone want to experiment ?

We'll have Gary hit a dyno with his 460/C6/2.75 gears, then we'll make him put
an OD tranny in and some 4:1 gears (3.99:1) and hit the dyno again, I mean with
all that "extra time" he's got now that he's retired ... ;)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: Tin - Zinc plating kit
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 08:57:11 -0500




Hi all- just a quickie to say I got a Tin - Zinc electroplating kit from
Eastwood a while back and I finally tried it on some brackets and straps
for my F-100's tailgate. I gotta say, I am impressed with the results. If
you have a bunch of small parts you need to rejuvenate for a project, and
they need that shiny / silvery zinc look, this will do the job. I
stripped all the old paint (overspray) and nasty grungy original zinc
plating off of  them, and now they look "brand new". It's got me pokin
around the garage looking for stuff to plate.  If anybody wants more
details just drop me a line.
   Later, Phil
 ( 63 1/2 Galaxie & 64 F-100, still in a million pieces....but they're
shiny! )


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 12:14:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Trailer Special or not?

In a message dated 10/27/00 5:42:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bruce9 flash.net writes:

<< Ok cool, yup it has those, it has both trays, but somebody took out the
driver's side battery. I don't see any cables where I could hook up this
other battery. Can anyone show me a picture or diagram and what wire to use
so that I can get another battery hooked up? >>

The negative just bolts to the firewall, the positive bolts to the output
side of a solenoid that is on the driver side fenderwell, just under the
master cylinder.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: leak from rear end and other cool mistakes.....
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 13:02:27 -0700

I used a highly technical, extremely accurate method which, until recently,
was classified and kept secret from the Russians.  When it finally leaked
out they gave up and let us in on the secret ....................

Slammed it back on with my 3/4" impact and guestimated the torque :-)
Vibration's gone, leak's gone, preload feels just about right......:-)  (PS,
don't try this at home :-))

BTW, I just blew $50 on a mistake and maybe cost another $52 that wasn't
necessary because I didn't understand a very simple characteristic of front
wheel drive systems, Escorts in particular.......The wheel bearing does not
fully become preloaded untill the axle nut is almost at it's full torque of
175-200#......DARN! #$%^%$##  Bearing kept feeling loose but it's all
pressed in so should have been tight even un torqued right? ....... WRONG!
My next one will be a piece a cake :-)  Could have used the junk yard
bearing if I had only known why it was loose but the new bearing and
pressing it in cost $52.

Just for the mechanical interest I will relate what cost the $50 as
well.....to get the lower control arm out of the knuckle the book says to
spread the split flange to release pressure so it can be pulled out
but........the angle it tries to come out causes it to bind even when
there's enough room to stick your finger around it...... DARN # !!#$##$%$#
.......didn't see it binding so kept spreading it wider and wider until I
felt something give......RATS!  Broke the flange, had to buy a whole new
knuckle at the junk yard which had a good bearing in it.  Turns out the
solution is very simple but not obvious......you have to tilt the hub
downward to keep the pin lined up with the hole as you pry and you also have
to release the pressure on the anti-sway bar so you can feel what you are
doing.  The reason it bound is due to the groove which goes all the way
around the pin for the bolt to slip through and the pin is only about 1"
long so it hangs up on the groove even with lots of space around it.

Most guys would not admit to such a stupid mistake but I figure by now I'm
so callused up from abuse by the world you guys can go ahead and have a
little fun with it :-)  To my credit, I couldn't see the split very well and
had to go by feel for the most part but I still should have realized that I
was getting it spread way too much based on the size of the chisels I was
using.  Even forgings will only bend so far.........:-(

On a happy note though I have worked on several different vehicles lately
and have learned quite a bit about many things.  This was the only one that
cost me money :-)

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> an inch-pound torque wrench (as opposed to a foot-pound wrench) - count
the
> number of threads that are exposed before you remove the nut and when you
> put it back on, leave the same number of threads exposed.


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 21 mpg 460?
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 13:18:22 -0700

I have one now to put on but I will get that fancy "Rochesters for Dummies"
book before I try to set it up.....:-)  While I praise them and preach them
I don't actually have one, nor have I ever had to try to tune one but I do
understand the principles involved.  I've only had one and it was a lot of
fun (not on a Ford though of course :-)) but never required any tuning while
I had it.

I do have some experience with SU's and Micuni's and have nothing but the
highest regard for any metering rod equipped carb for tunability.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> >  Rochesters are tunable from idle all the way up to
> > WOT but you do have to know what you are doing.  A poorly tuned
Rochester is
> > a lot more headache than a Holley or Ford because they are somewhat more
> > complex.
>
> Oh dear, Gary. we agree again. When a Rochester is set up right, it's a
good
> carb. When it gets out of adjustment, it will drive you batty.



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: E Brake cable
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 13:20:49 -0700

NAPA had all three cables when I got mine for the bronco.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> If a 2wd off a '76 will fit and you want to come take it off, it's yours.
I think the
> pedal and cable have to come off as a unit...Don't know for sure.



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 16:20:55 -0700
From: Negative Image <negativeimage earthlink.net>
Subject: switching services

Hi all,
just thought i'd let you know that i have finally had enough of
earthlink. since i've had thier service i have been increasingly
dissatisfied with them. when i get home today i'm going to deactiveate
my account and go to bellsouth probably. i'll email you all later. my
new email address is probably going to have something to do with my
cougar, so watch out for me.

--
Andrew Rolfsen
1965 Ford F100 Flare Side 351c
1968 Mercury Cougar 302
1966 Plymouth Fury III 318



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:54:22 -0400
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Vintage Tach questions

Hello,
I've been looking at 60s vintage tachometers (mainly on eBay) for both my
Futura and Club Wagon. I know a little about what was available, and my
first choice would be an electric unit that doesn't use a spearate sending
unit/relay.

My questions are:
1. Some of the tachs I've seen (SW, Sun, Dixco, etc) are listed as tachs
for 8-cyl engines, but would these tachs work on 6-cyl engines?
2. What RPM range do I need (4000, 6000, 8000)? Would a 4000 RPM be too
short of range? I guess the question should be -- what's a reasonable
estimate of max RPM for both the small (170) and big (240/300) engines?

If you can tell me more about what I should look for, let me know. I
figured list members, in some cases, would be much more knowledgeable than
some of the sellers of these items. I've bought a lot off eBay before, just
need to learn more about electric tachometers.

Thanks!
-don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 18:00:39 -0400
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: Vintage Tach questions

Hey Don-

I can say two things basically on what you ask-

First off-  yes, there is a difference in the way a tach between a 4, 6,
and 8 cyl reads the signal from the coil.. I'm sure guys on the list can go
into much more detail on the reason why- so I won't embarrass myself trying
to act smarter than I really am..  <wink>

Secondly, as a driver of many 300's in different forms, I have yet to crack
a 300 over 5,500 with ANY legitimate reason for power...anything above 5.5k
was purely by accident, and won't happen again with any luck.  (4v, cam,
etc).   I don't know what vintage tachs max at, but if you could find a 6k
tach, I think that would be great for any of your 6cyl need and give you
some cool movement while driving rather than the 10k tach I have in my one
truck that barely moved with the stock 300.. Ha ha ha..

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com
'67 Shortbed Stepside for sale! $4k

At 17:54 10/27/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello,
>I've been looking at 60s vintage tachometers (mainly on eBay) for both my
>Futura and Club Wagon. I know a little about what was available, and my
>first choice would be an electric unit that doesn't use a spearate sending
>unit/relay.
>
>My questions are:
>1. Some of the tachs I've seen (SW, Sun, Dixco, etc) are listed as tachs
>for 8-cyl engines, but would these tachs work on 6-cyl engines?
>2. What RPM range do I need (4000, 6000, 8000)? Would a 4000 RPM be too
>short of range? I guess the question should be -- what's a reasonable
>estimate of max RPM for both the small (170) and big (240/300) engines?
>
>If you can tell me more about what I should look for, let me know. I
>figured list members, in some cases, would be much more knowledgeable than
>some of the sellers of these items. I've bought a lot off eBay before, just
>need to learn more about electric tachometers.
>
>Thanks!
>-don
>
>Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
>FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
>61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: Natp244 cs.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 19:14:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Vintage Tach questions

In a message dated 10/27/00 4:53:23 PM Central Daylight Time,
haring fedora.net writes:

<< 2. What RPM range do I need (4000, 6000, 8000)? Would a 4000 RPM be too
short of range? I guess the question should be -- what's a reasonable
estimate of max RPM for both the small (170) and big (240/300) engines?
>>

I suppose its a matter of preference.  A big ol' 10K tach with the redline
marker about 8K sure makes you feel special!  But then again, making the
needle wrap on a smaller dial has a similar effect.  :) ....


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