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Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 20:03:31 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Wed, 25 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 311

In This Issue:
Re: Antifreeze in Cab
Re: E-Brake cable for '78
Re: E-Brake cable for '78
Re: cab and box swap - UPDATE
Re: F350 4X4 steering
Re: 21 mpg 460?
slop in dana 44 front
Re: F350 4X4 steering
Re: E-Brake cable for '78
Re: cracked frame around steering box
Re: Tie Rod End
Re: cracked frame around steering box
Re: OD in '78, retraction...
Re: leak from rear end
Re: Thick Header Flanges
Re: slop in dana 44 front
Re: cracked frame around steering box
Re: Antifreeze in Cab
Re: Antifreeze in Cab
Re: F350 4X4 steering
Re: cracked frame around steering box
Re: cracked frame around steering box
Re: E-Brake cable for '78
Re: E-Brake cable for '78
Re: slop in dana 44 front
Re: Tie Rod End
Re: '79 F-350 4x4 steering help
Re: F350 4X4 steering
Re: Advance

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 15:49:15 -0600
From: "William Whited (Tony)" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Antifreeze in Cab

I've had the same problem, depending on your location you may be able to just
bypass it until you get time to do it.  It really isn't hard mechanically
speaking it is really a pain though to get at.  Note really sure about the 65
but on my 74 and 77 it was.  In my 74 I went with the by pass for years, but
then again I'm in a warm climate.

> >
> > Okay, it's a '65 F-100 and when I'm driving, antifreeze leaks onto the
> > floor
> > of the cab.  What is it, and is it something I can fix myself?

--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: E-Brake cable for '78
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 17:50:34 -0400

can anyone guess where I'm gona say to check?

I just pulled a whole E brake system out of some truck at Shortie and Daves
U-Pull.  It could have passed for just being pulled out of the box.  I
pulled a bunch of other things, but I think it came to a total of $10.

-bob-


Scott Sanders wrote:

> I've been looking for quite some time now for a new E-Brake cable for my
'78
> F-150 4x4.   Can anyone help
> me.


------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: E-Brake cable for '78
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:59:40 -0500

Ok. There aren't that many u-pulls around here
so where is shortie and dave's u -pull????
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 4:50 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: E-Brake cable for '78


> can anyone guess where I'm gona say to check?
>
> I just pulled a whole E brake system out of some truck at Shortie and
Daves
> U-Pull.  It could have passed for just being pulled out of the box.  I
> pulled a bunch of other things, but I think it came to a total of $10.
>
> -bob-
>
>
> Scott Sanders wrote:
>
> > I've been looking for quite some time now for a new E-Brake cable for my
> '78
> > F-150 4x4.   Can anyone help
> > me.
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 18:46:56 -0400
From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: cab and box swap - UPDATE

>I also found a place in wi that i can buy a cab from for $150.  (just a U
>pull yard).  I have the deliam of keeping the f-150 so i have something to
>drive.  and buy the other cab so i can swap it.  and i can build up the
>f-250 like i wanted to (mud running/trail riding vehicle) and i won't have
>to worry about having nothing to drive and have to worry about time, even
>though it shouldn't take me to long.  From what people have said on this
>list here, it won't be that hard and time consumming i just wanna do it
>right.  Also you guys are such a big help you just don't understand how big
>of a help you guys are.  I have taken notes for everything that everyone has
>said every little detail. Thanks again and if anyone has noticed anything
>left out.  let me know.  also should i write a tech article about the swap
>when i'm done?

I would agree on the drive one while fixing the other...I've been down each
road and it's much better to be able to do a job right rather then rush it
because you're tired of walking and bumming rides.

I don't know if you should write so much a "tech" article - could be quite
time consuming to document everything - but more of a list of all the
things you had to do. Rather than explaining how every part comes off,
writing something more along the lines of a checklist of all the pieces
that have to be removed and then installed could be quite handy. So when
you go to do it again, you can just go through the list as you remove
everything and you don't end up scratching your head wondering if you've
forgotten to disconnect anything. Kind of like when you're pulling a motor
and the whole truck seems to be coming with it and then you realize you
forgot to disconnect the exhaust... :-)


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 15:43:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: F350 4X4 steering

Azie,

Thanks for the help on the procedure.  I'll get to this hopefully this
weekend and get back to you all on what I found.

In the meantime I've posted a few pictures of what the steering looks like
currently on this F-350.  They ain't the best quality but wadda want for a
Polaroid...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/Ford/steering01.jpg
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/Ford/steering02.jpg

Do you seen any problems with the way it looks now?  Remember I'm not at
all familiar with the "correct" setup for these trucks so this could be
"way off" if you know what I mean.

Later,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project still in progress)
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred" (Project comin on quickly)

--- "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net> wrote:
>
> Eric F. writes:  >>How can I test the various parts of the steering to
> see where the problem
> lies.  I'm sure there are multiple issues but I don't want to just
> replace
> everything if I don't have to.  I can figure out how to test the column
> but what about from the pitman arm on down?  How do I test the box
> independent from the other parts?<<
>
> Have someone bump the steering wheel back and forth left to right(from
> tight to tight)
> and look at the various connections and the input to the steering box
> and the output
> of the box..  What we're all saying is to isolate the problem 1st, then
> do the "fix".
> May not be the box, but could be any one or a combination of several
> things.  Look
> and see what you notice as "slop" and come back to us..
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.


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Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf!  It's FREE.
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------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 21 mpg 460?
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 18:54:30 -0700

Used one or two years on the Bird or Torino, 68 or there abouts.  Makes it a
legal carb for Fords In my book :-)

The main advantage the Rochester has over the competition is they deemed it
a good thing to make the primaries very, very small.  Ford, Holley and
Carter spread bores have much larger primaries so don't carry off the
"Efficiency" thing as well.  I've seen a couple of Ford's with pretty small
ones but still larger than the Rochester.  I used the smallest one of the
batch I had lying around but the Ford versions are not tunable so I can't
get the most out of it.  Rochesters are tunable from idle all the way up to
WOT but you do have to know what you are doing.  A poorly tuned Rochester is
a lot more headache than a Holley or Ford because they are somewhat more
complex.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> A super tuned Rochester,
> ======================================================
> A What
> i didnt know they even made such a critter for a ford
> thats a G.M. carb



------------------------------

From: "Don Jones" <twistedhand hotmail.com>
Subject: slop in dana 44 front
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 23:01:07 GMT


My truck has developed a lot of slack in one front wheel.
Its a '70 f-250 4WD with a dana 44 closed knuckle steering.
The local parts place dosent have an exploded view of this setup.
Can anybody tell me whats inside of there?  Is it a Kingpin? a ball joint?
The Drag link has some slack in it also.  Everything was nice and tight 3
weeks ago when i serviced the truck, but i have spent a week in the bush
moose hunting and going through some pretty rough country and deep water
since then.


Don Jones
1970 f-250 ~Fordzilla~~


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------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: F350 4X4 steering
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:08:45 -0700

The only difference between yours and the system on my 1979 F-250 is the tie
rod from the pitman arm to the steering arm is straight instead of
"dropped". Probably due to the difference in the suspension between the 1
ton and the 3/4 ton. It looks pretty stock to me.

/// Smith & Wesson...the Original point & click interface \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Finn" <ecfinn yahoo.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 3:43 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: F350 4X4 steering


> Azie,
>
> Thanks for the help on the procedure.  I'll get to this hopefully this
> weekend and get back to you all on what I found.
>
> In the meantime I've posted a few pictures of what the steering looks like
> currently on this F-350.  They ain't the best quality but wadda want for a
> Polaroid...
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/Ford/steering01.jpg
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/Ford/steering02.jpg
>
> Do you seen any problems with the way it looks now?  Remember I'm not at
> all familiar with the "correct" setup for these trucks so this could be
> "way off" if you know what I mean.




------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: E-Brake cable for '78
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 19:10:25 -0400

Sweedsford (I believe) road just outside of Chonshohocken off of route 23.
Phila PA area.
==================================
Ok. There aren't that many u-pulls around here
so where is shortie and dave's u -pull????

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: cracked frame around steering box
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 19:24:23 -0700

Well, moving the box sideways will not affect the "Alignment" but it will
affect the position of the steering wheel and centering of the steering box.
With a lift you just about need to get an adjustable drag link to re-center
the steering box so the wheel can remain in the factory positon for better
handling when going straight at speed.

Steel is just steel and a frame is just a bunch of steel welded together so
"V" out the crack and weld it back up, simple as that.  Make sure you weld
"Hot" enough to get good penetration so you get a full thickness repair.  If
you don't go good vertical welds then try to find a friend who does or use a
wire welder, they're much easier to use on a vertical surface.

If you are hot dogging it then you do need to reinforce this area usually
but don't just put a small piece over the box location, make it larger to
spread the loads over a larger portion of the frame to reduce fatigue.  On
Fords, these cracks are usually due to loosening of the box mounting bolts
which causes lots of movement and eventually fatigue.  Once you get it fixed
up, keep them tight :-)  All welds in this case should be longitudinal,
never across the frame or if welding across the frame pick a place that has
more steel in it for support.  Welds cause fault or stress lines along their
edges so Transverse welds may crack and cause the frame to fail unless you
can use a torch and anneal or at least stress relieve the weld area.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> >have a welder and would be able to weld new steel in place.
> >
> >The problem is, I can't get to the back side of the frame.  On the 79's
the
> >frame is boxed starting at the steering box.  If I were to just add a
whole
> >plate right where the box is, I'd be adding another 1/8-1/4 inch of steel
> >messing with the steering alignment.


------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Tie Rod End
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 19:32:22 -0400

Kieth,
went to my favorite parts store today.  They went thru the same thing for a
guy yesteday.  Here is the P/N.

MOOG P/N ES150R  Price: 23.59 Ea
Hope this helps.

Rich



> Well in response to the below, good thing you aint seen my steering, I
still
> cant find tie rod ends for that draglink with the garrison style power
> steering, I did manage to rebuild the thing though, but I got like 5
inches
> of free play in the steering wheel, makes it kinda tricky to manuver down
> the highway but when its a daily driver with no other recourse, yick, if
> anyone has any part numbers for those things, it would be greatly
> appreciated.
> Keith Price
> 71 F250 4x4 390
> ---



------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: cracked frame around steering box
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 19:41:24 -0400

I took care of it today, and just did what I thought would work.  I didn't
"V" out the frame.  Had I known this would have been advantageous prior to
just welding a plate on top of the frame, I might have done so.  After
bolting everything back together, I noticed one more small crack on the
frame going horizontal (inch/inch and a half) right at the bend (in front of
the box) of the frame.  Had I seen this (before it was dark and I was
showing my dad) I would have grinded it down and just lined up a weld right
on top of it.  I dropped it back off at the inspection station, and if they
say I need to fix it, I'll be at it tomorrow afternoon.  If not, some other
day will do.  Either way I'm going to fix it, but I just want those
stickers!!

Side note:  Every time I weld under my truck, I seem to get a chemical burn?
This is only the second time, and I had a fan blowing the gases away from my
face, but... anyone know what this if from exactly?  Is it the flux casing
the solder?


=============================================

Steel is just steel and a frame is just a bunch of steel welded together so
"V" out the crack and weld it back up, simple as that.


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: OD in '78, retraction...
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 19:37:01 -0700

Ok, I may have gone off on a tangent here.  If the wheels have the same
torque applied to them then the axles have that torque applied also.  The
picture I had in my head is in a truck application where you may have very
high static loading a lower (higher numerical) gear ratio in the diff will
require stronger axles.  Since the F-250's all use the larger axles the most
common ratio is 4.10 which also happens to be appropriate for the larger
tires they come with.

If the Over all ratio is the same then the axles will have the same loading
regardless, sorry.  I believe I got off track on this one :-)

What I was originally arguing is that they use lower axle ratios to reduce
the effort on the OD gears which is true given the same input torque.  With
a stronger tranny you can run taller gears and larger engines etc...the axle
thing was a brain fart, sorry :-)

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> My contention is this is only applicable to acceleration and not steady
state



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: leak from rear end
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 19:46:16 -0700

The torque on the pinion nut is around 275# and this rear end uses a crush
sleeve so when you get the seal replaced you need to get the nut back on to
the same torque as before to ensure the same preload on the pinion bearings.
If I ever take mine off again I will use locktite on it to keep the nut
tight.  This seems to be a problem with the 9".

As to whether the seal is accessable from the outside, I can't remember but
I believe it is :-(  I made up a special puller for applications like this
where there is a shaft in the way.  Some of them can be popped out with a
screw driver if you are carefull by levering it against the under side of
the seal on one side and the outside on the opposit side (you need a long
one for this to get enough leverage).

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> my 61 has  a leak from the rear end where the driveshaft connects...is
> this a pretty
> straight forward job?? Just a seal??



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Thick Header Flanges
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 19:52:38 -0700

I'm not all that experienced with headers but I would have thought that 3/8"
is pretty thick.  I've seen some with 1/4" and the problem is that when you
tighten the bolts they deform enough to prevent a good seal.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> When my Sanderson's came (3/8" flanges) I held one up to the head.  Lo
> and behold, the sealing surfaces were not flat.  Granted, it was only
> off by maybe 0.030" across the head,  I put some bolts in and by merely
> finger tightening the flange flattened right out.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 17:12:38 -0700
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: slop in dana 44 front

>My truck has developed a lot of slack in one front wheel.
>Its a '70 f-250 4WD with a dana 44 closed knuckle steering.
>The local parts place dosent have an exploded view of this setup.
>Can anybody tell me whats inside of there?  Is it a Kingpin? a ball joint?
>The Drag link has some slack in it also.  Everything was nice and
>tight 3 weeks ago when i serviced the truck, but i have spent a week
>in the bush moose hunting and going through some pretty rough
>country and deep water since then.
>
>
>Don Jones
>1970 f-250 ~Fordzilla~~


I am going to take a stab in the dark here with out seeing the truck
but you might have a trunion (sp) bearing that has gone out on you.

what you have on the top and bottom of must closed knuckles is a
tapered roller bearing.  With abuse (doesn't always take a lot)
larger tires or improperly shimmed can get destroyed quite easily.
jack up the offending side and check for movement.  If the bearing is
completely gone the top of the tire will have a slight angle in at
the top, the knuckle wipers will have excessive ware on them or be
miss aligned and leaking.

¢.02
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: cracked frame around steering box
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 20:11:10 -0700

It's called "reflection"  the Ultraviolet rays bounce off light colored
surfaces behind you and reflect off the inside of the mask.  You can get
some serious burns that way.  It's a really sneaky thing too so you have to
always be aware of this before setting up a job.

For wire welding you should be using a #12 green lens.  For some stick
welding you can get away with #10 but I find this a tad too light for my
eyes.  You need to keep them clean so you can see what you are doing.  Use
plastic on the outside and glass on the inside.  The plastic lenses are
throw aways but will take a lot more abuse from hot slag than glass will,
vastly more.  If you always wash them with water they will last a long time.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Side note:  Every time I weld under my truck, I seem to get a chemical
burn?



------------------------------

From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: Antifreeze in Cab
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:05:49 -0800


>Okay, it's a '65 F-100 and when I'm driving, antifreeze leaks onto the
floor
>of the cab.  What is it, and is it something I can fix myself?
>
Check the heater core.


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 20:20:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Antifreeze in Cab

Good chance it's your heater core.  No big thing to fix.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 17:23:46 -0700
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: F350 4X4 steering

>Azie,
>
>
>
>In the meantime I've posted a few pictures of what the steering looks like
>currently on this F-350.  They ain't the best quality but wadda want for a
>Polaroid...
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/Ford/steering01.jpg
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/Ford/steering02.jpg
>
>Do you seen any problems with the way it looks now?  Remember I'm not at
>all familiar with the "correct" setup for these trucks so this could be
>"way off" if you know what I mean.
>
>Later,
>
>Eric Finn


It looks like the truck is lifted?  Is this correct?  I don't recall
if the Dana 60 used a steering arm block that tall and that has got
to be a dropped drag-link (after market) and way to much arch in
those springs to be stock.

Just start with all the basics.  Look at the entire front end for
parts with obvious ware( starting with the least expensive first) and
work you way from there.  Might want to jack up the front end and
have a look at the knuckles.  give them the old shake the tire test
If you have movement between the knuckle and the yolk that could also
be adding to the problem.  Start with the  steering shaft to the
steering box then move on to the drag-link, tie rod ends, make sure
the front end is properly aligned.  By now you should be able to tell
if the steering box is the real source of the problem.

That is all...
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: cracked frame around steering box
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:14:27 -0800

Flash burn, basically the UV rays from your welder, sounds like nothing more
then a nice sunburn. If you have any real major concerns consult your doc.\
Keith
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <xavetarx home.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 3:41 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: cracked frame around steering box


>I took care of it today, and just did what I thought would work.  I didn't
>"V" out the frame.  Had I known this would have been advantageous prior to
>just welding a plate on top of the frame, I might have done so.  After
>bolting everything back together, I noticed one more small crack on the
>frame going horizontal (inch/inch and a half) right at the bend (in front
of
>the box) of the frame.  Had I seen this (before it was dark and I was
>showing my dad) I would have grinded it down and just lined up a weld right
>on top of it.  I dropped it back off at the inspection station, and if they
>say I need to fix it, I'll be at it tomorrow afternoon.  If not, some other
>day will do.  Either way I'm going to fix it, but I just want those
>stickers!!
>
>Side note:  Every time I weld under my truck, I seem to get a chemical
burn?
>This is only the second time, and I had a fan blowing the gases away from
my
>face, but... anyone know what this if from exactly?  Is it the flux casing
>the solder?
>
>
>=============================================
>
>Steel is just steel and a frame is just a bunch of steel welded together so
>"V" out the crack and weld it back up, simple as that.
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 17:26:13 -0700
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: cracked frame around steering box

Most repairs I have seen have been to weld up the broken area and
almost every time add a plate on top of the frame.  Do it once, do it
well.
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 20:25:58 EDT
Subject: Re: E-Brake cable for '78

In a message dated 10/25/00 12:15:58 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
greg gregster.com writes:

<<
Keith wrote:

> Does LMC truck also have a spedo cable for a 71 F250 4wd ? And if they do
> are they going to want my firstborn child as payment?

I dunno. My cat. is for 73-79 and they do have them but only for 2WD. $17.95
 >>
The 48-72 Catalog does not list the 4WD either.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: E-Brake cable for '78
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 20:23:55 -0700

I got mine at NAPA for a reasonable price.  Most yard around here don't mess
with stuff like that and won't let you pull your own.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> > > I've been looking for quite some time now for a new E-Brake cable for
my
> > '78
> > > F-150 4x4.   Can anyone help
> > > me.



------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 20:28:05 EDT
Subject: Re: slop in dana 44 front

With closed knuckles your going to have tapered a pivot bearing on top and
bottom of knuckle.  Some times a little bit of grease will work.  Quick way
to check is jack up one side of truck and try and move tire by putting one
hand on bottom of tire and one on top then try and move tire in and out.
Some times it takes pretty good pressure to move the tire.

------------------------------

From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: Tie Rod End
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:19:49 -0800

Thanks, if I can get rid of that 5 inches of play in the wheel I will be a
happy man, I should be able to even find that where I work (napa) if I cant,
then there are other parts stores out there :o)
Keith

>Kieth,
>went to my favorite parts store today.  They went thru the same thing for a
>guy yesteday.  Here is the P/N.
>
>MOOG P/N ES150R  Price: 23.59 Ea
>Hope this helps.
>
>Rich
>
>
>
>> Well in response to the below, good thing you aint seen my steering, I
>still
>> cant find tie rod ends for that draglink with the garrison style power
>> steering, I did manage to rebuild the thing though, but I got like 5
>inches
>> of free play in the steering wheel, makes it kinda tricky to manuver down
>> the highway but when its a daily driver with no other recourse, yick, if
>> anyone has any part numbers for those things, it would be greatly
>> appreciated.
>> Keith Price
>> 71 F250 4x4 390
>> ---
>
>
>=============================================================
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>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 20:49:09 EDT
Subject: Re: '79 F-350 4x4 steering help

Hey Eric if he's not interested then I may very well be.  Need a drag link to
go from knuckle to pitman arm.  (Or what ever that one is called) contact of
list.
  Aeroape82 aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: F350 4X4 steering
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 17:53:43 -0700

Woops...I meant dropped drag link...I always screw those 2 up...

/// Smith & Wesson...the Original point & click interface \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 4:08 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: F350 4X4 steering


> The only difference between yours and the system on my 1979 F-250 is the
tie
> rod from the pitman arm to the steering arm is straight instead of
> "dropped". Probably due to the difference in the suspension between the 1
> ton and the 3/4 ton. It looks pretty stock to me.
>
> /// Smith & Wesson...the Original point & click interface \\
>




------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Advance
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 20:54:19 -0700

Ok, WOT is a different animal than cruise, completely different.  Engineers
know that when you step on the gas you want maximum power.  There is nothing
you can do about the amount of air (oxygen) in the mixture (thats defined by
the cam and ports and valves etc.)  so you need to utilize every last
molecule of Oxygen, not fuel under WOT conditions for maximum "Power"
efficiency whereas, at cruise you are trying to get maximum economy (Fuel
efficiency) so the fuel system is designed to supply more fuel than it
really needs for a perfect 14.7:1 ratio under WOT conditions to guarantee
this and just  barely keep it running at cruise, that is vey lean where
power is not critical.

Obviously the average touring engine is a compromise between these two
extremes and tries to accomplish both but we all know that if this were
possible "Racing" engines would have the same system on them as touring
engines.  The vac is on there for "Driveability" and cruise economy due to
the large variation of rpm used in touring.

Most ported vac's would leave you at zero vacuum advance at high rpm, no
throttle (decelleration) where you would have full advance with Manifold
vacuum.  Most of these carbs also have dashpots to prevent sudden closing of
the throttle so this is not exactly cut and dried so to speak :-)

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> This makes sense sort of ... though I'm not sure why you have a rich
condition,
> I mean it shouldn't be excessive anyway, though probably richer than a
cruise
> condition otherwise the motor wouldn't accelerate...
>
> Frankly we've all agreed that WOT puts the vaccuum portion of the advance
out
> of the loop, and its back in as soon as you let off, but is it advancing
or
> retarding when you let off ?  Also what about idle condition ?  on ported
it ....

---

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