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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:26:18 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:26:18 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #308 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Mon, 23 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 308 In This Issue: Re: cab and box swap Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside Re: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside rear end leaks At the shop Re: NP205 Sleeve Kits Re: At the shop Re: cab and box swap Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal Re: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside bed for '65 F100 Re: bed for '65 F100 tires! Re: 400 fuel problem --Fixed!! Re: Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal Re: Cab and Bed swap cab and box swap Re: OD in '78 Re: Cab for sale Re: Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal Re: Cab for sale Re: OD in '78 Re: OD in '78 Coil spring paint... Re: Coil spring paint... Re: Coil spring paint... Re: Coil spring paint... ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: cab and box swap Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 21:24:06 -0400 > > and vin tags.. hmm yeah lets get pulled over with wrong vin tags :) > i already took them off.. (still in truck cuz i still drive it, i broke my > car and junked it) so from that i'm gonna have to do a sorta rush job > how long you think it will take with say 3 guys or so? GOOD POINT. DONT FORGET THE VIN TAG! I Swapped cabs on my 76 in Ohio years ago, the junk yard refused to give me the vin tag with the cab. I forgot to remove the original vin tag from my old cab. Since I just painted the truck, (read no bumpers or trim re-installed yet) I put the license plate in the rear window. The next day my little brother borrowed my truck to go to work and was pulled over by johny law. Seems the licencse plate fell behind the seat, the officer then looked for the vin tag. It wasn't there. He took my brother to jail why they "checked this out". they impounded my truck for 2 weeks why they verified several serial #'s from the frame. I was in the Navy, on leave, and lived in VA. The cop wanted a local phone # in Ohio. I gave him my wife's grandmother's phone number, he thought I was pulling his leg because that was his grandmother's phone #. Turns out he was my wifes cousin!!! He called the bone yard and they stated that they never give the vin tag with a body and confirmed that I bought the cab from them. Didn't matter, they still had to impound my truck. Little brother spent about 3 hrs in the clink. He STILL has not forgiven me.... Rich ------------------------------ From: "Bertolin" <Bertolina Ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 18:34:51 -0700 Does anyone know where I can find the brackets for the original style rear bumper that came with the 1965 F-100 styleside trucks? My truck has a homemade diamond plate bumper on it and I would like to change it back to the original chrome style. I've looked in several catalogs (Mac's, LMC, Dennis Carpenter, Bob's, Obsolete, & Vintage) but all I can find is the bumper not the bracket. Thanks, Roberta with 1965 custom cab. ------------------------------ From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 21:35:44 EDT Subject: Re: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside In a message dated 10/23/00 9:30:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Bertolina ford-trucks.com writes:
<< Does anyone know where I can find the brackets for the original style rear bumper that came with the 1965 F-100 styleside trucks? My truck has a homemade diamond plate bumper on it and I would like to change it back to the original chrome style. I've looked in several catalogs (Mac's, LMC, Dennis Carpenter, Bob's, Obsolete, & Vintage) but all I can find is the bumper not the bracket. Thanks, Roberta with 1965 custom cab. >> I'm parting out my '65, I may have some laying around. I'm pretty sure I have some, cause we bought a parts truck too. My brother-in-law is coming over to help me get my stuff together, so I'll let you know for sure in the next couple of days...if you're interested. :o) ~Melissa Marietta, GA 1965 F100 Custom Cab...sadly parting out. :o( 1989 Bronco XLT ICQ#84544993 Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line... Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: rear end leaks Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 20:38:34 -0500 Joe writes: >>my 61 has a leak from the rear end where the driveshaft connects...is this a pretty straight forward job?? Just a seal??<< Most likely just a seal and it is pretty basic and straight forward. The pinion bearing may be bad, but not necessarily.. Give it a try and let us know how it turns out. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: At the shop Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 20:48:06 -0500 Tony writes: >>.. Keep in mind these are also the people who helped me out with that 67-79 4x4 steering column universal fix for our trucks that everybody has had problems with.<< And my Son and I really appreciate that one.. His F350 4X4 steers much better now. Thanks to you. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 21:04:57 -0500 From: Stu Varner <nukegm ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: NP205 Sleeve Kits At 07:14 PM 10/22/00 -0400, you wrote: >Hey Rich! > >Why not just buy new yolks? They aren't that expensive and are still >available through dana/spicer dealer. > >The guys I ALWAYS go to with any of my needs is Sam Winer Motors. they >rebuilt my transfer case entirely (new yolks, input/output shafts, bearings >countershaft gears, etc) about a year ago, and it's just gorgeous... Very >good people and good prices. I will admit, when I saw the outward appearance of the t-case they built, I was very very impressed! Toniomarino is right! Fabulous work! Football is over and I once again have a life at home in the evenings with the list again! Glad to be back. Stu Nuke GM! http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm (for sale!!! AND going cheaper every day!) ------------------------------ From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: At the shop Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 22:06:30 -0400 Wish I was on this list when this info was put out. I bought the steering shaft for my 76 4x4 from ford dealer in West by God (for the un-informed, that's West Virginia). I think i could buy another 76 parts truck for what I paid for that :) Rich > > Tony writes: >>.. Keep in mind these are also the people who > helped me out with that 67-79 4x4 steering column universal fix > for our trucks that everybody has had problems with.<< > > And my Son and I really appreciate that one.. His F350 4X4 steers > much better now. Thanks to you. > > Azie Magnusson > Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 22:06:05 EDT Subject: Re: cab and box swap I swapped a 1974 F250 4x4 cab onto a 1979 F-350 4x4 frame about a year ago. The rear most hole for the cab (behind the seat) had to moved inboard. The good thing about a FORD is that all "dimples" are there to mark the hole location. They look like dents in the sheetmetal, but are for "Optional" or "Change Parts". They even had the dimples in the radiator support, when I added factory Air Conditioning to my 1979 Crewcab. Like everybody has said.....Take your time.....and check everything twice before you lift the body. Good luck!!! Wayne Grabley (Clifton, NJ) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 22:16:06 -0400 From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal It costs $45 bucks for the two yokes, and the GREASABLE universal to chop the old one off the shaft and weld the new one on.. Takes literally about a 1/2 hour to an hour to do. Hey, maybe I should start doing this repair for people? ;-) Actually, if somebody could be as so kind to post those spicer part numbers ONCE AGAIN to the list, I would greatly apprecaite it so I don't have to go digging it up again... I have to do this to my '76 here soon, and I'll finally write up a stupid tech artical on how to do it so we can just point newbies and people who need it done to the tech section... 8-) Oh shoot- guess what I just found: ---------------------------------- Here are all the Spicer part numbers.... SP 10-4-431-SX SP 10-4-13 SP 5-170X I think the last one is the U-joint itself, and the others are the yolks. You have to cut the old one off the steering shaft and slide the new one on. The other yoke mates directly with the splined shaft coming out of the firewall.... ------------------------------------ Tony Marino redneck raex.com
At 22:06 10/24/2000 -0400, you wrote: >Wish I was on this list when this info was put out. I bought the steering >shaft for my 76 4x4 from ford dealer in West by God (for the un-informed, >that's West Virginia). I think i could buy another 76 parts truck for what >I paid for that :) > >Rich > > > > Tony writes: >>.. Keep in mind these are also the people who > > helped me out with that 67-79 4x4 steering column universal fix > > for our trucks that everybody has had problems with.<< > > > > And my Son and I really appreciate that one.. His F350 4X4 steers > > much better now. Thanks to you. > > > > Azie Magnusson > > Ardmore, Al. > > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Bertolin" <Bertolina Ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 19:27:30 -0700 Melissa, I am very interested if it's the original style bumper you have. Thanks! Roberta > -----Original Message----- > From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of EffieFrd aol.com
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 6:36 PM > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside > > > In a message dated 10/23/00 9:30:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > Bertolina ford-trucks.com writes:
> > << Does anyone know where I can find the brackets for the > original style rear > bumper that came with the 1965 F-100 styleside trucks? My truck has a > homemade diamond plate bumper on it and I would like to change it back to > the original chrome style. I've looked in several catalogs (Mac's, LMC, > Dennis Carpenter, Bob's, Obsolete, & Vintage) but all I can find is the > bumper not the bracket. Thanks, Roberta with 1965 custom cab. > >> > > I'm parting out my '65, I may have some laying around. I'm pretty sure I > have some, cause we bought a parts truck too. My brother-in-law > is coming > over to help me get my stuff together, so I'll let you know for > sure in the > next couple of days...if you're interested. :o) > > > ~Melissa > Marietta, GA > 1965 F100 Custom Cab...sadly parting out. :o( > 1989 Bronco XLT > ICQ#84544993 > Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line... > Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It. > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: Dlkiehl aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 22:59:51 EDT Subject: bed for '65 F100 I'm looking for a bed, or repair panels, for my '65 F-100. The floor of the bed is rusted through at the front edge where it meets the vertical cross panel. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Darryl Kiehl Atlanta ------------------------------ From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 23:11:45 EDT Subject: Re: bed for '65 F100 In a message dated 10/23/00 11:01:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Dlkiehl aol.com writes:
<< I'm looking for a bed, or repair panels, for my '65 F-100. The floor of the bed is rusted through at the front edge where it meets the vertical cross panel. Any suggestions would be appreciated. >> i have a bed, and i'm in marietta. last time i checked it was in ok shape, it may or may not need a new floor. i'm no expert. its a shortbed styleside...custom cab, so it has holes for the chrome....and i have the chrome and clips. give me a holler if you're interested. ~Mel Marietta, GA 1965 F100 Custom Cab...sadly parting out. :o( 1989 Bronco XLT ICQ#84544993 Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line... Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It. ------------------------------ From: "Don Jones" <twistedhand hotmail.com>
Subject: tires! Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 04:52:26 GMT Looks like I am going to have to go shopping for tires. I am running some old 7.50 -17 retreads and had one throw a *big* chunk of tread on the highway this weekend. i'm not too sure of what the chances of getting a pair of bias tires in this size are, so i guess i may be shopping for a full set. I've got a set of 16.5 rims in good shape that i may use, depending on what i can get for tires. Arent 16.5's usually a low profile tire? I have a funky set of 17" rims on my parts truck. They look like a one piece rim , but they split in the centre and dont have a locking ring. Made by firestone. I took one in to get the old tire taken off. the guy there couldnt get the tire off. Then an old retired mechanic came in and showed him how to get it apart. He said he hadnt seen a set of those in 40 years. He went on to say that he wouldnt mount a set of tires on them because they are too dangerous to work on. Don Jones 1970 f-250 4x4 ~Fordzilllla~ _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 23:18:19 -0700 From: mclough page.az.net (Michael Clough)
Subject: Re: 400 fuel problem --Fixed!! Hello all, I recently posted about a fuel problem that has been occurring with my 400. I remembered a technique to find the problem and thought I might share it. It involves temporarily installing a short piece of clear vinyl hose inline between the fuel pump and metal line going to the tank. Then you check it for bubbles and if you see any then search for a hole or air leak. This test showed me bubbles and so I then replaced the rubber fuel line between the tank and the metal line running up the frame. What a pain!! It had a tiny slit in it which was letting in air. Now I have no more troubles. Just don't forget to remove the vinyl hose as it will not last too long. I picked up the trailer from the Kaibab Forest this evening and I towed it home with no problems. Now I don't know what I am going to do with the new fuel pump that I ordered. I guess it will go behind the seat to save the day some other time. Thanks for the input, mike ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 05:56:54 -0700 From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal Tony Marino wrote: > It costs $45 bucks for the two yokes, and the GREASABLE universal to chop > the old one off the shaft and weld the new one on.. Takes literally about a > 1/2 hour to an hour to do. Hey, maybe I should start doing this repair > for people? ;-) > A word of caution for anyone assembling this: The '77 F100 I recently bought had a homemade shaft which was built by the not-so-mechanically-inclined PO. Somehow he managed to warp the yokes either when he pressed the u-joint into the yoke or when he welded (bubble-gummed) the yoke to the *galvanized* pipe. There was also no slip joint which is a no-no IMO. Anyways, I had to brace my feet and pull the wheel with both hands to move this truck around the driveway. Greg ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 07:00:27 -0500 From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: Cab and Bed swap > do you plan on painting the frame and the whole nine yards? Being > the quick job and everything goes right ( which it never does) and > you don't need any other parts ( which you might) it could be done in > a couple of days. Getting both cabs ready to remove might take you a > whole day and figure 2 for putting one back together enough to drive. > That is with 3 sober friends actually working. > Well, this is coming from experience, I have done 3 of them. The first was a frame swap. There was 2 of us and a chain hoist. I swapped a F-250 4x4 frame into a F-150 Supercab. I did this swap (including taking the motor and gas tank out of the 2wd frame and placing it in the 4wd frame. It took about 12 hours, from when I drove the 2wd in the garage and drove the 4wd out. The second swap I did was a cab and clip by myself. I stripped everything off of the bad cab, cut the old body mounts, rolled the cab off of the frame into the yard, and pulled the truck under the cab that was hanging from a chain hoist. Total time was about 36 hours, but I cleaned the frame once the cab and clip was off, and painted it. The 3rd one was done last weekend. The body was pulled off the weekend before, by way of torch and fork lift. The good body was placed on the frame by 2 people and a chain lift. Then everything was hooked up and was running in about 6 hours. A couple of tips for you. Don't bother trying to save the body mounts. Torch them. 4 people will be allright for the cab, but it will take more than 4 to move the bed. The body mount bolts used in the front clip and cab are 7/16-14. Make sure you have the new mounts. I would not bother swapping the master cylinder right away. just pull it from the F-250 booster and let it hang. Let me tell you that the F-250 and 350 are a pain to bleed the brakes. Think thru all of the thing that could go wrong and plan for it. Good luck Steve S. 76 F-350 Crew cab 77 F-250 Supercab http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 07:51:55 -0500 From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: cab and box swap Here's a few tips for the cab swap: I had the cab off the frame, installed new cab mounts, patched some holes in the floor, painted the frame and cab bottom, then re-installed. It took me three weekends (and I thought I was doing real well). I agree with whoever said "take your worst case estimate and double it". Here's a trick that seemed to work well. We (me and four friends) took the cab off the frame using an engine hoist (cherry picker). We tied a few wraps of rope around the roof through the door openings near the front, extended the cherry picker to its full extension, lifted the cab by the rope, and voila. I also had the 4 friends positioned at the corners of the cab to steady it (and one person on the hoist). Actually, I couldn't get the floor shift lever off, so this setup actually lifted the cab high enough to clear the floor shifter! BTW, the doors and the front clip were off. I found that an easy way to degrease and paint the frame was to use the purple liquid degreaser available at auto parts stores and a pressure washer. Spray down the frame with the degreaser, let it sit for an hour (light scraping at the thick parts), then hose it down with the pressure washer. Repeat. Treat with metal prep, then POR-15 semigloss black (one part moisture curing urethane). Couln't be easier. Extremely professional results. Will last forever. Doss Halsey '67 F250 Camper Special '68 F250 Camper Special '72 F250 Camper Special ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: OD in '78 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 08:32:54 -0700 No, no, no......I was talking strictly stress on the parts, not efficiency :-) Efficiency is not affected one whitt by any of this except the additional gears in the OD. I was speaking "Weak Link" I guess :-) The lower the rear end ratio (higher numerically) the more stress you put on the axles and less on the drive shaft and transmission. Happily Totally Retired, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > > yes but the portion of the total torque > >applied at the wheels will be higher in the axles with lower gears > > Uhm ... not sure exactly what you mean here ... you mean the amount of torque > lost in the differential will be less with the lower gears ? Are we ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Cab for sale Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 06:51:25 -0700 > > > "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" wrote: > > > > > > > What a coincidence. I'm just outside of Portland. Truck > wouldn't happen to > > be in Buxton would it? > > > > Tom H. > > Nope ... Westbrook. If you're interested in parts b4 I bring > the truck here, > I'll get ya connected with my buddy/partner Jimbo. He's right > next door in > Gorham. I'm about 65 miles north of there in Sumner. > > BTW, we've also got 2 other trucks for parts ... '77 crewcab > w/no cab (Jimbo's > using that one) and a '77 supercab (cab very rusty). Both > 2WD. No beds (the only > good one is MINE!). Maybe some hoods and fenders in good > shape (depends on what > I wanna keep for spares). And we have all kindsa glass. I'll > be listing allot of > stuff on my website w/photos in the near future. Gotta clean > up the back yard > some to make room for more! > > Have a good-un, > Greg > > > I wouln't need many large parts. However I am on the lookout for a good tailgate and I would like to get ahold of the rear taillight wiring harness. I want to make a trailer light adapter and I need the weather tight connection at the back of the bed for the tail lights. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 13:30:58 GMT Subject: Re: Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal >Here are all the Spicer part numbers.... > >SP 10-4-431-SX >SP 10-4-13 >SP 5-170X > >I think the last one is the U-joint itself, and the others are the yolks. You >have to cut the old one off the steering shaft and slide the new one on. The >other yoke mates directly with the splined shaft coming out of the >firewall.... A little more info I found when I did this recently ... the shop I took it to actually cut the yoke off of the shaft without cutting the shaft itself ... they found the shaft was splined under there, so really you could get 2 splined shafts and if you're careful cutting the old yoke off you could slip a splined portion on and either set it with the set screw or weld it on ... this may be delicate work though, so depending on skill level and amount of slip shaft left ... Also on the slip shaft, I'd worked it with a hammer a few times and got it to move a bit so that I felt it had enough slop and would get better if it needed it ... after it came back from the cutting it was great, lots of slip ... he said when they added the heat to cut the yoke off the bottom part just broke loose and it was great after that ... so you may be able to kill two birds with one stone in this replacement ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 11:06:19 -0700 From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Cab for sale "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" wrote: > > > I wouln't need many large parts. However I am on the lookout for a good > tailgate and I would like to get ahold of the rear taillight wiring harness. > I want to make a trailer light adapter and I need the weather tight > connection at the back of the bed for the tail lights. > > Tom H. Hey Tom, I'll look around and get back to ya. I think we do have a decent tailgate and should have the wire harness. I'll email ya off list. Later, Greg > > ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 15:04:51 GMT Subject: Re: OD in '78 >Efficiency is not affected one whitt by any of this except the >additional gears in the OD. And the efficiencies of the U-joints being spun at different speeds, and the efficiencies in the differential from the gears meshing and unmeshing faster or slower ... but okay, we can ignore efficiencies as they make the calculations much easier to work out ... > I was speaking "Weak Link" I guess :-) The >lower the rear end ratio (higher numerically) the more stress you put on the >axles and less on the drive shaft and transmission. > My contention is this is only applicable to acceleration and not steady state situations which is not usually a bad assumption for cruising and gas mileage calculations when the goal is maximization on the highway ... Things established to this point : efficiencies of gears/ujoints, etc, is ignored, no losses through the power transmission ... Same overall drive ratio ... Lets define a few terms here and take a peek at what's happening : Ti = torque supplied by the engine Rt = ratio of transmission's top gear Tdsi = torque the driveshaft sees on the input side Tdso = torque the driveshaft sees on the output side Rd = ratio of differential Tai = torque at the axle in Tao = torque at the axle out Following the torque path through the drivetrain (ignoring efficiencies) we get : Ti*Rt = Tdsi Tdsi = Tdso Tdso*Rd=Tai Tai=Tao We know that for all cases that Tao must remain constant for this comparison ... that means same truck, same tires, all that cool stuff ... So Ti*Rt*Rd=Tao right ? Since Rt*Rd is defined to be the same for both systems and Tao is a constant, that means Ti is the same for both as well. > The axles will have the > same torque applied at the wheels, yes but the portion of the > total torque > applied at the wheels will be higher in the axles with lower > gears What? you will have to define "total torque" here ... the torque from the motor ? The torque from the transmission ? I'm not familiar with the whole "total torque" concept or what exactly it is ... > and the > drive shaft will have less applied to it with lower gears. It won't have less torque applied because of the gears, it has less torque applied to it in the OD situation. We've already proved above that Ti is the same in both cases. Tdsi = Ti*Rt Rt<1 because its an OD, so Tdsi in the OD case is lower than Tdsi in the straight through situation... >> If your running the same overall ratio, the axle shafts will see the exact >> same torque whether it has 2.75 or 4.10 gears. Exactly, they have to see the same torque because they're solid pieces ... Tai = Tao in all situations where the axle doesn't fail. Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: OD in '78 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 09:14:31 -0700 This is the point in school where my eyes glazed over and my poor little brain started smoking... >Ti = torque supplied by the engine >Rt = ratio of transmission's top gear >Tdsi = torque the driveshaft sees on the input side >Tdso = torque the driveshaft sees on the output side >Rd = ratio of differential >Tai = torque at the axle in >Tao = torque at the axle out >Following the torque path through the drivetrain (ignoring efficiencies) we >get : >Ti*Rt = Tdsi >Tdsi = Tdso >Tdso*Rd=Tai >Tai=Tao >We know that for all cases that Tao must remain constant for this comparison >... that means same truck, same tires, all that cool stuff ... >So Ti*Rt*Rd=Tao right ? >Since Rt*Rd is defined to be the same for both systems and Tao is a constant, >that means Ti is the same for both as well. ------------------------------ From: "Alex Cook" <alexcook32 hotmail.com>
Subject: Coil spring paint... Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 17:03:04 GMT Hey list, Any quick suggestions on a good paint to cover coil springs? I was thinking epoxy paint, but will it crack? Thanks, A. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Coil spring paint... Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 10:12:34 -0700 Isn't there a special paint type to paint flexible bumpers and the like? Perhaps this would work (have no real clue admittedly)... -----Original Message----- From: Alex Cook [mailto:alexcook32 hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 10:03 AM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Coil spring paint... Hey list, Any quick suggestions on a good paint to cover coil springs? I was thinking epoxy paint, but will it crack? Thanks, A. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: Coil spring paint... Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:17:22 -0500 How about like a rubbery paint. I can't remember the name of it. It isn't cheap though. > Isn't there a special paint type to paint flexible bumpers and the like? > Perhaps this would work (have no real clue admittedly)... > > -----Original Message----- > From: Alex Cook [mailto:alexcook32 hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 10:03 AM > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] Coil spring paint... > > > Hey list, > Any quick suggestions on a good paint to cover coil springs? I was > thinking epoxy paint, but will it crack? Thanks, A. > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 10:21:47 -0700 From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Coil spring paint... >How about like a rubbery paint. I can't remember the name of it. It isn't .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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