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Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:26:18 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #308
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61-79-list Digest Mon, 23 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 308

In This Issue:
Re: cab and box swap
Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside
Re: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside
rear end leaks
At the shop
Re: NP205 Sleeve Kits
Re: At the shop
Re: cab and box swap
Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal
Re: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside
bed for '65 F100
Re: bed for '65 F100
tires!
Re: 400 fuel problem --Fixed!!
Re: Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal
Re: Cab and Bed swap
cab and box swap
Re: OD in '78
Re: Cab for sale
Re: Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal
Re: Cab for sale
Re: OD in '78
Re: OD in '78
Coil spring paint...
Re: Coil spring paint...
Re: Coil spring paint...
Re: Coil spring paint...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: cab and box swap
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 21:24:06 -0400

>
> and vin tags.. hmm yeah lets get pulled over with wrong vin tags :)
> i already took them off.. (still in truck cuz i still drive it, i broke my
> car and junked it) so from that i'm gonna have to do a sorta rush job
> how long you think it will take with say 3 guys or so?

GOOD POINT.  DONT FORGET THE VIN TAG!  I Swapped cabs on my 76 in Ohio years
ago, the junk yard refused to give me the vin tag with the cab.  I forgot to
remove the original vin tag from my old cab.  Since I just painted the
truck, (read no bumpers or trim re-installed yet) I put the license plate in
the rear window.  The next day my little brother borrowed my truck to go to
work and was pulled over by johny law.  Seems the licencse plate fell behind
the seat, the officer then looked for the vin tag. It wasn't there.  He took
my brother to jail why they "checked this out".  they impounded my truck for
2 weeks why they verified several serial #'s from the frame.  I was in the
Navy, on leave, and lived in VA.  The cop wanted a local phone # in Ohio.  I
gave him my wife's grandmother's phone number, he thought I was pulling his
leg because that was his grandmother's phone #.  Turns out he was my wifes
cousin!!!  He called the bone yard and they stated that they never give the
vin tag with a body and confirmed that I bought the cab from them.  Didn't
matter, they still had to impound my truck.  Little brother spent about 3
hrs in the clink.  He STILL has not forgiven me....

Rich


------------------------------

From: "Bertolin" <Bertolina Ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 18:34:51 -0700

Does anyone know where I can find the brackets for the original style rear
bumper that came with the 1965 F-100 styleside trucks? My truck has a
homemade diamond plate bumper on it and I would like to change it back to
the original chrome style. I've looked in several catalogs (Mac's, LMC,
Dennis Carpenter, Bob's, Obsolete, & Vintage) but all I can find is the
bumper not the bracket.  Thanks, Roberta with 1965 custom cab.


------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 21:35:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside

In a message dated 10/23/00 9:30:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Bertolina ford-trucks.com writes:

<< Does anyone know where I can find the brackets for the original style rear
bumper that came with the 1965 F-100 styleside trucks? My truck has a
homemade diamond plate bumper on it and I would like to change it back to
the original chrome style. I've looked in several catalogs (Mac's, LMC,
Dennis Carpenter, Bob's, Obsolete, & Vintage) but all I can find is the
bumper not the bracket.  Thanks, Roberta with 1965 custom cab.
 >>

I'm parting out my '65, I may have some laying around.  I'm pretty sure I
have some, cause we bought a parts truck too.  My brother-in-law is coming
over to help me get my stuff together, so I'll let you know for sure in the
next couple of days...if you're interested.  :o)


~Melissa
Marietta, GA
1965 F100 Custom Cab...sadly parting out.  :o(
1989 Bronco XLT
ICQ#84544993
Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line...
Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It.

------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: rear end leaks
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 20:38:34 -0500


Joe writes:  >>my 61 has  a leak from the rear end where the driveshaft
connects...is this a pretty straight forward job?? Just a seal??<<

Most likely just a seal and it is pretty basic and straight forward.  The
pinion bearing may be bad, but not necessarily..  Give it a try and let us
know how it turns out.



Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: At the shop
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 20:48:06 -0500


Tony writes:  >>.. Keep in mind  these are also the people who
helped me out with that 67-79 4x4 steering column universal fix
for our trucks that everybody has had problems with.<<

And my Son and I really appreciate that one.. His F350 4X4 steers
much better now.  Thanks to you.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 21:04:57 -0500
From: Stu Varner <nukegm ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: NP205 Sleeve Kits

At 07:14 PM 10/22/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey Rich!
>
>Why not just buy new yolks?   They aren't that expensive and are still
>available through dana/spicer dealer.
>
>The guys I ALWAYS go to with any of my needs is Sam Winer Motors.  they
>rebuilt my transfer case entirely (new yolks, input/output shafts, bearings
>countershaft gears, etc) about a year ago, and it's just gorgeous...  Very
>good people and good prices.

I will admit, when I saw the outward appearance of the t-case they built, I
was very very impressed!
Toniomarino is right!  Fabulous work!

Football is over and I once again have a life at home in the evenings with
the list again!  Glad to be back.

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm  (for sale!!! AND going cheaper every day!)

------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: At the shop
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 22:06:30 -0400

Wish I was on this list when this info was put out.  I bought the steering
shaft for my 76 4x4 from ford dealer in West by God (for the un-informed,
that's West Virginia).  I think i could buy another 76 parts truck for what
I paid for that :)

Rich
>
> Tony writes:  >>.. Keep in mind  these are also the people who
> helped me out with that 67-79 4x4 steering column universal fix
> for our trucks that everybody has had problems with.<<
>
> And my Son and I really appreciate that one.. His F350 4X4 steers
> much better now.  Thanks to you.
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.



------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 22:06:05 EDT
Subject: Re: cab and box swap

I swapped a 1974 F250 4x4 cab onto a 1979 F-350 4x4 frame about a year ago.
The rear most hole for the cab (behind the seat) had to moved inboard.  The
good thing about a FORD is that all "dimples" are there to mark the hole
location.  They look like dents in the sheetmetal, but are for "Optional" or
"Change Parts".  They even had the dimples in the radiator support, when I
added factory Air Conditioning to my 1979 Crewcab.  Like everybody has
said.....Take your time.....and check everything twice before you lift the
body.  Good luck!!!   Wayne Grabley  (Clifton, NJ)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 22:16:06 -0400
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal

It costs $45 bucks for the two yokes, and the GREASABLE universal to chop
the old one off the shaft and weld the new one on.. Takes literally about a
1/2 hour to an hour to do.   Hey, maybe I should start doing this repair
for people?  ;-)

Actually, if somebody could be as so kind to post those spicer part numbers
ONCE AGAIN to the list, I  would greatly apprecaite it so I don't have
to  go digging it up again... I have to do this to my '76 here soon, and
I'll finally write up a stupid tech artical on how to do it so we can just
point newbies and people who need it done to the tech section... 8-)

Oh shoot- guess what I just found:
----------------------------------
Here are all the Spicer part numbers....

SP 10-4-431-SX
SP 10-4-13
SP 5-170X

I think the last one is the U-joint itself, and the others are the yolks. You
have to cut the old one off the steering shaft and slide the new one on. The
other yoke mates directly with the splined shaft coming out of the
firewall....
------------------------------------

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com



At 22:06 10/24/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>Wish I was on this list when this info was put out.  I bought the steering
>shaft for my 76 4x4 from ford dealer in West by God (for the un-informed,
>that's West Virginia).  I think i could buy another 76 parts truck for what
>I paid for that :)
>
>Rich
> >
> > Tony writes:  >>.. Keep in mind  these are also the people who
> > helped me out with that 67-79 4x4 steering column universal fix
> > for our trucks that everybody has had problems with.<<
> >
> > And my Son and I really appreciate that one.. His F350 4X4 steers
> > much better now.  Thanks to you.
> >
> > Azie Magnusson
> > Ardmore, Al.
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Bertolin" <Bertolina Ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 19:27:30 -0700

Melissa, I am very interested if it's the original style bumper you have.
Thanks!  Roberta

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of EffieFrd aol.com
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 6:36 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Rear bumper brackets for a '65 styleside
>
>
> In a message dated 10/23/00 9:30:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Bertolina ford-trucks.com writes:
>
> << Does anyone know where I can find the brackets for the
> original style rear
>  bumper that came with the 1965 F-100 styleside trucks? My truck has a
>  homemade diamond plate bumper on it and I would like to change it back to
>  the original chrome style. I've looked in several catalogs (Mac's, LMC,
>  Dennis Carpenter, Bob's, Obsolete, & Vintage) but all I can find is the
>  bumper not the bracket.  Thanks, Roberta with 1965 custom cab.
>   >>
>
> I'm parting out my '65, I may have some laying around.  I'm pretty sure I
> have some, cause we bought a parts truck too.  My brother-in-law
> is coming
> over to help me get my stuff together, so I'll let you know for
> sure in the
> next couple of days...if you're interested.  :o)
>
>
> ~Melissa
> Marietta, GA
> 1965 F100 Custom Cab...sadly parting out.  :o(
> 1989 Bronco XLT
> ICQ#84544993
> Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line...
> Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It.
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: Dlkiehl aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 22:59:51 EDT
Subject: bed for '65 F100

I'm looking for a bed, or repair panels, for my '65 F-100.  The floor of the
bed is rusted through at the front edge where it meets the vertical cross
panel.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Darryl Kiehl
Atlanta

------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 23:11:45 EDT
Subject: Re: bed for '65 F100

In a message dated 10/23/00 11:01:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Dlkiehl aol.com writes:

<< I'm looking for a bed, or repair panels, for my '65 F-100.  The floor of
the
bed is rusted through at the front edge where it meets the vertical cross
panel.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 >>

i have a bed, and i'm in marietta.   last time i checked it was in ok shape,
it may or may not need a new floor.   i'm no expert.  its a shortbed
styleside...custom cab, so it has holes for the chrome....and i have the
chrome and clips.  give me a holler if you're interested.

~Mel
Marietta, GA
1965 F100 Custom Cab...sadly parting out.  :o(
1989 Bronco XLT
ICQ#84544993
Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line...
Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It.

------------------------------

From: "Don Jones" <twistedhand hotmail.com>
Subject: tires!
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 04:52:26 GMT

Looks like I am going to have to go shopping for tires.
I am running some old 7.50 -17 retreads and had one  throw a  *big* chunk of
tread  on the highway this weekend.
i'm not too sure of what the chances of getting a pair of bias tires in this
size are, so i guess i may be shopping for a full set.
I've got a set of 16.5 rims in good shape that i may use, depending on what
i can get for tires.
Arent 16.5's  usually a low profile tire?

I have a funky set of 17" rims on my parts truck.  They look like a one
piece rim , but they split in the centre and dont have a locking ring. Made
by firestone.

I took one in to get the old tire  taken off. the guy there couldnt get the
tire off. Then  an old retired mechanic came in and showed him how to get it
apart. He said he hadnt seen a set of those in 40 years.  He went on to say
that he wouldnt mount a set of tires on them because they are too dangerous
to work on.

Don Jones
1970 f-250 4x4 ~Fordzilllla~


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 23:18:19 -0700
From: mclough page.az.net (Michael Clough)
Subject: Re: 400 fuel problem --Fixed!!

Hello all,

I recently posted about a fuel problem that has been occurring with my
400. I remembered a technique to find the problem and thought I might
share it. It involves temporarily installing a short piece of clear
vinyl hose inline between the fuel pump and metal line going to the
tank. Then you check it for bubbles and if you see any then search for a
hole or air leak. This test showed me bubbles and so I then replaced the
rubber fuel line between the tank and the metal line running up the
frame. What a pain!! It had a tiny slit in it which was letting in air.
Now I have no more troubles.  Just don't forget to remove the vinyl hose
as it will not last too long. I picked up the trailer from the Kaibab
Forest this evening and I towed it home with no problems. Now I don't
know what I am going to do with the new fuel pump that I ordered. I
guess it will go behind the seat to save the day some other time. Thanks
for the input, mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 05:56:54 -0700
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal



Tony Marino wrote:

> It costs $45 bucks for the two yokes, and the GREASABLE universal to chop
> the old one off the shaft and weld the new one on.. Takes literally about a
> 1/2 hour to an hour to do.   Hey, maybe I should start doing this repair
> for people?  ;-)
>

A word of caution for anyone assembling this: The '77 F100 I recently bought had
a homemade shaft which was built by the not-so-mechanically-inclined PO. Somehow
he managed to warp the yokes either when he pressed the u-joint into the yoke or
when he welded (bubble-gummed) the yoke to the *galvanized* pipe. There was also
no slip joint which is a no-no IMO. Anyways, I had to brace my feet and pull the
wheel with both hands to move this truck around the driveway.

Greg


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 07:00:27 -0500
From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: Cab and Bed swap

> do you plan on painting the frame and the whole nine yards?  Being
> the quick job and everything goes right ( which it never does) and
> you don't need any other parts ( which you might) it could be done in
> a couple of days.  Getting both cabs ready to remove might take you a
> whole day and figure 2 for putting one back together enough to drive.
> That is with 3 sober friends actually working.
>

Well, this is coming from experience, I have done 3 of them.  The first was a frame
swap.  There was 2 of us and a chain hoist.  I swapped a F-250 4x4 frame into a F-150
Supercab.  I did this swap (including taking the motor and gas tank out of the 2wd frame
and placing it in the 4wd frame.  It took about 12 hours, from when I drove the 2wd in
the garage and drove the 4wd out.

The second swap I did was a cab and clip by myself.  I stripped everything off of the
bad cab, cut the old body mounts, rolled the cab off of the frame into the yard, and
pulled the truck under the cab that was hanging from a chain hoist.  Total time was
about 36 hours, but I cleaned the frame once the cab and clip was off, and painted it.

The 3rd one was done last weekend.  The body was pulled off the weekend before, by way
of torch and fork lift.  The good body was placed on the frame by 2 people and a chain
lift.  Then everything was hooked up and was running in about 6 hours.

A couple of tips for you.  Don't bother trying to save the body mounts.   Torch them.  4
people will be allright for the cab, but it will take more than 4 to move the bed.  The
body mount bolts used in the front clip and cab are 7/16-14.  Make sure you have the new
mounts.  I would not bother swapping the master cylinder right away.  just pull it from
the F-250 booster and let it hang.  Let me tell you that the F-250 and 350 are a pain to
bleed the brakes.  Think thru all of the thing that could go wrong and plan for it.

Good luck
Steve S.
76 F-350 Crew cab
77 F-250 Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 07:51:55 -0500
From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: cab and box swap

Here's a few tips for the cab swap:

I had the cab off the frame, installed new cab mounts, patched some holes
in the floor, painted the frame and cab bottom, then re-installed. It took
me three weekends (and I thought I was doing real well). I agree with
whoever said "take your worst case estimate and double it".

Here's a trick that seemed to work well. We (me and four friends) took the
cab off the frame using an engine hoist (cherry picker). We tied a few
wraps of rope around the roof through the door openings near the front,
extended the cherry picker to its full extension, lifted the cab by the
rope, and voila. I also had the 4 friends positioned at the corners of the
cab to steady it (and one person on the hoist). Actually, I couldn't get
the floor shift lever off, so this setup actually lifted the cab high
enough to clear the floor shifter! BTW, the doors and the front clip were off.

I found that an easy way to degrease and paint the frame was to use the
purple liquid degreaser available at auto parts stores and a pressure
washer. Spray down the frame with the degreaser, let it sit for an hour
(light scraping at the thick parts), then hose it down with the pressure
washer. Repeat. Treat with metal prep, then POR-15 semigloss black (one
part moisture curing urethane). Couln't be easier. Extremely professional
results. Will last forever.

Doss Halsey

'67 F250 Camper Special
'68 F250 Camper Special
'72 F250 Camper Special



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: OD in '78
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 08:32:54 -0700

No, no, no......I was talking strictly stress on the parts, not efficiency
:-)  Efficiency is not affected one whitt by any of this except the
additional gears in the OD.  I was speaking "Weak Link" I guess :-)  The
lower the rear end ratio (higher numerically) the more stress you put on the
axles and less on the drive shaft and transmission.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> > yes but the portion of the total torque
> >applied at the wheels will be higher in the axles with lower gears
>
> Uhm ... not sure exactly what you mean here ... you mean the amount of
torque
> lost in the differential will be less with the lower gears ?  Are we


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Cab for sale
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 06:51:25 -0700


>
>
> "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > What a coincidence.  I'm just outside of Portland.  Truck
> wouldn't happen to
> > be in Buxton would it?
> >
> > Tom H.
>
> Nope ... Westbrook. If you're interested in parts b4 I bring
> the truck here,
> I'll get ya connected with my buddy/partner Jimbo. He's right
> next door in
> Gorham. I'm about 65 miles north of there in Sumner.
>
> BTW, we've also got 2 other trucks for parts ... '77 crewcab
> w/no cab (Jimbo's
> using that one) and a '77 supercab (cab very rusty). Both
> 2WD. No beds (the only
> good one is MINE!). Maybe some hoods and fenders in good
> shape (depends on what
> I wanna keep for spares). And we have all kindsa glass. I'll
> be listing allot of
> stuff on my website w/photos in the near future. Gotta clean
> up the back yard
> some to make room for more!
>
> Have a good-un,
> Greg
>
> >

I wouln't need many large parts.  However I am on the lookout for a good
tailgate and I would like to get ahold of the rear taillight wiring harness.
I want to make a trailer light adapter and I need the weather tight
connection at the back of the bed for the tail lights.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 13:30:58 GMT
Subject: Re: Steering Shaft Part Numbers For Upper Universal

>Here are all the Spicer part numbers....
>
>SP 10-4-431-SX
>SP 10-4-13
>SP 5-170X
>
>I think the last one is the U-joint itself, and the others are the yolks. You

>have to cut the old one off the steering shaft and slide the new one on. The

>other yoke mates directly with the splined shaft coming out of the
>firewall....


A little more info I found when I did this recently ... the shop I took it to
actually cut the yoke off of the shaft without cutting the shaft itself ...
they found the shaft was splined under there, so really you could get 2 splined
shafts and if you're careful cutting the old yoke off you could slip a splined
portion on and either set it with the set screw or weld it on ... this may be
delicate work though, so depending on skill level and amount of slip shaft left
...

Also on the slip shaft, I'd worked it with a hammer a few times and got it to
move a bit so that I felt it had enough slop and would get better if it needed
it ... after it came back from the cutting it was great, lots of slip ... he
said when they added the heat to cut the yoke off the bottom part just broke
loose and it was great after that ... so you may be able to kill two birds with
one stone in this replacement ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 11:06:19 -0700
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Cab for sale



"Hogan, Tom (Portland)" wrote:

>
>
> I wouln't need many large parts.  However I am on the lookout for a good
> tailgate and I would like to get ahold of the rear taillight wiring harness.
> I want to make a trailer light adapter and I need the weather tight
> connection at the back of the bed for the tail lights.
>
> Tom H.

Hey Tom,
I'll look around and get back to ya. I think we do have a decent tailgate and
should have the wire harness. I'll email ya off list.

Later,
Greg

>
>


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 15:04:51 GMT
Subject: Re: OD in '78

>Efficiency is not affected one whitt by any of this except the
>additional gears in the OD.

And the efficiencies of the U-joints being spun at different speeds, and the
efficiencies in the differential from the gears meshing and unmeshing faster
or slower ... but okay, we can ignore efficiencies as they make the calculations
much easier to work out ...

>  I was speaking "Weak Link" I guess :-)  The
>lower the rear end ratio (higher numerically) the more stress you put on the

>axles and less on the drive shaft and transmission.
>

My contention is this is only applicable to acceleration and not steady state
situations which is not usually a bad assumption for cruising and gas mileage
calculations when the goal is maximization on the highway ...

Things established to this point :

efficiencies of gears/ujoints, etc, is ignored, no losses through the power
transmission ...

Same overall drive ratio ...
Lets define a few terms here and take a peek at what's happening :

Ti = torque supplied by the engine
Rt = ratio of transmission's top gear
Tdsi = torque the driveshaft sees on the input side
Tdso = torque the driveshaft sees on the output side
Rd = ratio of differential
Tai = torque at the axle in
Tao = torque at the axle out

Following the torque path through the drivetrain (ignoring efficiencies) we
get :

Ti*Rt = Tdsi
Tdsi = Tdso
Tdso*Rd=Tai
Tai=Tao

We know that for all cases that Tao must remain constant for this comparison
... that means same truck, same tires, all that cool stuff ...

So Ti*Rt*Rd=Tao   right ?

Since Rt*Rd is defined to be the same for both systems and Tao is a constant,
that means Ti is the same for both as well.

> The axles will have the
> same torque applied at the wheels, yes but the portion of the
> total torque
> applied at the wheels will be higher in the axles with lower
> gears

What?  you will have to define "total torque" here ... the torque from the motor
?  The torque from the transmission ?  I'm not familiar with the whole "total
torque" concept or what exactly it is ...

> and the
> drive shaft will have less applied to it with lower gears.

It won't have less torque applied because of the gears, it has less torque applied
to it in the OD situation.  We've already proved above that Ti is the same in
both cases.
Tdsi = Ti*Rt

Rt<1 because its an OD, so Tdsi in the OD case is lower than Tdsi in the straight
through situation...

>> If your running the same overall ratio, the axle shafts will see the exact

>> same torque whether it has 2.75 or 4.10 gears.

Exactly, they have to see the same torque because they're solid pieces ... Tai
= Tao in all situations where the axle doesn't fail.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: OD in '78
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 09:14:31 -0700

This is the point in school where my eyes glazed over and my poor little
brain started smoking...

>Ti = torque supplied by the engine
>Rt = ratio of transmission's top gear
>Tdsi = torque the driveshaft sees on the input side
>Tdso = torque the driveshaft sees on the output side
>Rd = ratio of differential
>Tai = torque at the axle in
>Tao = torque at the axle out

>Following the torque path through the drivetrain (ignoring efficiencies) we
>get :

>Ti*Rt = Tdsi
>Tdsi = Tdso
>Tdso*Rd=Tai
>Tai=Tao

>We know that for all cases that Tao must remain constant for this
comparison
>... that means same truck, same tires, all that cool stuff ...

>So Ti*Rt*Rd=Tao   right ?

>Since Rt*Rd is defined to be the same for both systems and Tao is a
constant,
>that means Ti is the same for both as well.


------------------------------

From: "Alex Cook" <alexcook32 hotmail.com>
Subject: Coil spring paint...
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 17:03:04 GMT

Hey list,
  Any quick suggestions on a good paint to cover coil springs?  I was
thinking epoxy paint, but will it crack? Thanks, A.
_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Coil spring paint...
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 10:12:34 -0700

Isn't there a special paint type to paint flexible bumpers and the like?
Perhaps this would work (have no real clue admittedly)...

-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Cook [mailto:alexcook32 hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 10:03 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Coil spring paint...


Hey list,
  Any quick suggestions on a good paint to cover coil springs?  I was
thinking epoxy paint, but will it crack? Thanks, A.
_________________________________________________________________________
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Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
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Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: Coil spring paint...
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:17:22 -0500

How about like a rubbery paint.  I can't remember the name of it.  It isn't
cheap though.

> Isn't there a special paint type to paint flexible bumpers and the like?
> Perhaps this would work (have no real clue admittedly)...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex Cook [mailto:alexcook32 hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 10:03 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] Coil spring paint...
>
>
> Hey list,
>    Any quick suggestions on a good paint to cover coil springs?  I was
> thinking epoxy paint, but will it crack? Thanks, A.
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.
>
> Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com.
>
> =============================================================
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>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 10:21:47 -0700
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Coil spring paint...

>How about like a rubbery paint.  I can't remember the name of it.  It isn't ....


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