Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 18 Oct 2000 13:04:31 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 13:04:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #299
Precedence: list

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck  Mailing  List

Visit our  web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject  of  the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Tue, 17 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 299

In This Issue:
Re: Bench testing starter
grinding in the transfer case?
Re: Bench testing starter
Re: Starter Solenoid
Re: Found a 1979 F250 crewcab 4x4
Pilot hole in 460 crank
Helpful hints
Re: Helpful hints
fuel pump fixed...  NEW:  Lifters Ticking?
Re: Helpful hints
Re: Bench testing starter
460 replaces 351M
Re: 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?
Flywheel balance
Re: Starter Solenoid
Relay chatter
Computers
Weights of engines
Re: 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?
Re: 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?
Re: 460 replaces 351M
Re: Computers
Re: fuel pump fixed...  NEW:  Lifters Ticking?
Re: fuel pump fixed...  NEW:  Lifters Ticking?
Re: Computers
Re: Bench testing starter
Bed floor material
Re: Bed mounts
Re: Helpful hints
Re: Helpful hints
Re: Computers
Re: couple of little FE top end assembly tricks

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:18:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Bench testing starter

In a message dated 10/17/2000 6:32:14 AM GMT Daylight Time, TBeeee aol.com
writes:

<< sn't it usually recommended that when attaching cables to make the ground
connection on the load side is the last connection?  I do this when jumping
vehicles and I find it also works to keep arching to a minimal when
"jumping"
starters.  Am I all wet on this or what? >>


Thats the way I always done it.  Seems to work well

------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: grinding in the transfer case?
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:34:09 -0400

I didn't realize it at first, but I was in 4H this afternoon and noticed a
very uncomforting sound coming from right underneath my feet.  At first I
thought something was wrong with my clutch, but after putting it back in 2H,
all was well.  There was a bunch of clinging/clanking and grinding, sounding
like I was over-revving or something.  I don't know much about the inner
workings of a Transfer case  (NP 205), but could it be as simple as the
fluid being low?  Thought I'd ask the list before I went ahead and tackled
the problem.

Thanks!

-bob-


------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:38:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Bench testing starter

I should be true to my elders and state that I was always taught growing up
to attach a solenoid!  My dad was adamant that some of the old starters
wouldn't work without one.  I never observed that to be the case, but the
solenoid trick does eliminate the potential to fry the copper threads!

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://homwtoen.aol.com/tbeeee

Jason Wrote:

> Thom, I agree. In a situation like this, I always connected the ground on
>  the load last. I was taught that it was wise to keep sparks and flame away
>  from the battery.

------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:44:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Starter Solenoid

In a message dated 10/17/2000 7:02:34 PM GMT Daylight Time,
puffknit hotmail.com writes:

<< The starter solenoid chatters when I try to start
it.  I replaced it, but it still chatters.  Is it maybe a bad solenoid?
What else can I check/do myself before I have to take it to a mechanic? >>


Had the same problem and mine ended up being a bad ground on the solenoid.
Quick is to run a jump wire from mount bolt of soloniod to ground of batt.
(Can't get a better ground.)

------------------------------

From: "Radoje Spasojevic" <rspasoje mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Found a 1979 F250 crewcab 4x4
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:07:22 -0700

I'm only 2.5 hours south of B.C., and I happen to have a '76 F-250 Crew Cab,
so I would be VERY interested in any info you could send my way.
Thanks,

Radoje Spasojevic
"Nerves of Steel, Brains of Chipmunk"
'90XLT-351W-AOD-BW1356-Dana44-Ford8.8(Lockright)-3.55
'83Custom-300-Clark4spd-NP208-Dana44-Ford8.8"-3.08
'76F-250 Crew Cab-390FE-NP435-NP205-Dana 60-Dana 60-4.10
'87Eddie Bauer-No engine-No tranny-No t-case-No axles-No front clip
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org
--Rubicon tested--
**********************************
-----Original Message-----
From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com <FORDTRKNUT aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 3:55 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Found a 1979 F250 crewcab 4x4


>Hello, Gals & Guys!!  I found a 1979 F250 4x4 Crewcab on the net.  The
truck
>is sitting in a junkyard in British Columbia.  I live in New Jersey and it
>would be way to much traveling to get it.  I asked the guy if I could give
>his E-mail address out, and I will post if he lets me.  I know someone was
>looking for a frame, but this thing is semi complete.  He sent me 3
pictures
>over the net, and if you want them I will forward them to you.  Thanks &
take
>care!!  Wayne Grabley
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Pilot hole in 460 crank
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:52:45 -0500


Bob writes: >>Is there a chance that it won't swap, because of the
> lack of a pilot bearing releif in the rear of the crankshaft?  <<

Never saw a Ford crank that did not have the proper cutout(or whatever you call it)
for either the automatics torque converter bulge, or the pilot bearing for a standard
tranny..  Seen it in GM and MOPAR, but never in a Ford.
Not saying Ford didn't do it on some engines sometime in its history, I just never
saw one of them..And I've converted several form auto to std and vise versa..Most
were FE's, but a few have been 385's(429/460).

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Helpful hints
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:53:03 -0500


Ken!

Couldn't the list create a space on the homepage something like "helpful hints", or
(name it whatever you will) for those ideas that have appeared within the last couple
of days such as the vacuum bleeding of brakes, and the home made radiator pressure
tester, or the methodology of identifing a blown headgasket(which cylinder)..  These
are great ideas that I want to have stored away for later reference...

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:57:18 -0600
From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Helpful hints

I would 2nd that.

"Azie L. Magnusson" wrote:

> Ken!
>
> Couldn't the list create a space on the homepage something like "helpful hints", or
> (name it whatever you will) for those ideas that have appeared within the last couple
> of days such as the vacuum bleeding of brakes, and the home made radiator pressure
> tester, or the methodology of identifing a blown headgasket(which cylinder)..  These
> are great ideas that I want to have stored away for later reference...
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: fuel pump fixed...  NEW:  Lifters Ticking?
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 22:26:13 -0400

amazing what a new fuel pump can do when you have two bad ones...  I now
know more than I thought I ever would about the fuel system on my truck
though... down to where ever single clamp is!

Trucks getting the fuel it needs, but now the lifters seem to be knocking.
A light chatter has appeared on top of the engine.  BOTH sides.  I'm going
to flush the engine, change the oil and see if this helps.  The engine was
running OH SO NICE before my little fuel line issues.  Any other things I
should check/do?

endlessly tinkering,

-bob-


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 22:28:30 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Helpful hints

At 09:53 PM 10/17/00, you wrote:

>Ken!
>
>Couldn't the list create a space on the homepage something like "helpful hints", or
>(name it whatever you will) for those ideas that have appeared within the last couple
>of days such as the vacuum bleeding of brakes, and the home made radiator pressure
>tester, or the methodology of identifing a blown headgasket(which cylinder)..  These
>are great ideas that I want to have stored away for later reference...
>
>Azie Magnusson
>Ardmore, Al.

Yes it could be done.  But who would maintain this daily list?  It
would be a lot of work.

Ken



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Bench testing starter
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 22:27:01 -0700

Ok, gang the reason you put the ground on last is (as John said) due to the
battery's tendency to self destruct when under heavy use and sparks suddenly
come near the vent holes......That's the ONLY reason you are told to do this
and it's not to the battery itself which does no good whatsoever, it's to a
grounded area of the body work or frame.......AWAY FROM THE BATTERY.  With a
battery sitting on the bench there is no other place to attach the cable
except to the terminals but the rule still applies, the battery should not
have connections made to it directly when there is any possibility of a load
being present such is when testing a starter......this is dangerous!  If you
have ever seen the face of a person who has made this mistake you would not
ever consider doing it again, trust me :-(  BTW, touching a dead battery
with a good battery produces a fairly decent load and the connection which
is made last will spark even with everything turned off.  The potential in
the dead battery is lower than the good one and current will flow to it
which is why this rule is stressed so much when "Jumping" a dead battery.

At the starter it makes no difference which one you press to the starter
last but I've found that clamping the cable to the terminal generally does
not allow enough of a conection to operate the starter at full capacity and
it definitely burns the snot out of the threads on the terminal but.......if
you put the nut on flush it burns the snot out of the nut surface, not the
threads so you can still put it back together when you are done.  OTOH, it
doesn't matter if you burn the housing with a bad or inadequate connection.

I worked at the Ypsi starter factory for 36 years.......guess how they test
starters on the assembly line repair bench?? (where they pile up pretty fast
if you slack off) :-)   The bench was the ground.  If you notice, the
diameter at the end of the terminal bolt is reduced for about 1/8-1/4" for
this very reason, you can do a lot of damage before the nut won't thread
back on :-)  This terminal bolt is also made of copper which is very hard to
damage this way, much less than steel.

In Welding you have two polarities in DC mode.  One heats up the electrode
the other heats up the material you are welding so depending on what effect
you are trying to achieve you use one or the other.  When attaching an
electric cable, the time involved in making the connection doesn't allow
much heat to develope either way IF......you do it quicly and firmly.

Do it the way you want but be aware of the reasons behind the hype before
making your decision.  We all have reasoning ability.  Stop and analyze what
is happening and I think you will see what I mean :-)

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Naw!!!  Connect the one end of the pos(red clamp) to the terminal of the
starter
> (like Gary says, with the nut on it flush with the end of the stud), and
then very
> firmly make contact with the positive post(or lead) with the other ends
red clamp...
> The arching usually occurs when making/breaking the connection, so it is
less likely
> to damage anything if the momentary contact is made at the source(battery
or charger)..


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 460 replaces 351M
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:38:30 -0500


OK Guys/Gals!!!  Here is the way My Son and I did it and it works for us:

460 in lieu of 351M with NP435/married NP205 in a '79 F350 4X4....

We used only one spacer(or whatever that sheetmetal thing is called between engine
and bellhousing)..

We used a 390/360 FE flyeheel(Zero balanced same as 460) but we did have it balance
checked to be sure. Any FE flywheel EXCEPT the 410/428 will work.

We used the 351M bellhousing/clutch/pressure plate.

We used the 351M starter. We are, however, going to try and locate a 4 pole 460
starter and try it. Gary says it will do a much better job, and I admit that it strains
quite a bit when it is street hot and you try to start it back up after 5-15 minutes..

The 460 originally had a C6 behind it.  The pilotshaft bushing(bearing) I think was
for a 390, but I'm not sure of this!!!

We notched the frame on passenger side and used the early car manifold.  I know
better, but could not locate a truck/van manifold...

We fabricated our own A/C and PS brackets and used an old bracket laying in my shop
for the alternator...  Don't have a clue where it came from..

Bought L&L motor mounts..  They aren't the best looking things for strength/longevity, but
they are still holding it in place and it has been about 1.5 years now.  The truck hasn't seen
anyreally abusive treatment as of yet(my Son is really fairly particular about me driving it)..

I think I covered it all
It is currently working if anyone wants to come drive it..(I'll go along just to make
sure it gets returned to the correct stable)....

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 22:43:06 -0400

> If I've got a 351M/C6 and can swap in a 460 and it will bolt right
> up.  Then why can't I swap a 460 into a NP435 truck since the
> bolt-pattern on the NP435 bell-housing will be identical to the
> bolt-pattern on the integrated C6's bell-housing.

The NP 435 = 4 speed manual
The C6= automatic
You would need to change out the flex plate for a flywheel, pilot
bushing, and clutch assembly in order to put the NP435 in place
of the C6.



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Flywheel balance
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:42:35 -0500


Josh writes:  >>I have never physically tried to bolt a 351M
flywheel to a 460 but I have been told it won't work...are 351M/400's
internally balanced?<<

The 351M/400 flywheel has a different flywheel to crank bolt pattern..  That is
why it won't work.  I don't know about the balance, but I tried to bolt one up.. That
is how I know it won't work..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: Starter Solenoid
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 22:47:59 -0400

> My '65 F-100 won't start.  The starter solenoid chatters
> when I try to start it.  I replaced it, but it still chatters.  Is
> it maybe a bad solenoid?

Sounds like your battery might need to be charged or replaced,
or clean the corrosion out of the terminals and connectors between
the battery and the solenoid.



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Relay chatter
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:45:03 -0500


Mary writes: >>My '65 F-100 won't start.  The starter solenoid chatters when I try to start
it.  I replaced it, but it still chatters.  Is it maybe a bad solenoid?
What else can I check/do myself before I have to take it to a mechanic?<<

Most likely a dead(nearly) battery.  Could be corroded terminals, bad ground, loose
connections, and several other things, but most likely a dead battery...

Good luck

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Computers
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:47:55 -0500


John writes:  >>. The problem with computers is that they do
exactly what you tell them whether that's what you wanted or not. <<

Not at all unlike my wife..... Yah !!! Yah...Yah???

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Weights of engines
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:54:59 -0500


George S. writes:  >>)  The original post was
comparing the weight of a 351C and a 460.  I (and several others) pointed
out that a 351M/400 would weigh more that the 351C, by about 25 lbs.  With
the weight difference originally quoted of 550 lbs-351C, 640 lbs-460, this
would make a significant difference in the original difference of 90
lbs(more than 25%.)<<

Been keeping up with this thread, and not commenting up to now, but I've got
both a 351M and a 400 crank out of blocks and on my workbench right
this minute and I believe the 400 crank is at least 25# heavier than the 351M..

Notice I said "I think"..  I may just weigh them tomorrow and then I'll know for
sure..  I also have a 351C, crank but it is still in the block, so I'm not going there..

I also think the 351M/400 block will outweigh the 351C because of the deck
height increase...  If I ever get time, I'll make that comparison also...
Man.... retirement is so busy..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 23:14:54 EDT
Subject: Re: 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?

In a message dated 10/17/00 10:11:18 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
burgess4 gte.net writes:

<< As long as they have the same balance (internal vs external )
and you get the right clutch for the flywheel holes.

I'm running a 352 flywheel on my 460 , currently . >>

Im using a 390 flywheel with a 400 clutch. Works great, positively no chatter.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 23:16:54 EDT
Subject: Re: 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?

In a message dated 10/17/00 10:19:10 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Josh.Nichols svseeds.com writes:

<< I have never physically tried to bolt a 351M
flywheel to a 460 but I have been told it won't work...are 351M/400's >

I looked at it, the bolt circle on the 351m/400 is smaller than the FE/385

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 23:29:20 EDT
Subject: Re: 460 replaces 351M

In a message dated 10/17/00 7:43:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
maggie11 HiWAAY.net writes:

<< We used the 351M starter. We are, however, going to try and locate a 4
pole 460
starter and try it. Gary says it will do a much better job, and I admit that
it strains
quite a bit when it is street hot and you try to start it back up after 5-15
minutes..
 >>

I started out with my 460 starter, but went to a 400 style do to the fact
that the solenoids kept coming apart on the 460 style.  The 400 starter has
no problems with my setup, but It remains to be seen how it will work with a
new motor, and not the old worn out one.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 23:32:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Computers

In a message dated 10/17/00 7:52:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
maggie11 HiWAAY.net writes:

<< Not at all unlike my wife..... Yah !!! Yah...Yah???

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al. >>

Oh Azie!!!!!!!!!!!

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 00:22:56 EDT
Subject: Re: fuel pump fixed...  NEW:  Lifters Ticking?

In a message dated 10/17/00 7:26:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
xavetarx home.com writes:

<< Trucks getting the fuel it needs, but now the lifters seem to be knocking.
A light chatter has appeared on top of the engine.  BOTH sides.  I'm going
to flush the engine, change the oil and see if this helps.  The engine was
running OH SO NICE before my little fuel line issues.  Any other things I
should check/do?
 >>
Did you post a few days ago and say the oil smelled of gasoline?  Anyway, a
bad fuel pump could dilute your oil and certainly make the lifters rattle.  I
think you are doing the right thing, and the new oil will quite things down.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: fuel pump fixed...  NEW:  Lifters Ticking?
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 06:28:47 -0400

I wasn't the one that said this may be the problem (it was someone else) but
it makes sense to me.  Thanks for the encouragement that I'm on the right
path.


In a message dated 10/17/00 7:26:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
xavetarx home.com writes:

<< Trucks getting the fuel it needs, but now the lifters seem to be
knocking.
A light chatter has appeared on top of the engine.  BOTH sides.  I'm going
to flush the engine, change the oil and see if this helps.  The engine was
running OH SO NICE before my little fuel line issues.  Any other things I
should check/do?
 >>
Did you post a few days ago and say the oil smelled of gasoline?  Anyway, a
bad fuel pump could dilute your oil and certainly make the lifters rattle.
I
think you are doing the right thing, and the new oil will quite things down.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:21:27 -0400
From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Re: Computers

Your wife does what you tell her to??????? Lucky guy! Speaking of computers,
what year were they first installed in the F series? And, what year was the
emissions stuff installed (outside of CA)?

Thanks,
Virgil

> Not at all unlike my wife..... Yah !!! Yah...Yah???
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:53:35 -0700
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Bench testing starter



Gary wrote:

>
> being present such is when testing a starter......this is dangerous!  If you
> have ever seen the face of a person who has made this mistake you would not
> ever consider doing it again, trust me :-(
>

Yep, I have seen this. A guy boosting a car ... the battery exploded with the
last connection. There was no damage to his skin, but his eyes got blasted with
eletrolyte. We quickly flushed his eyes (while two of us held him down) with
water and he's alright. SEEING something like that happen really makes you stop
and think.

What I did to prevent this from happening to me: On the neg cable of my jumper
cables, I installed a batt disconnect switch about a foot from one end. A box
was built from 3/8 plywood to mount the switch in to prevent the studs from
accidently contacting the chassis. I also sealed all the joints of the box
w/silicone. With this setup there's no sparks when you're clamping up to another
batt, starter or whatever. There's no danger of sparks from the switch ... it's
sealed in the box. Switches cost about $40-$50 at Napa. Not much to spend to
save your eyes.

Gregster


------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: Bed floor material
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:01:30 -0500

<<<To equal a stock floor stiffness you would have to use 1/4" steel
plate.>>>
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 I just got through putting the 1/8" material in my bed. Seems pretty darn
stout to me. Weighs more then what I took out naturally, but sure seems up
to the job. It doesn't bow a bit between cross members. Doesn't look as good
with out the ribs, but the bed mat will hide that anyway.  Later, Phil (64
F-100)

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 12:45:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Bed mounts

>So what are the post 60 beds mounted with?
>

I know the beds like mine have some cross members that are a V shaped channel
that goes down to the chassis and is welded to the bottom of the bed ...

You might be able to find a body lift that uses poly or rubber and would work
just perfect for you (without lifting the bed), I know the neighbor has a Chubbie
that he was putting one on and it had some plastic doughnut things that were
supposed to hold the bed/cab up, those would probably do the trick for you too
and if used alone wouldn't provide much if any additional lift, or could be
trimmed to set at the right height ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: Helpful hints
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 10:13:56 -0500

Maybe if it wasn't daily.  But if we saw a helpfull hint and sent it to who
ever would update it.  So it wouldn't get updated everyday but when ever
there was a helpfull hint that was worth noting

> At 09:53 PM 10/17/00, you wrote:
>
> >Ken!
> >
> >Couldn't the list create a space on the homepage something like "helpful
hints", or
> >(name it whatever you will) for those ideas that have appeared within the
last couple
> >of days such as the vacuum bleeding of brakes, and the home made radiator
pressure
> >tester, or the methodology of identifing a blown headgasket(which
cylinder)..  These
> >are great ideas that I want to have stored away for later reference...
> >
> >Azie Magnusson
> >Ardmore, Al.
>
> Yes it could be done.  But who would maintain this daily list?  It
> would be a lot of work.
>
> Ken
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 10:17:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Computers
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Your wife does what you tell her to??????? Lucky guy!

This part I won't touch!!! The heck I won't. The dogs barely do what I
ask....

> Speaking of computers,
> what year were they first installed in the F series?

Either 1981 or 1987. It would be the same year they started with the
electronic feedback carb. On cars that was 1981. If it has a Check Engine
light, it has a computer.

>And, what year was the
> emissions stuff installed (outside of CA)?

The first emission control equipment was required for January 1, 1967. That
would be the AIR pumps. All they did was inject fresh air into the exhaust
stream. EGR, PCV, and EVAP (fuel vapor recovery) probably appeared right
about then, too. The first catalytic converters were required in 1975. There
is all sorts of emission stuff in between and beyond.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:33:23 -0700
From: Keith Srb <herbie ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Helpful hints


> >Ken!
> >
> >Couldn't the list create a space on the homepage something like "helpful
> hints", or
> >(name it whatever you will) for those ideas that have appeared within
> the last couple
> >of days such as the vacuum bleeding of brakes, and the home made
> radiator pressure
> >tester, or the methodology of identifing a blown headgasket(which
> cylinder)..  These
> >are great ideas that I want to have stored away for later reference...
> >
> >Azie Magnusson
> >Ardmore, Al.
>
>Yes it could be done.  But who would maintain this daily list?  It
>would be a lot of work.


What about having them submitted as short tech articles????

Keith


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 12:23:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Computers

In a message dated 10/18/00 8:20:13 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:

<< Either 1981 or 1987. It would be the same year they started with the
electronic feedback carb. On cars that was 1981. If it has a Check Engine
light, it has a computer. >>

It was 81, although the computer really didnt start doing anything important
till 84, when it took over the ignition from the duraspark box, and
incorporated TPS sensors on the carb, and other lil stupid things.  We
eliminated it from my bros 84 F-150.  All you need to do this is an MSD box.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Ross" <raj alaska.net>
Subject: Re: couple of little FE top end assembly tricks
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 10:02:15 -0800

for exhaust studs & bolts use a hi-temp anti-seize compound (usually copper
based)
something like Fel-Pro C5-A (p/n: 51002)

Ross
Anchorage Alaska
1967 F100 4x4


----- Original Message -----
From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 09:52
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: couple of little FE top end assembly tricks


> Might want to think about using red rather than  black, the red is hi temp
> and will stand the heat  better.   Just a thought if you use it on
exhaust.
>
> Dave
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JX Schulz" <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
> To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 9:37 AM
> Subject: [61-79-list] couple of little FE top end assembly tricks
>
>
> > Dave R. and I put the top end back together on this 67' 352 and thought
I
> > would pass on a couple little things. As a way to hold the 70-lb. intake
> > manifold while installing it, we ran some thin rope through the pushrod
> > holes on one side (#1), underneath the manifold, and then back up
through
> > the other side (#5) and tied a knot. We did this for #4 and #8 as well,
> > giving us two "handles" to lift the thing in place. When it's set in
> place,
> > all we did was untie the knots and pull the ropes through. Of course,
> having
> > enough room in the engine compartment for two guys to stand inside
helped.
> >
> > We've talked a lot about exhaust studs/bolts. I don't know if anyone
> > mentioned this, but I put some of that Ultra Black silicone on the back
of
> > the bolt holes for upper row of exhaust bolts. Seems like water and
other
> > stuff gets in there though the back, helping to rust everything up. I'm
> > hoping the silicone will seal this off. We'll see.
> >
> > I installed the exhaust manifolds on the heads before installing the
> heads,
> > saving a lot of hassle. I used the copper exhaust gaskets and plenty of
> the
> > black silicone also.
> >
> > Hope to have it up and running within a week or so.... ....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.