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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 16 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 297

In This Issue:
pressure gauges
Re: Cooling system pressure tester for a buck! (and other
Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460
Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460
Bench testing starter
Re: 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?
web site
Re: '76 F-100 Ranger Questions
Engine weight site
Re: Weight difference!
Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460
interval wiper switches
Re: Bench testing starter
460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?
knik 2000
Wheel Backspacing
351C
Engine weights
Found a 1979 F250 crewcab 4x4
Re: 1955 F-600 Custom
Re: 351C
Re: 4 bbl on a 300
Re: Engine weight list
Re: While I'm here!
Re: While I'm here!
Re: Bench testing starter
Re: While I'm here...
Paging Donald Haulsee
Re: Bench testing starter
Re: 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?
Re: 351C
Re: 351C
Re: Engine weight list

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: pressure gauges
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 21:45:43 -0500


John writes:  >>Good idea. Be careful about slapping your gauge on there. Moisture will
deteriorate most gauges. Ask any farmer about checking the air in the rear
tractor tires. The valve stem must be up.<<

OK!!!  I'm old and a retired farmer..  OK so you didn't ask!!  Gonna comment anyway!!
Nearly any Coop or farm store sells pressure gauges that are made to withstand liquids..
Even those corrosive salty ones(sodium cloride) that I currently have in my rear tires
on my 7000 Ford tractor.


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 22:52:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Cooling system pressure tester for a buck! (and other

I've got a system I make whenever I do a brake bleeding job (boy I hate them
jobs) that allows me to vacumn bleed the brake lines.

Basically consists of a large jug (old 1 Qt Brake fluid bottles work good)
and some cheap vinyl tubing about 1/4" ID. I punch 2 holes in the bottles cap
so they fit snugly around the tubing. Cut a length of tubing to about 3" and
insert it in one hole so it's down to the bottom of the jug. The other end of
this line will go to the wheel cylinders bleed valve. The other hole is
filled by the rest of the tubing. Insert enough to ensure a good seal (about
1/2-1" worth). Hook the other end up to manifold vacuum and your off and
running (or bleeding I should say). Just watch the master cylinder as it will
suckit dry fast if the bleed valve is full open!

Of course, make sure the garage door is open when your running the engine and
other common knowledge safety also applies. I like to use the clear vinyl
tubing to keep an eye on it as she bleeds. I once got careless and let it
suck up some brake fluid into the manifold and oh the white smoke out the
tailpipes!

George M in Fl.

In a message dated 10/16/00 11:15:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rsouther alldata.com writes:

<< Been losing coolant from my '77 E150 for a little while now.  Maybe a quart
every two or three weeks.  Havent been able to find it.  Was changing the
starter on Saturday and figured darn it, I was gonna find that leak!

Been wanting to buy a radiator pressure tester, but they're about a hundred
bucks.  Got brainstorming with dad and we came up with a working substitute
for 99 cents!

Bought a 5/8" flush tee (99 cents at Autozone) for the heater hose line.
Drilled a 5/16" hole (I think) and installed a metal bolt-in valve stem I
had laying around (had to grind the base of the stem down a bit so the cap
would seat correctly onto the tee) into the cap so the stem was sticking out
the top.  Installed the tee in the heater line and attached my kids bicycle
tire pump to the stem sticking out the cap.  Carefully pumped it up to 15psi
(the rating on the radiator cap) and the leak was immediately found (bypass
hose).  Took the tee out.  You could just leave the tee in if you bought two
tees and just screwed the un-modified cap on when you were done.  I'll try
to take a picture of it if anyone wants to see it...

Crude?  yes.
Cheap? Hell yes! (more gas money for the van and the Lincoln!)

We also surmised you could probably pressurize the system through the
overflow nipple on the radiator, but you would have to gut a radiator cap -
just need the top seal and a piece of fuel line with the tire valve hose
clamped in the end (you'd have to cut the base off the valve so the stem
would fit inside the fuel line).  Clamp the fuel line to the overflow and
pressurize the system through the valve stem...

Anyone else made some cheap tool that did the job?

Rich
 >>

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 22:55:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460

I'll have to look, but I'd swear I saw somthing that said a 400 weighed in
at/near 700 lbs. Theirs no significant differance mechanically between teh
351M and 400 to account for a big weight diff (yea, pistons & crank). I'll
have to dig up my ref (not saying that it's right, just that it was my
referance and that's what it said)

Geroge M in Fl.

In a message dated 10/16/00 11:43:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jstrauss inetport.com writes:

<< >I have a list that says:
>
>Ford 429/460 V8         640lbs
>Ford 351 Cleveland      550lbs
>
>I'd say the 400 will be right at or pretty darn close to the weight of
>the 351C.
>
Thanks for the quick reply.  Does your book show a weight for the 302?  My
'90 F150 has 210K on it and I am planning a replacement engine for the 302.
 I am kinda leaning toward the 400 just for the weight savings.
    >>

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 23:15:31 -0400

fomoco tech forum says the weight for a 429 is 560 lbs minus starter and
alt. fan.belts and air cleaner and i would assume oil to this should be the
same as a 460 i would think also
the 351 CJ is 530 lbs minus all the same things
the 302 4 bbl is 465 lbs minus the above as well
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Bench testing starter
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 22:30:26 -0500


Gary writes:  >>Clamp the ground jumper cable to the battery and the aluminum
housing on the starter (best ground) then firmly hold the starter in a
position in which you can get a good approach to the terminal with the red
jumper cable end and then....quickly, very firmly press the end to the
terminal.  <<

Naw!!!  Connect the one end of the pos(red clamp) to the terminal of the starter
(like Gary says, with the nut on it flush with the end of the stud), and then very
firmly make contact with the positive post(or lead) with the other ends red clamp...
The arching usually occurs when making/breaking the connection, so it is less likely
to damage anything if the momentary contact is made at the source(battery or charger)..
Gary is correct on the other stuff..  Make sure you have a firm grip on that starter..
It will want to twist very suddenly if it is good..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 22:39:16 -0500

The brackets   you need to find off of a e250 van with 460 for some or old
Lincolns for power steering
L&L make nice motor mounts   if the ones on that truck were hand made. some
people slot the frame   but not the way to go. Bearing Not sure but  should
be a way to take care of that.
Just my thoughts
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 8:52 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?


> I have the opportunity to buy a rebuilt 460, along with a really ragged
out
> '77 4wd truck to carry it home.  I heard the engine run today, and it
> sounded pretty good.  The truck is priced in the <$1000 range, so it's got
> me rethinking the cost and effort of rebuilding the 351M in my otherwise
> clean '77 F-150 4wd.  Gotta decide quick, because I have the hoist and
stand
> in the garage, or to be delivered this week.
>
> My main question:  this 460 is coupled to a C6, and I want to keep the 4
> speed in my truck.  Is there a chance that it won't swap, because of the
> lack of a pilot bearing releif in the rear of the crankshaft?  I've run
into
> this problem before re an Ol*s motor/tranny project.  Even if it will
mate,
> it looked like a poor fit into the engine bay of the donor truck- ex man
was
> rubbing the frame, and alternator bracket was also touching.  Some
> unattractive rigging of accessories in general.
>
> I hear the 460's are the cat's meow- is it worth the extra trouble and
> expense to do the 460?  Truck will be used for off-road hauling, trash and
> snow operations on my new mountain property.  No highway use.  TIA
>
> Bob
> 77 F-150 "the Project"
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: web site
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 22:32:01 -0500


Dennis P. writes:  >>You know, this might be a handy reference for the FTE web site...Ken?<<

Yep!!  I agree...(as if that made any difference)...


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 23:39:04 -0400
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Re: '76 F-100 Ranger Questions

Ryan Hostetler <hosdv19 hotmail.com> said:
> I am looking at a 1976 F-100 Ranger.  What problems should I look out for in
> this truck??  I really like these trucks and I'm a college student so I
> don't want to waste the well needed money.  Any information about these
> trucks is greatly accepted.  And what price might these trucks run (This one
> is in nice condition with a little rust and needs a new dashboard)??

You don't say where you are, but prices obviously vary. I'd expect to pay
$500-2000 for a truck as you've described (which is very little info). Rust
is expensive to fix right, but it depends on how long you intend to keep
the truck. New dashboard? Nah, live with it. :)  Ford trucks of this era
are super tough and parts are still plentlful. I learned to drive on my
dad's 77 F100 and wish I still had it. You can't go wrong with this truck.
Looking at this truck is really no different than any other old vehicle --
be honest about your needs and what you want it for (hauling your junk each
time you move or glossy paint and shiny tires). Does it look maintained? If
not, there will be more surprises later. If it's cheap, go for it. If it
breaks down, it's a funny story to tell at your next party.

-don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Engine weight site
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 22:47:16 -0500


Bill B. writes:  >>No sense in reinventing the wheel:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/engineweights.html

>Smith & Wesson...the Original point & click interface <<<

OK!!!  So why do I get only the top 2/3rds of the site??  It is chopped off the
BOSS 302!!!!!



Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Weight difference!
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 00:27:22 -0400

where are you from in Tn.
-----Original Message-----
From: Fifty7F100 cs.com <Fifty7F100 cs.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, October 16, 2000 8:38 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Weight difference!


>Your wives must not ever read this list!
>
>Glenn in TN
>57 F100 -- in process
>Another 57 (maybe a Custom Cab) spotted in the woods. Film at 11!
>Would love a Unibody if anyone knows the whereabouts!
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 00:21:29 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460

I'm planning on adding a bunch of new content in the near future.
-Ken

At 06:57 PM 10/16/00, you wrote:
>You know, this might be a handy reference for the FTE web site...Ken?




------------------------------

From: "Mike Mackie" <bigred connect.ab.ca>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 22:48:35 -0600
Subject: interval wiper switches

I was away for a couple of days but in reviewing the last few lists I noticed
Howards' post re the w/w switch. The interval wiper switch assembly has two
parts: a short wire harness with timer box and a special switch. This assembly
is the same from whenever they started using the interval switch (73?) to 86.
They have changed wire colors but the current flow is the same in all of them
except for the afore mentioned squirter wire which is easy to figure out. The
most likely trucks to find them on are the high level Rangers and Explorers.


------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 01:28:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Bench testing starter

Isn't it usually recommended that when attaching cables to make the ground
connection on the load side is the last connection?  I do this when jumping
vehicles and I find it also works to keep arching to a minimal when "jumping"
starters.  Am I all wet on this or what?

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee



Azie  writes:

>
>  Naw!!!  Connect the one end of the pos(red clamp) to the terminal of the
> starter
>  (like Gary says, with the nut on it flush with the end of the stud), and
> then very
>  firmly make contact with the positive post(or lead) with the other ends
red
> clamp...
>  The arching usually occurs when making/breaking the connection, so it is
> less likely
>  to damage anything if the momentary contact is made at the source(battery
or
> charger)..
>  Gary is correct on the other stuff..  Make sure you have a firm grip on
that
> starter..
>  It will want to twist very suddenly if it is good..

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 02:19:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jimbo <jcraig CLEMSON.EDU>
Subject: 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?

It all depends on what you want the truck to do, Bob.  I have had great time
hauling with my 400M, but it never had the breathing power that I craved
from my 460...  Don't get me wrong, that engine could yank a tree by its
roots, but drag racing a Corsica is a no no.

If you're into high revving horsepower, then build the 460.  If anything,
for less than a grand, think about yanking the truck for parts.  No one can
ever turn down cheap parts!!  For sure keep the 460--even if for another
project.  Sell the Dana 44 and 9 inch (but leave the C6 and NP205 for me :-)

The 460 has the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the 351/400M ONLY
originally equipped with a C6.  I'm sorry, but your 4 speed will not bolt up
without a call to Advance Adapeters.  I'm sure they will have something to
make you smile--and your pocketbook frown!


                                       Jimbo
                               '77 Supercab 466 NOW 4WD!!
                                    '51 F1 302


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 22:36:12 -0800
From: Matthew Schumacher <lists schu.net>
Subject: knik 2000

Hello all,

Some of you may remember a year ago when I posted some pictures from our
yearly trip to the knik glacier.  Well, it's that time of year again and
the new pictures are up.

Check them out at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.odoa.org/knik2000

This year the guy that had the chevy brought out his latest toy, a 68
Ford Bronco, Eric, who some of you know on this list and others, brought
his bronco, and I brought my 76 F-150.

In case you are wondering what happend to Eric's bronco, he broke a tie
rod. (Right after I bent mine!! ;) It wasn't that bad though, he got it
together good enough to make it out.  His wife was kind enough to bring
a new tie rod which he put on before heading back to Anchorage.

C'ya

schu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 02:26:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jimbo <jcraig CLEMSON.EDU>
Subject: Wheel Backspacing

What do ya'll run for backspacing on our '73-'79s?  I got a 2WD '77 Supercab
w/a '76 Dana 44 welded on front.  I am shooting for the tires to be as far
inward of the axles w/o rubbing to keep the moment on the wheelstuds to a
minimum. Thanks.

                                       Jimbo
                               '77 Supercab NOW 4WD
                                     '51 F1 302


------------------------------

From: "PitStop Performance" <thepitstop hotmail.com>
Subject: 351C
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 02:07:35 CDT


Hello All,

I have a 351M in my truck that I want toss in favor of a 351C. What all to I
have to change to drop in a 351C? I have a C6 right now. Will that bolt up?
The truck had a 302/C4 when I bought it ('71 F100).

Also, anyone have a good used 351C for sale?
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com.


------------------------------

From: "Ballinger" <ballingr sbmu.net>
Subject: Engine weights
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 05:27:46 -0500

>John,
>'83 and later 302- 440 lbs
>351M/400- 575 lbs
>429/460- 640 lbs

>These measurements are with factory intake and no external >accessories.
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/engineweights.html

The weight for the FE is a litle high(mine weighs 585 with an aluminum
intake), and the 460 is way too low.  A 460 is over 700 lbs, they are very
heavy, my cherry picker whimpers every time one drives by.


------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 06:54:54 EDT
Subject: Found a 1979 F250 crewcab 4x4

Hello, Gals & Guys!!  I found a 1979 F250 4x4 Crewcab on the net.  The truck
is sitting in a junkyard in British Columbia.  I live in New Jersey and it
would be way to much traveling to get it.  I asked the guy if I could give
his E-mail address out, and I will post if he lets me.  I know someone was
looking for a frame, but this thing is semi complete.  He sent me 3 pictures
over the net, and if you want them I will forward them to you.  Thanks & take
care!!  Wayne Grabley

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 07:23:55 -0500
From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: Re: 1955 F-600 Custom

>I'm hoping the add for the 48 F-6 stays in the paper for a few more months
so
>I can justify grabbing it (them, there are two for the price of one :-))

Gary,

I had a 48 F-6 for a few years. It had a two-thirty-something flathead V-8.
What a smooth running little mill that was. What a great big truck that
was! As I recall, there was no damping in the suspension (no shocks at
all). But, with 7 or 8 thousand pounds on the back, the ride smoothed right
out.

61-79 content. I pick up my new (to me) '67 F250 camper special this
weekend. Woo Hoo. It's a thing of beauty.

Doss Halsey
67 F250 Camper Special (beauty)
68 F250 Camper Special (parting out)
72 F250 Camper Special (make an offer)
let's go camping!


------------------------------

From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: 351C
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 07:42:42 -0500

Bolt pattern of 351c and 302 are the same for trans, but 351 m is like 460
big bolt pattern  c6 so trans will not be same. trans must have been change
when 302 was out to make 351m work or check your #s again.
Just went thru this with 83 has 302 in  351w motor was original equip. but I
have a 351 c going in when I get around to getting a crank
----- Original Message -----
From: "PitStop Performance" <thepitstop hotmail.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>; <listar ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 2:07 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] 351C


>
> Hello All,
>
> I have a 351M in my truck that I want toss in favor of a 351C. What all to
I
> have to change to drop in a 351C? I have a C6 right now. Will that bolt
up?
> The truck had a 302/C4 when I bought it ('71 F100).
>
> Also, anyone have a good used 351C for sale?
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.
>
> Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com.
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 09:00:56 -0400
From: David Henderson <DHenders VT.Edu>
Subject: Re: 4 bbl on a 300

Sean:

Sorry to take so long in replying, I'm currently in digest mode.

> Right now I'm debating whether to go with a manual choke or electric.
> Summit only offers the Edelbrock 500 as a manual choke--gotta buy a
> conversion kit if I want electric.  Anyone have any experience with these?
> How hard is it to do this conversion and set it up properly?
>
The electric choke conversion is really not that hard to do.  The
instructions in the manual from Edelbrock are great and the choke is
easy to set as long as you remember to disconnect the power before
setting it.  I think it works great, but I know there are others out
there that are almost fanatical about a manual choke.

Dave H

--

David A. Henderson, M.Sc.
G. Cunningham Fellow
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
Department of Dairy Science
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061 USA
Phone: (540)231-4773
Fax: (540)231-5014
mailto://DHenders VT.Edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 08:08:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Bench testing starter
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Isn't it usually recommended that when attaching cables to make the ground
> connection on the load side is the last connection?  I do this when jumping
> vehicles and I find it also works to keep arching to a minimal when "jumping"
> starters.  Am I all wet on this or what?

Thom,

The big thing on making the ground connection last at the frame or somewhere
away from the battery when jump starting is to keep that spark as far away
from the hydrogen gas coming out of the battery as possible. Remember what
happened to the Hindenberg?

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 06:21:58 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine weight list

Well, what took you so long...and such a fancy red, too...

Bill Beyer wrote:
>
> No sense in reinventing the wheel:
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/engineweights.html
>

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 12:27:23 GMT
Subject: Re: While I'm here!

>I was sure a
>treated 2X4 would work just right. Unfortunately, (as always!) it is not
>quite tall enough along the 2X side to get the thickest dimension.


The explanation for this is easy ... 2x4's really used to be 2x4, now they're
not quite that ... if you've got a planar, or can have someone at the lumber
yard rip a short board for you, then you can get a real 2" board ... another
option might be to put a thin piece of ply wood/fiberboard under the 2x4 to
make it the correct height ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 09:52:28 -0400
From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Re: While I'm here!

You also could rip down a two by six.

Virgil

> >I was sure a
> >treated 2X4 would work just right. Unfortunately, (as always!) it is not
> >quite tall enough along the 2X side to get the thickest dimension.
>
>

------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:04:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Bench testing starter

Yes, I've heard of that thing!  Good point.

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

In a message dated Tue, 17 Oct 2000  9:09:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "John
LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com> writes:

<<The big thing on making the ground connection last at the frame or somewhere
away from the battery when jump starting is to keep that spark as far away
from the hydrogen gas coming out of the battery as possible. Remember what
happened to the Hindenberg? >>



------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: While I'm here...
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 14:11:05 GMT

>treated 2X4 would work just right. Unfortunately, (as always!)
>it is not
>quite tall enough along the 2X side to get the thickest
>dimension.

I'm not familiar with that peticular pickup, but why don't you get a thicker
piece of wood?  Take a 4x4 and rip it down to the thickness that you need,
just need a circular saw, table saw would work better.  If you don't have
access to one, is there a local lumberyard that would do it, or wood
worker/cabinet maker?

Were you saying that some of the wood pieces were replaced with rubber
bushings?  Could you go to the parts store and see if they could find a
bushing the correct size, even if it took a little altering.  If it were my
pickup I would use metal or rubber instead of the wood.  But like I said,
I'm not familiar with it, and it's not mine.;-)

Marty
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:48:42 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Paging Donald Haulsee

Is Donald Haulsee still on this list?  Have a web site
visitor that needs to ask you a question about the EFI
article you wrote.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 07:51:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Bench testing starter

Well thanks for the advice guys.  I guess either my battery doesn't have
enough juice or both of my starters are dead since I essentially did what
you all have suggested and nothing happened except some sparks at the
starter when I connected the negative cable.  No starter movement, no
twisting, nothing...  I'll try to get a better battery and try it again or
maybe see if my local "Schlep Boys" will test it if I bring it in.

Thanks for the help.

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project still in progress)
'79 F-350 4x4



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------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 08:09:23 -0700

I don't understand this statement. Are you saying that 460s have a different
bell housing bolt pattern on automatics and manuals? Why would a 4 speed
from a 460 not bolt up to a 351M/400?

## Smith & Wesson...the Original point & click interface ##


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimbo" <jcraig CLEMSON.EDU>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 11:19 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 460 Swap into 351M Truck- Advice?


>
> The 460 has the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the 351/400M ONLY
> originally equipped with a C6.  I'm sorry, but your 4 speed will not bolt
up
> without a call to Advance Adapeters.  I'm sure they will have something to
> make you smile--and your pocketbook frown!




------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: 351C
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 08:10:58 -0700

If you're gonna spend the $$$ for a new engine AND tranny then why not just
build the 351M into a stout 400 and not worry about swapping any external
parts?

## Smith & Wesson...the Original point & click interface ##

----- Original Message -----
From: "PitStop Performance" <thepitstop hotmail.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>; <listar ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:07 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] 351C


>
> Hello All,
>
> I have a 351M in my truck that I want toss in favor of a 351C. What all to
I
> have to change to drop in a 351C? I have a C6 right now. Will that bolt
up?
> The truck had a 302/C4 when I bought it ('71 F100).
>
> Also, anyone have a good used 351C for sale?




------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: 351C
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:12:20 -0500

I'll agree with Bill here.  There are some good combinations out there for
the 351M.  That's actually what i'm gonna be doing now.  I'm building my
351M into a potent 400.  :)

I found some nice info on this site about making a 351M to a 400.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.projectbronco.com/

Click on the tech articles.  He also has a list of reasons why and why not
to swap to a different motor and why  and why not to rebuild the 351M so It
gives you a pretty good choice

-Don

> If you're gonna spend the $$$ for a new engine AND tranny then why not
just
> build the 351M into a stout 400 and not worry about swapping any external
> parts?
>
> ## Smith & Wesson...the Original point & click interface ##
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "PitStop Performance" <thepitstop hotmail.com>
> To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>; <listar ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:07 AM
> Subject: [61-79-list] 351C
>
>
> >
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I have a 351M in my truck that I want toss in favor of a 351C. What all
to
> I
> > have to change to drop in a 351C? I have a C6 right now. Will that bolt
> up?
> > The truck had a 302/C4 when I bought it ('71 F100).
> >
> > Also, anyone have a good used 351C for sale?
>
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Engine weight list
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 08:14:36 -0700

I didn't put it together nor do I take any credit for it (I woulda' done it
in blue personally). I assume it to be relatively accurate because it is
supposedly taken from SAE figures but I believe it was Jason Derra who first
posted it. As at least one person has pointed out there may be some
questionable weights...

## Smith & Wesson...the Original point & click interface ##


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Pearson" <dpearson ....


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