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61-79-list Digest Sun, 15 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 294

In This Issue:
Re: Mac's Auto Parts Web Address
Re: Mac's Auto Parts Web Address
Re: 66 Automatic
Bed floors?
Re: Bed floors?
Re: Resistive wire
Re: frozen e-brake on 61
FMX on what ?
Re: FE questions
More on bed floors
1955 F-600 Custom
Re: More on bed floors
Re: frozen e-brake on 61
Re: Found a C6, Now looking for...
Weight of 400 vs. 460
Re: 1955 F-600 Custom
FE Automatic
Frozen E brake cable
Looking for old car mags
Re: 1955 F-600 Custom
Re: Starting Electrics?
Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460
couple of little FE top end assembly tricks
428FE oiling
Re: 4 bbl on a 300
C6 bellhousing
Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460
Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 22:51:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Mac's Auto Parts Web Address


www.macsautoparts.com

-mel

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Mac's Auto Parts Web Address
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 21:57:20 -0500


Thanks!

---Garrett www.1966ford.com



 ----- Original Message -----
 From: EffieFrd aol.com
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 9:51 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Mac's Auto Parts Web Address



  www.macsautoparts.com

 -mel



------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: 66 Automatic
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 21:59:37 -0500

crud n/m, was thinking about something else, I have a C-4 in the garage and
a C-6 in my other truck.

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Eric Washburn
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 9:46 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 66 Automatic


but the pan is shaped like a C6, 1 sec, I'll take pics with my digital
camera

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of G & J Boling
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 9:41 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 66 Automatic





> are ya'll sure about this? I have a C-6 and the bell housing comes off of
> it, it was out of an early 70's Ford with a 390 in it. I can take pics if
> ya'll want.
======================================================
if youve got a C6 with a removable bell housing you better frame it they
never made one of them from FORD i bet its a FMX they do shift the same as
the C6 did were made into the 70s unlike the cruisomatic which ended in the
late 60s
gordon


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------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: Bed floors?
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 22:55:23 -0400

Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
I used 3/8 plywood to cover another '66 box floor .....
===================================================
I was just faced with this same problem a few months ago on the "replacement
bed" for my 64, 8' styleside. I was originally wanting to replace the floor
with an OEM panel, but couldn't find one for less than about $600. I got to
measuring the same panel on my 81 F-100, 8' bed, and couldn't believe it was
dimensionally identical. The ribs are shaped different, but that's all. The
mounting holes are spaced different to, but that's not a real big deal. If
you want to go to the expense of buying a new panel for a later model, I'm
sure it would work. I don't know the cost from Ford though. I chickened out
and went with good ol flat steel sheetmetal. (couldn't beat the price) You
might be able to get a floor from a donor at a yard, but cutting out all
those spot welds would take forever, and you'd have to do it twice, your old
bed and the donor floor.
 Good luck, Phil ( 64 F-100 )











------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Bed floors?
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 22:18:31 -0500


How thick of sheetmetal did you use? Now I think I might get some flat sheetmetal and just cover the entire bed with it... right over the old metal. Then Herculiner over that.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com



 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Desanto, Phillip
 To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
 Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 9:55 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Bed floors?


 Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
 I used 3/8 plywood to cover another '66 box floor .....
 ===================================================
 I was just faced with this same problem a few months ago on the "replacement
 bed" for my 64, 8' styleside. I was originally wanting to replace the floor
 with an OEM panel, but couldn't find one for less than about $600. I got to
 measuring the same panel on my 81 F-100, 8' bed, and couldn't believe it was
 dimensionally identical. The ribs are shaped different, but that's all. The
 mounting holes are spaced different to, but that's not a real big deal. If
 you want to go to the expense of buying a new panel for a later model, I'm
 sure it would work. I don't know the cost from Ford though. I chickened out
 and went with good ol flat steel sheetmetal. (couldn't beat the price) You
 might be able to get a floor from a donor at a yard, but cutting out all
 those spot welds would take forever, and you'd have to do it twice, your old
 bed and the donor floor.
   Good luck, Phil ( 64 F-100 )




------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Resistive wire
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 23:20:54 -0400

First off, let me say I look forward to your replies to anybody on this
list, let alone mine.

> My point is that if you load the wire it will show less voltage than with
no
> load due to line loss.  Until I experimented with it myself I had no clue
it
> was that dramatic.

Yea, OHM's law

> When I say "Average" I don't really mean mathmatical average I mean  the
> "Mean" voltage.  Not being an electrical engineer I don't have all the
> correct terms at the tip of my tongue :-)

Sorry, didn't mean to be a smart A**, Niether am I ( an engineer) yet. ( I'm
not dangerous with tools in my hand :)) I'm just an ex mechanic turned
electronic tech.  The terms are not that important as far as this post is
concerned, as long as we all understand what is being stated.

> If you have a static value at the coil of 8v then you will see less,
perhaps
> only 6v, with points closed and even less with engine running which may be
> mitigated somewhat by the alternator output so with engine running I might
> expect to see Less than static but perhaps a little more than dead short
> levels.  I can't get too specific here since I haven't actually tested
these
> values directly, these are just the principles involved.

I agree, but the question is "what are the correct voltages".  We wont even
go into the open vs closed time of the points and how this affects voltage.
(read dwell or duty cycle)

> Coil voltage in run mode should never be battery in any case.  It should
> always be restricted voltage in that mode.

Again, I agree.  Jeff's coil supply voltage is about 3 volt's below charging
voltage.  (IE 11v verses 14v charging voltage.)  My real question is this,
Is this OK or should I add more resistance in line?  I would hate to draw
down his primary voltage and in effect, draw down his secondary (read spark)
voltage un necesarily.

I know, beatin a dead horse here
Rich




------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: frozen e-brake on 61
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 20:27:33 -0700 (PDT)

> What I mean is the handle won't budge...I can try and pull with
> all my might and nothing...SO i was wondering where to start

Oops.  I guess I misunderstood.  Sorry, can't help you with the
handle part.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
in digest mode


------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: FMX on what ?
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 00:23:36 -0400

> they made cruisomatics and FMXs with bell housings
> for all but maybe the 6 cylinders i think

The Windsor block (289/302/351W) bell housings will
bolt up to a 300 I-6 and probably a 240 I-6, so even if
Ford never actually did it at the factory, you could put
a FMX behind a 300 6-cyl.

I have FMX's with the W-block bellhousing and one with
a 351M/400 bell housing, so I can definitely confirm that
the FMX was made to put behind at least the 302, 351W
and 351M.  In theory, you could bolt one up to a 240 I-6,
a 300 I-6, 255 (Windsor V8 from the early 80's), 289, 302,
351W, 351M, 400, 429, or 460 if you had the right
bellhousing for it.



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 21:44:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FE questions

Scott,
I can't help much with the FE questions, but I can
tell you that an RV Cam is not the right choice for
10.5:1 CR and 92 Octane pump gas. I have a 400 +.030
with flattop pistons and '71 4V Cleveland heads. This
comes out to about 10.2:1 CR. For my cam, I chose a
Crane H-278-2. This is 278/290 degrees advertised
duration. That is 222/234 degrees at .050" valve
opening. It gives .539"/.534" lift with 1.73 rockers.
It has a lopey idle and is as much cam as I want. It
works pretty good with 92 Octane without much pinging,
but I do have the timing backed off slightly. I have
my 750 CFM Carter set up one step rich in 'Power
Mode'. Also the secondary jets are one step rich. I
also have a Holley Annihilator Ignition to light it
up. I have had no problems with the Crane Cam or the
other Crane parts in my valve train. I know that
Lunati offers a similar grind for my engine.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V

>Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 18:29:35 -0700
>From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: FE questions

>I need to pull my 428 out of my 76 F-250 4x4 and
>replace the bearings. Currently I have a Melling RV
>cam,Mallory dist and coil w/MSD wires,Heddman
>headers,dual 21/2 exhaust w/H-pipe,Edelbrock
Performer
>intake w/750 edelbrock carb and 10.5-1 compression.
>While I have it apart I would like to do a few other
>things like improve the oiling,add more cam and
>possibly reduce the compression.
>My questions are:
>What passages do I open up to improve the oiling?
>I currently have a high volume oil pump and have
heard >that FEs do not like high volume or high
pressure >pumps.Am I better of with a standard pump?
>Years ago i had a 428CJ cam in a 390 in this truck it
>it screamed. Being as Ford no longer carries the CJ
>cam I'm thinking Lunati 428CJ clone cam.Is this a
good >choice? Does Lunati make a good cam? Has quality
>suffered with Holley taking over Lunati?
>How about the quality of other aftermarket cams?
>How much cam do I need to "bleed off"some
compression?
>If I get the right cam do I have to lower my
>compression?
>Lower compression pistons are hard to find for a 428
>and I don't like the idea of having them dished.Any
>other ideas? Should I just spring for some pistons
and >be done with it? I can only run about 25 degrees
total >advance now or it will ping. I'm thinking if I
lower >the compression I can run more timing and
possibly >make more power or at least break even.Am I
all wet?
>If I do lower the compression I'm still putting more
>cam in it,I miss a "real"performance cam.........



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------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: More on bed floors
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 01:50:47 -0400

Mel asked: >>>>>
Hey Gang,
While we're on the topic of bed floors.  The bed floor for my '65
(styleside,
shortbed) is about shot. I've been tossing around the idea of fabbing up a
wooden floor for it......maybe wooden slats with the chrome strips. Can it
be done?   Ideas?
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Mel- As far as a wood floor goes, there's a place called MAR-K that makes
replacement wooden floors for most Flareside & Stepside type beds for Fords
and lesser trucks. They  will also make "custom" kits up, based on your
measurements. ( the trucks :-) Naturally, they favor bowtie brand trucks,
but do offer some Ford / Dodge stuff too. They even make wood kits for
Chevys that came with steel floors...go figure? They also have the metal
strips in plain steel, stainless, and chrome.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mar-k.com/index.html
 There's another place called Bruce Hornkey (sp?) that makes wood kits too,
but I don't have a link for him. Good luck, Phil  (64 F-100)











------------------------------

From: WhtsUpDoc2 aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 03:19:06 EDT
Subject: 1955 F-600 Custom

I realize that this is not within the bounds of 61-79, but give a fellow
member a break! I told you guys about the F-600 Custom I picked up in
exchange for two nanny goats! At any rate, I just started tinkering with it.
Unfortunately I haven't gotten too far. The engine hasn't been locked up, but
I cannot get the engine to turn over.  I have gotten lots of advice on what
to do, and this is what I've done so far: I have lubricated all pulleys,
taken out the spark plugs, put a oil/gas mixture in the spark plug outlets,
manually turned the crank, and tried to turn over the engine.... with no
success. I am now going to try to drain the oil and replace with new oil as
well as an additive to help break up the oil build up. Then I have been told
I should put the truck in gear and try pulling the truck to get the crank
moving.  What do you guys think? Any more advice?  I'd appreciate it!
Jason Warner
Yukon, Oklahoma
1978 F-250 Custom
1955 F-600 Custom

------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 04:53:07 EDT
Subject: Re: More on bed floors

In a message dated 10/16/00 1:59:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
pdesanto Cinergy.com writes:

<< http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mar-k.com/index.html >>

tried this web address and it didnt work..."no such address".  :o(  but i
checked and found their snail mail address in one of my truck mags.  so i'll
write em and check it out.  thanks.  :o)

-mel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 05:19:32 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: Re: frozen e-brake on 61

Rich
Nope..Very little twist...Is that how you un lock it??I'm not familiar with
this style
e brake
joe

Richard Larsen wrote:

> > What I mean is the handle won't budge...I can try and pull with all my
> > might and nothing...SO i was wondering where to start
> > Joe
>
> Will it twist?
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Gary Tobolski" <garyt mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Found a C6, Now looking for...
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 06:41:52 -0400

We found a C6 for my buddy Jimbo's 460, now he would like to score a
tilt steering colum. He's doing a total resto on a '78 F350 Crew Cab.
Anyone have an extra tilt they wanna part with or know where we can get
one reasonably priced?

Thanks,
Gregster
'77 F250 Explorer 4x4
'77 F100 Shortbox 4x4


Hello. You might want to try an Ididit column.  I got a steel tilt column
for my 78 Bronco for $275.  If you need a shifter for the transmission then,
I suggest the unimatic shifter from B&M.  I got this for $80, and it was
simple to install.  Good luck.
Eric Tobolski


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 08:29:56 -0500
From: John Strauss <jstrauss inetport.com>
Subject: Weight of 400 vs. 460

Does anybody know the approximate weight of a 460 and a 400?  I am thinking
the 400 is lighter but not sure how much.
  _
_| ~~.  John Strauss
\, *_}  jstrauss inetport.com
  \(    Texas Fight!


------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 10:02:08 EDT
Subject: Re: 1955 F-600 Custom

If you are not able to turn the engine over by hand using a socket and
breaker bar on the front pulley then it is seized or perhaps the starter
might be jammed.  Pulling the starter is easy enough; however, if the truck
has been sitting for any length of time it's probably seized.  A seized
engine means the cylinders are rusted or worse it may have seized due to a
piston melt-down.  In either case there is a lack of lubrication in the
cylinders, but particularly on the piston & rings.  Putting the gas oil
mixture in may have helped, but it will not correct the problem.  I
personally use a 50% mix of 30W and dielsel fuel.  The diesel fuel will have
some penatrating/lubricant qualities which the gas does not have.  Pulling
the truck to break it free is not adviseable as you will likely cause damage.
The engine probably will need to be taken apart.  This is probably not the
advice you wanted to hear.

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: FE Automatic
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:02:05 -0500


Tim writes:  >>My 66 has an FE standard and my brother has a 68 FE with an automatic.
Will the automatic work on my 66?  Both are short beds.<<

Yes..  May have to change the location of the crossmember, but I think the holes
are already in the frame..  If you can get, from the crankshaft back to the tailshaft..
I'm not sure about the yoke on the driveshaft..  May be different, but you can get
these in a salvage yard I would think.  You need to also change out the steering
column and get rid of the clutch pedal...  It can be made to work using all stock
parts, but a little thought and work may be required...


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Frozen E brake cable
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:11:19 -0500


Joe writes:  >>What I mean is the handle won't budge...I can try and pull with all my
might and nothing...SO i was wondering where to start<<

Crawl underneath and locate the different places that the cables are joined
together with a disconnect.  Try disconnecting it where it goes from single line
to dual lines(one to each rear wheel), and try to operate the handle again.. Isolate
the place it is frozen is what I'm saying..  If the handle will move with the rear
individual cables disconnected, then it is the rear cables, but if it still won't budge,
then it is the front single cable.  Could be several things..  Could be the handle part
itself, but not likely..


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 10:21:19 -0400
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Looking for old car mags

I've started collecting old car magazines to get bone up on my history, so
if anyone has magazines from the early 50s through to the mid 60s, let me
know. I'm looking mainly for magazines such as Rod & Custom, Hot Rod, Hop
Up, Car Craft, and similar titles. I'm very interested in late 50s and
early 60s styled custom cars and trucks, so I'm looking for inspiration.
I'm not looking to break the bank, but I'll pay a fair price, and you can
know they are going to a good home -- In addition to being a car nut, I'm a
graphic designer, so I collect old print material. Your magazines will be
safe with me.  :)

And, yes, I already check eBay. :)

Thanks,
don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 1955 F-600 Custom
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 10:27:07 -0400

Sometimes if its a standard tranny the clutch will freeze to the fly wheel
if its left in gear and makes them seem like the engine is frozen up also
and near impossible to turn the motor over then without turning the complete
drivetrain i,ve seen this happen many times in stick shift vehicles and
thought they were seized up
gordon



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 07:21:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Starting Electrics?

Ok I realize that this is an old thread but I was working on this problem
again yesterday and I've got some more questions.  (surprise, surprise...)

I removed the started from the truck completely and tried getting it to
engage on my garage floor but I guess I don't completely understand how
they work.  I'm assuming that the starter itself is grounded through the
connection to the bell-housing correct?  So that in order to get the
starter to engage out of the truck I'd just hook the +ve to the terminal
and the -ve to starter body.  Is that what I need to do to "bench test"
the starter?

BTW neither the current starter or one I stripped off another truck would
do anything except throw some sparks when I tried hooking it up this way.
I'm assuming that this could also be caused by a weak battery correct?
That's my next area to check.

TIA for any help.

BTW I got my new '79 F-350 4x4 on Saturday along with a bunch o' spare
parts.  I'll have more questions on this truck at a later date.  Its
currently at my local garage who's going to let me know what it needs to
pass PA inspection.

Later,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project still in progress)
'79 F-350 4x4 (home at last)

--- John LaGrone <jlagrone ford-trucks.com> wrote:
> I haven't worked on Ford starters enough to tell you how to hook up
> wires
> and jumpers. BTW, you can check the starter on the bench with jumper
> cables,
> it doesn't have to be on the truck. You might try pulling it off and see
> if
> you can get something out of it unless you want a new starter any way.
> And I
> have had new starters out of the box that didn't work, too.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 07:23:05 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460

I have a list that says:

Ford 429/460 V8         640lbs
Ford 351 Cleveland      550lbs

I'd say the 400 will be right at or pretty darn close to the weight of
the 351C.

John Strauss wrote:
>
> Does anybody know the approximate weight of a 460 and a 400?  I am thinking
> the 400 is lighter but not sure how much.

------------------------------

From: "JX Schulz" <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
Subject: couple of little FE top end assembly tricks
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 08:37:48 -0600

Dave R. and I put the top end back together on this 67' 352 and thought I
would pass on a couple little things. As a way to hold the 70-lb. intake
manifold while installing it, we ran some thin rope through the pushrod
holes on one side (#1), underneath the manifold, and then back up through
the other side (#5) and tied a knot. We did this for #4 and #8 as well,
giving us two "handles" to lift the thing in place. When it's set in place,
all we did was untie the knots and pull the ropes through. Of course, having
enough room in the engine compartment for two guys to stand inside helped.

We've talked a lot about exhaust studs/bolts. I don't know if anyone
mentioned this, but I put some of that Ultra Black silicone on the back of
the bolt holes for upper row of exhaust bolts. Seems like water and other
stuff gets in there though the back, helping to rust everything up. I'm
hoping the silicone will seal this off. We'll see.

I installed the exhaust manifolds on the heads before installing the heads,
saving a lot of hassle. I used the copper exhaust gaskets and plenty of the
black silicone also.

Hope to have it up and running within a week or so....

CJ (Colorado Jeff)


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 428FE oiling
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:37:53 -0500


Scott writes:  >>What passages do I open up to improve the oiling?
I currently have a high volume oil pump and have heard that FEs do not
like high volume or high pressure pumps.Am I better of with a standard
pump?<<

I had very good luck with the following mods to oil passages in any and all FE's:
(1) Passage from filter to main oil galley down thru center one size(1/16") larger.
(2) Passage from pump to filter one size(1/16") larger.
(3) Passage down thur galley one size(1/16") larger.
(4) Passage from galley to cam and to crank enlarged one size(1/16").
(5) Oil holes in #'s 1 & 4 main bearing's need to be aligned with the holes in the bearings.
(6) Oil galleys to each lifter bank need to be tapped for a small allen head plug screw and
drill the plugs with I believe a .060" bit for oil..(this seems like an awful lot of
restriction, but that is how I remember it...  I also ran solid lifters at times and this may
be strictly for the solids.. Not real sure - maybe someone else will jump in here with
more info..(better info)

Note:  If you plan to wind this thing up into the 6 grand range (or better) and still have it live,
you also need to get a larger oil pan.  It will suck a standard 5 quart dry this kind
of rpms if you hold it there for any length of time..  Ask me how I know this!!!

 Years ago i had a 428CJ cam in a 390 in this truck it it screamed.
Being as Ford no longer carries the CJ cam I'm thinking Lunati 428CJ
clone cam.Is this a good choice?<<

I too, have tried to order a CJ cam..  Don't know about the clone, but the standard CJ cams
were well suited for all around performance and were very surprisingly good on gas..I'd say
that if they truly cloned the CJ cam for lift/duration etc., then it is a good choice..

By the way, I've read all those discussions about the hi volume pumps and I haven't changed
my mind at all.. I always ran the Ford 427 pump, and it was described in the Ford literature
as "high volume"..

Good luck and be sure you vat that block after all that drilling..  Don't want any of that metal
left in it..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 10:46:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brett Habben <bhabben juno.com>
Subject: Re: 4 bbl on a 300

Thom,
Offy (323-225-1307, give them a call) makes 2 different 300 intakes;
1.) Dual Plane/Dual Port model 6019 for 1000-5000rpm operation, carb
mounts sideways.
2.) Single Plane Competition "C" model for 2500-7000rpm+ operation, carb
mounts inline.
They are totally different intakes. The Dual Port is split into two sets of
runners, one for
the carb's primaries, and the second set for the carb's secondaries.  The
Competition "C" is
comparable to the Clifford, being basically a large open plenum and one set
of runners.
The Offy intake will bolt to the factory exhaust manifold (heat provision),
but I'm
using a set of 87 split exhaust manifolds.  I did have to grind off one bump
on the split exhaust
to clear the intake.  I have the Holley 390.  Other's have used the 500-626
cfm Carter AFB/Edelbrock
Performers successfully.  As far being a good idea, that depends.  The
consensus seems to
be a trade off of more power for a little less mileage.  But that's probably
because when you
stick your foot into it you now have alot more air and fuel flow capacity.
Brett
>The stock carb on my 66 F250 with a 300cid six is about thrashed, and my
>local Napa is not having much luck getting me a replacement, so I am
>considering the offenhauser 4 barrel intake and a small 4 bbl carb. Has
>anyone on the list been down this road already? Is it even a good idea? Am
>I in for any surprises installing this combo? Also, the ads I've seen for
>the manifold all suggest the Holley 390cfm carb. Are there any other
>options? Finally, will changing out the intake manifold require that I
>ditch the stock exhaust manifold? I believe the Clifford intake does, what
>about the Offenhauser?
>TIA
>Thom
>66 F250 Utility




------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: C6 bellhousing
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:43:03 -0500


Eric writes:  >>are ya'll sure about this? I have a C-6 and the bell housing comes off of
it, it was out of an early 70's Ford with a 390 in it. I can take pics if
ya'll want.<<

Then it ain't a C6...  Best way to find out for sure is go to your favorite parts house and
ask to see the oil pan Identification chart for Ford transmissions..  Each family of
automatics has a different oil pan configuration and therefore different oil pan gaskets...


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 10:04:45 -0500

Dennis is pretty much right about the weights.  It's just a myth that the
429/460 weighs less then the 351M/400 block..

-Don

> I have a list that says:
>
> Ford 429/460 V8         640lbs
> Ford 351 Cleveland      550lbs
>
> I'd say the 400 will be right at or pretty darn close to the weight of
> the 351C.
>
> John Strauss wrote:
> >
> > Does anybody know the approximate weight of a 460 and a 400?  I am
thinking
> > the 400 is lighter but not sure how much.
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 11:10:44 -0400
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Weight of 400 vs. 460



Don Thurlow wrote:
>
> Dennis is pretty much right about the weights.  It's just a myth that the
> 429/460 weighs less then the 351M/400 block..
>

Would you sleep with that myth difference on you chest?? :-)

                         OX

> -Don
>
> > I have a list that says:
> >
> > Ford 429/460 V8         640lbs
> > Ford 351 Cleveland      550lbs
> >
> > I'd say the 400 will be right at or pretty darn close to the weight of
> > the 351C.
> >
> > John Strauss wrote:
> > >
> > > Does anybody know the approximate weight of a 460 and a 400?  I am
> thinking
> > > the 400 is lighter but not sure how much.
> > =============================================================
> > To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> > Please remove this footer when replying.
> >
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44 ....


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