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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 21:50:00 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Sat, 14 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 293

In This Issue:
Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Thank You From a Vet
Re: Resistive wire
Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Bed Floor
4 bbl on a 300?
Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
66 Automatic
Re: FW: Problem with a '78
Re: frozen e-brake on 61
Re: 66 Automatic
Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$!
Fuel pump
U joints
Re: Carparts.com and online ordering in
Re: frozen e-brake on 61
Found a C6, Now looking for...
Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$!
FE questions
Re: C6 & FMX differences
Re: 4 bbl on a 300?
Re: 66 Automatic
Re: Fuel pump
Re: frozen e-brake on 61
Re: C6 & FMX differences
Re: 66 Automatic
Re: Resistive wire
Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Re: 66 Automatic

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 00:23:13 EDT
Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?

if its that bad i would put in a slide in bedliner, or replace the bed, the
wood won't last long.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 21:33:53 -0700
From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: Thank You From a Vet

Thanks for saying what you said on the list.  As a vet, I'm currently flying a
flag at half staff for the guys (and two girls) who paid the top price to keep
our country "on top".

There are a lot of vets on this list, and you said it first and best what we
feel.

If we need a chaplain, I nominate you.

-M-

Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".

------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Resistive wire
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 00:43:40 -0400

From: Gary <gpeters3 lni.net>

> You need to read it at the coil.

I did.  The + side.

>The numbers he gave indicate no resistance
> in one case and probably 8-9v static in the other case (7.2v), neither of
> which sounds like a stock run voltage for a points system or dura spark
> either.

Thats why I asked for the list's help.  Makes no sense to me either.

Voltage at the coil with engine running should be around 5-6v if
> there is a stock wire or ballast resistor in place.

OK

During cranking the
> coil receives battery voltage but will still show a voltage drop due to
the
> shorting of the coil through the points as they close so what you see is
> "Average" voltage which is the average voltage between coil saturation and
> dump to ground or points open and closed.

I agree with you to a point.  I dont believe "average" is half the voltage.
ie: 5-6 volts.  I could be wrong though ;)
>
> It would not surprise me at all to discover that there is a wide voltage
> range here that is acceptable so 7v may be stock in run mode too but the
> book calls for 6-8 static, that is no load or in test mode with points
open
> etc. or wires disconnected from the coil to prevent a load.

Have ta disagree with ya here Gary.  Open a circiut, and I believe you read
B+,or source voltage (Batt V in this case)

(at least that's
> how I remember it).  The value he is stating is with load which means the
> static voltage would be higher or out of this range.  As you say though it
> does indicate some kind of resistance in the circuit which could be as
> simple as a bad connection somewhere too.

Cant disagree with you here.

> What I discovered playing with my ballast resistor on the electric choke
was
> that it made about 2v difference at the input side when the resistor was
> loaded or shorted which I presume is primarily due to the input wire size
> and voltage drop due to higher amperage and heat build up etc....Same
> problem many are having with headlight intensity, the input wires are too
> small to handle the full load the headlights put on them so the bulbs only
> receive a portion of battery voltage instead of their rated 12v.  Try this
> some time......pull the plug on the head lights, both sides, turn on the
> headlights and measure the voltage at the plug, to ground.....ETC

This is a steady resitive load. does this apply to the resistive\capacitive
load of a standard (read point type) ignition?

> Another test you can try is to pull the wire off the electric choke and
> check the voltage with key in run position, to ground and then plug it
back
> in and test the terminal on the choke housing  (where the wire plugs in)
and
> note the difference.  I was surprised how much difference it made with a
> load.

Again, a resistive load.  I'm leaning toward Azie's opinion on this one
Gary.  I think Jeff's voltage is OK.  I can prove this, right or wrong, with
ANY point type ignition, if I had access to one.  Any of you 61-75 truck
owners wanna help me out with this?  Email me and I will tell you how I
performed the measurements.  Not that you dont know how, but to do it the
way I did.  I may have screwed it up.

Thanks

Rich



------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 21:12:42 -0600

Whoa!  I wouldn't touch that particle board with a 20' pole.  I'd bet my
bottom dollar it wouldn't last a year.  My son had a truck that had so much
rust in the box the ArmaTuff people wouldn't touch it.  We bought some
diamond plate steel. undercoated the underside, welded the edges and bolted
in the normal spots then had it ArmaTuffed.  A little more expensive but
much more durable I think.

Rich Larsen

> What can I do to make the inside of the box look nice? I am going to
eventually cover the inside with Herculiner but the largish dents will
definitely show. I was thinking of maybe doing something like cutting a
large piece of particleboard the same size as the bed. I would cut out the
wheel wells, etc so it would cover the entire "floor" of the box. After I
had it in there, I would apply the Herculiner on top of it. I realize I
would have to somehow waterproof the particleboard on the bottom, but does
this sound like a good idea? Anyone have any better suggestions?



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 00:27:33 -0700
From: dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net>
Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?

I agree that a slip in bed liner is nice ... what year truck box is this
for ?  I used one in my 66 truck , never fit right ... the fender wells
are to large for the plastic liner to fit right . It always had a small
buckle in the floor area (roll bar held it down pretty well).

I used 3/8 plywood to cover another '66 box floor ... varnished it real
good to seal ... in 1980 ... box rusted away ... the wood is still
bolted to the cross members  :-)

dave Prasse


JJJJJGRANT aol.com wrote:
>
> if its that bad i would put in a slide in bedliner, or replace the bed, the
> wood won't last long.
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 01:57:07 EDT
Subject: Bed Floor

Hey Gang,
While we're on the topic of bed floors.  The bed for my '65 (styleside,
shortbed) is about shot.  Well, the floor of it I mean.  Somebody had welded
in a steel plate, then my dad cut it out when they took the bed off the
frame.  I've been tossing around the idea of fabbing up a wooden floor for
it.  Not particle board, ;o) but wooden slats with the chrome strips.  What
kinda PITA would this be?  Can it be done?  Any way about it I'm gonna have
to weld in some kinda new floor.  Ideas?

~Mel
Marietta, GA
1965 F100 Custom Cab
1989 Bronco XLT
ICQ#84544993
Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line...
Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It.

------------------------------

From: "Shelley Batty" <shelba molalla.net>
Subject: 4 bbl on a 300?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 19:45:53 -0700

The stock carb on my 66 F250 with a 300cid six is about thrashed, and my
local Napa is not having much luck getting me a replacement, so I am
considering the offenhauser 4 barrel intake and a small 4 bbl carb.  Has
anyone on the list been down this road already?  Is it even a good idea?  Am
I in for any surprises installing this combo?  Also, the ads I've seen for
the manifold all suggest the Holley 390cfm carb.  Are there any other
options?  Finally, will changing out the intake manifold require that I
ditch the stock exhaust manifold?  I believe the Clifford intake does, what
about the Offenhauser?

TIA
Thom
66 F250 Utility


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 05:12:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: "D. DiMartino" <grunon yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?

I too have been looking to buy replacement steel for my bed
('68), but I have to replace a portion at the aft most area.  If
you buy the steel in small 18"X48" sheets I won't have the
correct taper to meet the tail pan.  If I buy a sheet to replace
the whole bed will I get the taper?  I called a supplier and
couldn't get a definite answer.  Any ideas??


=====
Daniel DiMartino
<grunon yahoo.com>
1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf!  It's FREE.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 09:57:22 -0400
From: "O'Connor" <theoconnors mindspring.com>
Subject: 66 Automatic

List,
My 66 has an FE standard and my brother has a 68 FE with an automatic.
Will the automatic work on my 66?  Both are short beds.
Tim

------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: FW: Problem with a '78
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 08:37:26 -0700

> I bought a '78 F150, 400 CID, long bed from a friend out of state. The
truck
> is great! I do have a problem..... it starts fine when cold, but, when I
get
> to where I'm going and do what has to be done..... the truck will not
> start... if I do get it started it sounds off? If I let it sit for an hour
> or so it will run great. I've replaced ignition module, coil, plugs,
wires,
> rotor, cap, ground wire from the battery..... Battery checks fine as well
as
> the alternator. I'm at a loss, the only thing I can think of is that I got
a
> bad ignition module...... I do have a new distributor to put in, but, I
> don't know if I really need it. Any suggestions?
~~~~~~~~~~~

   Why not install your new distributor and/or carefully check the engine
timing.

   I recently had a similar problem with my 69 F250 with 390. The first
thing wrong that I noticed was that every once in a while the engine would
continue to run (real rough) after I turned the key off. Then the engine
would not restart immediately after turning it off after a long drive. It
turned out to be the timing was retarded and firing a few degrees ATDC
instead of BTDC. The fault was all mine because I'd never used a timing
light before, and made a mistake on my first attempt to time the engine. Now
I realize how to time the engine with the proper idle speed, vacuum advance
disconnected & plugged, and what that dial at the back of the timing light
is used for. (doh!)

Michael
69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS
69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/



------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: frozen e-brake on 61
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 09:07:50 -0700 (PDT)

Joe wrote:
> how does one freeze up the e-brake on my 61 f-250???It is the
> pull handle type, not the pedal type...I might be doing something
> wrong to release it??

I think you mean the e-brake stays on when you release the lever?
I don't see how this could have anything to do with the hyraulic
lines.

Something is holding the shoes against the drum.  The springs
don't have enough strength to retract them.  My car is a
real beater and is missing the rubber plugs on the backing plate.
If I drive in the rain and set the brake overnight it is frozen
the next morning.  I think this is due to things developing some
rust and not allowing the pads to retract.  On dry days I can
set the brake and it releases fine.

If you have groves worn on the little pads on the backing plate
that the shoes ride on that could be the problem too.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
in digest mode


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 66 Automatic
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 12:23:59 -0400


> My 66 has an FE standard and my brother has a 68 FE with an automatic.
> Will the automatic work on my 66?  Both are short beds.
> Tim
> =============================================================
YEP
they will work both should be the same tranny if not they should fit still
with a few minor mods to the shift linkage is all 1 might be a C6 and the
other could be a FMX if not a C6 is all
gordon



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 12:20:15 -0400
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$!

Gary, Dave, Jason, and anyone else I may have missed: Thanks for the
knowledge that the bellhousing bolts are 7/16", not 3/8". I matched up an
OEM bolt that fit, and thought that it was 3/8", but I will head to the
store to get another set. I'm sure that will set me straight.

Thanks!
-don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Fuel pump
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 16:35:26 -0500


Bob writes:  >>.  The level in the jar does not change, and gas goes
into the fuel filter in pulses, but does not stay there.  What seems to be
happening is the gas just gets pumped one way, and then goes back in the
other direction.  Am I doing something wrong, or are both pumps bad and I'm
in need of a new one?<<

Bad fuel pumps.. Both of them.  There is a built in one way valve in fuel pumps
that only fluid to pass in one direction...  You can work the arm on the pumps
with it off the vehicle and your finger over one of the ports and determine which
is suction and which is pressure...


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: U joints
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 16:42:09 -0500


Steve S. writes:  >>The first try netted the u-joints for the front axle and this
time I not sure what I got ( PN C3AZ-4635-L and C3AZ-4635-M ). All I know is
they don't fit and I am getting tired of driving back and forth to the
dealer<<
Take your drive shaft(or your old u joints, and get like ones) to your local friendly
parts place and purchase u joints that fit..  Over the years I've learned that Ford used
different u joints, different sized drive shafts, and several other things in vehicles
that were otherwise exact in weight class, F series, transmission & engine.  No rhyme
or reason in many instances, but what Ford had available on the day it was built..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 18:14:07 -0400
From: bill poudrier <poudrier ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: Re: Carparts.com and online ordering in

Nothing,  Their (wrenchhead.com) database doesn't go back that far.
I have had luck with 1969 and newer though.  As time passes they
seem to be going to the older years. I don't know how far back that
they are planning to go though.  Keep making each year newer until
you start getting listings.  I tried 1967 F250 and there are listings.
They show a remanufactured crankshaft for $179.20 ( I selected a 390
vehicle).  If you know the parts are the same between 1966 and 1967 then
you should be able to get them.  Let us know how it works out.

I just ordered a bunch of stuff for a 1987 lincoln cont. They shipped
one item and charged me the total shipping charge.  I HOPE I don't
get whacked $7.90 for each item that ships if they ship seperately.
I did on carparts.com!

Good Luck


At 07:18 PM 10/13/00 -0700, you wrote:
>After reading the posts regarding carparts.com I decided to check them out,
>and could not find listings for my vehicle (66 F250). Tried wrenchhead and
>Whitney as well, still nothing.  What am I doing wrong here?
>
>Thanks
>Thom
>66 F250 Utility



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 18:39:47 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: Re: frozen e-brake on 61

What I mean is the handle won't budge...I can try and pull with all my
might and nothing...SO i was wondering where to start
Joe

draco pacifier.com wrote:

> Joe wrote:
> > how does one freeze up the e-brake on my 61 f-250???It is the
> > pull handle type, not the pedal type...I might be doing something
> > wrong to release it??
>
> I think you mean the e-brake stays on when you release the lever?
> I don't see how this could have anything to do with the hyraulic
> lines.
>
> Something is holding the shoes against the drum.  The springs
> don't have enough strength to retract them.  My car is a
> real beater and is missing the rubber plugs on the backing plate.
> If I drive in the rain and set the brake overnight it is frozen
> the next morning.  I think this is due to things developing some
> rust and not allowing the pads to retract.  On dry days I can
> set the brake and it releases fine.
>
> If you have groves worn on the little pads on the backing plate
> that the shoes ride on that could be the problem too.
>
> Mark in Southwest Washington
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
> --
> '74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
> in digest mode
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 18:55:07 -0700
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Found a C6, Now looking for...

We found a C6 for my buddy Jimbo's 460, now he would like to score a
tilt steering colum. He's doing a total resto on a '78 F350 Crew Cab.
Anyone have an extra tilt they wanna part with or know where we can get
one reasonably priced?

Thanks,
Gregster
'77 F250 Explorer 4x4
'77 F100 Shortbox 4x4


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 19:46:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$!

Did you try Metric bolts the last 81 I-6 I scraped had metric and SEA bolts
in it.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 18:29:35 -0700
From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FE questions

I need to pull my 428 out of my 76 F-250 4x4 and replace the bearings.
Currently I have a Melling RV cam,Mallory dist and coil w/MSD
wires,Heddman headers,dual 21/2 exhaust w/H-pipe,Edelbrock Performer
intake w/750 edelbrock carb and 10.5-1 compression.
While I have it apart I would like to do a few other things like
improve the oiling,add more cam and possibly reduce the compression.
My questions are:
What passages do I open up to improve the oiling?
I currently have a high volume oil pump and have heard that FEs do not
like high volume or high pressure pumps.Am I better of with a standard
pump?
 Years ago i had a 428CJ cam in a 390 in this truck it it screamed.
Being as Ford no longer carries the CJ cam I'm thinking Lunati 428CJ
clone cam.Is this a good choice?Does Lunati make a good cam? Has quality
suffered with Holley taking over Lunati?
How about the quality of other aftermarket cams?
How much cam do I need to "bleed off"some compression?
If I get the right cam do I have to lower my compression?
Lower compression pistons are hard to find for a 428 and I don't like
the idea of having them dished.Any other ideas?
Should I just spring for some pistons and be done with it?
I can only run about 25 degrees total advance now or it will ping.
I'm thinking if I lower the compression I can run more timing and
possibly make more power or at least break even.Am I all wet?
If I do lower the compression I'm still putting more cam in it,I miss
a "real"performance cam.........

------------------------------

From: "Radoje Spasojevic" <rspasoje mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: C6 & FMX differences
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 19:04:14 -0700

Well, I'll be dipped!  I didn't know the FMX used a seperate bellhousing.
And here I was thinking the MEL FMX I had was useless (unless I did the
wildly popular MEL engine swap!).  I wonder how hard FE bellhousings are to
find...

Radoje Spasojevic
"Nerves of Steel, Brains of Chipmunk"
'90XLT-351W-AOD-BW1356-Dana44-Ford8.8(Lockright)-3.55
'83Custom-300-Clark4spd-NP208-Dana44-Ford8.8"-3.08
'76F-250 Crew Cab-390FE-NP435-NP205-Dana 60-Dana 60-4.10
'87Eddie Bauer-No engine-No tranny-No t-case-No axles-No front clip
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org
--Rubicon tested--
**********************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Azie L. Magnusson <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, October 13, 2000 8:44 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] C6 & FMX differences


>
>Gregster writes:  >>Question: Are there any visable differences (on the
outside)
>between a C6 and FMX trans? I don't think I've ever seen an FMX.<<
>
>The C6 has intergal bellhousing..  the FMX has seperate bellhousing
>(torque converter housing)...
>
>Azie Magnusson
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: 4 bbl on a 300?
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 20:50:17 -0500

I'm about to put a Clifford/Holley combo on my '67 240. Only thing I have to
do is get the accelerator linkage(cable) done. I don't think the intakes
would work with stock exhaust manifolds. But anything you find out, let me
know ok? And yeah it's a good idea! =)

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Shelley Batty
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 9:46 PM
To: 61-79-List Ford-Trucks. Com
Subject: [61-79-list] 4 bbl on a 300?


The stock carb on my 66 F250 with a 300cid six is about thrashed, and my
local Napa is not having much luck getting me a replacement, so I am
considering the offenhauser 4 barrel intake and a small 4 bbl carb.  Has
anyone on the list been down this road already?  Is it even a good idea?  Am
I in for any surprises installing this combo?  Also, the ads I've seen for
the manifold all suggest the Holley 390cfm carb.  Are there any other
options?  Finally, will changing out the intake manifold require that I
ditch the stock exhaust manifold?  I believe the Clifford intake does, what
about the Offenhauser?

TIA
Thom
66 F250 Utility

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: 66 Automatic
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 21:06:14 -0500

are ya'll sure about this? I have a C-6 and the bell housing comes off of
it, it was out of an early 70's Ford with a 390 in it. I can take pics if
ya'll want.

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of G & J Boling
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 7:00 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 66 Automatic


> I'm not an expert on automatic trannies, but I think it depends on the
engine its bolted to. I know some automatics like the C6 have a built in
bellhousing, so they will only fit the same family of engine as the tranny
was removed from. So if the 68 has the same engine as you do then you are
all set.
================================
they made cruisomatics and FMXs with bell housings for all but maybe the 6
cylinders i think
gordon


=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pump
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 20:11:58 -0600


> Bob writes:  >>.  The level in the jar does not change, and gas goes
> into the fuel filter in pulses, but does not stay there.  What seems to be
> happening is the gas just gets pumped one way, and then goes back in the
> other direction.  Am I doing something wrong, or are both pumps bad and
I'm
> in need of a new one?<<
>
> Bad fuel pumps.. Both of them.  There is a built in one way valve in fuel
pumps
> that only fluid to pass in one direction...  You can work the arm on the
pumps
> with it off the vehicle and your finger over one of the ports and
determine which
> is suction and which is pressure...

I hope that I haven't forgotten what all Bob said in his original message,
but I installed a new glass filter when I put a new carb on my T-Bird.  I
was worried that at times the filter was nearly empty with gas only slightly
pulsating into it.  In a panic I called my brother-in-law the professional
mechanic who told me not to worry about it.  If the bowl is full and car
only idling there is very little need for a strong fuel flow thus the pump
is not needing to pump a lot and an air lock in the filter makes it look
empty.  I don't know where the air is coming from to allow that large of
fluid void, but I haven't worried about it and it hasn't given me any
problems at all.  Sometimes the filter housing has not even a bubble and
other times it appears bone dry.  But it has never let me down.

Rich


------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: frozen e-brake on 61
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 20:14:43 -0600


> What I mean is the handle won't budge...I can try and pull with all my
> might and nothing...SO i was wondering where to start
> Joe

Will it twist?


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: C6 & FMX differences
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 22:38:16 -0400




I wonder how hard FE bellhousings are to
> find...
========================================
not too hard really just a week ago i was supposed to pick one up from a
fella tossing it out but wasnt able to get there before he wanted me to so i
missed out and its now in the junk yard
the FMX bell was used from about 66 to well into the 80s so the F/E bells
should be fairly easy to come by the trannys never seemed to wear out or
blow up like the c 6s did either and theres still alot of them in the junk
yards as well unlike the C6s
gordon



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 66 Automatic
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 22:41:11 -0400




> are ya'll sure about this? I have a C-6 and the bell housing comes off of
> it, it was out of an early 70's Ford with a 390 in it. I can take pics if
> ya'll want.
======================================================
if youve got a C6 with a removable bell housing you better frame it they
never made one of them from FORD i bet its a FMX they do shift the same as
the C6 did were made into the 70s unlike the cruisomatic which ended in the
late 60s
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Resistive wire
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 22:30:20 -0700

My point is that if you load the wire it will show less voltage than with no
load due to line loss.  Until I experimented with it myself I had no clue it
was that dramatic.

When I say "Average" I don't really mean mathmatical average I mean  the
"Mean" voltage.  Not being an electrical engineer I don't have all the
correct terms at the tip of my tongue :-)  What I meant was you would see
the mean voltage of a pulsating value which is lower than static not just
due to pulsating but also due to the load and line loss.  With engine
running the value you will see is the mean value between points open and
closed but with engine off and points open you will see max value and with
engine off and points closed you will see min value due to the load and line
loss.  When the coil is saturated the value will change yet again.

If you have a static value at the coil of 8v then you will see less, perhaps
only 6v, with points closed and even less with engine running which may be
mitigated somewhat by the alternator output so with engine running I might
expect to see Less than static but perhaps a little more than dead short
levels.  I can't get too specific here since I haven't actually tested these
values directly, these are just the principles involved.

Something I found really interesting in my exeriments was as the heater in
the choke coil warmed up the voltage changed enough to read the difference,
more that a volt.  Now there's a principle we all read in our science books
but perhaps never actually saw it in action  :-)

Coil voltage in run mode should never be battery in any case.  It should
always be restricted voltage in that mode.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> I agree with you to a point.  I dont believe "average" is half the
voltage.
> ie: 5-6 volts.  I could be wrong though ;)
>
> Have ta disagree with ya here Gary.  Open a circiut, and I believe you
read
> B+,or source voltage (Batt V in this case)



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 21:44:42 -0500


Could you please post the web addresses?

---Garrett www.1966ford.com



 ----- Original Message -----
 From: G & J Boling
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 7:26 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?



 >   =====================================================
 YES they all have web sites MACS even has on-line ordering if you want it
 ive dealt with them and they arent to bad really but i think MILL SUPPLY is
 cheaper than any of the others i have seen tho
 gordon




------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: 66 Automatic
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 21:45:45 -0500

but the pan is shaped like a C6, 1 sec, I'll take pics with my digital
camera

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of G & J Boling
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 9:41 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 66 Automatic





> are ya'll sure about this? I have a C-6 and the bell housing comes off of
> it, it was out of an early 70's Ford with a 390 in it. I can take pics if
....


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