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Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 23:08:17 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #292
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Fri, 13 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 292

In This Issue:
Off Topic
Re: Off Topic
What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Re: OFF TOPIC
Re: Off Topic
Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Problem with a '78
Bolt won't fit?!#$!
Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$!
North Carolina Connection
66 Automatic
Re: North Carolina Connection
Re: 66 Automatic
Re: FW: Problem with a '78
Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$!
Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Re: 66 Automatic
U-Joint Part Numbers
fuel pump bad?
Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Re: 66 Automatic
Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Re: U-Joint Part Numbers
Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$!
Re: fuel pump bad?
Re: fuel pump bad?
Re: fuel pump bad?
Re: fuel pump bad?
Re: frozen e-brake on 61

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 23:44:05 -0500
From: Al Evitts <albert brightok.net>
Subject: Off Topic

Friend recently acquired  a 87 J%%p Comanche pickup, while trying to
determine it's antifreeze condition we noticed there is no radiator fill
cap.  Apparently coolant is added to a plastic bottle at the firewall.
The bottle on this truck has about 3 drops of coolant in it.  Can't find
a drain cock on the radiator,  does anybody know how to drain, flush and
refill this POS.  it does not run hot but nobody knows how much water is
in it.

Thanx.

Al

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 01:11:11 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Off Topic

At 12:44 AM 10/14/00, you wrote:
>Friend recently acquired  a 87 J%%p Comanche pickup, while trying to
>determine it's antifreeze condition we noticed there is no radiator fill
>cap.  Apparently coolant is added to a plastic bottle at the firewall.
>The bottle on this truck has about 3 drops of coolant in it.  Can't find
>a drain cock on the radiator,  does anybody know how to drain, flush and
>refill this POS.  it does not run hot but nobody knows how much water is
>in it.
>
>Thanx.
>
>Al

Suggest to him that he subscribe to a Jeep mailing list.





------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 00:20:52 -0500


The bottom of my box has some dents in it, it appears the previous owners of the truck used it to haul some really heavy stuff before.

What can I do to make the inside of the box look nice? I am going to eventually cover the inside with Herculiner but the largish dents will definitely show. I was thinking of maybe doing something like cutting a large piece of particleboard the same size as the bed. I would cut out the wheel wells, etc so it would cover the entire "floor" of the box. After I had it in there, I would apply the Herculiner on top of it. I realize I would have to somehow waterproof the particleboard on the bottom, but does this sound like a good idea? Anyone have any better suggestions?

I will be getting a digital camera in a few days so I can provide some pictures on the dents if that would be helpful.

Oh, and the rest of the box is in pretty good shape. And I have a roll pan welded to it too, so please don't tell me to find a new box!    ;-)


---Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: OFF TOPIC
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 21:48:04 -0800

Just for a moment, lets take our minds off our Fords, and say a prayer for
the families of those who were taken in such a tragic way. Freedom is a
price that those who have never faught for it, will ever truely savor to its
fullest extent. And to all those who have given their lives in the line of
duty, not just members of the armed forces, but teachers, and students, and
police officers, and rescue members we take a moment to say THANK YOU for
your sacrifice to make our nation a better place, and to those currently in
any role such as the above listed, I personally want to say Thank you for
your service and may God bless your lives and that of your family.
Keith Price
"Pastoral Ministries Student"
Anchorage Alaska
71 F250 4wd


> The Navy on Friday provided these names of the killed and missing in the
> attack on the USS Cole:
>
>> > Killed:
>> >
>> > Electronic Technician 1st Class Richard Costelow, Morrisville, Pa.
>> >
>> > Signalman Seaman Recruit Cheron Ouis Gunn, Rex, Ga.
>> >
>> > Seaman James Rodrick McDaniels, Norfolk, Va.
>> >
>> > Seaman Recruit Lakiba Nicole Palmer, San Diego, Calif.
>> >
>> > Operations Specialist 2nd Class Timothy Lamont Saunders, Ringgold, Va.
>> >
>> > Ens. Andrew Triplett, Macon, Miss.
>
>>>Electronics Warfare Technician 2nd Class Kevin Shawn Rux, Portland, N.D.
>
>Thank you, Ken and the list, for your time.
>
>Rich
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Off Topic
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 04:02:20 -0400

oes anybody know how to drain, flush and
> >refill this POS.  > >Al
=================================================

tell him to buy a ford radiator to stick in it
gordon



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 04:08:55 -0400

What can I do to make the inside of the box look nice? I am going to
eventually cover the inside with Herculiner but the largish dents will
definitely show> ---Garrett
=============================================================
i sure wouldnt use particle board in it that would ne worse than the dent
really
if its just in the center section part of the bed why not just replace the
whole center section or just the dented part with a new or used piece by
cuttting it out and welding in new metal
gordon




------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 08:54:52 -0400
From: "O'Connor" <theoconnors mindspring.com>
Subject: Problem with a '78

Nan,
There have several good discussions on the list about this problem.  I even
made a chart to trouble shoot this problem based on all the input from this
list.  Unfortunately I lost my copy.  It should be in the archives.  There
was also a short discussion about two weeks ago on the list.  There are two
catagories for trouble shooting this problem.  Does it turn over slow or
normal when the engine is hot?  Write back with this info and the list
should take off from there.

Tim 66F100

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:07:09 -0400
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Bolt won't fit?!#$!

I have a seemingly stupid problem. Last weekend I bought an '81 I-6 300
engine to swap into my '66 Club Wagon. I went for broke and even bought an
engine hoist and engine stand figuring one can never be shorthanded when it
comes to tools. This is the first time I've ever pulled or swapped and
engine, so I'm sure I'll have more questions in the coming weeks. Anyway,
my main problem is that I can't get any bolts to properly hold the engine
on the engine stand. I know, it sounds stupid, but it's driving me CRAZY.

I need a 4" bolts for the engine stand arms (to thread into the holes in
the engine block for the bellhousing). I figure they are 3/8" course thread
bolts. Problem is that when I use this sized bolt, there is some slop and
as soon as I begin to lower the hoist, the bolts pop right out as though
they are stripped. Not good. But the real headscratcher is that if I take
an OEM bolt that matches the diameter and thread pitch of the 4" bolt (it's
a bolt that previously held on the large alternator bracket), it fits snug
and tight. The same sized nut fits on both bolts just fine.

The only thing I can figure is that the 4" 3/8 bolts I bought aren't
manufactured to the same tolerances as the OEM bolt and the slight
difference is accounting for the slop. I've tried other sized bolts and
none fit the engine block. Am I nuts or doing something stupid?! I've had
other competant friends take a look and they were all confused as well. I
don't have a tap and die set, but will I have to recut the threads to make
sure? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$!
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:33:38 -0700

All tranny bolts I've ever seen were 7/16" coarse thread (14 th/in if I
recall).  3/8 are 16 th/in and a 7/16 nut will thread on them fine due to
the extra space in the threads but won't hold beans.  Get grade 8, 7/16 and
use pipe as bushings to secure it to the arms on the stand.  The stand
should have come with bushings for this but if not you can use a pipe cutter
to make them.  Cut them as accurately as you can as to length and squareness
for best results.

Make sure you are not mixing metric bolts and nuts.  All threads on the 61
vintage are SAE, american threads, the 80's vintage had many metric bolts
and nuts on them, they are not compatible.  Metric thread pitches are
typically finer for a given general size range.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> my main problem is that I can't get any bolts to properly hold the engine
> on the engine stand. I know, it sounds stupid, but it's driving me CRAZY.



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:37:38 -0400
From: "O'Connor" <theoconnors mindspring.com>
Subject: North Carolina Connection

Does anyone on the list live in the mid North Carolina area. Where are the
good junk yards at for sixties F100?  I live 30 miles weat of Fayetteville.
Tim 66F100

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:46:14 -0400
From: "O'Connor" <theoconnors mindspring.com>
Subject: 66 Automatic

List,
I have a 66 F100 with manual transmission.  My brother has a 68 with an
original automatic transmission in it.  Is the 68 the same automatic that
was used in the 66?  Will the column be the same?  My brother is parting
out his truck and said I could have the transmission hardware.  Would it be
the same as original?
Tim 66F100


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: North Carolina Connection
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 10:00:58 -0400




> Does anyone on the list live in the mid North Carolina area. Where are the
> good junk yards at for sixties F100?  I live 30 miles weat of
Fayetteville.
> Tim 66F100
> =============================================================
E MAIL me off list untill then check this yard out near you
bingman auto inc.7799 highway 49 denton n.c.336-859-5880
ive got a web oage that shows allot of old trucks for you nearby
gordon



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 66 Automatic
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 10:03:50 -0400

Is the 68 the same automatic that
> was used in the 66?  Will the column be the same?  > Tim 66F100
>
> =============================================================
they used a few different trannys in the trucks like a cruisomatic -fmx- c-6
and some others but they should all work pretty much the same with just some
minor mods is all
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: FW: Problem with a '78
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 10:00:43 -0700

If it appears to be cranking slowly it is probably due to fuel percolating
into the manifold.  This is especially likely to be the case if you get some
back firing in the process.  The apparent hard cranking is due to over rich
mixture and engine trying to run backwards along with fuel washing oil off
the cylinder walls etc...  Ford big blocks typically do this in hot weather.
Some say it's the starter and this may be the case as well but I've had
trouble like this with all my big fords.  The critical timeing for this
phenomenon is about 5 minutes after turning it off to about 15 minutes
after.  Normally outside this range it will start normally if percolation is
the problem.  I would think the starter over heating problem would require
more time to cool but maybe not, haven't looked into that one yet :-)

Sounding off after starting may be an indication of another, unrelated
problem.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> I bought a '78 F150, 400 CID, long bed from a friend out of state. The
truck
> is great! I do have a problem..... it starts fine when cold, but, when I
get
> to where I'm going and do what has to be done..... the truck will not
> start... if I do get it started it sounds off? If I let it sit for an hour
> or so it will run great.


------------------------------

From: daves8 juno.com
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:29:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$!

Did you try 7/16" bolts?  Sometimes the nuts aren't as exact a fit as
they appear to be.  Either that or what you think are 3/8" bolts are
really metric...

The new bolts are the same tolerance as the old ones.  I've never seen a
problem by something like this.

Dave Schoenberg
Arvada, Colorado

On Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:07:09 -0400 Don Haring <haring fedora.net> writes:
>....... bought an '81 I-6 300
> engine to swap into my '66 Club Wagon. ...........can't get any bolts
to properly hold the
> engine on the engine stand......... I figure they are 3/8" course
thread
> bolts. Problem is that when I use this sized bolt, there is some
> slop .......... if I take an OEM bolt that matches the diameter and
thread pitch of the 4"
> bolt (it's a bolt that previously held on the large alternator
bracket), it
> fits snug and tight. The same sized nut fits on both bolts just fine.

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 14:43:40 -0500


Does anyone sell the ribbed metal that will match up with it?

Thanks

---Garrett www.1966ford.com



 ----- Original Message -----
 From: G & J Boling
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 3:08 AM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?


 What can I do to make the inside of the box look nice? I am going to
 eventually cover the inside with Herculiner but the largish dents will
 definitely show> ---Garrett
 =============================================================
 i sure wouldnt use particle board in it that would ne worse than the dent
 really
 if its just in the center section part of the bed why not just replace the
 whole center section or just the dented part with a new or used piece by
 cuttting it out and welding in new metal
 gordon





------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: 66 Automatic
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 14:50:09 -0500


I'm not an expert on automatic trannies, but I think it depends on the engine its bolted to. I know some automatics like the C6 have a built in bellhousing, so they will only fit the same family of engine as the tranny was removed from. So if the 68 has the same engine as you do then you are all set.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: G & J Boling
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 9:03 AM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 66 Automatic


 Is the 68 the same automatic that
 > was used in the 66?  Will the column be the same?  > Tim 66F100
 >
 > =============================================================
 they used a few different trannys in the trucks like a cruisomatic -fmx- c-6
 and some others but they should all work pretty much the same with just some
 minor mods is all
 gordon





------------------------------

From: "Shynkaruk, Steve" <Steve.Shynkaruk wilcom.com>
Subject: U-Joint Part Numbers
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 14:56:48 -0500

Help.
I am having a go-round with one of the local Ford dealers here in Dallas. I
am trying to get u-joints for my front driveshaft on a 1977 F150 4X4 SWB (
351M - 4spd ). The first try netted the u-joints for the front axle and this
time I not sure what I got ( PN C3AZ-4635-L and C3AZ-4635-M ). All I know is
they don't fit and I am getting tired of driving back and forth to the
dealer. Does anyone have a parts book that lists these part numbers so that
I may take the guess work out of the parts monkeys hands ? Any help would be
greatly appreciated.

Steve Shynkaruk
steve.shynkaruk wilcom.com

1977 F150 SWB 4X4 351M 4spd

------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: fuel pump bad?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 19:20:04 -0400

I've had two old ones on there, but neither want to PUMP the gas.  This is
what happens with the two that I've tried:  When I'm sucking the gas out of
a jar with about a foot of tube between the jar and pump, bubbles come out
of the tube in pulses.  The level in the jar does not change, and gas goes
into the fuel filter in pulses, but does not stay there.  What seems to be
happening is the gas just gets pumped one way, and then goes back in the
other direction.  Am I doing something wrong, or are both pumps bad and I'm
in need of a new one?

-bob-

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Gary
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 9:13 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: fuel pump... NOTE: don't weld next to the fuel
line


I blew the whole rear end out of an old Olds when I was a kid..... thought I
had everything under control...... knew it all.....  Turns out we  were
scrapping the car and cutting it up, litterally in half and forgot that the
fuel lines run along the frame.  There was about a 1/4 tank of fuel in the
dang thing and it was parked real close to my dad's favorite birch trees
which got a real unhealthy dose of heat and smoke from the flames that
went......oh......about 100' in the air!!!  Spare tire went flying along
with all the junk that was in the trunk and blew the tank right our of it.

Fortunately I was in front of it proteced by lots of sheet metal.

Then there was the time I was trying to burn a brush pile with ga......

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> getting to the carb.  I found one reason... I welded a hole in a the fuel
> line.

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 19:57:58 -0400

Does anyone sell the ribbed metal that will match up with it?
>
> Thanks
>
> ---Garrett www.1966ford.com
>
> =====================================================
i think MILL SUPPLY in cleveland ohio sells the panels and MACS in lockport
n.y as well i am pretty sure has them in sections
gordon




------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 66 Automatic
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 20:00:08 -0400

> I'm not an expert on automatic trannies, but I think it depends on the
engine its bolted to. I know some automatics like the C6 have a built in
bellhousing, so they will only fit the same family of engine as the tranny
was removed from. So if the 68 has the same engine as you do then you are
all set.
================================
they made cruisomatics and FMXs with bell housings for all but maybe the 6
cylinders i think
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 19:01:05 -0500


Do either of those places have a website or a phone number?

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 =====================================================
 i think MILL SUPPLY in cleveland ohio sells the panels and MACS in lockport
 n.y as well i am pretty sure has them in sections
 gordon






------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: U-Joint Part Numbers
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 19:17:04 -0500

Try http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.carparts.com  they show several listings and different brands
of ujoints and their part numbers according to your vehicle make and year.
I use them to cross reference parts all the time.

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Shynkaruk, Steve
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 2:57 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] U-Joint Part Numbers


Help.
I am having a go-round with one of the local Ford dealers here in Dallas. I
am trying to get u-joints for my front driveshaft on a 1977 F150 4X4 SWB (
351M - 4spd ). The first try netted the u-joints for the front axle and this
time I not sure what I got ( PN C3AZ-4635-L and C3AZ-4635-M ). All I know is
they don't fit and I am getting tired of driving back and forth to the
dealer. Does anyone have a parts book that lists these part numbers so that
I may take the guess work out of the parts monkeys hands ? Any help would be
greatly appreciated.

Steve Shynkaruk
steve.shynkaruk wilcom.com

1977 F150 SWB 4X4 351M 4spd
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 20:26:35 -0400




>
> Do either of those places have a website or a phone number?
>
> ---Garrett www.1966ford.com
>
>
>   =====================================================
YES they all have web sites MACS even has on-line ordering if you want it
ive dealt with them and they arent to bad really but i think MILL SUPPLY is
cheaper than any of the others i have seen tho
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$!
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 16:49:12 -0700

Use 7/16" NC bolts.

Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke




------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: fuel pump bad?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 21:18:31 -0700

I hate to state such a simple, unlikely thing but do you have the lines
going to the correct port in the pump?

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> I've had two old ones on there, but neither want to PUMP the gas.  This is
> what happens with the two that I've tried:  When I'm sucking the gas out
of
> a jar with about a foot of tube between the jar and pump, bubbles come out
> of the tube in pulses.


------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: fuel pump bad?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 21:32:30 -0400

Yup.  One end is threaded for a pipe fitting, and the other is set up for a
rubber hose and clamp.  Thanks for the heads up... I'd be kicking myself if
that was the case.  On the other end, it would be fixed... It would actually
be nice if that were the problem, because I may then have a running truck!

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Gary
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 12:19 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: fuel pump bad?


I hate to state such a simple, unlikely thing but do you have the lines
going to the correct port in the pump?

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> I've had two old ones on there, but neither want to PUMP the gas.  This is
> what happens with the two that I've tried:  When I'm sucking the gas out
of
> a jar with about a foot of tube between the jar and pump, bubbles come out
> of the tube in pulses.

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: fuel pump bad?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 18:44:59 -0700


>
> I've had two old ones on there, but neither want to PUMP the
> gas.  This is
> what happens with the two that I've tried:  When I'm sucking
> the gas out of
> a jar with about a foot of tube between the jar and pump,
> bubbles come out
> of the tube in pulses.  The level in the jar does not change,
> and gas goes
> into the fuel filter in pulses, but does not stay there.
> What seems to be
> happening is the gas just gets pumped one way, and then goes
> back in the
> other direction.  Am I doing something wrong, or are both
> pumps bad and I'm
> in need of a new one?
>
> -bob-

Sounds like one of two things.
1. The check valve in the pump has gone bad and is allowing the pumped gas
to return up the feed line.
2. The pump is connected backwards.

The pump should have a diaphram in it that acts like a water baloon. The
pump lever is connected to the diaphram.  When the lever is activated it
expands the diaphram and causes it to suck in gas.  The check valve prevents
the gas from going back up the line.  When the lever returns it doesn't
force the gas out that is the job of the diaprham, the rod just slips.  As
the diaprham is now full like a water baloon it puts the approx 6 psi of
pressure on the gas and prevents the pump from forcing open the carb float
needles.

From this description and my own experience, the pump can operate if the
output is blocked (normal operation when the carb bowls are full).  But if
the input is blocked it can rupture the diaphram when the lever tries to
actuate it.

I would try swapping the hose to the other connection then a new pump from
the store.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: fuel pump bad?
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 22:58:19 -0400

I put the pump back in the same direction and connected it as it had been
when I took it out.  Previously to welding the line open, it had worked
problem free.  My guess is I stirred up some debris and ruined both pumps.
I'm going to put a fuel filter in front of the pump as well as replace the
pump.  If this doesn't work, maybe I'll go back to welding the fuel lines
and see if I can't blow the tank the next time around!  (just
kidding...maybe)

-bob-



========================================

The check valve in the pump has gone bad and is allowing the pumped gas
to return up the feed line.
2. The pump is connected backwards.


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: frozen e-brake on 61
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 00:13:58 -0400

I had this problem on my 78. I took an oil can & filled it with tranny fluid
and soaked the  whole cable from front to back for a couple of days. soak it
really good where the cable is inside the outer metal sleeve (cable usually
rusts inside the outer sleeve  & will not slide back & forth)  after soaking
for a couple of days,grab ahold of the the outer sleeve & flex it back  &
forth to help break the rust loose.this worked on the one side on mine but
the other one broke --so I went & got new replacement rear cables for mine.
the front part  of the cable is still good & everything works fine.hope this
helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
To: ford trucklist61-79 <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, October 13, 2000 3:40 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] frozen e-brake on 61


>Group
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