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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Sat, 14 Oct 2000 23:08:17 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 23:08:17 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: 61-79-list digest users <listar Reply-to: 61-79-list Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #292 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Fri, 13 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 292 In This Issue: Off Topic Re: Off Topic What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Re: OFF TOPIC Re: Off Topic Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Problem with a '78 Bolt won't fit?!#$! Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$! North Carolina Connection 66 Automatic Re: North Carolina Connection Re: 66 Automatic Re: FW: Problem with a '78 Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$! Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Re: 66 Automatic U-Joint Part Numbers fuel pump bad? Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Re: 66 Automatic Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Re: U-Joint Part Numbers Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$! Re: fuel pump bad? Re: fuel pump bad? Re: fuel pump bad? Re: fuel pump bad? Re: frozen e-brake on 61 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 23:44:05 -0500 From: Al Evitts <albert Subject: Off Topic Friend recently acquired a 87 J%%p Comanche pickup, while trying to determine it's antifreeze condition we noticed there is no radiator fill cap. Apparently coolant is added to a plastic bottle at the firewall. The bottle on this truck has about 3 drops of coolant in it. Can't find a drain cock on the radiator, does anybody know how to drain, flush and refill this POS. it does not run hot but nobody knows how much water is in it. Thanx. Al ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 01:11:11 -0400 From: Ken Payne <kpayne Subject: Re: Off Topic At 12:44 AM 10/14/00, you wrote: >Friend recently acquired a 87 J%%p Comanche pickup, while trying to >determine it's antifreeze condition we noticed there is no radiator fill >cap. Apparently coolant is added to a plastic bottle at the firewall. >The bottle on this truck has about 3 drops of coolant in it. Can't find >a drain cock on the radiator, does anybody know how to drain, flush and >refill this POS. it does not run hot but nobody knows how much water is >in it. > >Thanx. > >Al Suggest to him that he subscribe to a Jeep mailing list. ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson Subject: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 00:20:52 -0500 The bottom of my box has some dents in it, it appears the previous owners of the truck used it to haul some really heavy stuff before. What can I do to make the inside of the box look nice? I am going to eventually cover the inside with Herculiner but the largish dents will definitely show. I was thinking of maybe doing something like cutting a large piece of particleboard the same size as the bed. I would cut out the wheel wells, etc so it would cover the entire "floor" of the box. After I had it in there, I would apply the Herculiner on top of it. I realize I would have to somehow waterproof the particleboard on the bottom, but does this sound like a good idea? Anyone have any better suggestions? I will be getting a digital camera in a few days so I can provide some pictures on the dents if that would be helpful. Oh, and the rest of the box is in pretty good shape. And I have a roll pan welded to it too, so please don't tell me to find a new box! ;-) ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ------------------------------ From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH Subject: Re: OFF TOPIC Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 21:48:04 -0800 Just for a moment, lets take our minds off our Fords, and say a prayer for the families of those who were taken in such a tragic way. Freedom is a price that those who have never faught for it, will ever truely savor to its fullest extent. And to all those who have given their lives in the line of duty, not just members of the armed forces, but teachers, and students, and police officers, and rescue members we take a moment to say THANK YOU for your sacrifice to make our nation a better place, and to those currently in any role such as the above listed, I personally want to say Thank you for your service and may God bless your lives and that of your family. Keith Price "Pastoral Ministries Student" Anchorage Alaska 71 F250 4wd > The Navy on Friday provided these names of the killed and missing in the > attack on the USS Cole: > >> > Killed: >> > >> > Electronic Technician 1st Class Richard Costelow, Morrisville, Pa. >> > >> > Signalman Seaman Recruit Cheron Ouis Gunn, Rex, Ga. >> > >> > Seaman James Rodrick McDaniels, Norfolk, Va. >> > >> > Seaman Recruit Lakiba Nicole Palmer, San Diego, Calif. >> > >> > Operations Specialist 2nd Class Timothy Lamont Saunders, Ringgold, Va. >> > >> > Ens. Andrew Triplett, Macon, Miss. > >>>Electronics Warfare Technician 2nd Class Kevin Shawn Rux, Portland, N.D. > >Thank you, Ken and the list, for your time. > >Rich > > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: Re: Off Topic Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 04:02:20 -0400 oes anybody know how to drain, flush and > >refill this POS. > >Al ================================================= tell him to buy a ford radiator to stick in it gordon ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 04:08:55 -0400 What can I do to make the inside of the box look nice? I am going to eventually cover the inside with Herculiner but the largish dents will definitely show> ---Garrett ============================================================= i sure wouldnt use particle board in it that would ne worse than the dent really if its just in the center section part of the bed why not just replace the whole center section or just the dented part with a new or used piece by cuttting it out and welding in new metal gordon ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 08:54:52 -0400 From: "O'Connor" <theoconnors Subject: Problem with a '78 Nan, There have several good discussions on the list about this problem. I even made a chart to trouble shoot this problem based on all the input from this list. Unfortunately I lost my copy. It should be in the archives. There was also a short discussion about two weeks ago on the list. There are two catagories for trouble shooting this problem. Does it turn over slow or normal when the engine is hot? Write back with this info and the list should take off from there. Tim 66F100 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:07:09 -0400 From: Don Haring <haring Subject: Bolt won't fit?!#$! I have a seemingly stupid problem. Last weekend I bought an '81 I-6 300 engine to swap into my '66 Club Wagon. I went for broke and even bought an engine hoist and engine stand figuring one can never be shorthanded when it comes to tools. This is the first time I've ever pulled or swapped and engine, so I'm sure I'll have more questions in the coming weeks. Anyway, my main problem is that I can't get any bolts to properly hold the engine on the engine stand. I know, it sounds stupid, but it's driving me CRAZY. I need a 4" bolts for the engine stand arms (to thread into the holes in the engine block for the bellhousing). I figure they are 3/8" course thread bolts. Problem is that when I use this sized bolt, there is some slop and as soon as I begin to lower the hoist, the bolts pop right out as though they are stripped. Not good. But the real headscratcher is that if I take an OEM bolt that matches the diameter and thread pitch of the 4" bolt (it's a bolt that previously held on the large alternator bracket), it fits snug and tight. The same sized nut fits on both bolts just fine. The only thing I can figure is that the 4" 3/8 bolts I bought aren't manufactured to the same tolerances as the OEM bolt and the slight difference is accounting for the slop. I've tried other sized bolts and none fit the engine block. Am I nuts or doing something stupid?! I've had other competant friends take a look and they were all confused as well. I don't have a tap and die set, but will I have to recut the threads to make sure? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, don Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director 61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$! Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:33:38 -0700 All tranny bolts I've ever seen were 7/16" coarse thread (14 th/in if I recall). 3/8 are 16 th/in and a 7/16 nut will thread on them fine due to the extra space in the threads but won't hold beans. Get grade 8, 7/16 and use pipe as bushings to secure it to the arms on the stand. The stand should have come with bushings for this but if not you can use a pipe cutter to make them. Cut them as accurately as you can as to length and squareness for best results. Make sure you are not mixing metric bolts and nuts. All threads on the 61 vintage are SAE, american threads, the 80's vintage had many metric bolts and nuts on them, they are not compatible. Metric thread pitches are typically finer for a given general size range. Happily Totally Retired, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > my main problem is that I can't get any bolts to properly hold the engine > on the engine stand. I know, it sounds stupid, but it's driving me CRAZY. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:37:38 -0400 From: "O'Connor" <theoconnors Subject: North Carolina Connection Does anyone on the list live in the mid North Carolina area. Where are the good junk yards at for sixties F100? I live 30 miles weat of Fayetteville. Tim 66F100 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:46:14 -0400 From: "O'Connor" <theoconnors Subject: 66 Automatic List, I have a 66 F100 with manual transmission. My brother has a 68 with an original automatic transmission in it. Is the 68 the same automatic that was used in the 66? Will the column be the same? My brother is parting out his truck and said I could have the transmission hardware. Would it be the same as original? Tim 66F100 ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: Re: North Carolina Connection Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 10:00:58 -0400 > Does anyone on the list live in the mid North Carolina area. Where are the > good junk yards at for sixties F100? I live 30 miles weat of Fayetteville. > Tim 66F100 > ============================================================= E MAIL me off list untill then check this yard out near you bingman auto inc.7799 highway 49 denton n.c.336-859-5880 ive got a web oage that shows allot of old trucks for you nearby gordon ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: Re: 66 Automatic Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 10:03:50 -0400 Is the 68 the same automatic that > was used in the 66? Will the column be the same? > Tim 66F100 > > ============================================================= they used a few different trannys in the trucks like a cruisomatic -fmx- c-6 and some others but they should all work pretty much the same with just some minor mods is all gordon ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: FW: Problem with a '78 Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 10:00:43 -0700 If it appears to be cranking slowly it is probably due to fuel percolating into the manifold. This is especially likely to be the case if you get some back firing in the process. The apparent hard cranking is due to over rich mixture and engine trying to run backwards along with fuel washing oil off the cylinder walls etc... Ford big blocks typically do this in hot weather. Some say it's the starter and this may be the case as well but I've had trouble like this with all my big fords. The critical timeing for this phenomenon is about 5 minutes after turning it off to about 15 minutes after. Normally outside this range it will start normally if percolation is the problem. I would think the starter over heating problem would require more time to cool but maybe not, haven't looked into that one yet :-) Sounding off after starting may be an indication of another, unrelated problem. Happily Totally Retired, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > I bought a '78 F150, 400 CID, long bed from a friend out of state. The truck > is great! I do have a problem..... it starts fine when cold, but, when I get > to where I'm going and do what has to be done..... the truck will not > start... if I do get it started it sounds off? If I let it sit for an hour > or so it will run great. ------------------------------ From: daves8 Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:29:12 -0600 Subject: Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$! Did you try 7/16" bolts? Sometimes the nuts aren't as exact a fit as they appear to be. Either that or what you think are 3/8" bolts are really metric... The new bolts are the same tolerance as the old ones. I've never seen a problem by something like this. Dave Schoenberg Arvada, Colorado On Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:07:09 -0400 Don Haring <haring >....... bought an '81 I-6 300 > engine to swap into my '66 Club Wagon. ...........can't get any bolts to properly hold the > engine on the engine stand......... I figure they are 3/8" course thread > bolts. Problem is that when I use this sized bolt, there is some > slop .......... if I take an OEM bolt that matches the diameter and thread pitch of the 4" > bolt (it's a bolt that previously held on the large alternator bracket), it > fits snug and tight. The same sized nut fits on both bolts just fine. ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 14:43:40 -0500 Does anyone sell the ribbed metal that will match up with it? Thanks ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: G & J Boling To: 61-79-list Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 3:08 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? What can I do to make the inside of the box look nice? I am going to eventually cover the inside with Herculiner but the largish dents will definitely show> ---Garrett ============================================================= i sure wouldnt use particle board in it that would ne worse than the dent really if its just in the center section part of the bed why not just replace the whole center section or just the dented part with a new or used piece by cuttting it out and welding in new metal gordon ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson Subject: Re: 66 Automatic Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 14:50:09 -0500 I'm not an expert on automatic trannies, but I think it depends on the engine its bolted to. I know some automatics like the C6 have a built in bellhousing, so they will only fit the same family of engine as the tranny was removed from. So if the 68 has the same engine as you do then you are all set. ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: G & J Boling To: 61-79-list Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 9:03 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 66 Automatic Is the 68 the same automatic that > was used in the 66? Will the column be the same? > Tim 66F100 > > ============================================================= they used a few different trannys in the trucks like a cruisomatic -fmx- c-6 and some others but they should all work pretty much the same with just some minor mods is all gordon ------------------------------ From: "Shynkaruk, Steve" <Steve.Shynkaruk Subject: U-Joint Part Numbers Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 14:56:48 -0500 Help. I am having a go-round with one of the local Ford dealers here in Dallas. I am trying to get u-joints for my front driveshaft on a 1977 F150 4X4 SWB ( 351M - 4spd ). The first try netted the u-joints for the front axle and this time I not sure what I got ( PN C3AZ-4635-L and C3AZ-4635-M ). All I know is they don't fit and I am getting tired of driving back and forth to the dealer. Does anyone have a parts book that lists these part numbers so that I may take the guess work out of the parts monkeys hands ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Steve Shynkaruk steve.shynkaruk 1977 F150 SWB 4X4 351M 4spd ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx Subject: fuel pump bad? Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 19:20:04 -0400 I've had two old ones on there, but neither want to PUMP the gas. This is what happens with the two that I've tried: When I'm sucking the gas out of a jar with about a foot of tube between the jar and pump, bubbles come out of the tube in pulses. The level in the jar does not change, and gas goes into the fuel filter in pulses, but does not stay there. What seems to be happening is the gas just gets pumped one way, and then goes back in the other direction. Am I doing something wrong, or are both pumps bad and I'm in need of a new one? -bob- -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce [mailto:61-79-list-bounce Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 9:13 PM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] Re: fuel pump... NOTE: don't weld next to the fuel line I blew the whole rear end out of an old Olds when I was a kid..... thought I had everything under control...... knew it all..... Turns out we were scrapping the car and cutting it up, litterally in half and forgot that the fuel lines run along the frame. There was about a 1/4 tank of fuel in the dang thing and it was parked real close to my dad's favorite birch trees which got a real unhealthy dose of heat and smoke from the flames that went......oh......about 100' in the air!!! Spare tire went flying along with all the junk that was in the trunk and blew the tank right our of it. Fortunately I was in front of it proteced by lots of sheet metal. Then there was the time I was trying to burn a brush pile with ga...... Happily Totally Retired, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > getting to the carb. I found one reason... I welded a hole in a the fuel > line. ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 19:57:58 -0400 Does anyone sell the ribbed metal that will match up with it? > > Thanks > > ---Garrett www.1966ford.com > > ===================================================== i think MILL SUPPLY in cleveland ohio sells the panels and MACS in lockport n.y as well i am pretty sure has them in sections gordon ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: Re: 66 Automatic Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 20:00:08 -0400 > I'm not an expert on automatic trannies, but I think it depends on the engine its bolted to. I know some automatics like the C6 have a built in bellhousing, so they will only fit the same family of engine as the tranny was removed from. So if the 68 has the same engine as you do then you are all set. ================================ they made cruisomatics and FMXs with bell housings for all but maybe the 6 cylinders i think gordon ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 19:01:05 -0500 Do either of those places have a website or a phone number? ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ===================================================== i think MILL SUPPLY in cleveland ohio sells the panels and MACS in lockport n.y as well i am pretty sure has them in sections gordon ------------------------------ From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 Subject: Re: U-Joint Part Numbers Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 19:17:04 -0500 Try http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.carparts.com they show several listings and different brands of ujoints and their part numbers according to your vehicle make and year. I use them to cross reference parts all the time. -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce [mailto:61-79-list-bounce Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 2:57 PM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] U-Joint Part Numbers Help. I am having a go-round with one of the local Ford dealers here in Dallas. I am trying to get u-joints for my front driveshaft on a 1977 F150 4X4 SWB ( 351M - 4spd ). The first try netted the u-joints for the front axle and this time I not sure what I got ( PN C3AZ-4635-L and C3AZ-4635-M ). All I know is they don't fit and I am getting tired of driving back and forth to the dealer. Does anyone have a parts book that lists these part numbers so that I may take the guess work out of the parts monkeys hands ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Steve Shynkaruk steve.shynkaruk 1977 F150 SWB 4X4 351M 4spd ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: Re: What to do about a dented up floor on my box? Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 20:26:35 -0400 > > Do either of those places have a website or a phone number? > > ---Garrett www.1966ford.com > > > ===================================================== YES they all have web sites MACS even has on-line ordering if you want it ive dealt with them and they arent to bad really but i think MILL SUPPLY is cheaper than any of the others i have seen tho gordon ------------------------------ From: "Jason Derra" <derrar Subject: Re: Bolt won't fit?!#$! Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 16:49:12 -0700 Use 7/16" NC bolts. Jason '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435 '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: fuel pump bad? Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 21:18:31 -0700 I hate to state such a simple, unlikely thing but do you have the lines going to the correct port in the pump? Happily Totally Retired, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > I've had two old ones on there, but neither want to PUMP the gas. This is > what happens with the two that I've tried: When I'm sucking the gas out of > a jar with about a foot of tube between the jar and pump, bubbles come out > of the tube in pulses. ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx Subject: Re: fuel pump bad? Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 21:32:30 -0400 Yup. One end is threaded for a pipe fitting, and the other is set up for a rubber hose and clamp. Thanks for the heads up... I'd be kicking myself if that was the case. On the other end, it would be fixed... It would actually be nice if that were the problem, because I may then have a running truck! -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce [mailto:61-79-list-bounce Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 12:19 AM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] Re: fuel pump bad? I hate to state such a simple, unlikely thing but do you have the lines going to the correct port in the pump? Happily Totally Retired, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > I've had two old ones on there, but neither want to PUMP the gas. This is > what happens with the two that I've tried: When I'm sucking the gas out of > a jar with about a foot of tube between the jar and pump, bubbles come out > of the tube in pulses. ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan Subject: Re: fuel pump bad? Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 18:44:59 -0700 > > I've had two old ones on there, but neither want to PUMP the > gas. This is > what happens with the two that I've tried: When I'm sucking > the gas out of > a jar with about a foot of tube between the jar and pump, > bubbles come out > of the tube in pulses. The level in the jar does not change, > and gas goes > into the fuel filter in pulses, but does not stay there. > What seems to be > happening is the gas just gets pumped one way, and then goes > back in the > other direction. Am I doing something wrong, or are both > pumps bad and I'm > in need of a new one? > > -bob- Sounds like one of two things. 1. The check valve in the pump has gone bad and is allowing the pumped gas to return up the feed line. 2. The pump is connected backwards. The pump should have a diaphram in it that acts like a water baloon. The pump lever is connected to the diaphram. When the lever is activated it expands the diaphram and causes it to suck in gas. The check valve prevents the gas from going back up the line. When the lever returns it doesn't force the gas out that is the job of the diaprham, the rod just slips. As the diaprham is now full like a water baloon it puts the approx 6 psi of pressure on the gas and prevents the pump from forcing open the carb float needles. From this description and my own experience, the pump can operate if the output is blocked (normal operation when the carb bowls are full). But if the input is blocked it can rupture the diaphram when the lever tries to actuate it. I would try swapping the hose to the other connection then a new pump from the store. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx Subject: Re: fuel pump bad? Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 22:58:19 -0400 I put the pump back in the same direction and connected it as it had been when I took it out. Previously to welding the line open, it had worked problem free. My guess is I stirred up some debris and ruined both pumps. I'm going to put a fuel filter in front of the pump as well as replace the pump. If this doesn't work, maybe I'll go back to welding the fuel lines and see if I can't blow the tank the next time around! (just kidding...maybe) -bob- ======================================== The check valve in the pump has gone bad and is allowing the pumped gas to return up the feed line. 2. The pump is connected backwards. ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam Subject: Re: frozen e-brake on 61 Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 00:13:58 -0400 I had this problem on my 78. I took an oil can & filled it with tranny fluid and soaked the whole cable from front to back for a couple of days. soak it really good where the cable is inside the outer metal sleeve (cable usually rusts inside the outer sleeve & will not slide back & forth) after soaking for a couple of days,grab ahold of the the outer sleeve & flex it back & forth to help break the rust loose.this worked on the one side on mine but the other one broke --so I went & got new replacement rear cables for mine. the front part of the cable is still good & everything works fine.hope this helps. -----Original Message----- From: Joe <shoman To: ford trucklist61-79 <61-79-list Date: Friday, October 13, 2000 3:40 PM Subject: [61-79-list] frozen e-brake on 61 >Group .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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