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Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 13:49:54 -0400 (EDT)
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 09 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 286

In This Issue:
Re: positive or negative ground???
Neg or Pos grnd
F350 4X4
Speedo 95
Volts coil
Re: Power Steering in old Fords ...was beserk english Tea
Batteries
Decoding A Transfer Case
Re: Batteries
Re: Decoding A Transfer Case
Re: New '79 F-350 in the stable!
Re: New '79 F-350 in the stable!
Re: New '79 F-350 in the stable!
New carpet
Re: Volts coil
tow truck in philly?
shortie and daves U-pull
Re: shortie and daves U-pull
Re: shortie and daves U-pull
Re: was shortie and Daves, now U-pull yards in g
Re: Batteries?
Carb replacement ?
Re: (Was Batteries?) Now: towing costs
Re: (Was Batteries?) Now: towing costs
Re: (Was Batteries?) Now: towing costs
Re: (Was Batteries?) Now: towing costs

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: positive or negative ground???
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 22:19:06 -0500

This subject brings something trivial to mind. Has anyone ever seen a
battery with the terminals stamped wrong? I have a battery in my 78 F150,
and the posts are labeled wrong. I thought this was interesting... No
responses necessary.
Jason Kendrick


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Neg or Pos grnd
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 23:17:46 -0500


Joe writes:  >>61 truck positive or negative grounded????<<

All 12V Fords are Neg gnd.  The pos gnd went out about the same time as the flathead.
I think '53 was the last of the pos gnd.  I'm sure someone will correct me if wrong..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: F350 4X4
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 23:20:23 -0500


Eric F. writes:  >>I'm getting the whole lot for $1200.  Is that a decent deal?<<

Y E S !!!!  A Super deal...

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Speedo 95
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 23:29:51 -0500


Thom B. writes:  >>My speedo needle sits on about 95 at a stop,
and works it's way toward zero when moving.  How do I fix this?<<

Best bet is to locate another speedo in your favorite salvage yard..


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Volts coil
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 23:35:12 -0500


Rich writes:  >>The voltages measured at the coil + terminal were as follows:

Key on engine off, points closed  7 volts....  When I hooked up a jumper
wire from the batt to the coil, the voltage read 12 v

Key on engine off points open 12 v

Cranking the engine over 9.9 volts

Engine running 10.8 - 11 volts

Jeff had a ballast resistor which we could have hooked up, but based on
these voltages, I think his wiring harness already has the resistor wire
installed.  Am I all wet here?  I'm pretty sure the cranking voltage is ok
(9.6 v min if I remember correctly) but what about the others.  Tying to
find another point type ignition to compare voltages around here is proving
difficult.<<

All your measurements seem to be within spec to me...


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 00:12:01 -0700
From: dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net>
Subject: Re: Power Steering in old Fords ...was beserk english Tea



Dennis Pearson wrote:
>  Anyway, I immediately thought of this group and all the help I
> could get if I were to want power steering.  Then I thought again and
> decided I'd better keep it the way it is.  I need all the exercise I can
> get.  I can't imagine how hard to steer the Fordillac will be.

No problem ... my 66 F250 ran on 9.6 x 16.5 in
the front with with both the 351C and the 460 Boss.


> But by  the time I get that on the road, I'll probably want power steering...

The road is no problem , now in toady's tight arse parking decks,
PS might be needed ...

dave " Real men use body power , not hydraulic power :-) " Prasse

>

------------------------------

From: "Phillips" <hosses kootenaycable.com>
Subject: Batteries
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 23:24:25 -0600


Does
> anyone have any input on battery brands that I should
> consider.

The battery that just gave up on me in my 91 was the original Motorcraft. That would make it ten years old ,140K miles, cold winter starting etc. Somebody said they're on sale.

Tom


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 22:50:45 -0700
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman uswest.net>
Subject: Decoding A Transfer Case

I'm looking at a truck with what appears to not be the original frame
and 4x4 setup.  Below are the particulars off of the transfer case.  Can
someone help decode it for me or provide the relative vintage (I'm
guessing 60's or 70's).  BTW, the wheels are 5 lug.  And would anyone be
interested in the frame and 4x4 running gear (less engine).  All I
really would like is the body.

Manufacturer:  Spicer
Serial # 416374
Model # 324
B/M # 300205

The hubs are Warn.

Thanks for your help.
--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net
Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
  (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 00:53:38 -0700
From: dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net>
Subject: Re: Batteries

I'd never run anything but Motorcraft
or Interstate ... in the past 20 yrs of driving I've tried
lots of cheaper batteries in many vehicles
and farm tractors and got what I paid for ...

dave Prasse


Phillips wrote:
>
> Does
> > anyone have any input on battery brands that I should
> > consider.
>
> The battery that just gave up on me in my 91 was the original Motorcraft. That would make it ten years old ,140K miles, cold winter starting etc. Somebody said they're on sale.
>
> Tom
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 06:28:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Decoding A Transfer Case

Tim:

    That looks to be a Dana 24 2-speed transfer case.  Ford used them from
59 right up through 72 or 73.  I don't have any decoding data to pin-point an
exact year.  Did you attempt my previous suggestion to locate a VIN/part no.?

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee


In a message dated 10/10/2000 1:51:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
tkbowman uswest.net writes:

>
>  Manufacturer:  Spicer
>  Serial # 416374
>  Model # 324
>  B/M # 300205
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 05:21:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New '79 F-350 in the stable!

Don,

--- Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com> wrote:
> >   I'm getting the whole lot for $1200.  Is that a
> >decent deal?  I figure that if I parted this out the parts alone could
> be
> >worth close to that price.
>
> H,e double hockey sticks, the Damn front end is worth that much alone

Sorry I really didn't mean to rub it in anyone's face here.  I honestly
don't know what I'm getting.  I've only been on this list for 6 months or
so and I still consider myself a relative newbie regarding Ford Trucks
although I've owned my '78 Bronco for roughly 9 years now.  I've only
started doing my own work on it in the last 2-3 years and that was usually
pretty easy stuff.  Now my latest project is a bit more ambitious but that
hasnt stopped me yet...

So what axles does this have in it or how can I tell?

> >Oh well gotta go.  Just thought I'd share my latest purchase with ya'll
> and.....
>
> Gloat?

Not at all.  But thanks for the good word on it nonetheless.  I'm sure
I'll have more questions for yall on this truck after I bring it home on
Wednesday.

Later,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project STILL in Progress!)
'79 F-350 4x4 (coming soon)
'95 Mustang GT "Beauty"
'98 Honda Shadow 750 ACE
Personal Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=788

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 08:34:23 -0400
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: New '79 F-350 in the stable!

Eric Finn wrote:

> Sorry I really didn't mean to rub it in anyone's face here.  I honestly
> don't know what I'm getting.  I've only been on this list for 6 months or
> so and I still consider myself a relative newbie regarding Ford Trucks
> although I've owned my '78 Bronco for roughly 9 years now.  I've only
> started doing my own work on it in the last 2-3 years and that was usually
> pretty easy stuff.  Now my latest project is a bit more ambitious but that
> hasnt stopped me yet...
>
> So what axles does this have in it or how can I tell?

It has the much coveted high pinion solid dana 60 front. Only made that
style 2 years. It is the only one that can be easily converted to coil
front using 70's 1/2 ton front setup. Prices vary in different parts of
the country, around here yuppies are just dying to get rid of those "old
clunkers" sometimes ;-) I bought my last one (79, 60 front) for 600$ and
got the rest of the 350 for another 200$, so the 60 fronts are worth
some money. The rest of drivetrain is a dime a dozen and not really
worth much at all. If body is trashed, I'd say $1200 is a good deal, but
not absolutely spectacular in this part of the country. If you were real
patient, you could prob part it for 2000$ (if you so chose), but thats a
lot of work and time for 800$. If you need any body parts you don't
already have, try dave and shorties. They usually have tons of 70's
trucks.

                                       OX



--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 06:00:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New '79 F-350 in the stable!

--- Bob <xavetarx home.com> wrote:
>  --"Is that a decent deal?"--
>
> Quite possibly the best deal I've ever heard of.

Ok I guess I get the point here guys.  Remember though that this truck
isn't currently inspected and hasn't been run regularly in two years.  I
figure it'll need some serious TLC before I can get it running regularly
again.  That's where I'll start to need the list's help to get it going
again.  I hope you won't hold this against me...  :-)  If I can figure out
how to get it home this Saturday I'll hopefully be posting some pics and
questions sometime after that.

Bob, Any chance you've got a friend in the Philly area with a tow-truck or
trailer I could use to get this thing back to my house?  Its located near
center city a couple blocks from Ridge Ave. and Broad Street.

Later,

Eric Finn (learning quickly what is and isn't a good deal)
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project still in progress)
'79 F-350 4x4 (coming soon...)

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------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: New carpet
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 13:04:26 GMT

This past weekend I put new carpet into my '73 F100, what a difference.  I
would definitely recommend this to anyone looking to dress up the interior.
I used an aftermarket pre-molded carpet that goes all the way to the back
under the seat.  It makes it cleaner looking, warmer and quieter.  One of
the best $100 I've spent.  Only took about 2 hours to install.

It's got my vote.

Marty
'73 F100 with new carpet (and 'new' heads)
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------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Volts coil
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:32:20 -0700

For points you should be seeing less than battery voltage even with the wire
directly tied to the battery due to the "Load" the coil puts on the wire.
The voltage should drop a volt or two immediately when the coil is shorted
through the points so the average voltage at the coil should be 5-6V, not
10-11 if the resistor wire is hooked up when the engine is running.

If using a ballast resistor you can actually measure the difference from
cold to hot with a multimeter.  Voltage at the coil, when running should
aways be lower then when not running, key on and points closed.

Happily Totally Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Key on engine off, points closed  7 volts....  When I hooked up a jumper
> wire from the batt to the coil, the voltage read 12 v
>
> Key on engine off points open 12 v
>
> Cranking the engine over 9.9 volts
>
> Engine running 10.8 - 11 volts
>
> Jeff had a ballast resistor which we could have hooked up, but based on
> these voltages, I think his wiring harness already has the resistor wire
> installed.  Am I all wet here?  I'm pretty sure the cranking voltage is ok
> (9.6 v min if I remember correctly) but what about the others.


------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: tow truck in philly?
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 12:11:39 -0400

Eric,

I could ask, but I'm not friendly enough with the person to get the job done
for free.  I don't know if he goes into center city or not either (probably
does?).  Where would he be taking the truck to?

-bob-

=============================================
Bob, Any chance you've got a friend in the Philly area with a tow-truck or
trailer I could use to get this thing back to my house?  Its located near
center city a couple blocks from Ridge Ave. and Broad Street.

Later,

Eric Finn (learning quickly what is and isn't a good deal)
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project still in progress)
'79 F-350 4x4 (coming soon...)

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------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: shortie and daves U-pull
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 12:13:48 -0400

OX,
    Do you treck out to shortie and daves often?  That's (Dave) my neighbor
that I'm acquainted with, do you know him?  I've been contemplating getting
a years pass, I've been there so often.

If there's anyone in the Philly area that doesn't know about this place,
it's a heaven for older truck parts.  I almost hate to tell anyone for fear
that my 79 parts will go before I get to'em!

-bob-

=================================================
If you need any body parts you don't
already have, try dave and shorties. They usually have tons of 70's
trucks.

                                       OX



--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)
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Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 11:11:40 -0500
Subject: Re: positive or negative ground???
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> what was Ford's reason for
>
> putting the battery in the floor of the pass side cab????

That was where the battery went on earlier cars. All sorts of stuff was
under the floor boards. My sister's 55 Buick has the master cylinder under
the driver's feet.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 11:19:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Batteries?
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Yes Optima batteries are good. I plan on investing in one of them myself.
> But then again, I will be demanding more from my electrical system than
> most people here (multiple amplifier stereo system). They don't give out
> any fumes, and are completely sealed so they won't leak.

I haven't read everything to arrive on this thread since yesterday, but...be
aware that there is no such thing as a lead-acid battery that doesn't need
electrolyte (water). They can seal 'em, they can disguise 'em, but if your
alternator or generator over charges them and boils the electrolyte dry,
your battery ain't gonna work, no matter what brand. Battery maintenance is
almost as important as crankcase maintenance. If you want long life, buy a
battery with lots of cold crank amps, the longest warranty you can afford,
and vented caps so you can service it regularly. (The more CCA and longer
the warranty, the bigger the plates = more juice.)

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 12:31:00 -0400
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: shortie and daves U-pull

Bob wrote:
>
> OX,
>      Do you treck out to shortie and daves often?

I used to, but it's 2 hours each way. I just buy whole trucks now
LOL!!!

>That's (Dave) my neighbor that I'm acquainted with,

Really??, you must get some killer deals :-).

> do you know him?

Only from seeing him there, if that is him at window.

> I've been contemplating getting a years pass, I've been there so often.

I don't go much anymore. 2 hours each way and bridge toll adds to the
cost.

> If there's anyone in the Philly area that doesn't know about this place,
> it's a heaven for older truck parts.  I almost hate to tell anyone for fear
> that my 79 parts will go before I get to'em!

I hear ya!! Are the mexicans still striping the place to export parts??
They were taking any good body part that was there for a while :-(.

                               OX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 09:47:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: shortie and daves U-pull

--- James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com> wrote:
> >That's (Dave) my neighbor that I'm acquainted with,
>
>  Really??, you must get some killer deals :-).

Yeah any way to share the wealth with other Philly area people so to
speak?  :-)  Do you get in for free or just get free parts or somethin?
:-)

> > I've been contemplating getting a years pass, I've been there so
> often.
>
>  I don't go much anymore. 2 hours each way and bridge toll adds to the
> cost.

Especially when you don't know what you'll find once you get there.  It
could be a rather expensive wild goose chase.  I wish they'd at least keep
a list of what trucks are currently in the yard.  Its a pain to pay your
way in only to find they don't have anything you were looking for.

> > If there's anyone in the Philly area that doesn't know about this
> place,
> > it's a heaven for older truck parts.  I almost hate to tell anyone for
> fear
> > that my 79 parts will go before I get to'em!
>
>  I hear ya!! Are the mexicans still striping the place to export parts??
>
> They were taking any good body part that was there for a while :-(.

I gotta admit that the last time I was there about two months ago I didn't
find much in the way of 70's Fords.  Twas kinda disappointing.  They only
had two broncos of any year.  They always seem to have more Chu**ies than
Fords.  Maybe cause the Fords are all still running...  :-)

Actually Bob if you need any front body parts I've probably got an extra
or two laying around.  Just give me a holler.

Later,

Eric Finn

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------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: was shortie and Daves, now U-pull yards in g
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:01:59 -0700

>Especially when you don't know what you'll find once you get there.  It
>could be a rather expensive wild goose chase.  I wish they'd at least keep
>a list of what trucks are currently in the yard.  Its a pain to pay your
>way in only to find they don't have anything you were looking for.

What does it cost to get in, a buck or two?  Heck, the hunt is half the fun.
Sometimes you score (I got a pair of useable side hood emblems and the
F-O-R-D emblems off the front of a '67 for dad for $5) and sometimes you
walk away empty handed.  That's just part of the game. If they went to the
time and trouble to inventory the yard (yards here tried to), it would drive
up the cost of parts.  Especially if the yard is large and turning cars over
often.

>  I hear ya!! Are the mexicans still striping the place to export parts??
>
> They were taking any good body part that was there for a while :-(.

This happens here too (although I don't see it so much anymore).  You'd go
in and see stacks of sheet metal set off to the side...


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Batteries?
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:28:43 -0700

> If you want long life, buy a
battery with lots of cold crank amps, the longest warranty you can afford,
and vented caps so you can service it regularly. (The more CCA and longer
the warranty, the bigger the plates = more juice.)

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)

Amen!  I have 2 1100CCA batteries in my E150.
When I was working behind the parts counter, it never ceased to amaze me how
some people wanted to "cheap out" on their batteries, asking for "the
cheapest you have" or often asking for batteries (the $39 special that was
fine for an old Datsun with no accessories, but nowhere near enough for a
Cadillac) with CCA ratings below what the OEM had supplied.  Had people yell
at me for telling them they shouldn't buy the battery as it was substandard
for their application.  Truly amazing.

If you can't get it started, nothing else much matters does it?  The
difference between the super cheapo battery and the top-of-the-line battery
is usually about 40 bucks or less.  First time the tow truck comes out,
you've spent that $40 at least...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 12:42:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Batteries?
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> If you can't get it started, nothing else much matters does it?  The
> difference between the super cheapo battery and the top-of-the-line battery
> is usually about 40 bucks or less.  First time the tow truck comes out,
> you've spent that $40 at least...

You can't even wave to a tow truck around here for $40. Figure on $100
minimum, plus mileage if you get towed anywhere.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: Carb replacement ?
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 13:40:55 -0400

---------------------------


From: David Law
Subject: carb for 223 six again ('63 f-100)



I'm taking the suggestion made in several replies to the recent query made
to this list by Dan:
Dave asked:
I have a '63 F-100. It has a 223 straight-six engine. I am thinking
about
replacing the carburator. It's old. I rebuilt it. It's leaky.
========================================================

Dave, you have a couple of options. If you want to stay " stock" you can
purchase a rebuilt carb using your old one as a core. You might also check
with Holley and see if they make a bolt on replacement; they do for some,
but I don't know about that one. Another option is a carb adapter, that
would permit a later model carb to bolt to your intake. Then you could also
go with an aftermarket intake if anybody made one, that would permit a later
carb too. Good luck, Phil










------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:54:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (Was Batteries?) Now: towing costs

Wow, that's pricy.  I just had my Bronco towed home yesterday after
working on it at my buddies house since March and I was charged $35 to
start the truck and $2.50 a mile.  All told it cost me $50 for four miles
and a tip to the driver.  What do you get towed with a Mercedes wrecker?
:-)

Later,

Eric Finn

--- John LaGrone <jlagrone ford-trucks.com> wrote:
> > First time the tow truck comes out, you've spent that $40 at least...
>
> You can't even wave to a tow truck around here for $40. Figure on $100
> minimum, plus mileage if you get towed anywhere.


__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 13:02:29 -0500
Subject: Re: (Was Batteries?) Now: towing costs
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Wow, that's pricy.  I just had my Bronco towed home yesterday after
> working on it at my buddies house since March and I was charged $35 to
> start the truck and $2.50 a mile.  All told it cost me $50 for four miles
> and a tip to the driver.  What do you get towed with a Mercedes wrecker?
> :-)
>
> Later,
>
> Eric Finn
>
> --- John LaGrone <jlagrone ford-trucks.com> wrote:
>> > First time the tow truck comes out, you've spent that $40 at least...
>>
>> You can't even wave to a tow truck around here for $40. Figure on $100
>> minimum, plus mileage if you get towed anywhere.

No, the wrecker owners are in good with the city, as are the new home
builders. Anybody but the citizens. A lot of the wreckers are F series, but
alas, they have to be less than 5 years old to get a license to operate for
hire. The old ones are all private. The oldest one I know of is a 36 Dodge.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: daves8 juno.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 12:23:26 -0600
Subject: Re: (Was Batteries?) Now: towing costs

Get AAA.  The hookup and the first four miles are free.  Costs $45.00 per
year.  They'll tow you, they'll bring you gas if you run out, locksmith
if you lock yourself out.  It applies to any car you're in -- even as a
passenger.

Hard to beat.

I don't think they'll tow you off the Rubicon, though.   :-)

Dave Schoenberg
Arvada, Colorado

On Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:54:12 -0700 (PDT) Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
writes:
> Wow, that's pricy.  I just had my Bronco towed home yesterday after
> working on it at my buddies house since March and I was charged $35 to
> start the truck and $2.50 a mile.  All told it cost me $50 for four
miles
> and a tip to the driver.......
________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: daves8 juno.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 12:23:26 -0600
Subject: Re: (Was Batteries?) Now: towing costs

Get AAA.  The hookup and the first four miles are free.  Costs $45.00 per
year.  They'll tow you, they'll bring you gas if you run out, locksmith
if you lock yourself out.  It applies to any car you're in -- even as a
passenger.

Hard to beat.

I don't think they'll tow you off the Rubicon, though.   :-)

Dave Schoenberg
Arvada, Colorado

On Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:54:12 -0700 (PDT) Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
writes:
> Wow, that's pricy.  I just had my Bronco towed home yesterday after
> working on it at my buddies house since March and I was charged $35 to
> start the truck and $2.50 a mile.  All told it cost me $50 for four
miles
> and a tip to the driver.......
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 13:39:33 -0500
Subject: Re: (Was Batteries?) Now: towing costs
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Get AAA.  The hookup and the first four miles are free.  Costs $45.00 per
> year.  They'll tow you, they'll bring you gas if you run out, locksmith
> if you lock yourself out.  It applies to any car you're in -- even as a
> passenger.
>
> Hard to beat.
>
> I don't think they'll tow you off the Rubicon, though.   :-)
>
> Dave Schoenberg
> Arvada, Colorado

Good advice if you expect to be towed. I have had towing on my car insurance
for 25 years and haven't been towed by a tow truck yet. A chain and a little
brother or a son are the cheapest. I haven't been towed at all since I
started driving the blue oval.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: (Was Batteries?) Now: towing costs
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 13:47:29 -0500

I have only been towed once in a ford.. and it was in my 1987 ford mustang
gt when the fuel pump went on it becuase of bad gas that was being used in
it previously.  (note to self *or anyone else* don't fill up when there's a
gas truck at the gas station)

-Don

> > Get AAA.  The hookup and the first four miles are free.  Costs $45.00
per
> > year.  They'll tow you, they'll bring you gas if you run out, locksmith
> > if you lock yourself out.  It applies to any car you're in -- even as a
> > passenger.
> >
> > Hard to beat.
> >
> > I don't think they'll tow you off the Rubicon, though.   :-)
> >
> > Dave Schoenberg
> > Arvada, Colorado
>
> Good advice if you expect to be towed. I have had towing on my car
insurance
> for 25 years and haven't been towed by a tow truck yet. A chain and a
little
> brother or a son are the cheapest. I haven't been towed at all since I
....


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