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Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 12:18:23 -0400 (EDT)
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sun, 08 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 283

In This Issue:
Re: 74 390 with a torn up push rod
Re: 351M
Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleetside
Re: Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleetside
Re: Styleside or Fleetside
Re: HARD TO START
390 push rod
What flexplate?? '78 300 to '83 302HO - C6 trans
Re: What flexplate?? '78 300 to '83 302HO - C6 trans
Re: 1979 F-250 parts
56 F100 Serial #'s Help
my 62 and trucks i crew for
speedometer
Manuals found on e-bay
new truck
Daily Driver
Starter heat shields
Re: emissions control Now cost of smog pump
Re: Manuals found on e-bay
Re: Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ
Re: speedometer
Re: Gas burps from rear tank
Re: Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ
Burps fuel out
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: speedometer
Re: speedometer
pUSH ROD DESTROYED
Y Blocks
New option...
Re: New option...
Re: 74 390 with a torn up push rod
Re: pUSH ROD DESTROYED
Re: emissions control Now cost of smog pump
Re: New option...
Are there any 61-66 truck owners out there?
"outside of frame" headers

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 74 390 with a torn up push rod
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 14:13:33 -0700

A little more info?  Was the valve and spring intact?  Was the rocker itself
in good shape?  Is the push rod bent?

I've seen them come apart because a valve keeper gave up, dropped the valve
and left the rocker flopping in the breeze which also allowed the push rod
to come out.  Sometimes it's hard to determine which one happened first
though.

On FE's one possibility is a stuck lifter plunger too.  My 352 used to
chatter like mad due to stuck lifters but never lost a push rod over it.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> 1.  What would cause a push rod to do this???
>
> 2.  I am assuming that it would be a good idea to take the intake off and
see what is up with the lifter correct?
>
> 3.  What else should I look for while I am at it???????



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:10:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 351M

Don,

I agree with Bill Beyer, build it as a 400. With a 400
crank and the Ohio Flattop pistons(9:1CR). You may
need hardened valve seats as well, depending on the
Year of the motor. I have a '72 400 (+.0300) with the
Ohio Pistons and '71 4V Cleveland heads(hardened valve
seats, Manley valves, roller rockers, and hardened
pushrods). I have a Crane 278/292 Cam, a 750 CFM
Carter, Edelbrock Performer, Mallory Unilite Dist,
Holley Annihilator CD unit, Sanderson Headers,
Flowmasters. This build may be more aggressive than
you need. I have 10.2:1 CR and significant valve
timing overlap. This produces great power above 2500
RPM, but may suffer at lower RPM. Also gas mileage is
about 8/10 MPG with a 3.25:1 rear end ratio. Pump gas
of 92 Octane or better is also mandtory. If you stay
with the factory heads and a high lift cam with little
overlap, you should be happy with the results, and you
will avoid many of the problems that I encountered.
The one problem you may have is to find suitable
headers to fit the 351M/400 heads.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V

> From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
> Subject: 351M
> Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 15:00:22 -0500
>
> Well i just dug out a 351M out of a junk yard for
> $10 bucks (gotta love
> knowing the owners).
> Anyways.  I'm gonna rebuild it and throw it in my
> truck (currently has a
> 351M in it).  I looked for a 460 but no luck :-(
>
> I'm just looking for any recomendations for how
> about going on to rebuild
> it? Like what should i all have done to it?
>
> My plans so far. (after tearing it apart. heh duh)
>
> I'm gonna have the block bored .030 over.
> I"m gonna get a weiland intake # 8010.
> A holley 700 CFM # 0-4778S
> I don't know what kinda cam i want though yet...
> grrr i really don't know
> what to chose either.
>
> So what you guys think?
>
> -Don
>


__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: "Dutch." <dutchman esatclear.ie>
Subject: Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleetside
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 21:32:58 +0100

Thanks for that Garrett. To be honest with you I've presumed that
"Fleetside" or "Styleside" are one and the same ie. not "Stepside". However,
maybe the list could put us both right on this one!

Dutch - "Flyin' the F100 flag in Ireland"!

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleets
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 18:44:32 -0500

Is fleetside the same as styleside? Sorry... can't remember all these terms
and keep them straight sometimes.

I have 275/60SR15's on 15x8 inch wheels in the back of my 66 F100 styleside.
On the front I have 215/70SR15's on 15x7 inch wheels. I could go a little
bigger in the back, and quite a bit bigger in the front still. My truck is 2
wheel drive and also has a stock suspension.

Hope that helps.



------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:24:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleetside

In a message dated 10/8/00 4:34:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dutchman esatclear.ie writes:

<< To be honest with you I've presumed that
"Fleetside" or "Styleside" are one and the same ie. not "Stepside". However,
maybe the list could put us both right on this one! >>

I believe, the Ford term is Styleside.  Ch*vies are Fleetside.   Didn't we
have this discussion a while back with the Stepside vs Flareside debate?  :o)


~Mel
Marietta, GA
1965 F100 Custom Cab...Styleside :o)
1989 Bronco XLT
ICQ#84544993
Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line...
Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It.

------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:30:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Styleside or Fleetside

In a message dated 10/8/00 5:26:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, EffieFrd aol.com
writes:

<< << To be honest with you I've presumed that
 "Fleetside" or "Styleside" are one and the same ie. not "Stepside". However,
 maybe the list could put us both right on this one! >>

I believe, the Ford term is Styleside.  Ch*vies are Fleetside.   Didn't we
have this discussion a while back with the Stepside vs Flareside debate?
:o) >>

Guess I shoulda changed the subject line the first time.  :o)

-mel

------------------------------

From: "paul williams" <williams22470 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: HARD TO START
Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 14:41:38 PDT


   Jeffery Hansen wrote:

Sorry, but I haven't seen in your post just what you mean by "Hard to
Start".  Slow turning over, turning over fine but not firing, etc.

   Jeff,
My original post was several days ago but here is a quick look at my
problem......   Truck starts great when it is cold or has only been running
for a few minutes...... Once the thermostat has opened and the engine is
fully warm it wont start very easy if it sets for about 10 minutes, however
it will start right back up if I try it immediately. From what I have
gathered from the list (BTW folks, my hat is off to you!) this sounds like
'heat soak'.  I will be putting a phenolic spacer on next weekend to see if
I can can the heat factor down.
                                                                     I'llbe
honest here, I don't read each and every one where there is a plethera of
discussion, i.e. Duralube-vs-STP-vs-Slick 50, -vs- saving your money,
K&N-vs-paper, etc., etc.

 Me either.... Im here for the tech help: Each to his own when it comes to
personal preference!

When I first rebuilt the Muny Pit I was having
a
heck of a time with it too.  It didn't want to fire back up when shutdown
in the summer heat.  The fuel line on the truck came up the frame rail,past
the headers, up the front of the block, across the top of the engine into to
carb.

Same routing as mine but I still use the mechanical pump, might try an
electric pump and re-routing the line if the spacer doesnt work.

Because it has an electric fuel pump mounted at the tank - I replaced
and rerouted the fuel line to come up the back between the transmission and
firewall, put it inside 4 foot of 3/4 heater hose about 3 inches fromthe
carb on down and (sshhhh here everybody) haven't had a lick of trouble since

   LMAO..... Sorry 'bout that but I have read of your travails w/ the "Muny
Pit" and couldn't help myself!

- well - lick of trouble in not wanting to start when at temp.______

   Hey, at least you have that problem fixed.....   Thanks again!

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 15:28:56 -0700
From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: 390 push rod

>>2.  I am assuming that it would be a good idea to take the intake off and
see what is up with the lifter correct?

Try a lifter removal tool or lifter magnet first.The removal tool fits
into
the end of the lifter and expands.Lifter magnet works OK too.
No guarantee but one of these might save pulling the infamous FE intake.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 18:09:41 -0500
From: jcarbone <jcarbone bellsouth.net>
Subject: What flexplate?? '78 300 to '83 302HO - C6 trans

I have a '78 F-100 300ci 6 with a C6 auto. I will be replacing the 6 with a rebuilt
'83 5.0L HO w/4bbl. (stock set-up) and reuse my C6 auto.

What flexplate do I need? I know that the 5.0/302 is externally balanced.
What is the correct balance weight? A local salvage yards has some early
'80s V8 F-series trucks. Can I use a flexpalte form one of these? What year the the balance weight change?

Thanks,

John


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: What flexplate?? '78 300 to '83 302HO - C6 trans
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 19:49:37 -0400



> I have a '78 F-100 300ci 6 with a C6 auto. I will be replacing the 6 with
a rebuilt
> '83 5.0L HO w/4bbl. (stock set-up) and reuse my C6 auto.
>
> What flexplate do I need? I know that the 5.0/302 is externally balanced.
> What is the correct balance weight? A local salvage yards has some early
> '80s V8 F-series trucks. Can I use a flexpalte form one of these?
=====================================================
i used a 6 cylinder flywheel on my 79 302 and had to remove the balance
weights from the flywheel
gordon



------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 19:45:41 EDT
Subject: Re: 1979 F-250 parts

I may have a buyer on the PS box.  If he does not go for it, I'll put it on
EBAY.  I'll let the list know either way.  I also checked the axel
ratio...they are 3:54 ratio and open diffs.  The 4 speed is a NP435 and a
NP205 combo.  It is setup for a straight 6 (300), but will fit a 302 also.
If anybody is interested...let me know.  Thanks Again!!!  Wayne Grabley
(Clifton, New Jersey)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 20:03:03 -0700
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman uswest.net>
Subject: 56 F100 Serial #'s Help

Today I looked at a '56 F100 with 4 wheel drive that the seller thought
was a Marmon Harrington unit.  Upon closer inspection, it appeared to me
that the frame and 4 wheel drive were out of a mid 60's pickup.  The
only tags I could find on the transfer case were marked as follows:

Serial # 416374
Model 24
B/M 300205

The front knuckles were totally enclosed with no u-joints showing.
There are warn hubs in the front axles.  The 4 speed transmission has a
parking brake on the rear of it which I believe is out of a big truck.
The rear end has no rear cover plate and a very oval shape compared to
the round shape I'm used to seeing on Ford 9"  Also, the steering box is
mounted on the frame with which appears to be factory notched area with
a u-joint to fasten to the steering shaft which I believe is not correct
for a 56.

As far as the cab is concerned, it had no M/H marker plate and has the
following ID#'s on the Factory ID plate:
F10D6G35874
WB = 110
Color = W

Could someone decode it for me.  I know that the F10 stands for F100,
and the 35874 is the sequential #.  I believe 110 was the short
wheelbase.

Thanks for your assistance.

--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net
Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
  (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)



------------------------------

From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
Subject: my 62 and trucks i crew for
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 22:14:17 -0500

Here is a link to pics of my 62 f100 unibody and the 95 f250 and the 40
ford  These two trucks are the ones I work on so they can go play.Let me
know what you think of site   off list  would be best
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/davidl12293/index.htm thanks  fellow ford lovers


------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: speedometer
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 23:56:30 -0500

I'm planning on taking the dash apart on my '78 F150 to replace a couple of
burnt out bulbs. While it's apart, is there anything I can do to keep my
speedo from sticking? It won't read anything untill I reach about 20 mph,
unless I whack the dash. It'll read slower than that, but most of the time,
it only sticks when I make a complete stop. And by the way, the number one
cylinder on a 460 is front-passenger, right? Thanks,
Jason Kendrick


------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Manuals found on e-bay
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 07:18:13 -0400

While wandering through e-bay this morning I found these manuals. I have no
ties or affiliations, just thought I would pass along the information for
anyone interested:

John
'77F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 08:26:32 -0500
From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: new truck

Hey, Folks

I did it. I went to the AACA show at Hershey and bought another truck. This
one is cherry. It is a '67 two-tone camper special, ranger trim, with a
352, FMX auto, power brakes, aux tank, new tires and paint, tinted glass,
and 61,000 original miles.

That makes three total. Now two are for sale.

Doss Halsey

'67 camper special - cherry

'68 camper special - don't jump yet - I haven't figured out what to do with
the newly rebuilt 390 4V that is in it. I have some people in line for it
already.

'72 camper special - this one is interesting - 360 2V, C-6, power disk
brakes, Onan motor-generator under the hood, new seat, low original miles
(<80K), solid underbody, red in color. A trip to the body shop and this
could be a really sweet vehicle. Truck is located in Charlottesville, VA.
Let me know if anyone is interested.



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Daily Driver
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 08:41:45 -0500


John LaG. writes:  >>I turned over 80k original miles yesterday. A
daily driver is one that goes almost every day.<<

Are you telling us that you have a '79 F150 with only 80K miles on it??

If I didn't need a truck anymore than that, I'd walk.  I need the exercise anyway...
John - I'm only kidding you, as I have a family car that is an '87 and only has
60K miles on it..  However when I do go someplace in it, I usually don't have to
worry about getting it out of warmup mode.  I just don't go very much in it.
Not, by any stretch of the imigination, a daily driver.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Starter heat shields
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 08:44:03 -0500


Clare writes:  >>do those starter heat shields really work?  <<

Yes!!!  They really work...

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 06:46:01 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: emissions control Now cost of smog pump

UH...? I have read that the depletion of the ozone layer will expose the
human race to deadly gases which will ultimately lead to an inability to
use periods, commas and capital letters, as well as a loss of the
ability to shift our Ford trucks smoothly. (Pretty slick FTE content,
right?)


G & J Boling wrote:

> I DO
> a good pre emission system working right will put out Less pollution than
> this new junk does
> by the way have any of you thought of this OZONE layer garbage they are
> trying to shove down our throats well electric motors put out Ozone with as
> many of them as there is i cant see where this shortage should be
> gordon
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 10:02:47 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Manuals found on e-bay

At 07:18 AM 10/9/00, you wrote:
>While wandering through e-bay this morning I found these manuals. I have no
>ties or affiliations, just thought I would pass along the information for
>anyone interested:
-snip-
>John
>'77F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's

John, if you had looked on the FTE web site you would have found
the same items that business is advertising in our store plus
another 200 titles.  And our store pays for this list.... :-)

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 13:19:48 GMT
Subject: Re: speedometer

>While it's apart, is there anything I can do to keep my
>speedo from sticking? It won't read anything untill I reach about 20 mph,
>unless I whack the dash. It'll read slower than that, but most of the time,

>it only sticks when I make a complete stop.

Try lubing the speedometer cable ... is it bouncing when its cold out too ?
That's a sure sign of the speedo cable getting a bit dry and sticky ... you're
not supposed to oil the head of the speedometer they tell me, but they didn't
tell me til after I oiled it and I have had no ill effects that I can tell after
4 years of use.


> And by the way, the number one
>cylinder on a 460 is front-passenger, right?

Should be, but a sure fire way to find out is to look at the intake manifold,
its got the numbers cast into it if its the original one.  Also the dist. should
have a wire marked number one, though it sounds like people somewhat regularly
shift that if they have the dizzy in wrong.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 13:22:31 GMT
Subject: Re: Gas burps from rear tank

>Gas held in large, in  ground tanks is very cold and compacted due to temp
>but when pumped out into the tank and the tank sits in the sun light it
>warms up considerably
> but I wouldn't expect a couple of gallons to come out even in
>the Sahara??
>

My thoughts too Gary ... I wonder if there is a siphon taking place between
the higher front tank and the lower rear tank for some reason ?  Like a faulty
tank switch ... is the truck a CA truck that might have some re-circulation
setup on it ?  Or is it possible the switch is not fully set on one tank or
the other allowing the pressure to backfeed fuel from one tank to the other
?

Is it really several gallons or just an okay sized spot on the driveway ?


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 07:19:33 -0700
From: "John MacNamara" <jmacnamara zhone.com>
Subject: Re: Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ

I need the XLT trim piece around the glove box.  Is this one in good shape?

Thanks
John

Dennis Pearson wrote:

>
>   There's even a small tree growing in the bed!!  I don't have
> >  any fixed prices YET...but give me a shot!!!  Thanks Again >>
>
> If the truck lived in CA, you wouldn't be able to remove it...You'd just
> have to drive around with a tree growing out of your Ford truck...I hope
> it's not a lemon tree...
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Burps fuel out
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 09:17:56 -0500


Steve S. writes:  >>I have a '78 F250 with dual factory tanks.  If I fill both tanks full, the
rear will burp several gallons out during the night.  Any ideas why?<<

My guess is a bad valve allowing the front tank to slowly leak into the rear tank.  It is
very easy to change out, and not really that expensive from your local Motor Home (RV)
dealer..


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 13:27:03 GMT
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner

>I remember those filters leaving the carb squeaky clean, like new.  If you
>look at the applications they were used on though you may see that they were

>mostly on 2v, low volume applications (trucks

Actually they were used on EVERYTHING for many many years before the paper elements
became popular ... we've got a 57 Olds at home that has the J-2 (3 deuce) option
added to it, we also managed to pick up an original "bat wing" air cleaner for
it ... this is basically 2 oil bath air filters hung on either side of the motor
...with oil in both it ain't the lightest thing, and its the first thing you
have to remove to work on ANYTHING in that engine compartment ...

I thought I had a pic, but can't find one very quickly .... sorry.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: speedometer
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 09:36:22 -0500

wish wrote;

> Try lubing the speedometer cable

What kind of lube should I use? Graphite? Petroleum based?
Jason



------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:39:14 EDT
Subject: Re: speedometer

Isn't there a special lube made just for speedo cables?

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: pUSH ROD DESTROYED
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 09:58:27 -0500


Keith Srb writes:  >>  I have a 74 F-250 with a 390 4V in it.  One day, going to work, I exited the freeway and came up to a stop light.  The engine was running on 7 cylinders.  After checking all of the little things first and having no luck, I took the valve covers off today.  Well I found the push rod for the intake on the number 2 cylinder wasn't any where near the rocker arm.  It was just kinda laying off to the side.  I pulled the push rod out and found the bottom end to be torn up and some metal missing.  Now I have some questions.<<

Sorry about the bad luck..

>>1.  What would cause a push rod to do this???  <<

Usually over revving it, but in your case I doubt that.  Possibly just a
defective pushrod..  Could be a valve that has too little clearance in the
guide area, but that isn't likely in an FE..  They usually have excessive
clearances here.  Did you have new valve guides installed (or bronze bushed)???..

2.  I am assuming that it would be a good idea to take the intake off and see what is up with the lifter correct?

That would be my next step.

3.  What else should I look for while I am at it???????

Remove oil pan and look for metalic derbis there...clean thouroughly - inspect
screen on pickup tube for same..
After getting it running again, change the oil rather frequently for the 1st couple of times..
Do not want those metal particles getting into bearings...

Good luck,
Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Y Blocks
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:02:11 -0500


Jow writes:  >>Anybody out here on the list know the Y Block motors?????<<

Somewhat...  Fire away!!!!


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Mike Mackie" <bigred connect.ab.ca>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 09:20:55 -0600
Subject: New option...

Hey, did you guys hear about ch*vs new heated tailgate option for trucks sold
in the northern states? Keeps the guys pushing from freezing their hands....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 08:31:17 -0700
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: New option...

>Hey, did you guys hear about ch*vs new heated tailgate option for trucks sold
>in the northern states? Keeps the guys pushing from freezing their hands....

That was cold!  Really cold.
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 08:58:41 -0700
From: Keith Srb <herbie ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 74 390 with a torn up push rod

At 02:13 PM 10/08/2000 -0700, you wrote:
>A little more info?  Was the valve and spring intact?  Was the rocker itself
>in good shape?  Is the push rod bent?

Valve and Spring intact.  rocker intact. compression on this cylinder was
130 PSI on a cold engine.  All cylinders within 2 percent of each other on
compression test.  I forgot to check the rocker shaft for excess wear,
otherwise the rocker shaft was intact.


> > 1.  What would cause a push rod to do this???
> >
> > 2.  I am assuming that it would be a good idea to take the intake off and
>see what is up with the lifter correct?
> >
> > 3.  What else should I look for while I am at it???????
>
>
>=============================================================
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>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 09:01:09 -0700
From: Keith Srb <herbie ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: pUSH ROD DESTROYED

At 09:58 AM 10/09/2000 -0500, you wrote:

>Keith Srb writes:  >>  I have a 74 F-250 with a 390 4V in it.  One day,
>going to work, I exited the freeway and came up to a stop light.  The
>engine was running on 7 cylinders.  After checking all of the little
>things first and having no luck, I took the valve covers off today.  Well
>I found the push rod for the intake on the number 2 cylinder wasn't any
>where near the rocker arm.  It was just kinda laying off to the side.  I
>pulled the push rod out and found the bottom end to be torn up and some
>metal missing.  Now I have some questions.<<
>
>Sorry about the bad luck..
>
> >>1.  What would cause a push rod to do this???  <<
>
>Usually over revving it, but in your case I doubt that.  Possibly just a
>defective pushrod..  Could be a valve that has too little clearance in the
>guide area, but that isn't likely in an FE..  They usually have excessive
>clearances here.  Did you have new valve guides installed (or bronze
>bushed)???..

Was running about 70 on the freeway.  About 3200 RPM with the rear end
gears in it.


>3.  What else should I look for while I am at it???????
>
>Remove oil pan and look for metalic derbis there...clean thouroughly -
>inspect
>screen on pickup tube for same..
>After getting it running again, change the oil rather frequently for the
>1st couple of times..
>Do not want those metal particles getting into bearings...

Thanks!

Keith


------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: emissions control Now cost of smog pump
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 11:25:57 -0500


LOL!

---Garrett www.1966ford.com
 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Dennis Pearson
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 8:46 AM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: emissions control Now cost of smog pump


 UH...? I have read that the depletion of the ozone layer will expose the
 human race to deadly gases which will ultimately lead to an inability to
 use periods, commas and capital letters, as well as a loss of the
 ability to shift our Ford trucks smoothly. (Pretty slick FTE content,
 right?)


 G & J Boling wrote:

 > I DO
 > a good pre emission system working right will put out Less pollution than
 > this new junk does
 > by the way have any of you thought of this OZONE layer garbage they are
 > trying to shove down our throats well electric motors put out Ozone with as
 > many of them as there is i cant see where this shortage should be
 > gordon
 >
 =============================================================
 To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
 Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: New option...
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 11:28:34 -0500


Yes, but funny!

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Don Grossman
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 10:31 AM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: New option...


 >Hey, did you guys hear about ch*vs new heated tailgate option for trucks sold
 >in the northern states? Keeps the guys pushing from freezing their hands....

 That was cold!  Really cold.
 --
 Don Grossman
 duckdon mac.com
 =============================================================
 To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
 Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 09:58:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel Mandernack <danatgm_1999 yahoo.com>
Subject: Are there any 61-66 truck owners out there?

Joe,
I've got a stock '63 F100 4x4.  This list does seem to
get dominated by owners of the later vintages.
Especially those who like to modify their trucks to
death.  If it was good enough for Ford in '63, it's
good enough for me.  If I wanted a new truck I'd just
go out and buy one.  I'd like to see a list just for
the '61-'66's with an emphasis on restoration so I
wouldn't have to wade through all the stuff about smog
equipment and K&N airfilters (my oil bath has worked
just fine for 37 years, thank you).
Dan (and yes I do work at GM)



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