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Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 12:09:50 -0400 (EDT)
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sat, 07 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 282

In This Issue:
Re: Pitman Arm
Re: Pitman Arm
351M
Re: 351M
Re: 351M
Re: 351M
Re: Pitman Arm
Re: Daily Drivers
Re: Agreement......:-)
Re: Fw: Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleets
74 390 with a torn up push rod
Re: Starting Electrics?
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: Gas burps from rear tank
Y Block Question
Re: Y Block Question
novice's question on power
Re: novice's question on power
Re: novice's question on power
Re: emissions control
Re: Hard to restart when hot...
F-250 parts
Goofy Gas Gauge
Re: Monroe
Re: Y Block Question
HARD TO START
Re: 74 390 with a torn up push rod
Re: (was emissions control) Now VIN's
Fw: Y Block Question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Pitman Arm
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 15:35:47 -0700

F250 and 150 use the same sector shaft but the tapered pin in the tie rod
may be larger with the 250, not sure so a drop arm for a 150 may work on a
250.  The dropped arms are made for 4x4 applications and won't work on a 2wd
application due to the above problem.  4" drops are available most parts
stores but may have to be ordered.  Last one I bought cost $75 or so.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Hey your not alone.  Since I lifted my F250 the factory one don't cut it
> anymore. I've around and ain't been able to locate one.  Would really
> appreciate any help.



------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: Pitman Arm
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 14:46:49 -0500

wouldn't the jcwhitney pitarm work then? because it's ment for lift
applications.
here's the link again....

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=59996

hope it works this time?
it's meant for 4in or 6in suspension lifts...

-Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 5:35 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Pitman Arm


> F250 and 150 use the same sector shaft but the tapered pin in the tie rod
> may be larger with the 250, not sure so a drop arm for a 150 may work on a
> 250.  The dropped arms are made for 4x4 applications and won't work on a
2wd
> application due to the above problem.  4" drops are available most parts
> stores but may have to be ordered.  Last one I bought cost $75 or so.
>
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)
>
> > Hey your not alone.  Since I lifted my F250 the factory one don't cut it
> > anymore. I've around and ain't been able to locate one.  Would really
> > appreciate any help.
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: 351M
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 15:00:22 -0500

Well i just dug out a 351M out of a junk yard for $10 bucks (gotta love
knowing the owners).
Anyways.  I'm gonna rebuild it and throw it in my truck (currently has a
351M in it).  I looked for a 460 but no luck :-(

I'm just looking for any recomendations for how about going on to rebuild
it? Like what should i all have done to it?

My plans so far. (after tearing it apart. heh duh)

I'm gonna have the block bored .030 over.
I"m gonna get a weiland intake # 8010.
A holley 700 CFM # 0-4778S
I don't know what kinda cam i want though yet... grrr i really don't know
what to chose either.

So what you guys think?

-Don


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: 351M
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 14:54:08 -0700

Find a 400 crank & pistons. It's the best thing you can do for power. Also
don't get too hung up on .030...tell the machinist to measure it carefully
and bore it as little as possible. The flat top 400 pistons from Ohio Piston
& Pin (P/N 1282P) are available in .010, .020, .030, .040 and .060 so try
for as little overbore as possible. I got a Crower cam with pretty
substantial lift especially on the exhaust side.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 1:00 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 351M


> Well i just dug out a 351M out of a junk yard for $10 bucks (gotta love
> knowing the owners).
> Anyways.  I'm gonna rebuild it and throw it in my truck (currently has a
> 351M in it).  I looked for a 460 but no luck :-(
>
> I'm just looking for any recomendations for how about going on to rebuild
> it? Like what should i all have done to it?
>
> My plans so far. (after tearing it apart. heh duh)
>
> I'm gonna have the block bored .030 over.
> I"m gonna get a weiland intake # 8010.
> A holley 700 CFM # 0-4778S
> I don't know what kinda cam i want though yet... grrr i really don't know
> what to chose either.
>
> So what you guys think?




------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: 351M
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 16:57:20 -0500

Bill.
so i should probably go for like .010 over?
and why do you recommend a lot of lift on the exhaust side?

-Don Thurlow


> Find a 400 crank & pistons. It's the best thing you can do for power. Also
> don't get too hung up on .030...tell the machinist to measure it carefully
> and bore it as little as possible. The flat top 400 pistons from Ohio
Piston
> & Pin (P/N 1282P) are available in .010, .020, .030, .040 and .060 so try
> for as little overbore as possible. I got a Crower cam with pretty
> substantial lift especially on the exhaust side.
>
> "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
> To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 1:00 PM
> Subject: [61-79-list] 351M
>
>
> > Well i just dug out a 351M out of a junk yard for $10 bucks (gotta love
> > knowing the owners).
> > Anyways.  I'm gonna rebuild it and throw it in my truck (currently has a
> > 351M in it).  I looked for a 460 but no luck :-(
> >
> > I'm just looking for any recomendations for how about going on to
rebuild
> > it? Like what should i all have done to it?
> >
> > My plans so far. (after tearing it apart. heh duh)
> >
> > I'm gonna have the block bored .030 over.
> > I"m gonna get a weiland intake # 8010.
> > A holley 700 CFM # 0-4778S
> > I don't know what kinda cam i want though yet... grrr i really don't
know
> > what to chose either.
> >
> > So what you guys think?
>
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: 351M
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 15:08:35 -0700

I was able to get a .020 overbore on my 351M so the cylinder walls are a
little thicker and there may even be another rebuild in it. As far as the
cam selection, I relied on a lot of advice from Chris Samuel, another list
member, based on a list of the cams that I had narrowed down. You can see
the list I put together at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.pacifier.com/~bbeyer/Cam_Comp.htm

The extra lift will give the exhaust valves more time to evacuate the
exhaust without increasing the overlap (the time that the exhaust and intake
valves are open simultaneously) which can affect emissions.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 2:57 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 351M


> Bill.
> so i should probably go for like .010 over?
> and why do you recommend a lot of lift on the exhaust side?
>
> -Don Thurlow
>
>
> > Find a 400 crank & pistons. It's the best thing you can do for power.
Also
> > don't get too hung up on .030...tell the machinist to measure it
carefully
> > and bore it as little as possible. The flat top 400 pistons from Ohio
> Piston
> > & Pin (P/N 1282P) are available in .010, .020, .030, .040 and .060 so
try
> > for as little overbore as possible. I got a Crower cam with pretty
> > substantial lift especially on the exhaust side.
> >
> > "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
> > To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 1:00 PM
> > Subject: [61-79-list] 351M
> >
> >
> > > Well i just dug out a 351M out of a junk yard for $10 bucks (gotta
love
> > > knowing the owners).
> > > Anyways.  I'm gonna rebuild it and throw it in my truck (currently has
a
> > > 351M in it).  I looked for a 460 but no luck :-(
> > >
> > > I'm just looking for any recomendations for how about going on to
> rebuild
> > > it? Like what should i all have done to it?
> > >
> > > My plans so far. (after tearing it apart. heh duh)
> > >
> > > I'm gonna have the block bored .030 over.
> > > I"m gonna get a weiland intake # 8010.
> > > A holley 700 CFM # 0-4778S
> > > I don't know what kinda cam i want though yet... grrr i really don't
> know
> > > what to chose either.
> > >
> > > So what you guys think?
> >
> >
> >
> > =============================================================
> > To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> > Please remove this footer when replying.
> >
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 16:08:54 -0700
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Pitman Arm

>wouldn't the jcwhitney pitarm work then? because it's ment for lift
>applications.
>here's the link again....
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=59996
>
>hope it works this time?
>it's meant for 4in or 6in suspension lifts...
>
>-Don

The F-250 and F-150 use different steering setups.  The F-150 uses a
cross over steering setup with the box on the outside of the frame.
the pitman arm on the F-250 passes between the frame and the springs.
The problem with using the drop down arm is that at full compression
you run the chance of the springs hitting the pitman arm.  the 4-6
inches of lift stated is for the F-150.  If you need to compensate
for lift you should try the drop draglink first.  If you still need
the drop pitman arm I can check the taper on the ball joint end
because I have both here.
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Daily Drivers
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 19:32:01 -0700

At least your disk brakes won't rust up that way :-)  It's amazing how
quickly they rust and begin to pit......Both of my trucks will be sitting
now most of the time so I will have to take them around the yard once a week
or so to clean off the brakes if nothing else :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> I disagree with your definition of a daily driver. I drive my truck 6 days
> out of seven in a typical week. I just don't drive it very far.


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Agreement......:-)
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 19:37:50 -0700

Actually..........had the flu this weekend but feeling better now :-)  I've
found that if you stick to the facts there are many who will agree with you
:-)  Opinions have no pla.......well, ok maybe not :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> >   They have specific areas of application where
> > they are superior to paper but daily driving is not one of them.
>
> Gary, are you feeling OK? It looks like we actually agree on something.
;-)



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleets
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 18:44:32 -0500



Is fleetside the same as styleside? Sorry... can't remember all these terms and keep them straight sometimes.

I have 275/60SR15's on 15x8 inch wheels in the back of my 66 F100 styleside. On the front I have 215/70SR15's on 15x7 inch wheels. I could go a little bigger in the back, and quite a bit bigger in the front still. My truck is 2 wheel drive and also has a stock suspension.

Hope that helps.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Dutch.
 To: 61-79 Ford Truck List
 Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 5:32 AM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Fw: Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleetside.

 Hello again  list,

 I intend replacing the stock rims and tyres on my 2WD '66 F100 longbed
 fleetside with custom wheels. What is the biggest rim width and tyre size
 both back and front that I can go with out fouling the wheelarches?
 I have stock suspension on my truck.
 Any advise would be appreciated.

 Thanks in advance,

 Dutch.........



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 16:46:12 -0700
From: Keith Srb <herbie ford-trucks.com>
Subject: 74 390 with a torn up push rod

Hi Gang,

I have a 74 F-250 with a 390 4V in it.  One day, going to work, I exited the freeway and came up to a stop light.  The engine was running on 7 cylinders.  After checking all of the little things first and having no luck, I took the valve covers off today.  Well I found the push rod for the intake on the number 2 cylinder wasn't any where near the rocker arm.  It was just kinda laying off to the side.  I pulled the push rod out and found the bottom end to be torn up and some metal missing.  Now I have some questions.

1.  What would cause a push rod to do this???

2.  I am assuming that it would be a good idea to take the intake off and see what is up with the lifter correct?

3.  What else should I look for while I am at it???????

Thanks!
Keith Srb


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Starting Electrics?
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 20:09:04 -0700

Well, all old fords work the same way so if you short the small terminal
closest to the battery cable to the battery cable and it does not try to
turn the starter and the solenoid clicks once to indicate the switch moved
inside then it could either be a bad connection to the starter at the
starter or solenoid (very common problem) or the starter may be bad or the
solenoid may be bad.

Now, if that didn't work, use jumper cables to connect the battery plus
terminal to the other side of the starter solenoid with quick, firm
pressure.  If the starter doesn't try to turn then the starter is bad or the
connections may be bad.

If you get a response with one of these methods then you have a problem
between the ignition switch and start relay (solenoid).  One possibility
which comes to mind is a shorted start voltage wire between the start relay
and ignition module if you have dura spark which might reduce the current in
the relay so it can't make the connection.

When trouble  shooting, start as close to the device which won't cooperate
and work your way back.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
To: FTE <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 11:17 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Starting Electrics?


> Hi all,
>
> I'm hoping someone can help me with my starting electrics problems.  I've
> got a '78 Bronco that I'm rebuilding from two separate broncos.  I've got
> most of it back together but I'm having some electric related problems on
> it.  (Surprise, surprise...)
>
> Here is the situation.  I turn the key and nothing happens.  I've traced
> the wires to the solenoid and both of them are in-fact in tact.  (The ones
> that connect to the 'S' and 'I' on the solenoid.)  At least they are now
> that I bypassed the neutral safety switch since I put a manual tranny in a
> body that previously had an automatic.  That took me 30 minutes to figure
> out.  Dohhh!  It seems that the rest of the ignition wiring is in ok
> working order as well.  (It used to start when I turned the key to run and
> I'm still not sure which wire goes to which terminal on the solenoid.)
>
> In any case I tried disconnecting the main power lead to the starter that
> connects to the opposite side of the solenoid and connecting it directly
> to the +ve terminal on the battery.  It did nothing.  Shouldn't the
> starter engage when I do this since there is no other wiring going to the
> starter?  We do have a good ground strap from the engine to the body so I
> don't think that's the issue.
>
> Unfortunately my knowledge of electricity is exceeded by my knowledge of
> just about everything else about cars (which ain't sayin much.)  :-)
>
> Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.  BTW my haynes
> wiring diagram isn't really good enough to help with this problem.  Does
> anyone have the original Ford wiring diagrams they'd be willing to
> share/scan?  I didn't buy them when I bought my '78 Shop Manuals and I'm
> now regretting it.
>
> Later,
>
> Eric Finn
> '78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project still in progress)
> '95 Mustang GT "Beauty" (Daily driver until winter hits)
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 20:13:41 -0700

I remember those filters leaving the carb squeaky clean, like new.  If you
look at the applications they were used on though you may see that they were
mostly on 2v, low volume applications (trucks).  I suppose a large enough
one might work on a high performance application as well but I don't recall
ever seeing one in that application.....

While I've never seen data on  this, I suspect these oil bath filters were
very efficient air cleaners.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> >Isnt that basically what happened toteh old oil bath cleaners of
yesteryear?
>
> >Restrictive yes, but the air dont get any cleaner.



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Gas burps from rear tank
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 20:17:38 -0700

Gas held in large, in  ground tanks is very cold and compacted due to temp
but when pumped out into the tank and the tank sits in the sun light it
warms up considerably which is why newer tanks have large air spaces in the
top which you cannot defeat by any reasonable means to allow for this
expansion.

If your tank has been repositioned from stock the air space may be
compromised but I wouldn't expect a couple of gallons to come out even in
the Sahara??

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> I have a '78 F250 with dual factory tanks.  If I fill both tanks full, the
> rear will burp several gallons out during the night.  Any ideas why?



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 20:25:34 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: Y Block Question

Anybody out here on the list know the Y Block motors?????
Joe



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Y Block Question
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 21:21:02 -0400

JOE
here is a link to the Y BLOCK list this letter of yours has also been sent
to them
there is some very good fellas on that list and a few vendors also who can
help you with anything you want to do to a Y Block
gordon


----- Original Message -----
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
To: ford trucklist61-79 <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 8:25 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Y Block Question


> Anybody out here on the list know the Y Block motors?????
> Joe
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>



------------------------------

From: Rizard209 aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 21:19:46 EDT
Subject: novice's question on power

hello all....here's a question 4 u........ i have a 1970 f100 with a 300 ci
(4.9) engine........ and without droppin a bigger engine, what else could u
add 2 get more hp at a cost effective price.... ..

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: novice's question on power
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 20:32:04 -0500


A K&N air filter!!!

(just kidding guys please don't kill me!)

A new intake with a 4 barrel carb, as well as a header would probably be my first modifications.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Rizard209 aol.com
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 8:19 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] novice's question on power


 hello all....here's a question 4 u........ i have a 1970 f100 with a 300 ci
 (4.9) engine........ and without droppin a bigger engine, what else could u
 add 2 get more hp at a cost effective price.... ..



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: novice's question on power
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 21:43:15 -0400

hello all....here's a question 4 u........ i have a 1970 f100 with a 300 ci
>   (4.9) engine........ and without droppin a bigger engine, what else
could u
>   add 2 get more hp at a cost effective price.... ..
=======================================================
check the valve adjustments they are real criticle with the inline 6 and if
not correct can really make them a dog and hog the gas
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: emissions control
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 19:10:30 -0700

And where is that located? ;0).  Ok, so to do it right you would probably
have to buy a parts truck equipped as you want it with a title and then
re-register your truck with the new vin # and pay any sales/transfer taxes.
Again, didn't say it was an easy or a good idea but....


> Won't work.  They can check through the Vin #...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hogan, Tom [mailto:Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com]

>
> > My '79 f250 has catalytic converters, in addition to the missing air
> > injection system with which it was originally equipped, being a CA
> > model.  It's a shame to have to put this stuff back on.  BTW,
> > I'm in UT.
> > -Randy
> >
> >
>
> It's times like this that it becomes tempting to find a
> non-CA truck and
> swap out the driver's side door.  Not to suggest anything
> extra-legal or
> anything. ;0)
>
> Tom H.


------------------------------

From: "Phillips" <hosses kootenaycable.com>
Subject: Re: Hard to restart when hot...
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 21:36:15 -0600


> I checked the timing and it shows 3 degrees BTDC. The tune up specs call
for
> 4 but it will start to ping if I get past that at all so I stay at
> 3....Would 1 degree make this happen?  I have had lots of great input on
> this so far and I think I am having a heat soak problem from what I can
> determine..... Thanks everybody!


I just went through a similar problem on my '91. If I shut it off after running for half an hour or so it would barely turn over. It would start great cold but not warm. Had just replaced the starter and solenoid so I looked elsewhere. I changed cables etc and started worrying about more serious things. I swapped the battery from my '79 in and problem solved. It seems like the heat was causing my battery to do something and even though it would still show about 13.5+ volts it wouldn't start the truck. Hope this helps...

Tom on the border


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 22:16:10 -0700
From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: F-250 parts

>>Hey all!!  I just picked up a 1979 F-250 Ranger XLT 4x4.  I will part it >>out this weekend, so if anybody needs parts.....let me know.

I may be interested in the steering box.Where are you located?

------------------------------

From: WhtsUpDoc2 aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 01:50:09 EDT
Subject: Goofy Gas Gauge

> The gauge on my single-tank f-150 is that way.  Reads around 3/4 when full
> and goes a proportionate amount below Empty on the other end.  No idea
> why, just thought I'd let you know your truck ain't the only one that
> does it.

My '78 F-250 does the same thing.  I have a 19 or 21 gallon (not sure : ))
saddle-tank.  It doesn't read over 3/4 even when plum-full.  I have a good 5
gallons left when I'm past "E."

Jason Warner
78 F-250 Custom- 460, C-6 Auto
Yukon, OK

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 23:51:22 -0700
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Monroe

Steve:

I can't make Monroe, but tomorrow I'm going to look at a '56 F100 with a
351C and Marmon-Harrington 4WD.

Today was spent recuperating from the thrilling Friday Mariner's
baseball game and hauling scrap to the recycler in the trusty '71 F100.
I'm also stripping down a  Mustang II front clip in anticipation of a
future project with an F100.

--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net
Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
  (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)



------------------------------

From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 01:25:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Y Block Question

At 08:25 PM 07:10:2000 -0400, Joe wrote:
>Anybody out here on the list know the Y Block motors?????
>Joe


Ask a question, someone is bound to answer...

Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, terminal cancer...
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....


------------------------------

From: "Jeffery Hansen" <billybobjoehansen hotmail.com>
Subject: HARD TO START
Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 13:27:02 GMT

Sorry, but I haven't seen in your post just what you mean by "Hard to
Start".  Slow turning over, turning over fine but not firing, etc.  I'll be
honest here, I don't read each and every one where there is a plethera of
discussion, i.e. Duralube-vs-STP-vs-Slick 50, -vs- saving your money,
K&N-vs-paper, etc., etc.  When I first rebuilt the Muny Pit I was having a
heck of a time with it too.  It didn't want to fire back up when shut down
in the summer heat.  The fuel line on the truck came up the frame rail, past
the headers, up the front of the block, across the top of the engine into to
carb.  Because it has an electric fuel pump mounted at the tank - I replaced
and rerouted the fuel line to come up the back between the transmission and
firewall, put it inside 4 foot of 3/4 heater hose about 3 inches from the
carb on down and (sshhhh here everybody) haven't had a lick of trouble since
- well - lick of trouble in not wanting to start when at temp.
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------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: 74 390 with a torn up push rod
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 09:38:24 -0500

Keith Srb wrote;


I found the push rod for the intake on the number 2 cylinder wasn't any
where near the rocker arm.  It was just kinda laying off to the side.  I
pulled the push rod out and found the bottom end to be torn up and some
metal missing.  Now I have some questions.
>
> 1.  What would cause a push rod to do this???

Lifter malfunction, too many rpm's, guide failure, pushrod fatigue, or mabye
something in the chamber.
>
> 2.  I am assuming that it would be a good idea to take the intake off and
see what is up with the lifter correct?

Yes
>
> 3.  What else should I look for while I am at it???????

I would pull the lifter apart and check for any damage, internal and
external. While the lifter was out of the block, I'd also look at the
camshaft lobe for any visible damage. It might not be a bad idea to pull the
head and check out the valve and guide. I would really look at the rocker
arm and shaft. Slide the rocker arm out of it's regular position so you can
see the area where it normally runs-check the shaft for damage. If you don't
find anything wrong, I'd put it back together and run it.
Jason Kendrick



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 08:32:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (was emissions control) Now VIN's

Actually Tom, the VIN is also stamped on the frame so you could have a
situation where the frame VIN and door VIN don't match if you just swapped
the drivers door...

Later,

Eric Finn (currently wrestling with VIN's)
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project still in progress)

--- "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com> wrote:
> And where is that located? ;0).  Ok, so to do it right you would
> probably
> have to buy a parts truck equipped as you want it with a title and then
> re-register your truck with the new vin # and pay any sales/transfer
> taxes.
> Again, didn't say it was an easy or a good idea but....
>
>
> > Won't work.  They can check through the Vin #...


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------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Fw: Y Block Question
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 13:12:57 -0400


heres the link and answer to your question about Y Blocks
you can join this Y Block list also if you want to learn more theres a few
fellas on there that are getting 500 + horses from them and are turning low
12s in the quarter mile as well and some vendors that sell Y Block parts for
all applications
good luck
gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bodymand aol.com>
To: <yblock listbot.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [61-79-list] Y Block Question


> YBlock Mail - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://yblock.web-page.net
>
> get the book ford y block it tell you a lot and it helpfull
>
> dave
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________ ....


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