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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Sat, 07 Oct 2000 14:40:09 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 14:40:09 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #281 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Fri, 06 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 281 In This Issue: Re: hot starter problems Hard to restart when hot??? Re: hot starter problems hot starter problems L and L web site Re: Gas in Oil Re: 460 Headers Hard to restart when hot??? Re: website for 460 engine mounts Re: Gas in Oil Re: Gas in Oil Re: emissions control Re: emissions control Re: hot starter problems Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ Re: Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ Swap Meet 427 SOHC Re: Gas in Oil Re: 427 SOHC Re: 427 SOHC Re: 427 SOHC Re: 427 SOHC Re: brake hoses Re: brake hoses Re: 427 SOHC Gas burps from rear tank Fw: Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleetside. Re: Gas burps from rear tank Re: emissions control Now cost of smog pump Re: Any other 61-66 F-250 4x4 owners out there RE; Hard to restart when hot...... Re: Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ Re: Anodizing remover Re: While we're talking about fuel tanks... Re: Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ Re: RE; Hard to restart when hot...... Re: paper air filters (re-use?) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: hot starter problems Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 13:45:27 -0700 If you replace the battery cables, get the larger gauge cables. You can replace all three cables (neg, pos batt to solenoid, pos solenoid to starter) for about $30 (2 gauge) versus $15 for the stock 4 or 6 gauge. This would help your problem as well... -----Original Message----- From: wish [mailto:wish ford-trucks.net]
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 12:36 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: hot starter problems >how about this related problem- my starter has trouble when the engine is hot >and i have to idle for a while. i.e. if im sitting in a long line of traffic >(over 1/2 an hour) the truck will want to stall. when it does, the starter >BARELY wants to kick it over. If it starts warm okay normally, but when you're sitting still it causes problems, then it does indeed sound like a heat soaked starter. Also be sure and check all the cables too, it could be that they're just getting that much warmer and the whole thing is causing problems ... I have to wonder why its dying on you anyway ... sounds like 2 problems ... > by the >way, i have headers. is this normal behavior for a starter? Unfortunately the headers are probably not helping the situation ... its not normal, but its not uncommon ... its not supposed to do that either. > should i replace >it? Probably, if its getting bad about doing this. > do those starter heat shields really work? Wouldn't be a bad idea, I've never used one, but never had this problem either. When the truck gets ready to stall, is it overheating, or vapor locking on you ? just curious if its a sudden stall or what ... sometimes you sit idling for a while then step on the gas and poof its vapor locked, it can keep enough cool fuel comin through at idle, but more than that or an accelerator squirt and its done for ... one old truck for the stangs was a couple of clothespins on the fuel line to help dissipate the heat... Carrie says she did this on her Camaro too and it worked, but probably should fix the problem rather than just patch it if you know what's causing it... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ From: "JX Schulz" <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
Subject: Hard to restart when hot??? Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 14:55:21 -0600 I gotta jump in here.....try an electric fuel pump, it made ALL of my hot engine problems disappear (FE).....Its just so much better to push the fuel rather than pull it.... CJ ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: hot starter problems Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 17:04:43 -0400 If you replace the battery cables, get the larger gauge cables. You can > replace all three cables (neg, pos batt to solenoid, pos solenoid to > starter) for about $30 (2 gauge) versus $15 for the stock 4 or 6 gauge. > This would help your problem as well... ======================================================= if your going to replace the starter cables make your own up with i think its 00 or 000 welding cable with lugs crimped on them they will work much better than any OEMs you can buy and will take all the heat and current you can put thru them i did this once to a C---Y that was having hot start troubles and it put an end to all of them gordon ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 16:07:22 -0500 Subject: Re: emissions control Now cost of smog pump From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> Disclaimer: I do not promote or endorse the removal, modification, or > tampering of mandated emission control components. (whew!) :) Now that you mention it, neither do I. I was only relating an anecdotal experience. Have a great weekend!! -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "JX Schulz" <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
Subject: hot starter problems Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 15:25:29 -0600 Clare, I had the same exact thing happen, and I have headers as well, shorties, that are close to the starter. I discovered that rebuilt starters are basically junk and are really susceptible to heat problems....Two things I did were find a NEW high quality starter (I wish I could remember the name for you, but it eludes me at the minute....but I heard Bosch makes good new ones) and then wrapped it with the starter heat protector stuff. To do this, I used both hose clamps and some of that aluminum tape on the end...The whole deal is a hassle, especially if you have to pull the headers to get the starter out (which you need to, by the way, with Sandersons). But, I don't think it's as much as a hassle as being stuck in Mexico..... Hope this helps!!!! CJ ------------------------------ From: "Rob Hutson" <tx4wheeler cs.com>
Subject: L and L web site Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 16:14:19 -0500 Here is the address for L and L www.landlproducts.com Robert Hutson (TX4Wheeler) 1978 Ford Bronco 2BigBroncos South Chapter http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/hutsonr ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 18:40:03 -0400 From: "JB MCIWorld" <jeffrey.bennett mciworld.com>
Subject: Re: Gas in Oil John, That's it, I just had a fuel pump go out which I replaced. Never thought of that, thanks jeff > -----Original Message----- > From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of John LaGrone
> Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 11:03 AM > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Gas in Oil > > > CARGO MATS FOR PICKUPS & SUVS - Keep your stuff > from sliding around! Click below for more info! > <a href="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.workingmat.com">www.workingmat.com</a> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< > > >> Help, > >> I just rebuilt the 302 in my 72 f100, and changed the break in oil > >> last night. I noticed it seemed thin and had a gas smell to it. Any > >> ideas? Could it be in the intake or gas blowing by the rings before > >> they seated? The engine has been running great since the rebuild, no > >> smoking or noticeable oil consumption. > > Jeff, did you have too much oil when you drained it? Another > possibility is > a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm letting gasoline into the crank case. BTDT. > > -- John > jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
> 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) > http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm > Dearborn iron rules!!!! > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > > ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:32:07 EDT Subject: Re: 460 Headers In a message dated 10/5/00 6:22:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time, nukegm ford-trucks.com writes:
<< Anyone have the URL or telephone number for L and L?? I have a buddy in Bethel Springs TN who is looking to drop a 460 in his 79 4x4 - he needs some motor mounts. >> This may have already been answered. Phone # 972-475-5202 I do not believe they have a URL, if they do I too would like to know it. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 19:42:34 -0400 From: "O'Connor" <theoconnors mindspring.com>
Subject: Hard to restart when hot??? Awhile back, I polled the list and compiled a trouble shooting chart for hard starting when hot. Since then, it got cut accidentally from my hard drive. Would it be in the archives or did someone save the chart? If anyone finds it, please forward it to the list so I can redo it on my computer. In the mean time, the discription from PJ is a good place to start: "If it cranks over slowly, it has small amounts of antifreeze being pulled in through the head gasket. This will gum up the cylinders until the oil/fuel mixture washes it off. If it cranks fast then hold the throtle to the mat while cranking. If it starts immediately, then the carb is too rich at the mid and low speed circuits. Also if it cranks fast and starts slowly then the static timing could also be set to retarded." Tim ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:45:50 EDT Subject: Re: website for 460 engine mounts In a message dated 10/5/00 6:56:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time, xavetarx home.com writes:
<< if you want to check out the site to see the engine mounts, here it is: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://performanceunlimited.com/customproducts/enginemount.html >> I just checked this site out and in my opinion this looks like a very good deal. I have spent a lot of money at L&L this looks like a competitor. The destroyed mount this page shows looks just like my L&L mount. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:59:42 EDT Subject: Re: Gas in Oil Sounds like it is flooding itself out. Maybe the float in the carb. is to high allowing excess gas to get into the cylinders which will wash past the rings taking along with it any oil that's on the walls. Just a thought but worth checking out. ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 20:08:39 EDT Subject: Re: Gas in Oil In a message dated 10/6/00 5:56:37 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jeffrey.bennett mciworld.com writes:
<< > Help, > I just rebuilt the 302 in my 72 f100, and changed the break in oil > last night. I noticed it seemed thin and had a gas smell to it. Any > ideas? Could it be in the intake or gas blowing by the rings before > they seated? The engine has been running great since the rebuild, no > smoking or noticeable oil consumption. > > thanks > jeff >> It is very doubtful the fuel is coming through the rings unless you black smoke coming from the tail pipe continuously. Usually, the temperature of the oil keeps most of the fuel evaporated. So what I am saying is that it sounds like it is going in faster that it is going out. The fuel pump may have a leaking diaphragm which can result in fuel being pumped into the engine. Generally there is a vent hole on the top of the pump to prevent this, but it can get plugged. Other things that could deliver a lot of fuel is the boiling of the fuel in the carb after shut down, or leaky needle valve bleeding down the fuel pressure with a intake valve or two open, it is a down hill run to the cylinders from the carb. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 20:19:36 EDT Subject: Re: emissions control Thanks for the info. Wasn't sure of the specifics. ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 20:27:53 EDT Subject: Re: emissions control Definitely a good thought, and less expensive. ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 20:36:26 EDT Subject: Re: hot starter problems I second that thought I got 00 cable on my 351W and I don't no more problems. ------------------------------ From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 20:44:32 EDT Subject: Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ Hey all!! I just picked up a 1979 F-250 Ranger XLT 4x4. I will part it out this weekend, so if anybody needs parts.....let me know. It has the following: 4.10 gears in a Dana 44 Front, 4.10 gear in a Dana 60 (Don't know if its a Trac-Loc...Yet), 300 Straight 6 Cylinder, Factory Air Conditioning (Will put on EBAY complete with part of the firewall for a template to convert a 1973-1979 F-series to A/C.....ALL PARTS down to the screws, 4 speed stick trans (NP435 or T18...not sure yet), NP205 Transfer Case, Front & Rear Driveshafts, Power Steering Box, Myers Plow (Sorry its Sold) ETC. The body is trashed....it looks like it was sitting for years under a tree. There's even a small tree growing in the bed!! I don't have any fixed prices YET...but give me a shot!!! Thanks Again!! ------------------------------ From: "Radoje Spasojevic" <rspasoje mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 18:16:39 -0700 I'd be interested in the e-brake bracket (darn pot metal... ) if you want to part with it. Radoje Spasojevic "Nerves of Steel, Brains of Chipmunk" '90XLT-351W-AOD-BW1356-Dana44-Ford8.8(Lockright)-3.55 '83Custom-300-Clark4spd-NP208-Dana44-Ford8.8"-3.08 '76F-250 Crew Cab-390FE-NP435-NP205-Dana 60-Dana 60-4.10 '87Eddie Bauer-No engine-No tranny-No t-case-No axles-No front clip http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org --Rubicon tested-- ********************************** -----Original Message----- From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com <FORDTRKNUT aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, October 06, 2000 5:42 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ >CARGO MATS FOR PICKUPS & SUVS - Keep your stuff >from sliding around! Click below for more info! ><a href="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.workingmat.com">www.workingmat.com</a> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< > >Hey all!! I just picked up a 1979 F-250 Ranger XLT 4x4. I will part it out >this weekend, so if anybody needs parts.....let me know. It has the >following: 4.10 gears in a Dana 44 Front, 4.10 gear in a Dana 60 (Don't >know if its a Trac-Loc...Yet), 300 Straight 6 Cylinder, Factory Air >Conditioning (Will put on EBAY complete with part of the firewall for a >template to convert a 1973-1979 F-series to A/C.....ALL PARTS down to the >screws, 4 speed stick trans (NP435 or T18...not sure yet), NP205 Transfer >Case, Front & Rear Driveshafts, Power Steering Box, Myers Plow (Sorry its >Sold) ETC. The body is trashed....it looks like it was sitting for years >under a tree. There's even a small tree growing in the bed!! I don't have >any fixed prices YET...but give me a shot!!! Thanks Again!! >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 18:45:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Swap Meet Anyone in the NW going to the Monroe, Washington swap meet this weekend?? Steve & the Rockette 68 F100, 390cid, FMX 63 F100, 292cid, 3speed 72 Capri 2000, hers 73 Capri 2600, terminal cancer... 73 MGB GT, Our Toy 94 SHO, SWMBO's 98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine.... ------------------------------ From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 22:28:17 EDT Subject: 427 SOHC http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=454059484&r= 0&t=0 I'm thinking about bidding; Anybody know how well this would fit in a 67? If my bid is successful, should I install a K&N or paper element filter (Sorry, I couldn't resist!)? Go Yankees! Thom 1967 F-Series Registry http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee ------------------------------ From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: Gas in Oil Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 22:49:39 -0400 > Help, > I just rebuilt the 302 in my 72 f100, and changed the break in oil > last night. I noticed it seemed thin and had a gas smell to it. Any > ideas? Could it be in the intake or gas blowing by the rings before > they seated? The engine has been running great since the rebuild, no > smoking or noticeable oil consumption. Bad fuel pump ... If the diaphragm of the fuel pump ruptures, it will let gas into the oil. It may rupture only enough to flood your oil pan with gas, too, and still pump enough fuel to the carb to keep it running without a noticeable problem. ------------------------------ From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: 427 SOHC Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 21:54:47 -0500 I drooled all over my monitor, hehe. -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of TBeeee aol.com
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 9:28 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] 427 SOHC CARGO MATS FOR PICKUPS & SUVS - Keep your stuff from sliding around! Click below for more info! <a href="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.workingmat.com">www.workingmat.com</a> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=454059484& r= 0&t=0 I'm thinking about bidding; Anybody know how well this would fit in a 67? If my bid is successful, should I install a K&N or paper element filter (Sorry, I couldn't resist!)? Go Yankees! Thom 1967 F-Series Registry http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 427 SOHC Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 23:23:44 -0400 I'm thinking about bidding; Anybody know how well this would fit in a 67? > Thom ============================================================= it will fit perfectly lets hope you can handle it tho they can put out 600 h.p. if built right gordon ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 20:46:55 -0700 From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: 427 SOHC > >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=454059484&r= > >0&t=0 > >I'm thinking about bidding; Anybody know how well this would fit in a 67? If >my bid is successful, should I install a K&N or paper element filter (Sorry, >I couldn't resist!)? >Go Yankees! > >Thom Bidding is up to $11,000 and climbing. Go for it DUDE! ;) -- Don Grossman duckdon mac.com
------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 427 SOHC Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 00:06:44 -0400 i just looked at the 427 you are speaking of this is only the 2nd one i have seen YET they were outlawed before they could ever compete in daytona even and at 600h.p. they were still under rated they are actually a hemi engine gordon ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 00:01:25 EDT Subject: Re: brake hoses ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 00:10:52 EDT Subject: Re: brake hoses I want to thank those that offered ideas for the front brake hoses on a 72 F-250 4x4. As it turns out I have not been fully successful yet. But I did check out several suggestions, PageBrake.com was very friendly and helpful but could not come up with my particular hoses. The Raybestos part # almost got it, they are 5 inches too short. So I am moving the point where the hoses connect to the brake lines out 5 inches and getting longer steel lines. For what ever reason Ford must have made the set up that I have for only a short period of time. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 21:16:44 -0700 From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: 427 SOHC This guy has a bunch of other cool stuff also. A 427 dual/quad lowriser with carbs and air cleaner for $550. He really like his toys! -- Don Grossman duckdon mac.com
------------------------------ From: "Steve and Fran" <smithsf offspringnet.net>
Subject: Gas burps from rear tank Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 22:49:30 -0600 I have a '78 F250 with dual factory tanks. If I fill both tanks full, the rear will burp several gallons out during the night. Any ideas why? Steve Smith ------------------------------ From: "Dutch." <dutchman esatclear.ie>
Subject: Fw: Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleetside. Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 11:32:35 +0100 Hello again list, I intend replacing the stock rims and tyres on my 2WD '66 F100 longbed fleetside with custom wheels. What is the biggest rim width and tyre size both back and front that I can go with out fouling the wheelarches? I have stock suspension on my truck. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Dutch......... ------------------------------ From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Gas burps from rear tank Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 04:47:06 -0700 Both of my 69 F250's had the same problem with all 4 fuel tanks. I removed all the fuel fill tubes and welded a restrictor plate inside each tube. This modification shuts the gas pump off about 2 gallons sooner than a stock fill tube. Michael 69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS 69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > I have a '78 F250 with dual factory tanks. If I fill both tanks full, the > rear will burp several gallons out during the night. Any ideas why? > > Steve Smith ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: emissions control Now cost of smog pump Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 08:31:07 -0400 Disclaimer: I do not promote or endorse the removal, modification, or > > tampering of mandated emission control components. (whew!) :) ================================================= I DO a good pre emission system working right will put out Less pollution than this new junk does by the way have any of you thought of this OZONE layer garbage they are trying to shove down our throats well electric motors put out Ozone with as many of them as there is i cant see where this shortage should be gordon ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Any other 61-66 F-250 4x4 owners out there Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 08:33:09 -0400 > > Well with my new 61 f-250 4x4 flareside , i was wondering if there are > any other > people on the list with these years especiall the earlier years > 61-64.... > Joe ============================================================= just saw a fella on the Y Block list saying he had one of these trucks and was asking questions about it gordon ------------------------------ From: "paul williams" <williams22470 hotmail.com>
Subject: RE; Hard to restart when hot...... Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 06:40:42 PDT From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>Subject: Re: Hard to restart when
hot??? Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 21:13:19 -0700 Sounds like retarded timing.BTDT Michael I checked the timing and it shows 3 degrees BTDC. The tune up specs call for 4 but it will start to ping if I get past that at all so I stay at 3....Would 1 degree make this happen? I have had lots of great input on this so far and I think I am having a heat soak problem from what I can determine..... Thanks everybody! _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 09:53:03 EDT Subject: Re: Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ In a message dated 10/06/00 8:46:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, FORDTRKNUT aol.com writes:
<< Sold) ETC. The body is trashed....it looks like it was sitting for years under a tree. There's even a small tree growing in the bed!! I don't have any fixed prices YET...but give me a shot!!! Thanks Again >> How much for the Tree in Bed option. Cant cay I've ever seen one of those models before ;-) George M in Fl. ------------------------------ From: oldfords63 juno.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 09:41:59 -0500 Subject: Re: Anodizing remover That's what's nice about using a product designed for anodizing removal. Although still toxic and dangerous to inhale or get on your skin, if you follow directions and use it properly it won't harm the base metal and will remove the anodized surface coating in a few minutes. Then you can rinse it well, re polish it and either put it back on the truck, or clear it and then remount it. I've used it for years with no ill effects. I WOULD however use it outdoors if at all possible. Later, Phil (64 F-100 63 Galaxie) ========================================================================= == > The factory aluminum trim has a clear anodization to protect it. But after many years, the > > pieces develop what some have described as a "milky" haze. >Stripping the anodization is tricky because if the solvent sits on too long, it can > damage the metal. I have used EZ-Off HD oven cleaner. This stuff is more > toxic than it's use would imply. It's powerful and really burns like h***, > so use gloves and goggles and work outdoors if possible. Just spraying the > can once allowed some mist to drift into my eyes. That's the last time I didn't > use goggles. Don > ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: While we're talking about fuel tanks... Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 09:52:44 -0500 How big are the fuel tanks on the 79 f-250's *single tank* because when i'm on Empty and i fill it up it only takes 11 gallons > > The gauge on my single-tank f-150 is that way. Reads around 3/4 when full > and goes a proportionate amount below Empty on the other end. No idea > why, just thought I'd let you know your truck ain't the only one that > does it. > > --sean > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: Parting Out 1979 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 in NJ Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 09:55:43 -0500 i'd be intrested in teh inline 6. with the tranny and transfer case.. well maybe just the engine > > Hey all!! I just picked up a 1979 F-250 Ranger XLT 4x4. I will part it out > this weekend, so if anybody needs parts.....let me know. It has the > following: 4.10 gears in a Dana 44 Front, 4.10 gear in a Dana 60 (Don't > know if its a Trac-Loc...Yet), 300 Straight 6 Cylinder, Factory Air > Conditioning (Will put on EBAY complete with part of the firewall for a > template to convert a 1973-1979 F-series to A/C.....ALL PARTS down to the > screws, 4 speed stick trans (NP435 or T18...not sure yet), NP205 Transfer > Case, Front & Rear Driveshafts, Power Steering Box, Myers Plow (Sorry its > Sold) ETC. The body is trashed....it looks like it was sitting for years > under a tree. There's even a small tree growing in the bed!! I don't have > any fixed prices YET...but give me a shot!!! Thanks Again!! > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: RE; Hard to restart when hot...... Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 11:21:01 -0700 I didn't read every post but didn't notice percolation mentioned as a possible cause. I think Wish hiit it on the head though, if it only happens when standing idle with engine idling then starter heat soak is probably right but if it happens after running normally, driving into a parking lot, running into the store for a few minutes and running back out to start it then percolation due to "Intake" heat soak may be the cause. This is very common on the 335 and 385 series of engines, expecially the 335 (351M/400). In this case the "Soak" period which affects starting is roughly 10 minutes and starts about 5 minutes after you shut it off. If it were the starter it would likely not start immediately either. Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > I checked the timing and it shows 3 degrees BTDC. The tune up specs call for > 4 but it will start to ping if I get past that at all so I stay at > 3....Would 1 degree make this happen? I have had lots of great input on > this so far and I think I am having a heat soak problem from what I can > determine..... Thanks everybody! ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: paper air filters (re-use?) Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 15:32:02 -0700 I've done this many times myself both with vehicles and mowers etc.. There's nothing wrong with getting a little more live out of them but beware that you shoul always blow them out from the inside or the reverse of the direction that the dirt got in there in the first place. You should not blow it inward since this will force the dirt deeper into the paper with much greater force than normal aspiration would. Another negative aspect of paper elements is that once they have been wet the fibers swell up more or less permanently. When they dry they shrink some but never back to the original condition so use care when washing the engine area and change them more often if you have the open element type (hot rod after market stuff) since these will most likely get more rain water on them in the course of normal street use. The stock type with enclosed element and snorkle inlet will probably last a lot longer in this respect. Once the moisture damage has been done the dirt is harder to get out as well so changing them is the only option in that case. As to what flows more air "There aint no free lunch".......either you have more protection or you have more air or......you can have both if the element has enough surface area to allow more air flow. Large diameter paper filters have convoluted elements which allow perhaps as much as 100 times more surface for air to flow through than foam types or less convoluted cotton types so to get the air flow the paper ones get you have to open up the pores, that is allow larger particles to get through.......it becomes a compromise for better performance. I'm not accusing any .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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