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Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 21:02:51 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Wed, 04 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 276

In This Issue:
Suspension?
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Starting Electrics?
Re: Starting Electrics?
Re: K & N vs the rest
Re: Starting Electrics?
Re: Starting Electrics?
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: Starting Electrics?
Anodizing remover, source
Re: FT's and FE's- lots of ????s
Re: Anodizing remover, source
K and N filters
Re: a cleaner a cleaner
The Muny Pit
Stiff steering update
Re: Starting Electrics?
Re: Stiff steering update
Re: Coil voltage
Coil voltage
Re: Suspension?
Re: K and N filters
Re: K & N vs the rest

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "JX Schulz" <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
Subject: Suspension?
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 10:41:19 -0600

Hey Don,

You can use blocks in the rear, these are easy to do. For the front, though,
you'll most likely need new springs. Everyone seems to discourage the use of
blocks, even short ones in the front.....

Changing the front springs will end up taking all day, especially if you're
not using air tools.....

Don't know if this helps or not....

CJ


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 11:42:29 -0500
Subject: Re: K & N vs the rest
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> I"ll agree with Rich here what's ITYS?

I'm being snotty. ITYS = I Told You So. The air filter article confirms my
contention that the K&N provides no significant benefit to the typical daily
driver.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 12:07:32 -0600
From: "Randy Cannon" <rcannon ussynthetic.com>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner

Ok- I am fairly new to the list, and am intrigued by the following statement:

> ...we do discourage private party oil changes. We
> discourage private party anything....

Who is "we"? (the list?).  Does this really mean I am being discouraged from
performing my own oil changes and maintenance?  Why?  Sorry if I have
misinterpreted the message here or taken it out of context- it wouldn't be the
first time.
-Randy


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 13:16:10 -0500
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Ok- I am fairly new to the list, and am intrigued by the following statement:
>
>> ...we do discourage private party oil changes. We
>> discourage private party anything....
>
> Who is "we"? (the list?).  Does this really mean I am being discouraged from
> performing my own oil changes and maintenance?  Why?  Sorry if I have
> misinterpreted the message here or taken it out of context- it wouldn't be the
> first time.
> -Randy

No problem, Randy. Welcome aboard. The "we" I was referring to is our
society. IMHO, too many things require licenses and permits by our
governmental bodies at all levels. Since the government is supposed to be
"of the people, by the people, for the people" (probably got those in the
wrong order), in theory the government is "we".

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 11:17:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Starting Electrics?

Hi all,

I'm hoping someone can help me with my starting electrics problems.  I've
got a '78 Bronco that I'm rebuilding from two separate broncos.  I've got
most of it back together but I'm having some electric related problems on
it.  (Surprise, surprise...)

Here is the situation.  I turn the key and nothing happens.  I've traced
the wires to the solenoid and both of them are in-fact in tact.  (The ones
that connect to the 'S' and 'I' on the solenoid.)  At least they are now
that I bypassed the neutral safety switch since I put a manual tranny in a
body that previously had an automatic.  That took me 30 minutes to figure
out.  Dohhh!  It seems that the rest of the ignition wiring is in ok
working order as well.  (It used to start when I turned the key to run and
I'm still not sure which wire goes to which terminal on the solenoid.)

In any case I tried disconnecting the main power lead to the starter that
connects to the opposite side of the solenoid and connecting it directly
to the +ve terminal on the battery.  It did nothing.  Shouldn't the
starter engage when I do this since there is no other wiring going to the
starter?  We do have a good ground strap from the engine to the body so I
don't think that's the issue.

Unfortunately my knowledge of electricity is exceeded by my knowledge of
just about everything else about cars (which ain't sayin much.)  :-)

Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.  BTW my haynes
wiring diagram isn't really good enough to help with this problem.  Does
anyone have the original Ford wiring diagrams they'd be willing to
share/scan?  I didn't buy them when I bought my '78 Shop Manuals and I'm
now regretting it.

Later,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project still in progress)
'95 Mustang GT "Beauty" (Daily driver until winter hits)


__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 14:25:33 -0400
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Starting Electrics?

Eric Finn wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>

> In any case I tried disconnecting the main power lead to the starter that
> connects to the opposite side of the solenoid and connecting it directly
> to the +ve terminal on the battery.  It did nothing.  Shouldn't the
> starter engage when I do this since there is no other wiring going to the
> starter?

Yes, starter should work. You either have bad connection to starter or
bad starter. I'd fix that first, anything else you do won't help.

                                     OX

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 17:38:54 GMT
Subject: Re: K & N vs the rest

>The air filter article confirms my
>contention that the K&N provides no significant benefit to the typical daily

>driver.
>

And John, that's why your truck and car are mostly stock, you want a typical
daily driver ... however in the case of my car, it spends almost every weekend
finding the adhesion limits of the tires ... the truck, well I could probably
get by with less, but then what fun would a power slide in 6" of snow be if
I couldn't get the power on ?
Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 13:37:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting Electrics?
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

>> In any case I tried disconnecting the main power lead to the starter that
>> connects to the opposite side of the solenoid and connecting it directly
>> to the +ve terminal on the battery.  It did nothing.  Shouldn't the
>> starter engage when I do this since there is no other wiring going to the
>> starter?
>
> Yes, starter should work. You either have bad connection to starter or
> bad starter. I'd fix that first, anything else you do won't help.

Eric, you said it worked before sort of. Are you sure you didn't damage the
battery cables? If they were marginal before the project and you have been
moving them around, one or both may be no good. Try jumper cables from the
battery to the starter. Be careful under there.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 13:38:16 -0500
Subject: Re: K & N vs the rest
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> And John, that's why your truck and car are mostly stock, you want a typical
> daily driver ... however in the case of my car, it spends almost every weekend
> finding the adhesion limits of the tires ... the truck, well I could probably
> get by with less, but then what fun would a power slide in 6" of snow be if
> I couldn't get the power on ?

None.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 12:03:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Starting Electrics?

--- John LaGrone <jlagrone ford-trucks.com> wrote:
> > Yes, starter should work. You either have bad connection to starter or
> > bad starter. I'd fix that first, anything else you do won't help.

Right but how did I get it to start a few weeks ago then?  I must be
missing something here.

>  Eric, you said it worked before sort of. Are you sure you didn't damage
> the
> battery cables? If they were marginal before the project and you have
> been
> moving them around, one or both may be no good. Try jumper cables from
> the
> battery to the starter. Be careful under there.

No I'm not sure I didn't damage anything at this point in time.  I know
that the cables look good to my eye but that doesn't mean much.  There are
no obvious tears or rips in the insulation and the ends don't appear to be
corroded.  Is there something else I should be looking for in the cables?


The "started sort of" part comes from the fact that I was able to start it
a few weeks ago but I had to pull off one of the wires from the solenoid
to stop the starter from engaging once it was running.  We did try a
jumper cable to the positive side of the battery but should the negative
side go somewhere as well?  Shouldn't the chassis ground from engine to
body take care of that end of the circuit.  In any case the jumper cable
also failed to engage the starter this weekend.  I think I'll see if I can
get a new starter from my mechanic since I only purchased the old one back
in the fall of last year.

Any other things to look for?

Thanks for the help so far.

Later,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco (Project 8 months and counting)

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 15:25:52 -0400
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Starting Electrics?


Eric Finn wrote:
>
> --- John LaGrone <jlagrone ford-trucks.com> wrote:
> > > Yes, starter should work. You either have bad connection to starter or
> > > bad starter. I'd fix that first, anything else you do won't help.
>
> Right but how did I get it to start a few weeks ago then?  I must be
> missing something here.
>

Starters/connections go bad all the time. Sometimes a borderline
connection will work the first time (then it's usually followed by some
sparks and sizzling :-) and then not after that. If you jump power
straight to starter and it does not kick, it's bad or you have a bad
ground.

                   OX


--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 14:23:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting Electrics?
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> No I'm not sure I didn't damage anything at this point in time.  I know
> that the cables look good to my eye but that doesn't mean much.  There are
> no obvious tears or rips in the insulation and the ends don't appear to be
> corroded.  Is there something else I should be looking for in the cables?

After time, battery cables will get green corrosion on the inside of the
insulation. They may look wonderful on the outside, but have enormous
resistance due to this corrosion. Only an ohm meter can tell.

I haven't worked on Ford starters enough to tell you how to hook up wires
and jumpers. BTW, you can check the starter on the bench with jumper cables,
it doesn't have to be on the truck. You might try pulling it off and see if
you can get something out of it unless you want a new starter any way. And I
have had new starters out of the box that didn't work, too.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 13:49:10 -0600
From: "Randy Cannon" <rcannon ussynthetic.com>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner


thanks for the clarification.
-Randy

John LaGrone wrote:

> No problem, Randy. Welcome aboard. The "we" I was referring to is our
> society. IMHO, too many things require licenses and permits by our
> governmental bodies at all levels. Since the government is supposed to be
> "of the people, by the people, for the people" (probably got those in the
> wrong order), in theory the government is "we".
>
> -- John
> jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
> 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
> Dearborn iron rules!!!!
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: Starting Electrics?
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 11:46:09 -0800

Concerning the starter, Most auto parts stores test them for free, also for
the cables you are probably better off replacing them and starting over.
They usually dont cost more then $18 at the most for an OEM one, also, I
dont know if your starter has a solonoid on it or on the fenderwall, but,
its a possiblity that your solonoid has gone out, but a standard Ford
Starter from Napa in Alaska costs about, $50 plus core, so I am not sure
what the price difference is to the lower 48 but it should be less,
depending on the warrenty that you want with it and what kind of starter it
is, like Rayloc vs Bosch vs Beck Arnley and so on.
Keith
71 F250 4wd (410 gears and 33's)
81 Ford Courier


>> No I'm not sure I didn't damage anything at this point in time.  I know
>> that the cables look good to my eye but that doesn't mean much.  There
are
>> no obvious tears or rips in the insulation and the ends don't appear to
be
>> corroded.  Is there something else I should be looking for in the cables?
>
>After time, battery cables will get green corrosion on the inside of the
>insulation. They may look wonderful on the outside, but have enormous
>resistance due to this corrosion. Only an ohm meter can tell.
>
>I haven't worked on Ford starters enough to tell you how to hook up wires
>and jumpers. BTW, you can check the starter on the bench with jumper
cables,
>it doesn't have to be on the truck. You might try pulling it off and see if
>you can get something out of it unless you want a new starter any way. And
I
>have had new starters out of the box that didn't work, too.



------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: Anodizing remover, source
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 15:48:31 -0400


All - This stuff works great. Just dip the part in the solution for about 15
to 20 minutes, rinse well with water and polish. You may want to clear coat
the part afterwards for protection,OR you can just keep it polished. Without
the anodizing it will get dull if left outside.  Phil  64 F-100



..........a readily available Anodizing remover. It's from a place called :
RGS Abrasives Inc.
1246 W. Webb
DeWitt, MI. 48820
517-669-8848  or    888-725-4538
E-mail <RGSBuff1 GTE.Net>

A jar about the size of a beer can is $10,
and that's enough to do a whole car if you don't spill or waste it.
(It takes just a small amount to make a gallon of solution, and you can use
it over and over ) They also sell a full line of other buffing supplies.
Happy polishing

======================================================

>>I have a 65 F100 with the aluminum side molding. I removed my molding and
used scotch brite to
remove any coatings or oxidation. I then used a buffing wheel with several
different grits of
polishing compound to achieve the desired results. It is some work and takes
a while but when you
get done the piece looks very good. A fine grit sandpaper can be used to
remove some flaws.

Paul Rozell


------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: FT's and FE's- lots of ????s
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 15:33:03 -0500

Since nobody else has asaid anything about this, I'll jump in.

1) Is it possible to make a 361 a 391?  I understand that a 360 and 390
> differ only in the length of stroke and that a 390 crank in a 360 block
makes
> a 390 , with piston and rod swaps of course(correct?).  Does the same
apply
> to the FT's?  IOW, do 391 guts make a 361 a 391?

Correct. You can swap cranks, rods, and pistons and you'll have a 391.

> 2) what are the differences in these parts between the FT and FE series
> motors?  does a 360 and 361 share the same crank, etc, and likewise do the
> 390 and 391?  What I'm getting at is this: how hard would it be to find
the
> crank, rods and pistons for a 391 to do the conversion?

Differences between the FT's and FE's? FT blocks may or may not have a
higher nickel content, but the blocks do have more iron. Reinforcement ribs,
thicker cylinders, etc... FT cranks are forged steel with a larger snout for
use with pto's, and the flywheel flange is thicker to support the larger
flywheel and clutch. The oil pump driveshaft in FT's is thicker, along with
an oil pump and distributor to fit the larger shaft. As long as you look in
F500's and F600's, you shouldn't have much of a problem finding parts.

> 3) Can a 391(or 361) be used in a F-250?  Would tranny compatibility be a
> problem?  Would there be any other problems with doing this?

Mabye. If you can get the 13" or 14" clutch and bellhousing under the floor
board of the F250, it'll work. The other option is to have the crank flange
machined down to match that of an FE, so you can use an 11" or 12" clutch
with a regular FE bellhousing and tranny.

As far as I know, most of this info is correct, however, I have been wrong
before!:-)
Jason Kendrick



------------------------------

From: "Ken Schneider" <fordemail sunsetcoast.com>
Subject: Re: Anodizing remover, source
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 16:52:57 -0400

It's called Sodium Hydroxide.
Have your kids bug their chemistry teacher for a spare jar....  I once took
a piece in on lab day, everyone was amazed...

Ken
(in college now)
SW Michigan

68 F100 360/C6/3.25
88 Crown Vic 5.0/AOD
89 G*C S15 Jimmy 4.3/700R4/3.42 (Winter Beater)


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 16:43:57 -0500
From: Stu Varner <nukegm ford-trucks.com>
Subject: K and N filters

Guys and Gals,

I have one on my 71 with a 360 (closed stock air box), one on my 95 Crown
Vic since new and I will be buying the "kit" for my V-10 Excursion.  I
figure if I plan on keeping a vehicle for 100,000 miles, I may as well buy
one filter for 40 bucks or so instead on one for 6 bucks every 5,000
miles......saves money in the long run and may improve performance some.
Improved performance was more noticeable on my 89 Mercury and the 95 Crown
Vic than on the 71.

I like em and have seen no negative side effects in over 200,000 combined
miles on my Fords and Mercs.  Money wise, I feel I am ahead vs the price of
new paper elements every 5k.

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm  (for sale!!!!!)

At 12:33 PM 10/4/00 GMT, you wrote:
>Wow John, looks like you kicked the hornet's nest, fortunately its all pretty
>calm, but I never expected this many people to be runnin K&N's on this list
>...
>>
>
>In what sense ?  It is actually an
FRPP/SVO/FMS/whateverythey'recalledthisweek
>part if you go into Ford ... so they've obviously "bought into" this as well.
> I think theirs might even use a cool blue element instead of the reddish oil

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dains" <cdains earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: a cleaner a cleaner
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 17:15:20 -0700


I guess I was misunderstood by some.  Rich writes:
"With all that "increased gusto", could it be that you tend to stick your foot into it more often and that's what's lowering your mileage?"
My statement for 2-4 MPG increase refers that I got more mileage out of a gallon around town in normal driving, not less.  Less comes when I play :) I feel its worth the money, but to each his own. 6 of one or half dozen of the other????
Someone posted all the air filter results.  Obviously theres other great alternatives. I'm getting out of the hornets nest......Vive la FORD.

Chris
77F250




------------------------------

From: "Jeffery Hansen" <billybobjoehansen hotmail.com>
Subject: The Muny Pit
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 22:27:17 GMT

Hey Rich - anybody else.  What I didn't mention on the list the other day
along with the chunks of cast coming out in the oil was an inch long peice
of very small wire - all balled on one end - looked just like a peice of mig
welding wire.  The opposite end was heat colored and flattened like it was
stuck beneath a bearing or something.  Well, Rich, showed it to a GSM today
- he got me to take a much closer look at it - it's NOT mig wire - it's
square. (that's how small this thing is - probably .5mm dia.  He says it's a
bearing or ring edge.  Any ideas at all???
On another note - hold the fort closed, stop the press.  Went to the
minimart a block away to get a can of my favorite stress releaf - might just
have dug myself out from under the Muny Pit.  Young Sailor oohing and ahing
it to death - so I just showed him how brand spanking new everything on the
entire truck was - 'cept the paint and dirt under the seat of coarse and
told him for the low low price of 6 G's he could be the proud owner.  Is
going to call dad tonight.  Guess I'll find out tonight or tomarrow if there
really is a god.
_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Stiff steering update
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:35:01 -0400

I posted a little while ago saying that the steering on my truck was getting
progressively stiffer. Thank you to one and all who responded with
suggestions. Someone replied to take things apart to isolate the problem
(damn but I hate the obvious being pointed out). Yesterday the weather
worked with my day off and I pulled the steering shaft as the start of
tracking things. Guess what, the universal was seized damn near solid on one
travel and barely moving on the other. A call to the parts store reveals
they don't carry aftermarket and the FORD dealer only wanted $800.00 for it
(I still can't stop laughing). A half hour with oil and working in the vice
and everything is as good as new (almost).
Just thought I would pass it along in case anyone else runs into the same
problem.
John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Starting Electrics?
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 16:23:52 -0700

> Concerning the starter, Most auto parts stores test them for free
You can test your own starter at home with a battery and a set of jumper
cables (and a screwdriver or jumper wire for starters with the solenoid
mounted on them)

Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is a handful of warm deer guts


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Stiff steering update
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 16:27:37 -0700

You can get a Borgeson replacement shaft with a replaceable bearing for a
lot less than $800.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is a handful of warm deer guts


------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 19:29:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Coil voltage

In a message dated 10/4/00 7:39:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
maggie11 HiWAAY.net writes:

<< No reason you can't use a ballast from
M*PAR to do the job if the '78/'79 is not equipped with the resistive wire.
.. They serve
the same purpose, and the coil ain't going to know which you are using.

Azie Magnusson >>

Bill,

I agree with Azie that a MoPar ballast would work.  The idea behind the
resistor is to kept the voltage in a range where the current will not be
excessive across the points when they open and still cause a spark to be
delivered that will jump the plug gap.  In order to do this the resistor
varies the voltage from approximately 2.8 volts to 3.4 volts.  At low rpm the
time that the points are closed is greater than at higher RPMs, therefore
more current flows and the resistor heats up.  The relationship between
resistance and temperature is direct, such that the now warmer resistor has
more resistance and thus lower current.  As RPM increases the amount of time
that the points stay shut is less and current goes down, and the resistor
cools some and the resistance goes down giving both voltage and current a
boost to develop a constant spark.  Anyway, an externally mounted resistor
for any 12 volt system by any manufacture should work.  The resistor has to
be mounted such that it can be cooled, in other words not shielded from
moving air under the hood.  To summarize, the resistor keeps the voltage and
current at the bare minimum to lengthen point life and at a value that still
properly fires a cylinder.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 16:35:10 -0700
From: Eric <ekdonaldson bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Coil voltage

I did as Azie suggests and used a Mopar ceramic ballast resistor ($5).
Remember to keep a separate wire w/o resistor for starting or you'll find
it very hard to start, if it starts at all.


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 20:22:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Suspension?

I am in the process of doing the same thing to my truck I only went with
approx. a 4-5" lift. I say approx. because I went to my local spring shop and
had a new set made got them extra heavy duty couse I have a 300 lb. plow and
frame that sits on them in the winter. I paid $300 for the fronts.  I went to
a salvage yard and got the rears from an 86 F250heavy duty (9leafs) real
cheap. As far as installation it wasn't bad a couple of jack stands and a
good jack and of course a little bit of yanking and braking trying to get the
old ones off.

------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: K and N filters
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:00:47 -0500

I'm about to be running a K&N on my hi-po 300 =P

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Stu Varner
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 4:44 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] K and N filters


Guys and Gals,

I have one on my 71 with a 360 (closed stock air box), one on my 95 Crown
Vic since new and I will be buying the "kit" for my V-10 Excursion.  I
figure if I plan on keeping a vehicle for 100,000 miles, I may as well buy
one filter for 40 bucks or so instead on one for 6 bucks every 5,000
miles......saves money in the long run and may improve performance some.
Improved performance was more noticeable on my 89 Mercury and the 95 Crown
Vic than on the 71.

I like em and have seen no negative side effects in over 200,000 combined
miles on my Fords and Mercs.  Money wise, I feel I am ahead vs the price of
new paper elements every 5k.

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm  (for sale!!!!!)

At 12:33 PM 10/4/00 GMT, you wrote:
>Wow John, looks like you kicked the hornet's nest, fortunately its all
pretty
>calm, but I never expected this many people to be runnin K&N's on this list
>...
>>
>
>In what sense ?  It is actually an
FRPP/SVO/FMS/whateverythey'recalledthisweek
>part if you go into Ford ... so they've obviously "bought into" this as
well.
> I think theirs might even use a cool blue element instead of the reddish
oil
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------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: K & N vs the rest
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:03:01 -0500

Just on weekends? =P

-----Original Message-----
From: u00008 ford-trucks.net [mailto:u00008 ford-trucks.net]On Behalf Of
wish
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 12:39 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: K & N vs the rest


>The air filter article confirms my
>contention that the K&N provides no significant benefit to the typical
daily

>driver.
>

And John, that's why your truck and car are mostly stock, you want a typical
daily driver ... however in the case of my car, it spends almost every
weekend
finding the adhesion limits of the tires ... the truck, well I could
probably
get by with less, but then what fun would a power slide in 6" of snow be if
I couldn't get the power on ?
....


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