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61-79-list Digest Tue, 03 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 273

In This Issue:
Re: hesitation-thanks
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: '68 gas tank replacement
Steeing rag joint
] Re: side trim mouldings
Re: ] Re: side trim mouldings
Re: side trim mouldings
Re: side trim mouldings
Re: side trim mouldings
Re: side trim mouldings
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: Front Brake Hoses
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: Front Brake Hoses
Re: aluminum trim restoration
FE Rocker Springs
The Muny Pit
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: side trim mouldings

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: hesitation-thanks
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:19:48 -0500

Thanks Tim.
I got the problem figured out *woohoo*
thanks everyone that chipped in a little bit of advice.
some of the vacuum hoses were rotted out so i replaced those and i fiddled
with the mixture screws, and now it purrs like a kitten.
next project to fix my tail lights...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Allen Smith" <hydrosmith yahoo.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 3:17 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: hesitation


> Sounds all too familiar to me. I had the problem you describe in my '69
> f-250 w/390 2V after I swapped in a remanufactured replacement that was
> done by Holley. None of the tuning was even close out of the box.
> First, warm it up, make sure that your timing is right on and start
> turning in the mixture screws until it wants to die and then back off a
> half a turn. Remember to turn the screws slowly and keep them equal(1/4
> turn at a time for each). I then moved the linkage for the accelerator
> pump to the hole closest(inboard) to the carb. this is what worked for
> me.
> Hope it helps!
> P.S. Another thought, it could also be a dirty fuel filter.



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:30:59 -0500


With a K&N air filter cleaning kit

---Garrett www.1966ford.com
 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Clare Waterman-Storer
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 10:05 AM
 Subject: [61-79-list] a cleaner air cleaner


 Dear Gurus,

 To settle a discussion:

 What is the proper way to clean a K&N type air filter?

 TIA

 Clare


 -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
 -- Type: text/x-vcard
 -- File: waterman.vcf
 -- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer




------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:37:44 -0500

Here are the instructions K & N give
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 11:30 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: a cleaner air cleaner


>
> With a K&N air filter cleaning kit
>
> ---Garrett www.1966ford.com
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Clare Waterman-Storer
>   To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>   Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 10:05 AM
>   Subject: [61-79-list] a cleaner air cleaner
>
>
>   Dear Gurus,
>
>   To settle a discussion:
>
>   What is the proper way to clean a K&N type air filter?
>
>   TIA
>
>   Clare
>
>
>   -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
>   -- Type: text/x-vcard
>   -- File: waterman.vcf
>   -- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer
>
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 12:43:06 -0700
From: William King <kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu>
Subject: Re: '68 gas tank replacement

Geo,
I know that this doesn't really answer your question about whether
there's a tank that will mount between the frame-rails, but...
There's another option on relocating a gas tank, but I think it's
a "second place" contendor behind the Isuzu tank.  You can install
a Ch*vy 16 or 20 gal. exploding, side-saddle tank on the driver's
side of your truck.  They mount on the outside of the frame-rail,
thus increasing the possibility that the tank will rupture if your
truck is T-boned. The 16 gallon will mount and fit with out altering
anything under the truck, but the 20 gallon requires a little cutting
and a little modification to the DS cab floor (under the seat).
I installed a 20 gallon (which I got for free at a wrecking yard)
in my truck before I knew about this list.  It works pretty good
(20 gallons beats 16, and I now have more room in the cab.  I even
got my 68 sender unit to work in the Ch*vy tank.
The distinct disadvantage is that these tanks are prone to rupturing
in side-impacts...not the safest thing to do.

When I get the chance I plan to either Isuzu-tank my truck (wonder if
it will fit w/ my trailer hitch on there?), or make a custon tank for
the rear.  But for now, those 20 gals gives me plenty of gas to dodge
other vehicles.
Just a thought...

Ohio Bill
1968 Torino GT 429 4v 4 speed
1968 F100 360 2v 4 speed

>I know that this has been tossed around before but I have not seen a
>resolution.  I want to remove the gas tank in the cab of my 1968 f100 and
>relocate to between the frame rails if possible.  Any one done this and if
so >what tank did you use?  Along the same lines, is there a book or site
for >parts interchange for the Ford pickups?


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: Steeing rag joint
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:20:14 -0400


Rag joint kits for several vehicles are available in the "Help" line or other brands at most auto stores. Keep in mind the Ford trucks had problem with rusting front cab mounts that dropped the body down and put pressure on steering column and it's workings. This is a very common problem and few people wish to believe it or repair it to fix lots of problems with col and shifting problems on 3-spds, etc.
So, check the mounts first, Then repair col joint.
                                                  "G"


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: ] Re: side trim mouldings
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 13:08:33 -0400




> >>Any tips on cleaning or restoring the side and bottom chrome (aluminum)
> >>mouldings on a 73 XLT
====================================================
at the truck stops there is polish we use for semi truck aluminum wheels
thats real easy to use about all you do is rub it on till it turns a dark
gray or black then let it dry and wipe it off then for a good shine
you might try some of it if your nearby where you can get it
gordon



------------------------------

From: Matt Senn <msenn avistacom.net>
Subject: Re: ] Re: side trim mouldings
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 10:17:29 -0700

i've used a product called "never dull" from eagle-1 (is appears to be like
0000 steel wool soaked with a solvent) . . . it's available in the auto
department at wal*mart and it seems to do a pretty nice job of shining up
the old dull chrome



-----Original Message-----
From: G & J Boling [mailto:flash1 alltel.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 11:09 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] ] Re: side trim mouldings





> >>Any tips on cleaning or restoring the side and bottom chrome (aluminum)
> >>mouldings on a 73 XLT
====================================================
at the truck stops there is polish we use for semi truck aluminum wheels
thats real easy to use about all you do is rub it on till it turns a dark
gray or black then let it dry and wipe it off then for a good shine
you might try some of it if your nearby where you can get it
gordon


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Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 12:17:28 -0500
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Here are the instructions K & N give
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning.htm

Talk about snake oil....Asbestos undies securely in place. A typical street
machine doesn't need this filter. A rock crawler, a racer, Tweety in the
desert, I can see. A daily driver on a freeway...save your money. Throw the
dirt away, all of the dirt. Air filter elements don't cost that much.

I know: that wasn't Clare's question. I can see the blood boiling now....

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 17:11:13 GMT
Subject: Re: side trim mouldings

>Scotch brite works for various things, the pad isn't steel so you can use it

>on aluminum, *if you use steel wool on aluminum it makes it rust*.

Makes what rust ?  The aluminum ?  It may oxidize if you pull the protective
coating off and don't wax it or something, but since rust is typically iron
oxide ...

I think it would also depend on how dirty things were, mine were rough and a
little oxidized to start with ... now they're smooth and shiny, that's been
6 mo. or so, and haven't looked real close but haven't noticed any rust ...


John, I think Dad uses that polish like you're talking about, I know he's got
some good chrome polish that works really well and is in a bottle similar to
what you describe, don't know the brand or anything on it ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: side trim mouldings
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 13:20:30 -0500

> >Scotch brite works for various things, the pad isn't steel so you can use
it
>
> >on aluminum, *if you use steel wool on aluminum it makes it rust*.
>
> Makes what rust ?  The aluminum ?  It may oxidize if you pull the
protective
> coating off and don't wax it or something, but since rust is typically
iron
> oxide ...
>
> I think it would also depend on how dirty things were, mine were rough and
a
> little oxidized to start with ... now they're smooth and shiny, that's
been
> 6 mo. or so, and haven't looked real close but haven't noticed any rust
...
>
>
> John, I think Dad uses that polish like you're talking about, I know he's
got
> some good chrome polish that works really well and is in a bottle similar
to
> what you describe, don't know the brand or anything on it ...
>
> Just my $.02
> wish

When you use steel wool little particles of steel come off and stick into
the aluminum and causes rust.  Well that's from my experiences.  I never did
wax or put a protective coating over it though so that i might help....  I
also have heard about the polish that you guys are talking about.  My
buddies dad is a trucker and he mentioned to me a few nights ago when we
were discussing my truck.  I'll try to find the name out.

-Don




------------------------------

From: Natp244 cs.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 14:50:31 EDT
Subject: Re: side trim mouldings

In a message dated 10/3/00 1:20:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
don.thurlow greenbaynet.com writes:

<< When you use steel wool little particles of steel come off and stick into
the aluminum and causes rust.  Well that's from my experiences.  I never did
wax or put a protective coating over it though so that i might help....  I
also have heard about the polish that you guys are talking about.  My
buddies dad is a trucker and he mentioned to me a few nights ago when we
were discussing my truck.  I'll try to find the name out. >>

I've heard the same thing about using steel wool.  In fact, I've read that
you should never use it on chrome or aluminum for the same reasons.
I've used a product called Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish that works very
well- it sounds similar to the stuff you all are talking about, but I'm sure
there are probably several such products.  If the trim is going to be taken
off of the truck, it can be buffed.  Eastwood has a line of products for this
and their catalog has a table in it to help you figure out which compounds to
use in the process.  I've been told that if you do this you will need to
clear coat it because the anodizing is stripped off and aluminum oxide (that
dull, white powdery looking stuff) will form right back if its not sealed.
in fact, if the anodizing is gone (I'm guessing it probably is since it's
dulled)you might want to do this anyway.

Nate

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: side trim mouldings
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:04:35 -0400

I
> also have heard about the polish that you guys are talking about.  My
> buddies dad is a trucker and he mentioned to me a few nights ago when we
> were discussing my truck.  I'll try to find the name out.
>
> -Don
=============================================
what i have been using is called Gooses Magic Mix Metal Polish
it works pretty good and is easy to use no hard scrubbing or rubbing either
i use it on polished aluminum wheels and fuel tanks just rub it on till it
turns dark then let it dry and buff it off with any kind of rag ive even
used paper towels to remove it  with good results it can also be used in
direct hot sun to ive tried that as well
gordon



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 13:57:01 -0500
Subject: Re: side trim mouldings
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> John, I think Dad uses that polish like you're talking about, I know he's got
> some good chrome polish that works really well and is in a bottle similar to
> what you describe, don't know the brand or anything on it ...

I don't know that Turtle Wax is the best, but it is what I have. I use it on
my exhaust tips all of the time. It works well on my ss tailgate guard, too.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:06:11 -0400

Talk about snake oil....Asbestos undies securely in place. A typical street
> machine doesn't need this filter
====================================================
from what i read some wheres the reason K&N filters flow more is because
they dont filter as much and let more dirt into the engine
gordon



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 14:17:39 -0500
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Talk about snake oil....Asbestos undies securely in place. A typical street
>> machine doesn't need this filter
> ====================================================
> from what i read some wheres the reason K&N filters flow more is because
> they dont filter as much and let more dirt into the engine
> gordon

Besides, I don't want a garden hose near my carb or anything that bolts to
it. Doesn't cotton shrink when you get it wet? My blue jeans sure do. I
think that's why they peddle pre-shrunk. If I was going to replace my stock
F150 351m air cleaner, I would go for the chrome open-all-around style or
hunt a chrome one with a snorkel so I could retain the fresh air feed from
the front of the radiator.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 14:23:00 -0500

Hey John.
If you have a 351M? what kind of performance parts can you get for it? i
know the motor can be built up pretty well but i don't know where to start?
>
> Besides, I don't want a garden hose near my carb or anything that bolts to
> it. Doesn't cotton shrink when you get it wet? My blue jeans sure do. I
> think that's why they peddle pre-shrunk. If I was going to replace my
stock
> F150 351m air cleaner, I would go for the chrome open-all-around style or
> hunt a chrome one with a snorkel so I could retain the fresh air feed from
> the front of the radiator.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 12:15:17 -0700
From: Clare Waterman-Storer <waterman scripps.edu>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner

>
> it. Doesn't cotton shrink when you get it wet? My blue jeans sure do. I
> think that's why they peddle pre-shrunk.

only shrinks when you wash in HOT water and dry with HOT air.  shouldnt be a
problem rinsing a cotton filter element




-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: text/x-vcard
-- File: waterman.vcf
-- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:43:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tim Allen Smith <hydrosmith yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Front Brake Hoses

Hi Burt, I am in Shelton, WA (about 2hrs. from you I think) and my
local Schuck's auto supply has always been good to me in finding stuff
for my '69 F-250. I put on some rebuilt calipers from them 2 mos. ago
and they turned out to be rebuilt originals for the cheapest. Had them
and NAPA bidding for the lowest price.



>>>>>From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 22:11:38 EDT
Subject: Front Brake Hoses

Any help on this problem will be greatly appreciated.  I need need new
brake
hoses on the front of my 1972 F-250 4x4.  Sounds simple, but it is not,

I
have been looking now for about a month.  I have gotten quite a
selection
during that time and none of them are the right ones.  I ordered them
twice
from LMC and wrong each time.  I ask them if they had anyone technical
that I
could talk to, and they said no.  Their catalog is wrong and they said
they
noted it.  Not much help.  The hoses have a 3/16 flare on one end and a

1/4
machine threaded pipe that screws into the wheel cylinder on the other
end.
The local parts houses have not been any help either.  Does anyone know

the
trick here?
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460




=====
1969 F-250 Camper Special Custom Cab 390 2V C-6 Dana 60 Limited Slip (my baby)
1995 Escort 4-dr 1.9L (hers)
1986 Mustang 2.3L (hers)

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 14:45:45 -0500
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Hey John.
> If you have a 351M? what kind of performance parts can you get for it? i
> know the motor can be built up pretty well but i don't know where to start?

Sorry, I don't have a clue. I'm pretty much bone stock. If I was looking for
performance I'd either turn it into a 400 or swap in a 460. The only thing I
am looking to do down the road aways (must be a Southern expression, the
spell checker didn't like it) is to junk the 2 barrel carb and put on a
Rochester QuadraJet. I know, it's not Ford, but I know how to work on them
and make them work.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:48:59 EDT
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner

In a message dated 10/3/00 10:18:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:

<< Talk about snake oil....Asbestos undies securely in place. A typical street
machine doesn't need this filter. A rock crawler, a racer, Tweety in the
desert, I can see. A daily driver on a freeway...save your money. Throw the
dirt away, all of the dirt. Air filter elements don't cost that much.
 >>

Yup, shes got one. 14''x4''.  Best thing about it though was when I switched
to it from the stock closed element, the carb was exponentially louder, which
is way cool on the freeway when you stomp it and hear that big block start to
breathin deep.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Front Brake Hoses
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:52:26 -0700

I used to work for Checker/Schucks/Kragen.  They have a book under the
counter (yup, it's not "in the computer")that lists the hoses by length and
end type (along with drawings).  I used to use the book all the time to find
longer than stock hoses for guys that had lifted trucks.

On the calipers:  AFAIK, no one is reproducing the calipers.  All of them
are "rebuilt originals" (castings come from Ford), regardless of who the
rebuilder is...

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Allen Smith [mailto:hydrosmith yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 12:43 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Front Brake Hoses


Hi Burt, I am in Shelton, WA (about 2hrs. from you I think) and my
local Schuck's auto supply has always been good to me in finding stuff
for my '69 F-250. I put on some rebuilt calipers from them 2 mos. ago
and they turned out to be rebuilt originals for the cheapest. Had them
and NAPA bidding for the lowest price.




------------------------------

From: "Gagnon, Raymond J" <GagnonRJ navair.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: aluminum trim restoration
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:49:29 -0400

Any tips on cleaning or restoring the side and bottom chrome (aluminum)
mouldings on a 73 XLT?  My truck is being painted, wanted to get the chrome
ready in the meantime.  Other than trying to find the expensive NOS, what
are my options?   Most of my piece have the slight milky whitish
discoloration.

BKP,

That milky white discoloration is the anodizing, it must be chemically
stripped.  I think Eastwood has the stuff to de-anodize your aluminum trim,
don't leave it on too long it'll eat the trim itself.  Once the anodize is
gone, buff the aluminum it will get really polished & shiny.  Then you can
either clearcoat with paint or have it re-anodized, if you re-anodize it, it
will get duller than clearcoat finish but last longer.
Been there/done that myself.  I clearcoated, but I don't use the car much.

Ray G

------------------------------

From: "Dave Emerick" <djemerick hotmail.com>
Subject: FE Rocker Springs
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 15:15:06 EST

I'm in the ongoing, current redo of my 390....the heads have been taken in
for machine work, and I want some opinions.  The rocker shaft springs are
looking pretty thin on the ends where the rockers rub, and I'd like to
replace.  I see in my P.A.W. catalog, that they sell aluminum tube
seperators to replace these springs.  Anybody ever used these...I realize
they're nothing more than glorified aluminum tubing cut to length, but
wanted to how they would hold up in a daily driven truck vs. buying new
springs.

I checked at my local parts stores, and price wise, they're about the same
as springs....

Dave

P.S. - Went to the 4 Wheel Jamboree this past weekend in Indianapolis.  If
your anywhere near Indy...check it out next year....took the family, and we
all enjoyed ourselves.  Lots of nifty Ford trucks.....for example...walked
by a '70-71 F250 4x4 with a 428 CJ...very nice...
_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: "Jeffery Hansen" <billybobjoehansen hotmail.com>
Subject: The Muny Pit
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 20:15:14 GMT

Why yes he did try to blame me.  He tried to blame me when after I got the
block and all the parts back together and I went to instal the cam -got half
way through the second bearing and it was THERE.  No going in any further,
no coming out.  Had to cart the block with the cam stuck out back to him.
Yelling at me "what the hell did "I" do?"  Then - the very next night - got
the crank installed, torqued down, plastigage showing huge gap - called him
and he said it was fine, within specs.  Well, when I got to the rods - it
wasn't fine.  He had ordered the bearings backwards.  I needed .020 over on
the mains, .010 on the rods.  He had ordered vice versa.  After torquing
down just one rod - I couldn't turn it at all.
All Pro/A1 Auto parts/Machine shop there on Lewis Avenue in Wakegan IL for
any of you close to there and wondering where NOT to go.
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------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 19:20:19 GMT
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner

>Besides, I don't want a garden hose near my carb or anything that bolts to
>it.

Uhm ... I don't know about the others, but I take mine out when I wash it ...
call me weird ;)


> Doesn't cotton shrink when you get it wet? My blue jeans sure do. I
>think that's why they peddle pre-shrunk.

Usually that's a heat combination, and the reason I hang my jeans to dry them
... much less shrinkage, and us weirdo's with big legs need that (too much biking
and hockey I think)

> If I was going to replace my stock
>F150 351m air cleaner, I would go for the chrome open-all-around style or
>hunt a chrome one with a snorkel so I could retain the fresh air feed from

>the front of the radiator.
>

I did similar to this with the K&N filter ... again the performance gains are
probably negligible, as Darrell said the carb you can hear better and even the
throttlebody on my car was makin noise then (ringing if you will), but I've
since drowned that out with exhaust noises :) ... my main reason for going to
the K&N was I was tired of throwing away the paper elements every x miles, the
K&N has its "million mile" warranty, but frankly I can wash it when its dirty
and re-oil it rather than clutter up the trash with the filters ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:27:39 -0500

> > Hey John.
> > If you have a 351M? what kind of performance parts can you get for it? i
> > know the motor can be built up pretty well but i don't know where to
start?
>
> Sorry, I don't have a clue. I'm pretty much bone stock. If I was looking
for
> performance I'd either turn it into a 400 or swap in a 460. The only thing
I
> am looking to do down the road aways (must be a Southern expression, the
> spell checker didn't like it) is to junk the 2 barrel carb and put on a
> Rochester QuadraJet. I know, it's not Ford, but I know how to work on them
> and make them work.


I wonder then.  Does anyone know any performance parts for the 351M? Besides
putting a 4barrel on it?


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 15:39:14 -0500
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

>>Besides, I don't want a garden hose near my carb or anything that bolts to
>>it.
>
> Uhm ... I don't know about the others, but I take mine out when I wash it ...
> call me weird ;)

Well, duh, if I had one I'd put it on the ground or drive to wash it, too.
But how many people rush around and can't wait for it to quite dry and put
it on damp? What do you do in the winter? If you like it, great. It's just
one of those things I don't see the true advantage to.

Besides, I've seen people hosing off their engines at car washes, tilting
their lawnmowers up on its side and hosing it down, laying the hose down and
running water down the street because they are too lazy to walk two steps
and shut it off. Are you washing that oily gunk from the filter off onto the
ground? That's probably a violation of federal law plus you are putting oil
into the ground water.....Shall I rant on? Naw. Like Ken said about the
wonder carbs, if it's so great, why aren't the manufacturers licensing it?

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 17:46:50 -0400

<Naw. Like Ken said about the
<wonder carbs, if it's so great, why aren't the <manufacturers licensing it?

My cynical take would be $$; you get more money with people buying
disposable filters at tune up time then with them only using it once. Plus
cars are being made for the busy (lazy) individual who wants to drink a
coffee, check the lap top while sitting in the quick lube. Otherwise we
would have cleanable fine micron oil filters instead of filling the landfill
sites with disposable ones. My view only.

John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 16:56:43 -0700
From: dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner



JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:
> Best thing about it though was when I switched
> to it from the stock closed element, the carb was exponentially louder, which
> is way cool on the freeway when you stomp it and hear that big block start to
> breathin deep.

I got the same effect when I turned my stock air cleaner lid upside down
on my 460 town car .  :-)

She was a '77 . Dual turbo muffs and ALL of the pollution gadgets gone.
No temperature sensors for vacuum ,no EGR . Ignition timing right out of
the manifold .Only had vacuum for my heater controls .

Take that girl out Freeway cruisin' .... I'll tell you what ...  :-)

dPrasse


>
> Darrell & Tweety
>

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 18:31:24 EDT
Subject: Re: side trim mouldings

In a message dated 10/03/00 2:53:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Natp244 cs.com
writes:

<<
I've heard the same thing about using steel wool.  In fact, I've read that
you should never use it on chrome or aluminum for the same reasons.
I've used a product called Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish that works very
well- it sounds similar to the stuff you all are talking about, but I'm sure
there are probably several such products.  If the trim is going to be taken
off of the truck, it can be buffed.  Eastwood has a line of products for
this
and their catalog has a table in it to help you figure out which compounds
to
use in the process.  I've been told that if you do this you will need to
clear coat it because the anodizing is stripped off and aluminum oxide (that ....


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