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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 03 Oct 2000 17:35:56 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 17:35:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: 61-79-list digest users <listar Reply-to: 61-79-list Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #273 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Tue, 03 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 273 In This Issue: Re: hesitation-thanks Re: a cleaner air cleaner Re: a cleaner air cleaner Re: '68 gas tank replacement Steeing rag joint ] Re: side trim mouldings Re: ] Re: side trim mouldings Re: side trim mouldings Re: side trim mouldings Re: side trim mouldings Re: side trim mouldings Re: a cleaner air cleaner Re: a cleaner air cleaner Re: a cleaner air cleaner Re: Front Brake Hoses Re: a cleaner air cleaner Re: Front Brake Hoses Re: aluminum trim restoration FE Rocker Springs The Muny Pit Re: a cleaner air cleaner Re: a cleaner air cleaner Re: a cleaner air cleaner Re: a cleaner air cleaner Re: side trim mouldings ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow Subject: Re: hesitation-thanks Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:19:48 -0500 Thanks Tim. I got the problem figured out *woohoo* thanks everyone that chipped in a little bit of advice. some of the vacuum hoses were rotted out so i replaced those and i fiddled with the mixture screws, and now it purrs like a kitten. next project to fix my tail lights... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Allen Smith" <hydrosmith To: <61-79-list Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 3:17 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: hesitation > Sounds all too familiar to me. I had the problem you describe in my '69 > f-250 w/390 2V after I swapped in a remanufactured replacement that was > done by Holley. None of the tuning was even close out of the box. > First, warm it up, make sure that your timing is right on and start > turning in the mixture screws until it wants to die and then back off a > half a turn. Remember to turn the screws slowly and keep them equal(1/4 > turn at a time for each). I then moved the linkage for the accelerator > pump to the hole closest(inboard) to the carb. this is what worked for > me. > Hope it helps! > P.S. Another thought, it could also be a dirty fuel filter. ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:30:59 -0500 With a K&N air filter cleaning kit ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Clare Waterman-Storer To: 61-79-list Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 10:05 AM Subject: [61-79-list] a cleaner air cleaner Dear Gurus, To settle a discussion: What is the proper way to clean a K&N type air filter? TIA Clare -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: text/x-vcard -- File: waterman.vcf -- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer ------------------------------ From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:37:44 -0500 Here are the instructions K & N give http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson To: <61-79-list Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 11:30 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: a cleaner air cleaner > > With a K&N air filter cleaning kit > > ---Garrett www.1966ford.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Clare Waterman-Storer > To: 61-79-list > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 10:05 AM > Subject: [61-79-list] a cleaner air cleaner > > > Dear Gurus, > > To settle a discussion: > > What is the proper way to clean a K&N type air filter? > > TIA > > Clare > > > -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- > -- Type: text/x-vcard > -- File: waterman.vcf > -- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer > > > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 12:43:06 -0700 From: William King <kingw Subject: Re: '68 gas tank replacement Geo, I know that this doesn't really answer your question about whether there's a tank that will mount between the frame-rails, but... There's another option on relocating a gas tank, but I think it's a "second place" contendor behind the Isuzu tank. You can install a Ch*vy 16 or 20 gal. exploding, side-saddle tank on the driver's side of your truck. They mount on the outside of the frame-rail, thus increasing the possibility that the tank will rupture if your truck is T-boned. The 16 gallon will mount and fit with out altering anything under the truck, but the 20 gallon requires a little cutting and a little modification to the DS cab floor (under the seat). I installed a 20 gallon (which I got for free at a wrecking yard) in my truck before I knew about this list. It works pretty good (20 gallons beats 16, and I now have more room in the cab. I even got my 68 sender unit to work in the Ch*vy tank. The distinct disadvantage is that these tanks are prone to rupturing in side-impacts...not the safest thing to do. When I get the chance I plan to either Isuzu-tank my truck (wonder if it will fit w/ my trailer hitch on there?), or make a custon tank for the rear. But for now, those 20 gals gives me plenty of gas to dodge other vehicles. Just a thought... Ohio Bill 1968 Torino GT 429 4v 4 speed 1968 F100 360 2v 4 speed >I know that this has been tossed around before but I have not seen a >resolution. I want to remove the gas tank in the cab of my 1968 f100 and >relocate to between the frame rails if possible. Any one done this and if so >what tank did you use? Along the same lines, is there a book or site for >parts interchange for the Ford pickups? ------------------------------ From: "Gary Perry" <glperry Subject: Steeing rag joint Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:20:14 -0400 Rag joint kits for several vehicles are available in the "Help" line or other brands at most auto stores. Keep in mind the Ford trucks had problem with rusting front cab mounts that dropped the body down and put pressure on steering column and it's workings. This is a very common problem and few people wish to believe it or repair it to fix lots of problems with col and shifting problems on 3-spds, etc. So, check the mounts first, Then repair col joint. "G" ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: ] Re: side trim mouldings Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 13:08:33 -0400 > >>Any tips on cleaning or restoring the side and bottom chrome (aluminum) > >>mouldings on a 73 XLT ==================================================== at the truck stops there is polish we use for semi truck aluminum wheels thats real easy to use about all you do is rub it on till it turns a dark gray or black then let it dry and wipe it off then for a good shine you might try some of it if your nearby where you can get it gordon ------------------------------ From: Matt Senn <msenn Subject: Re: ] Re: side trim mouldings Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 10:17:29 -0700 i've used a product called "never dull" from eagle-1 (is appears to be like 0000 steel wool soaked with a solvent) . . . it's available in the auto department at wal*mart and it seems to do a pretty nice job of shining up the old dull chrome -----Original Message----- From: G & J Boling [mailto:flash1 Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 11:09 AM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] ] Re: side trim mouldings > >>Any tips on cleaning or restoring the side and bottom chrome (aluminum) > >>mouldings on a 73 XLT ==================================================== at the truck stops there is polish we use for semi truck aluminum wheels thats real easy to use about all you do is rub it on till it turns a dark gray or black then let it dry and wipe it off then for a good shine you might try some of it if your nearby where you can get it gordon ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 12:17:28 -0500 Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > Here are the instructions K & N give > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning.htm Talk about snake oil....Asbestos undies securely in place. A typical street machine doesn't need this filter. A rock crawler, a racer, Tweety in the desert, I can see. A daily driver on a freeway...save your money. Throw the dirt away, all of the dirt. Air filter elements don't cost that much. I know: that wasn't Clare's question. I can see the blood boiling now.... -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 17:11:13 GMT Subject: Re: side trim mouldings >Scotch brite works for various things, the pad isn't steel so you can use it >on aluminum, *if you use steel wool on aluminum it makes it rust*. Makes what rust ? The aluminum ? It may oxidize if you pull the protective coating off and don't wax it or something, but since rust is typically iron oxide ... I think it would also depend on how dirty things were, mine were rough and a little oxidized to start with ... now they're smooth and shiny, that's been 6 mo. or so, and haven't looked real close but haven't noticed any rust ... John, I think Dad uses that polish like you're talking about, I know he's got some good chrome polish that works really well and is in a bottle similar to what you describe, don't know the brand or anything on it ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow Subject: Re: side trim mouldings Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 13:20:30 -0500 > >Scotch brite works for various things, the pad isn't steel so you can use it > > >on aluminum, *if you use steel wool on aluminum it makes it rust*. > > Makes what rust ? The aluminum ? It may oxidize if you pull the protective > coating off and don't wax it or something, but since rust is typically iron > oxide ... > > I think it would also depend on how dirty things were, mine were rough and a > little oxidized to start with ... now they're smooth and shiny, that's been > 6 mo. or so, and haven't looked real close but haven't noticed any rust ... > > > John, I think Dad uses that polish like you're talking about, I know he's got > some good chrome polish that works really well and is in a bottle similar to > what you describe, don't know the brand or anything on it ... > > Just my $.02 > wish When you use steel wool little particles of steel come off and stick into the aluminum and causes rust. Well that's from my experiences. I never did wax or put a protective coating over it though so that i might help.... I also have heard about the polish that you guys are talking about. My buddies dad is a trucker and he mentioned to me a few nights ago when we were discussing my truck. I'll try to find the name out. -Don ------------------------------ From: Natp244 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 14:50:31 EDT Subject: Re: side trim mouldings In a message dated 10/3/00 1:20:08 PM Central Daylight Time, don.thurlow << When you use steel wool little particles of steel come off and stick into the aluminum and causes rust. Well that's from my experiences. I never did wax or put a protective coating over it though so that i might help.... I also have heard about the polish that you guys are talking about. My buddies dad is a trucker and he mentioned to me a few nights ago when we were discussing my truck. I'll try to find the name out. >> I've heard the same thing about using steel wool. In fact, I've read that you should never use it on chrome or aluminum for the same reasons. I've used a product called Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish that works very well- it sounds similar to the stuff you all are talking about, but I'm sure there are probably several such products. If the trim is going to be taken off of the truck, it can be buffed. Eastwood has a line of products for this and their catalog has a table in it to help you figure out which compounds to use in the process. I've been told that if you do this you will need to clear coat it because the anodizing is stripped off and aluminum oxide (that dull, white powdery looking stuff) will form right back if its not sealed. in fact, if the anodizing is gone (I'm guessing it probably is since it's dulled)you might want to do this anyway. Nate ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: Re: side trim mouldings Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:04:35 -0400 I > also have heard about the polish that you guys are talking about. My > buddies dad is a trucker and he mentioned to me a few nights ago when we > were discussing my truck. I'll try to find the name out. > > -Don ============================================= what i have been using is called Gooses Magic Mix Metal Polish it works pretty good and is easy to use no hard scrubbing or rubbing either i use it on polished aluminum wheels and fuel tanks just rub it on till it turns dark then let it dry and buff it off with any kind of rag ive even used paper towels to remove it with good results it can also be used in direct hot sun to ive tried that as well gordon ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 13:57:01 -0500 Subject: Re: side trim mouldings From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > John, I think Dad uses that polish like you're talking about, I know he's got > some good chrome polish that works really well and is in a bottle similar to > what you describe, don't know the brand or anything on it ... I don't know that Turtle Wax is the best, but it is what I have. I use it on my exhaust tips all of the time. It works well on my ss tailgate guard, too. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:06:11 -0400 Talk about snake oil....Asbestos undies securely in place. A typical street > machine doesn't need this filter ==================================================== from what i read some wheres the reason K&N filters flow more is because they dont filter as much and let more dirt into the engine gordon ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 14:17:39 -0500 Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > Talk about snake oil....Asbestos undies securely in place. A typical street >> machine doesn't need this filter > ==================================================== > from what i read some wheres the reason K&N filters flow more is because > they dont filter as much and let more dirt into the engine > gordon Besides, I don't want a garden hose near my carb or anything that bolts to it. Doesn't cotton shrink when you get it wet? My blue jeans sure do. I think that's why they peddle pre-shrunk. If I was going to replace my stock F150 351m air cleaner, I would go for the chrome open-all-around style or hunt a chrome one with a snorkel so I could retain the fresh air feed from the front of the radiator. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 14:23:00 -0500 Hey John. If you have a 351M? what kind of performance parts can you get for it? i know the motor can be built up pretty well but i don't know where to start? > > Besides, I don't want a garden hose near my carb or anything that bolts to > it. Doesn't cotton shrink when you get it wet? My blue jeans sure do. I > think that's why they peddle pre-shrunk. If I was going to replace my stock > F150 351m air cleaner, I would go for the chrome open-all-around style or > hunt a chrome one with a snorkel so I could retain the fresh air feed from > the front of the radiator. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 12:15:17 -0700 From: Clare Waterman-Storer <waterman Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner > > it. Doesn't cotton shrink when you get it wet? My blue jeans sure do. I > think that's why they peddle pre-shrunk. only shrinks when you wash in HOT water and dry with HOT air. shouldnt be a problem rinsing a cotton filter element -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: text/x-vcard -- File: waterman.vcf -- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:43:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Tim Allen Smith <hydrosmith Subject: Re: Front Brake Hoses Hi Burt, I am in Shelton, WA (about 2hrs. from you I think) and my local Schuck's auto supply has always been good to me in finding stuff for my '69 F-250. I put on some rebuilt calipers from them 2 mos. ago and they turned out to be rebuilt originals for the cheapest. Had them and NAPA bidding for the lowest price. >>>>>From: SHill48337 Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 22:11:38 EDT Subject: Front Brake Hoses Any help on this problem will be greatly appreciated. I need need new brake hoses on the front of my 1972 F-250 4x4. Sounds simple, but it is not, I have been looking now for about a month. I have gotten quite a selection during that time and none of them are the right ones. I ordered them twice from LMC and wrong each time. I ask them if they had anyone technical that I could talk to, and they said no. Their catalog is wrong and they said they noted it. Not much help. The hoses have a 3/16 flare on one end and a 1/4 machine threaded pipe that screws into the wheel cylinder on the other end. The local parts houses have not been any help either. Does anyone know the trick here? Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ===== 1969 F-250 Camper Special Custom Cab 390 2V C-6 Dana 60 Limited Slip (my baby) 1995 Escort 4-dr 1.9L (hers) 1986 Mustang 2.3L (hers) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 14:45:45 -0500 Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > Hey John. > If you have a 351M? what kind of performance parts can you get for it? i > know the motor can be built up pretty well but i don't know where to start? Sorry, I don't have a clue. I'm pretty much bone stock. If I was looking for performance I'd either turn it into a 400 or swap in a 460. The only thing I am looking to do down the road aways (must be a Southern expression, the spell checker didn't like it) is to junk the 2 barrel carb and put on a Rochester QuadraJet. I know, it's not Ford, but I know how to work on them and make them work. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:48:59 EDT Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner In a message dated 10/3/00 10:18:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jlagrone << Talk about snake oil....Asbestos undies securely in place. A typical street machine doesn't need this filter. A rock crawler, a racer, Tweety in the desert, I can see. A daily driver on a freeway...save your money. Throw the dirt away, all of the dirt. Air filter elements don't cost that much. >> Yup, shes got one. 14''x4''. Best thing about it though was when I switched to it from the stock closed element, the carb was exponentially louder, which is way cool on the freeway when you stomp it and hear that big block start to breathin deep. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther Subject: Re: Front Brake Hoses Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:52:26 -0700 I used to work for Checker/Schucks/Kragen. They have a book under the counter (yup, it's not "in the computer")that lists the hoses by length and end type (along with drawings). I used to use the book all the time to find longer than stock hoses for guys that had lifted trucks. On the calipers: AFAIK, no one is reproducing the calipers. All of them are "rebuilt originals" (castings come from Ford), regardless of who the rebuilder is... -----Original Message----- From: Tim Allen Smith [mailto:hydrosmith Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 12:43 PM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Front Brake Hoses Hi Burt, I am in Shelton, WA (about 2hrs. from you I think) and my local Schuck's auto supply has always been good to me in finding stuff for my '69 F-250. I put on some rebuilt calipers from them 2 mos. ago and they turned out to be rebuilt originals for the cheapest. Had them and NAPA bidding for the lowest price. ------------------------------ From: "Gagnon, Raymond J" <GagnonRJ Subject: Re: aluminum trim restoration Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:49:29 -0400 Any tips on cleaning or restoring the side and bottom chrome (aluminum) mouldings on a 73 XLT? My truck is being painted, wanted to get the chrome ready in the meantime. Other than trying to find the expensive NOS, what are my options? Most of my piece have the slight milky whitish discoloration. BKP, That milky white discoloration is the anodizing, it must be chemically stripped. I think Eastwood has the stuff to de-anodize your aluminum trim, don't leave it on too long it'll eat the trim itself. Once the anodize is gone, buff the aluminum it will get really polished & shiny. Then you can either clearcoat with paint or have it re-anodized, if you re-anodize it, it will get duller than clearcoat finish but last longer. Been there/done that myself. I clearcoated, but I don't use the car much. Ray G ------------------------------ From: "Dave Emerick" <djemerick Subject: FE Rocker Springs Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 15:15:06 EST I'm in the ongoing, current redo of my 390....the heads have been taken in for machine work, and I want some opinions. The rocker shaft springs are looking pretty thin on the ends where the rockers rub, and I'd like to replace. I see in my P.A.W. catalog, that they sell aluminum tube seperators to replace these springs. Anybody ever used these...I realize they're nothing more than glorified aluminum tubing cut to length, but wanted to how they would hold up in a daily driven truck vs. buying new springs. I checked at my local parts stores, and price wise, they're about the same as springs.... Dave P.S. - Went to the 4 Wheel Jamboree this past weekend in Indianapolis. If your anywhere near Indy...check it out next year....took the family, and we all enjoyed ourselves. Lots of nifty Ford trucks.....for example...walked by a '70-71 F250 4x4 with a 428 CJ...very nice... _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ From: "Jeffery Hansen" <billybobjoehansen Subject: The Muny Pit Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 20:15:14 GMT Why yes he did try to blame me. He tried to blame me when after I got the block and all the parts back together and I went to instal the cam -got half way through the second bearing and it was THERE. No going in any further, no coming out. Had to cart the block with the cam stuck out back to him. Yelling at me "what the hell did "I" do?" Then - the very next night - got the crank installed, torqued down, plastigage showing huge gap - called him and he said it was fine, within specs. Well, when I got to the rods - it wasn't fine. He had ordered the bearings backwards. I needed .020 over on the mains, .010 on the rods. He had ordered vice versa. After torquing down just one rod - I couldn't turn it at all. All Pro/A1 Auto parts/Machine shop there on Lewis Avenue in Wakegan IL for any of you close to there and wondering where NOT to go. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 19:20:19 GMT Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner >Besides, I don't want a garden hose near my carb or anything that bolts to >it. Uhm ... I don't know about the others, but I take mine out when I wash it ... call me weird ;) > Doesn't cotton shrink when you get it wet? My blue jeans sure do. I >think that's why they peddle pre-shrunk. Usually that's a heat combination, and the reason I hang my jeans to dry them ... much less shrinkage, and us weirdo's with big legs need that (too much biking and hockey I think) > If I was going to replace my stock >F150 351m air cleaner, I would go for the chrome open-all-around style or >hunt a chrome one with a snorkel so I could retain the fresh air feed from >the front of the radiator. > I did similar to this with the K&N filter ... again the performance gains are probably negligible, as Darrell said the carb you can hear better and even the throttlebody on my car was makin noise then (ringing if you will), but I've since drowned that out with exhaust noises :) ... my main reason for going to the K&N was I was tired of throwing away the paper elements every x miles, the K&N has its "million mile" warranty, but frankly I can wash it when its dirty and re-oil it rather than clutter up the trash with the filters ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:27:39 -0500 > > Hey John. > > If you have a 351M? what kind of performance parts can you get for it? i > > know the motor can be built up pretty well but i don't know where to start? > > Sorry, I don't have a clue. I'm pretty much bone stock. If I was looking for > performance I'd either turn it into a 400 or swap in a 460. The only thing I > am looking to do down the road aways (must be a Southern expression, the > spell checker didn't like it) is to junk the 2 barrel carb and put on a > Rochester QuadraJet. I know, it's not Ford, but I know how to work on them > and make them work. I wonder then. Does anyone know any performance parts for the 351M? Besides putting a 4barrel on it? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 15:39:14 -0500 Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone >>Besides, I don't want a garden hose near my carb or anything that bolts to >>it. > > Uhm ... I don't know about the others, but I take mine out when I wash it ... > call me weird ;) Well, duh, if I had one I'd put it on the ground or drive to wash it, too. But how many people rush around and can't wait for it to quite dry and put it on damp? What do you do in the winter? If you like it, great. It's just one of those things I don't see the true advantage to. Besides, I've seen people hosing off their engines at car washes, tilting their lawnmowers up on its side and hosing it down, laying the hose down and running water down the street because they are too lazy to walk two steps and shut it off. Are you washing that oily gunk from the filter off onto the ground? That's probably a violation of federal law plus you are putting oil into the ground water.....Shall I rant on? Naw. Like Ken said about the wonder carbs, if it's so great, why aren't the manufacturers licensing it? -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "John Webster" <jwebster Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 17:46:50 -0400 <Naw. Like Ken said about the <wonder carbs, if it's so great, why aren't the <manufacturers licensing it? My cynical take would be $$; you get more money with people buying disposable filters at tune up time then with them only using it once. Plus cars are being made for the busy (lazy) individual who wants to drink a coffee, check the lap top while sitting in the quick lube. Otherwise we would have cleanable fine micron oil filters instead of filling the landfill sites with disposable ones. My view only. John '77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 16:56:43 -0700 From: dave Prasse <burgess4 Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner JUMPINFORD > Best thing about it though was when I switched > to it from the stock closed element, the carb was exponentially louder, which > is way cool on the freeway when you stomp it and hear that big block start to > breathin deep. I got the same effect when I turned my stock air cleaner lid upside down on my 460 town car . :-) She was a '77 . Dual turbo muffs and ALL of the pollution gadgets gone. No temperature sensors for vacuum ,no EGR . Ignition timing right out of the manifold .Only had vacuum for my heater controls . Take that girl out Freeway cruisin' .... I'll tell you what ... :-) dPrasse > > Darrell & Tweety > ------------------------------ From: GMontgo930 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 18:31:24 EDT Subject: Re: side trim mouldings In a message dated 10/03/00 2:53:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Natp244 writes: << I've heard the same thing about using steel wool. In fact, I've read that you should never use it on chrome or aluminum for the same reasons. I've used a product called Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish that works very well- it sounds similar to the stuff you all are talking about, but I'm sure there are probably several such products. If the trim is going to be taken off of the truck, it can be buffed. Eastwood has a line of products for this and their catalog has a table in it to help you figure out which compounds to use in the process. I've been told that if you do this you will need to clear coat it because the anodizing is stripped off and aluminum oxide (that .... 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