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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 02 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 272

In This Issue:
Re: sloppy steering
Re: slick 50... why?
'68 gas tank replacement
Re: Synteh vs. Dino Oil, LATE POST
Dana 44 rear end?
hesitation
A GROUP OF RECENT SUBJECTS
Front Brake Hoses
Re: The Muny Pit
Re: buy it?
Re: Front Brake Hoses
Re: Ford V10
side trim mouldings
Re: Synteh vs. Dino Oil, LATE POST
Re: Front Brake Hoses
Re: '68 gas tank replacement
Valvoline oil for high mileage engines
Re: hesitation
Re: '68 gas tank replacement
Re: side trim mouldings
Re: side trim mouldings
Re: side trim mouldings
Re: Column rebuild
a cleaner air cleaner
Re: a cleaner air cleaner
Re: Headlight Adjustment Nuts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 20:07:32 EDT
Subject: Re: sloppy steering

I had to replace mine about a year ago. Went to the local parts store about
ten bucks for a new rag joint.

------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 20:30:41 EDT
Subject: Re: slick 50... why?

I've been using an oil additive called RISLONE have never had a problem with
it in any of my engines.

------------------------------

From: "Geo" <cabal micron.net>
Subject: '68 gas tank replacement
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 18:39:00 -0600


Hello All,
   I know that this has been tossed around before but I have not seen a resolution.  I want to remove the gas tank in the cab of my 1968 f100 and relocate to between the frame rails if possible.  Any one done this and if so what tank did you use?  Along the same lines, is there a book or site for parts interchange for the Ford pickups?

Thanks for the help!

Geo

1968 f100 390


------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Synteh vs. Dino Oil, LATE POST
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 21:15:42 -0400

> ===================================================
> i had a semi truck lose darn near ALL the oil pressure 1000 miles from
home
> once i drained 5 gallon of oil out and stuck in 5 gallons of STP it was
> about 100 degrees out then to and drove it home then when i pulled the pan
> the cranks was still smooth as a babys butt i stuck new bearings and oil
> pump in her and she ran another 300,000 miles before breaking a wrist pin
> i,m a firm beleiver in STP on certain things like this
> gordon

I know this a late post to a dead subject, but I just returned from a
buisness trip and am still catching up on my Email.  Many years ago I had a
gentleman bring a mid 60's Ford P\U with a 300 6 cyl to me.  Seems that when
he changed his oil, he could only drain about 2-21/2 quarts of oil from it.
When I removed his oil pan, the sump was filled with a heavy gray colored
sludge with a hole in it down to the oil plug.  Turns out he used STP with
every oil change for years.  After talking with him, I think I discovered
the problem.  He alway's changed his oil with the engine cold.  He poured in
a can of STP, then the OIL.  Well, MOST of that STP went straight down to
the bottom of the pan without mixing with the oil.  As per the instructions
on the can, the motor should be running (and, I assume, warm) when you add
STP.  Based on this experience and consulting with several other mechanics,
I believe STP will not mix well with cold motor oil.

Rich

PS  Anybody have any Ideas about how effective \ whats in the new Valvoline
oil made for high mileage engines?  What could be different about it?  Snake
oil?



------------------------------

From: "Geo" <cabal micron.net>
Subject: Dana 44 rear end?
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:01:48 -0600


Hello again,
   Need some more help, rear axel ID on my 68 f100.  The tab is missing but I have found some numbers stamped into the passenger side axle, on the rear in this order:

                               8  16  7  B
       8  12  7B4                            602964-4

If anyone can give me the scoop on these numbers or point me in the right direction with a site I would be much appreciative.  Someone said it may be a DANA 44 but were not sure.  I have a pinion seal leak and was looking at the possibility of changing this one out.  Was a DANA 44 an option on the '68 or could this have been added later?  I have just bought this truck a month ago and know only that it was purchased by one B.L Trayor, 6/10/68 in Lander, Wyoming.  After that is gets hazy ;)

Thanks for the help
Geo
1968 f100 390



------------------------------

From: "Rob Hutson" <tx4wheeler cs.com>
Subject: hesitation
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 20:03:21 -0500

Check the power valve in the carb.  Especially  if it is a Motorcraft 2
barrel


From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: hesitation
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 09:45:28 -0500

Hey guys.
I just bought a 79 ford f-250 for $800.  It's got a 351M in it but when i
really stomp on it it will hesitate so bad that it will die.  I went and
bought the haynes manual for the truck and it says in there that it could be
the vacuum advance or timing.
What do you guys think?




Robert Hutson (TX4Wheeler)
1978 Ford Bronco
2BigBroncos South Chapter
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/hutsonr


------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject:  A GROUP OF RECENT SUBJECTS
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 21:52:59 -0400


From: Jeffery Hansen <
>    My point is - if you're happy and feel confident in Slick 50, STP,
and/or
> any particular brand of oil and what they say it will, it might, it
should,
> it could possibly do for you - then stick with it. where "We drained the
oil from these engines...."  Yeah - saw it myself that  night long long ago.

The teflon, that is contained in slick 50, I believe, was used in a few Indy
\ F1 type engines in the past.  The teflon was bonded to all surfaces that
made bearing contact.  The teflon was bonded to the surfaces utilizing a
baking\heat process.  I think Quaker State bought the rights to suck 50 and
lead you to believe that this same teflon can bond to your crank, cam and
other bearing\wear surface just by adding it to your oil.  Ever take apart a
motor that had this stuff added to the oil?  Ever see it bonded to any
bearing surface?  Ever look at the bottom of an oil pan that contained same?
I rest my case.  I think I believe DuPont on this issue.

> I KNOW - I HAD IT INGRAINED IN ME THAT COLD MORNING LONG AGO - BECAUSE
GUESS WHO HAD TO  WALK HOME AND GET THE TRACTOR AND LOG CHAIN.......You know
what I'm talking
> about there Rich.

AMEN Brodah!!

Rich



------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 22:11:38 EDT
Subject: Front Brake Hoses

Any help on this problem will be greatly appreciated.  I need need new brake
hoses on the front of my 1972 F-250 4x4.  Sounds simple, but it is not, I
have been looking now for about a month.  I have gotten quite a selection
during that time and none of them are the right ones.  I ordered them twice
from LMC and wrong each time.  I ask them if they had anyone technical that I
could talk to, and they said no.  Their catalog is wrong and they said they
noted it.  Not much help.  The hoses have a 3/16 flare on one end and a 1/4
machine threaded pipe that screws into the wheel cylinder on the other end.
The local parts houses have not been any help either.  Does anyone know the
trick here?
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: The Muny Pit
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 22:53:34 -0400


From: Jeffery Hansen To:
> For those of you out there who have heard my plethera of problems with
this
> beast.  Just changed the oil for the third time (6000 miles on the 69 429
> rebuild).  Full of cast iron chunks.  Chunks 1-3mm in jaggid diameter.
> Magnetic.  ???

Hmmm, not if it's cast Iron.

. Guy tells me could still be a cam  bearing journal (?) busted. Runs 86-90
PSI oil cold, 70 at
speed, 40 at idle warm.

I don't think so, you still have good oil pressure and your motor runs to
good.  (I heard it a few weeks ago)

, or bottom of a cylinder (.040 over) if the
> machine shop didn't get everything exactly true.

maybe.

Lets pull the pan and see.  As high as that monster is, it shouldn't be a
problem removing the oil pan in short order.

> which made me really question the $350  "balence" job the rotating mass
got (took 15 hrs and required heavy metal).
> That really "irked" the machinest you could say when I questioned it.

Most people are proud of their work and do a great job.  We all make
mistakes, that's why most shops have a workmanship warrantee.  Some people
get upset when you question their work. I feel, in most cases, these people
are incompetent and try to blame you, the customer, for the problem.  DON'T
GO BACK TO THEM!   Sorry list, just my experience.

Rich



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 20:41:43 -0600
From: "Randy Cannon" <rcannon ussynthetic.com>
Subject: Re: buy it?

I bought the f-250 supercab in question this weekend!  The rear axle is labeled
with 4.10 gears.  I already drove it 100+ miles and got just over 10 mpg.  (I
know- I really shouldn't even bother keeping track with the thirsty 460).

To re-gear it, is the preferred method just to find a different rear axle?  This
is something I would like to consider, as I don't typically tow anything over
3500 lbs, and it would be nice if the truck were a little more freeway-friendly.

The body is virtually rust/dent-free.  There is some surface rust just over the
right rear fender well, and some in the floors near the door sills.  The body
and paint work required should be minimal.

It does have dual tanks.  The switch seemed to work at first, as the reading on
the gauge accurately reflected the different levels in the tanks.  However,
after filling both tanks, running the forward tank half empty and letting it sit
overnight, I discovered the forward tank to be nearly full the next morning.  I
didn't suspect anyone of pumping free gas in my neighborhood, so I checked the
level in the rear tank and found it to be low.  I haven't lookeed but I suspect
the rear tank must sit slightly higher than the forward tank, and somehow there
is a slow drain of fuel from the rear to the forward tank.  Is this a reasonable
guess?  This will probably be a low priority repair, since there doesn't seem to
be a lack of fuel on the engine side of the system.

Steering is good and the gauge reads good oil pressure.  Still experiencing some
minor hesitation.  I plan to tear into the carb when I get a chance, having read
some of the other posts regarding hesitation.  Is a power valve the same as an
accelerator pump?

Thanks for all the great info
-Randy

:

> >
> >
> > I am considering the purchase of a '79 F-250 supercab (2 wd, 460, AT)
> > for $1500.
>
> Since it is an F-250 (3/4 ton) it has a heavier duty rear end, suitable for
> towing.  Also the gearing will probably be lower for towing.  Expect to get
> around 8 mpg.  If you were to re-gear it you may get as high as 11 or 12 mpg.
>
> Check for rust/bondo over rear wheel wells and rear corners of cabs.  Check
> the metal that the hood hinges bolt to for rust/ soundness.  It probably has
> dual tanks.  Switch is located on dash next to climate controls.  Verify it
> operates.  Looseness in steering could be frozen kingpins, worn out rag
> joint or worn steering components.  All of these can be fixed easily (well
> maybe not the kingpins).  If the dash guage reads low oil pressure check the
> rest of the guages.  If they all read low then the oil pressure is probably
> fine and the guages are off ($13 fix).
>
> Let us know.
>
> Tom H.
>
> PS where is it? ;0)
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Front Brake Hoses
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 21:37:54 -0700

   The best source for brake hardware that I'm aware of is
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pagebrake.com/

Michael
69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS
69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


> Any help on this problem will be greatly appreciated.  I need need new
brake
> hoses on the front of my 1972 F-250 4x4.  Sounds simple, but it is not, I
> have been looking now for about a month

> Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 22:53:48 -0500
From: Stu Varner <nukegm ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Ford V10

At 01:26 PM 10/2/00 -0500, you wrote:
>>>> What is the bore, stroke and displacement of the V10
>>>
>>>I couldnt tell ya, but from what I understand its just a 5.4 with 2 extra
>>
>>>cylinders.  I think its around 6.8 liters, but I could be wrong.
>>>
>>
>> Darrell you're very very close :)  It is 6.8L and it is basically a 5.4
with
>> 2 extra cylinders (the extra bonus is that FMS headers with a little
>modification
>> can suddenly work for V10 headers, just add another port to them with
the same
>> spacing and everything ...
>>
>> The bore and stroke is actually like 3.55x4.16
>
>Ok, so that's why it sounds like a honda and has no guts compared to a 460.
>It may say V10, but it is small. According to my calculations, a 460 is just
>a tad over 7.5 liters. A 460 is bigger and has a bigger bore. Like Gary and
>Azie say, there is no substitution for cubes.
>

The V-10 I have in my Excursion has really decent power considering the
rascal weighs in at over 6k.
I drove the 5.4 and felt the V-10 (415 cid) was the best way to go.

I have owned two Fords with the mod motors;
My wife's current driver, a 95 Special Service Crown Vic with a Police 4.6
- factory duals with an H-pipe, tranny cooler, oil cooler, 3.27 limited
slip rear.  It is a runner from mid range up - in fact it is downright
scary from mid range through a spooling.  The V-10 is very similar except
it does have gobbs more bottom end than
the 4.6 liter.

I love my FE's and feel the have super torque down low where it is needed -
but the feel of the V-10
vs. an FE is like comparing apples and oranges.  The V-10 will scoot when I
step on it just like the 4.6.
Saying it has no guts is simply not true.

Marino, you will be satisified (IMHO) with the V-10 in a standard cab
250 Super Duty.  They are noisy and make a roar (nothing like a Honda) when
you light into it...nothing like your Caesna 300's either but still......
remember, mid range it comes on hard and that is just where you will start
to get scared!!!  8^)

I have not done any serious pulling with it yet, just one light weight trip
to the junk yard - never knew the 2500 pound trailer was behind me at all.
I am anxious to see how it will pull loaded with a project truck or
something serious on the back of it.

The new mod motors are smooth as silk undies and I like 'em but they do not
compare to the FE's and 460's.
Unfortunately, it is the only way I can go right now since Ford no longer
builds big cube pushrod motors for us cube junkies and with all my babies
etc. I have to haul around, I felt the Excursion was a better deal for me
than the Expedition. Better towing capacity etc.  and the fact the delaer
sold it to me very much below cost helped a ton too.

Football season is almost over and i cannot wait to become more involved
with the list again.

Until then, NUKE GM!!

Stu
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 23:13:22 -0500
From: prices <prices mciworld.com>
Subject: side trim mouldings

Any tips on cleaning or restoring the side and bottom chrome (aluminum)
mouldings on a 73 XLT?  My truck is being painted, wanted to get the chrome
ready in the meantime.  Other than trying to find the expensive NOS, what
are my options?   Most of my piece have the slight milky whitish
discoloration.

bkp in NC

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Synteh vs. Dino Oil, LATE POST
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 00:26:41 -0400

Seems that when
> he changed his oil, he could only drain about 2-21/2 quarts of oil from
it.
> When I removed his oil pan, the sump was filled with a heavy gray colored
> sludge with a hole in it down to the oil plug.  Turns out he used STP with
> every oil change for years.  After talking with him, I think I discovered
> the problem.  He alway's changed his oil with the engine cold.
========================================================
YES always add it when the oil is hot and then run in prefferably for a few
hrs that way it wont do the above damage
but i think i said this before tho
gordon



------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 00:21:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Front Brake Hoses

In a message dated 10/2/00 8:36:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
danger csolutions.net writes:

<<    The best source for brake hardware that I'm aware of is
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pagebrake.com/

Michael >>

Thanks, I went to their Web page and left an inquirery.  I had never heard of
this company, their page, however, would lead one to believe they may find
the hoses.  Thanks again.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: '68 gas tank replacement
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 00:07:39 -0500


From what I have heard a tank from an 85 Isuzu Trooper will drop right into the frame rails. I am doing it to my truck as soon as I get my hands on a tank.

Feel free to email me off list, maybe we can work out problems/details together.

I plan on putting lots of pictures on my website about the conversion once its done.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Geo
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 7:39 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] '68 gas tank replacement



 Hello All,
     I know that this has been tossed around before but I have not seen a resolution.  I want to remove the gas tank in the cab of my 1968 f100 and relocate to between the frame rails if possible.  Any one done this and if so what tank did you use?  Along the same lines, is there a book or site for parts interchange for the Ford pickups?

 Thanks for the help!

 Geo

 1968 f100 390




------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Valvoline oil for high mileage engines
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 00:11:56 -0500


I believe its a synthetic blend, but I could be wrong!

---Garrett www.1966ford.com






 PS  Anybody have any Ideas about how effective \ whats in the new Valvoline
 oil made for high mileage engines?  What could be different about it?  Snake
 oil?




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 01:17:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tim Allen Smith <hydrosmith yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: hesitation

Sounds all too familiar to me. I had the problem you describe in my '69
f-250 w/390 2V after I swapped in a remanufactured replacement that was
done by Holley. None of the tuning was even close out of the box.
First, warm it up, make sure that your timing is right on and start
turning in the mixture screws until it wants to die and then back off a
half a turn. Remember to turn the screws slowly and keep them equal(1/4
turn at a time for each). I then moved the linkage for the accelerator
pump to the hole closest(inboard) to the carb. this is what worked for
me.
Hope it helps!
P.S. Another thought, it could also be a dirty fuel filter.

> From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
> Subject: hesitation
> Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 09:45:28 -0500
>
> Hey guys.
> I just bought a 79 ford f-250 for $800.  It's got a 351M in it but
> when i
> really stomp on it it will hesitate so bad that it will die.  I went
> and
> bought the haynes manual for the truck and it says in there that it
> could be
> the vacuum advance or timing.
> What do you guys think?



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "Geo" <cabal micron.net>
Subject: Re: '68 gas tank replacement
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 07:07:09 -0600

Thanks Garrett, will be giving the salvage yard a call today anyway about 2
front fenders and will ask if they have an Isuzu out there.  Took a walk
thru there yesterday, of course I forgot the tape measure, tanks laying
everywhere and it got the wheels spinning.

Geo
1968 F100 390

>
> From what I have heard a tank from an 85 Isuzu Trooper will drop right
into the frame rails. I am doing it to my truck as soon as I get my hands on
a tank.
>
> Feel free to email me off list, maybe we can work out problems/details
together.
>
> I plan on putting lots of pictures on my website about the conversion once
its done.
>
> ---Garrett www.1966ford.com
>
>   Hello All,
>       I know that this has been tossed around before but I have not seen a
resolution.  I want to remove the gas tank in the cab of my 1968 f100 and
relocate to between the frame rails if possible.  Any one done this and if
so what tank did you use?  Along the same lines, is there a book or site for
parts interchange for the Ford pickups?
>
>   Thanks for the help!
>
>   Geo
>
>   1968 f100 390
>
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>



------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:37:23 GMT
Subject: Re: side trim mouldings

>Any tips on cleaning or restoring the side and bottom chrome (aluminum)
>mouldings on a 73 XLT

Depends on how much work you want to put in vs. paying to have it done and detailing
... When it comes time for mine, I'm thinking I'm going to take most of my trim
to my friend who runs The Chrome Shop, they have some really nice buffing wheels
and can make quick work of that stuff (if they're not too busy).  This is how
they polish up all the stainless on the older show vehicles where you can't
find the original pieces anymore ...

For now I jut used some steel wool on them ... of course either way you'll probalby
have to re-paint the black stripes in the middle if you have them ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 07:46:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul Rozell <prozell yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: side trim mouldings


--- prices <prices mciworld.com> wrote:
> Any tips on cleaning or restoring the side and bottom chrome (aluminum)
> mouldings on a 73 XLT?  > To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>

I have a 65 F100 with the aluminum side molding. I removed my molding and used scotch brite to
remove any coatings or oxidation. I then used a buffing wheel with several different grits of
polishing compound to achieve the desired results. It is some work and takes a while but when you
get done the piece looks very good. A fine grit sandpaper can be used to remove some flaws.

Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: side trim mouldings
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 09:57:19 -0500

Scotch brite works for various things, the pad isn't steel so you can use it
on aluminum, *if you use steel wool on aluminum it makes it rust*.
you can probably scrube the whole molding with scotch brite it just takes a
lot of rubbing.

-Don Thurlow
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Rozell" <prozell yahoo.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 9:46 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: side trim mouldings


>
> --- prices <prices mciworld.com> wrote:
> > Any tips on cleaning or restoring the side and bottom chrome (aluminum)
> > mouldings on a 73 XLT?  > To  unsubscribe:
www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> >
>
> I have a 65 F100 with the aluminum side molding. I removed my molding and
used scotch brite to
> remove any coatings or oxidation. I then used a buffing wheel with several
different grits of
> polishing compound to achieve the desired results. It is some work and
takes a while but when you
> get done the piece looks very good. A fine grit sandpaper can be used to
remove some flaws.
>
> Paul Rozell
> 65 F100 460 C6
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Column rebuild
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 14:57:44 GMT

Thank you for your help guys.  I think I'm going to order some new bearings
and retainers and tear into it, one of these days...

>When you converted to power steering did you change out the firewall >mount
>at the base of the column to the power steering version? They are
> >different you know. The old (manual steering) mounting flange will put
> >too much pressure on the column when used with the power steering box.
> >The result will likely be that the bearings in the steering column >won't
>last long.

No, I didn't change that mount.  I thought that they were the same.  Do I
need to get a different one?  Sounds like I could've caused some of my
problems.

Thanks,

Marty
'73 F100 390
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 08:05:26 -0700
From: Clare Waterman-Storer <waterman scripps.edu>
Subject: a cleaner air cleaner

Dear Gurus,

To settle a discussion:

What is the proper way to clean a K&N type air filter?

TIA

Clare


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 10:22:26 -0500
Subject: Re: side trim mouldings
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

>>Any tips on cleaning or restoring the side and bottom chrome (aluminum)
>>mouldings on a 73 XLT
>
> Depends on how much work you want to put in vs. paying to have it done and
> detailing
> ... When it comes time for mine, I'm thinking I'm going to take most of my
trim
> to my friend who runs The Chrome Shop, they have some really nice buffing
wheels
> and can make quick work of that stuff (if they're not too busy).  This is how
> they polish up all the stainless on the older show vehicles where you can't
> find the original pieces anymore ...
>
> For now I jut used some steel wool on them ... of course either way you'll
probalby
> have to re-paint the black stripes in the middle if you have them ...


I use Turtle Wax Chrome Polish to clean my trim, then follow with a coat of
regular wax like I use on the rest of the truck. It comes in a bottle shaped
like brake fluid (no DOT approved on the label). This stuff worked well on
the tailgate insert I got from the wrecking yard. It will not harm the black
paint if used sparingly, but it will remove it if it is thin. AFAIK, there
are no abrasives in the formula, but it might be very fine. Some of my
aluminum trim has deteriorated from being in the sun so that it looks like
it is shiny galvanized. That isn't totally accurate, but if yours is like
that, you know what I mean. I don't have a cure for that malady.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 11:28:59 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski <theodore ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner

         There's a cleaning kit with a spray cleaner and oil for reoiling
the filter. It costs about $12.


At 08:05 AM 10/3/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Dear Gurus,
>
>To settle a discussion:
>
>What is the proper way to clean a K&N type air filter?
>
>TIA
>
>Clare
>
>
>


Ted Wnorowski  Flat Rock, OH
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wnorowski.com/
mailto:theodore ford-trucks.com
' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed
' 63 F-100 parts truck
' 66 F-250 352 4 speed flatbed










------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 10:35:18 -0500
Subject: Re: a cleaner air cleaner
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> To settle a discussion:

You're kidding, right? This list?

> What is the proper way to clean a K&N type air filter?

Assuming you mean an oil bath filter, my dad used to clean the element and
the housing with gasoline, then let it dry thoroughly while doing other
maintenance. Install fresh oil and put it all back on as the last step. He
cleaned his at every oil change. I'm old, but not that old. I never have
owned a vehicle of my own with this type filter. My passion lies in the
late, late 60s and the 70s cars and trucks.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 11:45:42 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski <theodore ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight Adjustment Nuts

        Thanks for all of your responses on this one. I answered my own
question that night. It was a REAL pain getting the bolt started. Once it
was in it was hard to turn, but they should be somewhat to hold your
adjustment. Anyway, once you reach a certain point they get nice and tight !
        The cleaning kit for the K&N filter is called a Recharger Filter
Care Service Kit.


At 11:16 AM 9/3/00 -0400, you wrote:
>         I was upgrading to Hella Halogen last night and was replacing the
> adjusting nut and screw. The new nuts I have just kinda slop into the
> hole loosely.  Will it expand enough when I put the new bolt in to hold ....


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