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Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:19:31 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Sat, 30 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 270

In This Issue:
Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco
Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco
Re: Lift
Re: A GROUP OF RECENT SUBJECTS
Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco
sloppy steering
Re: Late 70's Ford Pickup wanted
Re: sloppy steering
Re: sloppy steering
351W project
Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco
Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco
solid roller cam for a 390?
I Forgot something
Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleetside.
Re: Nationals
Re: Late 70's Ford Pickup wanted
Re: sloppy steering
Re: Lift
Transfer case woes, and a tranny question
dash pad on 66 F100
Re: buy it?
Re: solid roller cam for a 390?
Re: sloppy steering

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 22:55:17 -0400
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco

Bob

Gear oil really can't get in the drum from where the axle meets the hub
(the 8 bolts), that is on the outside of wheel and if leaking it would
run all over the wheel. I'm sure it's leaking from hub seal on inner
part of hub. After you remove drum/hub, you will see seal, it covers
inner bearing. You need to pop this out and put a new one in.

 As for getting bearings out, when you remove hub seal, inner beairng
comes out, then you look inside hub and see a snap ring. Remove this and
outer bearing comes out from inner side of hub. Kinda wierd when you
first look at it. It looks like outer bearing has no way to come out :-)

                                    OX

PS, when you remove drum, take note of surface where inner hub seal
rides. It may be worn rusted which means even a new seal will leak son
after you put it in.

------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 22:13:48 -0500

wait wait wait, we have one here. My dad has a '77 so he has a couple, lol

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of
JUMPINFORD aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 9:57 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco


Id go get a book for say a 73-87 Chevy that will cover that rearend.  The
info you need should be there.  As for the rest of the book, burn it into a
sacrificial fire, and say a prayer to the mighty blue oval.  That should
help
appease the gods for the 14 bolt under your Bronco.

On a side note, petersons just did a list of axles by strength, they went
Dana 80, Dana 70, Ford 10.25, HD 14 bolt, Dana 60, LD 14 bolt, ford 9'',
dana
44, 12 bolt, and 10 bolt.

Darrell & Tweety
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 23:25:02 -0400
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Lift

At 10:01 PM 9/30/00 -0400, you wrote:
>I did a lot of research before I bought mine.  Just curious about what brand
>you have and what style?  Sounds like and above ground, two post type?  What
>safety supports?

I don't even know the brand.

We conducted very little research, because we took ours in as a trade from
yet a third business partner (before we merged) when he owned us some
money.  Safety supports, well I was thinking the wrong thing, we actually
need the arms that hold the car/truck up.  Them + the control box runs
about $700.  Yes, it is a two post above the ground type, water table here
is too high (last year it was 3 feet over the ground in a flood) to really
consider sinking stuff in the ground here.  All the 'real' shops around
here have above the ground lifts.

My partner's garage has 20' ceilings, and a roll-up door, so fitting in
vehicles won't be a problem. Lift won't even take up 1/6 of the floor
space. (We built it to work on vehicles inside.)

George Selby
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 23:47:49 -0400
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: A GROUP OF RECENT SUBJECTS


-- Unable to decode HTML file!! --


------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 22:57:34 -0500

Looks like OX took care of it =) If ya need any info oput of one of the
books, let me know.

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of James Oxley
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 9:55 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco


Bob

Gear oil really can't get in the drum from where the axle meets the hub
(the 8 bolts), that is on the outside of wheel and if leaking it would
run all over the wheel. I'm sure it's leaking from hub seal on inner
part of hub. After you remove drum/hub, you will see seal, it covers
inner bearing. You need to pop this out and put a new one in.

 As for getting bearings out, when you remove hub seal, inner beairng
comes out, then you look inside hub and see a snap ring. Remove this and
outer bearing comes out from inner side of hub. Kinda wierd when you
first look at it. It looks like outer bearing has no way to come out :-)

                                    OX

PS, when you remove drum, take note of surface where inner hub seal
rides. It may be worn rusted which means even a new seal will leak son
after you put it in.
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 00:01:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: younkers auracom.com (R)
Subject: sloppy steering

The following description is of the steering coupling near the box
on 4wd  trucks in the 1978 range. (thanks to Bob and Woody for this)

"the older style coupling that has abouta quarter inch thick canvas-like
material between the two attaching points--it is even possible yours has
this kind of joint as originalequipment, but my inpression is Ford wasn't
using them any more in
the '79 model year; maybe you've heard the term "rag joint"--that describes
this "coupler" perfectly."

I believe my 1978 has this type of steering connection. The joint described
above is horribly loose. I'm wondering what it takes to fix this problem.
Can the intermediate material simply be replaced, or is this one of
those $$$$ problems that crop up every now and then. It's something that
is definitely requiring attention but the price for an entire shaft unit
in LMC scared me silly. It seems to me that this must be a fairly common
problem
on these trucks so hopefully the vast stores of FTE knowledge can step
up and help me our here.

Thanks in advance,

Robert Younker

Milton, NS


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 00:00:24 -0400
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Late 70's Ford Pickup wanted

At 10:01 PM 9/30/00 -0400, you wrote:
>If you find one beat and it need the parts you have, I'd go for it, but
>late 70's ford trucks are getting pricey for even junk

Not in my area (especially since gas prices went back up,) I saw one
advertised for $1400 this week (www.cbtmagazine.net, in the bargain hunter
section) with 351M, C-6, 4x4, on 44's.  Another beater (ad said body was
thrashed, motor was good) for $500.  These are the advertised prices, too,
not what you could strike a bargain for.  I got mine for $1500, and it had
many performance parts on the engine, a 3" Rancho lift, a Warn winch bumper
(handy because I already had a Warn winch) and 35" tires with good tread.

I do agree that a good second choice would be an early 80's Ford 4x4 as the
previous poster was correct, these are too old, yet not old enough for the
price to be high.

George Selby
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: sloppy steering
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 23:13:18 -0500

It looks like a piece of that tire stuff like on bummpers on loading docks
for trucks to keep from denting trailers, etc. Wonder if you could cut a
round piece of that out for it?

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of R
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 11:02 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] sloppy steering


The following description is of the steering coupling near the box
on 4wd  trucks in the 1978 range. (thanks to Bob and Woody for this)

"the older style coupling that has abouta quarter inch thick canvas-like
material between the two attaching points--it is even possible yours has
this kind of joint as originalequipment, but my inpression is Ford wasn't
using them any more in
the '79 model year; maybe you've heard the term "rag joint"--that describes
this "coupler" perfectly."

I believe my 1978 has this type of steering connection. The joint described
above is horribly loose. I'm wondering what it takes to fix this problem.
Can the intermediate material simply be replaced, or is this one of
those $$$$ problems that crop up every now and then. It's something that
is definitely requiring attention but the price for an entire shaft unit
in LMC scared me silly. It seems to me that this must be a fairly common
problem
on these trucks so hopefully the vast stores of FTE knowledge can step
up and help me our here.

Thanks in advance,

Robert Younker

Milton, NS

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: sloppy steering
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 23:15:31 -0500


You can get a universal rag joint kit at most parts stores for less than $20. I replaced mine with one of those universal kits and it worked fine.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: R
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 11:01 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] sloppy steering


 The following description is of the steering coupling near the box
  on 4wd  trucks in the 1978 range. (thanks to Bob and Woody for this)

  "the older style coupling that has abouta quarter inch thick canvas-like
 material between the two attaching points--it is even possible yours has
 this kind of joint as originalequipment, but my inpression is Ford wasn't
 using them any more in
  the '79 model year; maybe you've heard the term "rag joint"--that describes
  this "coupler" perfectly."

  I believe my 1978 has this type of steering connection. The joint described
  above is horribly loose. I'm wondering what it takes to fix this problem.
  Can the intermediate material simply be replaced, or is this one of
  those $$$$ problems that crop up every now and then. It's something that
  is definitely requiring attention but the price for an entire shaft unit
  in LMC scared me silly. It seems to me that this must be a fairly common
 problem
  on these trucks so hopefully the vast stores of FTE knowledge can step
  up and help me our here.

  Thanks in advance,

  Robert Younker

  Milton, NS



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 21:45:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tim Allen Smith <hydrosmith yahoo.com>
Subject: 351W project

What I want to do to a 351W I have:

- stroke block w/ a stroker kit into the 400 c.i. range without having
to notch the bottom of the cyl. bores for rod clearance. bore block at
least .030 or whatever is needed to achieve target cubic inches(I won't
go past .050 though)

- full balancing

- porting of heads & intake or replace heads w/ aftermarket cast iron
heads. I think that flow should be 250cfm per runner average

-  Use of roller tipped rocker arms(keeping w/ stamped steel type)

- use of latest gasket technology (but not O-ring head gaskets)

- keep engine vaccumn as high as possible

- Edelbrock or Demon carb - 650 to 750cfm whichever would suit engine
needs the best

- roller lifter conversion is not out of the question if cost is not
too high

- A cam grind that would take advantage of this package, and do what I
want it to do(see below)


What I have now:

- one 1969 F-250, p/s, p/b, front disc-dual piston calipers, Dana 60
rear axle(unk gear ratio at this time), custom cab and dual gas tanks
currently has 390 c.i. w/2bbl. and C-6, gets about 11mpg

- one 351W, stock bore & stroke-#1 cyl. is below 100 psi on a
compression test test(others average 110 psi), is 1971 vintage from
1971 Galaxie. Heads are stock Ford and have been modified w/bronze
valve guides & hardened seats, stock valve size, stock 9.0:1
compression ratio, non-rail type rockers, cam & it's grind are unk.
when this engine was in a 1977 F-100 stepside it would do 0-60 in 8.5
seconds w/ a 2.75 gear ratio 9" rear end and get 14mpg and P275/60/R15
tires rear & P245/60/R15 front. I took it to the high school drags once
and I remember it getting somewhere in the high 15's for an e.t.(15
yrs. ago)

- one Edelbrock Performer intake

- Holley 600cfm 4 bbl (list #1850) w/Ford kickdown and elec. choke kits

- had Duraspark ing. & distributor lifted from 1977 302 F-100

What engine must be able to do:

- torque output to the ground must be in excess of 400 ft lbs,
horsepower is unimportant to me, just the torque

- budget is $4,000

- cruise all day at 70mph, all day at 60mph towing a 25ft. trailer

- be able to get 15mpg (or better I'm hoping) unloaded on freeway

- occasionally haul/pull 2 tons

- run on 87 octane gas w/compression no higher than 9.0:1

- be low maintenance

- no use of exotic parts that are hard to find or fabricate

- keep my Edelbrock Performer intake and run w/a low cost ignition

- will do all this while running 100 amp alt.,power steering,power
brakes, and possibly a/c-haven't decided yet

OTHER:

- Truck will have overdrive, either a performance AOD or an overdrive
that bolts up to the rear of a C-6(not part of engine budget)

- performance exhaust using shorty headers, a crossover, 3" pipes and
free flowing mufflers that are not too loud but still have a "muscular
tune"(not part of engine budget)

- will be using stock Dana 60 axle(gear ratio is unk at this time)

- tire size will be LT235/85/R16

So that's what I will be doing over the next year, so what does
everyone think? Will my plan for output work? Will it be a reliable
worker? Any comments, suggestions & questions will be a great help.
Thanks to all & this great list Ken has built.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 00:43:18 -0400
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco



JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:
>
side note, petersons just did a list of axles by strength, they went
> Dana 80, Dana 70, Ford 10.25, HD 14 bolt,

Out of curiosity, what did they say were the main differences (good or
bad) between the 70, 10.25 and 14 bolt?

                                   OX

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 02:04:30 EDT
Subject: Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco

In a message dated 9/30/2000 9:47:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
luxjo thecore.com writes:


> Out of curiosity, what did they say were the main differences (good or
> bad) between the 70, 10.25 and 14 bolt?
>

I dont have it in font of me, my neighbor borrowed the mag, but it was
something along the lines of axleshaft diameter, spline count, and in regards
to the 14 bolt, the funky setup on the pinion bearings.  They didnt elaborate
much, as this wasnt an article, but rather an answer to a question in the
Nuts and Bolts section.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: solid roller cam for a 390?
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 01:17:58 -0500


Is there such a thing? If so where can I find it?

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

From: "Jeffery Hansen" <billybobjoehansen hotmail.com>
Subject: I Forgot something
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 12:40:18 GMT

I forgot something - the brand of oil he always used - in all his Chevy's,
tractors, combine, lawn mower, etc.  Kendall 10W-40.  Cheapest there was at
the time, probably still is, but I can't say as to EVER seeing a TV
commercial for it.  Don't know if it's still even around. (The Falcon was
given to my mom by my grandfather - dad has always been a Chevy man - don't
ask how I came to be so much smarter and came to the Blue Side, guess it's
that teenager rebel stuff.  Have only owned one Chevy in my life, a 84
Camero couple years back - traded my second crashed 86 T-bird for it - owned
it a whole 210 miles - just long enough to drive it from Jacksonville, NC to
Norfolk, VA and put a big For Sale sign in the windshield)
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.

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------------------------------

From: "Dutch." <dutchman esatclear.ie>
Subject: Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleetside.
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 14:52:40 +0100

Hello list,

I intend replacing the stock rims and tyres on my 2WD '66 F100 longbed
fleetside with custom wheels. What is the biggest rim width and tyre size
both back and front that I can go with out fouling the wheelarches? Advice
would be appreciated.

Dutch.



------------------------------

From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: Nationals
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 09:04:30 -0500

son and I did and it was biggest one  ever   were there sat    ninth year
to.  broke foot last Sunday at truck pull   but still went    soaking  foot
today.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Emerick" <djemerick hotmail.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 10:13 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Nationals


> I'm curious...anybody going to the 4-Wheel Jamboree Nationals in
> Indianapolis this weekend?
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.
>
> Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com.
>
> =============================================================
.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 08:54:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Late 70's Ford Pickup wanted

Ok I guess I left out one major point when I posted my original question.
I forgot to tell you all where I live.  Dohhhh!

I'm just north of Philadelphia, PA in a suburb called Roslyn.  So I think
that Ohio might be a bit far.  I'm guessing anywhere within a 2-3 hour
drive is all I could swing.

Thanks for the advice so far.  It appears you live in the Carolina's there
George so that would be a bit far for me.  Its a shame though since those
two trucks are exactly what I'm looking for.

Thanks,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" ("Project Still in Progress")

--- George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net> wrote:
> At 10:01 PM 9/30/00 -0400, you wrote:
> >If you find one beat and it need the parts you have, I'd go for it, but
> >late 70's ford trucks are getting pricey for even junk
>
> Not in my area (especially since gas prices went back up,) I saw one
> advertised for $1400 this week (www.cbtmagazine.net, in the bargain
> hunter
> section) with 351M, C-6, 4x4, on 44's.  Another beater (ad said body was
>
> thrashed, motor was good) for $500.  These are the advertised prices,
> too,
> not what you could strike a bargain for.  I got mine for $1500, and it
> had
> many performance parts on the engine, a 3" Rancho lift, a Warn winch
> bumper
> (handy because I already had a Warn winch) and 35" tires with good
> tread.
>
> I do agree that a good second choice would be an early 80's Ford 4x4 as
> the
> previous poster was correct, these are too old, yet not old enough for
> the
> price to be high.
>
> George Selby


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: sloppy steering
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 15:01:58 -0700

Yes but the universal ones only have one large lug which is what the 2wd's
use but 4x4's need the dual heavy lug type.  You can buy two universal kits
and use the heavy lugs of each or look for one made for 4x4's.  I didn't
like the looks of the universal on my bronco, looks weak......

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> You can get a universal rag joint kit at most parts stores for less than
$20. I replaced mine with one of those universal kits and it worked fine.



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Lift
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 15:56:33 -0700

Wow!  Sounds like a cool building :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> My partner's garage has 20' ceilings, and a roll-up door, so fitting in
> vehicles won't be a problem. Lift won't even take up 1/6 of the floor
> space. (We built it to work on vehicles inside.)
>
> George Selby



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 20:28:04 EDT
Subject: Transfer case woes, and a tranny question

Hello folks,

Well, I hope yall are havin a better day than me.  About a month ago I went
through the NP205 T-case in dads 75 4x4.  Well, we went out to test it today,
as we just got a new front driveshaft made for it.  It works great with the
exception that it wont come out of 4 low.  It was almost go completely into
neutral but not quite.  Near as I can tell one of the floating rods that
works to only let one shift fork move at a time is jammed.  I wont know till
I get it apart though.  Any ideas?  Maybe I overlooked something?  Any info
you have would be greatly appreciated.

Also the tranny is making some horrible noise, it sounds to me like the rear
output bearing.  Anyone have a blown up parts picture for a NP435?  Id
attempt it, but it would be nice to have pics.  If you do have some, write me
off list and I can provide a fax#.

Thanks everyone,

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: dash pad on 66 F100
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 21:25:37 -0500


Is this easy to remove? I'm ready to start sanding the inside of my truck to get ready for a shot of primer. If it comes off easily I will pull it off. If not, I guess it will stay on and get well masked.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: buy it?
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 06:15:26 -0700


>
>
> I am considering the purchase of a '79 F-250 supercab (2 wd, 460, AT)
> for $1500.  I think it is a steal, since the beast is in pretty good
> shape and seems to run and drive well (except for some hesitation when
> you really stomp on it).  However, being unfamiliar with
> older Fords, I
> thought I would impose on you 'experts' for your opinions and
> advice on
> what kind of things to look for and be aware of.  I have heard that
> 460's are not worth much due the rising popularity of the powerstroke
> and gas prices.  True?  Is the 460 a solid, reliable engine?  Any
> comments on the hesitation during hard acceleration would be useful
> too.  Thanks in advance for your help and patience with my (ford)
> ignorance.  (Sorry, but I currently drive a '66 chev 1/2T- my interest
> in the supercab is spurred by a need for space for my wife
> and two kids)
>

In short, if you don't buy it I WILL!!  I have a 76 F-150 supercab.  No
complaints.  $1500 seems like a good price.  The 460 has deservedly been
called bullet proof, reliable, solid, dependable.  Well maintained they give
miles of trouble free service.  Since it is an F-250 (3/4 ton) it has a
heavier duty rear end, suitable for towing.  Also the gearing will probably
be lower for towing.  Expect to get around 8 mpg.  Also expect that the mpg
won't change regardless of what you put in it/tow with it.  If you were to
re-gear it you may get as high as 11 or 12 mpg.  Remember this was designed
as primarily a work truck.  It is built as such.  Honestly if you get the
same type of SUV/truck today it won't get any better mpg at all so that's
not really a factor.

Things to look for standard drive line checks, at fluid, water in oil etc.
Check for rust/bondo over rear wheel wells and rear corners of cabs.  Check
the metal that the hood hinges bolt to for rust/ soundness.  It probably has
dual tanks.  Switch is located on dash next to climate controls.  Verify it
operates.  Looseness in steering could be frozen kingpins, worn out rag
joint or worn steering components.  All of these can be fixed easily (well
maybe not the kingpins).  If the dash guage reads low oil pressure check the
rest of the guages.  If they all read low then the oil pressure is probably
fine and the guages are off ($13 fix).

Let us know.

Tom H.

PS where is it? ;0)

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: solid roller cam for a 390?
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 06:15:28 -0700


>
>
>
> Is there such a thing? If so where can I find it?
>
> ---Garrett www.1966ford.com
>

My PAW catalog has them from Competition cams and Crower.  Comp Cams is on
page 300, Crower on page 302.  Check with mfgr on use.  I've heard some
aftermarket rollers are not meant for daily street use.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: sloppy steering
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 06:15:27 -0700


>
>  The following description is of the steering coupling near the box
>  on 4wd  trucks in the 1978 range. (thanks to Bob and Woody for this)
>
<snip description of rag joint>
>
>  I believe my 1978 has this type of steering connection. The
> joint described
>  above is horribly loose. I'm wondering what it takes to fix
> this problem.

Not much, just a new rag joint.

>  Can the intermediate material simply be replaced, or is this one of
>  those $$$$ problems that crop up every now and then.

You could try to cobble something together (thick piece of rubber or
something) but I wouldn't.  I got mine from Ford.  I think it was around
$50.  I thought it was cheap at that price considering what it did.

> It's  something that
>  is definitely requiring attention but the price for an
> entire shaft unit
>  in LMC scared me silly. It seems to me that this must be a
> fairly common
> problem
>  on these trucks so hopefully the vast stores of FTE
> knowledge can step
>  up and help me our here.
>
>  Thanks in advance,
>
>  Robert Younker
>
>  Milton, NS
>

If it is a rag joint you have you don't need to replace a shaft.  I thought
4x4s had u-joints in the steering column.  What I had was no intermediat
material and the only thing providing steering was the safety pins that ....


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