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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:19:31 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:19:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #270 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Sat, 30 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 270 In This Issue: Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco Re: Lift Re: A GROUP OF RECENT SUBJECTS Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco sloppy steering Re: Late 70's Ford Pickup wanted Re: sloppy steering Re: sloppy steering 351W project Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco solid roller cam for a 390? I Forgot something Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleetside. Re: Nationals Re: Late 70's Ford Pickup wanted Re: sloppy steering Re: Lift Transfer case woes, and a tranny question dash pad on 66 F100 Re: buy it? Re: solid roller cam for a 390? Re: sloppy steering ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 22:55:17 -0400 From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco Bob Gear oil really can't get in the drum from where the axle meets the hub (the 8 bolts), that is on the outside of wheel and if leaking it would run all over the wheel. I'm sure it's leaking from hub seal on inner part of hub. After you remove drum/hub, you will see seal, it covers inner bearing. You need to pop this out and put a new one in. As for getting bearings out, when you remove hub seal, inner beairng comes out, then you look inside hub and see a snap ring. Remove this and outer bearing comes out from inner side of hub. Kinda wierd when you first look at it. It looks like outer bearing has no way to come out :-) OX PS, when you remove drum, take note of surface where inner hub seal rides. It may be worn rusted which means even a new seal will leak son after you put it in. ------------------------------ From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 22:13:48 -0500 wait wait wait, we have one here. My dad has a '77 so he has a couple, lol -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of
JUMPINFORD aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 9:57 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco Id go get a book for say a 73-87 Chevy that will cover that rearend. The info you need should be there. As for the rest of the book, burn it into a sacrificial fire, and say a prayer to the mighty blue oval. That should help appease the gods for the 14 bolt under your Bronco. On a side note, petersons just did a list of axles by strength, they went Dana 80, Dana 70, Ford 10.25, HD 14 bolt, Dana 60, LD 14 bolt, ford 9'', dana 44, 12 bolt, and 10 bolt. Darrell & Tweety ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 23:25:02 -0400 From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Lift At 10:01 PM 9/30/00 -0400, you wrote: >I did a lot of research before I bought mine. Just curious about what brand >you have and what style? Sounds like and above ground, two post type? What >safety supports? I don't even know the brand. We conducted very little research, because we took ours in as a trade from yet a third business partner (before we merged) when he owned us some money. Safety supports, well I was thinking the wrong thing, we actually need the arms that hold the car/truck up. Them + the control box runs about $700. Yes, it is a two post above the ground type, water table here is too high (last year it was 3 feet over the ground in a flood) to really consider sinking stuff in the ground here. All the 'real' shops around here have above the ground lifts. My partner's garage has 20' ceilings, and a roll-up door, so fitting in vehicles won't be a problem. Lift won't even take up 1/6 of the floor space. (We built it to work on vehicles inside.) George Selby 78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd 86 Nissan 300ZX gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 23:47:49 -0400 From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: A GROUP OF RECENT SUBJECTS -- Unable to decode HTML file!! -- ------------------------------ From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 22:57:34 -0500 Looks like OX took care of it =) If ya need any info oput of one of the books, let me know. -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of James Oxley
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 9:55 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco Bob Gear oil really can't get in the drum from where the axle meets the hub (the 8 bolts), that is on the outside of wheel and if leaking it would run all over the wheel. I'm sure it's leaking from hub seal on inner part of hub. After you remove drum/hub, you will see seal, it covers inner bearing. You need to pop this out and put a new one in. As for getting bearings out, when you remove hub seal, inner beairng comes out, then you look inside hub and see a snap ring. Remove this and outer bearing comes out from inner side of hub. Kinda wierd when you first look at it. It looks like outer bearing has no way to come out :-) OX PS, when you remove drum, take note of surface where inner hub seal rides. It may be worn rusted which means even a new seal will leak son after you put it in. ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 00:01:35 -0400 (EDT) From: younkers auracom.com (R)
Subject: sloppy steering The following description is of the steering coupling near the box on 4wd trucks in the 1978 range. (thanks to Bob and Woody for this) "the older style coupling that has abouta quarter inch thick canvas-like material between the two attaching points--it is even possible yours has this kind of joint as originalequipment, but my inpression is Ford wasn't using them any more in the '79 model year; maybe you've heard the term "rag joint"--that describes this "coupler" perfectly." I believe my 1978 has this type of steering connection. The joint described above is horribly loose. I'm wondering what it takes to fix this problem. Can the intermediate material simply be replaced, or is this one of those $$$$ problems that crop up every now and then. It's something that is definitely requiring attention but the price for an entire shaft unit in LMC scared me silly. It seems to me that this must be a fairly common problem on these trucks so hopefully the vast stores of FTE knowledge can step up and help me our here. Thanks in advance, Robert Younker Milton, NS ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 00:00:24 -0400 From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Late 70's Ford Pickup wanted At 10:01 PM 9/30/00 -0400, you wrote: >If you find one beat and it need the parts you have, I'd go for it, but >late 70's ford trucks are getting pricey for even junk Not in my area (especially since gas prices went back up,) I saw one advertised for $1400 this week (www.cbtmagazine.net, in the bargain hunter section) with 351M, C-6, 4x4, on 44's. Another beater (ad said body was thrashed, motor was good) for $500. These are the advertised prices, too, not what you could strike a bargain for. I got mine for $1500, and it had many performance parts on the engine, a 3" Rancho lift, a Warn winch bumper (handy because I already had a Warn winch) and 35" tires with good tread. I do agree that a good second choice would be an early 80's Ford 4x4 as the previous poster was correct, these are too old, yet not old enough for the price to be high. George Selby 78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd 86 Nissan 300ZX gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com ------------------------------ From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: sloppy steering Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 23:13:18 -0500 It looks like a piece of that tire stuff like on bummpers on loading docks for trucks to keep from denting trailers, etc. Wonder if you could cut a round piece of that out for it? -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of R
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 11:02 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] sloppy steering The following description is of the steering coupling near the box on 4wd trucks in the 1978 range. (thanks to Bob and Woody for this) "the older style coupling that has abouta quarter inch thick canvas-like material between the two attaching points--it is even possible yours has this kind of joint as originalequipment, but my inpression is Ford wasn't using them any more in the '79 model year; maybe you've heard the term "rag joint"--that describes this "coupler" perfectly." I believe my 1978 has this type of steering connection. The joint described above is horribly loose. I'm wondering what it takes to fix this problem. Can the intermediate material simply be replaced, or is this one of those $$$$ problems that crop up every now and then. It's something that is definitely requiring attention but the price for an entire shaft unit in LMC scared me silly. It seems to me that this must be a fairly common problem on these trucks so hopefully the vast stores of FTE knowledge can step up and help me our here. Thanks in advance, Robert Younker Milton, NS ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: sloppy steering Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 23:15:31 -0500 You can get a universal rag joint kit at most parts stores for less than $20. I replaced mine with one of those universal kits and it worked fine. ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: R To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 11:01 PM Subject: [61-79-list] sloppy steering The following description is of the steering coupling near the box on 4wd trucks in the 1978 range. (thanks to Bob and Woody for this) "the older style coupling that has abouta quarter inch thick canvas-like material between the two attaching points--it is even possible yours has this kind of joint as originalequipment, but my inpression is Ford wasn't using them any more in the '79 model year; maybe you've heard the term "rag joint"--that describes this "coupler" perfectly." I believe my 1978 has this type of steering connection. The joint described above is horribly loose. I'm wondering what it takes to fix this problem. Can the intermediate material simply be replaced, or is this one of those $$$$ problems that crop up every now and then. It's something that is definitely requiring attention but the price for an entire shaft unit in LMC scared me silly. It seems to me that this must be a fairly common problem on these trucks so hopefully the vast stores of FTE knowledge can step up and help me our here. Thanks in advance, Robert Younker Milton, NS ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 21:45:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Tim Allen Smith <hydrosmith yahoo.com>
Subject: 351W project What I want to do to a 351W I have: - stroke block w/ a stroker kit into the 400 c.i. range without having to notch the bottom of the cyl. bores for rod clearance. bore block at least .030 or whatever is needed to achieve target cubic inches(I won't go past .050 though) - full balancing - porting of heads & intake or replace heads w/ aftermarket cast iron heads. I think that flow should be 250cfm per runner average - Use of roller tipped rocker arms(keeping w/ stamped steel type) - use of latest gasket technology (but not O-ring head gaskets) - keep engine vaccumn as high as possible - Edelbrock or Demon carb - 650 to 750cfm whichever would suit engine needs the best - roller lifter conversion is not out of the question if cost is not too high - A cam grind that would take advantage of this package, and do what I want it to do(see below) What I have now: - one 1969 F-250, p/s, p/b, front disc-dual piston calipers, Dana 60 rear axle(unk gear ratio at this time), custom cab and dual gas tanks currently has 390 c.i. w/2bbl. and C-6, gets about 11mpg - one 351W, stock bore & stroke-#1 cyl. is below 100 psi on a compression test test(others average 110 psi), is 1971 vintage from 1971 Galaxie. Heads are stock Ford and have been modified w/bronze valve guides & hardened seats, stock valve size, stock 9.0:1 compression ratio, non-rail type rockers, cam & it's grind are unk. when this engine was in a 1977 F-100 stepside it would do 0-60 in 8.5 seconds w/ a 2.75 gear ratio 9" rear end and get 14mpg and P275/60/R15 tires rear & P245/60/R15 front. I took it to the high school drags once and I remember it getting somewhere in the high 15's for an e.t.(15 yrs. ago) - one Edelbrock Performer intake - Holley 600cfm 4 bbl (list #1850) w/Ford kickdown and elec. choke kits - had Duraspark ing. & distributor lifted from 1977 302 F-100 What engine must be able to do: - torque output to the ground must be in excess of 400 ft lbs, horsepower is unimportant to me, just the torque - budget is $4,000 - cruise all day at 70mph, all day at 60mph towing a 25ft. trailer - be able to get 15mpg (or better I'm hoping) unloaded on freeway - occasionally haul/pull 2 tons - run on 87 octane gas w/compression no higher than 9.0:1 - be low maintenance - no use of exotic parts that are hard to find or fabricate - keep my Edelbrock Performer intake and run w/a low cost ignition - will do all this while running 100 amp alt.,power steering,power brakes, and possibly a/c-haven't decided yet OTHER: - Truck will have overdrive, either a performance AOD or an overdrive that bolts up to the rear of a C-6(not part of engine budget) - performance exhaust using shorty headers, a crossover, 3" pipes and free flowing mufflers that are not too loud but still have a "muscular tune"(not part of engine budget) - will be using stock Dana 60 axle(gear ratio is unk at this time) - tire size will be LT235/85/R16 So that's what I will be doing over the next year, so what does everyone think? Will my plan for output work? Will it be a reliable worker? Any comments, suggestions & questions will be a great help. Thanks to all & this great list Ken has built. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 00:43:18 -0400 From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:
> side note, petersons just did a list of axles by strength, they went > Dana 80, Dana 70, Ford 10.25, HD 14 bolt, Out of curiosity, what did they say were the main differences (good or bad) between the 70, 10.25 and 14 bolt? OX ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 02:04:30 EDT Subject: Re: GM 14 bolt rear LEAKS under 79 Bronco In a message dated 9/30/2000 9:47:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time, luxjo thecore.com writes:
> Out of curiosity, what did they say were the main differences (good or > bad) between the 70, 10.25 and 14 bolt? > I dont have it in font of me, my neighbor borrowed the mag, but it was something along the lines of axleshaft diameter, spline count, and in regards to the 14 bolt, the funky setup on the pinion bearings. They didnt elaborate much, as this wasnt an article, but rather an answer to a question in the Nuts and Bolts section. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: solid roller cam for a 390? Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 01:17:58 -0500 Is there such a thing? If so where can I find it? ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ------------------------------ From: "Jeffery Hansen" <billybobjoehansen hotmail.com>
Subject: I Forgot something Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 12:40:18 GMT I forgot something - the brand of oil he always used - in all his Chevy's, tractors, combine, lawn mower, etc. Kendall 10W-40. Cheapest there was at the time, probably still is, but I can't say as to EVER seeing a TV commercial for it. Don't know if it's still even around. (The Falcon was given to my mom by my grandfather - dad has always been a Chevy man - don't ask how I came to be so much smarter and came to the Blue Side, guess it's that teenager rebel stuff. Have only owned one Chevy in my life, a 84 Camero couple years back - traded my second crashed 86 T-bird for it - owned it a whole 210 miles - just long enough to drive it from Jacksonville, NC to Norfolk, VA and put a big For Sale sign in the windshield) _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ From: "Dutch." <dutchman esatclear.ie>
Subject: Custom rim sizes for '66 Ford F100 Longbed Fleetside. Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 14:52:40 +0100 Hello list, I intend replacing the stock rims and tyres on my 2WD '66 F100 longbed fleetside with custom wheels. What is the biggest rim width and tyre size both back and front that I can go with out fouling the wheelarches? Advice would be appreciated. Dutch. ------------------------------ From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: Nationals Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 09:04:30 -0500 son and I did and it was biggest one ever were there sat ninth year to. broke foot last Sunday at truck pull but still went soaking foot today. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Emerick" <djemerick hotmail.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 10:13 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Nationals > I'm curious...anybody going to the 4-Wheel Jamboree Nationals in > Indianapolis this weekend? > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com. > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com. > > ============================================================= . ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 08:54:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Late 70's Ford Pickup wanted Ok I guess I left out one major point when I posted my original question. I forgot to tell you all where I live. Dohhhh! I'm just north of Philadelphia, PA in a suburb called Roslyn. So I think that Ohio might be a bit far. I'm guessing anywhere within a 2-3 hour drive is all I could swing. Thanks for the advice so far. It appears you live in the Carolina's there George so that would be a bit far for me. Its a shame though since those two trucks are exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks, Eric Finn '78 Bronco "The Beast" ("Project Still in Progress") --- George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net> wrote:
> At 10:01 PM 9/30/00 -0400, you wrote: > >If you find one beat and it need the parts you have, I'd go for it, but > >late 70's ford trucks are getting pricey for even junk > > Not in my area (especially since gas prices went back up,) I saw one > advertised for $1400 this week (www.cbtmagazine.net, in the bargain > hunter > section) with 351M, C-6, 4x4, on 44's. Another beater (ad said body was > > thrashed, motor was good) for $500. These are the advertised prices, > too, > not what you could strike a bargain for. I got mine for $1500, and it > had > many performance parts on the engine, a 3" Rancho lift, a Warn winch > bumper > (handy because I already had a Warn winch) and 35" tires with good > tread. > > I do agree that a good second choice would be an early 80's Ford 4x4 as > the > previous poster was correct, these are too old, yet not old enough for > the > price to be high. > > George Selby __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: sloppy steering Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 15:01:58 -0700 Yes but the universal ones only have one large lug which is what the 2wd's use but 4x4's need the dual heavy lug type. You can buy two universal kits and use the heavy lugs of each or look for one made for 4x4's. I didn't like the looks of the universal on my bronco, looks weak...... Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > You can get a universal rag joint kit at most parts stores for less than $20. I replaced mine with one of those universal kits and it worked fine. ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Lift Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 15:56:33 -0700 Wow! Sounds like a cool building :-) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > My partner's garage has 20' ceilings, and a roll-up door, so fitting in > vehicles won't be a problem. Lift won't even take up 1/6 of the floor > space. (We built it to work on vehicles inside.) > > George Selby ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 20:28:04 EDT Subject: Transfer case woes, and a tranny question Hello folks, Well, I hope yall are havin a better day than me. About a month ago I went through the NP205 T-case in dads 75 4x4. Well, we went out to test it today, as we just got a new front driveshaft made for it. It works great with the exception that it wont come out of 4 low. It was almost go completely into neutral but not quite. Near as I can tell one of the floating rods that works to only let one shift fork move at a time is jammed. I wont know till I get it apart though. Any ideas? Maybe I overlooked something? Any info you have would be greatly appreciated. Also the tranny is making some horrible noise, it sounds to me like the rear output bearing. Anyone have a blown up parts picture for a NP435? Id attempt it, but it would be nice to have pics. If you do have some, write me off list and I can provide a fax#. Thanks everyone, Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: dash pad on 66 F100 Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 21:25:37 -0500 Is this easy to remove? I'm ready to start sanding the inside of my truck to get ready for a shot of primer. If it comes off easily I will pull it off. If not, I guess it will stay on and get well masked. ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: buy it? Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 06:15:26 -0700 > > > I am considering the purchase of a '79 F-250 supercab (2 wd, 460, AT) > for $1500. I think it is a steal, since the beast is in pretty good > shape and seems to run and drive well (except for some hesitation when > you really stomp on it). However, being unfamiliar with > older Fords, I > thought I would impose on you 'experts' for your opinions and > advice on > what kind of things to look for and be aware of. I have heard that > 460's are not worth much due the rising popularity of the powerstroke > and gas prices. True? Is the 460 a solid, reliable engine? Any > comments on the hesitation during hard acceleration would be useful > too. Thanks in advance for your help and patience with my (ford) > ignorance. (Sorry, but I currently drive a '66 chev 1/2T- my interest > in the supercab is spurred by a need for space for my wife > and two kids) > In short, if you don't buy it I WILL!! I have a 76 F-150 supercab. No complaints. $1500 seems like a good price. The 460 has deservedly been called bullet proof, reliable, solid, dependable. Well maintained they give miles of trouble free service. Since it is an F-250 (3/4 ton) it has a heavier duty rear end, suitable for towing. Also the gearing will probably be lower for towing. Expect to get around 8 mpg. Also expect that the mpg won't change regardless of what you put in it/tow with it. If you were to re-gear it you may get as high as 11 or 12 mpg. Remember this was designed as primarily a work truck. It is built as such. Honestly if you get the same type of SUV/truck today it won't get any better mpg at all so that's not really a factor. Things to look for standard drive line checks, at fluid, water in oil etc. Check for rust/bondo over rear wheel wells and rear corners of cabs. Check the metal that the hood hinges bolt to for rust/ soundness. It probably has dual tanks. Switch is located on dash next to climate controls. Verify it operates. Looseness in steering could be frozen kingpins, worn out rag joint or worn steering components. All of these can be fixed easily (well maybe not the kingpins). If the dash guage reads low oil pressure check the rest of the guages. If they all read low then the oil pressure is probably fine and the guages are off ($13 fix). Let us know. Tom H. PS where is it? ;0) ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: solid roller cam for a 390? Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 06:15:28 -0700 > > > > Is there such a thing? If so where can I find it? > > ---Garrett www.1966ford.com > My PAW catalog has them from Competition cams and Crower. Comp Cams is on page 300, Crower on page 302. Check with mfgr on use. I've heard some aftermarket rollers are not meant for daily street use. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: sloppy steering Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 06:15:27 -0700 > > The following description is of the steering coupling near the box > on 4wd trucks in the 1978 range. (thanks to Bob and Woody for this) > <snip description of rag joint> > > I believe my 1978 has this type of steering connection. The > joint described > above is horribly loose. I'm wondering what it takes to fix > this problem. Not much, just a new rag joint. > Can the intermediate material simply be replaced, or is this one of > those $$$$ problems that crop up every now and then. You could try to cobble something together (thick piece of rubber or something) but I wouldn't. I got mine from Ford. I think it was around $50. I thought it was cheap at that price considering what it did. > It's something that > is definitely requiring attention but the price for an > entire shaft unit > in LMC scared me silly. It seems to me that this must be a > fairly common > problem > on these trucks so hopefully the vast stores of FTE > knowledge can step > up and help me our here. > > Thanks in advance, > > Robert Younker > > Milton, NS > If it is a rag joint you have you don't need to replace a shaft. I thought 4x4s had u-joints in the steering column. What I had was no intermediat material and the only thing providing steering was the safety pins that .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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