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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 11:09:26 -0400 (EDT)
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Tue, 26 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 263

In This Issue:
axle gears     (full of questions today)
Re: axle gears     (full of questions today)
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Thermostat Options
223 Bolt Pattern
Short Livers (or Lifers)
Re: Manuals
Re: Manuals
Re: To: Dawn
Re: To: Dawn
Re: Short Livers (or Lifers)
Re: 460 / 429 Dove heads
Re: Dual Exhaust
Dual exhaust
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Manuals
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Manuals
Re: Manuals
Re: Short Livers (or Lifers)
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Manuals
Re: Short Livers (or Lifers)
Re: Synthetic vs. Dino Oil
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Factory Turbos

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.X. Schulz" <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
Subject: axle gears     (full of questions today)
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 16:10:15 -0600

Hey WishMan,

I've broken those 44 axles several times, always right at the U-joint...this
was with 33's, a 390, a lot of mud, rocks, and roots, and a heavy foot....

It's always a pleasant noise when the whole thing shears off...at the time,
the red Disco Rig only had the one-speed Dana 21 (or 20, can never
remember)....

CJ (who learned the hard way in the Santa Cruz Mountains)


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: axle gears     (full of questions today)
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:57:19 -0700



> Interesting ... you're breaking parts outside the center section again
though
> ... so its not really a power issue, but a power transmittance ... the
axle
> shafts and such just aren't putting up with it ... since the Viper and
Vette
> run the independant rears and such its not an issue for them ... well it
is,
> but its different parts ... and again you're talking about some serious
shock
> loading and running power through sharp angles ... all of which the Viper
has
> trouble mimicking because of its setup ...
The reason that the internal parts are not the failure prone parts with a
steering axle 4wd application is that the axle u joints are the weak link in
the system.  I rarely break axles with 35's and the 44.  What ruins the
axles is when the ujoint fails and eggs out the yoke (yolk) (pun not
intended).  I would imagine there would be more ring and pinion failures if
the ujoint was stronger or if the 44 was used in a non steer position, like
a Jeep or a Scout.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is a handful of warm deer guts


------------------------------

From: "Jim McCarty" <mccarty hillconet.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 18:22:47 -0500

Look at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html






------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 19:35:21 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

At 02:47 PM 9/26/00, you wrote:
>Scott, shame on you......anyway, fill us in since you have all this info on
>the subject :-)  Those of us who have been around a while know that what you
>see/hear is way not what you get in this area.  Half truths is what you get.

Not only that, but some users testify on a products behalf and don't
tell they are dealers.... as happened in this case.  That's why
I banned Amsoil dealers from talking about the products on the lists
a long time ago... they never let you know they are a dealer up front,
and then claim good intentions when asked if they are a dealer.  It
wouldn't be so bad if they actually told you they were dealers first.

So far, I've only had ONE good, up-front, honest from the start,
Amsoil dealer encounter and that has happened recently.  This man
approached me, told me he sold Amsoil and other product lines and
wants to advertise on the site.  I've told him of FTE's previous
experience with Amsoil people.  So far, I must have turned down half
a dozen people wanting to run Amsoil banner ads.  His response will
dictate whether or not I'll proceed with him but the mere fact
that he doesn't think Amsoil is God's gift to engines earns him
some points.  Personally, I think its probably a good oil, but
its not the magic elixir that most claim it to be.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 19:49:21 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

At 07:22 PM 9/26/00, you wrote:
>Look at:
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
>

This is the same old article that the Amsoil people have
been using for years and is so out of date that it is
not usable as a source.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 20:31:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Thermostat Options

Hate  to be accused of shouting, wasn't paying much attention look out for it
next time.

------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: 223 Bolt Pattern
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:15:11 -0500

What type of bellhousings can I use for a 223? I was thinking about mating
one to a C-4. Wanting to know if it fit the smallblock pattern or what, or
is it just oddball? Thanks =P


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 19:16:08 -0700
From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: Short Livers (or Lifers)

dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net> wrote:
is all non caps and run on thoughts just as annoying ?  :-)

YES!

Content:  On the front of mine, it says FORD, in all caps.
Isn't that wrong, somehow?  ;-)
-M-

Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 19:16:14 -0700
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Manuals

Another source of manuals is to go to www.detroitiron.com and get your
manual on CD.  I've got one for my '63 Galaxie and it's great to be able
to look at the page on the computer and then print the page I need.
Their phone number is 1-800-893-8122.

--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net
Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
  (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)



------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 22:25:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Manuals

Nothing like the truck manuals which are available right through this very
site.

http://www.ford-trucks.com

Look to the right menu bar.

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: To: Dawn
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 22:55:22 -0400



>
> Where else can you get service manuals? The Helm site doesn't work
> except for G# manuals!
>
> Thanks
> Virgil
=================================
the best manuals i have ever used were the old MOTORS manuals i dont know if
they even still make them tho havent seen one in years other than the ones i
have
gordon



------------------------------

From: Natp244 cs.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 23:04:11 EDT
Subject: Re: To: Dawn

I think dawn was looking for a manual for a 78??
Lloyd's auto lit (lloydsautolit.com) has new reprints- 5 volumes (factory
shop manual) for.... brace yourself...$119.00.  It's steep, but most of them
are.  Someone suggested checking the online store for this site- and I think
that's the first place to start- especially since it help support this list-
but I don't think they carry that year- still worth checking.
Helm only carries manuals until they are "obsoleted"- and then you have to
look for reprints like the ones above.  Unfortunately they only come as a set
and they cover every light, medium, and heavy duty truck- so you end up
paying for a lot of info you probably won't use.  Good luck.

Nate

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Short Livers (or Lifers)
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 23:15:16 -0400




> dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net> wrote:
> is all non caps and run on thoughts just as annoying ?  :-)
>
> YES!
>
> Content:  On the front of mine, it says FORD, in all caps.
> Isn't that wrong, somehow?  ;-)
> -M-
=============================================================
YEA  but not all of us spent our lives teaching english or typing either
the main thing IS i think when someone asks a question they get a answer i
guess who cares about the rest of it IF we were all english majors i bet we
wouldnt be on here either
gordon



------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 23:41:29 EDT
Subject: Re: 460 / 429 Dove heads

they're my second choice of heads if i'm building a performance engine, they
already have screw in studs, small combustion chambers, and good size ports
although i would do some porting on the exhaust side to make them flow
better. no use to put aluminum intake,big carbs, bigger cams etc unless you
open up the exhaust ports.


------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 23:45:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust

In a message dated 9/26/2000 10:14:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com writes:

<< > << Hello list, Can anyone give me some insight into dual
> exhausts on a '79
> f150 4x4 351M 4sp dual tanks. I want to keep my stock
> manifolds for now. Is
> there anyway to run the exhaust down both sides or would I
> have to run both
> down the ditch side. If I do then would it better to exit
> both on the same
> side or run another pipe over at the back end. It seems like
> this would make
> one pipe run a heck of a lot longer than the other. If I ran
> a crossover pipe
> would this make it not matter.  Thanks.
>   >>
>
> The choice is really up to you. with most 4x4's it's hard to
> get the pipe
> around the xfer case. This makes the dual "ditch side" look
> more attractive.
> One possible alternative if you want the exit on both sides
> look is to route
> the Pass side pipe over to the drivers side and let the
> drivers side exhaust
> on the pass side. This would keep both approx equal length
> and avoid the
> hassles getting the pipe around the drivers side xfer case.
>

With dual tanks I would be really hesitant to route an exhaust pipe anywhere
down the passenger side.  I have seen one truck where the owner routed the
pipes down the outside of the frame.  Looked kinda weird.
 >>

OOps, I over looked the dual tank bit in the origional post. That is a
problem for the Dr Dide (though Ive never had one w a Dr side tank, jsut the
aft end one). Otherwise the basic idea is sound!

George M in Fl.

------------------------------

From: "Phillips" <hosses kootenaycable.com>
Subject: Dual exhaust
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 00:22:40 -0600


From: James Oxley <joxenburger yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust


GMontgo930 aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/24/2000 7:42:38 PM Eastern
Daylight Time,
> hosses kootenaycable.com writes:
>
> << Hello list, Can anyone give me some insight into
dual exhausts on a '79
> f150 4x4 351M 4sp dual tanks. I want to keep my
stock manifolds for now. Is
> there anyway to run the exhaust down both sides or
would I have to run both
> down the ditch side. If I do then would it better to
exit both on the same
> side or run another pipe over at the back end. It
seems like this would make
> one pipe run a heck of a lot longer than the other.
If I ran a crossover pipe
> would this make it not matter.  Thanks.
>   >>
>

I have headers, but this is how my exh runs. It all
fits, but the muffs need to be real small unless you
don't care if they hang down a bit. I have not noticed
any problems with the drivers side exh being longer
than pass side. I've had this exh setup with a stock 2
bbl 351M, 4 bbl 351M, 4 bbl 351M with 400 cam (hair
more lift) and mildly built 400 with a healthy cam. I
do not have a crossover pipe.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/BRONC_DETAILS/under.jpg


                            OX


--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56,
D60/detroit/4.56, 44 boggers, 9" lift
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10,
D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5 SX's, 4"lift
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)


Thanks for all your input guys. but like they say a pictures WATWs. Lots of other cool pics too. Hey this is a great list.


------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 02:34:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

In a message dated 9/26/00 8:09:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
sch8489 garnet.acns.fsu.edu writes:

<< and burt, don't sweat it, I go to a *lot* of cruises where some old-timer
*swears* castor oil is the best lube 'cause that's the way they did it way
back when.  older folks can be a stubborn and tenacious lot when it comes
to deeply held convictions.  my neighbor a few years back was ready to
burn me at the stake because I didn't worship at the temple of mopar.
 >>
Not a 100% sure, but we may be about 95% in violent agreement.  You obviously
know what you are talking about.
Burt Hill

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:25:58 -0700

If my information is correct, Amsoil is an offshoot of the company who
pioneered the polymer oil for the military and jet engine commercial
intersts some 30 or 40 years ago.  The owner of this company is one of the
designers/developers of this technology and it is a valid technology for
it's intended purpose........jet engines.

It has limited use as an automotive oil because auto engines don't abuse it
like turbines and jet engines do.  In other words, the properties of this
very expensive oil are lost on auto engines except in the most rigorous
racing applications such as 5000 hp nitro sleds........maybe :-)  The simple
fact is that by the time a normal dino oil will have begun to deteriorate it
needs to be changed anyway due to chemical contamination so polymer oils
have little place in our applications except for the "Cool" factor.

I use Mobil 1 because I'm lazy and feel it does give me a slight edge over
dino oils IF I happen to go over the change limit a little bit but even this
may be wishful thinking on my part due to the chemical contamination.  Most
of the chemicals that develop over time in the oil won't damage the cast
iron or steel parts but have a dramatic effect on soft metal parts,  that
is, Bearings, so if you don't change oil regularily, this is the first place
most engines will fail.  Rings usually are the result of poor air filter
maintenance or PCV maintenance or a coolant leak into the oil.

Using Amsoil and, perhaps, even Mobil 1 is over kill sort of like using
titanium parts in our daily driver would be.  You will never stress your
vehicle enough to gain any benefit from it.  Use what ever oil you like,
bolt on any parts you like and enjoy the "Cool" factor till your teeth fall
out but don't be misled by the hype.........THERE AINT NO FREE LUNCH :-)

There will never be a "Magic" weight loss pill either but books which
promote such foolishness are on the best seller list because people want to
be fooled.  When I was a kid I had to walk............but kids now days
don't..........:-)  Anyway, have fun with your trucks, just don't fall for
every thing you read :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> some points.  Personally, I think its probably a good oil, but
> its not the magic elixir that most claim it to be.



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Manuals
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:33:34 -0700

Their index page appears to be under construction and not having any links
so you have to call them I guess........

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Another source of manuals is to go to www.detroitiron.com and get your
> manual on CD.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:52:11 -0400
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

Gary wrote:

Hey gary, welcome back!! Hows retirement going?? :-)

> It has limited use as an automotive oil because auto engines don't abuse it
> like turbines and jet engines do.  In other words, the properties of this
> very expensive oil are lost on auto engines except in the most rigorous
> racing applications such as 5000 hp nitro sleds........maybe :-)  The simple
> fact is that by the time a normal dino oil will have begun to deteriorate it
> needs to be changed anyway due to chemical contamination so polymer oils
> have little place in our applications except for the "Cool" factor.

Maybe truck engines, but what about turbo applications. I don't know
what the oil temp is inside a non-water cooled turbo, but I know the EGT
on my 4 banger gets up to 1600 F in the exh turbine housing.

> I use Mobil 1 because I'm lazy and feel it does give me a slight edge over
> dino oils IF I happen to go over the change limit a little bit but even this
> may be wishful thinking on my part due to the chemical contamination.

I use it mostly for cold start, especially winter. How true it is that
it maintains viscosity better than dino oil?? It sure is thinner than
conventional oil, weight per wieght.

                                   OX


78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

From: "Scott Jensen" <sjensensr worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Manuals
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 06:13:17 -0700


If you're in Portland, go down to Powells Books. They have a good selection of used Haines/Chiltons plus a bunch of old factory manuals. Bought my copy of Steve Christ's book there, too.

Kind of off list, but they have a whole building FULL of Tech books. A real geek playground.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 09:22:51 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Manuals

At 10:16 PM 9/26/00, you wrote:
>Another source of manuals is to go to www.detroitiron.com and get your
>manual on CD.  I've got one for my '63 Galaxie and it's great to be able
>to look at the page on the computer and then print the page I need.
>Their phone number is 1-800-893-8122.
>
>--
>Tim Bowman
>Burien, WA
>tkbowman uswest.net
>Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
>   (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)

Detroit Iron, according to Jim, no longer sells directly
to the public or at least avoids it.

Jim doesn't like dropping everything, burning one CD and
sending it out.  Its much more time effective for him to
do a run of 10-50 for a company and send them out.  As it
stands, there's usually a wait of a week or two before he
burns a batch.  This is why he's taken everything off the
page.  We sell the Ford truck CDs on the web site and have
about 60 in inventory at any given time, from 32-72.

For this particular topic, however, the point is moot,
because Detroit Iron does not sell 73-79 Ford truck manuals
(yet).  The CDs are generally better than the printed manuals
as far as content.  While a printed manual is handier, the
CDs have additional literature added to them as Jim finds
more to put on them.  Service bulletins, accessories books,
guides, etc are on many of the CDs.

I'm not sure where you would go for non-truck CDs from
Detroit Iron though I have run into a couple of companies
on the net selling them.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts




------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:27:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Short Livers (or Lifers)

>YEA  but not all of us spent our lives teaching english or typing either
>the main thing IS i think when someone asks a question they get a answer i

>guess who cares about the rest of it

We've had a few instances in the past where the wrong wording, or just plain
wrong word was used to describe a part and some people thought they were talking
about one thing, others thought they were talking about something else ... so
sometimes its good to be sure you are all on the same page, I'm not sayin the
English or typin has to be perfect, but if there's any confusion over what's
being said, then it might be time to ask for sure what they're trying to say
...

>IF we were all english majors i bet we
>wouldnt be on here either

No, but I'd still be getting just as much mail from you guys I'm sure ...

"Word won't open, when it does it locks up ..."
"How come I can't print?"
"My class wants to put their stuff on the web"
...

sorry, flash backs to my real job...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 09:43:37 -0700

I highly recommend retirement to anyone who is not overly materialistic in
his goals :-)  I allowed some padding in my savings to allow for the 2
months with no income but that's all I have saved ahead.  I am living on my
allowance and that's it but I wouldn't trade it for all the money in China
:-)  I hope to build that ultimate 460 some day but it's going to require
some serious care with my resources.........when I get caught up on the
"Honey Do" list :-)

Actually I think you are right on both counts, Cold Starts and High heat.
If I had another turbo I would use synthetic exclusively in it.  My last one
lasted 110k miles because I always idled it for one minute before shutting
it off to cool the turbo.   Just in case anyone doesn't know, the reason you
use "Low Ash" oil in a turbo is to reduce the "Coking" effect on shut down.
With no oil flow the heat from the turbo housing "Soaks" into the bearings
and litterly fries the oil in them into little carbon crystals which act
like little grinding wheels next time you turn it on.

Synthetic oil, expecially the polymer type resists this much better than the
very best dino oils and a "Post" luber is almost a necessity with these as
well.  Most OEM's put them on as standard equipment now.  My 86 Cougar
didn't have one.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

>  Hey gary, welcome back!! Hows retirement going?? :-)
>
>  Maybe truck engines, but what about turbo applications. I don't know
> what the oil temp is inside a non-water cooled turbo, but I know the EGT
> on my 4 banger gets up to 1600 F in the exh turbine housing.
>
>  I use it mostly for cold start, especially winter. How true it is that



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 06:48:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Manuals

Well since I just went through trying to find the '78 manual back in April
I guess I should speak up.  I found at least three different places that
carried either original used or new copies of the original manuals.
Unfortunately I can't find the list of which companies I contacted.  Dohh!
I do know that I ended up purchasing the new copy (and it is just that, a
photocopy) of the manuals from Irv Bishko Books.  I think I got the
original list from yahoo at

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dir.yahoo.com/Business_and_Economy/Shopping_and_Services/Books/Booksellers/Automotive/

Bishko books is at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.autobooksbishko.com/

Be warned that it is expensive at $120+ and it comes three hold punched
and shrink-wrapped in plastic.  I had to find two huge three ring binders
(3") to put it all in.  Let me tell you though its been worth it.  One
other thing it does not include wiring diagrams.  That's a separate book.

HTH,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project Still in Progress)
'95 Mustang GT "Beauty" (Daily Driver)

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 07:09:58 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Short Livers (or Lifers)



G & J Boling wrote:

> =============================================================
> YEA  but not all of us spent our lives teaching english or typing either
> the main thing IS i think when someone asks a question they get a answer i
> guess who cares about the rest of it IF we were all english majors i bet we
> wouldnt be on here either
> gordon
>

I am an English teacher. I don't get all worked up over poor
grammar/spelling/syntax/whatever unless I really want to understand what
the communicator is trying to communicate. Then it can be frustrating.
The previous group of words has at least four different possible
meanings, depending on punctuation.  Since none of the possible meanings
have any impact on my Ford truck or my life, I don't really care which
the writer intended.

 My feeling is that if a person doesn't care if anyone understands
exactly whatever he/she is trying to communicate, then type on. I can
ignore it.  It must not be that important.

I guess an analogy would be caring what kind of lubricant another uses
in his/her Ford truck.  All one can do is give advice and/or information
and let the advisee do whatever he/she wants...He/she will anyway...

------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Synthetic vs. Dino Oil
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 11:08:39 -0400

Here was another good reason for a pre-luber, post lubing! The fancy store
bought has an adjustable timer for the prevention of heat soak and coking. A
simple timer could be rigged up for the homebuilt though. Actually between
this a combination of electric fan and electric water pump you could do a
good job of cooling evenly the motor. With my luck though the next time I
jump in the battery would be dead!
John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's
<Actually I think you are right on both counts, Cold Starts <and High heat.
<If I had another turbo I would use synthetic exclusively <in it.  My last
one
<lasted 110k miles because I always idled it for one <minute before shutting
<it off to cool the turbo.   Just in case anyone doesn't <know, the reason
you
<use "Low Ash" oil in a turbo is to reduce the "Coking" <effect on shut
down.
<With no oil flow the heat from the turbo housing "Soaks" <into the bearings
<and litterly fries the oil in them into little carbon crystals <which act
<like little grinding wheels next time you turn it on.




------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 14:54:12 GMT
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize


>With no oil flow the heat from the turbo housing "Soaks" into the bearings

>and litterly fries the oil in them into little carbon crystals which act
>like little grinding wheels next time you turn it on.
>

It should probably be noted that the "bearings" in a turbo are just like those
of the crank and cam, journal bearings ... there aren't little balls flying
around in there when the turbo's at speed, so that oil is just as important
to the turbo as it is to the crank ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 11:53:52 -0400
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize



wish wrote:
>
> >With no oil flow the heat from the turbo housing "Soaks" into the bearings
>
> >and litterly fries the oil in them into little carbon crystals which act
> >like little grinding wheels next time you turn it on.
> >
>
> It should probably be noted that the "bearings" in a turbo are just like those
> of the crank and cam, journal bearings ... there aren't little balls flying
> around in there when the turbo's at speed, so that oil is just as important
> to the turbo as it is to the crank ...
>

They do make ball bearing turbos, the latest in hop ups for upgraded
turbos. Not sure if any were ever std equipment.

                                   OX

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 10:59:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> It should probably be noted that the "bearings" in a turbo are just like those
> of the crank and cam, journal bearings ... there aren't little balls flying
> around in there when the turbo's at speed, so that oil is just as important
> to the turbo as it is to the crank ...

I agree with all that has been said about synthetic oil and turbos and the
properties of synthetic oil. But...

Does anyone have a stock, factory original or properly restored 61-79 F
series truck with a factory turbo on it? I didn't think so. It was a good
discussion, but it doesn't apply. So Slick 50, WD 40, STP Oil Treatment,
etc. are scams but synthetics aren't. Sorry, I'm not convinced, but I doubt
I will be. There has been enough good information transpire for anyone to
make an intelligent decision for their use. To me, that's what counts.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:05:05 EDT
Subject: Factory Turbos

In a message dated 9/27/00 9:00:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:


> Does anyone have a stock, factory original or properly restored 61-79 F ....


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