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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:08:50 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Mon, 25 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 260

In This Issue:
axle gears     (full of questions today)
66 Paint codes
Re: Dual tanks which ones main?
Re: axle gears     (full of questions today)
Re: time error
Re: axle gears     (full of questions today)
Re: Help w/ F350
Re: axle gears     (full of questions today)
[Fwd: Fuel Atomizer..(was Clean Fuel Tank)]
Re: axle gears     (full of questions today)
Re: To: Dawn
Re: Thermostat Options
351W Heads
Thank you everyone
Re: BTW Headlights  Wiring
Re: Frame Cleaning
Re: Anti-Seize
Re: Dual tanks which ones main?
Re: Dual tanks which ones main?
where to buy a gas tank
Re: 460
Re: 351W Heads
where to buy a gas tank
Re: 460 / 429 Dove heads
OIL
Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize
Re: Dual Exhaust
Re: [Fwd: Fuel Atomizer..(was Clean Fuel Tank)]
Re: To: Dawn

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: axle gears     (full of questions today)
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:44:42 -0400

Anyone have an idea what would be the best set of gears to run with 44's,
4speed, 460?  The gears in the rear right now get me off the line in no
time.  I'm shifting out of first in one second (usually start in second),
and 4th is just about right.  Is there a way to identify the gears that are
in there now?  I know I could jack it up and spin the tires, but that's a
problem because the tires don't always spin with the driveshaft when the
hubs are locked.
I'm trying to match the fronts and rears gears and the dana 44 front axle's
must be shot.  I haven't opened up the crown yet, but I'm guessing the
problems I'm having are due to missing teeth, or terrible alignment of the
teeth.  I don't really know what I'm doing inside an axle, but I've read the
"78-79 Dana 44 rebuild" page.  Is this something I should take on myself, it
seems like something I'd be able to do properly. (?)

-bob-


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 13:48:26 -0700
From: Brian Koss <bkoss mail.arc.nasa.gov>
Subject: 66 Paint codes

I'm getting ready to paint my 66 truck wimbleton white. Is the wimbleton
white the same white used on the custom cab interiors? I used to have a
"real" custom cab. It had two paint codes but I did not write them down?



------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Dual tanks which ones main?
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:50:09 -0500

Dawn wrote:
> Anyway which tank is which Main and Aux  ?
On my '78 F150 Supercab, the main tank is in the front.
> Assuming they are stock how much gas will they hold each?
I can't answer you on that one yet. I can't seem to finr enough cash to get
both filled at the same time.

Jason Kendrick



------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: axle gears     (full of questions today)
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 13:51:59 -0700

I'm assuming your tranny is a NP-435 or T-18,   Both of these have a granny
first gear...This is reason you have to shift into second so soon.  Most
people rarely use first gear, except when pulling a heavy load or off-road.

With 44's I doubt you could gear your axles to low.  I'd go 5.13's maybe
lower.

It's a failry long process to change the gears in a D44,  from the sound of
things you may be better off taking this to a shop to have done.  The 9"
rear is much easier to work on for someone who has never sawped gears
before.

If your drive shaft is spinning, and your hubs are locked your tires should
be turing as well.  If not you got a broken axle, ring/pinion gear, or a
sheared center pin.  With those 44" tires that D44 is never going to last
very long anyway.

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx home.com]
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 8:45 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] axle gears (full of questions today)


Anyone have an idea what would be the best set of gears to run with 44's,
4speed, 460?  The gears in the rear right now get me off the line in no
time.  I'm shifting out of first in one second (usually start in second),
and 4th is just about right.  Is there a way to identify the gears that are
in there now?  I know I could jack it up and spin the tires, but that's a
problem because the tires don't always spin with the driveshaft when the
hubs are locked.
I'm trying to match the fronts and rears gears and the dana 44 front axle's
must be shot.  I haven't opened up the crown yet, but I'm guessing the
problems I'm having are due to missing teeth, or terrible alignment of the
teeth.  I don't really know what I'm doing inside an axle, but I've read the
"78-79 Dana 44 rebuild" page.  Is this something I should take on myself, it
seems like something I'd be able to do properly. (?)

-bob-

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Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:06:54 GMT
Subject: Re: time error



>I just discovered that my system clock was set to February 2, 2036. I
>apologize if this error caused any problems with your system. I still don't

>know how it happened, but I think my Palm had something to do with it.
>

Hahahahaha ... I didn't think Mac's worked after that year ?  :)  We had some
kids set our lab machines to that one time so they wouldn't rebuild and remove
all the games they'd installed ...

FTE Content -> My truck doesn't care  what year it is as long as its got gas
water and oil :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:14:58 GMT
Subject: Re: axle gears     (full of questions today)

> With those 44" tires that D44 is never going to last
>very long anyway.
>

This brings up an interesting question in my head so I thought I'd type it out
and see if anyone knew the answer off-hand ... you off-road/rock-crawling/mud-bogging
4wheelers out there who break these D44's ... is this usually in 4-lo ?  is
it usually the axle shaft itself, or the center section ?

The reason I ask is the Viper's and Vette's and such seem to be able to put
a whole lotta power through their D44's they're only runnin 26" tires (315/35/17),
but still the 650+hp the Hennessey Viper's are putting out is some serious power
... I know there are differences in there and such, like the indpendent rears
that they carry would help eliminate the axle breakages ...
Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Help w/ F350
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:29:45 -0500

What seems to be the problem with the heating system, other than it has a
problem?
Jason Kendrick


------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: axle gears     (full of questions today)
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:26:28 -0700

I am running 38.5" Swamper SX's on my 79 D44, I have a 4 speed, 460 and a
pretty heavy right foot.

Usually it's just the axle u-joint that breaks (especially when the wheels
are turned)  I break these regularly.  The axle shafts do break every once
in a while usually the long side just past the splines where the shaft
neckes down.  A couple months ago I upgraded to warn axle shafts and I have
yet to break one of those, but I haven't wheeled it to hard yet so we'll
see.

Most everyone I have broke has been in 4-lo but then again most of the
wheelin I do I'm in 4-lo.
I have broken a u-joint or two racin' threw mud in 4-hi.

I'm guessin' the reason D44's hold up better in vettes and vipers is the
lower weight.  My truck probably tips the scales around 6,000 lbs.--maybe
more while a vetter only weighs slightly more than half of that.  They are
also not running 38" rubber whitch may be the biggest reason.  You don't
hear of to many people breaking D44 on a stock truck--But then again most
people don't wheel stock trucks very hard.

It's still pretty amazing they do hold up to that kind of abuse.  I went
through three 9" rears before I installed my 10.25".


Josh
-----Original Message-----
From: wish [mailto:wish ford-trucks.net]
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:15 PM
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: axle gears (full of questions today)


> With those 44" tires that D44 is never going to last
>very long anyway.
>

This brings up an interesting question in my head so I thought I'd type it
out
and see if anyone knew the answer off-hand ... you
off-road/rock-crawling/mud-bogging
4wheelers out there who break these D44's ... is this usually in 4-lo ?  is
it usually the axle shaft itself, or the center section ?

The reason I ask is the Viper's and Vette's and such seem to be able to put
a whole lotta power through their D44's they're only runnin 26" tires
(315/35/17),
but still the 650+hp the Hennessey Viper's are putting out is some serious
power
... I know there are differences in there and such, like the indpendent
rears
that they carry would help eliminate the axle breakages ...
Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:49:59 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: [Fwd: Fuel Atomizer..(was Clean Fuel Tank)]



-- Attached file included as plaintext by Listar --

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Message-ID: <39CF58DD.568E97E5 ctc.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 06:53:33 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (Win98; U)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: [61-79-list] Fuel Atomizer..(was Clean Fuel Tank)
References: <9c.781f3a8.26fd3666 aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I just bookmarked your page (I think for the second time).  Always glad
to help out a fellow FTE-er.

While I'm on Eastwood, it reminds my of a piece I picked up at a yard
sale, even though it looked brand new.  For $5 (her husband wasn't there
and she didn't know the price), I grabbed a new K&N filter w/chrome
cover and an odd looking cylinder-shaped piece of tin with vertical
slots--kind of hard to describe.  I set it aside, wondering what in the
heck it was doing inside the air cleaner.  Then, when paging through the
Eastwood catalog, I came across the item for $65--it's supposed to swirl
the air, causing fuel atomization.  After seeing that, I installed it
inside the K&N on my Cleveland.  I don't really know if it helped or
not.

I do have a question--is it supposed to sit loosely and turn with the
air flow, or should it be secure.  I made a rubber grommet-type thing to
hold it down snug, but I was wondering if any of you had any experience
with this type of gadget.

Could be a scam, but it almost makes sense to me...


TBeeee aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Dennis:
>
>    I saw you might make an Eastwood purchase.  My web site is an affiliate
> site.  They send me a commission on any on-line pruchases.  I'd be pleased if
> you would be so inclined.  Thanks and good luck on the cleaning project.



------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: axle gears     (full of questions today)
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:36:52 -0700

The difference between a Vette and say a full size pickup or Bronco...  1.
Weight- a trail ready, full size Bronco or pickup weighs in between 4500 to
6000 lbs.  Thats a lot more weight than a typical Vette or Viper. 2.
Traction Yes, a modified Vette or Viper may be cranking out 600 hp, but how
much is actually getting to the pavement.  Rockcrawlers running super low
gears and Boggers usually have a high degree of traction and something has
to give, usually the 44's u joint or the stub axle.  Many of the mud bogging
failures I've seen with the 44 are due to coming out of a hole under power
with a wheel or 2 in the air.  The spinning wheel hits the dirt, and again,
something has to give.  3. Tire size.  If I ran 26" tires on my 44, it would
probably never break.  I wouldn't get very far though.  Most guys are
running 35" or larger tires.  This accounts for a lot of weight and more
tread contact patch to further stress the 44.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is a handful of warm deer guts
----- Original Message -----
From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:14 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: axle gears (full of questions today)


> > With those 44" tires that D44 is never going to last
> >very long anyway.
> >
>
> This brings up an interesting question in my head so I thought I'd type it
out
> and see if anyone knew the answer off-hand ... you
off-road/rock-crawling/mud-bogging
> 4wheelers out there who break these D44's ... is this usually in 4-lo ?
is
> it usually the axle shaft itself, or the center section ?
>
> The reason I ask is the Viper's and Vette's and such seem to be able to
put
> a whole lotta power through their D44's they're only runnin 26" tires
(315/35/17),
> but still the 650+hp the Hennessey Viper's are putting out is some serious
power
> ... I know there are differences in there and such, like the indpendent
rears
> that they carry would help eliminate the axle breakages ...
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
> 73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
> Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> http://www.ford-trucks.com
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 18:29:33 -0400
From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: To: Dawn

>Dawn, I would suggest that you go to the library and borrow books on auto
>mechanics basics and Ford shop manuals for the year or years range of your
>truck. The basic books will explain the way engines work and systems like
>brakes and get you started on "labels" for parts and procedures. Read lots
>of magazines and self-help booklets (some at auto stores) to help in
>repairs. The Ford specific books will show pictures for your models. A
>Chilton or Haynes (best) book at Auto-Zone or eleswhere will cover several
>years of Ford trucks. Getting deep into a project w/out knowing things can
>be dangerous to yourself and others and if things
>go bad, can be VERY discouraging and a waste of time and money. Perhaps
>another running vehicle would be the way to go if needed now and rebuild
>truck as you can at slower pace. Get Books, and more books first.

The Chilton and Haynes manuals (debateable as to which is actually best!)
are quite thorough for a lot of stuff but can be vague when you're getting
into some of the nitty gritty. The Ford service manuals (many available
from www.helm.com - about $100) are great except they only cover one year.
Good thing the 73-79 trucks are mostly the same. They provide a lot more
specific information on fixing and diagnosing problems - a must have I
think if you plan on driving the truck for a while.

Most definitely, having a running daily driver is the best thing you can
have. It's a pain when you're truck is half dissassembled on Saturday
afternoon and you find you need to go buy a part and don't have any way to
get to the store! Plus, I found you tend to half ass the repair in order to
get the truck running again so you can make it to work the next day. When
you have another vehicle you aren't in such a rush to get it back together
that you put a little more care and attention into it or you don't scrimp
and get the cheapo part because payday is still a week away.

Finally, absolutely nothing beats running the problem you're about to
tackle by this list first. Bless their souls, these guys give you
information that no shop manual or mechanic can, for free! Heck, I've often
posted a question at 10pm and gotten an answer by 7 the next morning - no
garage works those hours!

Plus, as long as you do your brakes and steering right (well, mainly the
brakes at least) you can mess up just about anything else! May cost you a
good chunk of time and money but even an absolutely novice could rebuild a
motor, screw it up and you're chances of killing yourself with it are
pretty slim...just don't stand too close when you first start it up.
(Hopefully no one flames me...I'm not condoning reckless repairs on your
truck just trying to make a point that these Ford trucks are quite
forgiving. Sure my truck is making a steady ticking noise from the oil pan
in synch with the engine speed and it's going to cause me to be stranded in
a -40 Celsius snowstorm this January but it's going to run fine for the 4
months till then!)


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 18:41:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Thermostat Options

i HAVE ALWAYS BEEN UNDER THE UNDERSTANDING THAT AN ENG. PERFORMS BEST AT
BETWEEN 200 AND 210 DEGREES .BUT BECAUSE THAT IS SO CLOSE TO BOILING WE PUT
LOWER THERM. IN THEIR SO IT DOESN'T BOIL. WE USE ANTIFREEZE WHICH HAS A
HIGHER BOIL RATE THAN WATER. WITH A 195 THERM. IN YOUR ENG. THAT IS THE TEMP.
THAT IT OPENS AND BEING A BIG BLOCK IT WILL RUN HOTTER THAN THAT. NOT LIKE A
4 BANGER THAT THE THERM. KEEPS OPENING AND CLOSING BECAUSE IT COOLS OFF TO
QUICK. THE LONG AND SHORT IS IN MY OPINION IS IF YOU CAN RUN A 195 THAN GO
FOR IT,THATS THE CLOSEST TO 200 DEGREES YOU CAN GET.

------------------------------

From: MJCETripp aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 18:46:20 EDT
Subject: 351W Heads

Freinds!

I'm in a tough spot.  My 89 Bronco motor when bad.  I bought a motor in a
basket 74 351W bored 30, silvolite hypertec pistons, fresh crank and fresh
heads for $200.

The heads have a differnt style rocker on them than the standard fulcrum
rocker that I'm used to on the 460, 351M, 400.  It resembles an adjustable
rocker with a pressed in shaft that has a shoulder just below the threads.

I cant find a casting number to designate the year of the heads.  Only
numbers I find are (351 Ford 75 6031) under the area which is normally
covered by the rocker cover.  Is there another location?

My question is are these adjustable rockers or do they torque down like the
other ford rockers I"m used to. If they are torqued down what is teh ft/lbs
required.  I"m not finding it in any manual.

Thanks for your help. I know it's not an old ford truck but it's an and older
block and heads so I thought you guys might be able to help!

Please respond to my email directly as to not bother the rest of the list.

Matt
mjcetripp aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: Thank you everyone
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:08:08 -0700


Thanks everyone for all the information, and I do have a haynes or chilton its out in the truck at the moment so I'm not sure which it is.  I do know somethings but I'm still just learning. . . I didn't have a father around all the time to teach me.  And at that point in my life I was more interested in working at making money than working on cars anyway.  (Typical teenage girl)

Apparently the guy that had this truck did a few alterations (Tom said something about changing the electronic ignition to points) but he got that worked out. . . like I said to begin with this was an oops truck. . . If I'd a known that Tom hadn't checked it out and didn't want me to bid on it I wouldn't have. . . at least not without checking it out myself, in which case I wouldn't have with all we could see wrong with it after the auction, but after I won the auction I had no choice.

I do have another running vehicle (I'm driving Tom's Shelby Charger around Portland and St. Helens) but Tom has a job interview at the end of the week for a job in Colorado Springs and if he gets it they said they want the position filled last month so we'll have to move rather quickly (within say two weeks being generous).  I need the truck able to tow the Charger to Colorado.  Tom will drive out the Shadow and take the bus back and then use the Moving truck to tow the Porsche.

It won't be so hectic after the end of the week we'll more than likely know by Monday if we have to move.  If we don't I can slowly work on the truck; clean out the garage and try to move it in there (if it will fit even cleaned out <G>).

Tom knows what he's doing mechanically and electrically, the problem is with his hours there is no daylight left to work on the vehicles. . . I've done more mechanical work in the last three months on the vehicles than I have in the nearly 12 years we've been married. <G>

Sorry I'm being so full of questions but Y'all often have better ways than the Manuals that are just as good but take less time and more ingenuity. . . its from experience. . . If I could afford the phone calls I'd be calling Tom's and My Dads.  But they each live in different states and neither use email but maybe twice a month.

Thanks again for all the help and sorry this is so long, unless the Truck tries to explode on me I'll just lurk for a while.

And maybe with the next bonus I can get that service manual.  This bonus is almost gone <G>I wonder why.

Dawn Chere


------------------------------

From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: Re: BTW Headlights  Wiring
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:18:17 -0700

Ok but they're not there that's why I was asking for help on how to get to
them.  They're under that ledge behind the fender and not inside the engine
compartment.  I wish I could get my hands around the neck of the guy that
had this truck.. . . of course I also need to wring my own neck for bidding
on the beast.

Dawn Chere
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary <gpeters3 lni.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:26 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: BTW Headlights Wiring


> The wires run under the frame to the rear lights but the head lights are
all
> in the bundle up front under the hood.  They should actually be right on
top
> of the inner fender on the driver side and may run through the front
> radiator support to the passenger side or a separate bundle from the fire
> wall.  To isolate the problem you may have to unwrap the bundles and check
> for corrosion under the insulation.  Look for green spots on the
insulation
> which are an indication of oxidized copper and may indicate a break in the
> wire hidden by the insulation.  This is very common on old trucks.
>
> For the head lights the most common problem is a corroded plug at the bulb
> and for the tail lights the ground wire may be broken (near the socket) or
> the socket may be too corroded to get a good ground.
>
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)
>
> > Is there an easy way to get to the headlight wires.  I have one working
> headlight and no other lights work on my F250. . . The wires come out of
the
> headlight area and immediately go into the body of the side panels and I
> never see them again until I'm looking at the switch in the cab.
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:43:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Frame Cleaning

I said I cleaned my frame I didn't say I cleaned my whole truck. A truck
frame consist of a couple of frame rails and some cross braces.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:48:51 -0700
From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Anti-Seize

John Lord <thelord home.com> wrote:
> In fact in some places it is illegal to lube your lug's

John,
Just so that I can be sure of being in proper compliance, can you cite some
sources?  I use wheel bearing grease on mine, and I'd sure hate to get a
nasty fine for doing so.

Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Dual tanks which ones main?
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 17:22:09 -0700


>
>
>
> Ok while I'm asking questions that put the horse before the
> cart. . . .
>
> I finally found the switch to change tanks <G> its on the
> heating controls ; )
>
> Anyway which tank is which Main and Aux  ?
> Assuming they are stock how much gas will they hold each?
>
> Dawn Chere
> '78 F 100 Straight 6 (For Sale $500 obo)
> '78 F 250 XLT Extended V-8 460
>


The auxiliary tank is located in the middle of the bed, in front of the rear
wheel on ALL 73-79 models (set up as from factory).  The main tank on
regular and crew cabs in in the cab till about 77.  On 73-79 Super cabs and
77-79 regular and crew cabs the main tank is at the rear of the bed.  Close
to 20 gallons each. Or approx $60-$80 per fillup. =:-0

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Josh Assing" <josh jassing.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 17:29:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Dual tanks which ones main?

I missed most of this thread; but a while back in my search for a
secondary tank for my 72 F100 4x4; I ended up with one for
something other than my truck....

1) is that person still on the list? he said he'd sell it and I'd just ship
it to the new purchaser...
2) Does anyone want it?

-josh


------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: where to buy a gas tank
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:38:07 -0500


I am going to be putting an 85 Isuzu Trooper gas tank in my 66, and have had some trouble finding one. Anybody know of a company that sells gas tanks that has a webpage?


---Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

From: "Jeffery Hansen" <billybobjoehansen hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 460
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 00:39:54 GMT

 Ditto what Jason says.  Also, I an episode I went through with The Muny
Pit right after I rebuilt the 429 was extreme water condensation in the new
oil.  Changed it - did it again.  Pulled the valve covers - had about 1/4
thick milky goo underneath side of the valve covers.  This was when I lived
North Chicago and the weather was perfectly awesome for deer hunting. (wife
said it was too &^*&# % cold for sane humans to live in)  Plumbed in a PVC
system and ended the water condensation in the oil.  One 10 mile trip and
the oil was pure gold, or new oil color which ever you prefer.  Cured that
problem - but ever since acts now like it's got a major vacume leak - which
the pvc system basically is.
_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:41:54 EDT
Subject: Re: 351W Heads

I have a 351W in my F250 with the same type heads it's been awhile but I
believe mine are 68-71 that should put you in the ballpark. The rockerarms
are adjustable but you have to do it in a sequence and the torque is1/2 turn
after the play is out of the pushrod. Found all my info in a ford smallblock
rebuild book. If your having a lot of trouble finding the info I can look it
up in my book and e-mail it to you.

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: where to buy a gas tank
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:38:07 -0500


I am going to be putting an 85 Isuzu Trooper gas tank in my 66, and have had some trouble finding one. Anybody know of a company that sells gas tanks that has a webpage?


---Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:56:21 EDT
Subject: Re: 460 / 429 Dove heads


    Ok one & all, Whats so great about these types of heads ? I've got
access to 2 sets . One set I'm told is 1969 the other is 1970. This guy says
he wants $100.00 per set. Is this a good price ?


 Steve     64 f-100

------------------------------

From: "Jeffery Hansen" <billybobjoehansen hotmail.com>
Subject: OIL
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 00:56:58 GMT

Synthetic -vs- Dino.  Before I left Chicago I was forced to make a choice
between my beloved 86 T-bird, or The Muny Pit.  Have'n sunk my whole IRA,
last 3 tax returns, one loan, and countless second job paychecks into The
Muny Pit, I chose her.  The 86 Turbo T-bird - I bought her with around
90,000 miles in November 94.  The life expectancy on the turbo was 80,000 so
the fella was looking to get rid of it.  I gave him $1900.  Running Mobile 1
20w50 in the summer, 10W-30 in the winters - she would still sit you back in
the seat leaving stop lights, do 2 g's on exit ramps, when I sold her - with
246,825 miles on the OD - all original except clutch, tires, brakes, alt,
starter, and exhaust (the suspension mod's/strut brace/caster&camber
plates/uruthane bushings/motorsport springs/paint job were just "gotta
haves").  I swear by synthetic.  Don't mean I put it in the Munt Pit - hell
can't even afford a regular oil change with an 8 qt oil pan the way it's
always sucking my wallet dry for other things.
_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 21:01:49 -0700

Thank you John, I missed that little point.....especially true with disk
brakes but true in any case :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Actually, you shouldn't put all purpose grease on wheel bearings.


------------------------------

From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 18:05:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust

At 05:35 PM 25:09:2000 GMT, wish wrote:
>>Hello list, Can anyone give me some insight into dual exhausts on a '79 f150
>>4x4 351M 4sp dual tanks. I want to keep my stock manifolds for now. Is there
>>anyway to run the exhaust down both sides or would I have to run both down the
>>ditch side. If I do then would it better to exit both on the same side or run
>>another pipe over at the back end.
>
>I think it was John that came up with the idea of running the ditch side bank
>of cylinders over across to the centerline side so that the pipes will actually
>be the same length since the centerline side has to go to ditch side initially,
>it should be the same in the end (scary huh ? :)

Wrong, It is my idea, which I have done on a number of vehicles, the problem
is, if you start with two equal length head pipes, the cross-over winds up being
a really odd shape, and the mufflers wind up being staggered.  Not an impossible
arrangement on a long bed, but kinda difficult on the short bed...but how it
works
is:  The drivers side exits on the passenger side, and the passenger side exits
on the drivers side, both mufflers are on the passenger side, but they're
staggered
so the pipe lengths are the same...the balance tube winds up being an "S" shape
because the head pipes are staggered...it's easier in a pickup to do this
because
you can stand the mufflers up, but the balance tube is a tad on the annoying
side...


Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, terminal cancer...
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....


------------------------------

From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 18:05:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Fuel Atomizer..(was Clean Fuel Tank)]

At 02:49 PM 25:09:2000 -0700, Dennis Pearson wrote:

>Then, when paging through the
>Eastwood catalog, I came across the item for $65--it's supposed to swirl
>the air, causing fuel atomization.  After seeing that, I installed it
>inside the K&N on my Cleveland.  I don't really know if it helped or
>not.

You've shot my opinion of you all to hell.

Have you ever heard the term "Snakeoil"??

If you think about this for a second or two, what would
swirling the intake mixture do to the fuel droplets? As fuel
is 9 times more dense than air, wouldn't the fuel smack into the
port walls. Would this be a good thing or a bad thing?

>Could be a scam, but it almost makes sense to me...

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing...

Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, terminal cancer...
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....


------------------------------

From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 18:05:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: To: Dawn

At 06:29 PM 25:09:2000 -0400, David Wadson wrote:

>The Chilton and Haynes manuals (debateable as to which is actually best!)
>are quite thorough for a lot of stuff but can be vague when you're getting
>into some of the nitty gritty.

A better bet is a Clymer manual, if you can find them. Next to a factory
workshop manual, they're the best...

>Finally, absolutely nothing beats running the problem you're about to
>tackle by this list first. Bless their souls, these guys give you
>information that no shop manual or mechanic can, for free! Heck, I've often
>posted a question at 10pm and gotten an answer by 7 the next morning - no
>garage works those hours!

Yes, I must agree with this, there is more experience here than there is at the ....


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