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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 25 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 259

In This Issue:
Re: BTW Headlights  Wiring
Dana 60 front axle
Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize
Re: 460 questions  questions abt questions
For sale
Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize
Re: Dana 60 front axle
Re: Oil in water
Re: 460 questions
Re: Dana 60 front axle
about the opening temperature of thermostats...
doors for 61-66/large trucks
Re: Dana 60 front axle
To: Dawn
Re: doors for 61-66/large trucks
Re: Dual Exhaust
Re: about the opening temperature of thermostats...
Fall Carlisle
Re: Dana 60 front axle COST
How to tell a d60 front end???
Re: How to tell a d60 front end???

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: BTW Headlights  Wiring
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:26:21 -0700

The wires run under the frame to the rear lights but the head lights are all
in the bundle up front under the hood.  They should actually be right on top
of the inner fender on the driver side and may run through the front
radiator support to the passenger side or a separate bundle from the fire
wall.  To isolate the problem you may have to unwrap the bundles and check
for corrosion under the insulation.  Look for green spots on the insulation
which are an indication of oxidized copper and may indicate a break in the
wire hidden by the insulation.  This is very common on old trucks.

For the head lights the most common problem is a corroded plug at the bulb
and for the tail lights the ground wire may be broken (near the socket) or
the socket may be too corroded to get a good ground.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Is there an easy way to get to the headlight wires.  I have one working
headlight and no other lights work on my F250. . . The wires come out of the
headlight area and immediately go into the body of the side panels and I
never see them again until I'm looking at the switch in the cab.



------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Dana 60 front axle
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:30:37 -0400

Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil spring
suspension?
I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco, but if I'd have to fabricate the axle
so it would accept coils (or go the the other way and convert the
suspsension to leaves) I'd just end my search now.

Thanks,

-bob-


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:28:07 -0700

Grease is always better than oil for long term protection.  There are soap
based greases and water proof greases though so this will matter.  Wheel
bearing grease is usually pretty impervious to water.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Ok, So is the green can of all purpose grease that I bought to put on the
> wheel bearing better than my WD-40?  Its definitely thicker and


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:32:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil in water
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> beleive it or not in the last few months i have saw 3 fellas install their
> fans BACKWARDS so they dont pull the air have you checked to be sure of this]
> gordon

This is a very good point. I know this wasn't directed at me specifically,
Gordon, but I know mine is on correctly. It just doesn't pull enough air at
low speeds. I can idle up the engine or turn off the air and everything is
fine heat wise.

-- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-) 1979
F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 460 questions  questions abt questions
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:34:25 -0700

Dawn, get the book by Tom Monroe on rebuilding your Ford Big block Engines.
It's an "HP" book sold at many parts stores and book stores.  This will help
you understand all you need to know about your engine in easy to understand
terms.  If you assimilate the contents of this book you will be as good as
the rest of us in this topic :-)

From your questions, you need more info than we can offer in this forum.
Get the book and then ask questions as they come up.  You will be much
better served this way.  We can answer all your questions but it will be a
long, drawn out affair, the book will make it much easier for you to
understand since it has the pictures to go along with the discussion.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Questions about his questions
> please see below and I'm not being difficult I'm an admitted ignorant fool
> so I'm asking. . . only way to understand right?



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: For sale
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:35:42 -0500


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This ought to interest someone on the West Coast:::
>>
                 Contents =20
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          Home=20
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          Parts, Tires, Access. & Serv.=20
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          Price Checker=20
          Auctions/Events=20
          Car Links=20
          User Survey

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                 Dealers =20
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          Sign Up Now!=20
          Demo=20
            Login
            Password


            =20
           Forgot your password? Click here.
         =20
         =20
      Ad Details =20
         =20
                 =20
                 Click Image for a larger Version
                 Photo 1
               =20
         =20
                          =20
         =20
         =20
           Details Location: Granite Falls, WA   =20
         =20
                 a.. Manufacturer
                Ford a.. Model
                F250=20
                 a.. Year
                1975 a.. Price
                $4,500.00=20
                 a.. Mileage
                98000 a.. Engine
                360=20
                 a.. Drivetrain
                4WD=20

                       Optional Features Included on this Vehicle:
                     =20
                       a.. AM Only
                      a.. Towing Package
                     =20
               =20
                    =20

                    =20
         =20
         =20
           Description:  =20
         =20
         =20
           1975 Ford F250, Factory Hi-Boy, original owner, less then =
100,000 miles. Runs great. Tow pkg. and 3 gas tanks. Includes Warn winch =
and 8' cab over camper. Excellent shape. Death forces sale.  =20
         =20
            Contact Number:    (425) 356-5109=20
         =20
   =20


I sure hope this isn't a No No to the list.  Looks awfully good not to =
be able to post.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:50:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Torque ratings
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

>
>    I was looking though my 2nd Edition Pocket Reference, authored by Thomas
> J. Glover. I noticed a reference to the torque rating of bolts and
> remembered the thread a while back on lug nuts. It shows a couple different
> sizes. For example, if a 1/2 inch, 13 thread/inch bolt has a torque rating
> of 121 ft/pounds no lube, its rating will drop 31% to 83 ft/pd. if it's
> coated with SAE 40. 49% to 62 ft/pd if coated with graphite and oil. The
> book shows a few different lubricants with the corresponding ratings.
>    Around here, I've always seen the tire stores torque the lug nuts on dry
> and that's the way I've always done it, too. But then, we don't have a
> problem with rust here.
>    Over the years, I've found myself wire brushing and lubing old fasteners
> more and more before I put them back on.  And I've stretched/striped a few,
> too. Now I know why. Think I'll go a bit lighter on the torque with lubed
> nuts/bolts and not worry about it.
>    Wonder if it's OK to sand blast them? (Just kidding...;)

Has anyone tried putting some type of sealer or lube on the threads that
stick out after the nut is on? The moisture has to go inside the nut from
the outside. So if you torqued the nut dry, then sealed the outside (and I
guess you would need to do the same to the inside) wouldn't that preserve
your torque rating and prevent rust? Every torque rating I have seen had a
footnote that said "For clean, dry threads."

I don't have the problem either, just looking for possibilities.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:55:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Ok, So is the green can of all purpose grease that I bought to put on the
> wheel bearing better than my WD-40?  Its definitely thicker and gooier ( I
> know not a word) and it took forever to get it off my hands and from under
> my nails.
>
> Dawn Chere

Actually, you shouldn't put all purpose grease on wheel bearings. You should
get wheel bearing grease. It will not fail under pressure stress like all
purpose will. All purpose is for your steering linkage. All purpose is
sometimes called chassis grease, too.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:58:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Help w/ F350
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Two part question here, A.-if it is the
> heater core how hard is it to change??? B.- what else might be the culprit.
> Thanks in advance for
> the help.

Paul,

check the heater control valve first.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:03:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize

In a message dated 9/25/00 8:32:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, gpeters3 lni.net
writes:

<< Wheel
bearing grease is usually pretty impervious to water. >>

I use Marine grade wheel bearing grease.  Its specifically designed to
prevent water contamination.  Not that Id leave em wet, but that lil bit of
extra protection seems worth it.  We dont get much water out here in Vegas,
but when it rains for any decent amount of time, you can bet on either
waiting a long time, or practicing your docking skills with your truck...  :)

Darrell & Tweety (who incidentally is water proof to 4' )

------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Dana 60 front axle
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:21:02 -0700

You can cut the C bushing mounts off of the 44 housing and weld them onto
the 60.  Or you can get one custom built through Dynatrac.  I think a high
pinion 60 with disc brakes runs about $3500.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is a handful of warm deer guts
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 8:30 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Dana 60 front axle


> Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil
spring
> suspension?
> I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco, but if I'd have to fabricate the
axle
> so it would accept coils (or go the the other way and convert the
> suspsension to leaves) I'd just end my search now.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -bob-
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Oil in water
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:16:15 -0400

This is a very good point. I know this wasn't directed at me specifically,
> Gordon, but I know mine is on correctly. It just doesn't pull enough air
at
> low speeds. I can idle up the engine or turn off the air and everything is
> fine heat wise.
================================================
beleive it or not these guys all knew better than that but done it anyways
and i still havent figured out how or why
just thought i would ask tho if it had been checked sounds like maybe the
radiator is getting to need work then
i once bought a brand new radiator and still had overheat troubles for a few
years and done evrything imaginable then decided what the heck ordered
another new one from MODINE turned out its tubes were near twice the size of
the one i had gotten before after installing it no more problems you would
think these would all be a standard size for the tubes but they are not tho
for some reason
gordon




------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: 460 questions
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:23:06 -0700

Why would you need shorter push rods????

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Beyer [mailto:bbeyer99 home.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 3:41 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 460 questions


Yes you can run a cam with more lift but you may need to get shorter
pushrods.

Engines designed to run EGR may tend to ping if run without it.

Check the manifold manufacturer's recommendations on which type of gasket to
use. I used the valley pan on mine even when I put on an Edelbrock
Performer.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Hutson" <tx4wheeler cs.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 3:12 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 460 questions


> Can a camshaft with more lift be installed in a 460 that has
non-adjustable
> rocker arms without converting to adjustable rockers?
>
> EGR and Non-EGR aftermarket intake manifolds... can anyone elaborate on
> these.  What will happen if you run a non-egr on an engine that should
have
> a egr version?
>
> When using an aftermarket intake manifold, do you still need the valley
pan
> gasket or can you just use regular intake manifold gaskets?
>



=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: Dana 60 front axle
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:32:17 -0700

Nope...Your not gonna find a D60 with the C bushing mounts like the half ton
Ford D44.  It isn't all that hard to grind the mounts off your D44 and then
reweld them to your D60...You will have to ream out the c mounts to fit the
larger diameter D60 axle tubes.

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx home.com]
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 8:31 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Dana 60 front axle


Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil spring
suspension?
I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco, but if I'd have to fabricate the axle
so it would accept coils (or go the the other way and convert the
suspsension to leaves) I'd just end my search now.

Thanks,

-bob-

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: about the opening temperature of thermostats...
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:48:35 -0500


I'm not sure how true this is, but according to Edelbrock a 180 degree thermostat will actually start to open at about 190 or so when under 13-15 pounds of pressure.

They make some kind of high performance thermostat that is supposed to be more accurate. I got mine from Summit Racing. I forget what the exact name is, I can look it up later. I have the 180 degree model, and I have not had any cooling problems at all with my (built?) 390. Completely stock cooling system except for that thermostat. My temp never goes above 190 in normal driving, and the highest it has ever been on a hot day is 210. I have a new Autometer gauge and sending unit, so I know those temps are accurate.


---Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:56:50 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: doors for 61-66/large trucks

group

I found a 63 F-Unkown(larger type truck then the f-series)in a local
salvage yard that has a perfect pass side door and a complete chrome
grill with headlight doors..
Will these parts fit the 61-66 F-series .....Anything else
interchangeable from the larger
trucks??
Joe


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:03:29 -0700
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Dana 60 front axle

>Nope...Your not gonna find a D60 with the C bushing mounts like the half ton
>Ford D44.  It isn't all that hard to grind the mounts off your D44 and then
>reweld them to your D60...You will have to ream out the c mounts to fit the
>larger diameter D60 axle tubes.
>
>Josh
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx home.com]
>
>
>Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil spring
>suspension?
>I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco,

I was running around the web looking for suspension parts  a while
back and some place I stopped at(don't remember which one now, maybe
jamesduff?) and they were selling the C-mounts for $60.  The are the
earlier 2 piece weld on mounts not the complete cast pieces like the
77-79 axles.  The whole process doesn't look that hard.  Remove all
the old brackets off the D60, grind down the C mounts, position to
taste and weld on(without warping the housing that is).

I would love to try this mod if only I could find a D60 that didn't
cost more than a complete truck.
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: To: Dawn
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:54:24 -0400


Dawn, I would suggest that you go to the library and borrow books on auto mechanics basics and Ford shop manuals for the year or years range of your truck. The basic books will explain the way engines work and systems like brakes and get you started on "labels" for parts and procedures. Read lots of magazines and self-help booklets (some at auto stores) to help in repairs. The Ford specific books will show pictures for your models. A Chilton or Haynes (best) book at Auto-Zone or eleswhere will cover several years of Ford trucks. Getting deep into a project w/out knowing things can be dangerous to yourself and others and if things
go bad, can be VERY discouraging and a waste of time and money. Perhaps another running vehicle would be the way to go if needed now and rebuild truck as you can at slower pace. Get Books, and more books first.
         Just my suggestions on threads I've seen here,        "G"


------------------------------

From: Natp244 cs.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:04:26 EDT
Subject: Re: doors for 61-66/large trucks

In a message dated 9/25/00 11:57:41 AM Central Daylight Time, shoman p3.net
writes:

<< I found a 63 F-Unkown(larger type truck then the f-series)in a local
salvage yard that has a perfect pass side door and a complete chrome
grill with headlight doors..
Will these parts fit the 61-66 F-series .....Anything else
interchangeable from the larger
trucks?? >>

I'm sorry I can't give you specific years and model numbers which will
interchange, but I have found that a LOT of trucks used the same doors.  For
instance, the early 60's T-750 used the same doors as the F-100 (probably
others from the t-series as well).  I'm guessing that the F-series doors were
pretty much the same up through the 500 or 600  series, but the best way
might be to get out a tape measure and do some comparing.  I have found that
in MOST cases, if it looks like it is the same, it is.  Ford was kind enough
to carry over many of the same parts into other truck series.

If you are concerned with being completely original, I have found a slight
difference in doors between the 61-64 and 65,66 F-100's.  The difference is
very insignificant- a couple of extra indentations on the inside of the 65/66
doors.  I only mention this so that if it matters you will know to look for
it.

As far as the grille, I checked my parts manual and they appear to be
interchangeble as follows:
61/62- F-100-600
63-66 F-100-750
Of course, the styles changed through the years and I'm guessing that they
are interchangeable (as far as appearance is concerned) within the same year
only.

I tried to verify the doors with the parts manual as well, but this is a new
thing for me and I'm still learing to use it  :)


Hope this helps.  I'm sure someone on this list will have more specific
information to share.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 13:21:44 -0500
Subject: time error
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

I just discovered that my system clock was set to February 2, 2036. I
apologize if this error caused any problems with your system. I still don't
know how it happened, but I think my Palm had something to do with it.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 17:35:16 GMT
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust

>Hello list, Can anyone give me some insight into dual exhausts on a '79 f150
4x4 351M 4sp dual tanks. I want to keep my stock manifolds for now. Is there
anyway to run the exhaust down both sides or would I have to run both down the
ditch side. If I do then would it better to exit both on the same side or run
another pipe over at the back end.

I think it was John that came up with the idea of running the ditch side bank
of cylinders over across to the centerline side so that the pipes will actually
be the same length since the centerline side has to go to ditch side initially,
it should be the same in the end (scary huh ? :)

>If I ran a crossover pipe would this make it not matter.

I would run a crossover, but it won't have much effect (if any) on the pipe
lengths effect on things ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 17:36:22 GMT
Subject: Re: about the opening temperature of thermostats...

>They make some kind of high performance thermostat that is supposed to be more
accurate. I got mine from Summit Racing. I forget what the exact name is, I
can look it up later. I have the 180 degree model, and I have not had any cooling
problems at all with my (built?) 390. Completely stock cooling system except
for that thermostat. My temp never goes above 190 in normal driving, and the
highest it has ever been on a hot day is 210.


Robert Shaw ?  You can get them from AutoZone for about half the price Summit
has on them ... I'm runnin the same thing in mine, no problems with it, and
similar temps.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:13:11 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: Fall Carlisle

Anybody attending Fall Carlisle this weeekend????
Joe


------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: Dana 60 front axle COST
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:30:41 -0400

Yeah, that's my other dilemma in this matter...  To purchase a D60, and then
most likely have to rebuild it, is looking to be around $1500 OR MORE!  It
would be nice though...

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Don Grossman
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:03 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Dana 60 front axle


>Nope...Your not gonna find a D60 with the C bushing mounts like the half
ton
>Ford D44.  It isn't all that hard to grind the mounts off your D44 and then
>reweld them to your D60...You will have to ream out the c mounts to fit the
>larger diameter D60 axle tubes.
>
>Josh
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx home.com]
>
>
>Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil
spring
>suspension?
>I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco,

I was running around the web looking for suspension parts  a while
back and some place I stopped at(don't remember which one now, maybe
jamesduff?) and they were selling the C-mounts for $60.  The are the
earlier 2 piece weld on mounts not the complete cast pieces like the
77-79 axles.  The whole process doesn't look that hard.  Remove all
the old brackets off the D60, grind down the C mounts, position to
taste and weld on(without warping the housing that is).

I would love to try this mod if only I could find a D60 that didn't
cost more than a complete truck.
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:38:20 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: How to tell a d60 front end???

How does on tell a d60 front end???I see a bunch of f-250's in the yards and
would like to know
Joe

Bob wrote:

> Yeah, that's my other dilemma in this matter...  To purchase a D60, and then
> most likely have to rebuild it, is looking to be around $1500 OR MORE!  It
> would be nice though...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Don Grossman
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:03 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Dana 60 front axle
>
> >Nope...Your not gonna find a D60 with the C bushing mounts like the half
> ton
> >Ford D44.  It isn't all that hard to grind the mounts off your D44 and then
> >reweld them to your D60...You will have to ream out the c mounts to fit the
> >larger diameter D60 axle tubes.
> >
> >Josh
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx home.com]
> >
> >
> >Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil
> spring
> >suspension?
> >I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco,
>
> I was running around the web looking for suspension parts  a while
> back and some place I stopped at(don't remember which one now, maybe
> jamesduff?) and they were selling the C-mounts for $60.  The are the
> earlier 2 piece weld on mounts not the complete cast pieces like the
> 77-79 axles.  The whole process doesn't look that hard.  Remove all
> the old brackets off the D60, grind down the C mounts, position to
> taste and weld on(without warping the housing that is).
>
> I would love to try this mod if only I could find a D60 that didn't
> cost more than a complete truck.
> --
> Don Grossman
> duckdon mac.com
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: How to tell a d60 front end???
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:42:10 -0700

D60's have kingpins instead of ball joints like the D44 has...This alone
doesn't mean it has to be a D60 but it is a pretty quick check..If it does
not have kingpins it is deffinetly not a D60

The D60 will also have 60 cast into the center section...The D44 will have
44 cast into the center section.

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe [mailto:shoman p3.net]
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 12:38 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] How to tell a d60 front end???


How does on tell a d60 front end???I see a bunch of f-250's in the yards and
would like to know
Joe

Bob wrote:

> Yeah, that's my other dilemma in this matter...  To purchase a D60, and
then
> most likely have to rebuild it, is looking to be around $1500 OR MORE!  It
> would be nice though...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Don Grossman
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:03 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Dana 60 front axle
>
> >Nope...Your not gonna find a D60 with the C bushing mounts like the half
> ton
> >Ford D44.  It isn't all that hard to grind the mounts off your D44 and
then
> >reweld them to your D60...You will have to ream out the c mounts to fit
the
> >larger diameter D60 axle tubes.
> >
> >Josh
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx home.com]
> >
> >
> >Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil
> spring
> >suspension?
> >I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco,
>
> I was running around the web looking for suspension parts  a while
> back and some place I stopped at(don't remember which one now, maybe
> jamesduff?) and they were selling the C-mounts for $60.  The are the
> earlier 2 piece weld on mounts not the complete cast pieces like the
> 77-79 axles.  The whole process doesn't look that hard.  Remove all
> the old brackets off the D60, grind down the C mounts, position to
> taste and weld on(without warping the housing that is).
>
> I would love to try this mod if only I could find a D60 that didn't
> cost more than a complete truck.
> --
> Don Grossman
> duckdon....


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