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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:45:36 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:45:36 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: 61-79-list digest users <listar Reply-to: 61-79-list Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #259 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Mon, 25 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 259 In This Issue: Re: BTW Headlights Wiring Dana 60 front axle Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize Re: 460 questions questions abt questions For sale Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize Re: Dana 60 front axle Re: Oil in water Re: 460 questions Re: Dana 60 front axle about the opening temperature of thermostats... doors for 61-66/large trucks Re: Dana 60 front axle To: Dawn Re: doors for 61-66/large trucks Re: Dual Exhaust Re: about the opening temperature of thermostats... Fall Carlisle Re: Dana 60 front axle COST How to tell a d60 front end??? Re: How to tell a d60 front end??? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Gary" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: BTW Headlights Wiring Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:26:21 -0700 The wires run under the frame to the rear lights but the head lights are all in the bundle up front under the hood. They should actually be right on top of the inner fender on the driver side and may run through the front radiator support to the passenger side or a separate bundle from the fire wall. To isolate the problem you may have to unwrap the bundles and check for corrosion under the insulation. Look for green spots on the insulation which are an indication of oxidized copper and may indicate a break in the wire hidden by the insulation. This is very common on old trucks. For the head lights the most common problem is a corroded plug at the bulb and for the tail lights the ground wire may be broken (near the socket) or the socket may be too corroded to get a good ground. Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > Is there an easy way to get to the headlight wires. I have one working headlight and no other lights work on my F250. . . The wires come out of the headlight area and immediately go into the body of the side panels and I never see them again until I'm looking at the switch in the cab. ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx Subject: Dana 60 front axle Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:30:37 -0400 Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil spring suspension? I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco, but if I'd have to fabricate the axle so it would accept coils (or go the the other way and convert the suspsension to leaves) I'd just end my search now. Thanks, -bob- ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:28:07 -0700 Grease is always better than oil for long term protection. There are soap based greases and water proof greases though so this will matter. Wheel bearing grease is usually pretty impervious to water. Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > Ok, So is the green can of all purpose grease that I bought to put on the > wheel bearing better than my WD-40? Its definitely thicker and ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:32:43 -0500 Subject: Re: Oil in water From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > beleive it or not in the last few months i have saw 3 fellas install their > fans BACKWARDS so they dont pull the air have you checked to be sure of this] > gordon This is a very good point. I know this wasn't directed at me specifically, Gordon, but I know mine is on correctly. It just doesn't pull enough air at low speeds. I can idle up the engine or turn off the air and everything is fine heat wise. -- John jlagrone F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: 460 questions questions abt questions Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:34:25 -0700 Dawn, get the book by Tom Monroe on rebuilding your Ford Big block Engines. It's an "HP" book sold at many parts stores and book stores. This will help you understand all you need to know about your engine in easy to understand terms. If you assimilate the contents of this book you will be as good as the rest of us in this topic :-) From your questions, you need more info than we can offer in this forum. Get the book and then ask questions as they come up. You will be much better served this way. We can answer all your questions but it will be a long, drawn out affair, the book will make it much easier for you to understand since it has the pictures to go along with the discussion. Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > Questions about his questions > please see below and I'm not being difficult I'm an admitted ignorant fool > so I'm asking. . . only way to understand right? ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: For sale Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:35:42 -0500 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This ought to interest someone on the West Coast::: >> Contents =20 =20 =20 Home=20 Search=20 Place An Ad=20 modify your ad=20 Find a Dealer=20 Help =20 Resources =20 =20 =20 Parts, Tires, Access. & Serv.=20 Finance=20 Vehicle Transport=20 Price Checker=20 Auctions/Events=20 Car Links=20 User Survey =20 Dealers =20 =20 =20 Sign Up Now!=20 Demo=20 Login Password =20 Forgot your password? Click here. =20 =20 Ad Details =20 =20 =20 Click Image for a larger Version Photo 1 =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 Details Location: Granite Falls, WA =20 =20 a.. Manufacturer Ford a.. Model F250=20 a.. Year 1975 a.. Price $4,500.00=20 a.. Mileage 98000 a.. Engine 360=20 a.. Drivetrain 4WD=20 Optional Features Included on this Vehicle: =20 a.. AM Only a.. Towing Package =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 Description: =20 =20 =20 1975 Ford F250, Factory Hi-Boy, original owner, less then = 100,000 miles. Runs great. Tow pkg. and 3 gas tanks. Includes Warn winch = and 8' cab over camper. Excellent shape. Death forces sale. =20 =20 Contact Number: (425) 356-5109=20 =20 =20 I sure hope this isn't a No No to the list. Looks awfully good not to = be able to post. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: image/gif -- File: shim.gif -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: image/gif -- File: cctol_headerfade4.gif -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: image/gif -- File: cctol_square.gif -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: image/gif -- File: arrow.gif -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: application/octet-stream -- File: 0925006917757 -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: image/gif -- File: cctol_headerfade2.gif -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: image/jpeg -- File: 4071512_1.jpg -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: application/octet-stream -- File: 0925002273574 -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: application/octet-stream -- File: 0925005534165 -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: application/octet-stream -- File: 0925001986428 -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: application/octet-stream -- File: 0925008568909 -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: application/octet-stream -- File: 0925003119901 -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: image/gif -- File: shim.gif ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:50:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Torque ratings From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > > I was looking though my 2nd Edition Pocket Reference, authored by Thomas > J. Glover. I noticed a reference to the torque rating of bolts and > remembered the thread a while back on lug nuts. It shows a couple different > sizes. For example, if a 1/2 inch, 13 thread/inch bolt has a torque rating > of 121 ft/pounds no lube, its rating will drop 31% to 83 ft/pd. if it's > coated with SAE 40. 49% to 62 ft/pd if coated with graphite and oil. The > book shows a few different lubricants with the corresponding ratings. > Around here, I've always seen the tire stores torque the lug nuts on dry > and that's the way I've always done it, too. But then, we don't have a > problem with rust here. > Over the years, I've found myself wire brushing and lubing old fasteners > more and more before I put them back on. And I've stretched/striped a few, > too. Now I know why. Think I'll go a bit lighter on the torque with lubed > nuts/bolts and not worry about it. > Wonder if it's OK to sand blast them? (Just kidding...;) Has anyone tried putting some type of sealer or lube on the threads that stick out after the nut is on? The moisture has to go inside the nut from the outside. So if you torqued the nut dry, then sealed the outside (and I guess you would need to do the same to the inside) wouldn't that preserve your torque rating and prevent rust? Every torque rating I have seen had a footnote that said "For clean, dry threads." I don't have the problem either, just looking for possibilities. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:55:52 -0500 Subject: Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > Ok, So is the green can of all purpose grease that I bought to put on the > wheel bearing better than my WD-40? Its definitely thicker and gooier ( I > know not a word) and it took forever to get it off my hands and from under > my nails. > > Dawn Chere Actually, you shouldn't put all purpose grease on wheel bearings. You should get wheel bearing grease. It will not fail under pressure stress like all purpose will. All purpose is for your steering linkage. All purpose is sometimes called chassis grease, too. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:58:08 -0500 Subject: Re: Help w/ F350 From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > Two part question here, A.-if it is the > heater core how hard is it to change??? B.- what else might be the culprit. > Thanks in advance for > the help. Paul, check the heater control valve first. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:03:54 EDT Subject: Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize In a message dated 9/25/00 8:32:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, gpeters3 writes: << Wheel bearing grease is usually pretty impervious to water. >> I use Marine grade wheel bearing grease. Its specifically designed to prevent water contamination. Not that Id leave em wet, but that lil bit of extra protection seems worth it. We dont get much water out here in Vegas, but when it rains for any decent amount of time, you can bet on either waiting a long time, or practicing your docking skills with your truck... :) Darrell & Tweety (who incidentally is water proof to 4' ) ------------------------------ From: "Jason Derra" <derrar Subject: Re: Dana 60 front axle Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:21:02 -0700 You can cut the C bushing mounts off of the 44 housing and weld them onto the 60. Or you can get one custom built through Dynatrac. I think a high pinion 60 with disc brakes runs about $3500. Jason '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435 '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD Happiness is a handful of warm deer guts ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" <xavetarx To: <61-79-list Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 8:30 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Dana 60 front axle > Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil spring > suspension? > I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco, but if I'd have to fabricate the axle > so it would accept coils (or go the the other way and convert the > suspsension to leaves) I'd just end my search now. > > Thanks, > > -bob- > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > > ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: Re: Oil in water Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:16:15 -0400 This is a very good point. I know this wasn't directed at me specifically, > Gordon, but I know mine is on correctly. It just doesn't pull enough air at > low speeds. I can idle up the engine or turn off the air and everything is > fine heat wise. ================================================ beleive it or not these guys all knew better than that but done it anyways and i still havent figured out how or why just thought i would ask tho if it had been checked sounds like maybe the radiator is getting to need work then i once bought a brand new radiator and still had overheat troubles for a few years and done evrything imaginable then decided what the heck ordered another new one from MODINE turned out its tubes were near twice the size of the one i had gotten before after installing it no more problems you would think these would all be a standard size for the tubes but they are not tho for some reason gordon ------------------------------ From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols Subject: Re: 460 questions Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:23:06 -0700 Why would you need shorter push rods???? Josh -----Original Message----- From: Bill Beyer [mailto:bbeyer99 Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 3:41 PM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 460 questions Yes you can run a cam with more lift but you may need to get shorter pushrods. Engines designed to run EGR may tend to ping if run without it. Check the manifold manufacturer's recommendations on which type of gasket to use. I used the valley pan on mine even when I put on an Edelbrock Performer. "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob Hutson" <tx4wheeler To: <61-79-list Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 3:12 PM Subject: [61-79-list] 460 questions > Can a camshaft with more lift be installed in a 460 that has non-adjustable > rocker arms without converting to adjustable rockers? > > EGR and Non-EGR aftermarket intake manifolds... can anyone elaborate on > these. What will happen if you run a non-egr on an engine that should have > a egr version? > > When using an aftermarket intake manifold, do you still need the valley pan > gasket or can you just use regular intake manifold gaskets? > ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols Subject: Re: Dana 60 front axle Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:32:17 -0700 Nope...Your not gonna find a D60 with the C bushing mounts like the half ton Ford D44. It isn't all that hard to grind the mounts off your D44 and then reweld them to your D60...You will have to ream out the c mounts to fit the larger diameter D60 axle tubes. Josh -----Original Message----- From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 8:31 AM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] Dana 60 front axle Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil spring suspension? I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco, but if I'd have to fabricate the axle so it would accept coils (or go the the other way and convert the suspsension to leaves) I'd just end my search now. Thanks, -bob- ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson Subject: about the opening temperature of thermostats... Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:48:35 -0500 I'm not sure how true this is, but according to Edelbrock a 180 degree thermostat will actually start to open at about 190 or so when under 13-15 pounds of pressure. They make some kind of high performance thermostat that is supposed to be more accurate. I got mine from Summit Racing. I forget what the exact name is, I can look it up later. I have the 180 degree model, and I have not had any cooling problems at all with my (built?) 390. Completely stock cooling system except for that thermostat. My temp never goes above 190 in normal driving, and the highest it has ever been on a hot day is 210. I have a new Autometer gauge and sending unit, so I know those temps are accurate. ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:56:50 -0400 From: Joe <shoman Subject: doors for 61-66/large trucks group I found a 63 F-Unkown(larger type truck then the f-series)in a local salvage yard that has a perfect pass side door and a complete chrome grill with headlight doors.. Will these parts fit the 61-66 F-series .....Anything else interchangeable from the larger trucks?? Joe ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:03:29 -0700 From: Don Grossman <duckdon Subject: Re: Dana 60 front axle >Nope...Your not gonna find a D60 with the C bushing mounts like the half ton >Ford D44. It isn't all that hard to grind the mounts off your D44 and then >reweld them to your D60...You will have to ream out the c mounts to fit the >larger diameter D60 axle tubes. > >Josh > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx > > >Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil spring >suspension? >I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco, I was running around the web looking for suspension parts a while back and some place I stopped at(don't remember which one now, maybe jamesduff?) and they were selling the C-mounts for $60. The are the earlier 2 piece weld on mounts not the complete cast pieces like the 77-79 axles. The whole process doesn't look that hard. Remove all the old brackets off the D60, grind down the C mounts, position to taste and weld on(without warping the housing that is). I would love to try this mod if only I could find a D60 that didn't cost more than a complete truck. -- Don Grossman duckdon ------------------------------ From: "Gary Perry" <glperry Subject: To: Dawn Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:54:24 -0400 Dawn, I would suggest that you go to the library and borrow books on auto mechanics basics and Ford shop manuals for the year or years range of your truck. The basic books will explain the way engines work and systems like brakes and get you started on "labels" for parts and procedures. Read lots of magazines and self-help booklets (some at auto stores) to help in repairs. The Ford specific books will show pictures for your models. A Chilton or Haynes (best) book at Auto-Zone or eleswhere will cover several years of Ford trucks. Getting deep into a project w/out knowing things can be dangerous to yourself and others and if things go bad, can be VERY discouraging and a waste of time and money. Perhaps another running vehicle would be the way to go if needed now and rebuild truck as you can at slower pace. Get Books, and more books first. Just my suggestions on threads I've seen here, "G" ------------------------------ From: Natp244 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:04:26 EDT Subject: Re: doors for 61-66/large trucks In a message dated 9/25/00 11:57:41 AM Central Daylight Time, shoman writes: << I found a 63 F-Unkown(larger type truck then the f-series)in a local salvage yard that has a perfect pass side door and a complete chrome grill with headlight doors.. Will these parts fit the 61-66 F-series .....Anything else interchangeable from the larger trucks?? >> I'm sorry I can't give you specific years and model numbers which will interchange, but I have found that a LOT of trucks used the same doors. For instance, the early 60's T-750 used the same doors as the F-100 (probably others from the t-series as well). I'm guessing that the F-series doors were pretty much the same up through the 500 or 600 series, but the best way might be to get out a tape measure and do some comparing. I have found that in MOST cases, if it looks like it is the same, it is. Ford was kind enough to carry over many of the same parts into other truck series. If you are concerned with being completely original, I have found a slight difference in doors between the 61-64 and 65,66 F-100's. The difference is very insignificant- a couple of extra indentations on the inside of the 65/66 doors. I only mention this so that if it matters you will know to look for it. As far as the grille, I checked my parts manual and they appear to be interchangeble as follows: 61/62- F-100-600 63-66 F-100-750 Of course, the styles changed through the years and I'm guessing that they are interchangeable (as far as appearance is concerned) within the same year only. I tried to verify the doors with the parts manual as well, but this is a new thing for me and I'm still learing to use it :) Hope this helps. I'm sure someone on this list will have more specific information to share. Nate ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 13:21:44 -0500 Subject: time error From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone I just discovered that my system clock was set to February 2, 2036. I apologize if this error caused any problems with your system. I still don't know how it happened, but I think my Palm had something to do with it. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 17:35:16 GMT Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust >Hello list, Can anyone give me some insight into dual exhausts on a '79 f150 4x4 351M 4sp dual tanks. I want to keep my stock manifolds for now. Is there anyway to run the exhaust down both sides or would I have to run both down the ditch side. If I do then would it better to exit both on the same side or run another pipe over at the back end. I think it was John that came up with the idea of running the ditch side bank of cylinders over across to the centerline side so that the pipes will actually be the same length since the centerline side has to go to ditch side initially, it should be the same in the end (scary huh ? :) >If I ran a crossover pipe would this make it not matter. I would run a crossover, but it won't have much effect (if any) on the pipe lengths effect on things ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 17:36:22 GMT Subject: Re: about the opening temperature of thermostats... >They make some kind of high performance thermostat that is supposed to be more accurate. I got mine from Summit Racing. I forget what the exact name is, I can look it up later. I have the 180 degree model, and I have not had any cooling problems at all with my (built?) 390. Completely stock cooling system except for that thermostat. My temp never goes above 190 in normal driving, and the highest it has ever been on a hot day is 210. Robert Shaw ? You can get them from AutoZone for about half the price Summit has on them ... I'm runnin the same thing in mine, no problems with it, and similar temps. Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:13:11 -0400 From: Joe <shoman Subject: Fall Carlisle Anybody attending Fall Carlisle this weeekend???? Joe ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx Subject: Re: Dana 60 front axle COST Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:30:41 -0400 Yeah, that's my other dilemma in this matter... To purchase a D60, and then most likely have to rebuild it, is looking to be around $1500 OR MORE! It would be nice though... -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce [mailto:61-79-list-bounce Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:03 PM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Dana 60 front axle >Nope...Your not gonna find a D60 with the C bushing mounts like the half ton >Ford D44. It isn't all that hard to grind the mounts off your D44 and then >reweld them to your D60...You will have to ream out the c mounts to fit the >larger diameter D60 axle tubes. > >Josh > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx > > >Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil spring >suspension? >I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco, I was running around the web looking for suspension parts a while back and some place I stopped at(don't remember which one now, maybe jamesduff?) and they were selling the C-mounts for $60. The are the earlier 2 piece weld on mounts not the complete cast pieces like the 77-79 axles. The whole process doesn't look that hard. Remove all the old brackets off the D60, grind down the C mounts, position to taste and weld on(without warping the housing that is). I would love to try this mod if only I could find a D60 that didn't cost more than a complete truck. -- Don Grossman duckdon ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:38:20 -0400 From: Joe <shoman Subject: How to tell a d60 front end??? How does on tell a d60 front end???I see a bunch of f-250's in the yards and would like to know Joe Bob wrote: > Yeah, that's my other dilemma in this matter... To purchase a D60, and then > most likely have to rebuild it, is looking to be around $1500 OR MORE! It > would be nice though... > > -----Original Message----- > From: 61-79-list-bounce > [mailto:61-79-list-bounce > Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:03 PM > To: 61-79-list > Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Dana 60 front axle > > >Nope...Your not gonna find a D60 with the C bushing mounts like the half > ton > >Ford D44. It isn't all that hard to grind the mounts off your D44 and then > >reweld them to your D60...You will have to ream out the c mounts to fit the > >larger diameter D60 axle tubes. > > > >Josh > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx > > > > > >Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil > spring > >suspension? > >I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco, > > I was running around the web looking for suspension parts a while > back and some place I stopped at(don't remember which one now, maybe > jamesduff?) and they were selling the C-mounts for $60. The are the > earlier 2 piece weld on mounts not the complete cast pieces like the > 77-79 axles. The whole process doesn't look that hard. Remove all > the old brackets off the D60, grind down the C mounts, position to > taste and weld on(without warping the housing that is). > > I would love to try this mod if only I could find a D60 that didn't > cost more than a complete truck. > -- > Don Grossman > duckdon > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols Subject: Re: How to tell a d60 front end??? Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:42:10 -0700 D60's have kingpins instead of ball joints like the D44 has...This alone doesn't mean it has to be a D60 but it is a pretty quick check..If it does not have kingpins it is deffinetly not a D60 The D60 will also have 60 cast into the center section...The D44 will have 44 cast into the center section. Josh -----Original Message----- From: Joe [mailto:shoman Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 12:38 PM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] How to tell a d60 front end??? How does on tell a d60 front end???I see a bunch of f-250's in the yards and would like to know Joe Bob wrote: > Yeah, that's my other dilemma in this matter... To purchase a D60, and then > most likely have to rebuild it, is looking to be around $1500 OR MORE! It > would be nice though... > > -----Original Message----- > From: 61-79-list-bounce > [mailto:61-79-list-bounce > Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:03 PM > To: 61-79-list > Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Dana 60 front axle > > >Nope...Your not gonna find a D60 with the C bushing mounts like the half > ton > >Ford D44. It isn't all that hard to grind the mounts off your D44 and then > >reweld them to your D60...You will have to ream out the c mounts to fit the > >larger diameter D60 axle tubes. > > > >Josh > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx > > > > > >Does anyone know if the Dana 60 front axle was ever set up for a coil > spring > >suspension? > >I'd "like" to put one on my 79 bronco, > > I was running around the web looking for suspension parts a while > back and some place I stopped at(don't remember which one now, maybe > jamesduff?) and they were selling the C-mounts for $60. The are the > earlier 2 piece weld on mounts not the complete cast pieces like the > 77-79 axles. The whole process doesn't look that hard. Remove all > the old brackets off the D60, grind down the C mounts, position to > taste and weld on(without warping the housing that is). > > I would love to try this mod if only I could find a D60 that didn't > cost more than a complete truck. > -- > Don Grossman > duckdon.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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