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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:27:01 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:27:01 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #258 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Sun, 24 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 258 In This Issue: Dual Exhaust Re: 460 engine Re: 460 engine Re: 460 questions questions abt questions Re: Deacon's view on Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil Re: 460 questions questions abt questions Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize Re: Discovery BTW Headlights Wiring Torque ratings Back Seat of F250 Extended I know its alittle early but Dual tanks which ones main? F250 Smokin 460 That Tom posted to Message Board Re: Dual tanks which ones main? Help w/ F350 T'stat flame wars Ford motors Customer Shorter pushrods? Re: Torque ratings Re: 460 engine, brakes Re: 460 engine axle ID... IDENTIFIED! Re: Help w/ F350 Re: F250 Smokin 460 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Phillips" <hosses kootenaycable.com>
Subject: Dual Exhaust Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 17:43:15 -0600 Hello list, Can anyone give me some insight into dual exhausts on a '79 f150 4x4 351M 4sp dual tanks. I want to keep my stock manifolds for now. Is there anyway to run the exhaust down both sides or would I have to run both down the ditch side. If I do then would it better to exit both on the same side or run another pipe over at the back end. It seems like this would make one pipe run a heck of a lot longer than the other. If I ran a crossover pipe would this make it not matter. Thanks. ------------------------------ From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: 460 engine Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 19:32:50 -0500 Dawn, if there was any moisture in the crankcase, it will make the oil look like that(milky). The old oil was full of contaminants and was darker. New oil, of course, is clean so you get a whitish tint when the oil is mixed with moisture. If the truck sat for awhile with no distributor and the hood open, it could be possible that some rain or snow blew into the distributor hole. When you changed the oil, did you notice any water draining out when the drain plug was loose enough to allow some fluid by? Is there any oil in the radiator? If so, this would indicate either a cracked block or head, or even a bad gasket somewhere. Have you done a compression or a leakdown test yet? If not, it would be a good idea to do so. I assume the truck is running now? How is the oil pressure? Keep us posted. Thanks, Jason Kendrick ------------------------------ From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: Re: 460 engine Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 18:03:42 -0700 Yep there was water draining but I left the oil plug off for a few hours so that it could all drain and evaporate out. Yeah, Tom did something with the electronics and it starts now. . . Course I have lots of pretty smoke coming out. Don't ask me if its white or blue I can't tell the difference, its smoke. But its not black <G>. Anyway I'm trying to find a compression tester cheap. I don't know about the oil pressure, the gages panel I got doesn't work so I have to take that back and/ or trace the wires. Still have other work to do on it including bleed the brakes. . . Once I got it running I put it in gear to check the tranny and then couldn't stop. . . It was an interesting feeling <G>. So I decided that I'd better check the brake fluid (one of those I assumed he had situations) no brake fluid there so I filled it up and now need the one man kit to bleed them. . . or wait till Saturday (Tom's busy all week). Anyway I really have to get this truck running I need to have it ready to go incase Tom does get the job in Colorado Springs. Well I will keep you all posted about the rest but if you hear of a not to expensive 460 let me know. Dawn Chere '78 F 100 (For Sale $500 obo) '78 F 250 XLT ----- Original Message ----- From: Jason and Kathy <kendrick mddc.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2000 5:32 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 460 engine > Dawn, if there was any moisture in the crankcase, it will make the oil > look like that(milky). The old oil was full of contaminants and was darker. > New oil, of course, is clean so you get a whitish tint when the oil is mixed > with moisture. If the truck sat for awhile with no distributor and the hood > open, it could be possible that some rain or snow blew into the distributor > hole. When you changed the oil, did you notice any water draining out when > the drain plug was loose enough to allow some fluid by? Is there any oil in > the radiator? If so, this would indicate either a cracked block or head, or > even a bad gasket somewhere. Have you done a compression or a leakdown test > yet? If not, it would be a good idea to do so. I assume the truck is running > now? How is the oil pressure? Keep us posted. Thanks, Jason Kendrick > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: Re: 460 questions questions abt questions Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 18:14:45 -0700 Questions about his questions please see below and I'm not being difficult I'm an admitted ignorant fool so I'm asking. . . only way to understand right? ----- Original Message ----- From: Rob Hutson <tx4wheeler cs.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 3:12 PM Subject: [61-79-list] 460 questions > Can a camshaft with more lift be installed in a 460 that has non-adjustable > rocker arms without converting to adjustable rockers? What does this mean in English? I know (I think) that the camshaft has to do with the pistons right? But where is the rocker arm? > > EGR and Non-EGR aftermarket intake manifolds... can anyone elaborate on > these. What will happen if you run a non-egr on an engine that should have > a egr version? What does EGR mean? > > When using an aftermarket intake manifold, do you still need the valley pan > gasket or can you just use regular intake manifold gaskets? > Are these the head gasket? Thanks for your answers to my childlike questions about these things. . . I promise I will learn. Dawn Chere '78 F 100 '78 F 250 XLT ------------------------------ From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: Re: Deacon's view on Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 18:24:16 -0700 I agree that I can answer We run regular oil in all our vehicles ( a mini van, a Shelby charger, a shadow, and both the trucks have regular/dino oil) but Tom's Porsche (and that's his choice) Dawn Chere ----- Original Message ----- From: Deacon <deconblu ford-trucks.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 11:20 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Deacon's view on Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil > I feel I've read enough on synthetic oil to convince me there is a > significant improvement with synthetic over dino oil. It's properties > allow cooler running engines and maintains it's viscosity without > braking down as with dino oil. The only warning I've seen is it's not > recommended for engine brake in. As far as, is it worth the added cost, > It's all up to the individual owner. We're not talking an astronomical > amount of money here. To say it's 5 times the price is deceiving as with > the extended miles before it needs changing. Most people that would use > synthetic oil, most likely wouldn't change their routine maintenance > schedule. They would more likely be using it because they want the best > for their vehicle. > In conclusion I'll say; if a person wants to use synthetic oil, > there is no arguing synthetic oil is better and they can spend their > money as they wish. If a person feels dino oil is better for them then > the same thing goes. The only thing we can all agree on, is the > importance of changing oil and filter. > > > Later! > > Deacon > > deconblu ford-trucks.com
> deconblu earthlink.net
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/ > > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: 460 questions questions abt questions Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 20:34:56 -0500 I know (I think) that the camshaft has to > do with the pistons right? But where is the rocker arm? The crank spins the cam, the cam pushes the lifters, the lifters push the push rods, and the push rods work the rocker arms. The rocker arms are the first thing you see when you take the valve cover off. > What does EGR mean? Exhaust gas recirculation. > Are these the head gasket? The valley pan is usually a steel sheild that is located under the intake manifold. It's purpose is to keep hot out off the bottom of the intake manifold. > Thanks for your answers to my questions about these things. . . I > promise I will learn. > > Dawn Chere > '78 F 100 > '78 F 250 XLT Anytime! Jason Kendrick ------------------------------ From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 18:46:00 -0700 Ok, So is the green can of all purpose grease that I bought to put on the wheel bearing better than my WD-40? Its definitely thicker and gooier ( I know not a word) and it took forever to get it off my hands and from under my nails. Dawn Chere ----- Original Message ----- From: Gary <gpeters3 lni.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 2:09 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize > I'm not sure how wd-40 repells water but I do know that it is not a good > lubricant/protectant for long duration applications. It's a handy thing to > have around when taking things apart but not as good as many other, special > purpose penetrating compounds (got to remember to look for some Kroils or > Penn). > > I haven't researched the wd-40 but understand that it is water based, > sorry if I led anyone to believe I am an authority on it. I use it all the > time but am aware of it's short comings :-) > > As many myths happen to appear, this one probably originated in some > military research paper. I know when I was in service they had a rule to > keep them dry. Military trucks get spot painted on a weekly basis and > wheels get removed fairly often so this is not much of a problem for them > but it has been proven that this was in error so is no longer taught AFAIK > (except perhaps in the military :-)) Most old timers still hang on to the > theory though I guess...... > > The grey anti-seize I use (Permatex brand) has a temp range up to 2000 > degrees and is recommended for steam applications as well as other things. > It is not soluable in water, is not easily washed off even with soap and > clings very tenaciously to any surface it's applied to so is probably the > best long term lubricant/protectant for threaded or tapered pin applications > you can get. I apply it to every threaded part I install on anything except > for electrical connections. It tends to insulate electrical connections so > you should use silicone grease in that application. > > Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, > 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > > > Well, I'm not a gentleman and I don't know what Anti-Seize is but won't > > WD-40 work. . . its what I use. You mean they always said your not > supposed > > to put something on to make it easier to put them on? good grief I can > > usually barely get lug nuts off > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 18:50:19 -0700 I don't know if this works but when I need something I go down and see Jake (he's the local Napa guy He knows me by name <G>) If he doesn't have it can't get it he comes up with great ideas to find things. Dawn Chere ----- Original Message ----- From: <SHill48337 aol.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 7:32 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Discovery > I took the "Q" from this list and fabricated a dip stick tube for the mid > sump oil pan on my 460 using a 3/8" brake line. It worked great until the > other day when I walked into a parts store and noticed a chrome tube and dip > stick for GM big block. It looked just like the one I made, except shinny, > had the guy behind the counter measure it and it was 21 inches long which is > the same as the one I made. Bought it and checked directly against the one I > made, it did not even need to be recalibrated. Oh, and it only cost $8.00, > screws right in and looks sharp. > > I have a question, where can one get a hose that connects the breather cap to > the air cleaner? I tried using heater hose but it is to heavy to make sharp > bends. Any help would be appreciated. > Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: BTW Headlights Wiring Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 18:57:27 -0700 Is there an easy way to get to the headlight wires. I have one working headlight and no other lights work on my F250. . . The wires come out of the headlight area and immediately go into the body of the side panels and I never see them again until I'm looking at the switch in the cab. (The schematics all look like Greek to me btw.) Dawn Chere ------------------------------ From: "Scott Jensen" <sjensensr worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Torque ratings Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 17:42:52 -0700 I was looking though my 2nd Edition Pocket Reference, authored by Thomas J. Glover. I noticed a reference to the torque rating of bolts and remembered the thread a while back on lug nuts. It shows a couple different sizes. For example, if a 1/2 inch, 13 thread/inch bolt has a torque rating of 121 ft/pounds no lube, its rating will drop 31% to 83 ft/pd. if it's coated with SAE 40. 49% to 62 ft/pd if coated with graphite and oil. The book shows a few different lubricants with the corresponding ratings. Around here, I've always seen the tire stores torque the lug nuts on dry and that's the way I've always done it, too. But then, we don't have a problem with rust here. Over the years, I've found myself wire brushing and lubing old fasteners more and more before I put them back on. And I've stretched/striped a few, too. Now I know why. Think I'll go a bit lighter on the torque with lubed nuts/bolts and not worry about it. Wonder if it's OK to sand blast them? (Just kidding...;) ------------------------------ From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: Back Seat of F250 Extended I know its alittle early but Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 22:46:14 -0700 Question I realize I need to get the thing running first. . .but we've been worried about the kids hitting their heads on the rearwindow of the cab in an accident or just horseplaying and throw back their heads. . . I'm open to suggestions on headrests or replacement of rear seats. . . would a front seat fit in the back? Or different seat backs on newer models? Dawn Chere '78 F 100 Straight 6 (For Sale $500 obo) '78 F 250 XLT Extended V-8 460 ------------------------------ From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: Dual tanks which ones main? Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 22:50:25 -0700 Ok while I'm asking questions that put the horse before the cart. . . . I finally found the switch to change tanks <G> its on the heating controls ; ) Anyway which tank is which Main and Aux ? Assuming they are stock how much gas will they hold each? Dawn Chere '78 F 100 Straight 6 (For Sale $500 obo) '78 F 250 XLT Extended V-8 460 ------------------------------ From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: F250 Smokin 460 That Tom posted to Message Board Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 22:57:15 -0700 I want your take on this: Also his real question is which one a rebuild on the one we have or a rebuilt? Realizing that my truck is in my neighbor's driveway (cause mine is full of other cars) and while I can change the oil on a nice day I wouldn't want to try to take the engine apart there (besides Tom's right I wouldn't want to try that by myself yet, think about the questions I had about Robs questions <G>) ======================================================== Original Message - "Smokin' 460" Posted by tom_in_oregon on 24-Sep-00 at 08:21 PM ........................................................ finally got my wife's new 1978 F250 Super Cab running after figuring out the electronic ignition (thanks everybody). After we got it fired up, it was blowing blue smoke (bad) at idle, and LOTS of white smoke when revving it up (VERY bad). Since it sat for who knows how long with the distributor removed before we got it, I was hoping that it was just a lot of condensation that got in the oil. When we changed the oil, a lot of water came out of the oilpan. We drained all of it out and refilled with new oil and the oil os milky again. Blown headgasket, right? Anyway, what's everyone's opinions on getting this fixed? We need the truck running good within a couple of weeks and I don't have the time or place to change the headgasket myself. My wife is hesitant to undertake that big of a project without my help, so we're considering either paying a mechanic to rebuild the engine or buying either a used 460 for around $400-$600 or a rebuilt 460 with an RV cam for around $120! 0. Which sounds like the best way to go? I don't want to spend too much money, but a rebuild on the 460 we have is going to cost more than a used engine, but with a used engine you don't know what you're getting exactly. There is a 30 day guarantee on the used engines, but that probably just covers their installation. Opinions? Thanks. Tom ======================================================== Reply Number 1 - "RE: Smokin' 460" Posted by trouble on 24-Sep-00 at 08:56 PM ........................................................ Tom i think i would change the oil a couple more time to be sure i got it cleaned out. Cheaper than a overhaul, then go from there ======================================================== Reply Number 2 - "RE: Smokin' 460" Posted by DAV1972 on 24-Sep-00 at 10:05 PM ........................................................ My opinion is: Change the oil one more time. Clean plugs or replace. If you still have water in your oil or if there are air bubbles in your radiator then I would be convinced that it is a head gasket. Observe the condition of the plugs to determine which side gasket is blown (usually just one side). If you are sure about the head gasket I would change it by myself. I can understand if you don't have the time but if you have a place to change the oil then you should have a place to change a head gasket. Head gaskets are not too difficult to replace and you can save a bundle. If you decide to do it yourself, find a friend to help you lift the head(s). You can borrow a torque wrench from Autozone for free. Total cost: about $50.00 - and about 4 or 5 hours (going slow and carefull) unless something unusual shows up. My 2 cents worth! ======================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 04:33:28 -0600 From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Dual tanks which ones main? The main should be the rear tank and side mounted tank aux. -- William (Tony) Whited 74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390 77 F150 Custom 460 El Paso, TX Semper Fi Dawn Chere wrote: > Ok while I'm asking questions that put the horse before the cart. . . . > > I finally found the switch to change tanks <G> its on the heating controls ; ) > > Anyway which tank is which Main and Aux ? > Assuming they are stock how much gas will they hold each? > > Dawn Chere > '78 F 100 Straight 6 (For Sale $500 obo) > '78 F 250 XLT Extended V-8 460 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 05:17:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul Rozell <prozell yahoo.com>
Subject: Help w/ F350 Hey all, I know this question concerns a truck outside our list but I am hoping someone on this list might have some insight. I have a friend with a 97 F350 diesel. He is having problems with the heating system in the truck and thinks it might be the heater core that needs to be replaced. The truck is in Oklahoma so really cold weather is not a problem. Two part question here, A.-if it is the heater core how hard is it to change??? B.- what else might be the culprit. Thanks in advance for the help. Thanks, Paul Rozell 65 F100 460 96 F150 SC __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: T'stat Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 08:46:35 -0500 Howard B. writes: >>When should a 180 degree thermostat start to open? I assume fully open by 180 deg. I wonder if a 160 deg would help any << Don;t think they are that precision, but as long as they are consistent through several cycles and near the advertised degrees. I would assume that it should be fully open
the advertised temp, but I sure don't think I'm an expert on this subject.. I've checked several in the past, and as long as they were close to the advertised temp in opening & closing I assumed it operated correctly if it would repeat for as many as 3 cycles. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: flame wars Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 08:54:32 -0500 Wish writes: >>(I'm just jokin with Azie here, as I feel I know him well enough for it, not > meant to incite a flame war << Takes a lot more than that to upset me. I've learned over the years that most folks really aren't trying to strike a nerve when they reply to statements made, but merely trying to convince someone that their idea is fact, or more valid. Opinions are just that: opinions, and we all know that everyone has one and that some of us are more ready to express ours than others and sometimes it comes off more harshly than it does at other times. I sure wouldn't poke fun at anyone if I couldn't take it, so FIRE AWAY. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Ford motors Customer Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:04:46 -0500 Gary T. writes: >>Does anybody have a number for Ford customer service? << There should b e a "Customer Service #" listed in the Owners manual near the back. Toll free, I believe. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Shorter pushrods? Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:16:32 -0500 Bill B. writes: >>Yes you can run a cam with more lift but you may need to get shorter pushrods<< Wanna splain this to me?? The backside(downside) of the cam remains the same, so why would you want shorter pushrods?? That would defeat the purpose of more lift on the cam to the same degree as the shorter portion of the pushrod!!!! Right?? Confused on this one.. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Torque ratings Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:44:32 -0700 Since you brought it up.........one grain of sand (actually, probably a sliver of metal that was removed in grinding or blasting) in a thread can act like a sprague clutch when you insert it into a threaded hole or nut etc.. When you try to take it apart it can "Lock up" in such a way that you can not get it apart without breaking something. I have never seen this happen on a car or truck which typically has some lube on the threads but in a dry grinding operation, where you deliberately keep all threaded parts absolutely dry to prevent them turning into self lapping machines, it happens rather too often. I put anti-seize on all bolts and nuts regardless of it's location with one exception and I'm not sure that I need to even worry about that....... but internal engine parts don't need any lube because they will have oil on them typically when you put them together anyway and are bathed in oil all their lives so anti-seize is redundant to say the least there. I don't like the idea of contaminating my new oil in my new engine.......:-) One drop of oil (except in a blind hole) will have the same effect as a gallon so "lightly oiled threads" or "heavily oiled threads" are equal for all intents and purposes with that one exception. (in a blind hole, too much oil can create a hydrostatic lock preventing the bolt from being fully tightened) Torque is there as a way to get things the same, day after day but if you develop a feel for it you can tell when things are tight and when they are too tight (or beginning to stretch). Most torque specs have a fair margin built in for error and variations of steel consistency etc. and many are not due to the bolt strength but to the material being fastened so just use your head when tightening things. A few places I've found that torque specs can get you in trouble are clutch to flywheel bolts, Intake manifold bolts and auto tranny bolts (in aluminum parts). Many of these tend to be on the high side for the application and if removed and replaced very often can be stripped even with the proper torque. Most of these probably can be attributed to someone else not using the proper torque previously so the threads were already damaged, hard to say. OTOH, oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts auto tranny pan bolts tend to be way under spec'd for the application and your engine or tranny will almost always leak if you only apply the spec torque there but you can over tighten them too and crush the gaskets so feel is again your best friend. I've found that these typically need to be re-torqued many times over the life of the installation as the gaskets shrink. I tighten these up to the point where the pan metal begins to bend slightly and let it go there. Load spreader washers are highly recommended in these applications so you can get them tighter without warping or bending the pans. Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > Wonder if it's OK to sand blast them? (Just kidding...;) ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 460 engine, brakes Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:59:57 -0700 Dawn, remove the bleeders, wrap them in the direction of the threads with teflon tape and re-intall them, stick a clear plastic tube on the bleeders, one at a time starting with the right rear and "Gravity bleed" them into an empty fluid bottle so you can see the bubbles. Hold the tube so that it goes up a little and then hangs down so you can see the bubbles climb up out of the bleeder. When the tube is running clear, close it and go to the left rear, then right front and left front in that order. You will have plenty of brake :-) Use a deep, 3/8, 6 point socket to remove them and be careful not to break them off. This requires a very educated elbow (that's a torqe expression :-)) so be careful. First try to loosen them then tighten them back and forth a little bit to get them loosened up. If in doubt, leave it and try the next one. If you get any of them to open you may get enough air out to have "some" brakes. Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > brake fluid (one of those I assumed he had situations) no brake fluid there > so I filled it up and now need the one man kit to bleed them. . . or wait > till Saturday (Tom's busy all week). ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 460 engine Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:03:20 -0700 You probably have a layer of oil/water scum at the bottom of the pan due to water sitting in it for so long. Until you actually clean this out it will continue to mix with any new oil you put in it. Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > My oil was looking like chocolate milk so I changed it to see if it was because it didn't have a distributor for heaven only knows how long. > > Well my new oil is looking like white milk. ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: axle ID... IDENTIFIED! Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:19:38 -0400 After asking a few more people (and not being able to locate the ID on the axle itself) I've come to the conclusion that the 14 bolt axle I have under my 79 Bronco is indeed a GM 14 bolt. The thing that gave it away are the massive (and I mean massive) drum brakes. In my search, I found a website that did a step by step disk swap, and said that you'd lose 80#'s just by getting ride of the drums. Now I need is to find the six sided nut to take off the spindle nuts. Thanks for all your help. -bob- ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Help w/ F350 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:09:39 -0700 Vacuum :-) Vacuum operates the heater controls........ Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > have some insight. I have a friend with a 97 F350 diesel. He is having problems with the heating > system in the truck and thinks it might be the heater core that needs ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: F250 Smokin 460 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:19:22 -0700 This engine sat with water in it for a long time. That makes it suspect as a good core. If you have a place to store it, pull the engine and pop in a yard engine to get you on the road then work on the original as you get time. Most yards will guarantee a good engine but not the installation fee. If it is bad right away they will install another one free but you will pay the installation again. Any yard 460 will likely have lots of miles on it so you are in a crap shoot in any case. Rebuilds are almost always limited in life expectancy since they use the cheapest method to get it on the shelf in most cases. Since I can do it myself I would get a yard engine before buying a "shelf" rebuild but if you have to pay someone then have him get the engine and install it on his warantee and keep the paper work! A shop rebuild of your engine will take more than 2 weeks typically due to .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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