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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Sat, 23 Sep 2000 11:14:21 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 11:14:21 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #256 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Fri, 22 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 256 In This Issue: Frame Cleaning Re: Synthetic vs Dino Oil Cleaning grease spots Oil in water Re: Synthetic vs Dino Oil Re: Oil in water Re: Oil in water Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Re: Oil in water Re: Oil in water Re: Oil in water Re: Oil in water Re: Oil in water Re: Frame Cleaning Re: Frame Cleaning question about welding Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Deacon's view on Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil Re: Grease removal OT: Ford customer service # Re: OT: Ford customer service # Re: Clean Gas Tank Re: OT: Ford customer service # Re: OT: Ford customer service # Re: Frame Cleaning Re: Frame Cleaning ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:59:27 -0500 Subject: Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze) From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> Second, though it may be slight, the less dino juice we use IN the motor, the > more we can burn right ? I'm not a petroleum nor chemical engineer, but I don't think this is quite correct. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:06:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> My, er, uh, D*r*ngo came with free oil change every 3000 miles for as > long as I own the vehicle...Protects me and protects them... > > I just wish I could use it on every other vehicle I own... As long as they button it all back together again. One of my bosses lost his Audi to a loose drain plug, another one almost lost her Toy Toter to a missing fill cap. Boy, everything under that hood was really lubed good. As long as I can safely dispose of the used oil, I'll do mine myself, thank you. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:10:22 -0500 Subject: Re: pondering my door panels... From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> I recently acquired some "new" door panels off a '79 XLT with the wood grain > insert. I pulled the inserts out to recover them, and broke a couple of the > plastic "studs/dowels" off. They had those push-on retainer washers that go > on real easy, but don't come off without cutting them apart. I need to > replace the dowels and get new retainers, I'd rather find a better way to > hold it, I hate those retainers. The hard part is the outside will be > upholstered, making it inaccessible. Has anyone used small bolts, just > finger tight? Any ideas? I would appreciated any if you have them. Marty, I don't have the fancy panels, but I used black automotive screws with the oval head (panhead?) and the built in washer all the way around. You have to get them a little more than finger tight or they will vibrate loose. The upholstery may eliminate this option for you. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:13:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Pre-Lubers From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> And if you really wanted to do it "Sano" you could hook up an oil pressure > switch so it only runs when there is no pressure. An idiot light sender > might do the trick there :-) > > Hook it up to the ignition switch so when you turn it on the preluber runs > until there is pressure and then it quits automatically. If you want to run > it longer, on a timed basis, you can add a flip flop timer in the circuit > similar to those auto head lights that stay on for a few minutes. You never > have to think about it again and you can put an LED in the circuit so you > know when it runs etc.... > > This set up would eliminate the need to prefill the filters and you could > safely take it to a Jiffy Lube this way too :-) You could even set it up so > the ignition won't work until there is pressure......shall I go on? :-) Now here is a device that will extend engine life, especially one that sits for weeks or months between starts. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:15:51 -0500 From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: Frame Cleaning >I need some help, I am just about finished cleaning the frame of my 67 F100, >I need ot know if there is any tool that will aid me in cleaning the >crevices that I can't get a wire brush or scraper in. Some of that "purple" liquid degreaser (can be bought from any auto parts store) and a power washer. Works great. Doss Halsey '68 F250 Camper Special - Frame degreased by above method. Painted with POR15. ------------------------------ From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:43:01 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: Synthetic vs Dino Oil Just to throw in my $.02 worth. I tried to run Castrol Syntec in my truck and the rear main seal started to leave a small puddle every where I parked. When I switched back to Motorcraft oil the leak stopped and still has not come back. This has been about 2 years ago. new house and clean driveway the truck has never left a drop on it in a year and a half. I think the Syntec oil was like a 5W-50 and I run 10W-40 Motorcraft usualy. I guess it could be the viscosity difference but I'm no expert any means. I also do not change oil at 3000. The engine builder that built motor said that in high oil capacity motors (mine takes 8 1/2 quarts) you would be fine running the motor 500 miles per quart. So I change mine about every 4000. I guess this is also dependant on condition of engine as well. (worn rings can allow oil to contaminate at faster rate.) Laters, Danny Ling ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Cleaning grease spots Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:16:01 -0500 Gary writes: >>BTW, just bought a gallon of Zep "Purple" cleaner to try on my grease spots in the barn. Heard it worked well for that?<< Gary.. I use good ole household Clorox for this. woriks quite well for me... Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Oil in water Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:29:15 -0500 Howard B. writes:>> The tranny is manual (T-18) and new radiator (3 row), pump and thermostat. 390 has been > bored .040 over. I also have the fan shroud and a Ford 6 blade flex fan. What kind of > detergent and about how much to use?<< OK that rules out tranny lines in radiator. Not sure a 3 core radiator is sufficient for a "Built" 390, but not sure. The 6 blade flex fan I would be suspicious of also. I run a 9 Bladed clutch type fan(not the fluid filled one, but the one that has the bimetal strip across it in the front center) and have never had cooling problems.. Are you sure the T'stat is opening fully?? Take it out and put it in a pan of water and bring it to a boil with a cooling thermomerter in the pan and watch it open - what temp it starts to open and what temp it comes fully open, and turn the eye off and watch it close and monitor its closing temp and then fire it back up and watch it open again. Cycle it a few times to make sure it operates correctly by monitoring the opening/closing temps.. I'm out of ideas.... I currently have no FE's, but have run them for lots of years. Now running 460's.. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 19:38:32 GMT Subject: Re: Synthetic vs Dino Oil >Just to throw in my $.02 worth. I tried to run Castrol Syntec in my >truck *shudder* I know 2 guys who lost their seals to this .... uh ...stuff ... they talked to a mechanic about it and he knew about 3 others ... I tend to shy away from the Castrol stuff because of this ... was yours the blend or the pure synthetic ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 19:41:41 GMT Subject: Re: Oil in water > Not sure a 3 core radiator is sufficient for a >"Built" 390, but not sure. Depends on the definition of built ... some call mine built and its doin fine with a 3core ... needs a fan shroud to help out with idle situations though ... >I currently have no FE's, but have run them for lots of years. Now running 460's.. > You mean you're a traitor ;) (I'm just jokin with Azie here, as I feel I know him well enough for it, not meant to incite a flame war like John likes to do occasionally ;) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 15:46:37 -0500 From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: Re: Oil in water The 360 originally in the truck had 6 solid blades, I may try to go back to it. Last night I drained the water in the radiator, poured in a cup if Wisk laundry deteregnt and drove the truck about 10 miles, then came back and drained, expected soap suds everywhere, but just tiny bubbles, like in beer. Filled with water and today temp seems to be back to around normal. When should a 180 degree thermostat start to open? I assume fully open by 180 deg. I wonder if a 160 deg would help any. Thanks to all who responded, especially about the soap. Howardb "Azie L. Magnusson" wrote: > OK that rules out tranny lines in radiator. Not sure a 3 core radiator is sufficient for a > "Built" 390, but not sure. The 6 blade flex fan I would be suspicious of also. I run a > 9 Bladed clutch type fan(not the fluid filled one, but the one that has the bimetal strip > across it in the front center) and have never had cooling problems.. Are you sure > the T'stat is opening fully?? Take it out and put it in a pan of water and bring it to > a boil with a cooling thermomerter in the pan and watch it open - what temp it starts > to open and what temp it comes fully open, and turn the eye off and watch it close > and monitor its closing temp and then fire it back up and watch it open again. Cycle > it a few times to make sure it operates correctly by monitoring the opening/closing > temps.. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:57:36 -0700 From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Burt Hill, SHill48337 aol.com wrote:
> I started using spectrographic oil analysis Whose service do you use? And: > Not only that I use filters that remove particles less than 0.5 microns. Wanna' share with us the name of this filter? -M- Marv Miller mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person that my dog thinks I am". ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 15:53:32 -0500 Subject: Re: Oil in water From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> (I'm just jokin with Azie here, as I feel I know him well enough for it, not > meant to incite a flame war like John likes to do occasionally ;) I resemble that remark! We have lots of new list members that need to know. Actually, the dino vs. synthetic was a calm, enlightening discussion with lots of facts. I am proud. Tied right in to our recent oil filter thread. Everyone have a great weekend. Henry and I are away to study for a test. (I study, Henry gets me there in style and comfort, on time.) -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 16:00:29 -0500 Subject: Re: Oil in water From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> The 360 originally in the truck had 6 solid blades, I may try to go back to > it. Last night I drained the water > in the radiator, poured in a cup if Wisk laundry deteregnt and drove the > truck about 10 miles, then came back > and drained, expected soap suds everywhere, but just tiny bubbles, like in > beer. Filled with water and today > temp seems to be back to around normal. > > When should a 180 degree thermostat start to open? I assume fully open by > 180 deg. I wonder if a 160 deg would > help any. Probably not, Howard. I run a 160 but my cooling system is in proper working order. I do have a six blade stainless steel flex fan that I do not like. My Towncar has a seven blade clutch type fan on it that works very well, but the engine is a 302. I think I am going to bone yard hunt for an original fan from an LTD with a 351M. I am pretty sure I have seen them in the yards with a factory flex fan. My other option is to adapt a stainless steel flex fan from an early 70s Cadillac, but they are hard to come by and I'm not too sure of the bolt pattern and it isn't a Ford part..... -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 16:08:10 -0500 From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: Re: Oil in water I think my next little adventure will be to build a 460/C6 and stuff it into my '73 Shortbed. I have always built FE's but I want to try something different. One thing I have noticed is, that if you think FE parts are high compared to small block stuff, don't look at parts for 385 series engines. Has anyone swapped in a 460 into a truck that had a straight 6 or FE? Is it a real pain? Howardb wish wrote: > > Not sure a 3 core radiator is sufficient for a > >"Built" 390, but not sure. > > Depends on the definition of built ... some call mine built and its doin fine > with a 3core ... needs a fan shroud to help out with idle situations though > ... > > >I currently have no FE's, but have run them for lots of years. Now running > 460's.. > > > > You mean you're a traitor ;) > > (I'm just jokin with Azie here, as I feel I know him well enough for it, not > meant to incite a flame war like John likes to do occasionally ;) > > Just my $.02 > wish > > 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L > 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish > > Ford Truck Enthusiasts > http://www.ford-trucks.com > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: Oil in water Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:16:30 -0700 I swapped out my 300 I-6 in favor of a 460.....Was very easy. My truck is an 86 (well most of it) so it's a little different. You'll need an new tranny if auto or a new bellhousing if manual The motor mounts and frame horns off of a truck of your vintage with a 460 New radiator and that's about it. My swap turned out very well...Now if I could only stop breaking parts. I grenaded 3 9" rears before I finally stuffed a 10.25 under their. The front solid D44 still likes to give up every once in a while, but I'll have to live with that until I can find a reasonably price D60...(anyone have a lead on one of those???) Josh -----Original Message----- From: Howard Bottles [mailto:Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com]
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 2:08 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Oil in water I think my next little adventure will be to build a 460/C6 and stuff it into my '73 Shortbed. I have always built FE's but I want to try something different. One thing I have noticed is, that if you think FE parts are high compared to small block stuff, don't look at parts for 385 series engines. Has anyone swapped in a 460 into a truck that had a straight 6 or FE? Is it a real pain? Howardb wish wrote: > > Not sure a 3 core radiator is sufficient for a > >"Built" 390, but not sure. > > Depends on the definition of built ... some call mine built and its doin fine > with a 3core ... needs a fan shroud to help out with idle situations though > ... > > >I currently have no FE's, but have run them for lots of years. Now running > 460's.. > > > > You mean you're a traitor ;) > > (I'm just jokin with Azie here, as I feel I know him well enough for it, not > meant to incite a flame war like John likes to do occasionally ;) > > Just my $.02 > wish > > 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L > 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish > > Ford Truck Enthusiasts > http://www.ford-trucks.com > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Oil in water Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 18:01:46 -0400 The 6 blade flex fan I would be suspicious of also. I run a > 9 Bladed clutch type fan(not the fluid filled one, but the one that has the bimetal strip > across it in the front center) and have never had cooling problems ===================================================== beleive it or not in the last few months i have saw 3 fellas install their fans BACKWARDS so they dont pull the air have you checked to be sure of this] gordon ------------------------------ From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 18:15:09 EDT Subject: Re: Oil in water It was a great discussion. Stayed on focus and no one stepped on any toes. Now if we can only get everyone to change the subject line when they decide to change topics. (note: subject line intentionally left alone). Thom 1967 F-Series Registry http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee In a message dated 9/22/2000 4:54:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:
> I resemble that remark! We have lots of new list members that need to know. > Actually, the dino vs. synthetic was a calm, enlightening discussion with > lots of facts. I am proud. Tied right in to our recent oil filter thread. ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 21:27:57 GMT Subject: Re: Oil in water >When should a 180 degree thermostat start to open? I assume fully open by 180 deg. I wonder if a 160 deg would >help any. > Probably not ... if its really overheating (not just reading it on the gauge) then all that will happen is the 160 will open sooner. If you're in a part of the country like I am, you'll regret that 160 about the first time it dips below 0 and you are going on a longer trip ... the fingers get chilly :) As you noticed that temp that they go to fully open is all that the rating means, so putting a lower temp t-stat in doesn't actually fix the problem unless the problem was a sticky thermostat. Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 20:35:51 EDT Subject: Re: Frame Cleaning I just recently did the same to my F250 , if you have an air compressor any size will do. I went to a hardware store and picked a cheap sand blaster (basically just a hose with a trigger on the end about 10 bucks) and a bag of playground sand because it's so fine. I had no problem getting into the crevices. ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Frame Cleaning Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 20:49:46 -0400 I went to a hardware store and picked a cheap sand blaster > (basically just a hose with a trigger on the end about 10 bucks) and a bag of > playground sand because it's so fine. I had no problem getting into the > crevices. > ============================================================= YES BUT how did you get all the sand out of where you blasted it and everywheres else it went YouDidnt ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 21:00:15 -0700 From: Negative Image <negativeimage earthlink.net>
Subject: question about welding I'm just about ready to weld my new floor boards into my 65 flareside, what size welder would i need? -- Andrew Rolfsen 1971 AMC Javelin SST 1968 Mercury Cougar 1966 Plymouth Fury III ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:17:58 EDT Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize In a message dated 9/22/00 5:39:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time, gpeters3 lni.net
writes: << As with the oil filters, the spectrometer will tell you about particles and solids but won't give you a clue as to the PH of the oil which is what destroys the bearings. I'm just curious what you can test for with your setup? >> PH is one of the things that gets tested, including the total base number which looks at the condition of the additive package, and the PPM of the various elements that maybe in the oil. Silicon is one element that continues to climb with time in engine. It comes from the fine dust in the air, even though these particles are too small to cause wear they can, however, if it gets high enough mess with the surface tension or the ability to for an oil to cling. When you get your analysis back you get more than just what is in it, you get an analysis with professional recommendations. In other words they do not just give me a bunch of data and hope I might make something out of it, they tell me what to think about it. They tell you if there is abnormal bearing material, or the hardened surface of the cam shaft. There are various recommendations for the intervals to have analysis performed, I do it about every 20K miles. Costs have gone up over the years, about $20 for it now. I have used several Companies, the best way I have found is to talk to your local major oil brand name dealer and buy the kits from them. The kit is box labeled and ready to send through the mail that contains 3oz squeeze bottle with a small tube that goes down the dip stick tube and fills the bottle. Fill out the paper work, put the lid on it and drop it in the mail. If there is a serious problem they call you instead of waiting for return mail, otherwise you will get the analysis back in about 3 weeks. Some companies want a unused sample of your particular oil to serve as a comparison.(good thing I think) Another way to learn about the process and find companies, is to do a word search on spectrographic oil analysis. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ From: "Deacon" <deconblu ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Deacon's view on Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 11:20:23 -0700 I feel I've read enough on synthetic oil to convince me there is a significant improvement with synthetic over dino oil. It's properties allow cooler running engines and maintains it's viscosity without braking down as with dino oil. The only warning I've seen is it's not recommended for engine brake in. As far as, is it worth the added cost, It's all up to the individual owner. We're not talking an astronomical amount of money here. To say it's 5 times the price is deceiving as with the extended miles before it needs changing. Most people that would use synthetic oil, most likely wouldn't change their routine maintenance schedule. They would more likely be using it because they want the best for their vehicle. In conclusion I'll say; if a person wants to use synthetic oil, there is no arguing synthetic oil is better and they can spend their money as they wish. If a person feels dino oil is better for them then the same thing goes. The only thing we can all agree on, is the importance of changing oil and filter. Later! Deacon deconblu ford-trucks.com
deconblu earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/ ------------------------------ From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:20:10 EDT Subject: Re: Grease removal i sell pressure cleaning equipment and chemicals, of all the degreasers i have, there is a real expensive citrus solvent available, it penetrates the grease and concrete for deep down cleaning, i sell the purple cleaner but its much stronger than retail stores products. it also works well, but with any product you will probably still have a stain. for rust and mud stains on concrete use muratic acid, but be VERY CAREFUL, use an alkaline detergent on top of it to help neutralize the acid. just bought a 1974 f100 parts truck, if any one needs anything let me know. ------------------------------ From: "Gary Tobolski" <garyt mediaone.net>
Subject: OT: Ford customer service # Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:46:22 -0400 Does anybody have a number for Ford customer service? My 2000 Ford Focus began developing electrical problems earlier this week, and is now undriveable due to lack of things like lights. The dealers around here are being no help and I need to get this taken care of immediately. Thanks. Eric Tobolski ------------------------------ From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: OT: Ford customer service # Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:27:18 -0800 Well, I think you could probably check online, or if that doesnt work, dial 1-800-555-1212 and ask the directory operator for Ford motor company, if nothing else, I know you can get the number for Ford Motor Credit there, and you can tell them, No Worky Car, No paya da bill :0) Best of luck to ya, 71 F250 ( with #$ # Garrison steering, still tryin to get it apart)390 4x4
81 Ford Courier (manual, 2.3, Still making ^that one look bad at over 200,000 miles, with a very neglected engine, but she still runs great, and dont burn oil :o) ) -----Original Message----- From: Gary Tobolski <garyt mediaone.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, September 22, 2000 7:55 PM Subject: [61-79-list] OT: Ford customer service # >Does anybody have a number for Ford customer service? My 2000 Ford Focus >began developing electrical problems earlier this week, and is now >undriveable due to lack of things like lights. The dealers around here are >being no help and I need to get this taken care of immediately. Thanks. >Eric Tobolski > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:37:03 -0700 From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Clean Gas Tank Dennis: Another way I've done it, it to use gravel (crushed rock). That tends to eliminate the risk of using the chain approach. Re: the POR 15, I would be concerned about how to apply it around the whole interior of the tank. The gas tank sealant products are a bit more liquid. I'd use the POR-15 on exposed surfaces (like floors and trunks) in a heartbeat. -- Tim Bowman Burien, WA tkbowman uswest.net
Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more) Dennis wrote: Tim, have you ever worried about the sparks created by the friction of the metal-against-metal? Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I knew a kid in my home town who played around with an empty gas tank....once... I have the Eastwood catalog folded to the page with the gas treatment and will probably go with that, or this POR-15 I read so much about from this group...I probably need some of that just to have in my garage... ------------------------------ From: "Deacon" <deconblu ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: OT: Ford customer service # Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 01:43:45 -0700 From: "Gary Tobolski" > Does anybody have a number for Ford customer service? I checked FTE's link page and found http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.qualitycareservice.com/ with the phone numbers your looking for. If your looking for information on Fords, always check out FTE first. The information Ken has provided there is phenomenal. Take advantage of it! Later! Deacon deconblu ford-trucks.com
deconblu earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 10:16:00 -0400 From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: OT: Ford customer service # At 04:43 AM 9/23/00, you wrote: >From: "Gary Tobolski" >> Does anybody have a number for Ford customer service? > > I checked FTE's link page and found >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.qualitycareservice.com/ with the phone numbers your looking >for. If your looking for information on Fords, always check out FTE >first. The information Ken has provided there is phenomenal. Take >advantage of it! > >Later! > >Deacon > >deconblu ford-trucks.com
>deconblu earthlink.net
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/ Hey Deacon, you're going to swell my head! Anyway, does that mean I don't have a life? .... don't answer that! :-) Later man.... Ken ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Frame Cleaning Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:00:04 -0700 I'd rather have a little sand in the cracks than some liquid degreaser that will bleed out and eventually damage the paint. The sand will simply be trapped in there by any sealer you apply before the finish coat so what's the problem with that? Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > how did you get all the sand out of where you blasted it and everywheres > else it went > YouDidnt ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Frame Cleaning Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:07:08 -0700 "Will Do" depends on your patience :-) I used a home made 1 hp for 25 years and did it all with it but sand blasting required a considerable bundle of patience. I now have a 7.5 hp that turns my neighbors lights off when it starts and you can't run it out of air......NOW I'm happy :-) If you plan to make this a hobby and do it more than once I highly recommend some kind of "Pressure" blaster rather than the, admittedly cheaper, siphon .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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