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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Fri, 22 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 256

In This Issue:
Frame Cleaning
Re: Synthetic vs Dino Oil
Cleaning grease spots
Oil in water
Re: Synthetic vs Dino Oil
Re: Oil in water
Re: Oil in water
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Oil in water
Re: Oil in water
Re: Oil in water
Re: Oil in water
Re: Oil in water
Re: Frame Cleaning
Re: Frame Cleaning
question about welding
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Deacon's view on Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil
Re: Grease removal
OT: Ford customer service #
Re: OT: Ford customer service #
Re: Clean Gas Tank
Re: OT: Ford customer service #
Re: OT: Ford customer service #
Re: Frame Cleaning
Re: Frame Cleaning

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:59:27 -0500
Subject: Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Second, though it may be slight, the less dino juice we use IN the motor, the
> more we can burn right ?

I'm not a petroleum nor chemical engineer, but I don't think this is quite
correct.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:06:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> My, er, uh, D*r*ngo came with free oil change every 3000 miles for as
> long as I own the vehicle...Protects me and protects them...
>
> I just wish I could use it on every other vehicle I own...

As long as they button it all back together again. One of my bosses lost his
Audi to a loose drain plug, another one almost lost her Toy Toter to a
missing fill cap. Boy, everything under that hood was really lubed good. As
long as I can safely dispose of the used oil, I'll do mine myself, thank
you.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:10:22 -0500
Subject: Re: pondering my door panels...
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> I recently acquired some "new" door panels off a '79 XLT with the wood grain
> insert.  I pulled the inserts out to recover them, and broke a couple of the
> plastic "studs/dowels" off.  They had those push-on retainer washers that go
> on real easy, but don't come off without cutting them apart.  I need to
> replace the dowels and get new retainers, I'd rather find a better way to
> hold it, I hate those retainers.  The hard part is the outside will be
> upholstered, making it inaccessible.  Has anyone used small bolts, just
> finger tight?  Any ideas?  I would appreciated any if you have them.

Marty,

I don't have the fancy panels, but I used black automotive screws with the
oval head (panhead?) and the built in washer all the way around. You have to
get them a little more than finger tight or they will vibrate loose. The
upholstery may eliminate this option for you.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:13:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Pre-Lubers
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> And if you really wanted to do it "Sano" you could hook up an oil pressure
> switch so it only runs when there is no pressure.  An idiot light sender
> might do the trick there :-)
>
> Hook it up to the ignition switch so when you turn it on the preluber runs
> until there is pressure and then it quits automatically.  If you want to run
> it longer, on a timed basis, you can add a flip flop timer in the circuit
> similar to those auto head lights that stay on for a few minutes.  You never
> have to think about it again and you can put an LED in the circuit so you
> know when it runs etc....
>
> This set up would eliminate the need to prefill the filters and you could
> safely take it to a Jiffy Lube this way too :-)  You could even set it up so
> the ignition won't work until there is pressure......shall I go on? :-)

Now here is a device that will extend engine life, especially one that sits
for weeks or months between starts.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:15:51 -0500
From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: Frame Cleaning

>I need some help, I am just about finished cleaning the frame of my 67 F100,
>I need ot know if there is any tool that will aid me in cleaning the
>crevices that I can't get a wire brush or scraper in.

Some of that "purple" liquid degreaser (can be bought from any auto parts
store) and a power washer. Works great.

Doss Halsey
'68 F250 Camper Special - Frame degreased by above method. Painted with
POR15.


------------------------------

From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:43:01 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Synthetic vs Dino Oil

Just to throw in my $.02 worth. I tried to run Castrol Syntec in my
truck and the rear main seal started to leave a small puddle every where
I parked. When I switched back to Motorcraft oil the leak stopped and
still has not come back. This has been about 2 years ago. new house and
clean driveway the truck has never left a drop on it in a year and a
half. I think the Syntec oil was like a 5W-50 and I run 10W-40
Motorcraft usualy. I guess it could be the viscosity difference but I'm
no expert any means.

I also do not change oil at 3000. The engine builder that built motor
said that in high oil capacity motors (mine takes 8 1/2 quarts) you
would be fine running the motor 500 miles per quart. So I change mine
about every 4000. I guess this is also dependant on condition of engine
as well. (worn rings can allow oil to contaminate at faster rate.)

Laters, Danny Ling


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Cleaning grease spots
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:16:01 -0500


Gary writes:  >>BTW, just bought a gallon of Zep "Purple" cleaner to try on my grease spots
in the barn.  Heard it worked well for that?<<

Gary..  I use good ole household Clorox for this.  woriks quite well for me...


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Oil in water
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:29:15 -0500


Howard B. writes:>>  The tranny is manual (T-18) and new radiator (3 row), pump and thermostat. 390 has been
> bored .040 over. I also have the fan shroud and a Ford 6 blade flex fan. What kind of
> detergent and about how much to use?<<

OK that rules out tranny lines in radiator.  Not sure a 3 core radiator is sufficient for a
"Built" 390, but not sure.  The 6 blade flex fan I would be suspicious of also.  I run a
9 Bladed clutch type fan(not the fluid filled one, but the one that has the bimetal strip
across it in the front center) and have never had cooling problems..  Are you sure
the T'stat is opening fully??  Take it out and put it in a pan of water and bring it to
a boil with a cooling thermomerter in the pan and watch it open - what temp it starts
to open and what temp it comes fully open, and turn the eye off and watch it close
and monitor its closing temp and then fire it back up and watch it open again.  Cycle
it a few times to make sure it operates correctly by monitoring the opening/closing
temps..
I'm out of ideas....
I currently have no FE's, but have run them for lots of years.  Now running 460's..


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 19:38:32 GMT
Subject: Re: Synthetic vs Dino Oil



>Just to throw in my $.02 worth. I tried to run Castrol Syntec in my
>truck

*shudder*  I know 2 guys who lost their seals to this .... uh ...stuff ... they
talked to a mechanic about it and he knew about 3 others ... I tend to shy away
from the Castrol stuff because of this ... was yours the blend or the pure synthetic
...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 19:41:41 GMT
Subject: Re: Oil in water


> Not sure a 3 core radiator is sufficient for a
>"Built" 390, but not sure.

Depends on the definition of built ... some call mine built and its doin fine
with a 3core ... needs a fan shroud to help out with idle situations though
...

>I currently have no FE's, but have run them for lots of years.  Now running
460's..
>

You mean you're a traitor ;)

(I'm just jokin with Azie here, as I feel I know him well enough for it, not
meant to incite a flame war like John likes to do occasionally ;)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 15:46:37 -0500
From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: Re: Oil in water

The 360 originally in the truck had 6 solid blades, I may try to go back to it. Last night I drained the water
in the radiator, poured in a cup if Wisk laundry deteregnt and drove the truck about 10 miles, then came back
and drained, expected soap suds everywhere, but just tiny bubbles, like in  beer. Filled with water and today
temp seems to be back to around normal.

When should a 180 degree thermostat start to open? I assume fully open by 180 deg. I wonder if a 160 deg would
help any.

Thanks to all who responded, especially about the soap.

Howardb

"Azie L. Magnusson" wrote:

> OK that rules out tranny lines in radiator.  Not sure a 3 core radiator is sufficient for a
> "Built" 390, but not sure.  The 6 blade flex fan I would be suspicious of also.  I run a
> 9 Bladed clutch type fan(not the fluid filled one, but the one that has the bimetal strip
> across it in the front center) and have never had cooling problems..  Are you sure
> the T'stat is opening fully??  Take it out and put it in a pan of water and bring it to
> a boil with a cooling thermomerter in the pan and watch it open - what temp it starts
> to open and what temp it comes fully open, and turn the eye off and watch it close
> and monitor its closing temp and then fire it back up and watch it open again.  Cycle
> it a few times to make sure it operates correctly by monitoring the opening/closing
> temps..


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:57:36 -0700
From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

Burt Hill, SHill48337 aol.com wrote:
> I started using spectrographic oil analysis

Whose service do you use?

And:
> Not only that I use filters that remove particles less than 0.5 microns.

Wanna' share with us the name of this filter?

-M-

Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 15:53:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil in water
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> (I'm just jokin with Azie here, as I feel I know him well enough for it, not
> meant to incite a flame war like John likes to do occasionally ;)

I resemble that remark! We have lots of new list members that need to know.
Actually, the dino vs. synthetic was a calm, enlightening discussion with
lots of facts. I am proud. Tied right in to our recent oil filter thread.

Everyone have a great weekend. Henry and I are away to study for a test. (I
study, Henry gets me there in style and comfort, on time.)

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 16:00:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil in water
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> The 360 originally in the truck had 6 solid blades, I may try to go back to
> it. Last night I drained the water
> in the radiator, poured in a cup if Wisk laundry deteregnt and drove the
> truck about 10 miles, then came back
> and drained, expected soap suds everywhere, but just tiny bubbles, like in
> beer. Filled with water and today
> temp seems to be back to around normal.
>
> When should a 180 degree thermostat start to open? I assume fully open by
> 180 deg. I wonder if a 160 deg would
> help any.

Probably not, Howard. I run a 160 but my cooling system is in proper working
order. I do have a six blade stainless steel flex fan that I do not like. My
Towncar has a seven blade clutch type fan on it that works very well, but
the engine is a 302. I think I am going to bone yard hunt for an original
fan from an LTD with a 351M. I am pretty sure I have seen them in the yards
with a factory flex fan. My other option is to adapt a stainless steel flex
fan from an early 70s Cadillac, but they are hard to come by and I'm not too
sure of the bolt pattern and it isn't a Ford part.....

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 16:08:10 -0500
From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: Re: Oil in water

I think my next little adventure will be to build a 460/C6 and stuff it into my
'73 Shortbed. I have always built FE's but I want to try something different. One
thing I have noticed is, that if you think FE parts are high compared to small
block stuff, don't look at parts for 385 series engines.

Has anyone swapped in a 460 into a truck that had a straight 6 or FE? Is it a
real pain?

Howardb

wish wrote:

> > Not sure a 3 core radiator is sufficient for a
> >"Built" 390, but not sure.
>
> Depends on the definition of built ... some call mine built and its doin fine
> with a 3core ... needs a fan shroud to help out with idle situations though
> ...
>
> >I currently have no FE's, but have run them for lots of years.  Now running
> 460's..
> >
>
> You mean you're a traitor ;)
>
> (I'm just jokin with Azie here, as I feel I know him well enough for it, not
> meant to incite a flame war like John likes to do occasionally ;)
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
> 73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
> Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> http://www.ford-trucks.com
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: Oil in water
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:16:30 -0700

I swapped out my 300 I-6 in favor of a 460.....Was very easy.

My truck is an 86 (well most of it) so it's a little different.

You'll need an new tranny if auto or a new bellhousing if manual
The motor mounts and frame horns off of a truck of your vintage with a 460
New radiator and that's about it.

My swap turned out very well...Now if I could only stop breaking parts.  I
grenaded 3 9" rears before I finally stuffed a 10.25 under their.  The front
solid D44 still likes to give up every once in a while,  but I'll have to
live with that until I can find a reasonably price D60...(anyone have a lead
on one of those???)

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: Howard Bottles [mailto:Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com]
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 2:08 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Oil in water


I think my next little adventure will be to build a 460/C6 and stuff it into
my
'73 Shortbed. I have always built FE's but I want to try something
different. One
thing I have noticed is, that if you think FE parts are high compared to
small
block stuff, don't look at parts for 385 series engines.

Has anyone swapped in a 460 into a truck that had a straight 6 or FE? Is it
a
real pain?

Howardb

wish wrote:

> > Not sure a 3 core radiator is sufficient for a
> >"Built" 390, but not sure.
>
> Depends on the definition of built ... some call mine built and its doin
fine
> with a 3core ... needs a fan shroud to help out with idle situations
though
> ...
>
> >I currently have no FE's, but have run them for lots of years.  Now
running
> 460's..
> >
>
> You mean you're a traitor ;)
>
> (I'm just jokin with Azie here, as I feel I know him well enough for it,
not
> meant to incite a flame war like John likes to do occasionally ;)
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
> 73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
> Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> http://www.ford-trucks.com
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Oil in water
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 18:01:46 -0400

The 6 blade flex fan I would be suspicious of also.  I run a
> 9 Bladed clutch type fan(not the fluid filled one, but the one that has
the bimetal strip
> across it in the front center) and have never had cooling problems
=====================================================
beleive it or not in the last few months i have saw 3 fellas install their
fans BACKWARDS so they dont pull the air
have you checked to be sure of this]
gordon



------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 18:15:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil in water

It was a great discussion.  Stayed on focus and no one stepped on any toes.
Now if we can only get everyone to change the subject line when they decide
to change topics.  (note:  subject line intentionally left alone).

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

In a message dated 9/22/2000 4:54:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:

> I resemble that remark! We have lots of new list members that need to know.
>  Actually, the dino vs. synthetic was a calm, enlightening discussion with
>  lots of facts. I am proud. Tied right in to our recent oil filter thread.

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 21:27:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Oil in water

>When should a 180 degree thermostat start to open? I assume fully open by 180
deg. I wonder if a 160 deg would
>help any.
>

Probably not ... if its really overheating (not just reading it on the gauge)
then all that will happen is the 160 will open sooner.  If you're in a part
of the country like I am, you'll regret that 160 about the first time it dips
below 0 and you are going on a longer trip ... the fingers get chilly :)

As you noticed that temp that they go to fully open is all that the rating means,
so putting a lower temp t-stat in doesn't actually fix the problem unless the
problem was a sticky thermostat.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 20:35:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Frame Cleaning

I just recently did the same to my F250 , if you have an air compressor any
size will do. I went to a hardware store and picked a cheap sand blaster
(basically just a hose with a trigger on the end about 10 bucks) and a bag of
playground sand because it's so fine. I had no problem getting into the
crevices.

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Frame Cleaning
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 20:49:46 -0400

I went to a hardware store and picked a cheap sand blaster
> (basically just a hose with a trigger on the end about 10 bucks) and a bag
of
> playground sand because it's so fine. I had no problem getting into the
> crevices.
> =============================================================
YES
BUT
how did you get all the sand out of where you blasted it and everywheres
else it went
YouDidnt



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 21:00:15 -0700
From: Negative Image <negativeimage earthlink.net>
Subject: question about welding

I'm just about ready to weld my new floor boards into my 65 flareside,
what size welder would i need?

--
Andrew Rolfsen
1971 AMC Javelin SST
1968 Mercury Cougar
1966 Plymouth Fury III



------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:17:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

In a message dated 9/22/00 5:39:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time, gpeters3 lni.net
writes:

<< As with the oil filters, the spectrometer will tell you about particles and
solids but won't give you a clue as to the PH of the oil which is what
destroys the bearings.  I'm just curious what you can test for with your
setup?   >>
PH is one of the things that gets tested, including the total base number
which looks at the condition of the additive package, and the PPM of the
various elements that maybe in the oil.  Silicon is one element that
continues to climb with time in engine.  It comes from the fine dust in the
air, even though these particles are too small to cause wear they can,
however, if it gets high enough mess with the surface tension or the ability
to for an oil to cling.  When you get your analysis back you get more than
just what is in it, you get an analysis with professional recommendations.
In other words they do not just give me a bunch of data and hope I might make
something out of it, they tell me what to think about it.  They tell you if
there is abnormal bearing material, or the hardened surface of the cam shaft.
There are various recommendations for the intervals to have analysis
performed, I do it about every 20K miles.  Costs have gone up over the years,
about $20 for it now.  I have used several Companies, the best way I have
found is to talk to your local major oil brand name dealer and buy the kits
from them.  The kit is box labeled and ready to send through the mail that
contains 3oz squeeze bottle with a small tube that goes down the dip stick
tube and fills the bottle.  Fill out the paper work, put the lid on it and
drop it in the mail.  If there is a serious problem they call you instead of
waiting for return mail, otherwise you will get the analysis back in about 3
weeks.  Some companies want a unused sample of your particular oil to serve
as a comparison.(good thing I think)  Another way to learn about the process
and find companies, is to do a word search on spectrographic oil analysis.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "Deacon" <deconblu ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Deacon's view on Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 11:20:23 -0700

   I feel I've read enough on synthetic oil to convince me there is a
significant improvement with synthetic over dino oil. It's properties
allow cooler running engines and maintains it's viscosity without
braking down as with dino oil. The only warning I've seen is it's not
recommended for engine brake in. As far as, is it worth the added cost,
It's all up to the individual owner. We're not talking an astronomical
amount of money here. To say it's 5 times the price is deceiving as with
the extended miles before it needs changing. Most people that would use
synthetic oil, most likely wouldn't change their routine maintenance
schedule. They would more likely be using it because they want the best
for their vehicle.
   In conclusion I'll say; if a person wants to use synthetic oil,
there is no arguing synthetic oil is better and they can spend their
money as they wish. If a person feels dino oil is better for them then
the same thing goes. The only thing we can all agree on, is the
importance of changing oil and filter.


Later!

Deacon

deconblu ford-trucks.com
deconblu earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/



------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:20:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Grease removal

i sell pressure cleaning equipment and chemicals, of all the degreasers i
have, there is a real expensive citrus solvent available, it penetrates the
grease and concrete for deep down cleaning, i sell the purple cleaner but its
much stronger than retail stores products. it also works well, but with any
product you will probably still have a stain.
for rust and mud stains on concrete use muratic acid, but be VERY CAREFUL,
use an alkaline detergent on top of it to help neutralize the acid.

   just bought a 1974 f100 parts truck, if any one needs anything let me
know.

------------------------------

From: "Gary Tobolski" <garyt mediaone.net>
Subject: OT: Ford customer service #
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:46:22 -0400

Does anybody have a number for Ford customer service?  My 2000 Ford Focus
began developing electrical problems earlier this week, and is now
undriveable due to lack of things like lights.  The dealers around here are
being no help and I need to get this taken care of immediately.  Thanks.
Eric Tobolski


------------------------------

From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: OT: Ford customer service #
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:27:18 -0800

Well, I think you could probably check online, or if that doesnt work, dial
1-800-555-1212 and ask the directory operator for Ford motor company, if
nothing else, I know you can get the number for Ford Motor Credit there, and
you can tell them, No Worky Car, No paya da bill :0)  Best of luck to ya,
71 F250 ( with #$ # Garrison steering, still tryin to get it apart)390 4x4
81 Ford Courier (manual, 2.3, Still making ^that one look bad at over
200,000 miles, with a very neglected engine, but she still runs great, and
dont burn oil :o) )
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Tobolski <garyt mediaone.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, September 22, 2000 7:55 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] OT: Ford customer service #


>Does anybody have a number for Ford customer service?  My 2000 Ford Focus
>began developing electrical problems earlier this week, and is now
>undriveable due to lack of things like lights.  The dealers around here are
>being no help and I need to get this taken care of immediately.  Thanks.
>Eric Tobolski
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:37:03 -0700
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Clean Gas Tank

Dennis:

Another way I've done it, it to use gravel (crushed rock).  That tends
to eliminate the risk of using the chain approach.

Re: the POR 15, I would be concerned about how to apply it around the
whole interior of the tank.  The gas tank sealant products are a bit
more liquid.  I'd use the POR-15 on exposed surfaces (like floors and
trunks) in a heartbeat.
--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net
Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
  (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)

Dennis wrote:
Tim, have you ever worried about the sparks created by the friction of
the metal-against-metal?  Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I knew a kid in
my home town who played around with an empty gas tank....once...

I have the Eastwood catalog folded to the page with the gas treatment
and will probably go with that, or this POR-15 I read so much about from

this group...I probably need some of that just to have in my garage...





------------------------------

From: "Deacon" <deconblu ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: OT: Ford customer service #
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 01:43:45 -0700

From: "Gary Tobolski"
> Does anybody have a number for Ford customer service?

   I checked FTE's link page and found
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.qualitycareservice.com/ with the phone numbers your looking
for. If your looking for information on Fords, always check out FTE
first. The information Ken has provided there is phenomenal. Take
advantage of it!

Later!

Deacon

deconblu ford-trucks.com
deconblu earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 10:16:00 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: OT: Ford customer service #

At 04:43 AM 9/23/00, you wrote:
>From: "Gary Tobolski"
>> Does anybody have a number for Ford customer service?
>
>    I checked FTE's link page and found
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.qualitycareservice.com/ with the phone numbers your looking
>for. If your looking for information on Fords, always check out FTE
>first. The information Ken has provided there is phenomenal. Take
>advantage of it!
>
>Later!
>
>Deacon
>
>deconblu ford-trucks.com
>deconblu earthlink.net
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/

Hey Deacon, you're going to swell my head!  Anyway, does that
mean I don't have a life?  .... don't answer that! :-)

Later man....
Ken



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Frame Cleaning
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:00:04 -0700

I'd rather have a little sand in the cracks than some liquid degreaser that
will bleed out and eventually damage the paint.  The sand will simply be
trapped in there by any sealer you apply before the finish coat so what's
the problem with that?

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> how did you get all the sand out of where you blasted it and everywheres
> else it went
> YouDidnt



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Frame Cleaning
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:07:08 -0700

"Will Do" depends on your patience :-)  I used a home made 1 hp for 25 years
and did it all with it but sand blasting required a considerable bundle of
patience.  I now have a 7.5 hp that turns my neighbors lights off when it
starts and you can't run it out of air......NOW I'm happy :-)

If you plan to make this a hobby and do it more than once I highly recommend
some kind of "Pressure" blaster rather than the, admittedly cheaper, siphon ....


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