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Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:36:01 -0400 (EDT)
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Thu, 21 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 255

In This Issue:
'76 Camper Special on eBay
Re: Clean gas tank...
Frame Cleaning
Re: pinion seal removal
Re: Frame Cleaning
Re: Clean gas tank...
Re: Clean gas tank...
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: 390 motor
Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel
Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Grease removal
Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Pre-Lubers
Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel
Re: Grease removal
Re: Clean gas tank...
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Update on the 400
pondering my door panels...
Re: Pre-Lubers

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:22:10 -0700
From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: '76 Camper Special on eBay

Saw this tonight.  SWMBO won't let me have it!

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=441715886

-M-

Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Clean gas tank...
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:25:51 -0400



>
>
>  Well, this should start an interesting thread...I'm getting ready to
> clean a gas tank that's got about 15 years of rust and crud built up in
> it...Any good/innovative (easy) ideas?
>
> I'm counting on you guys and gals...
> =============================================================
try finding a local dealer for POR 15 if there is none go to a boat supply
house and get some stuff called MARINE CLEAN it will remove all of the rust
and crud then
THEN just to be sure i would get some POR 15 gas tank sealer and use it
inside of the tank it will positively seal any holes there and not allow
anymore to EVER form inside of it
MAN this stuff is great and it does do what its supposed to do also
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Christopher Worley" <cworley76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Frame Cleaning
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 02:39:36 GMT

I need some help, I am just about finished cleaning the frame of my 67 F100,
I need ot know if there is any tool that will aid me in cleaning the
crevices that I can't get a wire brush or scraper in.


Chris
67 F100 (frame going to be painted this weekend)

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------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:45:30 EDT
Subject: Re: pinion seal removal

I think I have had the best luck using three small sheetmetal screws or the
likes. Put in location around the seal join the three of them with some heavy
wire. then hook the dent puller the wire this will give you three points of
pull. Usually this allows the seal to come out fairly easy.

------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:45:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Frame Cleaning

 If you don't have a sandblaster then I'd try using an awl or an old fine
tip screw driver.  There is nothing like chemically treating these crevice
areas either.

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

Chris wrote:

> I need ot know if there is any tool that will aid me in cleaning the
>  crevices that I can't get a wire brush or scraper in.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:09:15 -0700
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Clean gas tank...

Here's a recipe I've used:

Put on a set of hearing protection, drop a length of chain inside of the
tank, shake liberally, dump the contents, repeat the process several
times.  Add chemical cleaners as desired and then treat with a gas tank
sealer like what Eastwood sells.

--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net
Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
  (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)



------------------------------

From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: Clean gas tank...
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 23:41:50 -0500

try the POR15 it seals and keeps the stuff in the tank from comming loose

just do a search on that and you should come acrossed it
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, September 21, 2000 8:28 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Clean gas tank...


>
>
> Well, this should start an interesting thread...I'm getting ready to
>clean a gas tank that's got about 15 years of rust and crud built up in
>it...Any good/innovative (easy) ideas?
>
>I'm counting on you guys and gals...
>=============================================================
>


------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 00:38:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

In a message dated 9/20/00 11:09:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
sch8489 garnet.acns.fsu.edu writes:

<< this attitude is *exactly* the one amsoil is trying to sell you.  for god's
sake, where'd you get this?   >>

Well, my engineering background and understanding of the specifications of
Mobil-1 in caused me to start using it in 1977.  At this time it was only
available in a couple of test market areas of the Nation.  Luckily I was
living in Hawaii which was part of the LA test market and was able to
purchase it from the shelf.  I started using spectrographic oil analysis with
the Mobil-1, and based my changes on the condition of the oil.  I still do
this whether it is AMS/OIL or Mobil-1, but would not hesitate to follow the
recommendation on the container, 25,000 or 1 year.  The analysis also gives
me a good picture the real condition of my engine.  Not only that I use
filters that remove particles less than 0.5 microns.  Scott, do not feel bad,
when I first started using synthetics everyone I knew attacked them.  Now
some 20 years later most use it.  So, in about 20 years I expect you may like
it too.  Hang in there.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 01:12:00 EDT
Subject: Re: 390 motor

In a message dated 9/21/2000 2:20:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
halsey isl-inc.com writes:

<< Another clue: I changed to a manual choke to get more control of the warm
up period and richness does cure the bog off idle. This is encouraging to
me. Is there any point in trying to richen up the idle mixture? Got any
suggestions for an approach to systematically going after this problem?
 >>

One trick you might try is to change or adjust the acc pump cam. It's located
on teh throttle shaft next to the input crank (lust follow the injector
lever, you'll find it). There are normally several holes where you can rotate
the cam and change the timing of the squirt also. That's what I had to do on
my 400 to clear the bog.

George M in Fl.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 05:17:18 -0700
From: John Lord <thelord home.com>
Subject: Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel

Someday when i have the time i will be setting up a site with compiled
information, when i do i will let you all know

Greg wrote:

> John Lord wrote:
>
> > I build / run propane engines.
>
> <snip>
> Any websites or books where one could learn about building propane engines
> and where to get parts? The idea has crossed my mind a few times.
>
> Gregster
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 05:18:29 -0700
From: John Lord <thelord home.com>
Subject: Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel

It is a good book i have it But the bad news it is no longer in print.
I am in the process of scanning in whets left of my copy.

John Webster wrote:

> Greg,
>     I good book that has lots of valuable info is "Propane Fuel Conversions
> for Automotive Engines" by S-A Designs, written by Jay Storer. It covers
> building an engine for propane, dual-fuel, turbocharging ect.
>
> John
> '77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:29:28 -0700

As with the oil filters, the spectrometer will tell you about particles and
solids but won't give you a clue as to the PH of the oil which is what
destroys the bearings.  I'm just curious what you can test for with your
setup?  We used them to test our coolant in CNC machines but these were
designed with a narrow range which would "See" how much oil was in solution
with the water but that is all it could tell us.  We had to use other
equipment to test for the PH which was what kept the bugs away in our case.
Due to chemical reactions between the coolant and the metal removed in the
machining process the coolant would become acidic and a "booster" would have
to be added occasionally.

With the combustion products, heat and water from the atmosphere getting
into the oil over time these same problems crop up.  If  you can't get the
PH back to normal then you have to change the oil or damage will occur.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> << this attitude is *exactly* the one amsoil is trying to sell you.  for
god's
>  sake, where'd you get this?   >>
>
> living in Hawaii which was part of the LA test market and was able to
> purchase it from the shelf.  I started using spectrographic oil analysis
with



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 07:37:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

I knew this would happen. It's great to see everyone is still awake!

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 07:57:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> one nice thing it does for us is give us smoother cold weather
> starts with less engine wear on warm up due to it's natural multigrade
> properties with fewer additives required and saves the starter and batteries
> in winter a little bit.

I like this, Gary. The whole concoction is an additive. This thread kills me
every time we run it. I haven't laughed so hard in a long time. Pick a good
oil and change it religiously. Lube all your steering linkage and chassis
joints at every oil change. That's the ticket.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:02:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Grease removal
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> BTW, just bought a gallon of Zep "Purple" cleaner to try on my grease spots
> in the barn.  Heard it worked well for that?

I've never heard of Zep, so can't help there. Simple Green 100% works well.
Dawn dish washing detergent works well. If you spill regularly or catch it
right away, plain old clay cat litter works real well.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 09:13:59 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: Re: Grease removal

Zep product are industial use at once, now home depot carries them, I used to use

them at work...Some roducts are kick ass some are not...
Castrol Purple cleaner works well too and can be picked up at walmart
joe

John LaGrone wrote:

> > BTW, just bought a gallon of Zep "Purple" cleaner to try on my grease spots
> > in the barn.  Heard it worked well for that?
>
> I've never heard of Zep, so can't help there. Simple Green 100% works well.
> Dawn dish washing detergent works well. If you spill regularly or catch it
> right away, plain old clay cat litter works real well.
>
> -- John
> jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
> 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
> Dearborn iron rules!!!!
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:07:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

>  I change oil at 5k as a
> matter of convenience, use Mobil1 and MotorCraft filters.  It's convenient
> because I also rotate my tires at this time and this would get tedious at 3k
> intervals so I "risk" engine life to make my life a little more convenient

Gary, I, too, change oil and filter at 5000 instead of 3000. In Ford cast
iron V8s you will not see any difference in engine life. In later model
engines with mixed metal engines (read lots of aluminum) you will probably
see a slight decrease in engine life from extending the oil change interval.
If the truth was known, the average James Q. Public probably has their oil
changed about every 15000 miles or whenever the vehicle quits. Most people
just don't take care of their cars (or trucks). As I have said before, the
people on this list are not typical.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:15:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> 25k oil changes is a mythe
>> perpetuated by money hungry oil companies.
> ===============================================
> remember when engines first began being warranteed for 25,000 miles the auto
> companies said 6000 mile oil changes THEN they began 50,000 warrantys and
> then said 2 to 3000 mile oil changes seeing as how they now had to pay for
> them if they blew up
> that should say it all i think

Actually, in the late 60s and early 70s when everything was warranted for 5
years or 50K miles, the recommended oil change interval was 5000 to 7500
with a filter at every other change. The 3000 mile interval was most
recently popularized by Diesels and turbos which produce more contaminants
in one instance and have a high temperature bearing turning at extremely
high revolutions in the turbo unit.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:52:55 GMT
Subject: Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)

>It's more important that you DO the maintance that whether you if use
>synthetic or conventional oil.
>

Amen ... I'm runnin the dino juice in my truck's motor (5W30), mostly 'cause
it leaks still (stupid intake, I'll just weld it on, that ought to seal it up
right ?:)  Anyway I do run the synthetic in the car for a couple of reasons.


First the newer motors require a thinner oil (5W30) as spec ... the synthetics
seem to be thinner/runnier despite their same specs (5W30 Mobil 1) and the "stretched"
oil change intervals (my odometer keeps breaking though so I change it when
it looks dirty most of the time) ...

Second, though it may be slight, the less dino juice we use IN the motor, the
more we can burn right ?


As for the argument of oils breaking down and such at high temps ... anyone
else have the Jeremy Mayfield/Mobil1 commercial come to mind where "the oil
gauge was pegged at 340" and he still won?  (I was watching that race and they
made the comment during the race that he was dumping ice packs down his back
to keep cool) ... granted racers probably have their own special mixes, but
its still entertaining :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 09:53:03 -0400

The one addition I made to my beast is a homemade pre-luber. Changing the
oil religiously is gospel (unintended pun) but squirting it around before
start-up is just heavenly (I'm on a roll). Also if you look around you can
do it quite reasonably. I found a used 12V hydraulic pump/motor set-up for a
$100.00 (Canadian, which I think is $0.37 American now) and another thirty
dollars for hoses. I just hit the switch before start-up until the oil
pressure gauge shows about 20lbs and away you go. Nice after an oil change
because you can replenish all those empty galleries before cranking. I don't
think either dino or synthetic is wrong just buy a good oil filter(s),
change it regularly and give the pre-luber a try. OK, I'll get off my
soapbox now.

John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 10:04:28 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

At 10:09 PM 9/21/00, you wrote:
>25k oil changes is a mythe
>> perpetuated by money hungry oil companies.
>===============================================
>remember when engines first began being warranteed for 25,000 miles the auto
>companies said 6000 mile oil changes THEN they began 50,000 warrantys and
>then said 2 to 3000 mile oil changes seeing as how they now had to pay for
>them if they blew up
>that should say it all i think
>gordon

Recommended oil changes are still in the 5,000-7,500 mile
range for Fords (and I assume other makes but I don't own
any).  3,000 is recommended for hard/severe service.  Its
the oil change places that recommend 3,000 for all vehicles
because they stand to pocket the most money by this.

Ken



------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 07:11:01 -0700

Follow this link and Amazon.com will try to locate the book for you. It
shows in their catalog as out of print but they have quite a few used books
in their stores. It's worth a shot, won't cost you anything:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0931472121/qid=969631547/sr=1-69/002-
9636866-1496037

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lord" <thelord home.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 5:18 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel


> It is a good book i have it But the bad news it is no longer in print.
> I am in the process of scanning in whets left of my copy.
>




------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 10:05:11 -0400

One other note of interest while on this topic, Car Craft did a little test
on a FORD motor using Mobil 1's 0W30 and picked up a few extra ponies. Talk
about THIN oil. Makes water look like molasses but it stands up well and is
great for those of us in the snow belt.

John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 07:45:51 -0700

Found it online for $18.95. Here's the link:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cyberauto.com/cartech.htm

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lord" <thelord home.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 5:18 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel


> It is a good book i have it But the bad news it is no longer in print.
> I am in the process of scanning in whets left of my copy.
>
> John Webster wrote:
>
> > Greg,
> >     I good book that has lots of valuable info is "Propane Fuel
Conversions
> > for Automotive Engines" by S-A Designs, written by Jay Storer. It covers
> > building an engine for propane, dual-fuel, turbocharging ect.




------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 07:50:03 -0700

Reading from the "2000 Scheduled Maintenance Guide" (every FoMoCo vehicle
gets this book in the glovebox):

Normal Schedule
5,000 miles
Cars, minivans, light trucks, sport utilities, vans, 4x4, natural gas,
propane, and diesel vehicles:
Change engine oil and replace oil filter

Special Operating Conditions
Items needing special attention
If you operate your Ford/Lincoln/Mercury primarily (bolded) in one of the
more demanding "Special Operating Conditions" (bolded) you will need to have
some items maintained more frequently.  If you only occasionally (bolded)
operate your vehicle under these conditions, it is not necessary to perform
the additional maintenance.

Towing a trailer or using a camper or car top carrier
Extensive idling and/or low speed driving for long distances as in heavy
commercial use such as delivery, taxi, patrol car or livery
Operating in dusty conditions such as unpaved or dusty roads
3,000 miles - Change engine oil and replace oil filter


Look at it this way:  Over the course of 100,000 miles, a car maintained
with the normal schedule will require 20 oil changes.  One maintained with
the severe or "Special Operating Conditions" schedule will require 33 oil
changes.  Figure $25 each, its $500 (normal) vs. $825 (severe).  If you do
it yourself, the difference is even less.

Almost all of us operate our vehicles in those "Special Operating
Conditions" at least part of the time.  I prefer to err on the side of
caution, especially when we're talking such a small cost.  I won't let those
oil change places near my vehicles.

FWIW, I recently "retired" an '86 Celebrity with 377,000 miles on the
ORIGINAL 2.8 (not one of the General's better engines and the only internal
work done was replacing the timing set at around 250K)  Still ran
beautifully and passed California's emission test 1 month before the trans
died.  It had 3K changes all it's life.

Coincidence?  Maybe.  But I plan on keeping my current vehicles that long...
77 E150 - 124K
84 Continental - 117K

-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Payne [mailto:kpayne ford-trucks.com]
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 7:04 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

Recommended oil changes are still in the 5,000-7,500 mile
range for Fords (and I assume other makes but I don't own
any).  3,000 is recommended for hard/severe service.  Its
the oil change places that recommend 3,000 for all vehicles
because they stand to pocket the most money by this.

Ken


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Pre-Lubers
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 10:45:55 -0700

And if you really wanted to do it "Sano" you could hook up an oil pressure
switch so it only runs when there is no pressure.  An idiot light sender
might do the trick there :-)

Hook it up to the ignition switch so when you turn it on the preluber runs
until there is pressure and then it quits automatically.  If you want to run
it longer, on a timed basis, you can add a flip flop timer in the circuit
similar to those auto head lights that stay on for a few minutes.  You never
have to think about it again and you can put an LED in the circuit so you
know when it runs etc....

This set up would eliminate the need to prefill the filters and you could
safely take it to a Jiffy Lube this way too :-)  You could even set it up so
the ignition won't work until there is pressure......shall I go on? :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> dollars for hoses. I just hit the switch before start-up until the oil
> pressure gauge shows about 20lbs and away you go. Nice after an


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 07:51:40 -0700

Here's an interesting link with all kinds of stuff about propane
conversions. Unfortunately most of the books are out of print now.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.omega23.com/data_center_1/Propane.html


"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"




------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 11:36:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Grease removal

I've found that almost nothing beats heavy duty oven cleaner.  It will eat
through anything.  I use it all over my shop for different cleaning
aplications.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:35:28 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Clean gas tank...

I knew I could count on all of you...I'm getting some good ideas, but I
think if I tried them all, I may have an explosion...

Tim, have you ever worried about the sparks created by the friction of
the metal-against-metal?  Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I knew a kid in
my home town who played around with an empty gas tank....once...

I have the Eastwood catalog folded to the page with the gas treatment
and will probably go with that, or this POR-15 I read so much about from
this group...I probably need some of that just to have in my garage...


Thanks to all for the ideas...and if you have any more, just keep them
coming...

Tim Bowman wrote:
>
> Here's a recipe I've used:
>
> Put on a set of hearing protection, drop a length of chain inside of the
> tank, shake liberally, dump the contents, repeat the process several
> times.  Add chemical cleaners as desired and then treat with a gas tank
> sealer like what Eastwood sells.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:37:57 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize



SHill48337 aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/20/00 11:09:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> sch8489 garnet.acns.fsu.edu writes:
>
> << this attitude is *exactly* the one amsoil is trying to sell you.  for god's
>  sake, where'd you get this?   >>
>
> Well, my engineering background and understanding of the specifications of
> Mobil-1  ...

That was soooo beautiful...so understated...so convincing...Burt, I'm
proud to say you live in Kennewick...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:50:33 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize



John Webster wrote:
>
> The one addition I made to my beast is a homemade pre-luber. <snipped the puns> I found a used 12V hydraulic pump/motor set-up

I'm interested in reading a little more detail of how/where you hooked
this thing up..Tell us more...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:53:35 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize



Ken Payne wrote:

>
> Recommended oil changes are still in the 5,000-7,500 mile
> range for Fords (and I assume other makes but I don't own
> any).  3,000 is recommended for hard/severe service.  Its
> the oil change places that recommend 3,000 for all vehicles
> because they stand to pocket the most money by this.


My, er, uh, D*r*ngo came with free oil change every 3000 miles for as
long as I own the vehicle...Protects me and protects them...

I just wish I could use it on every other vehicle I own...

------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Update on the 400
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 09:11:30 -0700

Well I just stepped up and plunked down $500 for some Jet Hot coated Hooker
Super Comps for the 400, which BTW is still sitting on my engine stand in
the garage. I've also made the decision to pull off the rockers and remove
the inner valve spring for the initial cam break in. Several people I've
talked to as well as both Crower and Crane recommend this so I think it's
probably the best idea. Just wish I'd thought about it before the machinist
installed the valves! Oh well...the good new is I get to buy another tool!

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"




------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: pondering my door panels...
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 17:26:16 GMT

I recently acquired some "new" door panels off a '79 XLT with the wood grain
insert.  I pulled the inserts out to recover them, and broke a couple of the
plastic "studs/dowels" off.  They had those push-on retainer washers that go
on real easy, but don't come off without cutting them apart.  I need to
replace the dowels and get new retainers, I'd rather find a better way to
hold it, I hate those retainers.  The hard part is the outside will be
upholstered, making it inaccessible.  Has anyone used small bolts, just
finger tight?  Any ideas?  I would appreciated any if you have them.

Thanks.

Marty
(I'm on digest, so I'm a little slow on the rebound.)
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------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Pre-Lubers
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:27:50 -0400

And I thought I was doing well with a toggle switch! I know the pre-packaged
pre-luber has all those wonderful features but I'm more the KISS principle
type. As far as a hook-up; I mounted the pump/motor assembly on the
passenger side frame rail, the suction line tee's off the oil pan (with a
capped drain) to the pump suction and then from there it discharges up to
the rear oil gallery where your oil pressure switch would be. I used
hydraulic hose and fittings (overkill) and you could use a quick disconnect
for the discharge line for speedy oil changes, ect. For wiring I ran it from
my aux. battery to a solenoid. Everything looks very neat and tidy and other
than drawing curious looks when I go to start up its fine. Of course the
pump is far quieter then the 460 barking through the flowmasters.
<And if you really wanted to do it "Sano" you could hook up an oil pressure
<switch so it only runs when there is no pressure.  An idiot light sender
<might do the trick there :-)

<Hook it up to the ignition switch so when you turn it on the preluber runs
<until there is pressure and then it quits automatically.  If you want to ....


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