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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:16:15 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:16:15 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #254 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Thu, 21 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 254 In This Issue: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Re: '74 390 rebuild Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Re: One of the smartest things I have ever done..... Clean gas tank... Re: Clean gas tank... New addition to my Ford collection. Oil in water Re: Gas Tanks Re: '74 390 rebuild Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze) Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Re: Oil in water Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize 390 motor Re: 390 motor Re: 390 motor Raceway Park (Englishtown New Jersey) Swapmeet Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Subscription to forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-b ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 04:22:24 -0400 > diesels are far and away harder on oil than any gas engine. that's the > reason for all the extra oil and *huge* filter(s). and they still get > nastified inside. ======================================================== Thats Right and if you can get close to a million miles on one of them before needing rebuilt on regular oil WHY use synthetic i was working for a company not long ago that was trying this new oil they had nothing but trouble with their new trucks busted cranks messed up bearings and allot of other stuff they never did pinpoint it to the oil BUT ive never seen so many engines run so poorly and so messed up in my life in trucks as they had YES they were trying to go that 25,000 mile oil change interval to and it was costing them a bundle in other ways gordon ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: '74 390 rebuild Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 04:28:15 -0400 > Finally, once I find and cure the leak, how best to clean the cooling > system of the oily residue? > >> ======================================================= i always use either muriatic acid or drano to clean cooling systems just be sure you have no aluminum parts in it tho like a thermostat it will get it shiny clean even in the radiator and when done drain and flush the system a few times and on the final drain stick a bottle of vineager in it to neautralize any acid thats left in it then run for a little while and drain again and refill with antifreeze gordon ------------------------------ From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 07:18:48 -0500 yup, everything is humongous too! Sometimes I work on our IH trucks when stuff happens. I found out one of the oil filters we use on one of our tractor trucks fits my 240, but is like twice as long as the stock one. If anyone wants a part #, I can give it to ya. -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Scott Hall
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 1:33 AM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize diesels are far and away harder on oil than any gas engine. that's the reason for all the extra oil and *huge* filter(s). and they still get nastified inside. ever crack open a big rig engine? ugh. that soot is toxic, too. scott On Thu, 21 Sep 2000 SevnD2 aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 09/20/2000 10:08:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > flash1 alltel.net writes:
> > << ME i have run 15 w 40 shell rotella dino oil and have gotten over 900,000 > miles out of engines before needing rebuilt or new bearings even SO really > just a 100,000 isnt a whole lot with all things considered BUT i use cummins > or wick filters and go 12,000 between oil changes on them and allot of times > >> > > Sounds like you have a completely different engine there. Aren't you talking > about a heavy duty diesel engine? It is in a class all it's own. No > comparison to what has been mentioned about using synthetics in gas engines. > Your engine holds about 44 quarts of oil and has an oil filter about twice > the size of what our Fords are using. Lets not forget the oil cooler on your > big rig there too. Next to none of our old Fords have an oil cooler. > > I recommend synthetics in gas engines! > > Rollie H. Hunt > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 08:44:22 -0700 What they over look, due to the force of the "hype" and the desire to have that illusive fountain of youth, is that the oil gets contaminated, chemically, with water, acid and other byproducts of combustion which the filter can not do anything about. Your oil still needs to be changed every 3-5k miles regardless of what kind it is. 25k oil changes is a mythe perpetuated by money hungry oil companies. The synthetic does not alter the chemical contamination one iota. As mentioned, the synthetic protects the engine under severe duty such as in racing and prevents "mechanical" breakdown under high loads and also prevents metal to metal contact with such additives as Zink. Unless you drag race your truck or car you don't actually need this kind of protection but.........one nice thing it does for us is give us smoother cold weather starts with less engine wear on warm up due to it's natural multigrade properties with fewer additives required and saves the starter and batteries in winter a little bit. It also has a much higher flash point so it nice to use with turbos. Big rigs have large capacities because engine cooling is approximately 75% oil circulation and 25% coolant. If either one fails or is not adequate you over heat but on diesels the heat produced is much greater per/cuin than in any car or truck we will ever use so the added capacity of oil is for "Cooling" not longevity :-) They still need to change the oil fairly often and 25k will never be an option due to the above unless they add an oil distillery on to the truck to re-manufacture it as you drive :-) Larger filters are probably due to some oil "Coking" due to heat which can produce crystal like carbon formations which can actually be filtered out. In that one respect synthetics would be superior but as already stated, apparently not needed even here :-) The other reason larger filters are needed is to assure sufficient oil flow with the increased oil capacity and flow the diesels have for cooling purposes etc... Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > > diesels are far and away harder on oil than any gas engine. that's the > > reason for all the extra oil and *huge* filter(s). and they still get > > nastified inside. > trucks as they had YES they were trying to go that 25,000 mile oil change > interval to and it was costing them a bundle in other ways ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: One of the smartest things I have ever done..... Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 09:15:38 -0700 Been there, done that, doesn't work too well...... Brass still corrodes, believe it or not and is very soft so the threads deteriorate very quickly. The nuts need to be replaced nearly every time you remove them for reliability. I use steel now and coat them liberally with anti-seize. In time they will still rust on the outside and the flats may deteriorate but this takes some time even with ordinary steel. I think a better choice, though still softer than grade 8 steel, is stainless. I would never use stainless lugs or studs or bolts due to their softness, but stainless nuts, insulated with anti-seize would be a good compromise I think. These will still have to be replaced occasionally if you take your truck apart very often, more often than grade 8 stuff which seems to wear forever if it doesn't rust out. Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > also if you use the stud trick--put brass nuts on them,they will come off > easier too. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 06:20:43 -0700 From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Clean gas tank... Well, this should start an interesting thread...I'm getting ready to clean a gas tank that's got about 15 years of rust and crud built up in it...Any good/innovative (easy) ideas? I'm counting on you guys and gals... ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Clean gas tank... Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 06:40:12 -0700 I posed this question on this board 2 years ago and someone suggested muriatic acid (about $4 for 2 gallons at the store - used for swimming pools). I tried it and it worked pretty well. Let it soak in there for a couple days (slosh it around every so often) and then flush it out. After I did that, I took it to the local self-serve car wash (if you have access to a pressure washer, that would work too) and blasted the inside as best I could with the nozzle and blew an awful lot of crap out. I run a large clear plastic filter (Fram G12) right after the tank and check it often. At first, I changed it once a month, now it's more like 6 months. -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Pearson [mailto:dpearson ctc.edu]
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 6:21 AM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Clean gas tank... Well, this should start an interesting thread...I'm getting ready to clean a gas tank that's got about 15 years of rust and crud built up in it...Any good/innovative (easy) ideas? I'm counting on you guys and gals... ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:18:21 -0500 From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: New addition to my Ford collection. Good Mornign to all. I am a long time list member and lurker. I post every once and a while. I just thought that I would let everyone know that I just purchased an all original 1954 F-100 from California. I have been looking for a 53-56 Ford for a long time. I can't wait to get it home. It will be shipped into a terminal around here and I will have to pick it up there with either my Crewcab or my Supercab (List content :>)). Steve S 77 F-250 Supercab 76 F-350 Crewcab 54 F-100 WOOOOHOOOO http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/ ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Oil in water Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 09:21:25 -0500 Howard B. writes: >>I just rebuilt and installed a 390 in my '74 F250. It has been in for about a month now, and I have put just over 500 miles on it so far. Runs great, except it looks like I am getting oil in the coolant. No water in the oil, but seem like lots of oil in the water. What are the odds that the oil is leaking in the intake or head gasket? I used Fel pro blue intake and head gaskets, and added a bead of silicone around the water ports on the intake side of the head and intake. Changing the intake gaskets isn't so bad, I really hate to pull the heads. Any quick check to determine if it is the intake or heads?? Also, would this problem cause the engine to run hot at highway speeds? Seems like it heats up above 55-60 mph (not sure of RPM, no tach yet) Finally, once I find and cure the leak, how best to clean the cooling system of the oily residue?<< Is your truck an automatic or manual?? Reason I ask is that if it is automatic, then you may be getting transmission fluid in the radiator by having a sand(rust) hole inside the radiator in the transmission line.. Run your favorite laundry detergent through the cooling system for several minutes with the engine running to disolve the oil and then flush several times to remove any and all soapy residue. May have to use the detergent more than once and will surely have to flush several times. Oily film in radiator will cause overheating if your system is marginal to begin with. (Poorer heat transfer). Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Gas Tanks Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:39:15 -0700 Muriatic acid is a hydrochloric acid dilution so needs soda to neutralize it. Draino is Potassium Chloride which is a "Base" and needs acid to neutralize it. Vinager is an acid so works well with drano but not Muriatic acid although the acid may work on the other ingredients in the vinager and so be neutralized to some degree, not sure about that. Rinsing with a good, strong degreaser would work well to neutralize acids since these are chemically "Basic". This primarily relates to the "PH" of the cleaners used, 7 being neutral. BTW, just bought a gallon of Zep "Purple" cleaner to try on my grease spots in the barn. Heard it worked well for that? Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > i always use either muriatic acid or drano to clean cooling systems just be > sure you have no aluminum parts in it tho like a thermostat > it will get it shiny clean even in the radiator and when done drain and > flush the system a few times and on the final drain stick a bottle of > vineager in it to neautralize any acid ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: '74 390 rebuild Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:43:40 -0700 The faster you go the hotter the engine gets due to more heat being produced. If the cooling system is marginal then at some point in the work load range it will begin to be inadequate and over heating results. Anything that compromises the cooling system efficiency can cause this to happen. You will have trouble towing, running off road at slow ground speeds in low gears and at higher cruise speeds on the highway due to this. Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > << Also, would this problem cause the engine to run hot at highway speeds? > Seems like it heats up above 55-60 mph (not sure of RPM, no tach yet) ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:47:54 -0700 Just curious......what was this truck used for? I change oil at 5k as a matter of convenience, use Mobil1 and MotorCraft filters. It's convenient because I also rotate my tires at this time and this would get tedious at 3k intervals so I "risk" engine life to make my life a little more convenient :-) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > I can add to this. The 331 industrial (based on the FE) out of our F-600 is ------------------------------ From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 07:58:35 -0700 Your motor will last just fine with regular oil changes with conventional oil.....Look at how many Fords are still out their with 2-300,000 miles on them. It's more important that you DO the maintance that whether you if use synthetic or conventional oil. -----Original Message----- From: Garrett Nelson [mailto:garrettnelson writeme.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 8:43 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze) I am interested in who proved them to be a waste of money. That is an opinion. It has been proven they provide better protection than conventional oils. Whether it is worth the extra money is up to you. I decided it was, and I am running Mobil 1 full synthetic in my truck. It's expensive, but I want my engine to last. ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: G & J Boling To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 5:22 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Anti-Seize Oh I > forgot, some of you insist on running synthetic oil, too... ===================================================== really its been pretty much PROVEN that synthetic oil is a WASTE of money seeing as how much it costs and the oil change intervals are the same as petroleum oils your better off with the old style stuff and just change it every 2 or 3 thousand miles with a new filter and still save money in the long run gordon ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 08:02:40 -0700 I'm willin to bet it was a crappy rebuild job that caused this motor to blow after on 20K miles and not the onventional oil. Josh -----Original Message----- From: JUMPINFORD aol.com [mailto:JUMPINFORD aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 5:55 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize I can add to this. The 331 industrial (based on the FE) out of our F-600 is just about to come out of the machine shop. The first motor lasted 20k miles, and blew as a result of a broken crank. The 2nd motor went after 40k miles, and threw a rod. This last motor was at 117k miles when the timing got to far out to run, due to a worn keyway on the crank for the timing gears. This says nothing for the amount of hours the engine runs while working the PTO for the vacuum pump. The machinist told me that had the keyway slot not been so far damaged (it was an extra 1/8 inch wide) that I could've just polished it and reran it. The block only had slight taper and the pistons were only lightly scuffed. I was able to pull them without a ridge reamer. The cylinder walls still had honing marks in them. The only part of the engine that had any serious wear were the camshaft lobes, and they looked good considering. The inside of this motor was also extremely clean. Absolutely NO black oily residue. What was inside stuck to everything was just as golden as new oil. Our secret to this long life was 15w50 Mobil 1. And one more thing. We didn't do a change every 3000 miles, we did it every 5000 miles. Plus all the extra hours! When the oil was changed it still felt like oil, and not like the runny garbage standard oil feels like after 3000. We changed it at 5000 simply because we live in a dusty environment, and by that time we felt it was a good precaution against abnormal wear. Darrell & Tweety ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 08:11:45 -0700 No oil cooler...I'll bet I'm not the only on here with one Josh -----Original Message----- From: SevnD2 aol.com [mailto:SevnD2 aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 10:45 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize In a message dated 09/20/2000 10:08:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, flash1 alltel.net writes:
<< ME i have run 15 w 40 shell rotella dino oil and have gotten over 900,000 miles out of engines before needing rebuilt or new bearings even SO really just a 100,000 isnt a whole lot with all things considered BUT i use cummins or wick filters and go 12,000 between oil changes on them and allot of times >> Sounds like you have a completely different engine there. Aren't you talking about a heavy duty diesel engine? It is in a class all it's own. No comparison to what has been mentioned about using synthetics in gas engines. Your engine holds about 44 quarts of oil and has an oil filter about twice the size of what our Fords are using. Lets not forget the oil cooler on your big rig there too. Next to none of our old Fords have an oil cooler. I recommend synthetics in gas engines! Rollie H. Hunt ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 11:16:41 EDT Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize In a message dated 9/21/00 7:52:34 AM Pacific Daylight Time, gpeters3 lni.net
writes: << Just curious......what was this truck used for? >> Its a 1600 gallon vacuum truck. Were the friendly neighborhood septic guys.... Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:20:02 -0500 From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: Re: Oil in water > The tranny is manual (T-18) and new radiator (3 row), pump and thermostat. 390 has been > bored .040 over. I also have the fan shroud and a Ford 6 blade flex fan. What kind of > detergent and about how much to use? THanks Howardb > > > Is your truck an automatic or manual?? Reason I ask is that if it is automatic, then > you may be getting transmission fluid in the radiator by having a sand(rust) hole > inside the radiator in the transmission line.. > > Run your favorite laundry detergent through the cooling system for several minutes > with the engine running to disolve the oil and then flush several times to remove > any and all soapy residue. May have to use the detergent more than once and > will surely have to flush several times. > Oily film in radiator will cause overheating if your system is marginal to begin with. > (Poorer heat transfer). > ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 11:21:10 EDT Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize In a message dated 9/21/00 8:02:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Josh.Nichols svseeds.com writes:
<< I'm willin to bet it was a crappy rebuild job that caused this motor to blow after on 20K miles and not the onventional oil. >> Actually it was the original motor, and no, I dont think it was caused by conventional oil, but believe it was a factory casting flaw in the crank itself. It was the 2nd motor that could have gotten a crappy build. I dont know, I didnt build it. But like I said, mileage is only part of the story. The truck runs approx half the day while parked so as to power the vacuum pump. And about 99% of the mileage we accumulate is stop and go city traffic that Vegas seems to be acquiring from LA. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:04:34 -0500 From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: 390 motor Regarding the bog off idle: I did not mess with the accelerator pump cam. All I did was change the squirters in the throat of the carb up a couple of sizes. (It did help, but not enough.) I did check to see if the acclerator pump spring preload was adjusted properly, and according to the directions I had from a Holley book, it was. Another clue: I changed to a manual choke to get more control of the warm up period and richness does cure the bog off idle. This is encouraging to me. Is there any point in trying to richen up the idle mixture? Got any suggestions for an approach to systematically going after this problem? Thanks, Doss Halsey '68 F250 Camper Special '72 F250 Camper Special >>The intake manifold is about a 1968 4V manifold (the port sizes do match up >>to my heads). The Holley is a 600cfm 4160 derivative. It is marketed at >>"emissions legal for '72". I think the number is 5184. (perhaps this is the >>culprit; there is still a bog off idle that I can't seem to get out. I have >>even upped the pump shot two sizes) And yes, sea level. > > >just how did you "up-the-pump-shot"? Did you use the pump >cams under the accelerator pump reservoir, or did you change the "squirters" >in the throat of the carb. Did you check to make sure the spring "pre-load" >on the accelerator pump lever was set correctly? It should be set to about >"1/2 turn toward the pump arm" after contacting the pump arm, after curb >idle is set. > >Just some thoughts, >John ------------------------------ From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: 390 motor Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:30:10 -0700 When you changed to a manual choke, did you trade carbs, or convert the existing carb from auto to manual? If you converted a Holley carb to manual choke, you must plug the vacuum passage for the auto choke. The auto/manual conversion kit from Holley comes with lead ball to plug the vacuum passage. If you didn't block this passage then you will have a vacuum leak. Michael ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Regarding the bog off idle: I did not mess with the accelerator pump cam. > All I did was change the squirters in the throat of the carb up a couple of > sizes. (It did help, but not enough.) I did check to see if the acclerator > pump spring preload was adjusted properly, and according to the directions > I had from a Holley book, it was. > > Another clue: I changed to a manual choke to get more control of the warm > up period and richness does cure the bog off idle. This is encouraging to > me. Is there any point in trying to richen up the idle mixture? Got any > suggestions for an approach to systematically going after this problem? > > Thanks, > > Doss Halsey > '68 F250 Camper Special > '72 F250 Camper Special > > >>The intake manifold is about a 1968 4V manifold (the port sizes do match up > >>to my heads). The Holley is a 600cfm 4160 derivative. It is marketed at > >>"emissions legal for '72". I think the number is 5184. (perhaps this is the > >>culprit; there is still a bog off idle that I can't seem to get out. I have > >>even upped the pump shot two sizes) And yes, sea level. ------------------------------ From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: 390 motor Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:43:39 -0700 The accelerator pump cam on a Holley is mounted on the primary throttle shaft, not under the pump reservoir. There is not a "preload" when adjusting the accelerator pump linkage. Once the curb idle is set, you simply remove all slack from the accelerator pump linkage using the spring loaded nut & bolt. "Super Tuning and Modifying Holley Carburetors" by Dave Emanuel ISBN# "0-931472-08-3". Michael ~~~~~~~~~~~ > >just how did you "up-the-pump-shot"? Did you use the pump > >cams under the accelerator pump reservoir, or did you change the "squirters" > >in the throat of the carb. Did you check to make sure the spring "pre-load" > >on the accelerator pump lever was set correctly? It should be set to about > >"1/2 turn toward the pump arm" after contacting the pump arm, after curb > >idle is set. > > > >Just some thoughts, > >John ------------------------------ From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 20:04:26 EDT Subject: Raceway Park (Englishtown New Jersey) Swapmeet Hey all....The Raceway Park Swapmeet is being held in Englishtown, New Jersey from Friday to Sunday this weekend. I sold three Dana 60 front axels before I even unloaded the truck!! The same guy bought 2 Ford 60's and the last Chevy 60 that I had. Got $500 for each axel...best part is that I get it for 1/5th of that. Haha!! Cannot beat a friend that works at a junkyard.....thats for sure. Anyway.....I did not have alot of room as an uncle's motor home is in the driveway, and I could not part out the 2 F-250 4x4's that I have. I'll have them for parts in a few weeks. ANYWAY....If anybody is interested, stop by and BS for a while. My spot numbers are K5 thru K10...just ask for Wayne. Later!!! Wayne ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 20:46:08 EDT Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize In a message dated 9/20/00 10:09:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time, derrar internetcds.com writes:
<< What brands are you referring as "good synthetics"? Jason >> In my opinion Mobil-1 and AMS/OIL are the ones I consider "good synthetics". This is based on my past and present use of both oils for over 22 years. I run AMS/OIL in my newer equipment, ie 99 Taurus, and Mobil-1 in my 93 Berretta, 172,000 miles. My 1972 F-250 will have AMS/OIL in it after it is broken in. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:09:11 -0400 25k oil changes is a mythe > perpetuated by money hungry oil companies. =============================================== remember when engines first began being warranteed for 25,000 miles the auto companies said 6000 mile oil changes THEN they began 50,000 warrantys and then said 2 to 3000 mile oil changes seeing as how they now had to pay for them if they blew up that should say it all i think gordon ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:16:06 -0400 From: admin ford-trucks.com
Subject: Subscription to forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-b Following are new messages posted in the Ford Truck Enthusiasts message board forums. If you have any questions, please use the contact form on the web site. To remove your subscription, visit our Message Board at www.ford-trucks.com, login, view any forum and click the subscription link. If you are subscribed to any of our mailing lists, you receive this message automatically as part of that subscription and it can only be disabled by unsubscribing from the mailing list. Messages posted in 1961-1979 Ford trucks =========================================================== "RE: 9" Posted by 390fe on 09/20/2000 22:49:55 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3794.html#5 "RE: Homebrew" Posted by Kenny on 09/20/2000 23:13:52 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3788.html#9 "portioning valve" Posted by ford429cu on 09/20/2000 23:14:40 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3811.html#0 "RE: T-bird parts fit my truck?" Posted by hpguy on 09/20/2000 23:40:41 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3804.html#1 "RE: Is This Possible?? (notes from '64 shop manual)" Posted by rdscofield on 09/20/2000 23:41:37 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3787.html#7 "RE: Is This Possible?? (notes from '64 shop manual)" Posted by hpguy on 09/20/2000 23:46:03 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3787.html#8 "RE: Supercharger" Posted by 390GT on 09/21/2000 00:19:58 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3807.html#4 "RE: 390 to 460 swap" Posted by 390GT on 09/21/2000 00:26:49 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3808.html#1 "Just need an opinion or two with this one..." Posted by hpguy on 09/21/2000 00:35:23 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3812.html#0 "Just need an opinion or two with this one..." Posted by hpguy on 09/21/2000 00:41:03 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3813.html#0 "RE: fire," Posted by elsmith on 09/21/2000 01:02:56 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3802.html#4 "RE: I almost burned my garage down last Friday night. F150/390" Posted by DBF on 09/21/2000 02:38:59 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3802.html#5 "RE: No Valve train damage" Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 07:24:38 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3788.html#10 "RE: 390 to 460 swap" Posted by Huggy Bear on 09/21/2000 08:12:34 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3808.html#2 "RE: Just need an opinion or two with this one..." Posted by dust3 on 09/21/2000 08:36:04 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3813.html#1 "79 F150 tranny interchange" Posted by 4x4ranger on 09/21/2000 09:11:54 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#0 "RE: Supercharger" Posted by dave186 on 09/21/2000 09:30:35 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3807.html#5 "RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange" Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 10:06:04 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#1 "RE: 390 to 460 swap Bolt Patterns" Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 10:14:23 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3808.html#3 "RE: thanks" Posted by rick on 09/21/2000 11:11:41 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3774.html#9 "RE: I almost burned my garage down last Friday night. F150/390" Posted by rusty68 on 09/21/2000 11:37:44 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3802.html#6 "RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange" Posted by 4x4ranger on 09/21/2000 11:39:38 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#2 "RE: 4x4 in Salt Lake City!" Posted by 73f100 on 09/21/2000 12:39:44 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3810.html#1 "RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange" Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 13:00:10 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#3 "RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange" Posted by 4fords on 09/21/2000 13:44:54 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#4 "Window Seals Needed" Posted by heavymetal on 09/21/2000 14:13:13 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3815.html#0 "RE: Just need an opinion or two with this one..." Posted by DAV1972 on 09/21/2000 14:32:48 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3813.html#2 "1972 F250 4x4 w/ 3" Body Lift" Posted by fruck on 09/21/2000 14:38:14 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3816.html#0 "'77 crewcab--newbie" Posted by idahocrewcab on 09/21/2000 14:47:57 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#0 "T-case,NP435" Posted by dinosaurfan on 09/21/2000 15:06:02 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#1 "RE: 1972 F250 4x4 w/ 3" Posted by dinosaurfan on 09/21/2000 15:14:53 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3816.html#1 "RE: Just need an opinion or two with this one..." Posted by rdscofield on 09/21/2000 15:51:04 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3813.html#3 "RE: Supercharger" Posted by BBB on 09/21/2000 16:06:26 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3807.html#6 "RE: 390 motor mounts" Posted by dinosaurfan on 09/21/2000 16:12:19 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3795.html#1 "RE: T-bird parts fit my truck?" Posted by skip4274 on 09/21/2000 17:07:35 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3804.html#2 "RE: 1972 F250 4x4 w/ 3" Posted by RRL'78 on 09/21/2000 17:20:12 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3816.html#2 "RE: Supercharger" Posted by dave186 on 09/21/2000 17:23:47 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3807.html#7 "RE: Window Seals Needed" Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 17:27:33 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3815.html#1 "RE: T-case,NP435" Posted by dave186 on 09/21/2000 17:28:49 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#2 "RE: T-case,NP435" Posted by idahocrewcab on 09/21/2000 17:39:51 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#3 "RE: T-case,NP435" Posted by idahocrewcab on 09/21/2000 17:42:01 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#4 "RE: T-case,NP435" Posted by 1977rangerxlt on 09/21/2000 18:46:37 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#5 "Please Help Doors..." Posted by o2bad on 09/21/2000 19:21:42 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3818.html#0 "RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange" Posted by Kenny on 09/21/2000 19:29:49 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#5 "RE: Please Help Doors..." Posted by Kenny on 09/21/2000 19:45:56 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3818.html#1 "RE: 9" Posted by gkk2001 on 09/21/2000 19:47:28 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3794.html#6 "RE: portioning valve" Posted by sparky on 09/21/2000 19:51:35 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3811.html#1 "RE: Rearend ID?" Posted by gkk2001 on 09/21/2000 20:05:44 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3761.html#8 "RE: Window Seals Needed" Posted by dust3 on 09/21/2000 20:32:30 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3815.html#2 "RE: Supercharger" Posted by BBB on 09/21/2000 20:45:39 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3807.html#8 "RE: T-case,NP435" Posted by dave186 on 09/21/2000 20:51:26 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#6 "RE: 390 to 460 swap" Posted by fuzz on 09/21/2000 20:59:24 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3808.html#4 "RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange" Posted by 4x4ranger on 09/21/2000 21:03:50 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#6 "66F-100 Gas Question!" Posted by volleyball33 on 09/21/2000 21:08:08 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3819.html#0 "Rear Brakes ID? help please" Posted by gkk2001 on 09/21/2000 21:12:30 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3820.html#0 "Ring gear ratio with AOD??" Posted by gkk2001 on 09/21/2000 21:16:40 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3821.html#0 "67 Custom Cab" Posted by StockMan on 09/21/2000 21:18:29 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3808.html#5 "RE: Just need an opinion or two with this one..." Posted by gkk2001 on 09/21/2000 21:21:22 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3813.html#4 "RE: Rearend ID?" Posted by StockMan on 09/21/2000 21:27:47 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3761.html#9 "RE: Ring gear ratio with AOD??" Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 21:30:54 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3821.html#1 "Help!!!" Posted by volleyball33 on 09/21/2000 21:40:20 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3822.html#0 "RE: 66F-100 Gas Question!" Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 21:44:33 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3819.html#1 "Engine ID" Posted by StockMan on 09/21/2000 21:45:52 .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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