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61-79-list Digest Thu, 21 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 254

In This Issue:
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: '74 390 rebuild
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: One of the smartest things I have ever done.....
Clean gas tank...
Re: Clean gas tank...
New addition to my Ford collection.
Oil in water
Re: Gas Tanks
Re: '74 390 rebuild
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Oil in water
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
390 motor
Re: 390 motor
Re: 390 motor
Raceway Park (Englishtown New Jersey) Swapmeet
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Subscription to forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-b

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 04:22:24 -0400





> diesels are far and away harder on oil than any gas engine.  that's the
> reason for all the extra oil and *huge* filter(s).  and they still get
> nastified inside.
========================================================
Thats Right and if you can get close to a million miles on one of them
before needing rebuilt on regular oil WHY use synthetic
i was working for a company not long ago that was trying this new oil they
had nothing but trouble with their new trucks busted cranks messed up
bearings and allot of other stuff they never did pinpoint it to the oil BUT
ive never seen so many engines run so poorly and so messed up in my life in
trucks as they had YES they were trying to go that 25,000 mile oil change
interval to and it was costing them a bundle in other ways
gordon



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: '74 390 rebuild
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 04:28:15 -0400


> Finally, once I find and cure the leak, how best to clean the cooling
> system of the oily residue?
>  >>
=======================================================
i always use either muriatic acid or drano to clean cooling systems just be
sure you have no aluminum parts in it tho like a thermostat
it will get it shiny clean even in the radiator and when done drain and
flush the system a few times and on the final drain stick a bottle of
vineager in it to neautralize any acid thats left in it then run for a
little while and drain again and refill with antifreeze
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 07:18:48 -0500

yup, everything is humongous too! Sometimes I work on our IH trucks when
stuff happens. I found out one of the oil filters we use on one of our
tractor trucks fits my 240, but is like twice as long as the stock one. If
anyone wants a part #, I can give it to ya.

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Scott Hall
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 1:33 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize


diesels are far and away harder on oil than any gas engine.  that's the
reason for all the extra oil and *huge* filter(s).  and they still get
nastified inside.

ever crack open a big rig engine?  ugh.  that soot is toxic, too.

scott

On Thu, 21 Sep 2000 SevnD2 aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 09/20/2000 10:08:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> flash1 alltel.net writes:
>
> << ME i have run 15 w 40 shell rotella dino oil and have gotten over
900,000
>  miles  out of engines before needing rebuilt or new bearings even SO
really
>  just a 100,000 isnt a whole lot with all things considered BUT i use
cummins
>  or wick filters and go 12,000 between oil changes on them and allot of
times
> >>
>
> Sounds like you have a completely different engine there. Aren't you
talking
> about a heavy duty diesel engine? It is in a class all it's own. No
> comparison to what has been mentioned about using synthetics in gas
engines.
> Your engine holds about 44 quarts of oil and has an oil filter about twice
> the size of what our Fords are using. Lets not forget the oil cooler on
your
> big rig there too. Next to none of our old Fords have an oil cooler.
>
> I recommend synthetics in gas engines!
>
> Rollie H. Hunt
> =============================================================
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------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 08:44:22 -0700

What they over look, due to the force of the "hype" and the desire to have
that illusive fountain of youth, is that the oil gets contaminated,
chemically, with water,  acid and other byproducts of combustion which the
filter can not do anything about.  Your oil still needs to be changed every
3-5k miles regardless of what kind it is.  25k oil changes is a mythe
perpetuated by money hungry oil companies.

The synthetic does not alter the chemical contamination one iota.  As
mentioned, the synthetic protects the engine under severe duty such as in
racing and prevents "mechanical" breakdown under high loads and also
prevents metal to metal contact with such additives as Zink.  Unless you
drag race your truck or car you don't actually need this kind of protection
but.........one nice thing it does for us is give us smoother cold weather
starts with less engine wear on warm up due to it's natural multigrade
properties with fewer additives required and saves the starter and batteries
in winter a little bit.  It also has a much higher flash point so it nice to
use with turbos.

Big rigs have large capacities because engine cooling is approximately 75%
oil circulation and 25% coolant.  If either one fails or is not adequate you
over heat but on diesels the heat produced is much greater per/cuin than in
any car or truck we will ever use so the added capacity of oil is for
"Cooling" not longevity :-)  They still need to change the oil fairly often
and 25k will never be an option due to the above unless they add an oil
distillery on to the truck to re-manufacture it as you drive :-)

Larger filters are probably due to some oil "Coking" due to heat which can
produce crystal like carbon formations which can actually be filtered out.
In that one respect synthetics would be superior but as already stated,
apparently not needed even here :-)  The other reason larger filters are
needed is to assure sufficient oil flow with the increased oil capacity and
flow the diesels have for cooling purposes etc...

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> > diesels are far and away harder on oil than any gas engine.  that's the
> > reason for all the extra oil and *huge* filter(s).  and they still get
> > nastified inside.

> trucks as they had YES they were trying to go that 25,000 mile oil change
> interval to and it was costing them a bundle in other ways



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: One of the smartest things I have ever done.....
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 09:15:38 -0700

Been there, done that, doesn't work too well...... Brass still corrodes,
believe it or not and is very soft so the threads deteriorate very quickly.
The nuts need to be replaced nearly every time you remove them for
reliability.  I use steel now and coat  them liberally with anti-seize.  In
time they will still rust on the outside and the flats may deteriorate but
this takes some time even with ordinary steel.  I think a better choice,
though still softer than grade 8 steel, is stainless.  I would never use
stainless lugs or studs or bolts due to their softness, but stainless nuts,
insulated with anti-seize would be a good compromise I think.  These will
still have to be replaced occasionally if you take your truck apart very
often, more often than grade 8 stuff which seems to wear forever if it
doesn't rust out.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> also if you use the stud trick--put brass nuts on them,they will come off
> easier too.



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 06:20:43 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Clean gas tank...



Well, this should start an interesting thread...I'm getting ready to
clean a gas tank that's got about 15 years of rust and crud built up in
it...Any good/innovative (easy) ideas?

I'm counting on you guys and gals...

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Clean gas tank...
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 06:40:12 -0700

I posed this question on this board 2 years ago and someone suggested
muriatic acid (about $4 for 2 gallons at the store - used for swimming
pools).  I tried it and it worked pretty well.   Let it soak in there for a
couple days (slosh it around every so often) and then flush it out.  After I
did that, I took it to the local self-serve car wash (if you have access to
a pressure washer, that would work too) and blasted the inside as best I
could with the nozzle and blew an awful lot of crap out.

I run a large clear plastic filter (Fram G12) right after the tank and check
it often.  At first, I changed it once a month, now it's more like 6 months.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Pearson [mailto:dpearson ctc.edu]
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 6:21 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Clean gas tank...




Well, this should start an interesting thread...I'm getting ready to
clean a gas tank that's got about 15 years of rust and crud built up in
it...Any good/innovative (easy) ideas?

I'm counting on you guys and gals...
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:18:21 -0500
From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: New addition to my Ford collection.

Good Mornign to all.  I am a long time list member and lurker.  I post
every once and a while.  I just thought that I would let everyone know
that I just purchased an all original 1954 F-100 from California.  I
have been looking for a 53-56 Ford for a long time.  I can't wait to get
it home.  It will be shipped into a terminal around here and I will have
to pick it up there with either my Crewcab or my Supercab (List content
:>)).

Steve S
77 F-250 Supercab
76 F-350 Crewcab
54 F-100 WOOOOHOOOO
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Oil in water
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 09:21:25 -0500


Howard B. writes:  >>I just rebuilt and installed a 390 in my '74 F250. It has been in for
about a month now, and I have put just over 500 miles on it so far. Runs
great, except it looks like I am getting oil in the coolant. No water in
the oil, but seem like lots of oil in the water. What are the odds that
the oil is leaking in the intake or head gasket? I used Fel pro blue
intake and head gaskets, and added a bead of silicone around the water
ports on the intake side of the head and intake.

Changing the intake gaskets isn't so bad, I really hate to pull the
heads.

Any quick check to determine if it is the intake or heads??

Also, would this problem cause the engine to run hot at highway speeds?
Seems like it heats up above 55-60 mph (not sure of RPM, no tach yet)
Finally, once I find and cure the leak, how best to clean the cooling
system of the oily residue?<<

Is your truck an automatic or manual??  Reason I ask is that if it is automatic, then
you may be getting transmission fluid in the radiator by having a sand(rust) hole
inside the radiator in the transmission line..

Run your favorite laundry detergent through the cooling system for several minutes
with the engine running to disolve the oil and then flush several times to remove
any and all soapy residue.  May have to use the detergent more than once and
will surely have to flush several times.
Oily film in radiator will cause overheating if your system is marginal to begin with.
(Poorer heat transfer).


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Gas Tanks
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:39:15 -0700

Muriatic acid is a hydrochloric acid dilution so needs soda to neutralize
it.  Draino is Potassium Chloride which is a "Base" and needs acid to
neutralize it.  Vinager is an acid so works well with drano but not Muriatic
acid although the acid may work on the other ingredients in the vinager and
so be neutralized to some degree, not sure about that.  Rinsing with a good,
strong degreaser would work well to neutralize acids since these are
chemically "Basic".  This primarily relates to the "PH" of the cleaners
used, 7 being neutral.

BTW, just bought a gallon of Zep "Purple" cleaner to try on my grease spots
in the barn.  Heard it worked well for that?

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> i always use either muriatic acid or drano to clean cooling systems just
be
> sure you have no aluminum parts in it tho like a thermostat
> it will get it shiny clean even in the radiator and when done drain and
> flush the system a few times and on the final drain stick a bottle of
> vineager in it to neautralize any acid


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: '74 390 rebuild
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:43:40 -0700

The faster you go the hotter the engine gets due to more heat being
produced.  If the cooling system is marginal then at some point in the work
load range it will begin to be inadequate and over heating results.
Anything that compromises the cooling system efficiency can cause this to
happen.  You will have trouble towing, running off road at slow ground
speeds in low gears and at higher cruise speeds on the highway due to this.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> << Also, would this problem cause the engine to run hot at highway speeds?
> Seems like it heats up above 55-60 mph (not sure of RPM, no tach yet)



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:47:54 -0700

Just curious......what was this truck used for?  I change oil at 5k as a
matter of convenience, use Mobil1 and MotorCraft filters.  It's convenient
because I also rotate my tires at this time and this would get tedious at 3k
intervals so I "risk" engine life to make my life a little more convenient
:-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> I can add to this.  The 331 industrial (based on the FE) out of our F-600
is



------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 07:58:35 -0700

Your motor will last just fine with regular oil changes with conventional
oil.....Look at how many Fords are still out their with 2-300,000 miles on
them.  It's more important that you DO the maintance that whether you if use
synthetic or conventional oil.

-----Original Message-----
From: Garrett Nelson [mailto:garrettnelson writeme.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 8:43 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)



I am interested in who proved them to be a waste of money. That is an
opinion. It has been proven they provide better protection than conventional
oils. Whether it is worth the extra money is up to you. I decided it was,
and I am running Mobil 1 full synthetic in my truck. It's expensive, but I
want my engine to last.


---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: G & J Boling
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 5:22 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Anti-Seize


 Oh I
 > forgot, some of you insist on running synthetic oil, too...
 =====================================================
 really its been pretty much PROVEN that synthetic oil is a WASTE of money
 seeing as how much it costs and the oil change intervals are the same as
 petroleum oils your better off with the old style stuff and just change it
 every 2 or 3 thousand miles with a new filter and still save money in the
 long run
 gordon


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------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 08:02:40 -0700

I'm willin to bet it was a crappy rebuild job that caused this motor to blow
after on 20K miles and not the onventional oil.

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com [mailto:JUMPINFORD aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 5:55 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize


I can add to this.  The 331 industrial (based on the FE) out of our F-600 is

just about to come out of the machine shop.  The first motor lasted 20k
miles, and blew as a result of a broken crank.  The 2nd motor went after 40k

miles, and threw a rod.  This last motor was at 117k miles when the timing
got to far out to run, due to a worn keyway on the crank for the timing
gears.  This says nothing for the amount of hours the engine runs while
working the PTO for the vacuum pump.  The machinist told me that had the
keyway slot not been so far damaged (it was an extra 1/8 inch wide) that I
could've just polished it and reran it.  The block only had slight taper and

the pistons were only lightly scuffed.  I was able to pull them without a
ridge reamer.  The cylinder walls still had honing marks in them.  The only
part of the engine that had any serious wear were the camshaft lobes, and
they looked good considering.  The inside of this motor was also extremely
clean.  Absolutely NO black oily residue.  What was inside stuck to
everything was just as golden as new oil.  Our secret to this long life was
15w50 Mobil 1.  And one more thing.  We didn't do a change every 3000 miles,

we did it every 5000 miles.  Plus all the extra hours!  When the oil was
changed it still felt like oil, and not like the runny garbage standard oil
feels like after 3000.  We changed it at 5000 simply because we live in a
dusty environment, and by that time we felt it was a good precaution against

abnormal wear.

Darrell & Tweety
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------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 08:11:45 -0700

No oil cooler...I'll bet I'm not the only on here with one

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: SevnD2 aol.com [mailto:SevnD2 aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 10:45 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize


In a message dated 09/20/2000 10:08:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
flash1 alltel.net writes:

<< ME i have run 15 w 40 shell rotella dino oil and have gotten over 900,000
miles  out of engines before needing rebuilt or new bearings even SO really
just a 100,000 isnt a whole lot with all things considered BUT i use
cummins
or wick filters and go 12,000 between oil changes on them and allot of
times
>>

Sounds like you have a completely different engine there. Aren't you talking

about a heavy duty diesel engine? It is in a class all it's own. No
comparison to what has been mentioned about using synthetics in gas engines.

Your engine holds about 44 quarts of oil and has an oil filter about twice
the size of what our Fords are using. Lets not forget the oil cooler on your

big rig there too. Next to none of our old Fords have an oil cooler.

I recommend synthetics in gas engines!

Rollie H. Hunt
=============================================================
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Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 11:16:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

In a message dated 9/21/00 7:52:34 AM Pacific Daylight Time, gpeters3 lni.net
writes:

<< Just curious......what was this truck used for? >>

Its a 1600 gallon vacuum truck.  Were the friendly neighborhood septic
guys....

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:20:02 -0500
From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: Re: Oil in water

> The tranny is manual (T-18) and new radiator (3 row), pump and thermostat. 390 has been
> bored .040 over. I also have the fan shroud and a Ford 6 blade flex fan. What kind of
> detergent and about how much to use?

THanks
Howardb

>
>
> Is your truck an automatic or manual??  Reason I ask is that if it is automatic, then
> you may be getting transmission fluid in the radiator by having a sand(rust) hole
> inside the radiator in the transmission line..
>
> Run your favorite laundry detergent through the cooling system for several minutes
> with the engine running to disolve the oil and then flush several times to remove
> any and all soapy residue.  May have to use the detergent more than once and
> will surely have to flush several times.
> Oily film in radiator will cause overheating if your system is marginal to begin with.
> (Poorer heat transfer).
>


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 11:21:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

In a message dated 9/21/00 8:02:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Josh.Nichols svseeds.com writes:

<< I'm willin to bet it was a crappy rebuild job that caused this motor to
blow
after on 20K miles and not the onventional oil. >>

Actually it was the original motor, and no, I dont think it was caused by
conventional oil, but believe it was a factory casting flaw in the crank
itself.  It was the 2nd motor that could have gotten a crappy build.  I dont
know, I didnt build it.  But like I said, mileage is only part of the story.
The truck runs approx half the day while parked so as to power the vacuum
pump.  And about 99% of the mileage we accumulate is stop and go city traffic
that Vegas seems to be acquiring from LA.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:04:34 -0500
From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: 390 motor

Regarding the bog off idle: I did not mess with the accelerator pump cam.
All I did was change the squirters in the throat of the carb up a couple of
sizes. (It did help, but not enough.) I did check to see if the acclerator
pump spring preload was adjusted properly, and according to the directions
I had from a Holley book, it was.

Another clue: I changed to a manual choke to get more control of the warm
up period and richness does cure the bog off idle. This is encouraging to
me. Is there any point in trying to richen up the idle mixture? Got any
suggestions for an approach to systematically going after this problem?

Thanks,

Doss Halsey
'68 F250 Camper Special
'72 F250 Camper Special

>>The intake manifold is about a 1968 4V manifold (the port sizes do match up
>>to my heads). The Holley is a 600cfm 4160 derivative. It is marketed at
>>"emissions legal for '72". I think the number is 5184. (perhaps this is the
>>culprit; there is still a bog off idle that I can't seem to get out. I have
>>even upped the pump shot two sizes) And yes, sea level.
>
>

>just how did you "up-the-pump-shot"?  Did you use the pump
>cams under the accelerator pump reservoir, or did you change the "squirters"
>in the throat of the carb.  Did you check to make sure the spring "pre-load"
>on the accelerator pump lever was set correctly?  It should be set to about
>"1/2 turn toward the pump arm" after contacting the pump arm, after curb
>idle is set.
>
>Just some thoughts,
>John



------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: 390 motor
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:30:10 -0700

   When you changed to a manual choke, did you trade carbs, or convert the
existing carb from auto to manual? If you converted a Holley carb to manual
choke, you must plug the vacuum passage for the auto choke. The auto/manual
conversion kit from Holley comes with lead ball to plug the vacuum passage.
If you didn't block this passage then you will have a vacuum leak.

Michael

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


> Regarding the bog off idle: I did not mess with the accelerator pump cam.
> All I did was change the squirters in the throat of the carb up a couple
of
> sizes. (It did help, but not enough.) I did check to see if the acclerator
> pump spring preload was adjusted properly, and according to the directions
> I had from a Holley book, it was.
>
> Another clue: I changed to a manual choke to get more control of the warm
> up period and richness does cure the bog off idle. This is encouraging to
> me. Is there any point in trying to richen up the idle mixture? Got any
> suggestions for an approach to systematically going after this problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doss Halsey
> '68 F250 Camper Special
> '72 F250 Camper Special
>
> >>The intake manifold is about a 1968 4V manifold (the port sizes do match
up
> >>to my heads). The Holley is a 600cfm 4160 derivative. It is marketed at
> >>"emissions legal for '72". I think the number is 5184. (perhaps this is
the
> >>culprit; there is still a bog off idle that I can't seem to get out. I
have
> >>even upped the pump shot two sizes) And yes, sea level.


------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: 390 motor
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:43:39 -0700

   The accelerator pump cam on a Holley is mounted on the primary throttle
shaft, not under the pump reservoir. There is not a "preload" when adjusting
the accelerator pump linkage. Once the curb idle is set, you simply remove
all slack from the accelerator pump linkage using the spring loaded nut &
bolt.

"Super Tuning and Modifying Holley Carburetors" by Dave Emanuel ISBN#
"0-931472-08-3".

Michael

~~~~~~~~~~~
> >just how did you "up-the-pump-shot"?  Did you use the pump
> >cams under the accelerator pump reservoir, or did you change the
"squirters"
> >in the throat of the carb.  Did you check to make sure the spring
"pre-load"
> >on the accelerator pump lever was set correctly?  It should be set to
about
> >"1/2 turn toward the pump arm" after contacting the pump arm, after curb
> >idle is set.
> >
> >Just some thoughts,
> >John



------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 20:04:26 EDT
Subject: Raceway Park (Englishtown New Jersey) Swapmeet

Hey all....The Raceway Park Swapmeet is being held in Englishtown, New Jersey
from Friday to Sunday this weekend.  I sold three Dana 60 front axels before
I even unloaded the truck!!  The same guy bought 2 Ford 60's and the last
Chevy 60 that I had.  Got $500 for each axel...best part is that I get it for
1/5th of that.  Haha!!  Cannot beat a friend that works at a
junkyard.....thats for sure.  Anyway.....I did not have alot of room as an
uncle's motor home is in the driveway, and I could not part out the 2 F-250
4x4's that I have.  I'll have them for parts in a few weeks.  ANYWAY....If
anybody is interested, stop by and BS for a while.  My spot numbers are K5
thru K10...just ask for Wayne.  Later!!!  Wayne

------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 20:46:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

In a message dated 9/20/00 10:09:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
derrar internetcds.com writes:

<< What brands are you referring as "good synthetics"?
Jason >>

In my opinion Mobil-1 and AMS/OIL are the ones I consider "good synthetics".
This is based on my past and present use of both oils for over 22 years.  I
run AMS/OIL in my newer equipment, ie 99 Taurus, and Mobil-1 in my 93
Berretta, 172,000 miles.  My 1972 F-250 will have AMS/OIL in it after it is
broken in.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:09:11 -0400

25k oil changes is a mythe
> perpetuated by money hungry oil companies.
===============================================
remember when engines first began being warranteed for 25,000 miles the auto
companies said 6000 mile oil changes THEN they began 50,000 warrantys and
then said 2 to 3000 mile oil changes seeing as how they now had to pay for
them if they blew up
that should say it all i think
gordon



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:16:06 -0400
From: admin ford-trucks.com
Subject: Subscription to forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-b


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Messages posted in 1961-1979 Ford trucks
===========================================================
"RE: 9"
Posted by 390fe on 09/20/2000 22:49:55
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3794.html#5

"RE: Homebrew"
Posted by Kenny on 09/20/2000 23:13:52
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3788.html#9

"portioning valve"
Posted by ford429cu on 09/20/2000 23:14:40
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3811.html#0

"RE: T-bird parts fit my truck?"
Posted by hpguy on 09/20/2000 23:40:41
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3804.html#1

"RE: Is This Possible?? (notes from '64 shop manual)"
Posted by rdscofield on 09/20/2000 23:41:37
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3787.html#7

"RE: Is This Possible?? (notes from '64 shop manual)"
Posted by hpguy on 09/20/2000 23:46:03
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3787.html#8

"RE: Supercharger"
Posted by 390GT on 09/21/2000 00:19:58
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3807.html#4

"RE: 390 to 460 swap"
Posted by 390GT on 09/21/2000 00:26:49
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3808.html#1

"Just need an opinion or two with this one..."
Posted by hpguy on 09/21/2000 00:35:23
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3812.html#0

"Just need an opinion or two with this one..."
Posted by hpguy on 09/21/2000 00:41:03
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3813.html#0

"RE: fire,"
Posted by elsmith on 09/21/2000 01:02:56
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3802.html#4

"RE: I almost burned my garage down last Friday night. F150/390"
Posted by DBF on 09/21/2000 02:38:59
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3802.html#5

"RE: No Valve train damage"
Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 07:24:38
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3788.html#10

"RE: 390 to 460 swap"
Posted by Huggy Bear on 09/21/2000 08:12:34
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3808.html#2

"RE: Just need an opinion or two with this one..."
Posted by dust3 on 09/21/2000 08:36:04
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3813.html#1

"79 F150 tranny interchange"
Posted by 4x4ranger on 09/21/2000 09:11:54
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#0

"RE: Supercharger"
Posted by dave186 on 09/21/2000 09:30:35
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3807.html#5

"RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange"
Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 10:06:04
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#1

"RE: 390 to 460 swap  Bolt Patterns"
Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 10:14:23
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3808.html#3

"RE: thanks"
Posted by rick on 09/21/2000 11:11:41
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3774.html#9

"RE: I almost burned my garage down last Friday night. F150/390"
Posted by rusty68 on 09/21/2000 11:37:44
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3802.html#6

"RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange"
Posted by 4x4ranger on 09/21/2000 11:39:38
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#2

"RE: 4x4 in Salt Lake City!"
Posted by 73f100 on 09/21/2000 12:39:44
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3810.html#1

"RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange"
Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 13:00:10
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#3

"RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange"
Posted by 4fords on 09/21/2000 13:44:54
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#4

"Window Seals Needed"
Posted by heavymetal on 09/21/2000 14:13:13
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3815.html#0

"RE: Just need an opinion or two with this one..."
Posted by DAV1972 on 09/21/2000 14:32:48
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3813.html#2

"1972 F250 4x4 w/ 3" Body Lift"
Posted by fruck on 09/21/2000 14:38:14
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3816.html#0

"'77 crewcab--newbie"
Posted by idahocrewcab on 09/21/2000 14:47:57
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#0

"T-case,NP435"
Posted by dinosaurfan on 09/21/2000 15:06:02
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#1

"RE: 1972 F250 4x4 w/ 3"
Posted by dinosaurfan on 09/21/2000 15:14:53
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3816.html#1

"RE: Just need an opinion or two with this one..."
Posted by rdscofield on 09/21/2000 15:51:04
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3813.html#3

"RE: Supercharger"
Posted by BBB on 09/21/2000 16:06:26
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3807.html#6

"RE: 390 motor mounts"
Posted by dinosaurfan on 09/21/2000 16:12:19
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3795.html#1

"RE: T-bird parts fit my truck?"
Posted by skip4274 on 09/21/2000 17:07:35
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3804.html#2

"RE: 1972 F250 4x4 w/ 3"
Posted by RRL'78 on 09/21/2000 17:20:12
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3816.html#2

"RE: Supercharger"
Posted by dave186 on 09/21/2000 17:23:47
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3807.html#7

"RE: Window Seals Needed"
Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 17:27:33
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3815.html#1

"RE: T-case,NP435"
Posted by dave186 on 09/21/2000 17:28:49
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#2

"RE: T-case,NP435"
Posted by idahocrewcab on 09/21/2000 17:39:51
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#3

"RE: T-case,NP435"
Posted by idahocrewcab on 09/21/2000 17:42:01
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#4

"RE: T-case,NP435"
Posted by 1977rangerxlt on 09/21/2000 18:46:37
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#5

"Please Help Doors..."
Posted by o2bad on 09/21/2000 19:21:42
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3818.html#0

"RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange"
Posted by Kenny on 09/21/2000 19:29:49
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#5

"RE: Please Help Doors..."
Posted by Kenny on 09/21/2000 19:45:56
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3818.html#1

"RE: 9"
Posted by gkk2001 on 09/21/2000 19:47:28
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3794.html#6

"RE: portioning valve"
Posted by sparky on 09/21/2000 19:51:35
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3811.html#1

"RE: Rearend ID?"
Posted by gkk2001 on 09/21/2000 20:05:44
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3761.html#8

"RE: Window Seals Needed"
Posted by dust3 on 09/21/2000 20:32:30
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3815.html#2

"RE: Supercharger"
Posted by BBB on 09/21/2000 20:45:39
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3807.html#8

"RE: T-case,NP435"
Posted by dave186 on 09/21/2000 20:51:26
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3817.html#6

"RE: 390 to 460 swap"
Posted by fuzz on 09/21/2000 20:59:24
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3808.html#4

"RE: 79 F150 tranny interchange"
Posted by 4x4ranger on 09/21/2000 21:03:50
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3814.html#6

"66F-100 Gas Question!"
Posted by volleyball33 on 09/21/2000 21:08:08
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3819.html#0

"Rear Brakes ID? help please"
Posted by gkk2001 on 09/21/2000 21:12:30
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3820.html#0

"Ring gear ratio with AOD??"
Posted by gkk2001 on 09/21/2000 21:16:40
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3821.html#0

"67 Custom Cab"
Posted by StockMan on 09/21/2000 21:18:29
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3808.html#5

"RE: Just need an opinion or two with this one..."
Posted by gkk2001 on 09/21/2000 21:21:22
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3813.html#4

"RE: Rearend ID?"
Posted by StockMan on 09/21/2000 21:27:47
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3761.html#9

"RE: Ring gear ratio with AOD??"
Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 21:30:54
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3821.html#1

"Help!!!"
Posted by volleyball33 on 09/21/2000 21:40:20
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3822.html#0

"RE: 66F-100 Gas Question!"
Posted by jowilker on 09/21/2000 21:44:33
http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/3819.html#1

"Engine ID"
Posted by StockMan on 09/21/2000 21:45:52 ....


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