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61-79-list Digest Wed, 20 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 253

In This Issue:
Re: Anti-Seize
Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel
Re: 390 windage tray
Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
converting generator to alternator
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
'74 390 rebuild
Re: Anti-Seize
Re: '74 390 rebuild
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: 460 casting numbers
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
pinion seal removal
synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Re: pinion seal removal
Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Re: '74 390 rebuild
Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Anti-Seize
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 18:22:38 -0400

Oh I
> forgot, some of you insist on running synthetic oil, too...
=====================================================
really its been pretty much PROVEN that synthetic oil is a WASTE of money
seeing as how much it costs and the oil change intervals are the same as
petroleum oils your better off with the old style stuff and just change it
every 2 or 3 thousand miles with a new filter and still save money in the
long run
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Dave Resch" <Dave.Resch sybase.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 16:57:08 -0600
Subject: Re: l.p. gas(propane) for fuel

>From: Chad Morris <pottymouth2 yahoo.com>
>
>Are there any places that sell higher C:R pistons
>for my '78 351M? It has a very low C:R right now, it
>won't ever ping when using 87 octane, but its time
>to rebuild and give it some more power!!!

Yo Chad:

The only pistons in regular production that will increase compression in a 351M
are the TRW forged #L2466F units.  Federal Mogul advertises them as 8.6:1 CR.
That is still not very high compression.

OTOH, if you swap out the 351M crankshaft for a 400 crankshaft, you can use
either the Nylen (Ohio Piston) #1282P flat tops for 9.0:1 compression, or bush
the rods for 351C piston pins.  If you use 351C pistons, there are lots of
different designs that will give you anywhere up to 11.5:1 (or so) CR w/out
shaving your stock block and heads.

The increased displacement of the 400 and the increased compression possible w/
400-compatible pistons will go a long way to making more power than your 351M.

Dave R (M-block devotee)



------------------------------

From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 18:20:55 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: 390 windage tray

PAW (Performance Automotive Warehouse) sells a windage tray for 352-428
"FE" V8 engines. The part # is FOR-M-6687-A390... the price is $33.95.
Its a Ford Motorsport SVO part so you can be confident it fits properly.

Laters, Danny Ling


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 17:40:20 -0700

Hmmm...I can find quite a few very reputable people including a lot of folks
in racing who will dispute your claims about synthetic oil. Fact is it's
more "slippery" than the dino stuff and it has a much higher tolerance for
shear than dino oil as well as a very high heat tolerance. In fact the only
thing bad about synthetic oil is the high price.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 3:22 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Anti-Seize


> Oh I
> > forgot, some of you insist on running synthetic oil, too...
> =====================================================
> really its been pretty much PROVEN that synthetic oil is a WASTE of money
> seeing as how much it costs and the oil change intervals are the same as
> petroleum oils your better off with the old style stuff and just change it
> every 2 or 3 thousand miles with a new filter and still save money in the
> long run




------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 20:55:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

I can add to this.  The 331 industrial (based on the FE) out of our F-600 is
just about to come out of the machine shop.  The first motor lasted 20k
miles, and blew as a result of a broken crank.  The 2nd motor went after 40k
miles, and threw a rod.  This last motor was at 117k miles when the timing
got to far out to run, due to a worn keyway on the crank for the timing
gears.  This says nothing for the amount of hours the engine runs while
working the PTO for the vacuum pump.  The machinist told me that had the
keyway slot not been so far damaged (it was an extra 1/8 inch wide) that I
could've just polished it and reran it.  The block only had slight taper and
the pistons were only lightly scuffed.  I was able to pull them without a
ridge reamer.  The cylinder walls still had honing marks in them.  The only
part of the engine that had any serious wear were the camshaft lobes, and
they looked good considering.  The inside of this motor was also extremely
clean.  Absolutely NO black oily residue.  What was inside stuck to
everything was just as golden as new oil.  Our secret to this long life was
15w50 Mobil 1.  And one more thing.  We didn't do a change every 3000 miles,
we did it every 5000 miles.  Plus all the extra hours!  When the oil was
changed it still felt like oil, and not like the runny garbage standard oil
feels like after 3000.  We changed it at 5000 simply because we live in a
dusty environment, and by that time we felt it was a good precaution against
abnormal wear.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 21:40:26 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: converting generator to alternator

Group
is it possible to convert my 61, 292's generator to an alternator????
Also this 61 F-250 4x4 is a Blast!!!Talk about tough....only thing i
wish it
had a boxed in frame :(
joe
68 f-100 4x4 390/C6/dana 44 w discs
61 F-250 4x4 Flareside 292/4spd


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:14:51 -0400

We changed it at 5000 simply because we live in a
> dusty environment, and by that time we felt it was a good precaution
against
> abnormal wear.
>
> Darrell & Tweety
> =============================================================
well your lucky i guess if your in dusty stuff allot BUT you better give
more credit to the filters than the oil tho they are what kept it so clean
and running all the time helped also allot just starting them and driving or
running a few miles will or would be harder than bring it up to temp and
holding it there for hrs
ME i have run 15 w 40 shell rotella dino oil and have gotten over 900,000
miles  out of engines before needing rebuilt or new bearings even SO really
just a 100,000 isnt a whole lot with all things considered BUT i use cummins
or wick filters and go 12,000 between oil changes on them and allot of times
when i crank mine up in the morning it will run constantly for 2 days steady
before getting shut down and this is ALL with just plain old oil no
synthetic stuff at all
gordon



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:20:00 -0400

In fact the only
> thing bad about synthetic oil is the high price.
==================================================
that is wat i mean the cost just isnt justified and thats been allot of
oipinions of the stuff and the change intervals are the same as regular oil
is
gordon



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 21:43:16 -0500
From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: '74 390 rebuild


All-

I just rebuilt and installed a 390 in my '74 F250. It has been in for
about a month now, and I have put just over 500 miles on it so far. Runs
great, except it looks like I am getting oil in the coolant. No water in
the oil, but seem like lots of oil in the water. What are the odds that
the oil is leaking in the intake or head gasket? I used Fel pro blue
intake and head gaskets, and added a bead of silicone around the water
ports on the intake side of the head and intake.

Changing the intake gaskets isn't so bad, I really hate to pull the
heads.

Any quick check to determine if it is the intake or heads??

Also, would this problem cause the engine to run hot at highway speeds?
Seems like it heats up above 55-60 mph (not sure of RPM, no tach yet)
Finally, once I find and cure the leak, how best to clean the cooling
system of the oily residue?

Thanks in advance

Howardb

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 19:59:22 -0700
From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Anti-Seize

John Lord <thelord home.com> wrote:
> In fact in some places it is illegal to lube your lug's

John,
Just so that I can be sure of being in proper compliance, can you cite some
sources?  I use wheel bearing grease on mine, and I'd sure hate to get a
nasty fine for doing so.

Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".

------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: '74 390 rebuild
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:02:58 -0500

 Howard, were the heads magnifluxed? It almost sounds like a cracked head,
but could very well be a bad gasket or even a chunk of dirt in the wrong
spot. While I'm thinking of it, it seems like I read somewhere that FE's
need their intakes retorqued after a few cold-hot cycles. Any chance you've
checked the intake manifold bolt torque? If that's the problem, it'd be an
easy fix! Good luck,
Jason Kendrick
----- Original Message -----


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 20:49:47 -0700

We run 15W-40 Unocal Guardol (dino oil??) with Baldwin filters in our CAT
truck engines.   Our target oil change intervals are 14-16K miles, some
tested out to as far as 25,000 miles (oil changed about once a month).  Some
of our late model 3406E's have been in- framed at 750,000 just for
inspection and longevitity analysis.  There is hardly any wear on the
bearing surfaces or on the liner bores.  The last one we did had 900K on it.
It would have lasted much longer except for a failed liner o-ring which
allowed coolant into the oil and ruined the bearings.  We have an oil
analysis done every other oil change and monitor any changes or occurences
and plan accordingly
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is: The Feel of Warm Deer Guts in My Hands.


------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 00:42:15 EDT
Subject: Re: 460 casting numbers

In a message dated 9/20/00 1:42:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kendrick mddc.com writes:

<<  need some help finding the casting numbers on my 460. Can anyone tell me
where to look? Thanks,
Jason Kendrick
 >>

The block casting numbers are behind or just above the starter.  Located just
below the block casting number is the casting date.  It maybe easier to clean
off the machined surface on the right front near the water pump discharge
where a 4 digit alphanumerical code is stamped giving the actual assembly
date of the engine.  It will start with a number, which is the year of the
decade, followed by a letter from the sequence A through M, A is January and
M is December, M is the 13th letter of the alphabet.  The letter I is not
used therefore M is the 12th letter of the sequence.  The final 2 digits are
the day of the month.  Good Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 00:52:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

I assume most know that the change interval for a good synthetic is a year or
25000 miles, which ends up saving money over the dino stuff.  Not to mention
the gasoline and repair savings.  Enjoy

Burt Hill

------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:21:21 -0700

What brands are you referring as "good synthetics"?
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is: The Feel of Warm Deer Guts in My Hands.
----- Original Message -----
From: <SHill48337 aol.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 9:52 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize


> I assume most know that the change interval for a good synthetic is a year
or
> 25000 miles, which ends up saving money over the dino stuff.  Not to
mention
> the gasoline and repair savings.  Enjoy
>
> Burt Hill
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "From vancester" <vancester hotmail.com>
Subject: pinion seal removal
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 05:11:44 GMT

Hi List-

Was wondering if anybody has any tips or tricks for removing the pinion seal
on a dana 60?  The rear seal is leaking badly, seams simple to replace, I
have gone over the procedures in my head.  I just can't think of how I will
remove the seal, with the end of the pinion still in place, I don't see how
I will be able to pry on it.  I was thinking of drilling holes and possibly
using a dent puller???  Is tapping the new one in pretty easy?  Thanks for
any advice!!!

Brian
77 F250 4X 351M
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.

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------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:42:53 -0500


I am interested in who proved them to be a waste of money. That is an opinion. It has been proven they provide better protection than conventional oils. Whether it is worth the extra money is up to you. I decided it was, and I am running Mobil 1 full synthetic in my truck. It's expensive, but I want my engine to last.


---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: G & J Boling
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 5:22 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Anti-Seize


 Oh I
 > forgot, some of you insist on running synthetic oil, too...
 =====================================================
 really its been pretty much PROVEN that synthetic oil is a WASTE of money
 seeing as how much it costs and the oil change intervals are the same as
 petroleum oils your better off with the old style stuff and just change it
 every 2 or 3 thousand miles with a new filter and still save money in the
 long run
 gordon


 =============================================================
 To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
 Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: pinion seal removal
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:45:59 -0700

There is a seal puller that is a T shape with a handle and 2 hooks on the
end.  You can get them through Snap On or Mac but I have also seen them
through Plews Tools (found in many parts stores).  They are pretty
inexpensive.  I think I paid less than $20 through Snap On a few years back.
It makes the removal a breeze.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is: The Feel of Warm Deer Guts in My Hands.
----- Original Message -----
From: "From vancester" <vancester hotmail.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 10:11 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] pinion seal removal


> Hi List-
>
> Was wondering if anybody has any tips or tricks for removing the pinion
seal
> on a dana 60?  The rear seal is leaking badly, seams simple to replace, I
> have gone over the procedures in my head.  I just can't think of how I
will
> remove the seal, with the end of the pinion still in place, I don't see
how
> I will be able to pry on it.  I was thinking of drilling holes and
possibly
> using a dent puller???  Is tapping the new one in pretty easy?  Thanks for
> any advice!!!
>
> Brian
> 77 F250 4X 351M
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.
>
> Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com.
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 00:35:38 -0500


Oh, and I think extending your oil change intervals when using synthetic is nonsense. I still change my expensive oil every 3,000 or 4,000 miles. Between that and the dual K&N oil filters, my oil changes are not cheap! But, I know my engine is getting good clean oil that will prolong its life.


---Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 01:44:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

In a message dated 09/20/2000 10:08:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
flash1 alltel.net writes:

<< ME i have run 15 w 40 shell rotella dino oil and have gotten over 900,000
miles  out of engines before needing rebuilt or new bearings even SO really
just a 100,000 isnt a whole lot with all things considered BUT i use cummins
or wick filters and go 12,000 between oil changes on them and allot of times
>>

Sounds like you have a completely different engine there. Aren't you talking
about a heavy duty diesel engine? It is in a class all it's own. No
comparison to what has been mentioned about using synthetics in gas engines.
Your engine holds about 44 quarts of oil and has an oil filter about twice
the size of what our Fords are using. Lets not forget the oil cooler on your
big rig there too. Next to none of our old Fords have an oil cooler.

I recommend synthetics in gas engines!

Rollie H. Hunt

------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 23:10:26 -0700

But why run an expensive synthetic oil if you aren't getting any more life
out of it than 3-4K miles.  A good quality engine oil will protect and offer
the same lubrication properties up to that point, at the very least.
I've had engines last in upwards of 400,000 miles by changing the oil at
3000 miles and using decent quality oil.  I pulled a 302 from a 3/4t van
that had nearly 300,000 original miles on it.  The only major work that had
been done was a timing chain.  When I disassembled the engine, there was no
major wear to speak of.   The bearings looked like new and there was NO ring
ridge.  The owner simply changed the oil religiously every 2500-3000 miles
and used high quality engine oil, no synthetics, no additives.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is: The Feel of Warm Deer Guts in My Hands.



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 02:15:06 -0400




> I assume most know that the change interval for a good synthetic is a year
or
> 25000 miles, which ends up saving money over the dino stuff.  Not to
mention
> the gasoline and repair savings.  Enjoy
>
> Burt Hill
> =============================================================
better check again anything that i have seen says change just like regular
oil is done
gordon



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 02:09:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Scott Hall <sch8489 garnet.acns.fsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

On Thu, 21 Sep 2000 SHill48337 aol.com wrote:

> I assume most know that the change interval for a good synthetic is a year or
> 25000 miles, which ends up saving money over the dino stuff.  Not to mention
> the gasoline and repair savings.  Enjoy

this attitude is *exactly* the one amsoil is trying to sell you.  for god's
sake, where'd you get this?  I know you know what oil does in your engine,
so have you really thought about that paragraph?  look--oil has two basic
functions: lubricate and clean (contaminant removal from surfaces).  with
regard to lubrication, a truck engine is the last place in the whole world
that needs a synthetic.  the *major* synthetic bonus over petro oil is
it's superior film strength at more extreme conditions (which translates,
like somebody else said, to high shear resistance).  the molecule chains
are longer and more stable.  this is a Very Good Thing--if you happen to
be driving, say an f1 car, or a new cbr600f4, or something else that revs
to 16000 r.p.m., because in this case 'extreme conditions' means high
r.p.m. until you get into rev bands that no ford truck (or, really, any
ford production) engine is capable of generating, the superior properties
of a synthetic just aren't required.  it lubricates no better than a plain
old 10w30.  not even a little bit.

regarding deposit removal, it's all depends on the additive package and
changing the oil regularly, and the filter.  the oil will absorb as much
particulate material as it can until it's saturated (basically).  the
filter will remove the (comparatively) larger chuncks of it, but the oil
is going to absorb just as much that filters cannot remove (this is why
amsoil devotees who just swap filters every 30000 miles are, in short,
nutbars).  the second (and somewhat smaller bonus, again, especially in
trucks) is the general tendency of synthetics to not produce ash.  most
petro oils will produce *very* small amounts of *very* small ash
particulates (so small that you will never need to worry about them).
this isn't a concern unless you *never* change your oil (ever) and you're
lucky enough to have the car last 150,000 miles.  then, the lifters on
your prelude might get clicky when you pegged the tach at whatever they
redline at.

having covered those two things, let's move on to the dirt that gets into
your engine.  let's say you change your oil every 25000 miles.  that means
there's still 25000 miles worth of air particulates sucked into your
engine, 25000 miles of combustion byproducts and condensate, etc.  you
didn't suddenly start producing/inhaling any less when you swapped to
synthetic, only now you're leaving it there for a year (or 25000 miles).
this is the equivilent of having a regular oil in your crankcase for 25000
miles.  there is *no* additional magic synthetic oil property that makes
the dust you drive through avoid your air intake and route around the
engine, or that makes vapor disappear from inside your crankcase, and the
synthetic oil is dealing with it the same way a petro oil is--absorbing it
and delivering it to the filter until it becomes saturated, which is about
the same time a petro oil will become saturated (depending on weight,
manufacturers, etc.) leaving *any* oil in your engine for 25000 miles is
probably not a good idea.

let's see...savings on repair bills?  hmmm...  only if your last name is
schumaker or hill (or if I decide to become an amsoil distributor), and if
you get an m.p.g. improvement with synthetic oil, you should probably make
a commercial, as the weight of an oil determines the level of friction it
exhibits against your engine, not the origin of its component molecules
(if you switched from petro 20w50 to synthetic 5w30, yep, you'd get a
mileage increase--the same one you'd get if you switched to a petro 5w30).

mail me offline if you'd like the chemical breakdown, or for me to really
get obtuse, I can go on about carbon-carbon bonds for hours...

scott


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 02:18:13 -0400





>
> I am interested in who proved them to be a waste of money. That is an
opinion. It has been proven they provide better protection than conventional
oils. Whether it is worth the extra money is up to you. I decided it was,
and I am running Mobil 1 full synthetic in my truck. It's expensive, but I
want my engine to last.
>
=====================================================
i guess its up to you myself i WILL NOT use them i get near a million miles
out of class 8 engines on regular oil and get sick of my cars before the
engines wear out using it
to each his own i guess
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 23:23:21 -0700

The same oil lubricates the same type of parts, just on a larger scale.
Diesel engines have oil coolers because they build much more heat than a gas
engine and would cook the oil (regular or synthetic) in a short amount of
time otherwise under the extreme conditions they operate under.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is: The Feel of Warm Deer Guts in My Hands.
----- Original Message -----
From: <SevnD2 aol.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 10:44 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize


> In a message dated 09/20/2000 10:08:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> flash1 alltel.net writes:
>
> << ME i have run 15 w 40 shell rotella dino oil and have gotten over
900,000
>  miles  out of engines before needing rebuilt or new bearings even SO
really
>  just a 100,000 isnt a whole lot with all things considered BUT i use
cummins
>  or wick filters and go 12,000 between oil changes on them and allot of
times
> >>
>
> Sounds like you have a completely different engine there. Aren't you
talking
> about a heavy duty diesel engine? It is in a class all it's own. No
> comparison to what has been mentioned about using synthetics in gas
engines.
> Your engine holds about 44 quarts of oil and has an oil filter about twice
> the size of what our Fords are using. Lets not forget the oil cooler on
your
> big rig there too. Next to none of our old Fords have an oil cooler.
>
> I recommend synthetics in gas engines!
>
> Rollie H. Hunt
> =============================================================
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 02:12:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Scott Hall <sch8489 garnet.acns.fsu.edu>
Subject: Re: synthetic oils (formerly anti-sieze)

On Wed, 20 Sep 2000, Garrett Nelson wrote:

> I am interested in who proved them to be a waste of money. That is an opinion. It has been proven they provide better protection than conventional oils. Whether it is worth the extra money is up to you. I decided it was, and I am running Mobil 1 full synthetic in my truck. It's expensive, but I want my engine to last.

I'd like to know:

a) who proved that,

b) what constitutes 'proof',

c) what constitutes 'better protection'.  that in itself is subjective.
like I said, a synthetic oil will do a *much* better job protecting a f1
car than jiffy-mart 30 weight.  your truck will never notice the
difference, though.

scott


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 02:34:25 -0400

Sounds like you have a completely different engine there. Aren't you talking
> about a heavy duty diesel engine? It is in a class all it's own.
===========================================================
YES and if it holds up in a diesel engine it sure will hold up under a gas
one too with diesels you get much more contamination than gas engines do and
is under allot more stress idleing and running thru a hot turbo charger  if
it doesnt break down there enough to wear one out its good oil
---------------------------------------------------------
No
> comparison to what has been mentioned about using synthetics in gas
engines.
> Your engine holds about 44 quarts of oil and has an oil filter about twice
> the size of what our Fords are using. Lets not forget the oil cooler on
your
> big rig there too. Next to none of our old Fords have an oil cooler.
=============================================================
now whats the difference if it holds 12 gallon or not it holds just enough
to lube the engine a gal. in a diesel is equal to a qrt in a car the way i
figure it really and that oil cooler still allows it to get plenty hot to it
doesnt cool that oil that much really
gordon




------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 02:26:39 EDT
Subject: Re: '74 390 rebuild

In a message dated 9/20/00 7:42:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com writes:


<< Also, would this problem cause the engine to run hot at highway speeds?
Seems like it heats up above 55-60 mph (not sure of RPM, no tach yet)
Finally, once I find and cure the leak, how best to clean the cooling
system of the oily residue?
>>

Really sounds to me like you have a real problem here.  I couldnt recommend a
way to fix it other that a tear down to the short block.  I can however
suggest a way to clean the coolant passages.  We put a 460 in my buddies
Bronco that ended up having a crack in the back of the block that resulted in
a steady drip from the back of the motor.  We decided to try silica gel egg
preservative to seal it up.  This stuff is not compatible with antfreeze, so
we drained the system, flushed it, than we filled and ran the system to
operating temp on nuthing but water and 1 full cup of tide.  We used the tide
because it wouldnt foam up and create more problems than it solved.  After it
warmed up we flushed the soap out and went to soluble oil.  Almost a year now
and still doin fine.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 02:32:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Scott Hall <sch8489 garnet.acns.fsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Syntehtic vs. Dino Oil was Anti-Seize

diesels are far and away harder on oil than any gas engine.  that's the
reason for all the extra oil and *huge* filter(s).  and they still get
nastified inside.

ever crack open a big rig engine?  ugh.  that soot is toxic, too.

scott

On Thu, 21 Sep 2000 SevnD2 aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 09/20/2000 10:08:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> flash1 alltel.net writes:
>
> << ME i have run 15 w 40 shell rotella dino oil and have gotten over 900,000
>  miles  out of engines before needing rebuilt or new bearings even SO really
>  just a 100,000 isnt a whole lot with all things considered BUT i use cummins
>  or wick filters and go 12,000 between oil changes on them and allot of times
> >>
>
> Sounds like you have a completely different engine there. Aren't you talking
> about a heavy duty diesel engine? It is in a class all it's own. No
> comparison to what has been mentioned about using synthetics in gas engines.
> Your engine holds about 44 quarts of oil and has an oil filter about twice
> the size of what our Fords are using. Lets not forget the oil cooler on your ....

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