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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 14:13:50 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Mon, 18 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 250

In This Issue:
Re: Cheater Bars
Re: OK I think I goofed  (bought 78 F250 XLT auction)
Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog
Clouds and clouds of white smoke
Re: 390 motor
Re: Cheater Bars
Oil Pan Replacement
Just a couple questions/Dana 44 HD Spindle Question
Re: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '66 F100!
Re: Clouds and clouds of white smoke
Re: Anti-Seize
Re: EFI wiring connectors
Where does thre tire iron go on a '76 F100?
Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalo
Re: Where does thre tire iron go on a '76 F100?
Re: Where does thre tire iron go on a '76 F100?
Re: Anti-Seize
Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2
Re: 390 motor, Holley's
Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize
Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2
axle identification  ??
Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2
Re: Anti-Seize
Re: axle identification  ??
Re: Anti-Seize
Re: Anti-Seize
Re: Fw: Lugs on Fords

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 00:05:12 -0700

Well, I'm not a gentleman and I don't know what Anti-Seize is but won't
WD-40 work. . . its what I use.  You mean they always said your not supposed
to put something on to make it easier to put them on?  good grief I can
usually barely get lug nuts off (especially after those icky expensive tire
guys get to them, even when I tell them I want to be able to get them off if
I have a flat tire by myself) now they want to make it so its harder to get
them on too.

Thank you . . . think I'll keep using my WD-40 unless you want to tell me
what this Anti-Seize is and if its better.

Dawn Chere

----- Original Message -----
From: Gary <gpeters3 lni.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 8:33 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Cheater Bars


> Gentlemen, when installing lug nuts you should use Anti-Seize on the
> threads.  I've been preaching this for years against entities as fearsome
as
> the Federal Government and now have been vindicated.  It is being taught
in
> Auto Mechanic Schools now.  Trust me, they absolutely will not fall off if
> you lube them, the lube actually allows you to attain the actual benefit
of
> the torque you apply in stretching the lug to "Retain" the nut which is
the
> principle by which all nuts are retained.
   [snip]

> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)
>



------------------------------

From: "Dawn Chere" <dawnchere ados.com>
Subject: Re: OK I think I goofed  (bought 78 F250 XLT auction)
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 00:06:25 -0700

Well I got it home, although my husband is thinking of banning me from the
auctions. . .
   "In the space of a month you've gotten 2 trucks. . . I never should have
mentioned going to the auction."

Anyway I already wrote an email about where I'm at with it.  It came out
about 6pm ish PST anyway thanks for your input I wish I'd read that email
before spending half the day in a junk yard and then the other half trying
to work on it in the tow yard <G>.

Dawn Chere
'78 F 100
'78 F 250 XLT
----- Original Message -----
From: Dawn Chere <dawnchere ados.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 8:46 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] OK I think I goofed (bought 78 F250 XLT auction)
HELP


Well while we were there
> yesterday my husband pointed out the simularities between this truck and
> what we were wanting originally.  As well as how much this truck looked
like
> mine. . .
> Long story short he went to look at something else and I thought he wanted
> me to buy it well I won the bidding at $225.
>



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 05:11:37 -0700
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog



Dawn Chere wrote:

> OK I give up I read all the LMC catalog emails and there isn't an address or
> webpage for getting one. . . I know that I need at least one of them plastic
> door panels for my F250 so if you could be kind to this very tired woman I
> would appreciate a webpage or address so I know how to get my hands on a
> catalog.
>

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lmctruck.com


------------------------------

From: "Ballinger" <ballingr sbmu.net>
Subject: Clouds and clouds of white smoke
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 04:43:42 -0500

>
>Pulled over and stopped, still missing badly, shut it off.  Everything
>seemed normal under hood, but then I saw it, antifreeze running out of my
>donut(sp?) gasket on driver's exhaust manifold.  Towed it home and pulled
>the plugs - #3 was a little wet, #8 was soaked, rest were fine.  #3 and #8
>are connected by an intake runner, so I'm assuming that the water came in
>near #8 and ran across the intake to #3 (sound logical?).

On the 390, the only cylinders that will get wet from an intake gasket leak
are 1 and 5.   You could have blown the drivers side head gasket and had it
push antifreeze into the intake and fill up 3, and if you looked at 2 and 5
they probably got a little too


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 07:28:12 -0500
From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: Re: 390 motor

At 04:06 PM 9/15/00 -0400, you wrote:

>    Yes, your local machinist should be able to help you select the piston
>with CR of your choice. I would suggest setting your timing at about 7 or 8
>degrees advance and climbing a long steep hill with cheep fuel in your tanks
>(not premium). See if you can get your current configuration to ping under
>load at low RPM's & low throttle opening before you bump up the CR.

I am running about 12 degrees initial advance. I run regular gas. I have
not noticed any pinging at any load, RPM, or heat condition.

>    What kind of intake manifold did you use? What kind of carburetor
>(Holley #)? Are you driving the truck at or near sea level? If not at sea
>level, has the carb been adjusted for altitude?

The intake manifold is about a 1968 4V manifold (the port sizes do match up
to my heads). The Holley is a 600cfm 4160 derivative. It is marketed at
"emissions legal for '72". I think the number is 5184. (perhaps this is the
culprit; there is still a bog off idle that I can't seem to get out. I have
even upped the pump shot two sizes) And yes, sea level.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:19:57 -0400
From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars

>Thank you . . . think I'll keep using my WD-40 unless you want to tell me
>what this Anti-Seize is and if its better.

Well my bottle of the stuff didn't say exactly what it is in it but it's a
greasy, slimey compound you but on stuff you're bolting back together -
keeps the threads from corroding and seizing up for easy removal down the
road. I think it's the equivalent of all the grease and sludge that
accumulates on an engine but without all the dirt and sand mixed in..

:-)


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

From: "J.X. Schulz" <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
Subject: Oil Pan Replacement
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 07:37:27 -0600

Hey Tim,

The Seattle trip hasn't been nailed down yet, but I'm guessing somewhere
between the 9th and 14th of November......I'll post as soon as I can confirm
this, OK????

CJ


------------------------------

From: "J.X. Schulz" <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
Subject: Just a couple questions/Dana 44 HD Spindle Question
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 07:47:31 -0600

Yes, it's a direct swap for 76 and up, or maybe 75 if they had the disc
brakes then.....this is the key, the knuckles need the 5-bolt setup, rather
than the 6-bolt deal that came with the drum brakes.....don't forget, you'll
need to swap your back axle out now to handle the 8-lug setup as well!!!!

You'll also need new axle stub shafts, the units for the HD setup are
roughly 3/4" longer than the stock 1/2 ton units.......

Hope this helps!

CJ


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 10:30:14 -0400
From: somalley voyager2.cns.ohiou.edu (Sean O'Malley)
Subject: Re: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '66 F100!

> I think maybe you better rethink your "list cop" mentality.
> [snip] The power
> steering conversion topic has been covered ad nauseum on here.

Yep, it's been covered almost as much as the "Big Brother Wants
to Take Away My Truck/Let's all Join the John Birch Society"
threads that rear their ugly heads every two weeks or so.

Talk about ad nauseum :).

--sean

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:56:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> What do I need to do to remove the cap screw on the end of the crankshaft??
> Drain coolant, remove radiator and use an impact gun on it?
> Or is there something else I can do to remove the cap screw without taking
> the radiator out??
> Will a 1/2" air impact gun remove this bolt??
> If the timing gears did explode, how many valves got bent when the pistons
> hit them?
> If the camshaft broke, how many valves got bent when the pistons hit them?

Keith,

Maybe you can wrap the fan belt around the crank shaft and then hold it
squeezed together some how so that the crank doesn't turn while you take the
bolt out. That's not a very good description, but I had the same trouble
swapping the power steering pulleys about a month back and this was the only
thing that would work. Of course the ps pump was out on the garage floor and
easy to get to....

Good luck,

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 10:03:47 -0500
Subject: Re: 240 6 cyl problems
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Oh, did you put the plugs back in after checking the compression but before
> trying to spin the crank nut?

I thought of this, too, but if there is no compression, it won't matter
whether the plugs are in or not. :-(

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 10:18:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Clouds and clouds of white smoke
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> What would you do?  Assume it is the intake gasket and put it together and
>> >try it?  Or go to the extra expense and time to pull the heads and have
>> them
>> >checked?
>
>> >Marty
>> >
>> >_________________________________________________________________________
> HI MARTY
> Well you didnt say if there was water on the top of the head where it seals
> to the intake OR if it was dry there or what
> if its dry on top of the valves it is most likely a head then and a cracked
> seat i would think if its all wet where the intake seals to the head try a
> new set of gaskets i assume it hasnt been cold enough YET for it to have
> froze up and busted anything tho
> gordon
>

Marty,

Check your oil level. Do you have more than you are supposed to? I don't see
how you are going to correct this without pulling the heads.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Clouds and clouds of white smoke
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 15:37:36 GMT

Thanks for the replies.

I talked to my machinist and he said it could be a cracked head but most
likely it is the head gasket.

I might end up with a valve job out of the deal, it's turning into one of
those "While we're this far we might as well..."  Hope I can control myself.

Next hurdle is getting the exhaust manifolds off - now where did that
penitrating oil go...

Marty
_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Anti-Seize
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 11:40:17 -0700

It was developed by the military many years ago in the avaition branch to
aid in disassembling mixed parts, that is al/mag alloys and steel alloys
which would electrolyze and couldn't be taken apart without damage.  The
grey compound is still primarily for this application but works very well on
stee/steel applications as well.  The copper compound was developed to work
with welding electrodes which are also copper alloys and doesn't work as
well as an all around compound as the grey does.

You should not use wd-40 to install threaded parts since it is water based
and actually can cause some corrosion in that application.  Use regular
engine oil or anti-seize.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> >Thank you . . . think I'll keep using my WD-40 unless you want to tell me
> >what this Anti-Seize is and if its better.



------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: EFI wiring connectors
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:21:19 -0700

> Guys,
>
> I am having problems getting a good solder joint on some of
> the heavier gauge
> wires. Is there an easier way to get this done (some sort of
> connectors), or
> do I need to get a higher wattage iron, or just hold the one
> I got longer
> (I'm not sure just how much this one is -- I took the wire to
> Radio Shack and
> the guy said this one would do the trick)?
>
> Glenn in TN
> 57 F100 -- in progress

Glenn,
When I have problems soldering it is usually a contamination issue.  Make
sure the wire is clean (not usually a problem) and make sure the tip of the
iron is clean (usually the problem).  If solder balls up on the tip and
falls off it is too dirty.  Clean it off with a wet spong if it is hot or a
little steel wool.  Re-tin the tip.  The solder should wick to the tip and
cling to it.  With dirt on the tip you don't get good heat transfer.

You can use a needle nose pliers as a heat sink.  I usually put a rubber
band on the handle to make a clamp out of them.  With a heat sink you can
heat the end of the wire more without damaging the insulation on the wire.

Avoid acid core solder.  It will continue to eat away at the copper wiring
and cause bad electrical connections later.

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:26:44 -0700
From: John Kahrs <kahrs pixar.com>
Subject: Where does thre tire iron go on a '76 F100?


I found an F100 at a pick-n-pull this weekend that was amazingly intact. I found a stock radio, antenna, nice front bumper, windshield wipers and spare tire bracket. I also found the original jack under the hood under its wing nut bracket. (Now I know what that bracket's for.)

Anyway, I don't have a manual for my truck, does anyone know where the tire iron goes? I have a feeling it's got that hidden away too.

jk


--
John Kahrs

kahrs pixar.com
510.620.3486




------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalo
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:37:28 -0700


>
> OK I give up I read all the LMC catalog emails and there
> isn't an address or
> webpage for getting one. . . I know that I need at least one
> of them plastic
> door panels for my F250 so if you could be kind to this very
> tired woman I
> would appreciate a webpage or address so I know how to get my
> hands on a
> catalog.
>
> Thanks
> Dawn Chere
> '78 F 100
> '78 F 250 XLT

Dawn,
LMC Truck
P.O. Box 14991
Lenexa, KS 66285-4991
1-800-222-5664

The panels look like the oringinal, are located on the back cover in color
and run $139.95 a pair and include door handle cup and hardware.  Original
padded armrest cannot be installed, molded plastic armrest is an integral
part of the panel.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Where does thre tire iron go on a '76 F100?
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:40:39 -0700

Should be near the jack, often held down with the same bracket.  I don't
know for sure on the F, but that's how it is on my E150.

You got lucky finding the jack!  They're supposed to pull the jacks before
they put the vehicles out (they don't allow jacks to be brought into the
yard for safety reasons).

Although my local pick-n-pull now allows gas operated compressors and air
tools to be brought in!  Now if only I had a compressor and some air
tools... :)

-----Original Message-----
From: John Kahrs [mailto:kahrs pixar.com]
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 9:27 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Where does thre tire iron go on a '76 F100?



I found an F100 at a pick-n-pull this weekend that was amazingly intact. I
found a stock radio, antenna, nice front bumper, windshield wipers and spare
tire bracket. I also found the original jack under the hood under its wing
nut bracket. (Now I know what that bracket's for.)

Anyway, I don't have a manual for my truck, does anyone know where the tire
iron goes? I have a feeling it's got that hidden away too.

jk


--
John Kahrs

kahrs pixar.com
510.620.3486



=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Where does thre tire iron go on a '76 F100?
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:46:19 -0700



>
>
> I found an F100 at a pick-n-pull this weekend that was
> amazingly intact. I found a stock radio, antenna, nice front
> bumper, windshield wipers and spare tire bracket. I also
> found the original jack under the hood under its wing nut
> bracket. (Now I know what that bracket's for.)
>
> Anyway, I don't have a manual for my truck, does anyone know
> where the tire iron goes? I have a feeling it's got that
> hidden away too.
>
> jk
>
>
> --
> John Kahrs
>
> kahrs pixar.com
> 510.620.3486
>
>

John
The handle to the jack and the tire iron should both be in the cab of the
truck under the seat.  The handle is a LONG rod with 2 90 degree bends in it
and the other end is flattened down to fit in the jack.  It us usually under
the front of the seat.  The tire iron in mine is bolted to the floor under
the middle of the seat.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 12:51:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Anti-Seize

In a message dated 09/18/2000 11:44:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
gpeters3 lni.net writes:

<< You should not use wd-40 to install threaded parts since it is water based
and actually can cause some corrosion in that application. >>

I wonder why every time I use W-D 40 it repels water? One example I know of
is to displace moister out of a distributor.

Rollie H. Hunt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 12:18:00 -0500
From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2

put the tranny in gear (if manual) and set the parking brake, if you have help,
have them stand on the brakes.

Howardb

John LaGrone wrote:

> > What do I need to do to remove the cap screw on the end of the crankshaft??
> > Drain coolant, remove radiator and use an impact gun on it?
> > Or is there something else I can do to remove the cap screw without taking
> > the radiator out??
> > Will a 1/2" air impact gun remove this bolt??
> > If the timing gears did explode, how many valves got bent when the pistons
> > hit them?
> > If the camshaft broke, how many valves got bent when the pistons hit them?
>
> Keith,
>
> Maybe you can wrap the fan belt around the crank shaft and then hold it
> squeezed together some how so that the crank doesn't turn while you take the
> bolt out. That's not a very good description, but I had the same trouble
> swapping the power steering pulleys about a month back and this was the only
> thing that would work. Of course the ps pump was out on the garage floor and
> easy to get to....
>
> Good luck,
>
> -- John
> jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
> 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
> Dearborn iron rules!!!!
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 390 motor, Holley's
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:27:06 -0700

I call this the "Holley Bog" :-)  I struggled with this on my 460 with the
same carb only number 5411 I think it was.  I even drilled out the
transition passages in the metering block to no avail.

Finally put the stock spread bore back on and it ran much better :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> to my heads). The Holley is a 600cfm 4160 derivative. It is marketed at
> "emissions legal for '72". I think the number is 5184. (perhaps this is
the
> culprit; there is still a bog off idle that I can't seem to get out. I
have
> even upped the pump shot two sizes) And yes, sea level.



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars, anti-seize
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 14:09:56 -0700

I'm not sure how wd-40 repells water but I do know that it is not a good
lubricant/protectant for long duration applications.  It's a handy thing to
have around when taking things apart but not as good as many other, special
purpose penetrating compounds (got to remember to look for some Kroils or
Penn).

I haven't  researched the wd-40 but understand that it is water based,
sorry if I led anyone to believe I am an authority on it.  I use it all the
time but am aware of it's short comings :-)

As many myths happen to appear, this one probably originated in some
military research paper.  I know when I was in service they had a rule to
keep them dry.  Military trucks get spot painted on a weekly basis and
wheels get removed fairly often so this is not much of a problem for them
but it has been proven that this was in error so is no longer taught AFAIK
(except perhaps in the military :-))  Most old timers still hang on to the
theory though I guess......

The grey anti-seize I use (Permatex brand) has a temp range up to 2000
degrees and is recommended for steam applications as well as other things.
It is not soluable in water, is not easily washed off even with soap and
clings very tenaciously to any surface it's applied to so is probably the
best long term lubricant/protectant for threaded or tapered pin applications
you can get.  I apply it to every threaded part I install on anything except
for electrical connections.  It tends to insulate electrical connections so
you should use silicone grease in that application.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Well, I'm not a gentleman and I don't know what Anti-Seize is but won't
> WD-40 work. . . its what I use.  You mean they always said your not
supposed
> to put something on to make it easier to put them on?  good grief I can
> usually barely get lug nuts off


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:10:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Where does thre tire iron go on a '76 F100?
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Anyway, I don't have a manual for my truck, does anyone know where the tire
> iron goes? I have a feeling it's got that hidden away too.

You didn't say what year. On my 79 it's right next to the jack.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:12:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Anti-Seize
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> I wonder why every time I use W-D 40 it repels water? One example I know of
> is to displace moister out of a distributor.
>
> Rollie H. Hunt

Because it isn't water based. It plainly states on the can that it contains
petroleum distillates. But Gary is right about it being no good as a
protectorant. It evaporates and leaves just a little film behind.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 11:24:50 -0700
From: Keith Srb <herbie ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2

At 12:18 PM 09/18/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>put the tranny in gear (if manual) and set the parking brake, if you have
>help,
>have them stand on the brakes.

Thank's I'll give this a try.

Keith
with a wounded 240


------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: axle identification  ??
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 14:35:30 -0400

to all of the list:

In my recent acquisition of my second 79 Bronco, I noticed the axle was not
stock.  I'm trying to identify it so I can purchase the correct brake lines.
(the one on there are cut)  Here's a list of what it looks like:

It has a 14 bolt patter around the differential.
Eight lug pattern with another eight bolts in the middle (on the hub?).
The axle must be taken out in order to get the drum off the shoes (I'm
assuming).
There is an odd 6 slotted nut inside the hub that holds the drum onto the
axle  (about two inches in diameter, and I don't have it!).
The brake lines are held in place from the back (inside) by two bolts.
The whole thing is gargantuan... My guess is it's off a 1 Ton truck?

Any info on this axle would be a great help.  I'd like to know so I could
fix what doesn't work, what fun!

Thanks,

Bob


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 17:40:24 GMT
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2


>I have had limited success using a breaker bar/socket and hammer but be
>aware that this treatment will eventually, if not immediately, lead to
>damaging the breaker bar.  If you remove the pulleys you may be able to get

>a box wrench on it which works much better IMHO but is more work.
>

Dunno if I should admit this or not, but I had good luck (albiet unintentionally)
with the starter and a breaker bar ...

Good thing I caught it before that pulley came off the front, that would've
sucked for my fresh 390 that had only been in the truck for a half an hour...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 14:38:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Anti-Seize


<< You should not use wd-40 to install threaded parts since it is water based
 and actually can cause some corrosion in that application. >> >>

You sure about this?  WD40 was developed for the missle defence system to
keep the BM's from rusting.  The WD actually stands for Water Displacement.
I learned this on Jeopardy!!

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: axle identification  ??
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 11:40:29 -0700

Sounds like  a GM 14-bolt -- About equivalent in strength as a Dana 70

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob [mailto:xavetarx home.com]
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 11:36 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] axle identification ??


to all of the list:

In my recent acquisition of my second 79 Bronco, I noticed the axle was not
stock.  I'm trying to identify it so I can purchase the correct brake lines.
(the one on there are cut)  Here's a list of what it looks like:

It has a 14 bolt patter around the differential.
Eight lug pattern with another eight bolts in the middle (on the hub?).
The axle must be taken out in order to get the drum off the shoes (I'm
assuming).
There is an odd 6 slotted nut inside the hub that holds the drum onto the
axle  (about two inches in diameter, and I don't have it!).
The brake lines are held in place from the back (inside) by two bolts.
The whole thing is gargantuan... My guess is it's off a 1 Ton truck?

Any info on this axle would be a great help.  I'd like to know so I could
fix what doesn't work, what fun!

Thanks,

Bob

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Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:10:05 GMT
Subject: Re: Anti-Seize

><< You should not use wd-40 to install threaded parts since it is water based

> and actually can cause some corrosion in that application. >>
>
>I wonder why every time I use W-D 40 it repels water? One example I know of

>is to displace moister out of a distributor.
>

I think that's why its called Water Dispersant or something like that, someone
posted the whole history of WD-40 some time ago, it was developed for the minuteman
missile, or one of those that hides in a silo, they needed it to last for years
without rusting, WD-40 was supposed to prevent rust by forcing the water out
... so it being water based itself and causing rust seems somehow backwards
...

Maybe I've got that url around here somewhere ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:11:30 GMT
Subject: Re: Anti-Seize

Oh yeah, one more thing, the brand they use at John Deere is called Nevr-Seeze
I believe, I've got a can of it at home and its pretty good stuff ... my girlfriend's
dad gave it to me, he calls it "next guy stuff," cause it helps the next guy
out, and if you're the next guy you'll really appreciate usin it, and hate yourself
if you don't :)


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:13:47 GMT
Subject: Re: Fw: Lugs on Fords



> Ford once
>had an F-4, not sure if there was an F400 until the Super Duty that was a
>heavy 1-ton mostly and these always had these wheels, tho not always a ....


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