Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Sat, 16 Sep 2000 22:42:40 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 22:42:40 -0400 (EDT)
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To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #248
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sat, 16 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 248

In This Issue:
sparkplug page
How much for a 9" center section
Front frame Boxed in..when??
crank damper bolts
Re: How much for a 9" center section
EFI wiring connectors
Re: EFI wiring connectors
Wheel lugs
Onan Gen.
66 door panels
Fw: Lugs on Fords
Re: Seattle Get Together
Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog
Re: 66 door panels
Re: No heat suggestion - swap the hoses
Re: 240 6 cyl problems
Re: Just a couple of questions
Which winch
Re: Which winch
Re: Just a couple questions
Re: 240 6 cyl problems
Re: No heat suggestion - swap the hoses
Re: 428CJ Balance question
Re: 428CJ Balance question
Re: Just a couple questions
64-66 Door panels
Re: Fw: Lugs on Fords
Re: 428CJ Balance question
Re: Just a couple of questions
Re: EFI wiring connectors

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: sparkplug page
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 14:26:41 GMT

Thanks, that just what I was looking for.

Marty
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 08:43:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel Mandernack <danatgm_1999 yahoo.com>
Subject: How much for a 9" center section

Can you guys give me some idea what I should expect to
pay for a 3.89 open 9" center section?  I'm shopping
for one and really don't have a feel for prices.
Thanks,
Dan
'63 F100 4x4


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 11:59:05 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: Front frame Boxed in..when??

When did Ford start Boxing in the front half of the frame on 4x4
trucks??
I know this 61 isnt but my 68 is.....Is there a way to box in the front
frame to make it
stronger.
Joe


------------------------------

From: "Mike Mackie" <bigred connect.ab.ca>
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 09:57:57 -0600
Subject: crank damper bolts

On the last couple of 302s I've had to take the front cover off of, the method
of getting the damper bolt loose I've used is to snap a pair of vise grips on
one flange of the pulley in a way that they'll wedge against the frame rail
or block when I apply the flex bar.

------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: How much for a 9" center section
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 08:00:25 -0800

Prices I was quoted when I was looking for one 5 months ago were in the
$100~175 range.   But I was not concerned with the dif or gears. since your
looking for a 9" with a particular set of gears,,, that may cost a little
more.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Mandernack <danatgm_1999 yahoo.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, September 16, 2000 7:45 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] How much for a 9" center section


>Can you guys give me some idea what I should expect to
>pay for a 3.89 open 9" center section?  I'm shopping
>for one and really don't have a feel for prices.
>Thanks,
>Dan
>'63 F100 4x4
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/
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------------------------------

From: Seventy4SCab aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 12:09:17 EDT
Subject: EFI wiring connectors

Guys,

I am having problems getting a good solder joint on some of the heavier gauge
wires. Is there an easier way to get this done (some sort of connectors), or
do I need to get a higher wattage iron, or just hold the one I got longer
(I'm not sure just how much this one is -- I took the wire to Radio Shack and
the guy said this one would do the trick)?

Glenn in TN
57 F100 -- in progress

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 11:47:57 -0500
From: Ron Martens <martens flash.net>
Subject: Re: EFI wiring connectors

A higher wattage iron would help as well as rosin type flux, try not to use acid
types as they hard to clean. Have fun

Seventy4SCab aol.com wrote:

> Guys,
>
> I am having problems getting a good solder joint on some of the heavier gauge
> wires. Is there an easier way to get this done (some sort of connectors), or
> do I need to get a higher wattage iron, or just hold the one I got longer
> (I'm not sure just how much this one is -- I took the wire to Radio Shack and
> the guy said this one would do the trick)?
>
> Glenn in TN
> 57 F100 -- in progress
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: Wheel lugs
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 12:12:26 -0500

On the question of wheel lugs. The one-ton dually wheels are different than
the single wheels in that they have a "coining" or raised area that the nut
pushes on that is alternated between front and back of wheel surface, (don't
know why). Perhaps you got Ch*** wheels or D**** as they have same pattern
(8-lug) but don't pull up the same.
Go to a good old-fashioned tire store, (one that does truck tires is best)
and they have catalogs with wheels available and can give you specs for what
you need. Take stud measurement and maybe a "pattern" of your lug spacing.
                                        "G"



------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: Onan Gen.
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 12:27:25 -0500

Must have been a special order commercial truck w/this unit. It won't be any
use to you if you don't need power away from home. I'ld say sell, sell....if
running should get good money. Should have had for Y2K time, could sell any
gen then! Should be good for several hundred bucks I would think. The engine
alone is valuable even if gen doesn't work.
                               "G"



------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 66 door panels
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 12:32:55 -0500

Lots of hotrod mags have articles on building your own panels for doors out
of plywood or backer cardboard and shaping them with foam and layers
built-up, then covering with cloth to make what you want. I would check
those mags out maybe from Library for older issues. There is a web-site
called www.roddoors.com or similar that makes or sells different panels, saw
in mag. Haven't went to it yet, check it out. The 67 to 72 trucks are a
totally different body and nothing is gonna work on your older style.
                                    "G"



------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: Fw: Lugs on Fords
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 12:36:23 -0500


----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
To: <61-79list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 11:53 AM
Subject: Lugs on Fords


Not to say you guys are wrong, BUT I think you'll find that the six-llug
wheels you're talking about are Budd wheels with 1-1/2" nuts and Big holes.
They were used on bigger trucks like 500-600 series and some on 1-tons if
they had heavy suspension or odd tire sizes like 17.5 or 19.5". Ford once
had an F-4, not sure if there was an F400 until the Super Duty that was a
heavy 1-ton mostly and these always had these wheels, tho not always a
dually.
                            "G"





------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 10:46:49 -0700
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Seattle Get Together

CJ:

We'll wait for you, CJ.  It's fun having you a a part of our little
event.

Re: Mike in Burien, he just moved to the Bay area of California (with
his cool truck) to care for his ailing father.  I don't have a current
address for him yet.

--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net
Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
  (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 13:04:59 -0500


Correct me if I am wrong, but all the panels for a 66 only cover the top third of the door. I want the entire door covered. I realize I will have to remove this panel to access the door locks, window mechanism, etc. I am fine with that. You see, I have some metal cut out of the door just to the left of that removable metal panel. So with that panel installed, I have about a 2" x1 foot hole in my door. I realize I could weld in metal or something and make the door look original again.... but I don't want to.

If there are full size door panels made for a 66, I would really appreciate knowing where I can get them, page #, cost, etc.


---Garrett www.1966ford.com



 ----- Original Message -----
 From: EffieFrd aol.com
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 2:07 AM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog


 Garrett,
 I still haven't figured out why you would want to modify '67 panels for your
 '66.  They make door panels for your '66.  I believe you can get them through
 Carolina Classics, Dennis Carpenter, or John's F-Fun Hundreds.

 And for that metal panel at the bottom, its easily removable for a
 reason...access to the inner workings of the door.  You get a panel from a
 '67, or a custom one that covers the whole inside of the door, you're gonna
 have to pull it off every time you need to work on those power windows or
 power door locks.

 -Mel
 1965 F100 Custom Cab
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 Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: 66 door panels
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 13:06:29 -0500


Thank you very much!

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Gary Perry
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 12:32 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] 66 door panels


 Lots of hotrod mags have articles on building your own panels for doors out
 of plywood or backer cardboard and shaping them with foam and layers
 built-up, then covering with cloth to make what you want. I would check
 those mags out maybe from Library for older issues. There is a web-site
 called www.roddoors.com or similar that makes or sells different panels, saw
 in mag. Haven't went to it yet, check it out. The 67 to 72 trucks are a
 totally different body and nothing is gonna work on your older style.
                                      "G"


 =============================================================
 To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
 Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 15:16:07 EDT
Subject: Re: No heat suggestion - swap the hoses

Maybe some are non-directional, but not all. In my experience, the hot water
supply line gets connected to the top of the core and the "cold" (or less hot
shall we say) gets connected to the bottom for maximum heat dissipation. Just
like most of our truck radiators. My understanding is that it's got something
to do with heat rising and other such thermal stuff. If connected in reverse,
the heat rising from the bottom of the core would reheat the area above it
negating it's effect. Maybe someone else can explain it better, but the cores
Ive dealt with  have had a profound reduction in heat output when connected
backwards!

In a message dated 9/15/2000 2:59:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
flash1 alltel.net writes:

<< the way the heater hoses are hooked up
> makes a difference in the operation of the heater core. If you have the
> hoses reversed, you won't get heat out of the thing.
==========================================================
heaters are Non Directional if it made a difference on which way the hoses
were hooked up it mustve been because of a partial plugging of the system in
it
onmy 79 f 100 i tried using the high output heater core and it would not fit
into the standard core box in it
gordon
 >>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 16:53:52 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III" <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 240 6 cyl problems

At 07:21 AM 9/16/00, you wrote:
>Removed distributor - It's O.K.  Shear Pin is still in place and the rotor
>turns without any problems.

Mine did too, till I put it in a vise (loosely, with a rag protecting the
outer shaft casing) and could spin the drive gear with a pair of
pliers.  Shear pin looked fine, but was broke.  But mine is a 335/385
distributor.

What made mine mess up was junk in the oil pump, could this cause the same
problem in 240 6 cyl?  Although with no compression, it's sounding more
like timing gear/ cam problems.

Oh, did you put the plugs back in after checking the compression but before
trying to spin the crank nut?

I find an impact wrench to work especially well for that bolt.




------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 17:01:36 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III" <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Just a couple of questions

At 07:21 AM 9/16/00, you wrote:
>Well here is my opinion.. I own a 78 Bronco, and would never consider
>anything less then a 9500# winch AND a snatch block "enough"  Reality is the
>bronco weighs in the range of 4500~5200. Add rolling resistance, added
>resistance from mud, suction, snow pack, rock ledge, gravity and a 8000#
>winch is really not enough.... Now add the fact that a on a Warn 8274 , the
>cable on it's 4th layer (short pull to the anchor) your 8000# winch is only
>capable of pulling 6600#.  A warn X8000 on the 4th layer is 6230, a HS9500I
>on 4th layer is 7400#, a M12000 on 4th layer is 9770.  This in itself is
>reason enough to go the Bigger is better route.

I have a 78 F-150 and my X8000i (originally purchased when I had a smaller
Isuzu truck) has had no problem at all pulling my truck out of 35" deep mud
(top of my tires), and had no problem at all dragging my F-150 around
Tellico, NC when I went four wheeling there (including grounding on several
rock ledges.)

It's never drained my battery, even if I use the winch with the truck
off.  Sometimes you have to let it cool off for 5 minutes, but that is an
exceptional pull, like when I pulled a Bobcat out of a mudhole that was
buried to the frame (Bobcat weighs 7000 lbs, and I pulled it out with a 91
Isuzu P'up and the X8000i, just double lined, and chained winch mount to a
tree behind Isuzu so it wouldn't be dragged forward.)

I wouldn't consider going four wheeling without a winch now.





------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Which winch
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 14:00:52 -0800

Not an argument here, just my thoughts and opinions..

here is Warns recomendation for choosing a winch.

Choosing the right Self-Recovery  Winch
 You'll need to take into consideration the vehicle
 size and weight when determining which winch
 to choose. There are a couple of key factors to keep in mind
 when selecting your winch: First, figure the
 vehicle's weight, remembering to add the
 weight of the passengers and gear to the base
 vehicle weight. Second, choose a winch with a
 single line rating at least 1-1/2 time greater than
 the vehicle's weight. The idea is that the winch
 should be able to pull the vehicle's weight plus
 overcome the added resistance caused by
 whatever the vehicle is stuck in.

How to to choose a winch:
                                   Gross weight of
                                   the vehicle x 1.5 =
                                   maxium size
                                   winch for the
                                   vehicle.

Ok, so I have a weight ticket here for my bronco, weighed when it was loaded
for the trail.. No extra camping gear, just two days food, water, tools,
spares, two dogs, and me.. 5860 pounds

So that's 8690#.. MINIMUM....  Now choose a winch that will pull that weight
(or more) on the third or fourth wrap of cable..(do you always need, or even
have a anchor to use that uses all your cable?)  I have smoked a M8000,
broke the case on a 8274 (not the winches fault) and now have a HS9500I.
Wish I could have afforded a M12000.... maybe next time.

In any case those are my reasons for recommending a larger than 8000# winch.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
                                   -----Original Message-----
From: George W. Selby, III <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, September 16, 2000 1:05 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Just a couple of questions


>At 07:21 AM 9/16/00, you wrote:
>>Well here is my opinion.. I own a 78 Bronco, and would never consider
>>anything less then a 9500# winch AND a snatch block "enough"  Reality is
the
>>bronco weighs in the range of 4500~5200. Add rolling resistance, added
>>resistance from mud, suction, snow pack, rock ledge, gravity and a 8000#
>>winch is really not enough.... Now add the fact that a on a Warn 8274 ,
the
>>cable on it's 4th layer (short pull to the anchor) your 8000# winch is
only
>>capable of pulling 6600#.  A warn X8000 on the 4th layer is 6230, a
HS9500I
>>on 4th layer is 7400#, a M12000 on 4th layer is 9770.  This in itself is
>>reason enough to go the Bigger is better route.
>
>I have a 78 F-150 and my X8000i (originally purchased when I had a smaller
>Isuzu truck) has had no problem at all pulling my truck out of 35" deep mud
>(top of my tires), and had no problem at all dragging my F-150 around
>Tellico, NC when I went four wheeling there (including grounding on several
>rock ledges.)
>
>It's never drained my battery, even if I use the winch with the truck
>off.  Sometimes you have to let it cool off for 5 minutes, but that is an
>exceptional pull, like when I pulled a Bobcat out of a mudhole that was
>buried to the frame (Bobcat weighs 7000 lbs, and I pulled it out with a 91
>Isuzu P'up and the X8000i, just double lined, and chained winch mount to a
>tree behind Isuzu so it wouldn't be dragged forward.)
>
>I wouldn't consider going four wheeling without a winch now.
>
>
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Which winch
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 18:35:33 -0700

I agree Erik, have you ever walked through a swamp in hip boots or knee
boots and got a foot stuck in a foot of black muck mixed with blue clay?
How much power did it take to get your foot out and were you able to do it
with your boot on?  I would venture to guess that being mired to the axles
in goo would at least double the weight of your vehicle if not considerably
more than that.

I haven't bought my first winch yet but when I do it will be the largest one
I can afford.  Those 20k PTO jobbies Boyce equipment has are on the top of
my list right now :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> So that's 8690#.. MINIMUM....  Now choose a winch that will pull that
weight
> (or more) on the third or fourth wrap of cable..(do you always need, or
even
> have a anchor to use that uses all your cable?)  I have smoked a M8000,
> broke the case on a 8274 (not the winches fault) and now have a HS9500I.
> Wish I could have afforded a M12000.... maybe next time.



------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Just a couple questions
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 18:35:06 -0400

Are the HD Dana 44 spindles and dual piston calipers a direct swap for a '77
F150 4X4 set-up?

>With stock tires on them they stop just fine but put 33's or larger on them
>and the brakes go away in a linear fashion with the diameter.  One upgrade
>that helps is the HD dana 44 spindles and brakes with the dual piston
setup.




------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 240 6 cyl problems
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 18:40:58 -0700

Gang, if you try to turn the gear on the shaft in a vice with vise grips or
pliers you will damage the roll pin if it is, indeed, intact.  The best way
to determine if it has been sheared is to attempt to punch it out.  It's a
roll pin and should move easily with a proper sized punch.  This will also
tell you if it has been sheared part way since it won't move in that case.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Mine did too, till I put it in a vise (loosely, with a rag protecting the
> outer shaft casing) and could spin the drive gear with a pair of
> pliers.  Shear pin looked fine, but was broke.  But mine is a 335/385


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: No heat suggestion - swap the hoses
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 18:42:37 -0700

I agree and I believe the phenomenon is called "Convection" :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> like most of our truck radiators. My understanding is that it's got
something
> to do with heat rising and other such thermal stuff. If connected in
reverse,



------------------------------

From: "Ted and Sarah Freeman" <oldparts ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 428CJ Balance question
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 19:08:04 -0400

Bill,

Not necessarily.  I have the 1UB crank and mine is 0 balance on the front,
which uses the standard 390 spacer.  Now my flexplate does have the weights.
I know some 428 have the hatchet type spacer for balance.

-Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: bill poudrier <poudrier ma.ultranet.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, September 16, 2000 6:45 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] 428CJ Balance question


>I just acquired a 428CJ in pieces.  What I have not found yet
>is the little weight that goes on the snout of the crank.  My
>crank is numbered 1UB.  Do all 428CJ's use this balance.  I
>do know that they are supposed to be externally balanced.
>Thanks in advance for your help.
>
>Bill
>
>
>=============================================================
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>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Ted and Sarah Freeman" <oldparts ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 428CJ Balance question
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 19:09:40 -0400

Oh yeah...I'd also take it to a reputable machine shop and have them look at
it.  They should be able to tell you which one you should need.

-Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: bill poudrier <poudrier ma.ultranet.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, September 16, 2000 6:45 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] 428CJ Balance question


>I just acquired a 428CJ in pieces.  What I have not found yet
>is the little weight that goes on the snout of the crank.  My
>crank is numbered 1UB.  Do all 428CJ's use this balance.  I
>do know that they are supposed to be externally balanced.
>Thanks in advance for your help.
>
>Bill
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Just a couple questions
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 20:02:56 -0700

According to the gang they work on 78/79's but not sure about the 77's.  If
they have ball joints instead of trunion bearings in the yokes I suspect
they will interchange.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)



> Are the HD Dana 44 spindles and dual piston calipers a direct swap for a
'77
> F150 4X4 set-up?



------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: 64-66 Door panels
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 22:58:02 -0400

From: "Garrett Nelson" << Snipped>>
I don't like the way the doors look without any sort of panel covering them.

I thought if the LMC plastic panels would fit with some trimming then they
would be perfect for me.
I AM going to cover the doors with something... I was just wondering if the
LMC panels could be made to fit or not. If not I make my own or have
somebody else make me some custom ones.
=====================================================
Garrett, the Custom Cabs are the only ones with that body style that
actually HAD a "door panel", and it only covered about a third of the door.
You've probably seen them in the repro catalogs. You'd need the Custom Cab
aluminum trim to go around them too, and you'd have to drill the appropriate
holes if you don't already have them. (The standard cabs didn't have the
holes)
  As far as using the 67 panels, I doubt they'd work as made, due to the
holes for the shafts not being where you'd need them, PLUS the 64-66 doors
aren't flat, but bulge out a little right where the factory door panels go.
Now if you were to make your own, you could make them in any shape you want
and cover that bulged area as well as the access panel at the bottom. That's
probably your best alternative for what your wanting to do. That way you can
put the switches and etc. where you want. You can use just about any armrest
you want since that part of the door IS flat.  I've seen a few like that at
shows and it looks nice. Good luck, Phil (64 Custom Cab)










------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 23:19:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Scott Hall <sch8489 garnet.acns.fsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Fw: Lugs on Fords

I was sitting in traffic just today next to an old ford with the odd-lug
wheels.  I noticed to count 'cause it was on the list.  so chalk up
another one.

scott

On Sat, 16 Sep 2000, Gary Perry wrote:

>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
> To: <61-79list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 11:53 AM
> Subject: Lugs on Fords
>
>
> Not to say you guys are wrong, BUT I think you'll find that the six-llug
> wheels you're talking about are Budd wheels with 1-1/2" nuts and Big holes.
> They were used on bigger trucks like 500-600 series and some on 1-tons if
> they had heavy suspension or odd tire sizes like 17.5 or 19.5". Ford once
> had an F-4, not sure if there was an F400 until the Super Duty that was a
> heavy 1-ton mostly and these always had these wheels, tho not always a
> dually.
>                              "G"
>
>
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 23:19:35 EDT
Subject: Re: 428CJ Balance question

only the 428 super cobra jet had the counter balancer.

------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Just a couple of questions
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 20:40:22 -0700

> Reality is the
> bronco weighs in the range of 4500~5200.
My early Bronco weighs 5500 lbs.  I've never been in a situation where the
8274 hasn't been able to free me from a stuck.   The 8274 is built way
stronger than the planetary geared winches offered today, is totally field
rebuildable, and can be abused regularly without fail.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is: The Feel of Warm Deer Guts in My Hands.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
To: "fte" <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 11:24 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Just a couple of questions


>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rob Hutson <tx4wheeler cs.com>
>
> >
> >> Hey guys and guyettes, first, the Bronco is alive again after the crash
i
> >> was in a few weeks ago.  Now to the questions. Winches for a 78 with
36's
> >> does anyoue have any advise on brands and how many pounds I should get?
> >> Most of my buddies run Warn 8274's but they are on jeeps, I love the
> speed
> >> of these things but I dont know if 8000 is enough.  I would appreciate
> any
> >> coments you all have.
>
> Well here is my opinion.. I own a 78 Bronco, and would never consider
> anything less then a 9500# winch AND a snatch block "enough"  Add rolling
resistance, added
> resistance from mud, suction, snow pack, rock ledge, gravity and a 8000#
> winch is really not enough.... Now add the fact that a on a Warn 8274 ,
the
> cable on it's 4th layer (short pull to the anchor) your 8000# winch is
only
> capable of pulling 6600#.  A warn X8000 on the 4th layer is 6230, a
HS9500I
> on 4th layer is 7400#, a M12000 on 4th layer is 9770.  This in itself is
> reason enough to go the Bigger is better route.
>
> I am also on the bigbroncos.com list...... some 700 members,,, none of
which
> that I know of would admit a 8000# winch is enough either.
>
> >Next question, Brakes... I have owned many 70's
> >fords
> >> 2 and 4 wheel drive and the brakes have always been scary at best, do
ant
> >of
> >> you 78-79 Bronco owners have any recommendations as far as brakes?
>
> Humm, suggestion?? other than plan ahead and leave lot's of room in front
of
> you?? lol..  I believe it's as simple as every last component in the
system
> being in perfect working order. The system is marginal at best, add bigger
> tires and any one component or worse....several components not up to the
> standards and you have brakes that simply do not work.
>
> Erik Marquez
> bronco78 alaska.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
> Home of the BB decal
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: EFI wiring connectors
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 20:50:12 -0700

Glenn,
I used Sure Seal connectors from NAPA.  These connectors have a ring of
solder inside them and heat shrink on the outside.  All you need is a heat
gun to install them.  They are very easy to use and make a good, positive
connection.  They are a little pricey (compared to the cheap crimp type) at
about $3 for 3-4 connectors, but they are worth the money.  Just make sure
you get the solder type connectors and not the crimp type connectors.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is: The Feel of Warm Deer Guts in My Hands.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Seventy4SCab aol.com>
To: <derrar internetcds.com>; <schaefer plastekgroup.com>;
<61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 9:09 AM ....


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