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Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 07:21:52 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #247
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Fri, 15 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 247

In This Issue:
Re: Onan Generator
Seattle get together!
Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog
Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog
Re: Onan Generator
Re: vernacular
Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog
Just a couple of questions
sparkplug page
Re: sparkplug page
Calling all Inline 6 Guru's
Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's
Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's
Re: Just a couple of questions
Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's
Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's
Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's
Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's
Re: Hydrogen power for anyone
Re: Just a couple of questions
Re: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '67 F100!
Re: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '67 F100!
Oil Pan Replacement
Re: Just a couple of questions
Re: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '67 F100!
Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2
Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog
All this non truck talk! Lets talk '66 F100!
Re: Hydrogen power for anyone
Re: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '66 F100!
428CJ Balance question
Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2
Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 17:07:39 -0400
From: bill poudrier <poudrier ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: Re: Onan Generator

I have a 73 F350 with DRW's and the wheels are about $60 apiece new.
I don't know if yours are the 8 Lug non dual or not.
They have a big dish and the lug nuts are about an inch and
not 13/16" and very hard to find used!


69 Talladega 428CJ
79 F150 351M
69 Torino GT 390 4V
69 Torino GT 351W 4V
73 F350 360 2V
And the list goes on


At 03:54 PM 9/15/00 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
>Doss Halsey wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Also, the new acquisiton has 16" split rims. Suggestions on wheels/tires?
>
>My tire man suggested that I "take a torch to them split rims b4 someone gets
>killed". I gather he had a bad experience. I ended up driving 1.5 hrs to
get 2
>other rims, one which I guess was from a 1-ton because the holes were bigger
>and the lug nuts would not snug up to the rim. Of course we didn't notice
this
>until the new tire was all mounted and balanced!
>
>Anyone ... do 1-ton single wheelers have bigger studs? Or do I have an
odd-duck
>rim?
>
>Gregster
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =============================================================
>> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "J.X. Schulz" <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
Subject: Seattle get together!
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 15:45:20 -0600

Hey Tim,

Well, this Seattle trip has been postponed to early November.....if you
wanted to get the gang together before then, my feelings won't be hurt TOO
much....

Hope to meet up with everyone then. Is Mike in Burien still with us??????

I want to hear that hot rod motor again.....

CJ


------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 17:47:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog

Garrett:  Where shall I begin...Is there something wrong with yours or are
you just trying to upgrade for a more modern truck feel?

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

In a message dated 9/15/2000 12:17:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
garrettnelson writeme.com writes:

> What are the differences? I am fine with drilling, grinding, welding, etc.
I
> love modifying things.

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 17:48:28 -0500


I don't like the way the doors look without any sort of panel covering them. Yes I am making things more modern. I also have a place where some metal is cut out on the passenger door. So I want something to cover up that spot.

I thought if the LMC plastic panels would fit with some trimming then they would be perfect for me.

I am not trying to make my truck look and feel like it did in 66 brand new. I am trying to make it better. That means power windows, power locks with keyless entry, nice stereo, etc. I like to customize things so they look and work the way I want them to.

I AM going to cover the doors with something... I was just wondering if the LMC panels could be made to fit or not. If not I make my own or have somebody else make me some custom ones.


---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: TBeeee aol.com
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 4:47 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog


 Garrett:  Where shall I begin...Is there something wrong with yours or are
 you just trying to upgrade for a more modern truck feel?

 Thom
 1967 F-Series Registry
 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

 In a message dated 9/15/2000 12:17:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
 garrettnelson writeme.com writes:

 > What are the differences? I am fine with drilling, grinding, welding, etc.
 I
 > love modifying things.



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 18:48:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Onan Generator

In a message dated 9/15/00 1:06:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
greg gregster.com writes:

<< Anyone ... do 1-ton single wheelers have bigger studs? Or do I have an
odd-duck
rim? >>

My 1ton does.  The lugnuts on it are 1 1/16 inch!

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 18:50:21 EDT
Subject: Re: vernacular

In a message dated 9/15/00 1:54:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
sch8489 garnet.acns.fsu.edu writes:

<< What's the new generation vernacular?....."Chill Baby" : >>

Latest word Ive heard was "chillaxin"  Im only 21 and already feel old....

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 18:56:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog

Hey Garrett:  I have my 66 in storage, so I just can't compare the two for
you and give you good, solid information to back up my gut impression.  I
recollect some distinct differences though.  Maybe one of them there lurkers
will pop in here and bail me out.

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

From: "Rob Hutson" <tx4wheeler cs.com>
Subject: Just a couple of questions
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 20:55:40 -0500


> Hey guys and guyettes, first, the Bronco is alive again after the crash i
> was in a few weeks ago.  Now to the questions. Winches for a 78 with 36's
> does anyoue have any advise on brands and how many pounds I should get?
> Most of my buddies run Warn 8274's but they are on jeeps, I love the speed
> of these things but I dont know if 8000 is enough.  I would appreciate any
> coments you all have.  Next question, Brakes... I have owned many 70's
fords
> 2 and 4 wheel drive and the brakes have always been scary at best, do ant
of
> you 78-79 Bronco owners have any recomendations as far as brakes?  I dont
> want to spend a lot of money like converting to rear disks or anything, I
> just want the brakes to work as well as they are supposed to.  On my 78
> F-150  4X4 I have the same brake problem.  You have to push real hard and
> the pedal stops about an inch off the floor.  You cant lock up a single
tire
> on pavement.  I replaced the master sylinder and brake booster and all of
> the pads/shoes and it didnt help any.  The things I didnt replace were the
> rotors/drums, proportioning valve, wheel cylinders and calipers.  Do you
> think any of these could be the problem? Any advise would be greatly
> appreciated, gets scarry going down the hills!!
>
> Robert Hutson (TX4Wheeler)
> 1978 Ford Bronco
> 2BigBroncos South Chapter
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/hutsonr
>


------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: sparkplug page
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 02:04:45 GMT

I remember someones web page with a section that shows how plugs look in
different situations - too lean, too rich, ect.

It had a picture and description of each, about 6-8 different ones.  Anyone
have any idea what I'm talking about?  I would like to get to it again.

As always, thank you for your assistance.

Marty
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://profiles.msn.com.


------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 22:09:04 EDT
Subject: Re: sparkplug page

Here's a link that has more than you may want to know about spark plugs.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.htm

Page two has the color charts as well as ongoing tech discussion with each
picture.  Enjoy!

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

In a message dated 9/15/2000 10:05:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
colman76 hotmail.com writes:

> It had a picture and description of each, about 6-8 different ones.  Anyone
>  have any idea what I'm talking about?  I would like to get to it again.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 19:41:31 -0700
From: Keith Srb <herbie ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's

Hi Gang,

I have got a 66 F-100 with a 240 CI In line 6 that my dad bought new 2-17-66.  It has 106,000 original miles on it.  As far as I can remember, the engine has never been touched other than to do a normal maintenance, water pump, set the valves.  Nothing major has been done to the engine.

Now for the problem.  I was on the freeway going to work Monday when I heard a loud "pop" come from the engine.  As soon as it popped, the engine died and would not restart.  Got it towed home and finally got a chance to look at it tonight.  I noticed that the coil wire wasn't down all the way into the distributor cap.  Pulled the coil wire and noticed that the end was black.  I took the distributor cap off and turned the engine over with the starter.  The rotor didn't turn at all!  I am still planning on running a compression check just to see what else may be wrong.  I haven't removed the distributor yet either.

1. What else should I check and/or look out for?

2. Is there anything else I should replace while I am replacing the distributor?

Thanks in Advance

Keith Srb
with a wounded 240 In line 6
www.60sfords.com


------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 22:44:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's

It almost sounds like you had a "distributor" induced back-fire which may
have caused further damage.  After you pull the distributor, verify the cam
is turning by looking down into the hole while turning the engine.  If that
looks o.k. then verify that the distributor drive gear didn't have it's shear
pin sheared.  I could also see your timing gear as having been shattered, but
you can rule that out as long as your cam properly turning.

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee


In a message dated 9/15/2000 10:36:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
herbie ford-trucks.com writes:

> 1. What else should I check and/or look out for?
>
>  2. Is there anything else I should replace while I am replacing the
> distributor?

------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 21:50:33 -0500

   Keith, pull the valve cover and crank the motor over. Watch and make
sure all the rocker arms are moving. I thought I had torn up a timing chain
once, but when the chain went south, it snapped the camshaft into two
pieces. Of course, I didn't discover this untill I had it all back
together... Learn from my experience! I know 240/300's have timing gears,
but I used my 390 as an example. Check to make sure the distributor gear is
secure on the shaft-those rollpins have been known to shear.
 It looks like someone beat me to it(Thom), but now you know why to check
to be sure the cam is turning. Good Luck!
Jason Kendrick
'70 F100 390/C6
'78 F150 Supercab 460/C6, and one garage under the front bumper!

From: Keith Srb <herbie ford-trucks.com> wrote;

> 1. What else should I check and/or look out for?
> Keith Srb
> with a wounded 240 In line 6
> www.60sfords.com
>



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Just a couple of questions
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 22:50:11 -0700

Proportioning valve must be in good shape on this model or the brakes are
very mushy no matter how much you bleed them etc..  One thing you can do is
put F-350 rear cylinders on it.  Mine cost all of $4.95, new, each :-)

With stock tires on them they stop just fine but put 33's or larger on them
and the brakes go away in a linear fashion with the diameter.  One upgrade
that helps is the HD dana 44 spindles and brakes with the dual piston setup.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

my 78
> > F-150  4X4 I have the same brake problem.  You have to push real hard
and
> > the pedal stops about an inch off the floor.  You cant lock up a single
> tire



------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 22:58:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's

Jason --Good advice, but the valve cover pull will probably cost a gasket.
The distributor pull will only cause frustration when Keith tries to line it
all back up at TDC!  The compression test that he plans on running is a good
idea too because if the cam isn't turning it will show as  no compression in
a few cylinders.  These do have gears as mentioned and I have one on the rack
from my 66 240 that is almost split in two.  Fortunately, I detected it
before it went, but the noise it made led me to tear the motor down for a
complete rebuild last year.

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

In a message dated 9/15/2000 10:52:07 PM
Eastern Daylight Time, kendrick mddc.com writes:

> Learn from my experience! I know 240/300's have timing gears,
>  but I used my 390 as an example. Check to make sure the distributor gear is
>  secure on the shaft-those rollpins have been known to shear.
>    It looks like someone beat me to it(Thom), but now you know why to check
>  to be sure the cam is turning. Good Luck!

------------------------------

From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 22:14:44 -0500

Keith email me back i lost your email address

davidl tbcnet.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Srb <herbie ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, September 15, 2000 9:36 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Calling all Inline 6 Guru's


>Hi Gang,
>
>I have got a 66 F-100 with a 240 CI In line 6 that my dad bought new
2-17-66.  It has 106,000 original miles on it.  As far as I can remember,
the engine has never been touched other than to do a normal maintenance,
water pump, set the valves.  Nothing major has been done to the engine.
>
>Now for the problem.  I was on the freeway going to work Monday when I
heard a loud "pop" come from the engine.  As soon as it popped, the engine
died and would not restart.  Got it towed home and finally got a chance to
look at it tonight.  I noticed that the coil wire wasn't down all the way
into the distributor cap.  Pulled the coil wire and noticed that the end was
black.  I took the distributor cap off and turned the engine over with the
starter.  The rotor didn't turn at all!  I am still planning on running a
compression check just to see what else may be wrong.  I haven't removed the
distributor yet either.
>
>1. What else should I check and/or look out for?
>
>2. Is there anything else I should replace while I am replacing the
distributor?
>
>Thanks in Advance
>
>Keith Srb
>with a wounded 240 In line 6
>www.60sfords.com
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 22:09:52 -0500

I'd forgotten he was going to do a compression test. It will take longer,
but it is a better way to check.
He'll get an overall view of the condition of the cylinders, rings, and
valves. Good call!
Jason

----- Original Message -----
<TBeeee aol.com> wrote;



> Jason --Good advice, but the valve cover pull will probably cost a gasket.
> The distributor pull will only cause frustration when Keith tries to line
it
> all back up at TDC!  The compression test that he plans on running is a
good
> idea too because if the cam isn't turning it will show as  no compression
in
> a few cylinders.  These do have gears as mentioned and I have one on the
rack
> from my 66 240 that is almost split in two.  Fortunately, I detected it
> before it went, but the noise it made led me to tear the motor down for a
> complete rebuild last year.
>
> Thom



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 20:39:52 -0700
From: Keith Srb <herbie ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's

Thanks for the advice guys!

I appreciate it!

Later
Keith


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Hydrogen power for anyone
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 00:14:08 -0400

Hydrogen power for anyone

==============================
i lost the link for this by accident could someone resend it to me
thanks
gordon


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Just a couple of questions
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 21:22:20 -0700

I have run several different 8274's over the years.  Excellent winches, hard
to break, seem to last forever.
Unless you are winching out of deep, gooey thick mud regularly, it should be
more than enough for your Bronco.  My brother in law has one on his '79 and
has never had a problem with not enough pulling power.

As for the braking problem, you might want to look at the rubber brake lines
at the front wheels and the ones that attach the frame to the axle.  Every
4WD disc braked Ford that I've owned had rubber brake hoses that were almost
pulled in two.  This can cause a low pedal because there is actually a
slight amount leaking through the rubber.  They could also be bulging the
rubber hoses.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is the Feel of Warm Deer Guts in My Hand.


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '67 F100!
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 21:30:52 -0700


> The power
> steering conversion topic has been covered ad nauseum on here.
Dazzle me with your brilliance then.  Will a 70's 2wd power steering gear
work on a '67 F100?  And while your at it, will the 77 disc brake parts and
power booster easily convert to the '67 spindles?  My dad was given a really
clean '67 F100 and I'm not really up as far as interchangeablitity on the
2wd stuff.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
Happiness is the feel of warm deer guts in my hand.



------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 00:22:30 EDT
Subject: Re: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '67 F100!

The beloved 67!  At the risk of being riddled with bullets....I'll field this
one.  Yes on both scores.  You may be better off changing out the whole
i-beams though as I hear it's easier than trying to swap just the spindles.

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
htp://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee


In a message dated 9/16/2000 12:19:21 AM
Eastern Daylight Time, derrar internetcds.com writes:

> Dazzle me with your brilliance then.  Will a 70's 2wd power steering gear
>  work on a '67 F100?  And while your at it, will the 77 disc brake parts and
>  power booster easily convert to the '67 spindles?  My dad was given a
really
>  clean '67 F100 and I'm not really up as far as interchangeablitity on the

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 22:02:30 -0700
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman uswest.net>
Subject: Oil Pan Replacement

I finally carved out time to replace the oilpan on my daughter's '68
F100.

I ended up finding a pan locally (thanks CJ for the offer of a
replacement!), and had to drop the oil pump to gain enough clearance.
Took under 4 hours to complete lying in her driveway.

CJ, if you're out there, do you have a schedule yet for when you'll be
in Seattle?  I'll like to finalize a get together.  There's a fair
amount of interest.
--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net
Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
  (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)



------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Just a couple of questions
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 22:24:59 -0800


-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Hutson <tx4wheeler cs.com>

>
>> Hey guys and guyettes, first, the Bronco is alive again after the crash i
>> was in a few weeks ago.  Now to the questions. Winches for a 78 with 36's
>> does anyoue have any advise on brands and how many pounds I should get?
>> Most of my buddies run Warn 8274's but they are on jeeps, I love the
speed
>> of these things but I dont know if 8000 is enough.  I would appreciate
any
>> coments you all have.

Well here is my opinion.. I own a 78 Bronco, and would never consider
anything less then a 9500# winch AND a snatch block "enough"  Reality is the
bronco weighs in the range of 4500~5200. Add rolling resistance, added
resistance from mud, suction, snow pack, rock ledge, gravity and a 8000#
winch is really not enough.... Now add the fact that a on a Warn 8274 , the
cable on it's 4th layer (short pull to the anchor) your 8000# winch is only
capable of pulling 6600#.  A warn X8000 on the 4th layer is 6230, a HS9500I
on 4th layer is 7400#, a M12000 on 4th layer is 9770.  This in itself is
reason enough to go the Bigger is better route.

I am also on the bigbroncos.com list...... some 700 members,,, none of which
that I know of would admit a 8000# winch is enough either.

>Next question, Brakes... I have owned many 70's
>fords
>> 2 and 4 wheel drive and the brakes have always been scary at best, do ant
>of
>> you 78-79 Bronco owners have any recommendations as far as brakes?

Humm, suggestion?? other than plan ahead and leave lot's of room in front of
you?? lol..  I believe it's as simple as every last component in the system
being in perfect working order. The system is marginal at best, add bigger
tires and any one component or worse....several components not up to the
standards and you have brakes that simply do not work.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Re: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '67 F100!
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 23:50:41 -0700

I believe you can find your answers in the archives...

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 9:30 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '67 F100!


> Dazzle me with your brilliance then.  Will a 70's 2wd power steering gear
> work on a '67 F100?  And while your at it, will the 77 disc brake parts
and
> power booster easily convert to the '67 spindles?  My dad was given a
really
> clean '67 F100 and I'm not really up as far as interchangeablitity on the
> 2wd stuff.




------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 00:01:27 -0700
From: Keith Srb <herbie ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2

O.K. Gang this is the continuing saga of my 66 F-100 with a wounded 240 in line 6 cylinder

I ran a compress test.  Results, what compression.

Removed distributor - It's O.K.  Shear Pin is still in place and the rotor turns without any problems.

Has friend turn engine over while I watched the Distributor gear on the Camshaft.  It did not turn.

O.K. I need to remove the front cover and see what's up there.

I removed fan belt and fan.

Put truck in gear and set parking brake.

Put wrench on cap screw on the end of the crankshaft.

Turn wrench, engine turns, truck moves forward.

What do I need to do to remove the cap screw on the end of the crankshaft??
Drain coolant, remove radiator and use an impact gun on it?
Or is there something else I can do to remove the cap screw without taking the radiator out??
Will a 1/2" air impact gun remove this bolt??
If the timing gears did explode, how many valves got bent when the pistons hit them?
If the camshaft broke, how many valves got bent when the pistons hit them?


Thanks in advance!

Keith
with a wounded 240 in line 6.


------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 03:07:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Plastic interior door panels from LMC catalog

Garrett,
I still haven't figured out why you would want to modify '67 panels for your
'66.  They make door panels for your '66.  I believe you can get them through
Carolina Classics, Dennis Carpenter, or John's F-Fun Hundreds.

And for that metal panel at the bottom, its easily removable for a
reason...access to the inner workings of the door.  You get a panel from a
'67, or a custom one that covers the whole inside of the door, you're gonna
have to pull it off every time you need to work on those power windows or
power door locks.

-Mel
1965 F100 Custom Cab

------------------------------

From: "Dutch." <dutchman esatclear.ie>
Subject: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '66 F100!
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 11:48:19 +0100

It's not "list cop" mentality.It was just a casual observation.
You  people in the know - are there any common problems or quirks that I
should look out for or check on my newly acquired '66 F100 352 longbed 4x2.
Any tips to assist in the general day to day running of my truck (which I
intend keeping stock) would be appreciated.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 07:03:01 -0700
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Hydrogen power for anyone



G & J Boling wrote:

> Hydrogen power for anyone
>
> ==============================
> i lost the link for this by accident could someone resend it to me
> thanks
> gordon

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/Lab/1135/jorgone.htm

>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Tommy Boy" <toms bmi.net>
Subject: Re: All this non truck talk! Lets talk '66 F100!
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 04:38:25 -0700

Dutch,

I have a '66 F100, 352 3speed, longbed, camper special...
I find that by putting lots of gas in it on a daily basis it keeps
running...
hope this helps!

Tommy

Yep! I'm A Nut!

----- Original Message -----
From: Dutch. <dutchman esatclear.ie>
To: 61-79 Ford Truck List <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 3:48 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] All this non truck talk! Lets talk '66 F100!


It's not "list cop" mentality.It was just a casual observation.
You  people in the know - are there any common problems or quirks that I
should look out for or check on my newly acquired '66 F100 352 longbed 4x2.
Any tips to assist in the general day to day running of my truck (which I
intend keeping stock) would be appreciated.

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 07:43:13 -0400
From: bill poudrier <poudrier ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: 428CJ Balance question

I just acquired a 428CJ in pieces.  What I have not found yet
is the little weight that goes on the snout of the crank.  My
crank is numbered 1UB.  Do all 428CJ's use this balance.  I
do know that they are supposed to be externally balanced.
Thanks in advance for your help.

Bill



------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 07:41:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2

Keith:

   It is possible that there was damage caused to the cam if it was not
turning in synch with the crank.  Seems like I remember a warning in the shop
manual.  If you need to pull the cam you'll have to take the radiator out,
but first things first.

       The crank bolt should come out nicely with an impact wrench.  I
usually shock it loose by keeping the truck out of gear then using a large
breaker bar.  Keep hitting the breaker bar sharply with a wooden mallet. The
crank may turn a few times as you go, but just keep re-adjusting the wrench
and keep going you'll get there.  From there, you'll need a puller to get the
front crank pully off.  It's fairly straight-forward from there.  Good luck.

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

In a message dated 9/16/2000 2:53:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
herbie ford-trucks.com writes:

> What do I need to do to remove the cap screw on the end of the crankshaft??
>  Drain coolant, remove radiator and use an impact gun on it?
>  Or is there something else I can do to remove the cap screw without taking
> the radiator out??
>  Will a 1/2" air impact gun remove this bolt??
>  If the timing gears did explode, how many valves got bent when the pistons
> hit them?
>  If the camshaft broke, how many valves got bent when the pistons hit them?

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Calling all Inline 6 Guru's - Part 2
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 08:15:13 -0700

Keith, removing the radiator is a good move in any case since it almost
makes the job "Enjoyable" for the room it gives you for removing only 4
bolts.  I always take it out for front end work :-)

I always use my 1/2" impact for this bolt too, to loosen and also tighten.
As I said before my torque wrench......and impact wrench are tools at my
disposal but I'm still the boss so it's up to me to determine when to stop
tightening.  The crank is hard to hold while you torque or break a bolt
without damaging something.  When I really want to hold it I usually remove
the tranny inspection cover and find a hole in the flywheel to stick
something through and wedge it against the housing in some fashion.  Solid
flywheels don't give you much to work with.....

I have had limited success using a breaker bar/socket and hammer but be
aware that this treatment will eventually, if not immediately, lead to
damaging the breaker bar.  If you remove the pulleys you may be able to get
a box wrench on it which works much better IMHO but is more work.

Removing the radiator also gives you the opportunity to check the radiator ....


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