Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 13 Sep 2000 22:12:24 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 22:12:24 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #243
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Wed, 13 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 243

In This Issue:
OK Engine gurus...
Re: OK Engine gurus...
Re: OK Engine gurus...
Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Re: Call for help from 1967 Owners
Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Re: Saftey Tip of the Week
Re: 400 Dyno Results
Re: 400 Dyno Results
Re: Cheater Bars
Re: Heater not heating in Alaska
Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
460 buildups
Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Re: 460 buildups
460 buildups
Re: Heater not heating in Alaska
Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
ADMIN: FTE Picture Gallery Additions
Re: F-E's rule- Petersen's 4wd? & Ford PS boxes
Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Re: Intermittent Wipers
Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Re: 1967 Data Plate (Body Code)
Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Exhaust crossover pipe
Re: Free catalog!
Hydrogen power for anyone
Re: Cheater Bars

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: OK Engine gurus...
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 13:31:14 -0700

I'm helping my neighbor swap the engine in his pickup. Unfortunately I got
there a little late and one of his buddies had pulled the distributor
without making any marks on ANYTHING. I know how to install a distributor
but how the !#$% do I figure out where to set the thing initially? Anybody?

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"




------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: OK Engine gurus...
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 13:47:38 -0700

Turn the engine so the timing mark is on TDC.  Pull #1 spark plug if you
need to verify.  Set it (the dist) so the rotor points at where No. 1
cylinder is on the dist. cap. If it's a Duraspark, make a mark on the
adapter in magic marker - that's what I did on my van. Make sure the
distributor has about equal travel in each direction and that should be
close enough to get the thing started.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Beyer [mailto:bbeyer99 home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 1:31 PM
To: 61-79 List
Subject: [61-79-list] OK Engine gurus...


I'm helping my neighbor swap the engine in his pickup. Unfortunately I got
there a little late and one of his buddies had pulled the distributor
without making any marks on ANYTHING. I know how to install a distributor
but how the !#$% do I figure out where to set the thing initially? Anybody?

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"



=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: Matt Senn <msenn avistacom.net>
Subject: Re: OK Engine gurus...
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 13:47:29 -0700

i remember doing this on my friends j**p . . . crank it over until cyl 1 is
at TDC with both valves closed and turn the dizzy to the 1st terminal and
slide it in . . .

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Beyer [mailto:bbeyer99 home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 2:31 PM
To: 61-79 List
Subject: [61-79-list] OK Engine gurus...


I'm helping my neighbor swap the engine in his pickup. Unfortunately I got
there a little late and one of his buddies had pulled the distributor
without making any marks on ANYTHING. I know how to install a distributor
but how the !#$% do I figure out where to set the thing initially? Anybody?

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"



=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: daves8 juno.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 15:01:23 -0600
Subject: Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question

Put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to block off the
airflow when it gets really cold.  The expensive equivalent is either
louvers or the naugahyde thing you see covering the radiators on semis.

Just watch your temperature gauge to make sure you don't overheat, but I
guarantee that at -25 degrees that won't be much of a problem.  At
severely cold temperatures you don't even need the radiator to cool the
engine.  The engine loses so much heat right from the block to the cold
engine compartment that it never warms up and the thermostat never opens.
The cardboard will allow the engine and engine compartment to warm up,
which will open the thermostat and allow the coolant to flow through the
radiator and keep the solution well mixed.

When the outside temp gets back up to about zero, you can remove the
cardboard or just pull it up halfway and expose the lower part of the
radiator.

I assume you haven't been in Alaska too long.  This is a standard trick
in cold weather climates.

Dave Schoenberg
Arvada, Colorado  (where it OCCASIONALLY gets -25 outside.)


On Tue, 12 Sep 2000 22:58:00 -0800 Raymond Christensen
<rchristn ptialaska.net> writes:
............> The heater works just fine down to say zero to +10F degrees
keeping
> the cab plenty warm. However, get below zero degrees (remember, I'm in
> Fairbanks) and it is a different story. If it gets to -25 or lower
> the heater is blowing luke warm air and the engine temperature doesn't
> even get up to the "normal" range.

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Call for help from 1967 Owners
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 16:52:24 -0500

Thom,  it's very clearly a 234. The body configuration is a standard pickup.
Regular cab, 8' Styleside box, and a plain old 1/2 ton chassis.
Jason

From: <TBeeee aol.com>
> Jason:  Could that be a "284"  That would help and I would just be curious
> what the truck's body configuration is?
>
> Thom
> 1967 F-Series Registry
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee



------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 16:24:20 -0700

   How much of an effect does a crossover pipe have in a dual exhaust
system? Would it "wrong" to install a 2.5" dual exhaust without a crossover
pipe? A 69 F250 with C6 doesn't really have much room for a crossover, what
would you suggest?

   I'm considering a dual exhaust without crossover using 2.5" aluminized
pipe (mandrel bent) and high flow stainless steel mufflers with pipe exiting
behind rear tires at an angle. Is this a good configuration, or would you
suggest something different?

:: Drop kicks stock exhaust manifolds into trash can ::

:: Gently caresses Hooker competition headers ::


Michael
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/



------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Saftey Tip of the Week
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 17:22:02 -0500

 Well, if you remember my last few posts about bleeding brakes and fixing
transmissions, you've got most of the story. Last night I tried moving the
truck, without having either of them fixed, and was unable to stop in time.
Now, the left side of my garage door is shoved back about 18", the door
channel is bent, and the whole garage leans to the south. The truck got a
small dent just below the front left marker lamp, and a buckled hood. Turns
out that the hood has been treated with a healthy dose of Bondo, so that's
no big loss.
Tom, I live in southern Iowa. I've never had a problem getting out of a
garage, just getting in!:-)
Jason


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 18:37:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Scott Hall <sch8489 garnet.acns.fsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 400 Dyno Results

<snicker>

500+ lbs. isn't enough for you?  just looking in the past few weeks, I can
get 400 blocks dirt cheap, and the hall manifold is kinda hard to come by,
but fab-able.  some 427 blocks probably cost more than that whole setup.
and in a pantera, size was probably an issue.

scott

On Tue, 12 Sep 2000, G & J Boling wrote:

> with the money that fella spent on building that 400 he should have better
> spent it on a 427 and really made some power with it
> gordon
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: 400 Dyno Results
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 15:51:24 -0700

I think the 427 he was refering to was a stroked 351W.  If size is an issue
the Windsor block is SMALLER than the 400 block.  As fer cost the block it
self is dirt cheap--it's the machine work required to provide clearance for
the rods, the stroker crank, custom rods, custom pistons that's  what's
gonna eat your pocket book up.

I know of a couple people runnin stroked' 351W and they are awesome.  If you
want to see nice one check out Randy Thomas' 67 Bronco at
www.performanceunlimited.com  I think the dyno number on that were 678 HP
705 FT torque.

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Hall [mailto:sch8489 garnet.acns.fsu.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 3:37 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 400 Dyno Results


<snicker>

500+ lbs. isn't enough for you?  just looking in the past few weeks, I can
get 400 blocks dirt cheap, and the hall manifold is kinda hard to come by,
but fab-able.  some 427 blocks probably cost more than that whole setup.
and in a pantera, size was probably an issue.

scott

On Tue, 12 Sep 2000, G & J Boling wrote:

> with the money that fella spent on building that 400 he should have better
> spent it on a 427 and really made some power with it
> gordon
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 18:54:54 -0700

Yes, if you read any other manuals which deal specifically with bolt torque
specs in general you will discover that all torque specs are based on bolt
stretch at a certain torque with lighty oiled threads.  They discovered a
long time ago that it is much easier to dash a little oil on the threads in
virtually every case rather than try to get the threads, both internal and
external completely dry.  Dry, metal to metal has a very inconsistant
friction coefficient due to "Galling" where oiled threads have a very
predictable coefficient of friction because the oil prevents any galling so
stretch at a given torque can be easily calculated or tested for and
documented with consistent results.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> then quit.  I read in a service manual somewhere that torque specs were
based
> on clean dry threads and that lube would cause over-tightening.  Any
thoughts



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Heater not heating in Alaska
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 19:11:39 -0400

> >You bring up a good point, in the late 80's Ford started putting
> restrictors
> >in the heater cores to help with heating and prevent core bursts under
high
> >pressure conditions (
======================================================
ive just installed new cores in my mercury and my 79 f 100 and have not seen
these restrictors YET in either of them
gordon


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 19:05:22 -0700

Well.........some say it means nothing but the research I've done indicates
that it evens out the pulses and allows better evacuation which supposedly
leads to better filling with the new charge and less contamination of the
mixture with exhaust etc....

Bound to make a difference but how much or where in the rpm range??  Not
sure......I know I'm sorry I didn't do it on my 460 and plan to change that
situation as soon as I get my "Honey Do" list caught up :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

>     How much of an effect does a crossover pipe have in a dual exhaust
> system? Would it "wrong" to install a 2.5" dual exhaust without a
crossover
> pipe?


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: 460 buildups
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 19:20:47 -0400

does anyone know of a web page or source for 460 build ups into 514s or more
ive heard they make stroker kits and they can be made into over 800 cubes if
done right
thanks
gordon


------------------------------

From: Matt Senn <msenn avistacom.net>
Subject: Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 16:07:08 -0700

i've been considering adding the crossover pipe to my exhaust system, but
i'm curious as to where exactly it should be installed . . . i've heard that
it's supposed to be immediately behind the headers, is that true?

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary [mailto:gpeters3 lni.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 8:05 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250


Well.........some say it means nothing but the research I've done indicates
that it evens out the pulses and allows better evacuation which supposedly
leads to better filling with the new charge and less contamination of the
mixture with exhaust etc....

------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Re: 460 buildups
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 16:45:22 -0700

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.strokerkits.com/

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.flatlanderracing.com/strokerford.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://pages.tstar.net/~wturner/sk.html#bb

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 4:20 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 460 buildups


> does anyone know of a web page or source for 460 build ups into 514s or
more
> ive heard they make stroker kits and they can be made into over 800 cubes
if
> done right




------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject:  460 buildups
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 20:10:35 -0400

thanks Bill
thats exactly what i was looking for
i have a friend who is into the 460s with one in a 73 cougar turning low 12s
in the quarter mile but wants to build it bigger
i bet this will help him ALLOT
gordon


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 20:35:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater not heating in Alaska

In a message dated 9/13/00 12:26:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
A2JKEITH GCI.NET writes:


<< and it beats the heck outta scrapin ice and snow from
the windshield and windows,  >>

When I lived in Reno, I just put a Tshirt over the windsheild so I didnt have
to scrape the ice.  I only drove 2 miles to work, so I didnt mess with
scraping anything else.  Only time I had a problem was I was headin to work
before the defrost was even lukewarm, and I yawned, which completely frosted
the inside of the car.  I bounced off the curb twice trying to find a place
to pull over!!!!

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 20:41:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250

In a message dated 9/13/00 3:23:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
danger csolutions.net writes:


<< :: Gently caresses Hooker competition headers ::
>>

Someone really loves his truck......

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 20:53:33 -0700

The number that sticks in my head for full length headers is 36" from the
ports which is just about at the end of the collectors.  With a C-6 that
works out to just about  where the pan starts after the bell housing or
between the engine pan and bell housing inspection plate......for example
:-)

As close to the collectors as you can get it without making a mess :-)  The
crossover itself should be about 3/4 the diameter of the main exhaust pipes.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> i've been considering adding the crossover pipe to my exhaust system, but
> i'm curious as to where exactly it should be installed . . . i've heard


------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 17:01:40 -0800


-----Original Message-----
From: daves8 juno.com <daves8 juno.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Cc: rchristn ptialaska.net <rchristn ptialaska.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 1:19 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Snip

>Just watch your temperature gauge to make sure you don't overheat, but I
>guarantee that at -25 degrees that won't be much of a problem.  At
>severely cold temperatures you don't even need the radiator to cool the
>engine.  The engine loses so much heat right from the block to the cold
>engine compartment that it never warms up and the thermostat never opens.

Well, kind of.......... Everybody bases there opinion (which is what we
write in our posts) on there personal experiences.. so I wont say Your
wrong.. But I will say I have seen a few internal combustion motors over
heat in -25 deg temps, and colder. Including mine.  No air flow, ambient
temp in the -20~-28 deg, chugging through deep snow and my motor hit 230 deg
with the rad blocked completely with card board. Cut a 11 in hole in the
center and all was well. Another time in -20 deg temp I was making tracks
down the high way at speeds well above the state limit and had the card
board in place.. again started to over heat.  Have seen this same type deal
on three other vehicles over the four years I've lived in AK..  So it is not
just isolated to my vehicle.

This post is not ment as a flame...just food for thought.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 21:02:57 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: FTE Picture Gallery Additions

The following trucks have been added to the Ford
Truck Enthusiasts web site Picture Gallery:

1998 F-150 Lariat
1984 F-150 XLT
1979 F-150 4x4
1979 F-150
1976 F-100 Ranger
1976 F-100
1961 F-100
1953 F-100

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

From: "Rob Hutson" <tx4wheeler cs.com>
Subject: Re: F-E's rule- Petersen's 4wd? & Ford PS boxes
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 10:07:49 -0500

I agree with the problems noted with certain Ford power steering systems.  I
own a 76 F-250 4X4 with the power assist ram set-up.  I have rebuilt the
system several times and it always starts leaking again after about 6
months, this set-up is a huge piecs of crap.  I also have a 78 F-150 and a
78 Bronco.  I have broken the sector shaft in the gearbox on both of them,
the latest break was in a vehicle accident.  If you abuse these gear boxes
in a 4X4 you can expect for the sector shaft to break sooner or later.  The
problem with the design in that the sector shaft is just too long.

Robert Hutson (TX4Wheeler)
1978 Ford Bronco
2BigBroncos South Chapter
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/hutsonr

The only problem with '77 on Ford steering boxes is the long pitman shafts.
They have a tendency to break under severe use.  I've never had one break on
my own, but I've seen it happen a few times before.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD






------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 20:32:47 -0500

Speaking of which =P, I noticed my headers say Hooker Super Competition
Headers(for a 240/300), what's the difference between Super Comp and Comp?
----- Original Message -----
From: <JUMPINFORD aol.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 7:41 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250


> In a message dated 9/13/00 3:23:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> danger csolutions.net writes:
>
>
> << :: Gently caresses Hooker competition headers ::
>  >>
>
> Someone really loves his truck......
>
> Darrell & Tweety
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Chuck White" <chuckebabe jps.net>
Subject: Re: Intermittent Wipers
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 18:47:54 -0700

This question is for Whit:
you said you put intermittent wipers in your truck and I'd like to know how
you hooked up the wiring.  I grabbed a switch and black box out of a '73
T-Bird but there are more wires and they are of course different colors than
what is in my '71.  Short of trial and error it would be great if you can
remember just how the wires are connected.

Chuck
'71 F-250 390 C-6


------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 20:38:13 -0500

think a crossover pipe would make much difference on an I6 with dual headers
and true dual exhaust?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 9:05 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250


> Well.........some say it means nothing but the research I've done
indicates
> that it evens out the pulses and allows better evacuation which supposedly
> leads to better filling with the new charge and less contamination of the
> mixture with exhaust etc....
>
> Bound to make a difference but how much or where in the rpm range??  Not
> sure......I know I'm sorry I didn't do it on my 460 and plan to change
that
> situation as soon as I get my "Honey Do" list caught up :-)
>
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)
>
> >     How much of an effect does a crossover pipe have in a dual exhaust
> > system? Would it "wrong" to install a 2.5" dual exhaust without a
> crossover
> > pipe?
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: 1967 Data Plate (Body Code)
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 20:45:18 -0500

Meant over-the-wheel cab design =P
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2000 8:12 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 1967 Data Plate (Body Code)


> I have seen another one. Several months ago, an old F-?00(Big truck) was
for
> sale, it looked like one of them ones Roadway uses(The Orange and Blue
> trucks). It was an over-the-cab wheel design, so the cab tilted forward so
> that you can check engine stuff(like an Isuzu). I do remember it having a
> code of 91. Not sure what the others came on.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <TBeeee aol.com>
> To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 1:51 AM
> Subject: [61-79-list] 1967 Data Plate (Body Code)
>
>
> > Thanks for the response Eric.  I do have the decode part of the data.
I'm
> > curious what Ford actually stamped on the data plate for trucks
> manufactured
> > with one of these various body styles.  I have a hunch that they always
> > stamped 81 on the tag.  I don't profess to have seen them all, but
> > consistently I "see" an "81" on each and every tag.  Anybody have a data
> > plate that shows one of these other codes on it?
> >
> > Thom
> > 1967 F-Series Registry
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
> >
> > In a message dated 9/12/2000 6:52:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > bruce9 flash.net writes:
> >
> > > I can help you out there =)
> > >  81=Conventional Cab
> > >  84=Cowl and Chassis
> > >  85=Cown and Windshield
> > >  91=Tilt Cab
> > =============================================================
> > To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> > Please remove this footer when replying.
> >
> >
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 21:10:36 -0500


*caresses his Hedman headers* You're going to help me make more power, aren't you?

;-) Yes, I love my truck too.


---Garrett www.1966ford.com



 ----- Original Message -----
 From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 7:41 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Crossover Pipe for Dual Exhaust in 69 F250


 In a message dated 9/13/00 3:23:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
 danger csolutions.net writes:


 << :: Gently caresses Hooker competition headers ::
  >>

 Someone really loves his truck......

 Darrell & Tweety
 =============================================================
 To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
 Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Exhaust crossover pipe
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 21:18:17 -0500


OK, here is what I know about crossover pipes:

They make more low end torque, and also more HP. They do this by increasing the scavenging affect of the exhaust system.

I also know that they will make your exhaust system quieter.

I'm going to be installing one on my truck soon... stay tuned.


---Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 21:42:21 -0500
From: Ron Martens <martens flash.net>
Subject: Re: Free catalog!

Please send me one.  Ron Martens, 1529 Bradford Dr. Irving, Texas 75061-1901,
Thanks

Ron Miller wrote:

> We have just received the new updated 2000 issue of our 1953-72 Ford Pickup
> catalog back from the printer.  Again we are offering a copy free to the
> Ford list subscribers.  Email me off the list with your address and vehicle
> type and I'll send you one at no obligation.  If you have purchased from us
> in the last 2 years yours is already in the mail.  Thanks for your time and
> consideration.  Ron Miller  akraft shentel.net
> --
> Auto Krafters, Inc.
> Classic Ford Parts
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.autokrafters.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.focusperformance.com
> eBay seller ID akraft
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 22:46:47 EDT
Subject: Hydrogen power for anyone

I found this website, thought you might be interested.  I was curious, so I
started digging around and low and behold, the rumor is true.  With a lil
work, we can all drive around, filling up with tap water!  I had really been
considering Propane due to the cost of gas.  Well this system uses a lot of
the same stuff, but also tells you how to make the hydrogen generator.  Im
definately going to research this further, but from the way this sounds, it
wont be hard at all.  Think about it, 460's runnin 12:1 compression, with no
flooding, no pinging, good mileage, and FREE FUEL!!!  Id appreciate your
input on this folks, but it REALLY sounds interesting.  Heres the URL  http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://
www.inlex.org/water/water.html

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 23:08:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars

That's some good points there Gary. I'll admit, Ive never used anti-seize
onmy wheele studs. THen again, Ive never had a problem with em either. THe
incident I was refering to was after the Sears guy installed some new tires
for me on the ol (then allot newer) 79 Bronco. Turns out he had them torqued
to over 250 lbs, 70 lbs is whay my manual says if I remember right for the
wheele studs.

I  found out by trying to change the tire (after the the wife unit shredded
one on a rock) less than  2 weeks after the tires were installed. No
corrosion problems, plain ol too much torque! I wasnt real happy that he lost
his job, I just wanted him to learn how to do it right. It was the manager
that made that decision. Im guessing he had more evidence to backit up also.

My lesson learned, watch the guy's doing the work if at all possible, and
only give it to em if I cant do it myself!

George M in Fl.

ps, Ill look for  that anti-sieze. Seriously!

In a message dated 9/13/2000 8:37:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
gpeters3 lni.net writes:

<< Gentlemen, when installing lug nuts you should use Anti-Seize on the
threads.  I've been preaching this for years against entities as fearsome as
the Federal Government and now have been vindicated.  It is being taught in
Auto Mechanic Schools now.  Trust me, they absolutely will not fall off if
you lube them, the lube actually allows you to attain the actual benefit of
the torque you apply in stretching the lug to "Retain" the nut which is the
principle by which all nuts are retained.

Old timers will tell you "NEVER USE LUBE ON LUG NUTS, THEY WILL COME OFF AND
CAUSE A HORRIBLE ACCIDENT!!"  But it just aint so.  Most of them never
experience this themselves, they heard it somewhere, the same place the
other guy heard it......from someone else who didn't have a clue......
Ralph Nader probably had a great grandfather somewhere who stared the
myth.....

OTOH, if you don't install them correctly they certainly could come off,
lubed or not :-(

If they broke taking the nuts off then they were rusted on, it had nothing
to do with the impact installation unless he used a 3/4" and over tightened
them so that they were actually already cracked etc...  I like tight and in
all my excitement to get stuff tight I've broken bolts but never broken a
lug on a wheel except to get it off when rusted on.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, ....


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