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Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 14:29:40 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Wed, 13 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 242

In This Issue:
Saftey Tip of the Week
Re: Saftey Tip of the Week
Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
385 series motor mounts
Re: Cheater Bars
Re: 400 Dyno Results
Re: Run To The Rock
Re: Thermostat question
Electric Water Pumps
Heater not heating in Alaska
Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Re: power window kit
Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Re: Cheater Bars
Re: Saftey Tip of the Week
Re: Saftey Tip of the Week
Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Re: Heater not heating in Alaska
Re: Run To The Rock
Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Re: anyone have a website about how awesome 390's are?
Re: Heater not heating in Alaska

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.X. Schulz" <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
Subject: Saftey Tip of the Week
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 08:27:39 -0600

Jason!

You have to tell us the story!!!!!!

Don't leave us hanging!!!!!

CJ


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 10:30:34 -0400
From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Re: Saftey Tip of the Week


Ya gotta admire the man for admitting it. All you can do is laugh
when something like this happens. I remember once changing the brakes on the
wife's car and forgetting to set them. A tiny tap on the accelerator was all
it took to run the back end into a tree. Then, I hit a deer two weeks later,
destroying the front end.

Virgil

> Jason!
>
> You have to tell us the story!!!!!!
>
> Don't leave us hanging!!!!!
>
> CJ
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 07:35:15 -0700

Anyplace where the weather gets that cold it's a very good idea to cover the
front of the radiator to prevent airflow through it. If you live in
Fairbanks then I'm sure they sell covers for the grill of the truck there, I
can't remember what they're called off hand, but you can find them at the
parts stores. They're usually made of vinyl and they're not just there for
looks. In sub freezing weather your radiator will dissipate more than enough
heat without any airflow through it and the engine will run warmer and the
heater will function better.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Raymond Christensen" <rchristn ptialaska.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 11:58 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question


> In the 'October 4-Whl&Off-Rd' issue, the 'Winter Preparedness' article
> states, "Many people install a 180- or 160-degree thermostat to improve
> performance. However, in cold weather your radiator won't be able to
> retain enough heat to allow the engine to come up to temperature, let
> alone work the heater. . . ." I'm a bit flummoxed. Are they saying to
> put in a colder thermostat to get the engine temperature up? This might
> be obvious to you experts, but I haven't got a clue. Anyone know the
> recommended thermostat for my truck?
>
> I purchased my 79 F150 with 300 I-6 two years ago and have froze both
> Fairbanks winters.  I run a 195-degree thermostat as did the previous
> owner. I have had the system flushed, switched heater hoses (they were
> backwards in the beginning), and tested/changed the thermostat four
> times during my ownership.
>
> The heater works just fine down to say zero to +10F degrees keeping the
> cab plenty warm. However, get below zero degrees (remember, I'm in
> Fairbanks) and it is a different story. If it gets to -25 or lower the
> heater is blowing luke warm air and the engine temperature doesn't even
> get up to the "normal" range.




------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 385 series motor mounts
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 09:30:04 -0500


George P. writes:  >>Hi all, got a question! What is the difference between the motor mounts of
a 429 and those of a 460 engine? I've been punnishing 385 series engines for
the past 30 yr's and never realized there was a difference. G.E.P. (calif.)<<

I'm a little behind here, but here goes..

All 385 series that I'm aware of used the same blocks, so the difference is not the
429 & 460 thing, but possibl;y the difference in the vehicles they were in from the factory.
Different vehicles(Torino vs truck) probably take a different motor mount, or 2wd vs 4X4.


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 09:39:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Saftey Tip of the Week
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Jason!
>
> You have to tell us the story!!!!!!
>
> Don't leave us hanging!!!!!
>
> CJ

I agree, we need the rest of the story. Then, wheel chocks.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 10:55:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars

This is interesting.  I had been using anti-sieze religiously for years and
then quit.  I read in a service manual somewhere that torque specs were based
on clean dry threads and that lube would cause over-tightening.  Any thoughts
on that?

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4
'88 Bronco

> From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
>  Subject: Re: Cheater Bars
>
>  Gentlemen, when installing lug nuts you should use Anti-Seize on the
>  threads.  I've been preaching this for years against entities as fearsome
as
>  the Federal Government and now have been vindicated.  It is being taught in
>  Auto Mechanic Schools now.  Trust me, they absolutely will not fall off if
>  you lube them, the lube actually allows you to attain the actual benefit of
>  the torque you apply in stretching the lug to "Retain" the nut which is the
>  principle by which all nuts are retained.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 08:18:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 400 Dyno Results

As a proud owner of a 400 with 351C-4V heads I am glad
to see these numbers. I have never had mine Dyno'ed
and I don't think it would make those numbers. I would
expect about 380HP max and 400 ft-lb torque max. There
are some important differences between my engine and
the one reported here. First I have lower compression
(10.2:1) with flattop pistons and the lower
compression 351C-4V heads. Believe me I have enough
problems with the 92 Octane pump gas that is
available. I also have a flat hydralic lifter
cam(Crane 272/292). I may have more timing overlap
than a roller cam would have. If I take into account
the effects of the compression and no timing overlap
then these numbers make sense, but it will not run on
pump gas.

I would also like to get details on those pistons. Can
anyone supply that info?

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V

>Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 16:48:25 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Scott Hall <sch8489 garnet.acns.fsu.edu
>Subject: 400 Dyno Results

>here we are...



                RPM   HP   TQ
                2000  158  415
                2500  212  445
                3000  274  480
                3500  352  527
                4000  431  566
                4500  500  583
                5000  543  571
                5500  567  541
                6000  577  505
                6500  567  458

>Here are the engine parts:
>Ford 400 FMX block, bored .030", 4-bolt main
>Stock rods/crank
>Arias forged pistons
>351C 4V heads, ported, 2.19/1.76 SS valves, 11:1 CR
>Comp Pro Magnum 1.73 intake/1.8 exhaust roller
rockers
>Hall Pantera manifold
>PME intake spacers
>Weber 48 IDA's, 45mm chokes, Inglese
>needle/seats/circuits
>Comp 32-771-8 Magnum roller cam
>GTS Equal-length 2" headers




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:19:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Run To The Rock

I will be there too Mel!
Just me without my truck though. :-(

Do you have some kind of street address for finding it though.
Hope to see you there.

Rollie H. Hunt

------------------------------

From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:25:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Thermostat question

This sounds pretty familiar to me.  When I lived in Maine, it was common for
temps to drop to -20 and stay there for a week or so.  Temps hovered around 0
most of the winter.  I had a battery explode one morning when it was -40.

Anyway, I installed a mechanical temperature gauge so I could actually
monitor engine temp and see what was goin on.  When it's below zero out and
the thermostat lets cold radiator fluid into a 195* engine, you can bet
you'll see it on the gauge.  If your engine is warming up and you aren't
getting heat, then look to your heater core or water pump.  If the engine
isn't warming up then look to your thermostat.

I always put cardboard in front of the radiator when it got around 0 and
seemed likely to stay there for a while.  This was mostly just principle
though.

Every fall I backflushed and surged my heater core with a garden hose.  That
was after I had to drive 4 hours with no heat when it was -20 and my 2 year
old daughter was in the truck.

Two things to consider:
1.  I wrecked an engine one winter when the thermostat was stuck open and I
didn't have time to deal with it cause I had mid-terms.  I drove for about 10
days in -20 to -10 temps.

2.  I discovered in Maine that I basically didn't need my radiator cause
ambient temps stayed so low - even in the summer time.  I figured out my
radiator was shot when I overheated near Boston (it was 90* way down south
there).  I went to clean the radiator fins and they fell off everywhere I
touched them.  It's possible your entire cooling system is malfunctioning and
you just don't know it.

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4
'88 Bronco

> Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 22:58:00 -0800
>  From: Raymond Christensen <rchristn ptialaska.net>
(snip)
>  I purchased my 79 F150 with 300 I-6 two years ago and have froze both
>  Fairbanks winters.  I run a 195-degree thermostat as did the previous
>  owner. I have had the system flushed, switched heater hoses (they were
>  backwards in the beginning), and tested/changed the thermostat four
>  times during my ownership.
>
>  The heater works just fine down to say zero to +10F degrees keeping the
>  cab plenty warm. However, get below zero degrees (remember, I'm in
>  Fairbanks) and it is a different story. If it gets to -25 or lower the
>  heater is blowing luke warm air and the engine temperature doesn't even
>  get up to the "normal" range.

------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Electric Water Pumps
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:04:33 -0400

Hi Folks,
   Ran across an article at the www.fordmuscle.com site on electric water
pumps. They do an install and give the link for the US distributor. What I
liked is that for me an electric fan was a big amp draw and I'm still not
convinced it would do as well as my stainless flex fan. The electric water
pump though only draws 7.5 amps tops and frees up alot more HP. I wrote to
the manufacturer in Australia with questions and had a reply the same day.
You can mail him at dcfans daviescraig.com.au or go to the web site
www.daviescraig.com.au.
   Just thought I'd pass this on as food for thought and opinions. Oh yes,
and thank you for the replies on the Boggers, I'll have them mounted this
spring!!!

Regards,

John
'77 F150 460/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Heater not heating in Alaska
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:14:03 -0500


Jphn writes:  >>Part of the problem is outside air temperature. The colder it is outside,
the quicker heat from your engine is radiated directly to the atmosphere.
The entire point of your water based cooling system is to carry heat away
from around the combustion chamber so that you don't literally melt down the
engine. If that heat is radiating away on its own, your coolant will never
warm sufficiently to open the thermostat. If the engine isn't opening a 160
thermostat, it won't open a 205 either. You might want to invest in an
electric heater for your cab. That will keep you warm, but it won't prevent
the damage to your engine of running it cold all of the time. That, I don't
have a good solution to as it hardly ever gets that cold in my part of
Texas. It did get to -10 one time, but I stayed in the house that day. Our
big problem is too much heat. It rained yesterday...I think. Yes, it has
been that long.<<

I agree with John here.  I'd also like to add this::  Try restricting the bypass hose
(the one that bypasses the T'stat).  It is about the size of heater hose, but in drastic
climates such as in Alaska, it might help to take one end of that hose off and
insert a short piece of plastic pipe that would act as an orfice and restrict the
amount of fluid that is allowing the coolant to go into the radiator, thereby allowing
the engine to cool....


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 08:29:59 -0800

I just left Fairbanks (against my true desires) and currently live in
Anchorage.

What you seek is a winter front. On newer vehicles you can often get inserts
fro the grill made by companys like LUND. Or you can get a vinly "cover"
that goes across the grill. Or you can go to Alaska Tent & Tarp in either
city and have one made to fit your vehicle. But be forwarned most if not all
winter fronts use snaps to hold them in place,,, that means a bunch of new
holes in your truck.  I have been using a piece of cardboard in fron od the
radietor for about four years now. It fits in the recess between the upper
and lower tank and the core. I cut a hole in the center of the card board
that allows some air flow so I dont over heat at a stand still.  Start small
and increase till it's right for you.  I still have to remove it if using
the Bronco hard, wheeling, recovery , ect ect but is free, I paint it black
to it does not stand out, and requires no snaps/holes on the front of my
Bronco....which has enough challenges in the Body area...........


Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Beyer <bbeyer99 home.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question


>Anyplace where the weather gets that cold it's a very good idea to cover
the
>front of the radiator to prevent airflow through it. If you live in
>Fairbanks then I'm sure they sell covers for the grill of the truck there,
I
>can't remember what they're called off hand, but you can find them at the
>parts stores. They're usually made of vinyl and they're not just there for
>looks. In sub freezing weather your radiator will dissipate more than
enough
>heat without any airflow through it and the engine will run warmer and the
>heater will function better.
>
>"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Raymond Christensen" <rchristn ptialaska.net>
>To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 11:58 PM
>Subject: [61-79-list] October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
>
>
>> In the 'October 4-Whl&Off-Rd' issue, the 'Winter Preparedness' article
>> states, "Many people install a 180- or 160-degree thermostat to improve
>> performance. However, in cold weather your radiator won't be able to
>> retain enough heat to allow the engine to come up to temperature, let
>> alone work the heater. . . ." I'm a bit flummoxed. Are they saying to
>> put in a colder thermostat to get the engine temperature up? This might
>> be obvious to you experts, but I haven't got a clue. Anyone know the
>> recommended thermostat for my truck?
>>
>> I purchased my 79 F150 with 300 I-6 two years ago and have froze both
>> Fairbanks winters.  I run a 195-degree thermostat as did the previous
>> owner. I have had the system flushed, switched heater hoses (they were
>> backwards in the beginning), and tested/changed the thermostat four
>> times during my ownership.
>>
>> The heater works just fine down to say zero to +10F degrees keeping the
>> cab plenty warm. However, get below zero degrees (remember, I'm in
>> Fairbanks) and it is a different story. If it gets to -25 or lower the
>> heater is blowing luke warm air and the engine temperature doesn't even
>> get up to the "normal" range.
>
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 12:55:52 EDT
Subject: Re: power window kit

That kit looks real nice....a true bolt in at LMC.  My 1979 F-350 4x4 has the
power window motors from a 1987 Bronco.  I did the conversion about 10 years
ago, and they work prefect.  I did have to make an adapter plate...then weld
it to the modified stock tin mount.  If I were to do it again...I would buy
there kit.  I plan to do it to my 1979 F350 Crewcab soon.  Speaking of
Crewcabs....anybody have an extra cab for sale?  It should be within 20 hours
of driving from New Jersey.  Thanks!!!  Wayne Grabley  (Clifton, NJ)

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 10:34:23 -0700


>
> In the 'October 4-Whl&Off-Rd' issue, the 'Winter Preparedness' article
> states, "Many people install a 180- or 160-degree thermostat
> to improve
> performance. However, in cold weather your radiator won't be able to
> retain enough heat to allow the engine to come up to temperature, let
> alone work the heater. . . ." I'm a bit flummoxed. Are they saying to
> put in a colder thermostat to get the engine temperature up?
> This might
> be obvious to you experts, but I haven't got a clue. Anyone know the
> recommended thermostat for my truck?
>
> I purchased my 79 F150 with 300 I-6 two years ago and have froze both
> Fairbanks winters.  I run a 195-degree thermostat as did the previous
> owner. I have had the system flushed, switched heater hoses (they were
> backwards in the beginning), and tested/changed the thermostat four
> times during my ownership.
>
> The heater works just fine down to say zero to +10F degrees
> keeping the
> cab plenty warm. However, get below zero degrees (remember, I'm in
> Fairbanks) and it is a different story. If it gets to -25 or lower the
> heater is blowing luke warm air and the engine temperature
> doesn't even
> get up to the "normal" range.
>
> Ray
>

That much below zero F you may not be able to do much.  I think you could
get a 210 degree thermostat and try it.  The value on it is the temp that it
is supposed to open at.  The coolant circulates through the heater and block
with the thermostat closed.  You might also try blocking off the grille
opening with cardboard to reduce the cooling efficiency of the radiator.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Cheater Bars
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 10:34:24 -0700

<snip>
> If they broke taking the nuts off then they were rusted on,
> it had nothing
> to do with the impact installation unless he used a 3/4" and
> over tightened
> them so that they were actually already cracked etc...  I
> like tight and in
> all my excitement to get stuff tight I've broken bolts but
> never broken a
> lug on a wheel except to get it off when rusted on.
>
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)
>

<snip>

I have had that happen.  I watched the kid at the tire store go over to the
semi-truck bay and grab a two-handed 3/4 inch impact gun to remove and
install the lug nuts on an '82 D-50 I had.  Didn't break any studs but did
stretch the bolts to the point you could not finger tighten them any more.
Also took an 8 foot cheater bar on the lug wrench to remove the wheels when
I went to rotate them.  Glad I didn't have a flat. =:-(

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Saftey Tip of the Week
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 10:34:21 -0700


> Never work on a transmission and brakes at the same time.
> Especially on a downhill slope with a garage at the bottom.
> Now I get to practice my carpentry skills!:-)
> Jason Kendrick
>

Do you live in Beverly Ma?  My co-worker saw a garage that looked like
someone tried to back out of it without opening the door.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Saftey Tip of the Week
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 10:42:03 -0700

Probably wasn't Jason.  I bet it was this guy...
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bin/imageserver.x/000e88ab/ratbert86/irony
_bus.jpg
-----Original Message-----
From: Hogan, Tom [mailto:Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 10:34 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Saftey Tip of the Week

>Do you live in Beverly Ma?  My co-worker saw a garage that looked like
someone tried to back out of it without opening the door.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 10:53:34 -0700

I thought that was what they were called...

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 9:29 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question


>
> What you seek is a winter front.



------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 17:14:32 GMT
Subject: Re: Heater not heating in Alaska

>Try restricting the bypass hose
>(the one that bypasses the T'stat).  It is about the size of heater hose, but
in drastic
>climates such as in Alaska, it might help to take one end of that hose off
and
>insert a short piece of plastic pipe that would act as an orfice and restrict
the

Azie,

You bring up a good point, in the late 80's Ford started putting restrictors
in the heater cores to help with heating and prevent core bursts under high
pressure conditions (I think that was their excuses) ... anyway it restricts
the flow to the heater core, without it people were complaining of no heat,
turns out slowing the fluid down gave it time to dissipate its heat.  The part
should be dirt cheap from a salvage yard and just about every car from 87 on
had one (even my sister's 3.8L Cougar had one).

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 15:07:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Run To The Rock

In a message dated 9/13/00 11:20:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time, SevnD2 aol.com
writes:

<< Do you have some kind of street address for finding it though. >>

Street Address?  Hmm,  good question.
Its on the main road in Chimney Rock, at the community center, on Lake Lure.
You can't miss it.  Just look for all the Ford trucks.  :o)


~Mel
Marietta, GA
1965 F100 Custom Cab
1989 Bronco XLT
ICQ#84544993
Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line...
Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It.

------------------------------

From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:04:10 -0800


-----Original Message-----
From: Erik Marquez <bronco78 alaska.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 8:31 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question


>I just left Fairbanks (against my true desires) and currently live in
>Anchorage.
>
>What you seek is a winter front. On newer vehicles you can often get
inserts
>fro the grill made by companys like LUND. Or you can get a vinly "cover"
>that goes across the grill. Or you can go to Alaska Tent & Tarp in either
>city and have one made to fit your vehicle. But be forwarned most if not
all
>winter fronts use snaps to hold them in place,,, that means a bunch of new
>holes in your truck.  I have been using a piece of cardboard in fron od the
>radietor for about four years now. It fits in the recess between the upper
>and lower tank and the core. I cut a hole in the center of the card board
>that allows some air flow so I dont over heat at a stand still.  Start
small
>and increase till it's right for you.  I still have to remove it if using
>the Bronco hard, wheeling, recovery , ect ect but is free, I paint it black
>to it does not stand out, and requires no snaps/holes on the front of my
>Bronco....which has enough challenges in the Body area...........
>
>
>Erik Marquez
>bronco78 alaska.com
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
>Home of the BB decal
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Beyer <bbeyer99 home.com>
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 6:34 AM
>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
>
>
>>Anyplace where the weather gets that cold it's a very good idea to cover
>the
>>front of the radiator to prevent airflow through it. If you live in
>>Fairbanks then I'm sure they sell covers for the grill of the truck there,
>I
>>can't remember what they're called off hand, but you can find them at the
>>parts stores. They're usually made of vinyl and they're not just there for
>>looks. In sub freezing weather your radiator will dissipate more than
>enough
>>heat without any airflow through it and the engine will run warmer and the
>>heater will function better.
>>
>>"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Raymond Christensen" <rchristn ptialaska.net>
>>To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 11:58 PM
>>Subject: [61-79-list] October 4-Whl&Off-Rd, Thermostat question
>>
>>
>>> In the 'October 4-Whl&Off-Rd' issue, the 'Winter Preparedness' article
>>> states, "Many people install a 180- or 160-degree thermostat to improve
>>> performance. However, in cold weather your radiator won't be able to
>>> retain enough heat to allow the engine to come up to temperature, let
>>> alone work the heater. . . ." I'm a bit flummoxed. Are they saying to
>>> put in a colder thermostat to get the engine temperature up? This might
>>> be obvious to you experts, but I haven't got a clue. Anyone know the
>>> recommended thermostat for my truck?
>>>
>>> I purchased my 79 F150 with 300 I-6 two years ago and have froze both
>>> Fairbanks winters.  I run a 195-degree thermostat as did the previous
>>> owner. I have had the system flushed, switched heater hoses (they were
>>> backwards in the beginning), and tested/changed the thermostat four
>>> times during my ownership.
>>>
>>> The heater works just fine down to say zero to +10F degrees keeping the
>>> cab plenty warm. However, get below zero degrees (remember, I'm in
>>> Fairbanks) and it is a different story. If it gets to -25 or lower the
>>> heater is blowing luke warm air and the engine temperature doesn't even
>>> get up to the "normal" range.


Last Winter I was driving a little ford courier (I Live in Anchorage) and I
couldnt get the thing heated up as well but upon further inspection I found
out that the doggone thing had a triple core radiator which basically
defeats any heating type purpose that you may have. I have always use the
cardboard as well, however you can go to your local Napa store and if they
dont have it in stock they can order it in for you or there also may be a
Six Robbles in fairbanks which carries them as well. Best of luck and keep
yer toes warm.
Keith
71 F250 4x4
81 Ford Courier


------------------------------

From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: anyone have a website about how awesome 390's are?
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:09:42 -0800

I goofed Up the addy is www.odoa.org  that should be the right one.
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith <A2JKEITH gci.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 10:29 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: anyone have a website about how awesome 390's are?


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Senn <msenn avistacom.net>
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Date: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 7:34 AM
>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: anyone have a website about how awesome 390's
are?
>
>
>>well, i don't know if mine is pushing as much HP as it could, but it sure
>>looks good . . . http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.chaoticdelusions.com
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Tim and Pam Allgire [mailto:tim-pam williams-net.com]
>>Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:21 AM
>>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: anyone have a website about how awesome 390's
>>are?
>>
>>
>>just have that Chevy guy get in here & we will all tell him how AWESOME
>they
>>are  !!!!   HE-HE- HE    !!!!
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Garrett Nelson <garrettnelson writeme.com>
>>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>>Date: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 12:53 AM
>>Subject: [61-79-list] anyone have a website about how awesome 390's are?
>>
>
>CHECK OUT WWW.ODOA.COM
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: Heater not heating in Alaska
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:18:16 -0800




>>Try restricting the bypass hose
>>(the one that bypasses the T'stat).  It is about the size of heater hose,
but
>in drastic
>>climates such as in Alaska, it might help to take one end of that hose off
>and
>>insert a short piece of plastic pipe that would act as an orfice and
restrict
>the
>
>Azie,
>
>You bring up a good point, in the late 80's Ford started putting
restrictors
>in the heater cores to help with heating and prevent core bursts under high
>pressure conditions (I think that was their excuses) ... anyway it
restricts
>the flow to the heater core, without it people were complaining of no heat,
>turns out slowing the fluid down gave it time to dissipate its heat.  The
part
>should be dirt cheap from a salvage yard and just about every car from 87
on
>had one (even my sister's 3.8L Cougar had one).
>
>Just my $.02
>wish
>
>96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
>73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
>Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>http://www.ford-trucks.com

Also another thing that I have learned, I may not sound like a true "Truck
man" but here in Alaska when it starts gettin cold at night, I take a little
portable heater and plug it in inside my truck, so when I come out in the
morning I just jump in real fast after unplugging the heater, And turning
the truck on and letting it warm up with no heater on, seems to keep me nice ....


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