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Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 22:41:32 -0400 (EDT)
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 11 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 238

In This Issue:
bogger howl
Re: intermittent wipers in a 66
Re: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Re: '79 CrewCab On Road
Fw: Re: oil filters
Bellhousings
Re: oil filters
Re: oil filters
Re: Bleeding brakes and CB's
Re: electrical system woes in 79 bronco
61 flareside questions
Re: Locked up engine (Leverage)
5.0L
Re: 5.0L
Re: 5.0L
Re: cheater bars
Re: Locked up engine (Leverage)
Update: Tightening bearings, hubs & shocks
Re: cheater bars
Steering Column Click
Re: 5.0L
71 steering column
Re: Trucks for sale

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:23:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: James Oxley <joxenburger yahoo.com>
Subject: bogger howl

John Webster wrote:
>
> Wayne,
>     One question regarding your Boggers. Do you get
a decent howl from them?
> I have to replace my tires in the spring and I'm
looking at National Tires
> package of 33"X14" Boggers on the Black Street Bead
lock rims. Believe it or
> not my wife will not let me put any tire on unless
it howls when driving!!!
> I'm not arguing, just thankful, I'll see how she
feels when the headers from
> Stan get bolted on shortly with the 2 chamber
Flowmasters under the cab.
> Nothing like a cacophony of mechanical noise to
start your day.
>

Mine howl good, but not really around town. Below 10
MPH they feel like sqaure wheels :-). At 55 MPH, it
sounds like a small cesna about to take off.

                                OX

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56,
D60/detroit/4.56, 44 boggers, 9" lift
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10,
D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5 SX's, 4"lift
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

--- Gary <gpeters3 lni.net> wrote:
> What I've noticed is that with ported you have
> immediate advance from
> basically initial timing which is necessary for
> newer engines because they
> are "lean burn" engines and so have leaner mixtures
> in the transition stage.
> With ported vac the timing is advanced to what ever
> the vac would hold it to
> at that throttle opening where with manifold vac you
> always have a
> retardation effect at initial opening from a much
> higher advance which works
> well for carbed engines with richer accellerator
> pump settings etc..  Hot
> rod engines with big carbs for instance will
> probably work better with
> manifold vac.
>
> I have hooked vac gauges to both ports and watched
> the vac as I opened the
> throttle and the ported vac never reaches the same
> total vac that the
> manifold does and actually stays lower throughout
> the range and at idle you
> have zero as was stated.  I suspect that this was
> necessary to prevent
> pinging in lean burn engines.  With manfold vac you
> have to run lower
> initial advance on these engines to prevent pinging
> on take off.  My Holley
> on my bronco does not have this port so I had to
> retard the timing from
> where I really wanted it to prevent holing my
> pistons when running manifold
> vac.  The OEM spread bore on my 70 vintage 460 uses
> manifold vac and is very
> happy with it.  That carb runs very rich but there
> is no way to tune it that
> I know of.  Can't wait to get the Offy manifold and
> Rochester combo on it
> :-)
>
> With manifold vac you idle at about 30 degrees
> advance and with ported at
> about 10 degrees depending on what vac you have
> installed.   When you gently
> open the throttle with manifold the timing drops
> back somewhat to about 20
> or even less where with the ported it advances to
> about the same point.
> Obviously some engines work better one way than the
> other and most stock
> setups will probably do better with ported.
>
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)
>
> > Yes, It is. This is so the engine gets timing
> advance to prevent the
> engine
> > from bogging or stumbling (whichever term you
> like) while the carburetor
> is
> > in transition from idle to part throttle. Tried
> both ways for the
>
>
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>
>
>
>


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------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: intermittent wipers in a 66
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:30:39 -0500


I have pulled the wipers off and put them back on a few times. After using them for a while the start hitting the bottom again.

Thanks for the advice though... time to go junkyard shopping again!

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: wish
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:02 AM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: intermittent wipers in a 66




 >
 >What do I need to do to get intermittent wipers in my 66 F100?

 I'm not sure on this, but for the 73-79 its pretty easy (see the how to: on
 the FTE site) ... check the plugs, or maybe someone knows if they're the same
 or not ?  Otherwise there's always aftermarket controllers and such that you
 could probably cleverly mount :)

 > Right now the wipers don't work very good... lots of slop in >the mechanism
 and the wipers don't stop at the bottom when you turn off the switch...

 Not sure about the slop (mine has that too, makes a neat clunk now), but the
 not stopping at the bottom is a bad wire connection, on mine it was a dark colored
 wire, but just check the connections in there to be sure they're all good, fixed
 that and it stops at the bottom every time now.

 >they also come down too far and slap into the window seal with >an annoying
 noise.
 >

 Are you sure they're hitting the window seal ?  if so, then you can pull the
 arm off of the pivot by releasing the spring pressure and easing it off, then
 rotate the arm up a notch or two so it clears the window seals and such ...
 might want to practice on a salvage yard vehicle for pulling and placing the
 wipers so you get the hang of it without scratching your own truck :)

 Just my $.02
 wish

 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
 73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

 Ford Truck Enthusiasts
 http://www.ford-trucks.com


------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:37:19 -0500


Nice of you to share that with us.
Nice of you to share that with us.
Nice of you to share that with us.
Nice of you to share that with us.
Nice of you to share that with us.
Nice of you to share that with us.
Nice of you to share that with us.
Nice of you to share that with us.
Nice of you to share that with us.
Nice of you to share that with us.
Nice of you to share that with us.
Nice of you to share that with us.

;-)

---Garrett www.1966ford.com





----- Original Message -----
 From: Gary Perry
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 11:41 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] 61 Mercury short box unibody



 Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                            "G"



------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 12:51:24 EDT
Subject: Re: '79 CrewCab On Road

The boggers sound like a B17 Plane on the highway at 65mph.  My friends know
when I am coming...Thats for sure!!  I replace my Boggers every year because
I do alot of driving.  They are a VERY soft compound tire...like a "Pink
Pearl" eraser, wear very fast.  I also have a Flowmaster on my Bronco (1979
Bronco, 351M, Stock Exhaust Manifolds), and boy is there a drone.  Long trips
give me a headache, but I have to drive it because it is my everyday truck.
From now on, I will take the Crewcab on long trips.  Anyway.....Go to
National Tire...Thats where I go every year for tires & rims.  They are
pretty good on prices too.  Thanks Again!!!  Wayne Grabley

------------------------------

From: daves8 juno.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:27:13 -0600
Subject: Fw: Re: oil filters

OK, one more time....  :-)

I ran across some interesting stuff about oil filters awhile back.  Take
a look at these 2 pages.

Dave Schoenberg
Arvada, Colorado

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html


On Sun, 3 Sep 2000 12:37:06 -0400 "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
writes:
> i saw recently where there was a FL 300 i think it was for HI PO
> applications and fr police use i was wondering if this was a better
> filter to use and if it was a smaller micron inside of it
> does anyone know???
> the cleaner the oil the longer the engine will last to

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 12:54:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Re: oil filters
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> OK, one more time....  :-)
>
> I ran across some interesting stuff about oil filters awhile back.  Take
> a look at these 2 pages.
>
> Dave Schoenberg
> Arvada, Colorado
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html

This appears to be the information to which I referred in an earlier post.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Brandon Neighbors" <mrb910 hotmail.com>
Subject: Bellhousings
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 20:36:24 GMT

FTE,

Does anyone happen to know the bellhousing index on a 390?  I was not even
familiar with the term index until I started looking at the Advance Adapters
page.  Their NV4500 adapter "fits any standard Ford bellhousing 4.848"
index."  I don't even know what the index on a bellhousing is.  Any info
would be appreciated.

Very respectfully,

Brandon Neighbors
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.

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------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: oil filters
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 15:51:45 -0500


----- Original Message -----
From: Hogan, Tom <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 10:24 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: oil filters


>
>
> >
> > > Ford filters are made to puralator type design specs for
> > good reason, they
> > > are the best so Motorcraft or Puralator are good choices.
> >
> > There was a web site up about a year ago that had all sorts
> > of oil filter
> > information. It told which filters were made by whom, had
> > pictures of them
> > cut open, etc. It had some good information, but it was
> > biased because the
> > owner had a bone to pick. Anyone remember this site? It was about five
> > computers ago and I can't find the url.
> >
> > -- John
>
> I think (fram) one of the companies (fram) made him take the (fram) site
> down. Fram.
>
> Tom H.
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: oil filters
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 15:54:20 -0500

John, here's the url for the page you were asking about.
Jason

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.nbci.com/_XMCM/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html

>
> There was a web site up about a year ago that had all sorts of oil filter
> information. It told which filters were made by whom, had pictures of them
> cut open, etc. It had some good information, but it was biased because the
> owner had a bone to pick. Anyone remember this site? It was about five
> computers ago and I can't find the url.
>
> -- John



------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes and CB's
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 15:56:09 -0500

Marty, thanks for the reply. I'll have to look at mine more closely. I
didn't see one the first time.
Jason
----- Original Message -----
From: MARTY COLMAN
Jason, I used to have a brake controller like you described.  It had a
brake
> line going into the back of it.  Right next to the brake line was a
bleeder
> valve (on mine anyways), looked just like one on the caliper.  I just held
> the pedal and reached under there and bled it.
>
> Just a thought.
>
> Marty



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 17:29:57 -0400
From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: electrical system woes in 79 bronco

>Check the bulb sockets first.  These are notorious for causing problems.  I
>had the same problem when I revived my '77 E150 from a 4+ year slumber.  Get
>4 new 1157 bulbs (don't assume any on the truck are good) and install them
>and see if you got anything.  If not, take your test light or voltmeter and
>see if you have power to the INSIDE of the sockets.  My problem was I was
>getting 12V into the socket, but only about 3v out.  Replacement sockets are
>available at most parts stores for 5-6 bucks each...

Nothing beats a virgin, un-cut tail light harness. Bad grounds, patched
wires with bad connections and what not make it a real pain to figure out
why the lights won't work. Also, the connections in the sockets often
becoming corroding - a Dremel with a fine wire brush or something sharp and
pointy (like the end of the electrical tester you must have!) are perfect
for getting down to a good shiny connection.

Also, try disconnecting the various wiring harness that lead to the back of
the truck - there's one plug at the firewall under the hood and one back by
the gas tank. Check what power you're getting back there. You can also
usually get the electrical tester in the steering column harness connector
under the dash - you can check to see if you're getting power out of the
turn signal switch.


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 17:01:25 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: 61 flareside questions

Hi
did all Ford Flaresides(6ft box) in 61 Have the tire mounted on the side
over the
wheel well(it ruins the wheel well) in my eyes becuase it has the indent
for the tire...
Or were there some out there with the spare under the bed??
Joe


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Locked up engine (Leverage)
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 18:16:48 -0400

Yeah its pretty amazing, torque is force*length of lever arm ... if you can
> double that length and maintain the same force, you've doubled the applied
torque
> ... then the question is, can the socket/wrench handle it ?
wish
=============================================================
i once taught a lady that weighed LESS THAN 100 lbs how to chain coils she
wasnt big enough to really put a good pull on a chain SO we went and got her
a 7 ft piece of black iron pipe to pull the chain binders down with GUESS
WHAT she BROKE a chain with it
goes to show ya anyone with enough leverage can do allot
i was once told you could move a frieght train with a washing machine motor
IF you had the right gears[leverage]
SO TRUE
GORDON


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 18:36:15 -0500
From: Gary Rubendall <gsruben infocom.com>
Subject: 5.0L


As usual, I need some wisdom from those that are smarter than I am
(which includes everyone on this list).

I just put a 5.0 from a 1990 vehicle in my '64 F100. It idles and runs
great. When I go to take off (three speed on the column) I gets shakes
and bumps like you wouldn't believe. The flywheel from this engine was
for an automatic so I couldn't use it. Am I going to have to find a
different flywheel and if so what kind do I look for? (5.0 stick shift
from a car, truck????). The 302 that was in the truck was so worn out
there were no bearing surfaces left. Can I say "No oil pressure".

I figured someone here would know. Thanks for the help.
Gary Rubendall
gsruben infocom.com

------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: 5.0L
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 17:00:54 -0700

There are 2 different imbalances on the 302's.  The early ones had a 28 oz
imbalance.  Somewhere around 82-83 the imbalance was changed to 50 oz.  I
used a flywheel from an 88 F150 5.0 and a clutch from an '86 F150 (11"
clutch).  If you used your old accessories (alternator, p/s, etc) you will
also need to get a balancer to match the imbalance.  I got mine from Damper
Dudes in Anderson, CA.  I don't have their new number, but you can get it
from information.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Rubendall" <gsruben infocom.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 4:36 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 5.0L


>
> As usual, I need some wisdom from those that are smarter than I am
> (which includes everyone on this list).
>
> I just put a 5.0 from a 1990 vehicle in my '64 F100. It idles and runs
> great. When I go to take off (three speed on the column) I gets shakes
> and bumps like you wouldn't believe. The flywheel from this engine was
> for an automatic so I couldn't use it. Am I going to have to find a
> different flywheel and if so what kind do I look for? (5.0 stick shift
> from a car, truck????). The 302 that was in the truck was so worn out
> there were no bearing surfaces left. Can I say "No oil pressure".
>
> I figured someone here would know. Thanks for the help.
> Gary Rubendall
> gsruben infocom.com
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: 5.0L
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 20:15:22 -0500

 Basically what Jason D. is saying is that you need to use a late-model
flywheel and balancer with your late-model engine. Early and late model
parts will interchange-up to a point. And if those are your old peices on
that engine, you've found the point of non-compatibility. Along with this,
you may have to run the serpentine belt accessory setup with your '90 5.0
becuase I think?? Ford switched from a three bolt to a four bolt pulley
pattern on their balancers. You may be able to buy a set of aftermarket
pulleys with the late model bolt pattern that will let you run your v-belt
system. I think I read this info somewhere, but compare your late model
parts with your old ones to verify what I think is right.
Jason Kendrick


------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 21:34:22 EDT
Subject: Re: cheater bars

In a message dated 9/11/2000 9:35:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:

<< > I have a 12" breaker bar in my toolbox, and this is usually enough to
free
> most bolts in the junkyard. I was really struggling with some wheel lug
> nuts, though, when I found a piece of 4' steel tubing in the back of the
> van. I slipped this over the handle of my wrench, and used it for increased
> leverage. Wow, the difference is amazing when you have a 4' handle. As long
> as you can fit it in the space provided, it's better to have a longer
> handle, and I didn't realize how much better until I actually tried it
> myself.

Twist and Shout? Twist off the bolt and shout every obscenity known to man?
I've broken a few bolts off with cheater bars. I still use one from time to
time. Just don't get carried away with them.
 >>

Just dont use one (4' anyway) with a ratchet drive wrench. I totally
shattered teh head of my good 3/8" ratchet one day. Parts of it flew over 80'.

George M in Fl.

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 21:52:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Locked up engine (Leverage)

In a message dated 9/11/2000 6:56:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
flash1 alltel.net writes:

<< i once taught a lady that weighed LESS THAN 100 lbs how to chain coils she
wasnt big enough to really put a good pull on a chain SO we went and got her
a 7 ft piece of black iron pipe to pull the chain binders down with GUESS
WHAT she BROKE a chain with it
goes to show ya anyone with enough leverage can do allot
i was once told you could move a frieght train with a washing machine motor
IF you had the right gears[leverage]
SO TRUE
GORDON
 >>
Kinda like that old Ford  Truck comercial where an F100's pulling a frieght
train (or at least a couple of box cars)! It's all in the ratio!

George M in Fl.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 23:01:01 -0400
From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Update: Tightening bearings, hubs & shocks

First of all, thanks for all the insight into the dismantling of a locking
hub. You were all right - closer examination of the hub (with a better
light in my hand) revealed the elusive snap ring! It was actually a little
hard to spot until you had your nose right in there. Also, you definitely
need the 4x4 locknut removal tool. Whether you buy it or borrow it, it is
essential to have so that you can properly torque down the bearing nut and
the locknut. A summary of my evening:

I found something that works better than anti-seize compound: the mixture
of grease, oil, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, etc. that
combines together with the dirt on your engine forming what is known as
"black sludge". The bottom bolt of the passenger shock absorber was cover
in it - it came off without even having to put a second wrench on the back
of the bolt. The driver's side, which was sludge-free and rusty wasted an
hour of my time as I tried to get the nut off. I really need an impact
wrench! Finally giving up on the worn, rusty threads of the bolt, I went
for the big guns and hauled out the recipricating saw. I think I like that
thing even better than a grinder! It cut through that bolt like a hot knife
through butter! Made quick work of the rusty nuts at the top of the shocks
as well.

I did not originally want to cut that bolt as I assumed it was a Grade 8
bolt that the local chain store that's open in the evening would most like
not have it. Turns out the bolt was only Grade 5 and they actually had that
grade in the exact same bolts! While there, I stopped at the service
department and got what I hoped was the proper tool for the bearing nut -
it was. Back home I quickly slapped the shocks into place with the new
bolts and admired my handywork. It's just not worth it to buy cheap shocks
- the new Monroe Gas Magnum's that I bought ($50 each) were about 1-1/2
times the width of the old ones. I was tempted to get a set of Rancho
RS9000's but they were $120 CDN each and would take 7-10 days to get in. A
little pricey and a little too long to wait.

Moving on to the hub, a bright bulb in the trouble light helped me quickly
find the snap ring we had missed on Saturday. The whole thing came out
quite easily and I moved on to the bearings. There were some metal filings
in there - not sure if the previous owner shaved some metal off the threads
on the spindle or what. The lock nut tool was kind of awkward to use - it
doesn't stay in the notches in the nuts very well so you have to hold it
firmly in place with one hand while turning the ratchet with the other. The
nuts came off easily and the bearings looked in OK shape so I slipped
everything back together. I torqued everything down to the specified
amounts, remembered to back off the bearing nut a quarter turn and put the
hub back together. Put my tires back on, dropped it off the jack stands and
went for a test drive.

VERDICT: The truck seems to handle better with the new shocks and there
seems to be one less clunk when I hit a bump. There's a noticeable decrease
in the amount of vibration and rumble in the truck when braking. The tire
was did not wobble like it had before - the bearing nut was definitely
loose! The truck still pulls a little bit to the passenger side but doesn't
seem to pull quite as much. I'm going to check all my tire pressures but
the truck probably just needs an alignment.

WORDS OF WISDOM:
1. "Recipricating saw" - they kick butt with a good metal cutting blade!
2. "Torque Wrench" - whoever put that bearing nut on didn't torque it down
properly!
3. "Spare Truck" - it's much easier when you have a second vehicle to drive
to the parts store while the front end of one is torn apart. Use that
excuse with your SO when you tell her why you need to buy another one!
4. "Proper Tools" - sure I probably could have figured out some way to get
the bearing nut off without the tool but why waste all that time.

THINGS I'M NOT SURE ABOUT:
Should I be worried about those metal filings? How much grease do you pack
into a hub when you're repacking it?


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 23:04:46 -0400
From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: cheater bars

>Just dont use one (4' anyway) with a ratchet drive wrench. I totally
>shattered teh head of my good 3/8" ratchet one day. Parts of it flew over 80'.
>
>George M in Fl.

That's why you make sure to buy ratchets with a lifetime warranty...than
you can act all innocent to the salesclerk at Sears when they wonder how
you could shatter a 1/2" ratchet. :-)


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Steering Column Click
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 23:26:03 -0400

Been trying to isolate the source of a loud click in the steering of my '77
F-150 4x4.  It makes a click or snap when reversing directions with the
wheel, and on every rotation.  It only takes very light turning force to
make it click.  I pulled the wheel and went down to the little bearing in
the rubber housing- all seemed well with this.

I noticed tonight that at the bottom end of the column, just above that
first u-joint, some kinda plastic cap that's loose and moving back and forth
with the clicking sound.  My Haynes does not give an exploded view of this
system- can anyone enlighten me on what's in there that can be loose or make
noise, and how to access it for repair?

Bob, Covington, VA
robertan cfw.com


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: 5.0L
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 20:40:06 -0700

> ?? Ford switched from a three bolt to a four bolt pulley
> pattern on their balancers. You may be able to buy a set of aftermarket
> pulleys with the late model bolt pattern that will let you run your v-belt
> system.
Yes, this is where Damper Dudes comes into play.  They offer balancers with
the early 3 bolt pattern and with the late model imbalance.  I paid $67 for
mine.  They told me that it is a early 3 bolt hub, with the late model
weight ring on it, with new rubber injected and a speedi sleeve over the
crank seal surface.  Totally rebuilt.  They said some applications are very
popular and that they would need your old damper to rebuild. Very good
quality for the money.  IMO, using the complete serp belt system is un
needed unless you have power steering, AC etc.  I have a conglomeration of
front accessory parts that I was happy with and worked good.  100 amp
alternator from a Lincoln, Saginaw P/S pump and soon to have a York
compressor for air tool and tire repair duty.
I found Damper Dudes phone # in my desk this evening.
Damper Dudes:  (530)365-2144

Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD



------------------------------

From: Mercpuman aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 23:34:27 EDT
Subject: 71 steering column

Just tore my 71 column apart to try to find out why shifter is so loose.
Found two studs with nuts in the piece with the turn signal cam, but nothing
held in place by them. Anybody know what they're for? I suspect this may be
the source of my problem.

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Trucks for sale
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 23:47:29 -0400

you are correct--it is Exit 2  on the toll road.  the steel mill you are
referring to is in Delta.  Right there at  exit 2 is a brass mill(Chase
Brass & Copper Company) that is where  I work.
Tim Allgire
-----Original Message-----
From: G & J Boling <flash1 alltel.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, September 10, 2000 11:35 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Trucks for sale


>
>i,m in Ashtabula over near the PA. line EAST of cleveland about 60 miles
>saw the trucks for sale while on my way to detroit mi.
>i drive truck is why i see all these ones for sale all over the place
>YEP i know where your town is i think its exit 2 off the turnpike and
theres
>a steel mill around there we deliver to as well
>gordon
>=====================================================
>
>
>> where are you from ? I live about 50 min. west of toledo.
Montpelier,Ohio.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: G & J Boling <flash1 alltel.net>
>> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>> Date: Saturday, September 09, 2000 9:44 PM
>> Subject: [61-79-list] Trucks for sale
>>
>>
>> >today i saw what i think was about a 64 or so f100 out side of TOLEDO
>OHIO
>> >on rt 579 east of rt 51
>> >ALSO saw what was possibly about a 72 or so in a wrecking yard in
DETROIT
>> >MICH. right next to detroit lime company near the ford river rouge plant
>if
>> >any one is interested this one looked to be in pretty good shape except
>for
>> >maybe a missing engine and some other small things but the main parts
all
>> >seemed to either be attached or setting on it
>> >gordon
>> >
>> >=============================================================
>> >To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>> >Please remove this footer when replying.
>> > ....


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