61-79-list Digest V2000 #237

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61-79-list Digest Mon, 11 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 237

In This Issue:
Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
Re: Slipping 4WD AND Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Whe
61 Mercury short box unibody
Re: Ridges and Reamers
Re: Torino question
Re: 4 bbl spacer needed
Re: Bleeding brakes and CB's
Re: '79 CrewCab On Road
Re: Locked up engine (Leverage)
Re: intermittent wipers in a 66
Re: Ridges and Reamers
Re: Vacuum types, advances and fuel mixtures
Run To The Rock
Re: oil filters
Re: electrical system woes in 79 bronco
F-E's rule- The truth about Fords in Racing- 60's
Re: My first CJ!!!
Re: oil filters
Re: Vacuum types

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Rubberducky23

webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 07:41:12 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings

Actualy Erik... I know 74 through early 771/2 F250 Highboys did come
with a Dana 44 with the big external hubs (Dana HD44F....3550 lbs
capacity) internal hubs were just used on F150's and Broncos up until
mid 77 when external hubs no longer were avalible as an option and
internal hubs were used on all front axles from then on. Internal hubs
are not a very reliable way to ID a front axle type.

Laters, Danny Ling

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3

lni.net>
Subject: Re: Slipping 4WD AND Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Whe
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 08:47:32 -0700

BTW, if anyone is on the list from the days when I cried a blue streak
because I lost two pages of my manual.......I found the originals!!! :-)
Thanks to all who tried to help me on that occasion :-) These two pages
have the info needed to answer the questions related to the subject below:

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> As to tightening the wheel bearings, get your hub apart and then give us
a
> ring and I will tell you what the book says which aligns with everything I
> have ever heard about tapered bearings......IOW, trust me, you don't leave
> them torqued!!!

------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry

fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500

Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
"G"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 08:03:17 -0500
Subject: Re: '78 bumper tabs
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone

ford-trucks.com>

> Well I agree that the bumper jacks can be quite dangerous (though very
> handy in some instances) a bottle jack is not always the best. I found out
> in the middle of a cold winter, that you can't get a bottle jack under an
> i-beam when you have a seriously flat tire. I had to use the scissor jack
> out of my mother's H*nda to jack up my truck. Bottle jacks are very hand
> but you definitely need to have a rolling floor jack as well!

A good point, David. One thing often over looked when acquiring an after
market jack is just what you described. The jack has to be short enough to
get under the axle/I-beam with a totally flat tire. It has to have enough
travel to lift the vehicle high enough to install a totally inflated tire.
And it has to have enough lifting power to hoist a fully loaded vehicle.

Sometimes even a floor jack won't work. I have owned several cars (cars, I
say) that were designed to be lifted with a bumper jack on the rear. If you
lifted the rear on the axle, the tire wouldn't come out from under the
fender!

-- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3

lni.net>
Subject: Re: Ridges and Reamers
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:14:14 -0700

I would venture to guess that the ridge has to be reamed before it is bored
in any case so why not ream it to make extraction easier? Many Ford blocks
can be honed and rebuilt without boring the first time if they are not
damaged by broken rings etc. so why risk it?

You do have to take your time with this though because it is possible to cut
into the bore deeper than the wear with one of these (I won't go into how I
know this :-)) Better to leave a witnes on one side than to go too deep.

I'm still running a 460 that I honed and left a few witness marks in the top
of the bore but I did use new pistons, forged to make up for the over stock
bore size I wound up with. It is still a very quiet engine and has many
miles on it now. Because it is the "Desireable" 70 vintage engine I chose
to try to make it last as long as I could. I still have two rebuilds left
in it because of my strategy.

I have a 78 on the floor of the barn and when I rebuild it I will ream the
ridge out because I don't want to risk scratching the bore with a broken
ring, just in case the bores are that good. When I was younger and didn't
understand about the ridge I tried to get a few apart and did damage the
pistons and rings in the process. These were not Fords though so had deeper
ridges.......:-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> commenting. But, if you are taking apart an engine that is going to
require
> boring and new pistons anyway, why for goodness sakes would anyone care if
> you ream the ridge or not?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 08:15:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Ridges and Reamers
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone

ford-trucks.com>

> I dunno', John. I suppose there SHOULD be a ridge at the bottom of the bore
> for the same reasons there is one at the top (except that's not where the
> maximum cylinder pressures occur), but after being into dozens of engines over
> the last thirty-five or so years, I've never seen a ridge at the bottom of a
> cylinder. As a matter of fact, that's where I've found the best place to
> "mike" them, as that's where they are the least worn.

Ouch. OK, Ok, there's no ridge. I'm glad I was gone over the weekend. Looks
like I was cooked good and proper, as I deserved. I apologize for spewing
forth misinformation. ;-)

> ANYBODY that's going to consider going through a motor should get (at least
> rent) a ridge reamer and learn how to use it properly. You can dork up a
> perfectly bore-able block with one of these if you're not careful.

Amen and pass the biscuits.

-- John
jlagrone

worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Torino question
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 04:58:57 -0700

I had a 68 fastback GT. Could not slide a 351C in stock. Took me a few modifications. When the next style came out,( 1970?), the engine compartment was a bit wider to accept the 351C.

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 08:26:28 -0500
Subject: Re: cheater bars
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone

ford-trucks.com>

> I have a 12" breaker bar in my toolbox, and this is usually enough to free
> most bolts in the junkyard. I was really struggling with some wheel lug
> nuts, though, when I found a piece of 4' steel tubing in the back of the
> van. I slipped this over the handle of my wrench, and used it for increased
> leverage. Wow, the difference is amazing when you have a 4' handle. As long
> as you can fit it in the space provided, it's better to have a longer
> handle, and I didn't realize how much better until I actually tried it
> myself.

Twist and Shout? Twist off the bolt and shout every obscenity known to man?
I've broken a few bolts off with cheater bars. I still use one from time to
time. Just don't get carried away with them.

-- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com>

> I've never heard anyone else say using a ridge reamer is a waste of time.

Me neither and I have never been able to get the pistons past the ridge
without removing it. I'm just weird, I guess. I never take the pistons out
through the bottom either. I just wasn't taught to do it that way. The
crankshaft always got in the way.

-- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com>

> Has any one heard of Motorcraft?????? what would be wrong with closes
> thing to ford auto zone sell all kinds

Motorcraft is all I ever put on my FoMoCo vehicles.

-- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com>

> Ford filters are made to puralator type design specs for good reason, they
> are the best so Motorcraft or Puralator are good choices.

There was a web site up about a year ago that had all sorts of oil filter
information. It told which filters were made by whom, had pictures of them
cut open, etc. It had some good information, but it was biased because the
owner had a bone to pick. Anyone remember this site? It was about five
computers ago and I can't find the url.

-- John
jlagrone

p3.net>
Subject: Re: 4 bbl spacer needed

Tim
I need the spacer that has the port in the back so i can slip the hose on
that come
from the Valve cover and i thought was the pcv valve???
joe

Tim and Pam Allgire wrote:

> do you mean an EGR Valve ???
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe <shoman

p3.net>
> To: ford trucklist61-79 <61-79-list

ford-trucks.com>
> Date: Friday, September 08, 2000 10:09 PM
> Subject: [61-79-list] 4 bbl spacer needed
>
> >Anybody
> >have a 4 bbl spacer with an pcv port in the back for my 390???Holley
> >carb..
> >Joe
> >
> >=============================================================
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> >Please remove this footer when replying.
> >
>
> =============================================================
> To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76

hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes and CB's
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 14:29:19 GMT

Jason, I used to have a brake controller like you described. It had a brake
line going into the back of it. Right next to the brake line was a bleeder
valve (on mine anyways), looked just like one on the caliper. I just held
the pedal and reached under there and bled it.

Just a thought.

Marty

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------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster

tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: '79 CrewCab On Road
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 10:13:37 -0400

Wayne,
One question regarding your Boggers. Do you get a decent howl from them?
I have to replace my tires in the spring and I'm looking at National Tires
package of 33"X14" Boggers on the Black Street Bead lock rims. Believe it or
not my wife will not let me put any tire on unless it howls when driving!!!
I'm not arguing, just thankful, I'll see how she feels when the headers from
Stan get bolted on shortly with the 2 chamber Flowmasters under the cab.
Nothing like a cacophony of mechanical noise to start your day.

John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish

ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 13:57:52 GMT
Subject: Re: Locked up engine (Leverage)

>I have a 12" breaker bar in my toolbox, and this is usually enough to free
>most bolts in the junkyard. I was really struggling with some wheel lug
>nuts, though,

Oh man, lug nuts can be bears if the dorks putting them on use the wrong torque
or don't set one on their impact ... I've got a twisted 4way at home ... Dad
and I each had a hold of one end to get a lug nut off of the truck ... we twisted
it axially and it stuck that way!

> when I found a piece of 4' steel tubing in the back of the
>van. I slipped this over the handle of my wrench, and used it for increased

>leverage. Wow, the difference is amazing when you have a 4' handle. As long

>as you can fit it in the space provided, it's better to have a longer
>handle, and I didn't realize how much better until I actually tried it
>myself.
>

Yeah its pretty amazing, torque is force*length of lever arm ... if you can
double that length and maintain the same force, you've doubled the applied torque
... then the question is, can the socket/wrench handle it ?

Good tip :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish

ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 14:02:15 GMT
Subject: Re: intermittent wipers in a 66

>
>What do I need to do to get intermittent wipers in my 66 F100?

I'm not sure on this, but for the 73-79 its pretty easy (see the how to: on
the FTE site) ... check the plugs, or maybe someone knows if they're the same
or not ? Otherwise there's always aftermarket controllers and such that you
could probably cleverly mount :)

> Right now the wipers don't work very good... lots of slop in >the mechanism
and the wipers don't stop at the bottom when you turn off the switch...

Not sure about the slop (mine has that too, makes a neat clunk now), but the
not stopping at the bottom is a bad wire connection, on mine it was a dark colored
wire, but just check the connections in there to be sure they're all good, fixed
that and it stops at the bottom every time now.

>they also come down too far and slap into the window seal with >an annoying
noise.
>

Are you sure they're hitting the window seal ? if so, then you can pull the
arm off of the pivot by releasing the spring pressure and easing it off, then
rotate the arm up a notch or two so it clears the window seals and such ...
might want to practice on a salvage yard vehicle for pulling and placing the
wipers so you get the hang of it without scratching your own truck :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish

ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 14:03:23 GMT
Subject: Re: Ridges and Reamers

>The reason I don't take them out the bottom is that usually there is something

>small and insignificant like a main webbing in the way.

Don't you hate it when that happens ?

> Once in a while you run
>across a design that might allow bottom removal, but I can't think of any at
the
>moment.

I'm sure I pulled a few out of the bottom of my FE, not all, but some ...
Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish

ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 14:05:07 GMT
Subject: Re: Vacuum types, advances and fuel mixtures

>Not to be sarcastic, but are you sure the accelerator pump and mixtures are

>reset right for the new vacume source. Everything Ive seen and read says if

>you have a bog off the line, your going lean and need more enrichment. It

>could be the manifold vac setup is just covering up the bog by not responding

>with the "same timing curve".
>

Good point, the carb is an out of the box Holley 600 ... no changes to anything
on it, it all worked good to start with so I just stuck with it, though now
I need to tweak the choke a bit too.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: EffieFrd

aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:23:01 EDT
Subject: Run To The Rock

Hey Gang,
The Run To The Rock is this weekend. Its in Chimney Rock, North
Carolina...the 15th and 16th. Its a small show, but its good. First show I
ever entered my '65 in. :o) Its put on by The Non-Profit Truckers, and its
all Ford Trucks. The Georgia LoRiders are usually there too. Anyhow, I'll
be there Saturday...anybody else goin?

~Mel
Marietta, GA
1965 F100 Custom Cab
1989 Bronco XLT
ICQ#84544993
Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line...
Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan

kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: oil filters
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 08:24:50 -0700

>
> > Ford filters are made to puralator type design specs for
> good reason, they
> > are the best so Motorcraft or Puralator are good choices.
>
> There was a web site up about a year ago that had all sorts
> of oil filter
> information. It told which filters were made by whom, had
> pictures of them
> cut open, etc. It had some good information, but it was
> biased because the
> owner had a bone to pick. Anyone remember this site? It was about five
> computers ago and I can't find the url.
>
> -- John

I think (fram) one of the companies (fram) made him take the (fram) site
down. Fram.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther

alldata.com>
Subject: Re: electrical system woes in 79 bronco
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 08:26:21 -0700

Check the bulb sockets first. These are notorious for causing problems. I
had the same problem when I revived my '77 E150 from a 4+ year slumber. Get
4 new 1157 bulbs (don't assume any on the truck are good) and install them
and see if you got anything. If not, take your test light or voltmeter and
see if you have power to the INSIDE of the sockets. My problem was I was
getting 12V into the socket, but only about 3v out. Replacement sockets are
available at most parts stores for 5-6 bucks each...

-Subject: [61-79-list] electrical system woes in 79 bronco

>I just purchased my second 79 Bronco. It's a dream of a truck on the
>outside, but when you take a look behind the dash, it's a nightmare. The
>electrical system is shot to hell. Here is the list of the things that
>aren't working:
>turn signals
>brake lights
>tachometer
>fuel gauge
>overhead light
>
>The two things I really need to get working pronto are the turn signals and
>brake lights. When I turn the signal arm, it makes the noise as if it is
>working. But neither the light in the dash, or outside lights work. As
for
>the brake lights, well, the lights don't go on when I step on the brake.
If
>someone could tell me where to start looking to try and diagnose and fix
>these problems, I'd be much obliged.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob
>

------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto

Cinergy.com>
Subject: F-E's rule- The truth about Fords in Racing- 60's
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:19:21 -0400

I'm forwarding this because I thought we "all" might benefit from having it
next time your "bench racing" with your Bowtie, or Pentastar buddy's. Enjoy,
Phil
=======================================================

This is from the F-E board. This guy comes up with some
amazing stuff!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------
Truth about Fords in Racing, by Alan

Speaking of the truth, I came across an article in a Ford
magazine no less that contained so
many inaccuracies that I had to write. Here is my letter to
Jim Smart who writes for
"Mustangs and Fords".
-----------------------------------------
The article "Battleship Galactica " (March 2000) by Jim Smart
contained so many false
statements, inaccuracies and omissions that I felt an
overwhelming urge to write and set
the record straight. Frankly, Smart is so uninformed about
Ford racing that he sounds like a
GM or Chrysler guy to me.

Referring to the model year 1963, Smart says, "both the
dragstrip and roundy-round
belonged to Chrysler's 413 and 426 wedges in those days..."

It is obvious Jim wasn't around "in those days" because the
427 Galaxies RULED the
roundy-rounds. Tiny Lund won the first and biggest race of the
year, the Daytona 500, with
427's finishing 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th. I know because I
was there. From that race on,
the 427's never looked back. Ford won 23 races to Plymouths
19. However, the Plymouths
had earned all their victories on the short tracks. Ford
DOMINATED the Super Speedways.
Chevy had 8 wins and Pontiac had 4. It is no secret nor
overstatement to say the 4 barrel
426 Plymouths were down on power to the 4 barrel 427's. They
just could not keep up with
the Galaxies on the big tracks where power was king. The 413
Chrysler wasn't even in the
picture at that point. It was last year's (1962) engine and
positively, absolutely no factor
on the race track.

About the 427 Galaxie in drag racing, Smart says, "Not one 427
Galaxie ever took a major
NHRA Super Stock title."

Unlike NASCAR racing, where weight was not a penalty, it was a
big penalty in NHRA drag
racing. Even so, the heavy Galaxies were very competitive on
the street as well as the
track. Dick Brannan set the NHRA Super/Stock National record
at 12.42 on a hot July day no
less, while Ivan Potter's 426 Max Wedge Plymouth held the mph
record at 117.34. Also, at
the biggest race of the year, the INDY Nationals, Ed Martin's
lightweight Galaxie lost the
Super Stock trophy run to John Barker's Dodge but at the
teardown, the Dodge was found to
have an illegal cam. Ed Martin's 427 Galaxie should have been
declared the winner. Does
that count, Jim?
Also, it should be pointed out that there were only TWO (2)
National Event races in 1963:
the Winternationals and the Labor Day Indy Nationals.
How did the Fords do at the other events throughout the year
such as the Major Divisional
races that NHRA held more frequently?
I obtained the following from NHRA's own weekly magazine, the
National Dragster. These
results, all class winners, are from tracks all over the
country in the heat of the summer
from late July through early August. It is what was happening
on NHRA's race tracks at that
time.

SOUTHWEST USA
Super/Stock Osborne Auto Cossey 8/4/63 '63 Galaxie 12.65

112.78

NORTHCENTRAL USA
Super/Stock Bridenthal Ford 8/11/63 '63 Galaxie 12.90

112.64
Super/Stock Donald Leddy 8/4/63 '63 Galaxie 12.67

112.92
Super/Stock Ed Martin Ford 8/4/63 '63 Galaxie 13.21

110.29
Super/Stock Bridenthal Ford 8/4/63 '63 Galaxie 13.04

110.70
Super/Stock Ed Martin Ford 8/3/63 '63 Galaxie 12.78

112.07

SOUTHCENTRAL USA
Super/Stock Burl Hawkins 8/4/63 '63 Galaxie 12.79

112.21
Super/Stock Ed Jochim 8/4/63 '63 Galaxie 12.93

112.93
Super/Stock Ed Jochim 8/11/63 '63 Galaxie 13.12

109.63

NORTHWEST USA
Super/Stock Bill Ireland 8/4/63 '63 Galaxie 12.93

116.28

NORTHEAST USA
Super/Stock Bob Martin 8/11/63 '63 Galaxie 13.13

110.84
Super/Stock Hall Ford 8/10,11/63 '63 Galaxie 12.92

113.63
Super/Stock David Winnett 7/28/63 '63 Galaxie 12.60

111.80
Super/Stock Al Joniec 8/10/63 '63 Galaxie 12.87

113.92
Super/Stock Academy Ford 8/4/63 '63 Galaxie 12.41

114.68
Super/Stock Norristown Ford 8/3/63 '63 Galaxie 13.05

112.07

The comments Jim Smart made about the 1964 model year were
particularly irksome, as
well as totally and unbieveably untrue. Smart says, "In the
performance arena, Fords
flagship Galaxie continued toward the winners circle without
success."

Well, how about this Jim. Starting with NASCAR:

Plain and simple. Ford had their best season ever with 30
wins. Dodge was second with 14
while Plymouth had 12. If you add the 5 wins that Mercury had,
the 427 had a total of 35
NASCAR GRAND NATIONAL wins for the 1964 season. And these
weren't just short track
wins. Fred Lorenzen won the Atlanta 500 and proceeded to beat
up the Dodges and
Plymouths in 6 of the next 7 races. And this was against the
HEMI for chrissakes. Not the
426 wedge, but the HEMI! You know, KING KONG, the elephant
motor. This looks like the
winners circle to me, don't you think?

In drag racing, the Galaxie was awesome as it won more
NATIONAL races than any other
Ford to that date! It was a winner in three consecutive
National Events: the '64 Indy
Nationals, the 1965 WinterNationals and finally, the '65 Indy
Nationals, again!
It was Mike Schmitt driving the "Desert Motors" Galaxie to the
AA/SA class win at the '64
Indy Nationals. At the '65 Winternationals it was a clean
sweep as Doug Butler's 4-speed
took the win in AA/S with a 12.77

114.21 and Bill Hanyon did
the deed on the Automatic
side blistering the track with a 12.24

117.95. Additionally,
Bud Schellenberger's "double
A stock" '64 Galaxie was the 1965 "INDY Nationals" TOP STOCK
ELIMINATOR with a 12.16

114.21. If that isn't the winner's circle, I just don't know
what is.

I've already gone on long enough, but I would also like to
bring to your attention that
Galaxies of all FE engine types, 352, 390 and 427, were
regular winners throughout the USA
in A, B, C, and D/Stock during these years as well. All you
have to do to see this is pick up
an old issue of NHRA's National Dragster for 1963 or 1964 and
turn to the last several
pages as I don't have enough time to list them all. You will
find the weekly class by class
results from tracks all around the country.

In light of these facts, your story requires an amendment to
give the Galaxie its deserved
place in the "performance arena". Please notify your
readership in detail of the TRUE nature
of the Ford Galaxie's exemplary record in NATIONAL, Divisional
and local racing events or
consider me a former subscriber.

Jim Smarts statements would not be so surprising to me had I
read them in Car Craft,
Super Chevy or Hot Rod but they were published in a Ford
magazine. For God's sake, get it
right! A good deal of the records that I have scribed here,
have come from your very own
Petersen Publishing archives!!

Sincerely, Alan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 12:10:05 -0400
Subject: Free catalog!
From: Ron Miller <akraft

shentel.net>

We have just received the new updated 2000 issue of our 1953-72 Ford Pickup
catalog back from the printer. Again we are offering a copy free to the
Ford list subscribers. Email me off the list with your address and vehicle
type and I'll send you one at no obligation. If you have purchased from us
in the last 2 years yours is already in the mail. Thanks for your time and
consideration. Ron Miller akraft

shentel.net
--
Auto Krafters, Inc.
Classic Ford Parts
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.autokrafters.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.focusperformance.com
eBay seller ID akraft

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther

alldata.com>
Subject: Re: My first CJ!!!
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:15:54 -0700

'66 huh? My fave too! Just have to share this tale of woe with someone who
can appreciate it...

There is a mom-n-pop "pull it yerself" parts yard here in the Sacramento
area. They don't advertise, and don't have a big selection maybe 100 cars)
but they're dirt cheap and sometimes I get lucky there. They usually have
10-15 cars in front as you walk in that they try to sell whole for $300 up
depending on condition. Most usually have some body damage. I was in there
looking for parts to complete an engine install and spotted a white '66
Continental up front and was immediately drawn to it. No real body damage
except for a minor crease in the front drivers door, no broken glass, trim
real good (couple cracked pieces-no biggie). Interior showed wear on the
front seat, the back looked like new. The glaring problem appeared to be
all the wires hanging down under the ignition switch area. They only wanted
$450. They said they had not tried to start it because they had no key and
the wiring...

I went home and began pleading my case to SWMBO. Finally after a couple
days of this, she relented somewhat and agreed to go look at it.

Of course it was gone. Left the previous day. Yard man commented that the
buyers had come in that morning to pick up the paperwork and had got it
running in less than an hour (and it ran well)! I did not need to know
that! ARGGGGGHHHHH!!!! 450 bucks for a decent running '66? DOH!!! DOH!!!
Rich

FTE Content: I drove a '77 E150 to go look at it... :)
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary [mailto:gpeters3

lni.net]
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 8:37 PM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: My first CJ!!!

Yeah, just saw a suicide door lincoln (65/67) for sale........my favorite
model, but no money :-( Not sure which year but it has a hump on the side
so I don't think it's a 66 which is actually my all time fav.....:-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

------------------------------

From: "Christopher Worley" <cworley76

hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: oil filters
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 16:19:44 GMT

>I think (fram) one of the companies (fram) made him take the (fram) site
>down. Fram.
>
>Tom H.

I believe you are right, I saved the email that was sent, here is the URL
but it isn't working for me.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html

Chris
67 F100

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:23:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: James Oxley <joxenburger

yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum types

John Webster wrote:
>
> Wayne,
> One question regarding your Boggers. Do you get
a decent howl from them?
> I have to replace my tires in the spring and I'm
looking at National Tires
> package of 33"X14" Boggers on the Black Street Bead
lock rims. Believe it or
> not my wife will not let me put any tire on unless
it howls when driving!!!
> I'm not arguing, just thankful, I'll see how she
feels when the headers from
> Stan get bolted on shortly with the 2 chamber
Flowmasters under the cab.
> Nothing like a cacophony of mechanical noise to
start your day.
>

Mine howl good, but not really around town. Below 10
MPH they feel like sqaure wheels :-). At 55 MPH, it
sounds like a small cesna about to take off.

OX

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56,
D60/detroit/4.56, 44 boggers, 9" lift
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10,
D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5 SX's, 4"lift
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4

107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7

104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9

82)

--- Gary <gpeters3

lni.net> wrote:
> What I've noticed is that with ported you have
> immediate advance from
> basically initial timing which is necessary for
> newer engines because they
> are "lean burn" engines and so have leaner mixtures
> in the transition stage.
> With ported vac the timing is advanced to what ever
> the vac would hold it to
> at that throttle opening where with manifold vac you
> always have a
> retardation effect at initial opening from a much
> higher advance which works
> well for carbed engines with richer accellerator
> pump settings etc.. Hot
> rod engines with big carbs for instance will
> probably work better with
> manifold vac.
>
> I have hooked vac gauges to both ports and watched
> the vac as I opened the
> throttle and the ported vac never reaches the same
> total vac that the
> manifold does and actually stays lower throughout
> the range and at idle you
> have zero as was stated. I suspect that this was
> necessary to prevent
> pinging in lean burn engines. With manfold vac you
> have to run lower
> initial advance on these engines to prevent pinging
> on take off. My Holley
> on my bronco does not have this port so I had to
> retard the timing from
> where I really wanted it to prevent holing my
> pistons when running manifold
> vac. The OEM spread bore on my 70 vintage 460 uses
> manifold vac and is very
> happy with it. That carb runs very rich but there
> is no way to tune it that
> I know of. Can't wait to get the Offy manifold and
> Rochester combo on it
> :-)
>
> With manifold vac you idle at about 30 degrees
> advance and with ported at
> about 10 degrees depending on what vac you have
> installed. When you gently
> open the throttle with manifold the timing drops
> back somewhat to about 20
> or even less where with the ported it advances to
> about the same point.
> Obviously some engines work better one way than the
> other and most stock
> setups will probably do better with ported.
>
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)
>
> > Yes, It is. This is so the engine gets timing
> advance to prevent the
> engine ....

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