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Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 07:42:41 -0400 (EDT)
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sun, 10 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 236

In This Issue:
Re: electrical system woes in 79 bronco
Re: OFFTOPIC: torino questions
Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
Re: oil filters
Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
rev limiters
Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
OFFTOPIC: Torino second question
electric window kit from Dennis Carpenter
Re: oil filters
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
61 Mercury short box unibody
Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
1979 CrewCab On Road!!
Re: 19 YEAR OLD OVER HEATING QUESTION
Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
Re: oil filters
Re: motor mounts
Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
Re: Slipping 4WD AND Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Whe
Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: electrical system woes in 79 bronco
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:35:14 -0800

Well xavetarx as far as your blinkers and such go, I aint too sure, but with
the brakes check your brake switch that is attached to the top of the brake
arm under your dash. A good way to test it is to jumper the doggone thing
and see if the brakes light up hehehe, or you can do it the technical way
and use a guage/voltmeter/circut tester. With the rest of the electrical
system, always remember K.I.S.S. Keep it simple stupid. Meaning to always
check the easy/inexpensive stuff first like bulbs disconnected wires and the
likes

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <xavetarx home.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, September 10, 2000 6:03 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] electrical system woes in 79 bronco


>I just purchased my second 79 Bronco.  It's a dream of a truck on the
>outside, but when you take a look behind the dash, it's a nightmare.  The
>electrical system is shot to hell.  Here is the list of the things that
>aren't working:
>turn signals
>brake lights
>tachometer
>fuel gauge
>overhead light
>
>The two things I really need to get working pronto are the turn signals and
>brake lights.  When I turn the signal arm, it makes the noise as if it is
>working.  But neither the light in the dash, or outside lights work.  As
for
>the brake lights, well, the lights don't go on when I step on the brake.
If
>someone could tell me where to start looking to try and diagnose and fix
>these problems, I'd be much obliged.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:51:25 EDT
Subject: Re: OFFTOPIC: torino questions

All of the engine listed are possibly in this Torino. One other is the 400. I
had a 74 Torino with one of these.

I also agree the 302 is the most likely to be found nestled under that hood.
Look to the serial numbers for something to start with if you are not good at
engine identity at a glance.

Hope this helps.

Rollie H. Hunt

------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 21:03:43 -0700

> The hub..... You do have the internal type.....it's the only type that
goes
> on a Dana 44 axle

Maybe this should end "for a '79 F150 from the factory"
Some of the earlier 3/4 ton 44's had external hubs.  Jeep pickups and Scouts
also had the same design of external hubs on their 44's (doesn't really
apply).   And the Jeep/Scout external hubs and outer parts can be swapped to
a Ford  which is another way to gain disc brakes.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD



------------------------------

From: "Keith" <A2JKEITH GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: oil filters
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:44:12 -0800

Well I work for Napa and I can confirm the price of the 1515 filter (wix)
but up here in Alaska it costs a hair more, if you have doubts as to whether
or not your filter is doin its job, go with a high performance filter which
will run ya about $6 more or, get the magnetic wrap for it, takes all the
metal out anyway (Hope ya dont have metal in your oil to begin with by the
way)

-----Original Message-----
From: David Lindenmayer <davidl tbcnet.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, September 10, 2000 7:35 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: oil filters


>Has any one heard of Motorcraft??????    what would be wrong with closes
>thing to ford    auto zone   sell all kinds
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Date: Monday, September 04, 2000 7:20 PM
>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: oil filters
>
>
>>"G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net> wrote:
>>> i was wondering if this was a better filter to use and if it was a
>>> smaller micron inside of it does anyone know???
>>
>>I've been using Wix 51515's, but recently changed to Baldwin B-2's.
>>Some truck repair places will tell you that the Fleetguard LF3313's
>>are even better, but I don't know.  I've got one to try, but what am
>>I gonna' find?  More soot?  Dunno.  I used to use Baldwins some thirty
>>years ago.  Bought 'em by the case from a fleet operator.  Then the
>>distributer went out of business.  They were sort of hard to find here
>>in the Los Angeles area, so I used Fram, 'till I read the Minimopar
>>document.  I even worked for AlliedSignal, and dropped them like a hot,
>>oil-filled piece of ........  Looked around and found a new Baldwin
>>distributer.  BTW, Hastings is made by Baldwin, as well.  If you look
>>inside a Scamsoil, they look virtually identical, too.  (Wonder who
>>makes 'em for them?)  But Fleetguard is (according to those who SHOULD
>>know) made by Cummins, not vended to them.  Gotta wonder, though, why
>>they would set up a filter line when they could have them made to their
>>specs by a filter manufacturer.  I do like the idea that they come
>>sealed in plastic shrink-wrap, however.
>>
>>My local Napa guy is selling the Napa Wix for about $7.00.  I've been
>>buying the Wix's at a heavy-duty fleet truck repair place for $3.52.
>>Call around for prices, and consider buying them by the case.  They
>>might be even cheaper that way.
>>
>>The Baldwins are $4.13, and the Fleetguards are $4.39 at the fleet
>>repair places.
>>
>>-M-
>>
>>Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
>>"Striving to be the person
>> that my dog thinks I am".
>>=============================================================
>>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>>Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 20:00:43 -0800

Humm, well ok,, I just figured we were discussing the hub options on this
vehicle in particular, I figured it was obvious that my statement was in
relation to that model, year.  But I suppose you have a point,, Somebody
unknowing may have some how misunderstood my statement and applied it to
there
non-ford, non-79, non-F150 and confused their external hubs with the
internal type..

Knowledge is power, and power is good.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Derra <derrar internetcds.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, September 10, 2000 7:52 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings


>> The hub..... You do have the internal type.....it's the only type that
>goes
>> on a Dana 44 axle
>
>Maybe this should end "for a '79 F150 from the factory"
>Some of the earlier 3/4 ton 44's had external hubs.  Jeep pickups and
Scouts
>also had the same design of external hubs on their 44's (doesn't really
>apply).   And the Jeep/Scout external hubs and outer parts can be swapped
to
>a Ford  which is another way to gain disc brakes.
>Jason
>'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
>'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 21:03:50 -0800
Subject: motor mounts
From: "George E. Pauline" <amador1 volcano.net>

Hi all, got a question! What is the difference between the motor mounts of
a 429 and those of a 460 engine? I've been punnishing 385 series engines for
the past 30 yr's and never realized there was a difference. G.E.P. (calif.)
--



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: rev limiters
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:08:42 -0500


I have a Mallory Unilite Distributor and a ProMaster coil on my 390. What are my options for putting a rev limiter on my engine? Is there a cheaper way than getting a Mallory ignition box with all the bells and whistles which I really don't need?

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 21:55:30 -0700

I realized what you were talking about.  Just some useless (until you need
it :^)) information to throw out there.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD

----- Original Message -----
From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 9:00 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings


> Humm, well ok,, I just figured we were discussing the hub options on this
> vehicle in particular, I figured it was obvious that my statement was in
> relation to that model, year.  But I suppose you have a point,, Somebody
> unknowing may have some how misunderstood my statement and applied it to
> there
> non-ford, non-79, non-F150 and confused their external hubs with the
> internal type..
>
> Knowledge is power, and power is good.
>
> Erik Marquez
> bronco78 alaska.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
> Home of the BB decal
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Derra <derrar internetcds.com>
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Date: Sunday, September 10, 2000 7:52 PM
> Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
>
>
> >> The hub..... You do have the internal type.....it's the only type that
> >goes
> >> on a Dana 44 axle
> >
> >Maybe this should end "for a '79 F150 from the factory"
> >Some of the earlier 3/4 ton 44's had external hubs.  Jeep pickups and
> Scouts
> >also had the same design of external hubs on their 44's (doesn't really
> >apply).   And the Jeep/Scout external hubs and outer parts can be swapped
> to
> >a Ford  which is another way to gain disc brakes.
> >Jason
> >'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
> >'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
> >
> >
> >=============================================================
> >To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> >Please remove this footer when replying.
> >
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:49:18 -0700
From: Negative Image <negativeimage earthlink.net>
Subject: OFFTOPIC: Torino second question

anyone know of a general production page for the torino? mainly where i
can find parts listings, paint schemes, etc?

thanks in advance. i won't ask any more i swear.

--
Andrew Rolfsen
1971 AMC Javelin SST
1968 Mercury Cougar
1966 Plymouth Fury III
1965 Ford F100 Fleetside Pickup
(hopefully a torino)


------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: electric window kit from Dennis Carpenter
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 00:04:54 -0500


Anyone tried this? I want to do it but for $450 I want to be sure it's going to work ok.


---Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 22:18:23 -0700
Subject: Re: electrical system woes in 79 bronco
From: Mark R Heims <markheims juno.com>

Bob,
As far as the turn signals and brake lights, I would check the ground
circuits first.  I've seen several have problems because of this.  The
brake lights and turn signals are intermixed in the column.  They are
connected together in the turn signal switch which allows one taillight
to flash while the other is on solid for the stop light.  If there is
problems with the turn signal switch it will affect both.  The best thing
I can recommend is a good meter and lots of patience.  Are you in central
California?  I'll give you a hand if you are.

Montana Mark (in California until the end of the month)
1978 Ford F150 4x4, The Great Pumpkin
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.initco.net/~mheims/index.html

"Bob" writes:
> I just purchased my second 79 Bronco.  It's a dream of a truck on the
> outside, but when you take a look behind the dash, it's a nightmare.

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: oil filters
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 03:11:44 -0400





> Has any one heard of Motorcraft??????    what would be wrong with closes
> thing to ford    auto zone   sell all kinds
===========================================================
thats what i use is Motorcraft they are a ford filter far as i know even the
ford dealers sell and use them
gordon


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: 61 Mercury short box unibody
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:41:56 -0500


Found this truck on www.auto-rv.com and owner's number is 517-875-5039 and in Ithaca, MI. It comes with a parts truck for $2,000. Thought it might ping some interest being a Mercury AND a unibody!
                          "G"


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 06:35:03 -0400
From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings

>Humm, ok lest start with the hub..
>
>The hub..... You do have the internal type.....it's the only type that goes
>on a Dana 44 axle

I was pretty sure of that...but when I started taking it apart and the
pieces weren't matching the diagrams, it got a little confusing! :-)

>The culprit that is keeping you from removing the out side gear is a small
>external snap ring. It resides in the hub it self (not the locking hub which
>is what your trying to remove) take a rag and clean the inside of the hub, ,
>push the outer locking hub gear in slightly, you will then see the snap ring
>that is holding the gear in to the hub.  Using a pick set or two small screw
>drivers remove the snap ring, the locking hub will now come out.  I strongly
>suggest sacrificing one small screw driver to the custom tool god.... Heat
>the very end of the screw driver up, and bend/form it to a hook shape.  This
>new tool will make getting under (between the hub and snap ring) the snap
>ring much easier, and allow you to "hook" it and pull it out.

I'll have another wack at it tonight but we weren't having much luck
locating a snap ring that was holding everything in place. If my memory is
correct, when the mechanic was replacing ball joints and rotor on the
drivers side, he said something about having a heck of a time getting the
hub off. So maybe it's not just me! Perhaps I'll try the driver's side
first and see if it's any easier. I'll also take the digital camera with me
- given that this doesn't seem to be following the shop manuals it would
probably make a good addition to the tech library...

I'm going to be really ticked today if nobody has those shocks I need in
stock...


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 07:15:53 EDT
Subject: 1979 CrewCab On Road!!

Well....I finally finished converting my 1979 F-350 2wd to a 4x4.  The only
thing I have to do is remount the midship gas tank back approx. 8 inches.  If
I cannot do it because of the crossmembers, I will buy an aftermarket one.
Anybody know of a company that will manufacture a special "One Off" one?  It
drives perfect, but it is alot rougher ride with the front leaf springs.  It
has a 5" lift from stock and has 35" BF Goodrich Mud Tires on it.  The tires
are very quite compared to the 39-1/2" Boggers on my 1979 Bronco!!!
Anyway....Just wanted to keep the people who asked about the 4x4 conversion
updated.  For whoever got the CD with all the conversion pictures.....Did you
check out all the pics?   Thanks & Take Care!!!  Wayne Grabley (Clifton, NJ)

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: 19 YEAR OLD OVER HEATING QUESTION
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 04:19:00 -0700

<Snip>
> PS has anyone ever heard of a truck coming from the factory without
> emergency brakes?  This truck was bought new, I bring it to
> Virginia and
> fail the State inspection.  The knock-out's for the emegency
> brake cable was
> not even punched out in the rear backing plates.  The only
> thing in the
> truck was the cable going from the emergency brake pedal to
> aft of the cab,
> nothing else, including nothing for the emegency brake under
> the brake drum,
> HONEST.  (they claimed somebody must have removed them)
>
> Rich
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>

Never heard of a truck coming without a parking/emergency brake.  I have
seen some with a cable operated brake assemby on the output of the
transmission.  That would fit in with what you describe.  Course your truck
might be  a Monday/Friday truck. :0)

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 04:34:34 -0700

A couple of things. If you are running the original Ford hubs then you have
either the internal or the external. The easiest way to tell them apart is
that the internal is all smooth on the outside with the allen heads recessed
inside the retaining knob. The external have the allen heads inside cutouts
on the knob retainer. Chances are you have the internal since I don't think
many F150s came with the heavier duty externals.

If you are working on the internal then you have to deal with 2 snap rings,
1 external on the end of the axle shaft (the 1 you found) and 1 internal
which is recessed into the hub itself (not the locking mechanism). That's
the 1 which is preventing you from pulling the rest of the locking mechanism
out of the hub. A couple of small screwdrivers should be used to remove it.
Also you're going to need the "4 toothed wonder socket" if you plan on
servicing the wheel bearings. Most auto supply shops have them.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Wadson" <wadsond air.on.ca>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 4:57 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings


>
> For starters, none of the diagrams in any of my shop manuals seem to
> accurately represent my hubs. I'm not sure if they're internal or
> external-type free-wheeling hubs - they seem to share pieces and assembly
> order from both diagrams in my Haynes manual though the 79 shop manual
only
> shows internal type. Upon removing the allen head bolts (damn metric sized
> nuts), the whole selector knob comes out in one piece, not in multiple
like
> the Ford shop manual showed. For those of you with a factory manual, it
> seemed like the first 4 steps in section 11-12 (Free-running hub (internal
> type) removal and installation) were all taken care of in one fell swoop.
> Removing one phillips head screw allowed a gear (the outer clutch gear as
> per the external type in the Hayne's diagram) to come out, along with a
> spring that was behind it. We removed a snap ring from the end of the axle
> shaft (the axle shaft snap ring  as per the internal type hub diagram)
> .After that we couldn't get anywhere. There seemed to be two gear pieces
> (re. external type hub diagram) inside of the actual hub assembly - a gear
> housing that the allen head screws that held the whole thing together
> screwed into, and a smaller gear inside (the inner clutch gear/ring) that
> was pressed over the end of the axle shaft. For the life of us, we
couldn't
> figure out how to get either one off. Prying, pulling, etc. didn't work
and
> we couldn't see any other snap rings holding things in. After much
> headscratching and mild cussing, we just tossed the whole thing back
> together.




------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 07:42:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings

 This is one of those cases where a picture or two would be worth a thousand
words.  Anybody have pictures?

Stock Man
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

In a message dated 9/11/2000 7:33:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bbeyer99 home.com writes:

> The easiest way to tell them apart is
>  that the internal is all smooth on the outside with the allen heads
recessed
>  inside the retaining knob. The external have the allen heads inside cutouts
>  on the knob retainer.

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: oil filters
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 07:55:01 -0700

Ford filters are made to puralator type design specs for good reason, they
are the best so Motorcraft or Puralator are good choices.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> > Has any one heard of Motorcraft??????    what would be wrong with closes
> > thing to ford    auto zone   sell all kinds



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: motor mounts
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 08:00:57 -0700

If you found a difference then you have found a hybred, they use the same
block with the same bolt patterns and machining, they are completely
interchangeable.  There may have been some  special blocks machined for the
mustangs due to tight fitment etc. but I even doubt that.  I know certain
FE's had different heads for fitment purposes but the mounts were still the
same AFAIK.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)


> Hi all, got a question! What is the difference between the motor mounts of
> a 429 and those of a 460 engine? I've been punnishing 385 series engines
for
> the past 30 yr's and never realized there was a difference. G.E.P.
(calif.)



------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 05:05:45 -0700

Yeah you're right, pics would be nice. Unfortunately I can't supply them
since I replaced my stock Ford internal locks with Warns several years ago.
I hate to say it but the design of the factory internal locking mechanism
wasn't one of Ford's "better ideas".

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: <TBeeee aol.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 4:42 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings


>   This is one of those cases where a picture or two would be worth a
thousand
> words.  Anybody have pictures?
>




------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Slipping 4WD AND Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Whe
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 08:24:08 -0700

Ok, number one, if the axle turns then the hub is not the problem, the diff
is.  If neither the other wheel nor the drive shaft turn when you turn the
axle by what ever means then you have serious problems.

On the hub, they can get burrs on them from abuse and even small pieces of
dirt can prevent it from coming out and if it is worn it can tip sidways and
bind so I would spray the heck out of it and rinse it out as well as
possible with brake cleaner so you can see what you are doing then try to
find the spot that is preventing  you.

If the hub is indeed bent then  you have a serious problem which will
require the removal of the hub itself.........can't remember the exact
sequence right now but don't think it can be done without removing the
bearing nuts.  I removed the whole thing once but the bearings were so
damaged that I could get a box  wrench behind the rotor and get the bolts
out that held the whole mess on to the yoke.  In your case you may need a
smoke wrench but I'd do all I could to get the slide part out first even if
you have to use a grinder to ease the tight spots (carefully of course).

As to tightening the wheel bearings, get  your hub apart and then give us a
ring and I will tell you what the book says which aligns with everything I
have ever heard about tapered bearings......IOW, trust me, you don't leave
them torqued!!!

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> problem because the universal joint in the axle was rotating at the same
> rate as the wheel.

> (with the six bolt holes in it) wouldn't budge.  I was positive that all I
> had to do was put two screws back in, and pull it out.  I'm guessing that
> the hub may be a little bent, and preventing it to slide out.  Other


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 08:36:23 -0700

You may have after market hubs on this.  The after market hubs are all
different from each other and from the factory hubs in the way all the parts
fit together so would not match the book.

The Warn hubs are all one piece and can be a little hard to get out if you ....


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