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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:38:31 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:38:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #235 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Sun, 10 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 235 In This Issue: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings What to do in central California electrical system woes in 79 bronco Re: 4 bbl spacer needed Re: Trucks for sale OFFTOPIC: torino questions Re: OFFTOPIC: torino questions Re: electrical system woes in 79 bronco Re: OFFTOPIC: torino questions Re: electrical system woes in 79 bronco Slipping 4WD AND Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel B Re: Ridges and Reamers Re: Ridges and Reamers Re: Trucks for sale Re: Slipping 4WD AND Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Whe Re: oil filters ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:57:44 -0400 From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings Well, I finally got outside on a weekend to do some truck stuff and was able to diagnose a few of the clunks, rattles, shimmies and pulls that my truck has been doing. Problem one was quite obvious once I actually looked under the truck - one of my shocks has lost the bushing on the bottom bolt allowing it to clunk back around. I'm hoping that's most of the reason for some of the shimmy I get while braking. It would have been quite an easy job to do except the automotive store that was open Saturday night didn't have any shocks in stock for my truck (?!?!) and the one other store that was open today (Sunday) also didn't have them. Aaarrggghh! I'm going to snap if I can't find a store on Monday that has them! :-) I nearly resorted to Walmart for shocks but the application guide didn't list 79 F150 4x4s (though it did have every year of F250 ?!?!). I also wasn't impressed at the appearance of the shocks that they did have there...I think the modern mountain bike has a more rugged suspension! Anyways, problem two that I noticed was that one of my tires has a bit of a wobble in it when you grab the tire and rock it back and forth. Lug nuts are all tight and the ball joints don't seem to be moving. It seems to be the brake rotor that wobbles. If I did happen to need them, none of the stores open on Sunday had the bearings but I figured I could at least get in there and see if the bearing was worn and to tighten the retaining nut that holds the rotor onto the spindle. Fat chance!! For starters, none of the diagrams in any of my shop manuals seem to accurately represent my hubs. I'm not sure if they're internal or external-type free-wheeling hubs - they seem to share pieces and assembly order from both diagrams in my Haynes manual though the 79 shop manual only shows internal type. Upon removing the allen head bolts (damn metric sized nuts), the whole selector knob comes out in one piece, not in multiple like the Ford shop manual showed. For those of you with a factory manual, it seemed like the first 4 steps in section 11-12 (Free-running hub (internal type) removal and installation) were all taken care of in one fell swoop. Removing one phillips head screw allowed a gear (the outer clutch gear as per the external type in the Hayne's diagram) to come out, along with a spring that was behind it. We removed a snap ring from the end of the axle shaft (the axle shaft snap ring as per the internal type hub diagram) .After that we couldn't get anywhere. There seemed to be two gear pieces (re. external type hub diagram) inside of the actual hub assembly - a gear housing that the allen head screws that held the whole thing together screwed into, and a smaller gear inside (the inner clutch gear/ring) that was pressed over the end of the axle shaft. For the life of us, we couldn't figure out how to get either one off. Prying, pulling, etc. didn't work and we couldn't see any other snap rings holding things in. After much headscratching and mild cussing, we just tossed the whole thing back together. I'm tempted to take the thing to the mechanic and have him fix it but if I'm going to get into this 4x4 hobby, I really should learn how to dissaemble and repack my hubs. Hopefully you guys have some insight into what kind of hubs I have and how to get at the wheel bearing nut. I've seen what happens when you ignore a wheel bearing...I don't want my wheel to fall off while flying down the highway... If need be, I can snap half disassemble the truck again and take some pictures of the hubs... Thanks in advance... David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces. "PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking. "PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into... Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada ------------------------------ From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 16:08:12 -0800 Humm, ok lest start with the hub.. The hub..... You do have the internal type.....it's the only type that goes on a Dana 44 axle The culprit that is keeping you from removing the out side gear is a small external snap ring. It resides in the hub it self (not the locking hub which is what your trying to remove) take a rag and clean the inside of the hub, , push the outer locking hub gear in slightly, you will then see the snap ring that is holding the gear in to the hub. Using a pick set or two small screw drivers remove the snap ring, the locking hub will now come out. I strongly suggest sacrificing one small screw driver to the custom tool god.... Heat the very end of the screw driver up, and bend/form it to a hook shape. This new tool will make getting under (between the hub and snap ring) the snap ring much easier, and allow you to "hook" it and pull it out. Erik Marquez bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78 Home of the BB decal -----Original Message----- From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, September 10, 2000 3:53 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings >Well, I finally got outside on a weekend to do some truck stuff and was >able to diagnose a few of the clunks, rattles, shimmies and pulls that my >truck has been doing. Problem one was quite obvious once I actually looked >under the truck - one of my shocks has lost the bushing on the bottom bolt >allowing it to clunk back around. I'm hoping that's most of the reason for >some of the shimmy I get while braking. It would have been quite an easy >job to do except the automotive store that was open Saturday night didn't >have any shocks in stock for my truck (?!?!) and the one other store that >was open today (Sunday) also didn't have them. Aaarrggghh! I'm going to >snap if I can't find a store on Monday that has them! :-) I nearly resorted >to Walmart for shocks but the application guide didn't list 79 F150 4x4s >(though it did have every year of F250 ?!?!). I also wasn't impressed at >the appearance of the shocks that they did have there...I think the modern >mountain bike has a more rugged suspension! > >Anyways, problem two that I noticed was that one of my tires has a bit of a >wobble in it when you grab the tire and rock it back and forth. Lug nuts >are all tight and the ball joints don't seem to be moving. It seems to be >the brake rotor that wobbles. If I did happen to need them, none of the >stores open on Sunday had the bearings but I figured I could at least get >in there and see if the bearing was worn and to tighten the retaining nut >that holds the rotor onto the spindle. Fat chance!! > >For starters, none of the diagrams in any of my shop manuals seem to >accurately represent my hubs. I'm not sure if they're internal or >external-type free-wheeling hubs - they seem to share pieces and assembly >order from both diagrams in my Haynes manual though the 79 shop manual only >shows internal type. Upon removing the allen head bolts (damn metric sized >nuts), the whole selector knob comes out in one piece, not in multiple like >the Ford shop manual showed. For those of you with a factory manual, it >seemed like the first 4 steps in section 11-12 (Free-running hub (internal >type) removal and installation) were all taken care of in one fell swoop. >Removing one phillips head screw allowed a gear (the outer clutch gear as >per the external type in the Hayne's diagram) to come out, along with a >spring that was behind it. We removed a snap ring from the end of the axle >shaft (the axle shaft snap ring as per the internal type hub diagram) >.After that we couldn't get anywhere. There seemed to be two gear pieces >(re. external type hub diagram) inside of the actual hub assembly - a gear >housing that the allen head screws that held the whole thing together >screwed into, and a smaller gear inside (the inner clutch gear/ring) that >was pressed over the end of the axle shaft. For the life of us, we couldn't >figure out how to get either one off. Prying, pulling, etc. didn't work and >we couldn't see any other snap rings holding things in. After much >headscratching and mild cussing, we just tossed the whole thing back >together. > >I'm tempted to take the thing to the mechanic and have him fix it but if >I'm going to get into this 4x4 hobby, I really should learn how to >dissaemble and repack my hubs. Hopefully you guys have some insight into >what kind of hubs I have and how to get at the wheel bearing nut. I've seen >what happens when you ignore a wheel bearing...I don't want my wheel to >fall off while flying down the highway... If need be, I can snap half >disassemble the truck again and take some pictures of the hubs... > >Thanks in advance... > > >David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
>"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces. >"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking. >"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into... >Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada > > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: JXS <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
Subject: What to do in central California Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 17:17:06 -0700 Whoever lives in Central CA should take Montana Mark up on his offer!!!!!! This guy is good! He was responsible for getting the racetrack trim attached straight on that 77 resto. I'm also eternally greatful as he remembered a key gasket between the transfer case and adapter just at the crucial time, while I still had the tranny jack....it would have been a nightmare if we had forgotten it!!! Thanks again Mark, and I'll bet you're glad to be out of the smoke up in Montana for awhile!!!!!!!! CJ -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: application/ms-tnef ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: electrical system woes in 79 bronco Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:02:35 -0400 I just purchased my second 79 Bronco. It's a dream of a truck on the outside, but when you take a look behind the dash, it's a nightmare. The electrical system is shot to hell. Here is the list of the things that aren't working: turn signals brake lights tachometer fuel gauge overhead light The two things I really need to get working pronto are the turn signals and brake lights. When I turn the signal arm, it makes the noise as if it is working. But neither the light in the dash, or outside lights work. As for the brake lights, well, the lights don't go on when I step on the brake. If someone could tell me where to start looking to try and diagnose and fix these problems, I'd be much obliged. Thanks, Bob ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 4 bbl spacer needed Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:50:06 -0400 do you mean an EGR Valve ??? -----Original Message----- From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
To: ford trucklist61-79 <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, September 08, 2000 10:09 PM Subject: [61-79-list] 4 bbl spacer needed >Anybody >have a 4 bbl spacer with an pcv port in the back for my 390???Holley >carb.. >Joe > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Trucks for sale Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:01:12 -0400 where are you from ? I live about 50 min. west of toledo. Montpelier,Ohio. -----Original Message----- From: G & J Boling <flash1 alltel.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, September 09, 2000 9:44 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Trucks for sale >today i saw what i think was about a 64 or so f100 out side of TOLEDO OHIO >on rt 579 east of rt 51 >ALSO saw what was possibly about a 72 or so in a wrecking yard in DETROIT >MICH. right next to detroit lime company near the ford river rouge plant if >any one is interested this one looked to be in pretty good shape except for >maybe a missing engine and some other small things but the main parts all >seemed to either be attached or setting on it >gordon > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 21:57:59 -0700 From: Negative Image <negativeimage earthlink.net>
Subject: OFFTOPIC: torino questions in one of our local treasure yards i have come across a ford torino. it's parked in kinda close to the other cars, so that i cannot get to the door tag. my question is this: does anyone have any information concerning engine sizes in the different years of the torino? the reason i ask is i am aware that quite a few came with 351c or better. the guy has told me $200 and it's mine, but i'm only after the engine. -- Andrew Rolfsen 1971 AMC Javelin SST 1968 Mercury Cougar 1966 Plymouth Fury III ------------------------------ From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:00:00 EDT Subject: Re: OFFTOPIC: torino questions what year is it? could be a 302,351w,351c,390,428,429,460 ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: electrical system woes in 79 bronco Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:11:05 -0400 check all the bulbs in the dash & the tailights first. check the brake light switch that is attached to the brake pedal. -----Original Message----- From: Bob <xavetarx home.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, September 10, 2000 10:10 PM Subject: [61-79-list] electrical system woes in 79 bronco >I just purchased my second 79 Bronco. It's a dream of a truck on the >outside, but when you take a look behind the dash, it's a nightmare. The >electrical system is shot to hell. Here is the list of the things that >aren't working: >turn signals >brake lights >tachometer >fuel gauge >overhead light > >The two things I really need to get working pronto are the turn signals and >brake lights. When I turn the signal arm, it makes the noise as if it is >working. But neither the light in the dash, or outside lights work. As for >the brake lights, well, the lights don't go on when I step on the brake. If >someone could tell me where to start looking to try and diagnose and fix >these problems, I'd be much obliged. > >Thanks, > >Bob > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:57:04 -0400 From: bill poudrier <poudrier ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: Re: OFFTOPIC: torino questions Look through the windshield at the dserial number tag on the lower drivers side. Torinos started in 1968 and came with a I6 to a 428SCJ. in 1970 they started with 429 and 460. You will most likely find a 302 but it is worth a shot. I currently have 6 Torinos... Enjoy 8*) At 09:57 PM 9/10/00 -0700, you wrote: >in one of our local treasure yards i have come across a ford torino. >it's parked in kinda close to the other cars, so that i cannot get to >the door tag. my question is this: >does anyone have any information concerning engine sizes in the >different years of the torino? the reason i ask is i am aware that quite >a few came with 351c or better. the guy has told me $200 and it's mine, >but i'm only after the engine. > >-- >Andrew Rolfsen >1971 AMC Javelin SST >1968 Mercury Cougar >1966 Plymouth Fury III > > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > > ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: electrical system woes in 79 bronco Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:13:03 -0400 oops--also check all the fuses to the instrument panel(sometimes it s hard to see if they are really blown) -----Original Message----- From: Bob <xavetarx home.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, September 10, 2000 10:10 PM Subject: [61-79-list] electrical system woes in 79 bronco >I just purchased my second 79 Bronco. It's a dream of a truck on the >outside, but when you take a look behind the dash, it's a nightmare. The >electrical system is shot to hell. Here is the list of the things that >aren't working: >turn signals >brake lights >tachometer >fuel gauge >overhead light > >The two things I really need to get working pronto are the turn signals and >brake lights. When I turn the signal arm, it makes the noise as if it is >working. But neither the light in the dash, or outside lights work. As for >the brake lights, well, the lights don't go on when I step on the brake. If >someone could tell me where to start looking to try and diagnose and fix >these problems, I'd be much obliged. > >Thanks, > >Bob > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Slipping 4WD AND Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel B Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:03:53 -0400 Slipping/broken front axle: I had my "new" 79 Bronco up on jack stands today. Doing the regular routine check to make sure everything was working. Well, of course not everything is working, including the front axle. I locked the hubs and spun one tire expecting the drive shaft to turn, and the other tire to rotate in the same direction. Well, to my dismay, it spun like I hadn't locked the hubs at all. I tried (see below) to clean the hubs but I knew that wasn't really my problem because the universal joint in the axle was rotating at the same rate as the wheel. After playing around with it for a bit (spinning it in both directions) it eventually "caught". When I'd stop, it would again "let go" and turn freely. The next step I was going to take was drop the rear drive shaft and see if the front would work being driven by the engine. I'm not sure how a limited slip dif works, but I'm pretty sure I don't have one (or do I?) So this lead me to the differential. I've never opened one of these up before, and don't know if I should.?. If anyone has had something similar happen to them please feel free to tell. Is there a kit I could buy that would fix my problem? I've heard of shimming, but don't know if it's something I'll be able to do correctly. I'm not as naive as I sound when it comes to working on my truck. I've had one 79 for 5 years and have done all the work myself. Thanks to all, bob Front Wheel Bearings: "The culprit that is keeping you from removing the out side gear is a small external snap ring. It resides in the hub it self (not the locking hub..." I did this same thing today, and got just as far. I've done this before on my other 79 Bronco. I had the hub snap ring out, but the piece behind it (with the six bolt holes in it) wouldn't budge. I was positive that all I had to do was put two screws back in, and pull it out. I'm guessing that the hub may be a little bent, and preventing it to slide out. Other than this, I have no clue. This is a big problem for me, because I don't know how I could bang the hub back into shape in order to pull the piece (out locking hub gear?) out. Bob ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:07:16 EDT Subject: Re: Ridges and Reamers I've been watching this thread for some time now. I was trying to keep from commenting. But, if you are taking apart an engine that is going to require boring and new pistons anyway, why for goodness sakes would anyone care if you ream the ridge or not? I have 2 reamers in my tool box and have not used them in 15 years. I used to use them, but after while it became clear this is a complete waste of time. If I go into an engine it is usually by definition going to be bored. Even engines that have very deep ridges sometimes dump the piston right out without tapping. However, if you are intent for what ever reason to reuse the piston then I say you should play with the reamer. Otherwise you are wasting time and money. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Re: Ridges and Reamers Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 20:19:06 -0700 Well the 351M that I rebuilt into a 400 wouldn't "dump" the pistons out. Even after I used the reamer I still had to pound them out with a piece of wood and mallet. The ridge reamer I got on eBay worked very well. I probably could have gone more with it but I was nervous about messing up the bores. BTW I only had to bore the thing out .020 so it wasn't excessively worn. I've never heard anyone else say using a ridge reamer is a waste of time. "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" ----- Original Message ----- From: <SHill48337 aol.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 8:07 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Ridges and Reamers > I've been watching this thread for some time now. I was trying to keep from > commenting. But, if you are taking apart an engine that is going to require > boring and new pistons anyway, why for goodness sakes would anyone care if > you ream the ridge or not? I have 2 reamers in my tool box and have not used > them in 15 years. I used to use them, but after while it became clear this > is a complete waste of time. If I go into an engine it is usually by > definition going to be bored. Even engines that have very deep ridges > sometimes dump the piston right out without tapping. However, if you are > intent for what ever reason to reuse the piston then I say you should play > with the reamer. Otherwise you are wasting time and money. ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Trucks for sale Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:35:02 -0400 i,m in Ashtabula over near the PA. line EAST of cleveland about 60 miles saw the trucks for sale while on my way to detroit mi. i drive truck is why i see all these ones for sale all over the place YEP i know where your town is i think its exit 2 off the turnpike and theres a steel mill around there we deliver to as well gordon ===================================================== > where are you from ? I live about 50 min. west of toledo. Montpelier,Ohio. > -----Original Message----- > From: G & J Boling <flash1 alltel.net>
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Date: Saturday, September 09, 2000 9:44 PM > Subject: [61-79-list] Trucks for sale > > > >today i saw what i think was about a 64 or so f100 out side of TOLEDO OHIO > >on rt 579 east of rt 51 > >ALSO saw what was possibly about a 72 or so in a wrecking yard in DETROIT > >MICH. right next to detroit lime company near the ford river rouge plant if > >any one is interested this one looked to be in pretty good shape except for > >maybe a missing engine and some other small things but the main parts all > >seemed to either be attached or setting on it > >gordon > > > >============================================================= > >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > >Please remove this footer when replying. > > > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > > ------------------------------ From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Slipping 4WD AND Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Whe Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:30:54 -0800 Humm, well with your stuck locking hub, I would bet that is all of your "lack of lock up" problem, or in any case it needs to be fixed so start there. I've struggled with many a stuck hub in the field. One on a friends CJ on the trail in CO just last month. At home in the shop I can use a puller made from a slide hammer and a custom plate attachment that has several hole patterns for different style hubs. A few wacks with the slide and out comes the locking hub. In the field it is a another story, try using a spare set of hub screws, thread them in to the hub, attach a set or two of locking pliers, pry, pull, wedge against the pliers, and hub....... it will eventually come out. Be prepared to install a new (different) set of hubs. After the hub and lock out (or new lock out) are cleaned up real well, re greased, they go back together just fine. Now if you have damaged the hub some how them there is no repairing it as far as I have ever seen.. There not that much, install a new one. Erik Marquez bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78 Home of the BB decal , -----Original Message----- From: Bob <xavetarx home.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, September 10, 2000 7:04 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Slipping 4WD AND Re: Tightening 79 F150 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings >Slipping/broken front axle: > >I had my "new" 79 Bronco up on jack stands today. Doing the regular routine >check to make sure everything was working. Well, of course not everything >is working, including the front axle. I locked the hubs and spun one tire >expecting the drive shaft to turn, and the other tire to rotate in the same >direction. Well, to my dismay, it spun like I hadn't locked the hubs at >all. I tried (see below) to clean the hubs but I knew that wasn't really my >problem because the universal joint in the axle was rotating at the same >rate as the wheel. After playing around with it for a bit (spinning it in >both directions) it eventually "caught". When I'd stop, it would again "let >go" and turn freely. The next step I was going to take was drop the rear >drive shaft and see if the front would work being driven by the engine. I'm >not sure how a limited slip dif works, but I'm pretty sure I don't have one >(or do I?) So this lead me to the differential. I've never opened one of >these up before, and don't know if I should.?. If anyone has had something >similar happen to them please feel free to tell. Is there a kit I could buy >that would fix my problem? I've heard of shimming, but don't know if it's >something I'll be able to do correctly. I'm not as naive as I sound when it >comes to working on my truck. I've had one 79 for 5 years and have done all >the work myself. > >Thanks to all, > >bob > >Front Wheel Bearings: > > "The culprit that is keeping you from removing the out side gear is a >small >external snap ring. It resides in the hub it self (not the locking hub..." > >I did this same thing today, and got just as far. I've done this before on >my other 79 Bronco. I had the hub snap ring out, but the piece behind it >(with the six bolt holes in it) wouldn't budge. I was positive that all I >had to do was put two screws back in, and pull it out. I'm guessing that >the hub may be a little bent, and preventing it to slide out. Other than >this, I have no clue. This is a big problem for me, because I don't know >how I could bang the hub back into shape in order to pull the piece (out >locking hub gear?) out. > >Bob > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: oil filters Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:41:52 -0500 Has any one heard of Motorcraft?????? what would be wrong with closes thing to ford auto zone sell all kinds -----Original Message----- From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, September 04, 2000 7:20 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: oil filters >"G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net> wrote:
>> i was wondering if this was a better filter to use and if it was a >> smaller micron inside of it does anyone know??? > >I've been using Wix 51515's, but recently changed to Baldwin B-2's. >Some truck repair places will tell you that the Fleetguard LF3313's >are even better, but I don't know. I've got one to try, but what am >I gonna' find? More soot? Dunno. I used to use Baldwins some thirty >years ago. Bought 'em by the case from a fleet operator. Then the >distributer went out of business. They were sort of hard to find here >in the Los Angeles area, so I used Fram, 'till I read the Minimopar >document. I even worked for AlliedSignal, and dropped them like a hot, >oil-filled piece of ........ Looked around and found a new Baldwin >distributer. BTW, Hastings is made by Baldwin, as well. If you look >inside a Scamsoil, they look virtually identical, too. (Wonder who >makes 'em for them?) But Fleetguard is (according to those who SHOULD >know) made by Cummins, not vended to them. Gotta wonder, though, why >they would set up a filter line when they could have them made to their >specs by a filter manufacturer. I do like the idea that they come >sealed in plastic shrink-wrap, however. > >My local Napa guy is selling the Napa Wix for about $7.00. I've been >buying the Wix's at a heavy-duty fleet truck repair place for $3.52. >Call around for prices, and consider buying them by the case. They >might be even cheaper that way. > >The Baldwins are $4.13, and the Fleetguards are $4.39 at the fleet >repair places. > >-M- > >Marv Miller mailto:ae722 lafn.org
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