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Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 23:04:04 -0400 (EDT)
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To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #231
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Thu, 07 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 231

In This Issue:
Re: TDR consulting
Vacuum Advance
Re: locked up engine????????????
ADMIN: Ford CEO Jac Nasser announces safety initiatives d
Vacuum adv
Advance
Re: locked up engine????????????
TDC
Re: Firing new motor/knock appeared
Advance
Pull
Re: Advance
L meaning Limited slip
Re: I love junkyards
truck junk yards
Vacuum types
Re: [Fwd: CB Antenna]
Re: Power Steering Gear
Rust issues/ auto wreckers
Re: Advance
Re: Vacuum Advance
Re: Well, I own it!
Re: locked up engine????????????
Re: Advance
Re: Advance
Re: Pull
Re: 400 bottom end saga (long)
Re: I love junkyards.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 17:58:34 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: TDR consulting

At 08:17 PM 9/6/00, you wrote:
>Listfather wrote, in part:
>> Just wanted everyone here to know that I've taken on a
>> temporary consulting job (3-4 months) with the Dodge
>> Turbo Diesel Register web site.
>
>Like everything you've done for us, I'm SURE it will be a first-rate job.
>This should be right up your alley after the terrific site you've created
>around the Ford product line.
>
>Don't do TOO good a job, though.  We'd still like to think we have the BEST.

We do.  And its free.  You have to pay for their site!

>Just the same, it's nice to know that even if they have a GREAT site, a
>FORD GUY created it!  ;-)
>
>And, what the heck, it's genuine INCOME!
>
>-M-
>
>Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
>"Striving to be the person
> that my dog thinks I am".


Currently, their classifieds, news, events, etc are all handled
manually.  I plan to automate it.  Don't worry, I have no plans
to one-up FTE with their site!

Ken



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Vacuum Advance
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 17:10:49 -0500


John LaG. writes:  >>First, the vacuum trees don't actually retard nor advance the timing. They
do change the amount of vacuum signal reaching the distributor diaphragm,
thus changing the amount of timing you would get when compared to being
hooked directly to manifold vacuum. So does less vacuum advance or retard
the timing. Seems to me it would need to advance it on acceleration, but I
know when I pull the hose during tune up (zero vacuum) I have only
mechanical advance from the weights in the distributor. And if I leave the
hose off, the engine will wind up very poorly due to retarded timing
(actually too little advance). OK, time for a definition. Does retarded
timing mean too little advance or firing before TDC? I guess if your advance
was too little, you could be both retarded and advanced at the same time?<<

I understand that the distribution trees located in the water passage don't really
advance nor retard the timing,, but they do distribute the vacuum and that
distribution changes as the coolant temp changes which in turn changes the
timing...

Put a timing light on your vehicles and watch your timing as you suddenly accelerate..
I believe you will notice that the timing marks suddenly become very retarded, then
very smoothly but rather rapidly it will become advanced.  This along with your
accelerator pump in the carb  prevents "bogging" or "hesitation' or whatever you
wish to call it.  The retard of the timing on the crank will be in tune with the sudden drop
in vacuum caused by the sudden opening of the butterflys in the carb...and as the
vacuum rebuilds in  the intake the timing will advance accordingly..All this is on manifold
vacuum.  On the port vacuum, I don't know.  Right???

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: locked up engine????????????
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 18:23:00 -0400

is there anything you can put in the cylinders of a locked up engine(from
> >setting)to loosen it up and then block be bored and reused this is on a
> >flathead i know this is off list topic but you guys seem very
knowledgeable
====================================================
theres some stuff called KROIL made by KANO LABS of Nashville Tenn. they
swear it works on things like this ME i sprayed some bolts just to try it on
something that had not been apart for over 35 years IT WORKED i let it set
for about 1/2 hour and man them bolts twisted out like they were stuck in
there the day before even with the rust on them you could turn them with
your fingers after being broke loose
they have some testimonials if you can beleive them about engines that have
been seized up for years and the stuff sprayed in them and within a hour or
so they could be turned over when before even a 6 ft piece of pipe wouldnt
do it
a friend of mine turned me to it who is a maintence man at a large
fiberglass plant and has used it for many years with good results
i have NO INTEREST at all in this stuff and do not sell it it can be ordered
from them directly if you want to try it with a money back guarantee even I
WISH i wouldve got a gallon can instead of 2 small spray cans tho its
cheaper and you get more
sorry about the long winded post BUT you asked for it
ha ha
gordon


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 18:19:53 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Ford CEO Jac Nasser announces safety initiatives d

Sept. 6 - Ford CEO Jac Nasser announces safety initiatives
during congressional testimony.

Press release is linked off the main page of our site.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Vacuum adv
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 17:18:08 -0500


Wish writes:>>, then when you let
off, the vaccuum "advance" will pull the plate back and retard the timing to
slow the motor down ?  <<

Gotta disagree here!!!  The more vacuum you have applied to the
diaphram, then the more advanced you will see the timing go...l


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Advance
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 17:21:48 -0500


Wish writes:  >>retarded means less than you had a moment ago in this discussion.  Generally
I say its retarded or advanced based on either manuf. reccommendations or based
on what it was previously (ie manuf reccommends 6, but I run 12, my timing's
"bumped" or "advanced", situation b I was running 12, but it was pinging, so
I retarded it to 8 and it finally stopped.  My timing is still over the spec,
so its advanced, but retarded from what it was ... also the cam want's about
14deg of timing so its retarded for the cam too)<<

Actually, advanced means prior to Top Dead Center(TDC) and retarded means
After Top Dead Center(ADC).  I think!!!



Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: locked up engine????????????
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 17:53:17 -0500


Yup, take out the spark plugs and spray or pour in lots of WD-40 or something similar. Let it sit for at least a few hours, then get a big wrench on the crankshaft. Hopefully it bill break loose without too much work.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: wish
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 3:24 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: locked up engine????????????




 >is there anything you can put in the cylinders of a locked up engine(from
 >setting)to loosen it up and then block be bored and reused this is on a
 >flathead i know this is off list topic but you guys seem very knowledgeable

 >of mechanics and I've not got an answer from the pre 48 list.


 There was some discussion of this as related to a 390, the consensus seemed
 to be to soak the pistons in your favorite solution as its usually one or two
 pistons holding up the whole works.  Also if possible you might pull the crank
 then pull the pistons that you can, those left as stuck you can then tap out
 if possible ... if they will pop out the bottom my suggestion was a piece of
 wood being hit with a big heavy hammer, any damage then is to the wood and not
 the piston or block (unless you really miss)

 Just my $.02
 wish

 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
 73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

 Ford Truck Enthusiasts
 http://www.ford-trucks.com
 =============================================================
 To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
 Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: TDC
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 17:53:28 -0500


Wish writes:  >>firing sooner is closer to TDC, so more retarded or less advanced... <<

NO!  NO!!  NO!!  If you are already advanced and you make it fire even sooner,
then it is simply more advanced.  Advanced/Retarded is in relation to TDC...



Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 18:58:04 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: Re: Firing new motor/knock appeared

Hi
the only accessory hooked on the motor is the alternator..and its not in that
area...
I'll see again tomm when i fire it and listen to the botom end....Boy my vacation
is starting off great :(
joe

wish wrote:

> >Well group, I was breaking in the 390 this afternoon, got the timing set
> >and let her run, well 10 mins into the break in a hear a knock, not a
> >constant knock but every 2 to 3 seconds????where should i look????
>
> I had a similar malady with my motor, still don't know what caused it as I think
> it went away in the end.  Intermittent like that and everything sounding good
> in the valvetrain, I'd almost think about something like a p/s pump or one of
> the other accessories you've bolted up to get it running ... as long as you've
> got good oil pressure and no overheating problems, I'm not sure I'd worry about
> it too much (unless its a really bad knock, and not a tick ... if you can tell
> the difference, sometimes its tough)
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
> 73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
> Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> http://www.ford-trucks.com
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Advance
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 18:11:52 -0500


Gary writes:  >>Not typically John.  Your description was correct but it causes advance not
retard.  The vac arm is on the right hand side of the shaft and when it
pulls it causes the pickup plate to move "clockwise" while the shaft is
rotating counter clockwise as you said so you actually get more advance when
you decelerate.  As I said before, with manifold vacuum you have maximum
vacuum at idle and cruise but, of course also when you decelerate since
vacuum is directly proportional to the throttle opening and engine speed so
when you decelerate you have the maximum of both, closed throttle and
relatively high engine rpm.  You can typically hit 25 in under these
conditions.<<

Gary and I agree totally here..   (scary huh???)


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Pull
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 18:14:54 -0500


Jason writes:  >>... I'm gonna guess that my '70 F100 with a 390 and 3.50's will pull better<<

Don't make that bet outside yourself.  Those 460's are monster torque motors.  Not downing the
FE 390's, but I'd think the 460 was more of a puller, even with the 2.75's..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 19:20:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Advance

In a message dated 9/7/00 4:18:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
maggie11 HiWAAY.net writes:

<< Gary and I agree totally here..   (scary huh???) >>

Couldn't be total agreement, dont have any fire and brimstone rainin down!
But I think I'll sleep downstairs tonight, in the truck, just to be safe.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: L meaning Limited slip
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 18:35:19 -0500


Michael writes:>>I have a 3.73 LS differential taken from a 72 F250 and the tag does not
have an "L" on it. The differential is the "2 pinion with LS" (trac-loc)
type rather than the "2 piece case with LS (power-loc).<<

They were speaking strictly of the Ford 9", when they said there is an "L"
between the #'s to indicate a limited slip.  You are correct about the Dana
rears in the larger trucks.



Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 18:56:40 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: I love junkyards

TruckFord Parts in Englewood area of Denver Colorado specializes in 60's
and 70's F Series pickups and 78/79 Broncos.... they are an awesome
contact to have in a serious bind. If you need a # and address I can
probably dig one up.

Laters, Danny Ling


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: truck junk yards
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 20:11:49 -0400


heres another ford only junk yard just for our trucks they most likely have
any part anyone could want
gordon

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ww4.choice.net/~oftc/junkyard.htm


-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: application/octet-stream
-- File: oftc.url



------------------------------

From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 19:10:06 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Vacuum types

Just FYI. there are 3 types of vacuum.
Manifold, Ported and Venturi

Manifold vacuum is taken either in the base of the carburator below the
throttle blades or on the intake manifold. Its characteristics are high
vacuum at idle and it drops to nearly nothing when the throttle blades
are open.

Ported vacuum is taken just above the throttle blades but way below the
venturi's in the carburator. Its characteristics are low vacuum at idle
and as throttle blades open vacuum increases. once the engine reaches
the desired speed and the blades nearly close again the vacuum will once
again drop.

Venturi vacuum is taken just below the booser venturi's inside the side
of the carb barrels. Its characteristics are.... low vacuum at idle.
mild vacuum when the throttle blades open up and as engine speed
increases venturi vacuum increases as well.

If memory serves me right I thought a single line vacuum advance was
hooked to Ported vacuum. but I could be wrong.. I personaly run MSD
ignition that has no vacuum advance so its been a few years since I've
been around it...

Laters, Danny Ling


------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: CB Antenna]
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 19:10:53 -0500

You can go to Radio Shack and purchase/order a 102" stainless steel whip,
the spring, and mounting assembly. The whip is about $20.
Jason

----- Original Message -----
From: Al Evitts <albert brightok.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 1:47 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] [Fwd: CB Antenna]




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 20:16:08 -0400
From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Power Steering Gear

>Hey,
>
>On my 68 3/4 ton Mercury my power steering gear is leaking like crazy, looks
>like around the top end, but it's hard to tell with all the gunk (been
>leaking for a while, but it's getting worse).  A call to my local part store
>lists a Ford rebuilt gear for $200 or a Bendix for $400 (Canadian).  So,
>which one do I need?  Is is possible to rebuild these yourself?

I picked up an aftermarket rebuild kit for about $15 (Canadian!) - the ones
from a Ford dealer list for much more - about $75. You could rebuild it
yourself but I chickened out and took it to a local dealer. They charged me
just the shop rate to do it. Took about 2 hours and set me back about $160
bucks. Plus, it came with their 1 year warranty on the work. What I got
from the couple of mechanics I talked to was that it isn't that hard to
rebuild the box (I just wasn't brave enough to do it with my only 4x4 box)
but what sometimes happens is that shafts can get worn down and even with
new seals it could still leak. When I change the steering box in my 2WD
with the spare I got from the scrapyard, I think I'm going to try
rebuilding the old one. The kit is only $15 and it doesn't matter if I
screw up the box...


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

From: "Mike Mackie" <bigred connect.ab.ca>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 18:30:16 -0600
Subject: Rust issues/ auto wreckers

Well, I guess Alberta isn't exactly the rust free haven for parts that the southern
states are, but I'll definitely take it over eastern Canada/ US. Yessir, there's
nothing like walking into a wrecker with a big can of weasel whiz and a flex
bar, knowing you don't need any more than that to get that set of I-beams, springs
or whatever. Spent seven years in Ontario and that sure gave me appreciation
for a dry climate, not to mention lots of experience on the finer points of
using a gas wrench. By the way, there are a lot of well stocked wreckers here,
if anyone's looking for rare stuff.

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Advance
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 20:46:09 -0700

Technically I believe you are right in that if the spark fires before TDC it
is considered Advanced relative to the crank but not necessarily relative to
the engine's needs.  Some of the earlly 70's engines actually had ATDC
specifications instead of BTDC like most engines we are messing with.  So we
need to define in what theater we are discussing issues :-)

Usually when we say I want to "Advance" the spark we mean make it fire
earlier relative to the crank's rotaton regardless of where it is firing at
right now.  Saying "more Advance" is the same as saying "firing Earlier" in
the cycle.  If the crank is turning clockwise as we look at it and 360 and
Zero are at the top Then relative to the top 350 would be advanced and 5
would be retarded.  If your trigger was at the crank then you would want to
move it Counter clockwise to advance the timing in this case.

More or less timing isn't really appropriate here because it doesn't define
the point of comparison, more advance or more retard???

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Actually, advanced means prior to Top Dead Center(TDC) and retarded means
> After Top Dead Center(ADC).  I think!!!



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 20:49:45 -0700

Ok, I answered this but here is the perfect question for my answer :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> (actually too little advance). OK, time for a definition. Does retarded
> timing mean too little advance or firing before TDC? I guess if your
advance
> was too little, you could be both retarded and advanced at the same
time?<<



------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 home.com>
Subject: Re: Well, I own it!
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 18:43:54 -0700

Model Year: 78
Series: F150 - 4x2 Super Cab Pickup
Engine: 8 Cyl, 460ci (7.5L) 4bbl
Assembly Plant: Kansas City
Transmission: The only information provided is Automatic. My guess is C6
Front Axle: No code selected
Rear Axle: 2.75 3750lb Ford

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
To: "Ford 61-79 list" <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 6:25 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Well, I own it!


>
>    Yesterday I wrote the list and said that I might be trading for another
truck. Tonight, it's mine. It's a '78 F150 Ranger Lariat Supercab with a
four barrel 460, C6, dual gas tanks, a propane conversion, and it's set up
for hauling a trailer (electric trailer brake controller). I traded a $200
motorcycle for it, and I have to throw in another $50. Not bad, huh??
Anyway, it's got a lot of small stuff that needs repaired, so it'll keep me
busy for awhile.
>   I need some help with the vin numbers, though. My Chilton's is useless.
The truck was made in Canada in March of 1978.
> X15JKBG68763 is the vin number
> 139" wheelbase
> 8S is the color
> X150 is the body style
> KBM is the body
> G = tranny
> 13A = axle
> 6050 max gvwr
> DSO 75
>



------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 22:03:30 EDT
Subject: Re: locked up engine????????????

In a message dated 9/7/00 11:36:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
BAMitchell56 excite.com writes:

<< is there anything you can put in the cylinders of a locked up engine(from
setting)to loosen it up and then block be bored and reused this is on a
flathead i know this is off list topic but you guys seem very knowledgeable
of mechanics and I've not got an answer from the pre 48 list.
Thank You
 >>
I've always used lots of diesel fuel.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 22:05:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Advance

Yup! I sure did measure it. Twas a while ago but still holds true since Ive
had the same truck for 16+ years now. One thing I didn't mention in my post
was that Im running ported vacumn (not manifold) to the Dist advance. Thus
the more Ive got the throttles open, the more vacumn (and advance) I get.

Now Im not sure on this one, but the ported vacumn out of the carb I believe
is due to the airflow through the venturies and not the manifold vacumn. I'd
have to hook up dual vacumn gauges and check out that theory. Maybe this
weekend if Im bored and have some spare time.

George M in Fl.


In a message dated 9/7/2000 9:55:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
wish ford-trucks.net writes:

<< Also, when the vacume increases to the advance modulator on the dist, teh

>timing advances.

It does ?  You measured it, or just assuming it from the post above ?

Remember you've got a ton of vaccuum at idle and at deceleration, and very
little
when you're stepping on it, the vaccuum advance is next to useless during
acceleration,
unless its job is to relax and allow the springs and weights to add timing
during
acceleration ... so at high vaccuum states it will pull timing ... when the
power isn't needed/wanted ...
 >>

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 22:13:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Advance

With ported vacumn, it's 0 inches at idle with the throttles closed. As teh
plates open, the vacumn at thsi port increases in a direct relationship to
the throttle plates ie, the more open, teh more vacumn you have at the port
(and the dist if your using it for advance). thus it makes sense to me that
if your at WOT, you have a maximum vacumn (never measured the exact value at
WOT, but my understanding is it's developed from teh airflow through the
venturies. more flow = more vacumn generated in the venturies not the
manifold)  and as you let off the throttle, the value decreases till it
returns to 0 when the plates are closed.

George in Fl.

In a message dated 9/7/2000 10:24:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
wish ford-trucks.net writes:

<<
Also brings up thoughts of ported vaccuum ... when you let off and you're
using
ported vaccuum, doesn't that kill the advance as well ?
 >>

------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Pull
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 21:21:50 -0500

Azie, I hope you're right. That 26' camper is pretty unforgiving. It takes a
lot of the 390's torque to get it rolling. I must admit though-even though
I'm an FE nut, there is a certain thrill in listening to a 460 rumble to
life....
----- Original Message -----
Azie L. Magnusson wrote;

Those 460's are monster torque motors.  Not downing the
> FE 390's, but I'd think the 460 was more of a puller, even with the
2.75's..
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.



------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 22:31:22 EDT
Subject: Re: 400 bottom end saga (long)

I've been inside 2 400's (does that make it an 800?!?) and neither one had an
oil slinger. One I know for sure that I was the first one inside. I remember
some while back that there was some comment about the 335 series not having
slingers by design.

I've also had a dampener with a bad keyway that would rock on the crank. Made
a bang or thud every time I got in or outa the gas! It finaly gave out and
literally shattered on me 4 miles from home. Sheared off the timing key and
everything!

George M in Fl.

That's what I know for what it's worth.

In a message dated 9/7/2000 5:28:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
wish ford-trucks.net writes:

<<
when I took my 360 apart, it had an oil slinger/guard on the crank between
the
spacer and the damper ... of course this FE has a spacer between the timing
gears and the damper as well, but I wonder if that 400 is supposed to have
one,
that could take up that 1/8th" and tighten everything up.  I'd suspect it as
being part of your knock at least ... it really wouldn't be good to have that
flopping around and could cause more damage as well ... as for the thicker
oil
calming it down, is it possible you just didn't put the revs on it with the
thicker oil in to really test it ?
 >>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 21:50:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Valve guides
From: Brett L Habben <bhabben juno.com>

Dave,
Try Goodson Auto Machine Shop Tools and Supplies:  http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.goodson.com
or get their catalog: 1-800-533-8010
Brett
>
>I've got a set of FE heads that are needing new valve guides. <snip>
>I have access to a nice vertical mill, and could accurately ream those
>holes.....my question....anybody ever done this ?  If I'm willing to try
on
>a different set of 360 heads, anybody know of any supplier who would
sell
>the reams as a kit?  The inserts can come locally.....
>Thanks.....
>From: "Dave Emerick" <djemerick hotmail.com>
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Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 22:30:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Locked up engine
From: Brett L Habben <bhabben juno.com>

Barry,
That is a topic of unending debate, where every individual has their own
secret witch's brew.  The old tractor guys swear by olive oil,  the old
outboard guys swear by ATF,  others penetrating oil like Kroil,
kerosene, diesel,  and my favorite; Marvel Mystery Oil.  If you have
time, prop the engine in a position where you can fill the cylinders with
Kroil, and let it soak.  Every couple of days wiggle the crank, watch
each piston to check progress.  Once it'll wiggle even 1/4" you've got it
loose.  Bath the cylinders in ATF, then it's just a matter of wiggling
the crank back and forth increasing the range of motion until it'll turn
completely over.
If this does not work or you need the block NOW, then remove the main and
rod caps and then remove the crank.  Oil a cylinder.  Break the piston
loose by driving the piston down using a BFH and a block of wood.  Scrape
or hone the scaly rust out of the way.  More oil. Then drive the piston
up and out from the bottom using a BFH and wood block against the piston
pin boss.
If the piston still will not come loose, then you may have to resort to
breaking the piston out in pieces by substituting a cold chisel or metal
drift for the block of wood.  The idea is to sacrifice the pistons to
save the block (and rods and crank).
Happy Hammerin'!
Brett
>Is there anything you can put in the cylinders of a locked up
engine(from
>setting)to loosen it up and then block be bored and reused this is on a
>flathead i know this is off list topic but you guys seem very
knowledgeable
>of mechanics and I've not got an answer from the pre 48 list.
>Thank You
>Barry <BAMitchell56 excite.com>

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------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: I love junkyards.
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 00:09:51 -0400

if you want Torino parts-try Buntmans  Torino Parts(I think thats what its
called)  Its up in New  Jersey  if I remember right.If you want the info for
it I will have to look it up in one of my magazines.
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, September 07, 2000 1:29 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: I love junkyards.


>William King <kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu> said:
>>Coincidence?
>>I had to call Classic Ford a couple weeks ago for some Torino parts, but
>>they couldn't help me.  It seems that their personnel problems are serious
>>enough that they can't even check their Ford inventory. Darn shame :-(
>
>I had a problem with Classic Ford. I don't like to ruin a vendor's
>reputation, but I can tell you that several other people from my Falcon
>mailing list had similar problems. I was sent an incorrect fuel pump. They
>refunded my money, but it took 4 phone calls and two months to resolve. And
>to be friendly the first time around, I offered to just exchange the pump
>for other parts, but they were unable to tell me if they had any of the
>other parts I wanted. Not easy to deal with, IMO.
>
>
>>Anyway, as I sat here in work drinking my coffee and reading the beloved
>>FTE digest, I couldn't help but have a day-dream about quitting my job,
>>moving to Maine, and working in the Classic Ford yard.  For a moment
>>it really seemed like a good idea. What an awesome job that would be.
>>Am I the only one who gets excited going to junkyards?  Of course, I was
>>quickly snapped back to reality.
>
>I really like junkyards as well. I had never been to one until about 4
>years ago. They are intimidating to the "outsider" but once you know the
>drill, they are great. The local car yard I go to is a lot less friendly
>than the truck yard. The truck guys will go out of their way to help you
>but the car yard is too busy to care much. Anyway, I went to both yards on
>Tuesday. I went to the truck yard just to look around. :)  I didn't buy ....


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