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Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 16:30:13 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Thu, 07 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 230

In This Issue:
Re: '78 bumper tabs
Re: Exhaust tips for 69 F250 2wd C6 and dual tanks
Re: Thanks and more ?'s
Re: Advance
Re: Ticking Carb Problem Found! I'm a moron!
Re: 300's, 390's and 460's..
Re: Advance
Re: Thanks and more ?'s
Re: Was TRUCK PARTS, NOW:I love junkyards.
Re: oil gauge
Re: 300's, 390's and 460's..
Re: I love junkyards.
Re: Was TRUCK PARTS, NOW:I love junkyards.
Re: 300's, 390's and 460's..
Valve Guides
locked up engine????????????
[Fwd: CB Antenna]
Firing new motor/knock appeared
400 bottom end saga (long)
Plastic Shift Indicator
Re: [Fwd: CB Antenna]
Power Steering Gear
Stalling fix
Re: locked up engine????????????
Re: Firing new motor/knock appeared
Re: 400 bottom end saga (long)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 06:36:31 -0700
From: Don <donr nidlink.com>
Subject: Re: '78 bumper tabs

If these are the same holes on the bumper I am thinking of,they are for a
rod that goes from the bumper to the fender on each side.at least that is
so on my F250 4x4
don
At 04:41 9/7/00 -0400, you wrote:
> >Not to start a fight but I disagree. Ive got a 79 Bronco and have
> notices the
> >tabs also. The one's he's referring to are too far outboard for the bumper
> >guards (which typically mount very close to the frame attachment points).
> >I've used them for some fog lights etc in the past, but have no idea what
> >Ford intended them for. External reinforcement struts maybe?!?
>
>Yep, the bumper guards mount using the regular four holes in the bumper -
>same as a truck that doesn't have the guards. Any extra holes or tabs are
>for something else...
>
>
>David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
>"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
>"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
>"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
>Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 12:49:07 GMT
Subject: Re: Exhaust tips for 69 F250 2wd C6 and dual tanks



>Midas mufflers has suggested a 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" dual exhaust  using a lifetime
turbo muffler and pipes
>exiting
>> behind the rear tires ($325-$350 with new hangers).


>instead of getting the SO CALLED lifetime stuff

Actually Dad's never had a problem getting replacement parts ... usually its
lifetime free replacement, not lifetime warranty, gotta read that stuff closely
... we blew a Midas muffler out 5years after we got it and they replaced it
no questions asked ... Also had great luck getting Walker/Dynomax mufflers replaced
when we needed them ... living in the rust belt makes it happen more often I'm
sure, but the mufflers on my truck have been there (with aluminized pipes) for
6 years or so now and they're just starting to show rust, but aren't leaking
yet, all the noise/exhaust still comes straight out the back ... a year and
a half or so ago I put a new motor in it with decent compression and such and
it hasn't blown em out yet...



> try and find your self some
>stainless steel pipe or tubing and find a shop that will bedn it for you
>then and just get some lifetime mufflers the stainless stell will NEVER RUST


I think we had a discussion a year or so ago about different grades of stainless
and certain ones will eventually rust out ... though the stainless from the
factory on my car seems to be holding up really well, its only 4 years old and
hasn't seen winter in 3 years.

> i had a system done out of it for 200.00 was all a

A friend of mine just had his J**p done with 3" stainless (single exhaust being
fed by a 360) and it looks really good.  They didn't mandrel bend it unfortunately,
but with the 3" initial diameter its not losing enough to really cause problems.
A super-cat and a stainless Borla XR-1 muffler has it sounding just about right
... though its not a sound for everyone ...

I recommend exiting out the back, but only if you don't do a lot of wheeling
... off-road its really embarassing to bury your exhaust in the dirt and choke
the whole system off ... can even kill the motor til you un clog it :(



Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 12:52:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Thanks and more ?'s



>As for the limited
>slip...didn't they stamp the letter "L" in place of the decimal point on the

>portion of the axle tag which displays the ratio to designate a locking axle?

>

I think so, the only way to know for sure though is to jack the vehicle up and
if both wheels turn the same direction its a limited slip ...  another option
to see if its working is to jack up just one and try to take the lug nuts off
without setting the parking brake ... if the truck moves the same direction
you're turning the wheel then you've got a posi, if it moves the opposite then
you've got an open ... just don't roll off the jack ;)



Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 12:56:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Advance


> My question isn't really when is the vaccuum there, its when do you need to

> advance it and when do you need to retard it ?  seems like knowing the
>desireables
> and the vaccuum states we can derive the explanation of the vaccuum advance

> ... but that may just be the engineer in me talkin crazy like ...
>
> anyone got a hand vaccuum pump and a timing light ?  hook that to the dist

>directly
> and see what the timing does as you play with the amount of vaccuum you're

>pulling
> ...
>  >>
>
>Part of my understanding is that the vacume advances teh timing (in
>conjunction to the mechanical advance) to give the fuel additional time to

>burn and reach max pressure as teh piston reaches TDC.

Okay we can go with that theory ...


> Think about it, as the
>engine revs up, the ammount of time the piston takes to reach TDC is shorter

>compared  to idle.

True.

> Well, teh mixture has a basically constant burn time.
>Without and advance, the max cylinder pressure from the fuel burn would be

>reached after TDC giving you a less efficent engine.

Probably not ATDC, but definitely later in the cycle ...

>Also, when the vacume increases to the advance modulator on the dist, teh

>timing advances.

It does ?  You measured it, or just assuming it from the post above ?

Remember you've got a ton of vaccuum at idle and at deceleration, and very little
when you're stepping on it, the vaccuum advance is next to useless during acceleration,
unless its job is to relax and allow the springs and weights to add timing during
acceleration ... so at high vaccuum states it will pull timing ... when the
power isn't needed/wanted ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 13:00:54 GMT
Subject: Re: Ticking Carb Problem Found! I'm a moron!



>Why does this sound like those bumper stickers -- "My other car is a
>mustang" --
>
>Maybe I should get one for this truck that says "My other truck is an FE 390"?

>

I'll take one of each :)


> and when I pushed
>the gas to take off, all I could think of  was "this is it?"   ;-)
>
>Yeah, an FE has got part of my heart, but I'll still take my 300 for work.

>

Hahahaha, I know that feeling ... though today the young lady in the red probe
was thinkin the same thing about her car after passing me in a no-passing zone
... the guy in front of us turned and she just couldn't seem to shake that green
and white 4x4 in her mirror ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 13:05:13 GMT
Subject: Re: 300's, 390's and 460's..

>There simply is no comparison to any
>vehicle I have EVER driven as to the simple G force it exerts when you
>"Ease" down on the gas.......:-)
>

Stop by sometime ... if you time it right like CJ did we'll show you more complex
G forces ... but still stay on the ground.


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 13:26:26 GMT
Subject: Re: Advance

>ALL Fords do this for one very simple reason, timing is almost entirely
>dependent on fuel mixture and rpm.

Wouldn't ALL CARS have to do this then ?

> RPM changes the amount of time the flame
>has to get across the piston top so higher rpm means more advance and fuel

>mixture changes the rate of burn, richer being faster so less advance.

What ?  Maybe I'm the only one who didn't completely follow this, but it left
me going "what?"

Lets break it down a bit more ... "RPM changes the amount of time the flame
has to get across the piston."  Okay, that I understand.

"so higher rpm means more advance"  right ... but that's what the weights that
sling around under the dist. are for right ? Getting advanced based on rpm ..


"fuel mixture changes the rate of burn" okay ... I can buy that... but what
says the mixture changes as the engine revs, wouldn't the jets cause it to be
roughly the same mixture ?

"Richer being faster so less advance"    This part is the part that kills me
... "richer being faster" so more fuel makes the burn quicker ?  So you want
to run less advance during a rich condition ?

>High rpm,  rich mixture means one mitigates the other such as at WOT where

>the vacuum advance is basically out of the loop (less advance) but high rpm,

>lean mixture means you need max advance to burn all the fuel efficiently
>which is what you have when you "Begin" to decelerate where the throttle is

>closed and rpm is high producing both advance triggers, lean mixture and
>high rpm.
>

This makes sense sort of ... though I'm not sure why you have a rich condition,
I mean it shouldn't be excessive anyway, though probably richer than a cruise
condition otherwise the motor wouldn't accelerate...

Frankly we've all agreed that WOT puts the vaccuum portion of the advance out
of the loop, and its back in as soon as you let off, but is it advancing or
retarding when you let off ?  Also what about idle condition ?  on ported it
would have no (or little) effect, just like WOT ... but using manfiold you should
be able to throw a timing light on it and see what happens since you've got
good vaccuum there (unless you've got a massive cam) ... I need to do that anyway
maybe I'll give that a shot when I get home ...

Also brings up thoughts of ported vaccuum ... when you let off and you're using
ported vaccuum, doesn't that kill the advance as well ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Thanks and more ?'s
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 08:53:46 -0700

   I have a 3.73 LS differential taken from a 72 F250 and the tag does not
have an "L" on it. The differential is the "2 pinion with LS" (trac-loc)
type rather than the "2 piece case with LS (power-loc).

   It seems like the axle code on the door tag for a LS differential
contains a letter. I found the previously mention LS in a salvage yard from
looking at door tags. When I found a door tag with a letter in the axle
code, I continued to investigate by spinning one rear wheel  and watching
the other rear wheel spinning in the same direction.

BTW:) A large rubber dead blow hammer works very well for removing a
stubborn differential from a Dana 60 rear end. Pound side to side on the
ring gear to break the differential loose from its housing.

Michael
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

F250> >As for the limited
> >slip...didn't they stamp the letter "L" in place of the decimal point on
the
>
> >portion of the axle tag which displays the ratio to designate a locking
axle?



------------------------------

From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 11:11:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Was TRUCK PARTS, NOW:I love junkyards.

In a message dated 9/7/00 8:32:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu writes:

<< Am I the only one who gets excited going to junkyards?  >>

I LOVE going to junkyards.  You can always find some neato stuff...and I'm
always on the lookout for spare '65-'66 parts.

~Mel
Marietta, GA
1965 F100 Custom Cab
1989 Bronco XLT
ICQ#84544993
Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line...
Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It.

------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 11:42:56 EDT
Subject: Re: oil gauge

In a message dated 09/07/2000 9:36:45 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
donr nidlink.com writes:

<< it is simple on the 351/400 on the back
of the manifold is where the electrical sender is mounted and I just ran a
tee fitting and have both hooked up. >>

Actually it is mounted on the top of the block just behind the rear of the
manifold.

Rollie

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 12:34:42 EDT
Subject: Re: 300's, 390's and 460's..

<<Stop by sometime ... if you time it right like CJ did we'll show you more complex G forces ... but still stay on the ground. >>

Stay on the ground?  Thats no fun!  Seriously, Acceleration G's are cool, But Come over to Vegas after I get my new motor in.  The best part about goin skyward is that moment of airtime, where your not bouncing anymore, just beautifully smooth air.  Almost like liftoff in a small plane.  Followed by Some nasty acceleration G's as you suddenly realize you back on the ground, and you didnt take your foot off the gas.  Wheel spin is equal to about 100 mph, and you were only doin 55.  Thats where a Dana 70 and F-350 driveshafts and U-joints come into play.  I think Im gonna cry, Trucks only been parked a week!  How am I gonna swing this till the trucks done??????????

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 10:23:16 -0400
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Re: I love junkyards.

William King <kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu> said:
>Coincidence?
>I had to call Classic Ford a couple weeks ago for some Torino parts, but
>they couldn't help me.  It seems that their personnel problems are serious
>enough that they can't even check their Ford inventory. Darn shame :-(

I had a problem with Classic Ford. I don't like to ruin a vendor's
reputation, but I can tell you that several other people from my Falcon
mailing list had similar problems. I was sent an incorrect fuel pump. They
refunded my money, but it took 4 phone calls and two months to resolve. And
to be friendly the first time around, I offered to just exchange the pump
for other parts, but they were unable to tell me if they had any of the
other parts I wanted. Not easy to deal with, IMO.


>Anyway, as I sat here in work drinking my coffee and reading the beloved
>FTE digest, I couldn't help but have a day-dream about quitting my job,
>moving to Maine, and working in the Classic Ford yard.  For a moment
>it really seemed like a good idea. What an awesome job that would be.
>Am I the only one who gets excited going to junkyards?  Of course, I was
>quickly snapped back to reality.

I really like junkyards as well. I had never been to one until about 4
years ago. They are intimidating to the "outsider" but once you know the
drill, they are great. The local car yard I go to is a lot less friendly
than the truck yard. The truck guys will go out of their way to help you
but the car yard is too busy to care much. Anyway, I went to both yards on
Tuesday. I went to the truck yard just to look around. :)  I didn't buy
anything. Both old Econolines they formerly had have been crushed. :(

-don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Editor/Internet Director
61 Futura, 66 Club Wagon and classic scooters



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 10:44:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: "D. DiMartino" <grunon yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Was TRUCK PARTS, NOW:I love junkyards.

Thanks for the tip!!  I've been to all the junk yards in the
Portland area and was totally disappointed.  not one grease
monkey knew of any good yards in maine, no surprise.  was going
to start lookin in N.H. and Mass, but now I'm of to Dexter this
weekend if they're open, hope it's as good as it sounds.

Thanks Gordon!


jeeesh
i cant beleive you guys live in MAINE and dont know about one
of the largest
parts yards around who deals STRICTLY with FORDS ONLY
BUT here is the web page for them
www.classicford.com
gordon



=====
Daniel DiMartino
<grunon yahoo.com>
1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4

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------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 16:56:23 GMT
Subject: Re: 300's, 390's and 460's..



><<Stop by sometime ... if you time it right like CJ did we'll show you more
complex G forces ... but still stay on the ground. >>
>
>Stay on the ground?  Thats no fun!  Seriously, Acceleration G's are cool, But
Come over to Vegas after I get my new motor in.

Hahaha, yeah whatever, I'm talkin G's pushing you sideways from your seat ...
I think I can peak at about 1.25, but don't know that I can sustain it for very
long ... doesn't really matter as the curves aren't that long anyway :)

I should borrow the G-tech for my next run, see if I can get a 1.3 instataneous
reading or not ... my truck is probably only a .8 or .7 instantaneous on street
tires ... street tires really make a big difference too, with them 1.1 was the
best I could do, and that was probably a glitch ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Dave Emerick" <djemerick hotmail.com>
Subject: Valve Guides
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 13:10:04 EST

I've got a set of FE heads that are needing new valve guides.  I'd like to
ream out the old guides and install new inserts.  I've checked around on
pricing, and would prefer to save this money for springs, retainers,
keepers, etc.....

I have access to a nice vertical mill, and could accurately ream those
holes.....my question....anybody ever done this ?  If I'm willing to try on
a different set of 360 heads, anybody know of any supplier who would sell
the reams as a kit?  The inserts can come locally.....

Thanks.....
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 11:09:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: BAMitchell56 <BAMitchell56 excite.com>
Subject: locked up engine????????????

is there anything you can put in the cylinders of a locked up engine(from
setting)to loosen it up and then block be bored and reused this is on a
flathead i know this is off list topic but you guys seem very knowledgeable
of mechanics and I've not got an answer from the pre 48 list.
Thank You
Barry





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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 13:47:10 -0500
From: Al Evitts <albert brightok.net>
Subject: [Fwd: CB Antenna]

Message-ID: <39B7164E.1DA5 brightok.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 23:15:11 -0500
From: Al Evitts <albert brightok.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: CB Antenna
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Anyone have and will sell an old style 8 Ft CB antenna, the kind with a
base held on by 3 screws with a big spring on it usually bolted to
bumper.  Does any body know where I can still buy one of these relics?

Thanx   Al


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 14:55:30 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: Firing new motor/knock appeared

Well group, I was breaking in the 390 this afternoon, got the timing set
and let her run, well 10 mins into the break in a hear a knock, not a
constant knock but every 2 to 3 seconds????where should i look????what
should i try..this doesnt sound good for a new motor....I also did the
good old screwdriver to the ear on the valve covers
and she sounds pretty in there..So should i assume bottom end???
joe



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 12:02:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: James Oxley <joxenburger yahoo.com>
Subject: 400 bottom end saga (long)

Hey all, long time no post. Had a problem being able
to post.

 I picked up a bronco from a friend a while ago,
because he totally swamped the truck and the lower end
of the 400 in it was totally wiped with all rod/main
bearings bad (it had been recently rebuilt a couple
months before he bought the bronc). The motor still
ran strong and did not smoke (clattered like crazy
from bad bearings). My friend claims when he drained
the oil, there was no water in it and he was surprised
that the bottom end went away so quick. So I pulled
that engine, put in a .010/.010 reground crank and
bearings and stuffed it in my big white truck. Motor
looked like it had been rebuilt very recently and
heads looked good (very healthy cam in it also). I put
it all together,
checked main/rod clearances and it all looked good. So
after this weekend, about 4 wheeling trips after my
crank install, it is knocking again in the bottom end.
I have not babied it, hitting 4500-5200 RPM for 30
seconds or more in many mud holes :-). It started
knocking when I was close to home, so it was not
driven very far/hard with the knock. I drained oil and
filter and found only a couple drops of oil in filter,
Oil was little over quart low. Oil pressure has been
good with about 50-60 cold and 25 at idle when warm. I
put a full 6 quarts of 20W50 and the knock is almost
gone and oil pressure in now 80 when cold and 40 at
idle when warm, so I pretty much confirmed that the
knock is a bearing (or oil related??). After running
new oil, I pulled new filter and it was full. I pulled
pan and rod bearings don't seem loose. I can still see
decent chamfer on mains from looking at side of them
(the one's I can see). Now for the interesting part.

When I put the motor together, I could not get the
crank pulley to line up with the rest of the pulleys.
I thought maybe there was a different WP, but the WP I
had lined up with PS pump. Also, alt. did not line up
so I assumed it had to be crank pully that was off.
The only way I could get them to line up was use a
small washer that fit inside balancer but effectively
lengthened crankshaft (sorta) and pushed balancer
about an 1/8 inch forward. Seems balancer loosened up
and was banging around. I hope this is my "knock", but
why would it quiet down with more/thicker oil? I took
the crank pully off the balancer and mounted balancer
back
on. It tightens up fine without that extra washer I
had, but pully is still in wrong spot. Balancer PN is
D7TE-BA and then a smaller capital E in a square box
after the A??? No PN on crank pully. Is there more
than one balancer and/or pully or did someone cut down
the end of my crank?? Is balancer supposed to
bottom out on end of crank or is it supposed to push
in until it hits crank timing gear. Without extra
washer I put in, it bottoms out on timing gear and
pullys do not line up. Would crank timing pulley bang
around if balancer is not hitting it? I'm thinking
maybe extar oil crank timing gear quieter. I may have
had 2 knocks, one internal and one external. Could
loose balancer have ruined bearings??

           Any thoughts?


                         OX

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56,
D60/detroit/4.56, 44 boggers, 9" lift
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10,
D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5 SX's, 4"lift
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)


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From: EffieFrd aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 15:05:43 EDT
Subject: Plastic Shift Indicator

Hey Gang,
This is for my brother-in-law, Mike.  He just had Carolina Classics rebuild
an automatic steering column for his '66 F100.  Well, in shipping, the
plastic shift indicator on the column broke.  He called Carolina Classics and
they said that they had used the last one and wouldn't be ordering any more.
Its the clear plastic piece that has "P R N D 1 2" on it.  Anybody know where
I might find one?  TIA.

~Mel
Marietta, GA
1965 F100 Custom Cab
1989 Bronco XLT
ICQ#84544993
Real Racers Drive Straight To The Finish Line...
Those Other Guys Just Drive In Circles Looking For It.

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From: Natp244 cs.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 15:09:39 EDT
Subject: Re: [Fwd: CB Antenna]

In a message dated 9/7/00 1:49:33 PM Central Daylight Time,
albert brightok.net writes:

<< Anyone have and will sell an old style 8 Ft CB antenna, the kind with a
base held on by 3 screws with a big spring on it usually bolted to
bumper.  Does any body know where I can still buy one of these relics?

Thanx   Al >>

If I understand you correctly the three items you want are usually sold
seperately- the antenna, base, and spring.  Anyway, Radio Shack carries the
8' Steel whip antenna (or did until recently) if that's what you want.  I had
one on my 69 Bronco but took it off before I sold it.

------------------------------

From: "Paul Johnson" <pauljohn nortelnetworks.com>
Subject: Power Steering Gear
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 15:04:57 -0500


Hey,

On my 68 3/4 ton Mercury my power steering gear is leaking like crazy, looks
like around the top end, but it's hard to tell with all the gunk (been
leaking for a while, but it's getting worse).  A call to my local part store
lists a Ford rebuilt gear for $200 or a Bendix for $400 (Canadian).  So,
which one do I need?  Is is possible to rebuild these yourself?

Paul



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From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 17:09:54 EDT
Subject: Stalling fix

Just thought you'd all like to know, my chronic stalling problem that I've
had since I bought my truck got solved recently,,,for those of you who don't
remember it would shut off every time i hit a bump or dip in the road and
when you closed the doors or hood,,,but it wasn't a lose wire or bad
connector, it ended up bein that brand new solenoid I put on the thing right
after I bought it,,,seems someone,,not mentioning names (Dad) tightened up
the battery connection too tight and broke the inside connections,,,put the
old one back on hasn't skipped a beat since,,,

79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
True Blue Ford Blue
Ian

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 20:24:42 GMT
Subject: Re: locked up engine????????????



>is there anything you can put in the cylinders of a locked up engine(from
>setting)to loosen it up and then block be bored and reused this is on a
>flathead i know this is off list topic but you guys seem very knowledgeable

>of mechanics and I've not got an answer from the pre 48 list.


There was some discussion of this as related to a 390, the consensus seemed
to be to soak the pistons in your favorite solution as its usually one or two
pistons holding up the whole works.  Also if possible you might pull the crank
then pull the pistons that you can, those left as stuck you can then tap out
if possible ... if they will pop out the bottom my suggestion was a piece of
wood being hit with a big heavy hammer, any damage then is to the wood and not
the piston or block (unless you really miss)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 20:27:25 GMT
Subject: Re: Firing new motor/knock appeared

>Well group, I was breaking in the 390 this afternoon, got the timing set
>and let her run, well 10 mins into the break in a hear a knock, not a
>constant knock but every 2 to 3 seconds????where should i look????

I had a similar malady with my motor, still don't know what caused it as I think
it went away in the end.  Intermittent like that and everything sounding good
in the valvetrain, I'd almost think about something like a p/s pump or one of
the other accessories you've bolted up to get it running ... as long as you've
got good oil pressure and no overheating problems, I'm not sure I'd worry about
it too much (unless its a really bad knock, and not a tick ... if you can tell
the difference, sometimes its tough)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 20:30:10 GMT
Subject: Re: 400 bottom end saga (long)

> Also, alt. did not line up
>so I assumed it had to be crank pully that was off.
>The only way I could get them to line up was use a
>small washer that fit inside balancer but effectively
>lengthened crankshaft (sorta) and pushed balancer
>about an 1/8 inch forward. Seems balancer loosened up
>and was banging around.

>            Any thoughts?


when I took my 360 apart, it had an oil slinger/guard on the crank between the
spacer and the damper ... of course this FE has a spacer between the timing
gears and the damper as well, but I wonder if that 400 is supposed to have one,
that could take up that 1/8th" and tighten everything up.  I'd suspect it as ....


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