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Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 20:44:27 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Wed, 06 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 228

In This Issue:
My Carb Ticks!!!
Re: Advance
Re: Advance
holley/hose routing/pcv help
Intermittent Wipers
Re: holley/hose routing/pcv help
Re: Advance
Re: holley/hose routing/pcv help
Exhaust tips for 69 F250 2wd C6 and dual tanks
67-73 Model Truck Wanted
'78 bumper tabs
Re: '78 bumper tabs
ADMIN: Pictorial update
Re: Rust issues  (Was:  Headlight Adjustment Nuts)
Summit/Ticking carb/EGR vacum
Re: Summit/Ticking carb/EGR vacum
Re: Advance
Re: Summit/Ticking carb/EGR vacum
Re: Exhaust tips for 69 F250 2wd C6 and dual tanks
Re: Summit/Ticking carb/EGR vacum
Re: TDR consulting
TRUCK PARTS
Re: '78 bumper tabs
Ticking Carb Problem Found!  I'm a moron!
Re: '78 bumper tabs
Re: Ticking Carb Problem Found!  I'm a moron!
Re: Ticking Carb Problem Found!  I'm a moron!
Re: TRUCK PARTS
Re: '78 bumper tabs

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 11:55:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Advance
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Really?  Are you sure you're not using ported vaccuum ?

Actually, I am positive that I am running ported vacuum to the distributor.

> Don't forget to plug
> the hole either, a vaccuum leak won't help things :)

Nope, I never forget this either. Whenever I get a poor idle on any vehicle,
the first thing I look for is a vacuum leak.

> Hmmm...that's interesting
> though ... Lemme think about this

Yes, now I am wondering exactly how this sequence of events come to pass.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!



------------------------------

From: "J.X. Schulz" <bdijxs bridgetest.com>
Subject: My Carb Ticks!!!
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 11:08:25 -0600

Hey Tony,

I wonder if this has something to do with the fuel pump pulsating.....maybe
a fuel line regulator would help.....but you know how I am....the electric
pump is better!!!!!!!!!

CJ


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Advance
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 10:42:23 -0700


>
>
> *sniff*  Is this a discussion I smell heating up, or haven't
> they fixed that
> burned out electric motor in the stairway yet?
>

Yes, it looks like a discussion.



<snip of the dual diaphram comments>

>
> >First, the vacuum trees don't actually retard nor advance
> the timing. They
>
> >do change the amount of vacuum signal reaching the
> distributor diaphragm,
> >thus changing the amount of timing you would get when
> compared to being
> >hooked directly to manifold vacuum.
>
> Correct, we also need to note when we have vaccuum ...
> vaccuum is at its peak
> when we let off, ie closed butterflies ... open ones allow
> more air in and less
> pull against the rest of the openings in the manifold ...
> ported will allow
> for odd changes and is less suceptible to spiking like the
> manifold is when
> you let off ... I've not really studied how this ported
> works, but I know its
> different and hard to tune with :)
>
>
> > So does less vacuum advance or retard
> >the timing. Seems to me it would need to advance it on acceleration,
>
> It can't, when you step on the gas (ie acceleration) you
> DECREASE the vaccuum
> signal, hence you get the mechanical advance of the system,
> then when you let
> off, the vaccuum "advance" will pull the plate back and
> retard the timing to
> slow the motor down ?   So its actually a vaccuum retard
> isn't it (and I don't
> mean to insult anyone with that phrase, this is all theory at
> this point) ...
> thinkin out loud from various things I've heard and thought about ...
>

Correct to a point.  Let's look closer.

Steady cruise : Engine produces vacuum close to max
Accelerate
Throttle blade first open : Vacuum drops
Engine speed (airflow) increases : Vacuum increases as airflow
increases
Release throttle to hold new speed : Vacuum increased close to
previous cruise level

Decelerate
Throttle blades close : Vacuum spikes up


<snip about pulling hose for tuneup>
>
> lets try this line to figure it out ... the plate is spring
> loaded, which way
> to the springs load it, advance or retard ?  (depends on
> which way the dist
> turns and i always forget without lookin) ... so whichever
> the springs are doing,
> the vaccuum is doing the opposite right ?

Maybe.  The springs hold the plate to the minimum advance position.   As
motor speed increases the weights move out increasing advance (mechanical).
The vacuum advance unit moves the plate to add advance under high vacuum and
is spring loaded to remove advance under low vacuum (single diaphram unit).


<Snip rest of post>

That is my understanding of things.

Tom H

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 13:01:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Advance
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

Tom wrote:
> The vacuum advance unit moves the plate to add advance under high vacuum and
> is spring loaded to remove advance under low vacuum (single diaphragm unit).

That seems backwards to me. It seems to me you would need more advance on
low vacuum (acceleration) and less advance on high vacuum (deceleration).The
mechanical advance working at cruise makes perfect sense. Hmm....

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 17:20:41 GMT
Subject: Re: Advance



>Tom wrote:
>> The vacuum advance unit moves the plate to add advance under high vacuum
and
>> is spring loaded to remove advance under low vacuum (single diaphragm unit).

>
>That seems backwards to me. It seems to me you would need more advance on
>low vacuum (acceleration) and less advance on high vacuum (deceleration).The

>mechanical advance working at cruise makes perfect sense.

That's what I'm thinkin too John ... also it seems like the vaccuum advance
would be pulling, which is the same way the springs pull isn't it ?  so it would
seem that the vaccuum is used to pull some of the advance out of the mechanicals
when you let off from a cruise situation ... but what about idle conditions,
wouldn't it pull a bit too much ?  though I suppose ported vaccuum wouldn't
pull any out at idle ... idle's also so erratic in the combustion chamber its
amazing a motor can idle at all ...

My question isn't really when is the vaccuum there, its when do you need to
advance it and when do you need to retard it ?  seems like knowing the desireables
and the vaccuum states we can derive the explanation of the vaccuum advance
... but that may just be the engineer in me talkin crazy like ...

anyone got a hand vaccuum pump and a timing light ?  hook that to the dist directly
and see what the timing does as you play with the amount of vaccuum you're pulling
...

Shoot, just gave Dad back his 62 Motors manual that might've had some insight....
Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 13:43:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Advance
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> My question isn't really when is the vaccuum there, its when do you need to
> advance it and when do you need to retard it ?  seems like knowing the
desireables
> and the vaccuum states we can derive the explanation of the vaccuum advance
> ... but that may just be the engineer in me talkin crazy like ...

Maybe I'm cut from some of the same cloth. I have, however, remembered some
old experiences. The main one is that when vacuum increases, the diaphragm
does indeed pull. Henry's distributor turns clockwise and the arm from the
diaphragm enters the housing so that when vacuum is applied, the arm pulls
the plate where the pickup coil (points on non-electronic ignition) is
sitting counter clockwise causing less advance or if you want, retardation.
I conclude that when you decelerate, the vacuum increases and the timing
advance decreases from where it was.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 15:31:09 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: holley/hose routing/pcv help

Hello all,

can somebody give me some direction on which hoses go where on a 600 cfm
holley.. on the pass side I have 2 small ports one underneath near the
front of the carb, one on the side(meetering block) i think and then a
large one on the side near the rear of the carb...I also need to hook up
a PCV system to this 390...but the
factory spacer on the carb does not have an opening for the hose to
connect?????


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 18:46:48 GMT
Subject: Intermittent Wipers

Okay guys, hopin you can help me out.  I'm trying to get intermittents on my
73ish, and know that I can use a governor and switch from a later model.  I've
got the switch, but don't have the governor yet.  There's a guy parting out
a Bronco who has the governor, but can't seem to find it (intermittents worked
when he took it apart), the part number he comes up with is :

E8TB-7E453-AA   but his description isn't the same as the one pictured on a
How To: we have and looks different than the one I put in my sister's 91.


I called Ford and they gave me the part number :

E9TZ-17C476-A

I'm inclined to think that since the numbers in the middle don't match that
he's not looking at the right part ... anyone know for sure if they did change
the part number that much or not ?   I'm sorry I don't know the year of the
Bronco, but its a late 80's/90's model.


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 19:03:08 GMT
Subject: Re: holley/hose routing/pcv help

>can somebody give me some direction on which hoses go where on a 600 cfm
>holley..

Maybe, that's what's sitting on my truck :)


> on the pass side I have 2 small ports one underneath near the
>front of the carb, one on the side(meetering block) i think

The front one is ported vacuum for the advance (if you have elec. ignition,
if not, try that and manifold and see which one it operates better with) ...
the one on the side could be manifold vac, though I don't remember right now,
it may also be used for opening vents in the air intake after the vehicle has
warmed up, I don't remember, I'll have to look .

> and then a
>large one on the side near the rear of the carb...I also need to hook up
>a PCV system to this 390...

You can likely hook the PCV up to this port, unless you've got power brakes,
then of course you should probably hook them up there ... or if they hook to
the manifold vaccuum Tee then the pcv can come from the back of the carb ...



> but the
>factory spacer on the carb does not have an opening for the hose to
>connect?????
>

Bummer, any vaccuum source should work though ... I'm not sure you need full
manifold vac for PCV, but with the valve in good working order it shouldn't
matter too much.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 19:15:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Advance

>The main one is that when vacuum increases, the diaphragm
>does indeed pull.

That would be logical without some major plumbing inside a simple looking device
:)

> Henry's distributor turns clockwise

OKay ... I'll buy that ...


> and the arm from the
>diaphragm enters the housing so that when vacuum is applied, the arm pulls

>the plate where the pickup coil (points on non-electronic ignition) is
>sitting counter clockwise

Alright so its moving counter to the motion of the dist right?

>causing less advance or if you want, retardation.

Wouldn't moving the plate counter to the rotation cause an advanced conidition
?  Too bad I'm stuck to ascii, but if you have a point that you watch, say the
rotor, go around, and you move from point A at say 90 Deg of rotation to a point
counter clockwise from there (B), wouldn't that be <90deg of rotation, so it
would fire sooner ... which would be retarded, you're right, its counter-intuitive
... firing sooner is closer to TDC, so more retarded or less advanced...

>I conclude that when you decelerate, the vacuum increases and the timing
>advance decreases from where it was.
>

Sounds about right then ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: holley/hose routing/pcv help
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 14:40:37 -0700

> can somebody give me some direction on which hoses go where on a 600 cfm
> holley.. on the pass side I have 2 small ports one underneath near the
> front of the carb, one on the side(meetering block) i think and then a
> large one on the side near the rear of the carb...I also need to hook up
> a PCV system to this 390...but the
> factory spacer on the carb does not have an opening for the hose to
> connect?????
~~~~~~~~~~

   The small fitting on the passenger side of the primary metering block is
for the distributor vacuum advance.

   The 3/8" fitting at the base of the carb near the rear passenger side is
for your PCV system. A hose (rated for use with fuel) should lead from this
fitting to a valve cover cap that has a PCV valve installed into the cap.

   Your other valve cover cap should have a 5/8" fitting with hose leading
to your air cleaner.

Michael



------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Exhaust tips for 69 F250 2wd C6 and dual tanks
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 15:30:35 -0700

   What would recommend placing behind a set of full length Hooker
competition headers (#6903) in a 69 F250 with 390 4V?

   Midas mufflers has suggested a 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" dual exhaust (crossover
pipe was never mentioned), using a lifetime turbo muffler and pipes exiting
behind the rear tires ($325-$350 with new hangers).

   What say ye?

Michael
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/



------------------------------

From: David Painter <dpainter aperian.com>
Subject: 67-73 Model Truck Wanted
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 16:26:30 -0500

I am looking for a good running fixer upper 67-73 short bed truck.  I live
in Austin, TX and would prefer buying something within a 100 mile radius.
If anyone can help. I would appreciate it.  Thanks






------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: '78 bumper tabs
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 21:57:38 GMT

I recently put a '78 bumper on the front of my pickup and noticed that it
has two tabs with square holes on the bottom side.  They are underneath and
can't be seen except from under the truck.  What were these for?  Was there
some factory option that they were used for?

Just curious.

Marty
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
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------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 18:07:01 EDT
Subject: Re: '78 bumper tabs

Marty:

   I believe these are for the chromed bumper protectors that mount
vertically on either side and have a black rubber pad attached to it.  I have
a set on a 72 F-100 Explorer I'm parting out.

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 18:46:30 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Pictorial update

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Picture Gallery additions:

1983 Bronco, 1973 F-100 and 1962 F-100.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 19:11:00 -0700
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Rust issues  (Was:  Headlight Adjustment Nuts)

Hi Tom. I'm about 1.5 hrs north of Portland. A good buddy of mine (also an old
Fordaholic) lives in Gorham. There's no yards up here for 73-79. Like you said
they don't go back that far. I have 4 trucks, 75-78 for parts. If there's
sumthin ya need, let me know off list, I might have it or my buddy Jimbo might.
I plan in the future, when my garage is done to buy up some junkers and part em
out. Later ...

Gregster
'77 F-250 Explorer 4x4

"Hogan, Tom" wrote:

> Greg,
> Where in Maine?  I'm outside Portland.  Got any good sources for used 73-79
> parts?  Don't give up any secrets but I can't/haven't yet found a yard that
> goes back that far.
>
> Tom H.
> 76 F-150 Supercab
> >
> > We have a Salt City here too called the State of Maine. I have a few
> > specimens in the bone-yard to prove it ... lower half of cabs
> > and spring
> > hangers rusted right off with only half the original size
> > bolts remaining.
> > Yes, I do own a big smoke wrench!
> >
> > Gregster
> > '77 F-250 Explorer 4x4
> <Snip previous posts>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 16:24:32 -0700
From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Summit/Ticking carb/EGR vacum

>>thats the nice thing about SUMITT they will refund your money no questions


Got my Heddman headers from Summit and one was warped.I assumed
I would have to  pull both them both off and return the set in the box
etc.
I called them up and they told me I only have to bring the bad one in
and they would open a set and give me a new one.Saved me alot of
trouble.

>>The place it feels like it's ticking the most is on top right where
 there are two little dime sized plates held down with torque head
screws
 between the primaries and secondary openings.

The metering rods are under those caps.Can't imagine why they are
ticking tho..To check them, loosen (but don't remove)the screws and turn
the plate
far enough to remove the rods springs etc.It's no big deal if you  take
the screws all the way out but they are dinky screws and if you don't
take them out you can't lose them:)

My question is,does the EGR hose go to manifold or ported vacum?

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Summit/Ticking carb/EGR vacum
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 19:47:27 -0400


> My question is,does the EGR hose go to manifold or ported vacum?
> =============================================================
goes to the manifold vacuume
gordon


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Advance
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 19:41:42 -0700

Not typically John.  Your description was correct but it causes advance not
retard.  The vac arm is on the right hand side of the shaft and when it
pulls it causes the pickup plate to move "clockwise" while the shaft is
rotating counter clockwise as you said so you actually get more advance when
you decelerate.  As I said before, with manifold vacuum you have maximum
vacuum at idle and cruise but, of course also when you decelerate since
vacuum is directly proportional to the throttle opening and engine speed so
when you decelerate you have the maximum of both, closed throttle and
relatively high engine rpm.  You can typically hit 25 in under these
conditions.

There was a reverse vacuum diaphram system on some models in the 70's but
they didn't last too long.  Now, of course, they don't even have vacs on
them, it's all computer stuff and the vac input is via a transducer or
sensor instead.

Except for a few of those wierd 70's versions you get advance with vacuum
and retard when vacuum goes down or manifold pressure goes up toward
ambient.  You are right though, once you have a clear picture in your mind's
eye you can guestimate what you need to do to get the desired results :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

knowing the
> desireables
> > and the vaccuum states we can derive the explanation of the vaccuum
advance

> the plate where the pickup coil (points on non-electronic ignition) is
> sitting counter clockwise causing less advance or if you want,


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Summit/Ticking carb/EGR vacum
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 17:03:38 -0700

If you hook the EGR to a manifold vacuum source, the engine will run rough
or die at idle.  It should be hooked to ported vacuum.  The EGR should not
be working at idle or WOT.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD

----- Original Message -----
From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 4:47 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Summit/Ticking carb/EGR vacum


>
> > My question is,does the EGR hose go to manifold or ported vacum?
> > =============================================================
> goes to the manifold vacuume
> gordon
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust tips for 69 F250 2wd C6 and dual tanks
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 19:57:34 -0400

Midas mufflers has suggested a 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" dual exhaust (crossover
> pipe was never mentioned), using a lifetime turbo muffler and pipes
exiting
> behind the rear tires ($325-$350 with new hangers).
> Michael
=============================================================
HI
instead of getting the SO CALLED lifetime stuff try and find your self some
stainless steel pipe or tubing and find a shop that will bedn it for you
then and just get some lifetime mufflers the stainless stell will NEVER RUST
and it will never need to be messed with again EVER these so called
warrantys are okay but they never figure you will keep a vehicle more than
10 years max before getting rid of it ALL steel will rust unless its
stainless sooner or later i had a system done out of it for 200.00 was all a
couple of years ago and could have gotten it cheaper if i would have thought
to buy my own pipe before hand at a local scrap yard for pennies a pound
gordon


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Summit/Ticking carb/EGR vacum
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 20:03:53 -0400




> If you hook the EGR to a manifold vacuum source, the engine will run rough
> or die at idle.  It should be hooked to ported vacuum.  The EGR should not
> be working at idle or WOT.
> Jason
================================
thats right i was thinking of the PCV
gordon>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 17:17:31 -0700
From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: Re: TDR consulting

Listfather wrote, in part:
> Just wanted everyone here to know that I've taken on a
> temporary consulting job (3-4 months) with the Dodge
> Turbo Diesel Register web site.

Like everything you've done for us, I'm SURE it will be a first-rate job.
This should be right up your alley after the terrific site you've created
around the Ford product line.

Don't do TOO good a job, though.  We'd still like to think we have the BEST.

Just the same, it's nice to know that even if they have a GREAT site, a
FORD GUY created it!  ;-)

And, what the heck, it's genuine INCOME!

-M-

Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: TRUCK PARTS
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 20:37:08 -0400

Got any good sources for used 73-79
> parts?  Don't give up any secrets but I can't/haven't yet found a yard
that
> goes back that far.
>
> Tom H.
=========================================================
jeeesh
i cant beleive you guys live in MAINE and dont know about one of the largest
parts yards around who deals STRICTLY with FORDS ONLY
BUT here is the web page for them
www.classicford.com
gordon


------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 20:40:33 EDT
Subject: Re: '78 bumper tabs

In a message dated 9/6/2000 5:08:02 PM EST, TBeeee aol.com writes:

<<  I believe these are for the chromed bumper protectors that mount
vertically on either side and have a black rubber pad attached to it.  I
have
a set on a 72 F-100 Explorer I'm parting out.

Thom >>
   Hey Thom, aren't those for the bumper jack ??

  Steve

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 20:40:26 -0400
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Ticking Carb Problem Found!  I'm a moron!

Well, Tonight I decided to figure out just why my truck runs like crap the
whole 1/2 hour drive home, why the carb ticks, and why I had to go into
creeper gear to get up some hills because it was seriously lacking
power.   Well, I found out, and it comes down to be being a total and
complete moron.

So I get the truck home by the grace of God, driving into the sun on a
chipped & tarred backround directly into the sun having to hang my head out
of the side window and listen to my open pipe exhaust because I can't see
through the antifreeze covered windshield.   After getting it home, I start
to tear into it-- first thing is an oil change, hook up the gauges, and
replace all plugs, wires, cap, rotor etc thinking it might just be a burnt
out wire.

While I was at it, I decided to pull off the carb and clean it out-- I had
run year and a half old gas in it when I fired it up, with no fuel filter
(yeah yeah yeah) and figured I'd have that carb all filled with gunk and
besides, I've never had a carter 4 barrel carb apart before.   All I knew
was that 390 cfm holley piece of crap I bought brand new was the most
leaky, ridiculous pain in the butt I had ever dealth with.  Out of the box
this carter was perfect, even with my application on the 300 motor.

So I pull the metering rods out, check them out, pull the top plate of the
carb off, check that out, and curiousity got the best of me while I
COMPLETELY took that carb apart and cleaned each piece.  Those are the
simplest, awesome designed carbs as far as I'm concerned.  There was hardly
any grime or dirt in it at all, even after using it for 3 years.

Well, I put it all back together, fire up the truck hoping the problem
would be gone.   NOPE.  Ticking like mad, and still running like
crap.   Ok, time to pull the valve cover and just see what's going on..
it's easier to do that than the other option of pulling the intake/exhaust
manifold 3 piece dual setup I have.

As soon as I pulled the valve cover, I saw the whole problem.   A rocker
was jammed turned about 15 or so degrees to the right and holding an intake
valve completely open.  I started the motor and watched, and it never
moved.  I pulled the rocker off the valve (uncompressing the spring) and
lifted out the mangled pushrod.   Then,  figuring what had happened was
that a lifter was screwed somehow, I pulled the side inspection plate off
and noticed the lifter wasn't down all the way in it's hole and was
clipping itself on the block.   I pushed it a littel to the side and
"PLICK" it fell right in...  presto- put pushrod into a vice, bent it
straight, and put it all back together to have a perfectly good running truck.

now the only question is:  Did it do any valve damage.. 8-(

Score one for stupidity-  Thank you all for your help- this was a great
learning experience!

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com


------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 20:44:54 EDT
Subject: Re: '78 bumper tabs

Hey Steve:

   Bumper jack locating holes you say, huh?   You could be right.  If I'm
wrong then it serves me right for posting on something I don't know anything
about. :-)

Thom
1967 F-Series Registry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

In a message dated 9/6/2000 8:41:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
WEDIVE247 aol.com writes:

>     Hey Thom, aren't those for the bumper jack ??

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 20:50:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Ticking Carb Problem Found!  I'm a moron!

Do yourself a favor and replace that pushrod, It most likely bent do to
playing with the hotrod you built, and it will happen again without a doubt
on that now weakened pushrod.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Ticking Carb Problem Found!  I'm a moron!
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 20:07:42 -0500


I agree, might as well get a new set of pushrods.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 7:50 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Ticking Carb Problem Found! I'm a moron!


 Do yourself a favor and replace that pushrod, It most likely bent do to
 playing with the hotrod you built, and it will happen again without a doubt
 on that now weakened pushrod.

 Darrell & Tweety
 =============================================================
 To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
 Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 21:18:05 -0700
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: TRUCK PARTS

Well ... Nope ... I didn't know about them. And they're only 20 miles from
here!!!  Guess I don't get out enuff! Thanks for the info Gordon

Gregster
'77 F-250 Explorer 4x4


>
> =========================================================
> jeeesh
> i cant beleive you guys live in MAINE and dont know about one of the largest
> parts yards around who deals STRICTLY with FORDS ONLY
> BUT here is the web page for them
> www.classicford.com
> gordon
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: '78 bumper tabs
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 21:45:35 -0400

NOPE i dont think they are for the jack
they came with a little screw jack mounted on the drivers side fender well
to use under the frame
mine still had the oem one on it untill a year ago that had never been
removed
gordon




> Hey Steve:
>
>     Bumper jack locating holes you say, huh?   You could be right.  If I'm
> wrong then it serves me right for posting on something I don't know
anything
> about. :-) ....


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