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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 19:57:34 -0400 (EDT)
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61-79-list Digest Tue, 29 Aug 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 218

In This Issue:
Re: wiring/firing motor/duraspark
Re: roblem with firing motor
Re: roblem with firing motor
Re: compression
65-66 Cab Mounts
Re: '74 F250 Brakes
Re: Balancing
Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
Re: roblem with firing motor
Re: roblem with firing motor
Re: '74 F250 Brakes
Re: roblem with firing motor
Re: roblem with firing motor, Friday...
Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
Re: '74 F250 Brakes
ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!was not firing
Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
new 390 pix
390 Pix
Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
Re: new 390 pix
Re: new 390 pix
Shipping engines
Which carb/Balancing?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: wiring/firing motor/duraspark
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:12:41 -0400

> Also the white wire..it says to connect to the "S" terminal if i
> remember right, but when i do that and fire the motor the
> engine cranks on its own, if i remove the white
> wire it stops cranking??????
> Where am i going wrong

The "S" terminal ?
If I recall correctly, when the "S" terminal on the solenoid has
voltage, it closes the switch and cranks the starter.  Maybe
the wire goes to the "I" terminal on the solenoid instead ?
Some solenoids do not have the "I" terminal; I'm not sure
what it does, but in my Bronco, i replaced one of the "I" terminal
solenoids with one that doesnt have one, and haven't noted
any problems because of it.  Maybe it does nothing but have
some voltage while the ignition switch is on ?


------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: roblem with firing motor
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:16:46 -0400

> to break in the motor....I am getting spark and fuel and the motor will
> fire but I cannot keep it running???I am moving the Dist. to try to get
> some timing and she just
> wont stay running????

Check for vacuum leaks, bad plugs, bad plug wires,
dirty or moist distributor, proper firing order, and
proper timing (including checking to see if your dist
is 180 degrees off).


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:24:30 -0400
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: roblem with firing motor

I hate to say this, and I speak from experience, and I spent 7 hours one
day trying to get my 390 started because of this:

Do you have your spark plug wires on in clockwise order direction, when you
should have them in counter clockwise direction from #1?

I had the distrib in right, I had the wires on in the right order, but I
failed to put them on in the right rotating direction, and I got it to
fire, burble and die, and It took a chebbie brother-in-law to point it out.

A total disgrace for me, but if my faults help others..  ;-)

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com



At 11:08 8/28/2000 -0700, you wrote:
>how long does the engine run before dying?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe [mailto:shoman p3.net]
>Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 8:26 AM
>To: ford trucklist61-79
>Subject: [61-79-list] roblem with firing motor
>
>
>GRoup
>Well i fixed my fuel problem on my 68 390 with a new fuel pump..Now its
>time
>to break in the motor....I am getting spark and fuel and the motor will
>fire but I cannot keep it running???I am moving the Dist. to try to get
>some timing and she just
>wont stay running????Its a 68 390 converted with duraspark..Where should
>
>i start???
>Joe
>68 F-100 4x4 390(Just rebuilt),c6,dana 44 w discs ,dana 60..She wants to
>run :)
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 07:41:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: compression

Tony,

One thing to check that I forgot in the last message.
If the low cylinders are adjacent, then I may only be
a blown head gasket.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V

> Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 21:52:41 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: : compression
>
> Tony,
>
> It is definitly time for a valve job at least. I'll
> bet the idle is rough. You have to squirt a little
> oil
> in the low cylinders and see if they come up. If the
> do, then it is rings. Otherwise probably just
> valves.
>
> Dan Lee
> '53 F100
> 400C-4V
>
> >
> > Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 13:47:18 -0600
> > From: "William Whited (Tony)"
> > <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
> > Subject: compression
> >
> > I'm looking at a 74 truck that has a 460 and
> engine
> > compression is
> > between 90 and 145.  Do you guys think it is a
> > problem?  The engine has
> > around 115,000 miles on it.  TIA
> >
> > --
> > William (Tony) Whited
> > 74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390
> > 77 F150 Custom 460
> > El Paso, TX
> > Semper Fi
> >
> >


__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 07:59:08 -0700
From: Brian Koss <bkoss mail.arc.nasa.gov>
Subject: 65-66 Cab Mounts

I am cleaning up all the parts left over from piecing two cabs together to
make one real nice one. If anybody can use the cab mounts for a 65-66 let
me know off line. They are free you pay shipping. I also have two good cab
corners



------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 visteon.com>
Subject: Re: '74 F250 Brakes
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:25:09 -0400

The brake linkage under the power brake module is the culprit.  There is a
bell crank under there that rusts and needs to be cleaned occasionally and
relubed.  You can pull the whole MC/booster off together and you will see
what I mean.  The pins (bellcrank pivots) can be removed for cleaning and
lubed and replaced.  You will wonder how they even worked once you get this
done :-)  Pay close attention to the way it was bolted in the booseter frame
though because if you get it in backward it will be really wierd.  I
typically have to take them apart a couple of times to get all the stuff
back right :-) (Old memory don't work so good)

This is especially true of a truck that sits a lot.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary

--

> pedal does not return all the way back to the top, causing the brake
> lights to stay on.


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Balancing
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:28:56 -0400

I rebuilt a 4 banger once and found that the new pistons were heavy enough
that it had a serious vibration in it, one of my first attempts at this.  My
feeling now is that it is a good investment as long as the shop knows what
they are doing.  When you figure out how to determine that before the fact
let us know, you could become rich.....

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> rebuilds I've done, I've never had them balanced, either due
> to cost (a
> couple weren't for me), or application, and have never had
> any problems with
> breakage, vibration, or fracturing of parts (one was a 351W,
> and was beat on
> pretty hard). Wondered if the cost justify's the expenditure

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:30:56 -0400
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question

Do they make a glue or something to hold your valve stem seals to the head
surface so they don't ride up and down on the valve stem as it actuates?

I'm redoing the head on my 300 and it's very apparent that my blue smoke
was coming from the valve stem seals.  About 1/2 of them don't slide on the
stems, but rather ride up and down with the valve through it's motion
inside the spring.  With taking it apart and a little force, I can unstick
the seal, and snap it back down on the head, oil it up, and it'll allow the
valve to slide once again without the seal moving from where it should stay.

The force in which the seals snap down on the head is hardly any at all,
and I figure it won't be long before they start to go for a ride with the
valve stem once again.   Does anybody know what I'm talking about, and what
is the solution?

Thanks-

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 visteon.com>
Subject: Re: roblem with firing motor
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:34:40 -0400

Pull the black plugs apart that go to the dizzy and module, put silicone
grease in them and plug them back together and unplug them a few times.
Almost bet a week's pay that'll do it, next week's pay that is :-)


Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary

--

> Its a 68 390 converted with duraspark..Where should
> >
> > i start???

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:35:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Does anybody know what I'm talking about, and what
> is the solution?

I know what you are talking about. This is a common problem with a lot of
engines, not just Ford. As for the solution, a very small stainless steel
clamp on each seal? I'm just joking.......

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 visteon.com>
Subject: Re: roblem with firing motor
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:36:00 -0400

This too is a possibility.....ran into it myself once....

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary

> in the harness.  The red and white wires go to the run and start
> functions on the switch.  You probably have them reversed so when you

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 10:37:19 -0500
From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: Re: '74 F250 Brakes

I dont think mine has the bellcrank, just a straight shaft from the back of the
booster, that attaches to the brake pedal. Is there some adjustment to the
length of that rod?

Howardb

"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote:

> The brake linkage under the power brake module is the culprit.  There is a
> bell crank under there that rusts and needs to be cleaned occasionally and
> relubed.  You can pull the whole MC/booster off together and you will see
> what I mean.  The pins (bellcrank pivots) can be removed for cleaning and
> lubed and replaced.  You will wonder how they even worked once you get this
> done :-)  Pay close attention to the way it was bolted in the booseter frame
> though because if you get it in backward it will be really wierd.  I
> typically have to take them apart a couple of times to get all the stuff
> back right :-) (Old memory don't work so good)
>
> This is especially true of a truck that sits a lot.
>
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>
> --
>
> > pedal does not return all the way back to the top, causing the brake
> > lights to stay on.
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:50:17 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski <theodore ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: roblem with firing motor

At 11:34 AM 8/29/00 -0400, you wrote:

>  next week's pay that is :-)
>
>
>Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
>78 Bronco Loving, Gary

        Sounds like someone's real close to getting out alive !!!!!!!!!!!!
(read: retiring)

Ted Wnorowski  Flat Rock, OH
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wnorowski.com/
mailto:theodore ford-trucks.com
' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed
' 63 F-100 parts truck
' 66 F-250 352 4 speed flatbed










------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 visteon.com>
Subject: Re: roblem with firing motor, Friday...
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 12:01:08 -0400

Two days and I'm not even counting any more, saving my energy for Friday
when It will benefit the right parties :-)


Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary

>          Sounds like someone's real close to getting out
> alive !!!!!!!!!!!!
> (read: retiring)

------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 12:05:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question

In a message dated 08/29/2000 11:31:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
redneck raex.com writes:

<< Do they make a glue or something to hold your valve stem seals to the head
surface so they don't ride up and down on the valve stem as it actuates? >>

Those seals are not designed to stay put on the head. They are called
umbrella seals. They are designed to ride up and down with the valve stem.
The reason they can't stay put is because of the taper of the valve guide
boss of the head casting. I have never heard of anyone gluing those seals
down. I would think the seal will wear out from doing this.

They make some better seals to solve this problem. There are some made of
graphite with a metal collar that is installed on the boss of the head where
the valve guides are installed. It requires machine work to use them. If all
new valve guides are used, then these seals are pressed onto the top of the
new valve guides. If the heads have the original valve guides then the heads
require machine work to use these seals.  They don't move with the valve.
They stay put and the valves move through them.

I have some installed on a 351 Cleveland. It is yet to be seen if they are
that much better. I was told that these seals allow more clearance when using
high lift cams or double or triple valve springs though.

There are some made out of Teflon with a spring like metal collar. They also
require the heads to be machined unless all new valve guides are installed
already. These seals are known the come apart at high revs or after years of
use.

Hope this helps,
Rollie H. Hunt

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 visteon.com>
Subject: Re: '74 F250 Brakes
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 12:36:10 -0400

Most, apparently, are adjustable.  The ones I've seen were.  If it is just a
straight rod then the pivot the brake pedal is on could be rusted but the
78's have a plastic bushing in there so they simply don't hang up in that
spot.  Some older trucks actually had return springs on the pedal itself so
that is something to investigate too and if it is on the same shaft as the
clutch pedal other issues come into play.


Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary

--

> I dont think mine has the bellcrank, just a straight shaft
> from the back of the
> booster, that attaches to the brake pedal. Is there some
> adjustment to the
> length of that rod?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 13:26:31 -0400
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!was not firing

A big thanks to all that helped with my 390 Duraspark Firing problem
it came down to the darn white wire...My 390 is currently breaking in as
we speak..
Boy she sounds good with the Flowmasters..Its killing me ,that I cant
give her some
more throttle to hear her roar...Well 500 miles wont be that
long....thanks again
Joe
68 F-100 4x4 390/C-6,dana 44 with discs...
"Time to Get the WEb Site Back up and Updated"



------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 17:27:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question

>Those seals are not designed to stay put on the head. They are called
>umbrella seals. They are designed to ride up and down with the valve stem.



Wouldn't that let oil move through all the time ?  I can believe (almost) that
they are allowed to full float in there ... then when vaccuum increases they
would be sucked down before too much oil got sucked in ...but if they were riding
up and down on the valve then they wouldn't stay stuck down when vaccuum increased
and you'd burn oil at high vaccuum states ...

>The reason they can't stay put is because of the taper of the valve guide

>boss of the head casting. I have never heard of anyone gluing those seals

>down. I would think the seal will wear out from doing this.
>

How so ?  I mean its still gotta rub on the guides on the bottom with what you
suggest doesn't it ?

I've always stared at them intently wondering exactly how they worked :)
Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 14:29:11 -0400
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question

Hey Rollie-

Yeah, the type that I have on there now must be the graphite ones, because
they have dual little springs that hold it to teh seal stem-- but they do
sort of snap down onto that boss of the valve guide-- wear on the valve
stems shows me that some of them stay stationary.  Now, the new seals I
bought are the umbrella style that you describe- that's what is having me
so puzzled-- I wondered if I got the wrong kind, or if they were just
different in nature as to how they acted..  The umbrella ones are for
65-86  300's and are made by Felpro, so I figured they wouldn't be
garbage..   Hmm.

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com

At 12:05 8/29/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 08/29/2000 11:31:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>redneck raex.com writes:
>
><< Do they make a glue or something to hold your valve stem seals to the head
>  surface so they don't ride up and down on the valve stem as it actuates? >>
>
>Those seals are not designed to stay put on the head. They are called
>umbrella seals. They are designed to ride up and down with the valve stem.
>The reason they can't stay put is because of the taper of the valve guide
>boss of the head casting. I have never heard of anyone gluing those seals
>down. I would think the seal will wear out from doing this.
>
>They make some better seals to solve this problem. There are some made of
>graphite with a metal collar that is installed on the boss of the head where
>the valve guides are installed. It requires machine work to use them. If all
>new valve guides are used, then these seals are pressed onto the top of the
>new valve guides. If the heads have the original valve guides then the heads
>require machine work to use these seals.  They don't move with the valve.
>They stay put and the valves move through them.
>
>I have some installed on a 351 Cleveland. It is yet to be seen if they are
>that much better. I was told that these seals allow more clearance when using
>high lift cams or double or triple valve springs though.
>
>There are some made out of Teflon with a spring like metal collar. They also
>require the heads to be machined unless all new valve guides are installed
>already. These seals are known the come apart at high revs or after years of
>use.
>
>Hope this helps,
>Rollie H. Hunt
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 14:33:46 -0400
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question

Oops- I meant to say Teflon... 8-P

Tony


At 14:29 8/29/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey Rollie-
>
>Yeah, the type that I have on there now must be the graphite ones, because
>they have dual little springs that hold it to teh seal stem-- but they do
>sort of snap down onto that boss of the valve guide-- wear on the valve
>stems shows me that some of them stay stationary.  Now, the new seals I
>bought are the umbrella style that you describe- that's what is having me
>so puzzled-- I wondered if I got the wrong kind, or if they were just
>different in nature as to how they acted..  The umbrella ones are for
>65-86  300's and are made by Felpro, so I figured they wouldn't be
>garbage..   Hmm.
>
>Tony Marino
>redneck raex.com


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 14:56:16 -0400

The seals they have been talking about are there to prevent oil from running
down the valve stem and being sucked into the ports via the valve guides.
The guides stick up above the floor of the head (top) so are not in a
position for oil to pool around the opening and be drawn in that way but
there is sufficient splash to keep them lubricated even with the "Umbrella"
between the oil and the guide.  Without the umbrella the oil from the
rockers litterally pours down the valve stem through the spring retainers
like a flood.  All they are designed to do is prevent this and it turns out
to be adequate if all other things are in good shape and the head drains are
not plugged etc..  They have the added advantage of not wearing out since
there is little relative movement between the valve stem and the seal.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary

> >Those seals are not designed to stay put on the head. They
> are called
> >umbrella seals. They are designed to ride up and down with
> the valve stem.
>
> if they were riding
> up and down on the valve then they wouldn't stay stuck down
> when vaccuum increased
> and you'd burn oil at high vaccuum states ...

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 18:11:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question

>The guides stick up above the floor of the head (top) so are not in a
>position for oil to pool around the opening and be drawn in that way but
>there is sufficient splash to keep them lubricated even with the "Umbrella"

>between the oil and the guide.  Without the umbrella the oil from the
>rockers litterally pours down the valve stem through the spring retainers
>like a flood.


So you're saying they're acutally used like umbrella's too in that they are
shedding the oil to the outside of the retainers and everything ?

So why would startup cause issues as a sign of shot seals ?  Is there that much
left in the rockers to bleed down into the valves and cause it to smoke on startup
?  Lookin at some of the D*dge minivans around here I think there's more oil
getting in than that ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 14:17:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> wear on the valve
> stems shows me that some of them stay stationary.

Uhh...I don't think a Teflon or rubber seal will wear a spot on a valve
stem. I always wondered why the little seals weren't installed on exhaust
valves, too. Of course they cook pretty quick and get hard. BTDT.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 14:17:48 -0500
From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: new 390 pix

I uploaded a couple of pix of my new 390 I installed this past weekend.
You can see them at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=257053&Auth=false

Howardb


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 14:20:35 -0500
From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: 390 Pix


Click on the FE 390 album for the engine pix, some of my other trucks
are in the trucks album.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=257053&Auth=false

Howardb


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 15:30:47 -0400
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question

Ok, wear was probably a bad word...  Let's say "discoloration" shows that
some of the seals are moving, while others are remaining stationary.. 8-)

Tony


At 14:17 8/29/2000 -0500, you wrote:
> > wear on the valve
> > stems shows me that some of them stay stationary.
>
>Uhh...I don't think a Teflon or rubber seal will wear a spot on a valve
>stem. I always wondered why the little seals weren't installed on exhaust
>valves, too. Of course they cook pretty quick and get hard. BTDT.
>
>-- John
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
>1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 14:55:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Ridiculous Valve Stem Seal Question
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>

> Ok, wear was probably a bad word...  Let's say "discoloration" shows that
> some of the seals are moving, while others are remaining stationary.. 8-)

Just poking a little fun there, Tony. We had a 66 Buick when I was growing
up. It was amazingly similar to the FE in the valve train department. We
worked on it a lot. My dad always wanted those seals to stay down on the
head, but they never did. I never could understand the point in the Teflon
ring if they were going to stick to the stem. Maybe the Teflon works like
Teflon plumber's tape.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 19:29:22 GMT
Subject: Re: new 390 pix

>I uploaded a couple of pix of my new 390 I installed this past weekend.


Cool, looks like older 390 valve covers, and the same long tube for the heater
hose comin off of the water pump that I have ... Looks pretty good, wish mine
were that clean still ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 17:44:23 -0500
From: "Howard Bottles" <Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: Re: new 390 pix

Thanks, the valve covers came off of a '66 352, I like them because they look
different and are smaller, makes it a little easier to get to the 2 spark plugs
behind the brake booster.

Just some specs on the engine:

Block: D3TF .040 over
oil gallery block off holes tapped for screw in plugs
oil hole sizes in main bearing saddles corrected
main oil passage from filter enlarged
Crank: 390 2U .010 mains, .010 rods
Rods C7AE-B(?) 428CJ
heads: C8AE-H new valves, springs, exh seats
Crane cam, .533/.563   272/284
new lifters, pushrods
Dynagear roller timing set
new melling HV oil pump
Ford Power Parts HD oil pump drive shaft
Edelbrock Performer intake
Holley 1850 600cfm carb
Pertronix ignitor ign module
stock rebuilt dizzy
Pertronix Flame Thrower Coil.
DynoMax Headers
Federal Mogul bearings,hyperutectic pistons flat top 4 eyebrow
Hastings rings
Felpro Gaskets

I guess that about does it. I hope to get the truck on a dyno just to see what it
is putting out.


Howardb

wish wrote:

> >I uploaded a couple of pix of my new 390 I installed this past weekend.
>
> Cool, looks like older 390 valve covers, and the same long tube for the heater
> hose comin off of the water pump that I have ... Looks pretty good, wish mine
> were that clean still ...
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
> 73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
> Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> http://www.ford-trucks.com
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Shipping engines
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 16:34:42 -0700

Warning:  Contains some non-Ford references...

Anyone recently shipped an engine or similar type components?  Pops has a
'63 P0nti c Tempest conv.  It has the 194.5 4 cyl, which is basically a 389
cut in half.  I have been picking up little things for it here and there.
Bought some NOS stuff from a guy in FL who is gutting his car to make it a
drag car.  We can have the drivetrain (engine, transaxle, driveshafts) for
nothing as he wants it out of his sight.  Problem is we're in CA.  I
wouldn't even bother asking, but these engines and transaxles are getting
hard to come by.

Where do I start checking to see if this is possible or worthwhile?  Any
idea of what it might cost?

FTE content:  If we were going to drive to pick it up, we'd take his ' 67
F100 or my 77 E150... :)


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 17:53:17 -0700
From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Which carb/Balancing?

>>Sorry, I'm not an authority on carb sizes, but I do have a 750 Demon on my
>>428, which has similar mods to yours. My engine builder wouldn't let me put
>>anything smaller on!!!!!!!!!! If you have questions about this carb, let me
>>know. It appears to be a Holley design, but a lot easier to adjust. It runs
>>great.

How does a Demon perform off road? Does it have the fuel sloshing
problems Holleys do?

>>I had a question, though. About what elevation are you at?

Reno,NV 4500'

>> I noticed your high compression ratio, and I wonder if you ever have any pinging problems.

Yes,I do.I only have 8 inital and only 35 total degrees advance in the
Unilite and I still get a occasional ping If I'm not careful and I have
to run Premium $205 a gallon and 10 MPG.
And I'm thinking about a bigger carb.Oh,well..........

>>I've never had any here in Colorado (I think my CR is about 10.3:1), but I
>>have a cam to help bleed this off and aluminum heads. Mr. Wish (in Iowa) >>has been having trouble with this, and he thinks his ratio is closer to >>10:1 maybe...

I have a da*n RV cam and iron heads.I believe more cam would help my
situation.I have to smog it in January and then I get my "Collector"
plates and then no more smog tests!!! Then the truck gets more cam.
I'm thinking CJ style cam.

>>We're working on another 428, and I'm wondering how much effort we should
>>put into getting the CR down from over 10???? The engine guy says he knows
>>someone who has a program set up on his CNC mill to cut out the stock heads
>>to increase the chamber sizes.

>>This engine won't have the aluminum heads, and probably some kind of RV  >>cam.

I would try to at least get it below 10.

>>How to Choose your next Carburator. By Chris Samuel in the Ford Truck   >>Enthusiasts tech article section. Just go to http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ....


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