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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:45:52 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:45:52 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: 61-79-list digest users <listar Reply-to: 61-79-list Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #211 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Wed, 23 Aug 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 211 In This Issue: Re: Mustangs vs. Trucks Re: Stroker W's Narrow eared T-10 ? syncapation Nuke GM Flipped shackle Re: Mustangs vs. Trucks Re: 400M crank into 351W Re: strokers W's Re: Nuke GM Re: Bolt patterns steering locked. Re: Mustangs vs. Trucks bed tail pans What "M" really stands for Re: steering locked. Re: steering locked. Re: Flipped shackle Re: steering locked. 351M distributor shear pin repair Re: Flipped shackle Re: 351M distributor shear pin repair Early T-10 question Re: Flipped shackle Re: Flipped shackle Re: 400M crank into 351W Re: 400M crank into 351W Re: 400M crank into 351W Speaking of plates... Re: bigger tires ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "wish" <wish Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:06:57 GMT Subject: Re: Mustangs vs. Trucks >Just a minor correction. The Mustang started with year model 1964 and 1/2. April 17th 1964, the opening of the New York World's fair to be precise ... >:-) On the point of selling numbers, you are very correct. I wonder how I guess the Mustangs must move so fast it just seems like there's just as many ... though the other thing is that there is a huge Mustang following and truck following in this part of the country, so it seems like if you don't have a truck you have a Mustang, sometimes you're lucky enough to have both :) I could've sworn the Mustang production numbers were pretty darned high since they broke tons of sales records in their first few years, but you are correct in the 70's and early 90's sales were very low while truck sales climbed. Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:10:17 GMT Subject: Re: Stroker W's >My 77 1/2t 4WD tips the scales at 5800 lbs. My Bronco weighs somewhere >around 5300- 5500 lbs the last time I checked, and I'm not a "big":^) boy. >By the time you add a winch, bumpers, large tires, spare parts and tools >(carried most of the time) and all of the extra stuff, it adds up fast. > Hahahaha, no offense intended, being a "flatlander" I just keep jumper cables and a tow rope (for lack of anywhere better to put it in the summer) behind the seat, that's about it for "emergency" equipment ... at most you'll get stuck a mile or so from someone's house/barn, and with a Ford truck, you shouldn't get stuck at all :) I can see where adding the winch and all the chains and stuff will really bring your curb weight up pretty quickly :) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Subject: Narrow eared T-10 ? Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 11:06:21 -0500 From: "Alex Cook" <alexcook32 Subject: sideloader woes I'm a bit reluctant to ask this since I think I know the answer, but I'm sure someone here can help. I recently got a great deal on a t-10 sideloader.........................Rest of "lucky dog" story clipped. :-) =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Alex, I'm in the Galaxie club and another Ford club so I forwarded your query to the other lists. I think there's "some" truth to what your friend says, but I can't remember the details. (among other things ! ) We'll see what turns up ?? Between these guys, and the Galaxie list, no good Ford question goes unanswered for long. Well.... except that pesky "M" means what? thing ! Good luck, Phil (64 F-100 - 63.5 Galaxie 500) ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: syncapation Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 11:13:09 -0500 Gary writes: >>perfect syncapation Gary's back.. Can you guys tell it. Welcome back Gary. I agree with the sheared dist drive gear for the 351M that has the rotor not rotationg.. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: Nuke GM Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 11:19:27 -0500 John LaG. writes: >>Couldn't be Stu or the plates would be from Tennessee. ;-) (and on a Ford truck, of course!)<< Yeah!! I knew it wasn't Stu. I was just giging him a bit about someone else thinking as he does..Scary to say the least.. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols Subject: Flipped shackle Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:24:53 -0700 Anyone flipped their rear shackle's over (Like a jeep rear shackle)? If so care to share your experiances? I did this a couple months ago and at first I thought I was happy with it. Softer ride, maybe a little more flex (deffinitely more droop) But now it seems there are many more negetive aspecs are out weighing the positive. First off when I step on the gas going forward it fully extends the shackle raising the back end of my truck up about three inches maybe more. Now when I step on the gas in reverse it does the opposite it fully compresses the shackles and lowers the back of my truck 3 or more inches. Now I could probably live with this but why does my truck do this? Do others who have done this have this problem. Most toyotas and jeeps have this shackle setup and you never see them with this problem. I guessing that as the axle want to twist up or down as I step on the gas it either pulls the rear of the spring forward or backward with moves my shackles which raises or lowers the back end. Would some sort of third link on the axle that prevented axle wrap help? One other thing...I deffinitely would NOT do this if you have an open rear end. Going down the road if you step on the gas only one side of the truck lifts up and steers you quickly into the other lane, just as you get it corrected you let off the gas and go off the shoulder even faster. With a locker...ehhh spool in the rear it is not nearly as bad---it's just gettting annoying. Josh ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 11:29:00 -0500 From: John Strauss <jstrauss Subject: Re: Mustangs vs. Trucks >>Mustangs have only been around since '66 >> >Just a minor correction. The Mustang started with year model 1964 and 1/2. > Oh, yeah, duh, what was I smoking???? _ _| ~~. John Strauss \, *_} jstrauss \( Texas Fight! ------------------------------ From: "Dave Resch" <Dave.Resch Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 10:34:52 -0600 Subject: Re: 400M crank into 351W >From: "Jason Derra" <derrar > >The journal sizes are the same from the 400 and >the 351W. There is no machining needed on the >mains. Yo Jason: Correct you are on the journal diameters. Both 351W and 400 share the same crankshaft rod and main journal diameters. From descriptions I have read (i.e., no direct personal experience), I understand that the counterweights on a 400 crankshaft have to be machined down to get them to clear the 351W block. This is in addition to the front snout being turned down to fit the 351W damper. Maybe it was just one of the stroker kits that did this? Dave R (M-block devotee) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 11:42:32 -0500 Subject: Re: Nuke GM From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > someone else thinking as he does..Scary to say the least.. Who's scary? Stu or the Mustang owner? Oh, both. Ahhh, seems like old times. Azie and Gary both on the list at the same time. Life is good... Nuke GM!!! That one is for Stu. ;0) -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "Alex Cook" <alexcook32 Subject: Re: strokers W's Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 16:44:48 GMT Affordable Windsor based stroker kits and crate motors can be found at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.coasthigh.com/ as well. ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: Nuke GM Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 13:00:07 -0400 Yup and I already told a lie so I'm back for sure :-) Open mouth, insert foot....... -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >Azie and Gary both on the list at the same time. Life is good... ------------------------------ From: "Alex Cook" <alexcook32 Subject: Re: Bolt patterns Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 17:07:30 GMT <<<<The very early('58 thru say around '63) manuals were a narrow pattern.... Don't know their reasoning.... early T10 (side loader as you call it) that has only the narrow pattern. All you need is the correct bellhousing to make it work(I think).>>>> Thanks Azie! I knew it would work with the right housing, I was just a bit confused by the narrow bolt pattern on the transmission. For some reason I thought the narrow/wide pattern was a big block/small block difference. Threw me off when the T10 (that supposedly came from behind an FE) had the smaller pattern. I lerned me sumtin' knew, yep. ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ From: "Alex Cook" <alexcook32 Subject: steering locked. Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 17:22:17 GMT Here's something I haven't seen. I have among my fleet of Ford and Mercury's a '72 Econoline w/302 (soon to be 351C). Great van. Last week my steering wheel locked in the center position, no movement at all (luckily I had just stopped for a sandwich.) Got under it and realized that the bolts that hold the steering box pulled right through the frame! Two questions. First, is there something other than normal wear that I should look for as being the culprit? Second is the fix. My plan now is to just have a steel plate with two holes made for me, then bolt the box back to the frame with the plate backing it. Should I trust that? I would rather keep the ability to turn at highway speeds, thank you very much. Welding the plate is maybe the obvious answer, but I'm no welder. Okay, any feedback is appreciated, thanks. --A. PS: It's power steering. ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam Subject: Re: Mustangs vs. Trucks Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 13:43:22 -0400 I don't know where you get you're Mustang info at but it is wrong. The Mustang has been around since ' 64 1/2 . -----Original Message----- From: John Strauss <jstrauss To: Ford Trucks List <61-79-list Date: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 9:21 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Mustangs vs. Trucks >>The other thing is there are probably >>just as many or more Mustangs in the world than Ford Trucks, so you get ALL >>kinds ... >> >Uh, no, there is no way that is correct. I bet Ford has sold 10 times as >many trucks than they have Mustangs. Mustangs have only been around since >'66 but Ford has been making the F-Series since, what, '46? The Ford >F-Series has been the best selling VEHICLE IN THE WORLD for the past 10 >years or so - the Mustang is not even in the top 20. > _ > _| ~~. John Strauss > \, *_} jstrauss > \( Texas Fight! > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 10:35:30 -0700 (PDT) From: "D. DiMartino" <grunon Subject: bed tail pans i've been looking for a replacement tail pan for my bed and can only find one for '73-79, not 67-72 for my '68. is there much of a difference between the model years? my gut feeling is to go ahead and order one but wanted to ask the list for any input before i buy it. the pan is out of a J.C Whitney catalog for $14.95. never ordered anything from them but it's damn cheap. they also have the correct year for the bed floor! ===== Daniel DiMartino <grunon 1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 14:17:17 -0400 From: frenz.6 Subject: What "M" really stands for In my expert opinion, I believe the 351 "M" you guys are all whining about actually stands for "Man I wish I had a Powerstroke." -Dale p.s. Some nameless lister was under the mistaken impression a few years back the 351M/400 were one and the same, with the "400" being a designation not refering to displacement. =X ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: steering locked. Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 14:20:29 -0400 The 72 should be a power drag link system. If the box pulled through the frame I would suspect rust first, loose bolts and fatigue next and a very serious trauma to the front end last, way last. The bolt holes have collars or sleeves between the two sides of the frame to support the torque of the bolts. If they pulled through they had to pull through both sides which doesn't sound very safe. The box needs to be very rigid and the bolts need to be very tight so if they go through both sides of the frame (frame is usually boxed in that area) then you need to determine if the frame is eaten away enough to be dangerous and any weak areas must be patched by a competent welder/mechanic. You cannot bolt the box to a "boxed" frame without sleeves between the two sides or it will simply bend the frame sides together, it must be supported by something. Some I've seen have an "S" shaped flat iron piece which wraps around some of the bolts creating a bridge between the two sides......either way it needs something to resist the bolt torque if it is, indeed, boxed. It is possible that the bolts have been loose long enough to "wear" through the frame too but rust is more likely the culprit. -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >had just stopped for a sandwich.) Got under it and realized >that the bolts >that hold the steering box pulled right through the frame! ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 17:33:12 GMT Subject: Re: steering locked. >If the box pulled through the >frame I would suspect rust first, loose bolts and fatigue next and a very >serious trauma to the front end last, way last>It is possible that the bolts have been loose long enough to "wear" through >the frame too but rust is more likely the culprit. > Ugh, I'm actually gonna say it ... I agree with Gary's conclusions here ... though the loose bolts might be first on my list, if it's pulled through its likely rust ... A plate might be made to span between the rust spots, but if the frame's really that rusty then you should think twice about the 351C swap (or advertise it as a freak show pretzel frame after you gun it :) ... A buddy had a BII that had issues with the box loosening, some loc-tite and its all better ... Also the factory setup on my truck used 3 bolts to hold the box in ... is this true for 2wd as well or are they 2 bolts only ? Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 17:40:47 GMT Subject: Re: Flipped shackle >Anyone flipped their rear shackle's over (Like a jeep rear shackle)? If so >care to share your experiances? > Nope, but been thinkin about it ... >I did this a couple months ago and at first I thought I was happy with it. >Softer ride, maybe a little more flex (deffinitely more droop) Cool, things I like to hear about a mod :) > But now it >seems there are many more negetive aspecs are out weighing the positive. >First off when I step on the gas going forward it fully extends the shackle >raising the back end of my truck up about three inches maybe more. > Hahahaha, sounds like an old Chrysler with its torsion bar rear suspension ... take off hard and the back lifts instead of lowering ... What's happening is I'm guessing you left your blocks on the axle when you reversed the shackles so the truck sits a bit higher now ? You've increased your leverage on the spring and you're "wrapping" the spring up ... it causes it to flatten out when you step on it, and coil up when you put it in reverse (or let off) ... Some stronger springs might be in order (there goes the smooth ride), or double check to be sure the spring retainers are still there to hold the leaves together, otherwise they could be separating and accentuating the problem. Ever watch a Toy or any of those take off from a stoplight ? You can actually see spring wrap in action ... I about died the first time I noticed it, I could actually see between the leaves on the back of the spring ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 13:41:13 -0500 Subject: Re: What "M" really stands for From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > In my expert opinion, I believe the 351 "M" you guys are all whining about > actually stands for "Man I wish I had a Powerstroke." > > -Dale Diesels? We don't need no steenking Diesels.......... -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: steering locked. Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 14:43:21 -0400 I've never seen less than 3 bolts? Seems like I had one with 4 once..... -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >all better ... Also the factory setup on my truck used 3 >bolts to hold the >box in ... is this true for 2wd as well or are they 2 bolts only ? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 14:46:29 -0400 From: George Selby <digiman Subject: 351M distributor shear pin repair At 10:59 AM 8/23/00 -0400, you wrote: >Gary affirmatively diagnosed: > <<Sheared Gear roll pin. >> My diagnosis, too. Here'e more on the COMPLETE repair, as I see it. I bought my truck, drove it about a month, and bam, dies while driving down the road. Took a week to figure out the dist roll pin was sheared. Replaced it, drove about a week, happened again. Dropped the oil pan, examined the oil pump, and there was a piece of valve stem seal stuck in the oil pump, causing it to lock up, and consequently shear the pin on the dist drive gear. Sometimes you can spin the gear by hand to diagnose, but usually you have to put dist in vise (loosely)and grab the gear with a pair of pliers to spin it. So I replaced the oil pump, and fixed the dist, and put it back together. 'Bout a week later, it did it again. So this time I replaced the valve stem seals, put the oil pump back in (was new from the previous week) and put in a new dist (Zone model $30) with a gear already attached. Has been running for a year now with no return of the problem. So here's my suggested procedure. Remove the oil pan, distributor and valve covers. Check/replace the oil pump, oil pump driveshaft, and the valve stem seals. All can be replaced w/o a engine rebuild. It took me about 4 hours to replace all the valve stem seals using the rope in the cylinder trick and a valve spring compressor that works with the head still on the block. The oil pump driveshaft is a bugger, its a hex and has to be lined up right so you can get the timing set, and it likes to pull up with the distributor when you remove it, only to fall back into the block (and on to the bottom of the oil pan) just as the distributor bottom clears the block. I think there is a clip the fits on the oil pump driveshaft that is supposed to prevent this but mine was not there. BTW, if you chose to merely put the drive gear back on the distributor, get a Genuine Ford Roll Pin. The ones I found at NAPA and Advance and The Zone were all very weak and not hardened. Guaranteed to break soon. Hope this helps. George Selby 78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd 86 Nissan 300ZX digiman http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: Flipped shackle Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 14:50:45 -0400 I've not investigated doing this with a truck but I did it on an old 54 Ch*** once and you have to figure out a way to keep it there once you do it. In that case it kept flipping back over on big bumps and usually only one side at a time so that the car was way lopsided......real uncomfortable at speed.....I used chunks of 2x4 stuck in the shackles to prevent it flipping back....I was also only 16 at the time. -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >>Anyone flipped their rear shackle's over (Like a jeep rear >shackle)? If so > >>care to share your experiances? ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: 351M distributor shear pin repair Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:01:53 -0400 The best way to check for a spun gear is to attempt to remove the pin with a proper sized punch. It should drive out easily, if not it is probably sheared and the stub end is hitting on solid shaft instead of a hole. Since the pins are typically fairly soft you can actually damage them by twisting the gear with pliers and damage the gear as well. Test the pin first and go from there.....:-) One caution not mentioned here is that the actual culprit is usually the pickup tube. When this happens, always replace the pickup tube and screen......ALWAYS! I inspected one that had built up varnish inside the tube so that it came loose in the form of thin, onion skin like material and got loged between the rotor and housing of the pump locking it up solid. In the case of valve stem seal debris, it should never have gotten to the pump if the screen was doing it's job........ Never put in a new pump without a new screen and pickup tube, ever..... -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >but usually you have to put dist in vise (loosely)and grab the >gear with a >pair of pliers to spin it. So I replaced the oil pump, and >Check/replace the oil >pump, oil pump driveshaft, and the valve stem seals. All can ------------------------------ From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Subject: Early T-10 question Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 14:12:53 -0500 <<Forwarded from the Galaxie list>> The 63 and 64 had the small bolt pattern on the T-10 , AND the toploader only for those two years. If you can hookup with the bellhousing for those years it should work. They also used the 1 1/16" shaft unless its a 427, then it would have the 1 3/8" shaft. Hope this helps, Barry FGCoA # 2132 ------------------------------ From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols Subject: Re: Flipped shackle Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 12:26:14 -0700 I agree with way you say about a toy, especially when they but big tires they have horrible axle wrap because of their weak springs. But the rear end of their truck still doesn't raise and lower that much with varied amount of throttle. I have a little axle wrap but I have certainly seen much worse. It's hard to avoid axle wrap with lotsa lift, 38.5 swampers, 4 speed and a 460. They springs are skyjacker softride's and fairly new. I didn't use any lift blocks, but I did keep the stock blocks that were on the 93 F-350 that I got my rear end from. Think that maybe different mounting technique for the shackles would help? Josh -----Original Message----- From: wish [mailto:wish Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 10:41 AM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Flipped shackle >Anyone flipped their rear shackle's over (Like a jeep rear shackle)? If so >care to share your experiances? > Nope, but been thinkin about it ... >I did this a couple months ago and at first I thought I was happy with it. >Softer ride, maybe a little more flex (deffinitely more droop) Cool, things I like to hear about a mod :) > But now it >seems there are many more negetive aspecs are out weighing the positive. >First off when I step on the gas going forward it fully extends the shackle >raising the back end of my truck up about three inches maybe more. > Hahahaha, sounds like an old Chrysler with its torsion bar rear suspension ... take off hard and the back lifts instead of lowering ... What's happening is I'm guessing you left your blocks on the axle when you reversed the shackles so the truck sits a bit higher now ? You've increased your leverage on the spring and you're "wrapping" the spring up ... it causes it to flatten out when you step on it, and coil up when you put it in reverse (or let off) ... Some stronger springs might be in order (there goes the smooth ride), or double check to be sure the spring retainers are still there to hold the leaves together, otherwise they could be separating and accentuating the problem. Ever watch a Toy or any of those take off from a stoplight ? You can actually see spring wrap in action ... I about died the first time I noticed it, I could actually see between the leaves on the back of the spring ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols Subject: Re: Flipped shackle Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 12:30:45 -0700 I'm only 19 but I haven't stuck a 2X4 in it yet...Maybe a couple more days of this and I will. If I get what you mean by flipping back wouldn't this be caused by the the spring perch mounted to far back. Letting the shackle be angled to far toward the front on the vehicle when the suspensions droops? Josh -----Original Message----- From: Peters, Gary (G.R.) [mailto:gpeters3 Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 11:51 AM To: '61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Flipped shackle I've not investigated doing this with a truck but I did it on an old 54 Ch*** once and you have to figure out a way to keep it there once you do it. In that case it kept flipping back over on big bumps and usually only one side at a time so that the car was way lopsided......real uncomfortable at speed.....I used chunks of 2x4 stuck in the shackles to prevent it flipping back....I was also only 16 at the time. -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >>Anyone flipped their rear shackle's over (Like a jeep rear >shackle)? If so > >>care to share your experiances? ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: SevnD2 Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:36:39 EDT Subject: Re: 400M crank into 351W In a message dated 08/23/2000 10:57:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time, biertest-r << The 400M crank is based off of the Cleveland design, and the mains are Huge compared to the 351W. I think almost .25" has to be removed, if not more to make the main fit. >> Didn't someone mention the problem of the oil holes in the crankshaft moving towards the edges of the bearing faces when such drastic machining is done? Supposedly causing too much oil to be lost there or something like that. May not be a problem mostly, but it does seem like a relevant point to be mentioned. Rollie H. Hunt ------------------------------ From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer99 Subject: Re: 400M crank into 351W Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 12:41:07 -0700 The material would only have to be removed if you were trying to put a 400 (no M) crank into a 351C. "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" ----- Original Message ----- From: <SevnD2 To: <61-79-list Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 12:36 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 400M crank into 351W > In a message dated 08/23/2000 10:57:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > biertest-r > > << The 400M crank is based off of the Cleveland design, and the > mains are Huge compared to the 351W. I think almost .25" has to be removed, > if not more to make the main fit. >> > > Didn't someone mention the problem of the oil holes in the crankshaft moving > towards the edges of the bearing faces when such drastic machining is done? > Supposedly causing too much oil to be lost there or something like that. May > not be a problem mostly, but it does seem like a relevant point to be > mentioned. ------------------------------ From: SevnD2 Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:44:31 EDT Subject: Re: 400M crank into 351W Ok, I am not familiar with the 351W and 351M or 400 journal sizes. I am a 351 Cleveland guy myself. I know now where to get a stroker crank for the Cleveland. Rollie H. Hunt ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 12:55:11 -0700 From: Jeff Harsha <bigjeff Subject: Speaking of plates... check the plate on my '69: -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: image/gif -- File: dads truck1.gif ------------------------------ From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 Subject: Re: bigger tires Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 20:42:17 GMT Garrett wrote: >on my 66 I have P275/60R15's Are those street tires or mud/snow? What size rims do you have? Do you know the offset? I have 15X7 chrome rims and 2 local tire shops have told me that the widest tire I can put on it is a 235/75/15, I don't agree with them. I run Wild Country RVT (mud/snow tire) and I want more tread - without buying new rims. So what size tire would be about the same diameter but wider tread? Or are .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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