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From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V4 #30
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61-79-list-digest Sunday, January 23 2000 Volume 04 : Number 030



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Gas gauges, speedo, and such (WAS : Re: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL)
FTE 61-79 - Re: Just a dumb girlie question LOL
FTE 61-79 - paint questions?
Re: FTE 61-79 - runnin on empty
FTE 61-79 - F600-370 distributor
FTE 61-79 - Cracks in 400 blocks
FTE 61-79 - Re: Timing Cover Install
FTE 61-79 - Re: Body Dipping
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Just a dumb girlie question LOL
FTE 61-79 - Re: Lisa's New Plates
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Timing Cover Install

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 12:48:43 -0500
From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Gas gauges, speedo, and such (WAS : Re: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL)

> gauge quit working at all about 4 months ago, so I just
> guess now. Checking with the odometer doesn't work
> for me either, because the speedo will work when I first
> take off (the needle bounces around, but it gives me a
> rough idea) but sooner or later, it usually decides that
> it is working too hard and gives up

Sounds like you need a new speedo cable and a new gas gauge :-)

I once had a '76 Plymouth Volare that would run 85 miles with the
needle on "E", and still be ok. My F150, however, doesn't seem to
have a fumes reserve like that, and once it gets to a little under 1/4,
that means "fill it up real soon". The gauge in the bronco seems
reasonably accurate, but I try not to let it get below an indicated1/4.
Most old fuel gauges have their own individual quirks, so the best
way to tell what the indicator really means is to experiment with it,
get a new gauge, or never let it run low on gas :-)



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Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 10:46:13 -0700
From: Harry Vermillion verinet.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Just a dumb girlie question LOL

Lisa,

My wife used to complain about the accuracy of the gauge, too,
especially when the beast was the only vehicle or we were on a cross
country, low budget trip. She didn't see the logic in running it out to
find out where the gauge was when it was empty and insitied that I try
to set it up 'right'. I have a friend who parted out his '72 Econoline
and gave me the dash cluster, saying that his gauge worked right. But
as I was getting ready to swap the meter, my daughter picked it up and
thought it was real cute how the little needle would jiggle back and
forth when she'd spring it with her finger... It gave me different
results than the original, but it wasn't 'right'.

I read somewhere that if you measure the voltage at the back of the
gauge (output of the sending unit) when it's full and when it's really
empty, you can use those voltages (with a variable dc power supply) to
setup your gauge to read properly. Unfortunately when I tried this on
my 70 E-250 recently, the voltage readings fluctuate at both extremes.
Watching the digital meter change as I took the readings, I think my
range is 1.5 volts empty to 3.6 volts full. I'd like to know what it's
supposed to be.

I was trying to figure how to pose this question when I read these
posts. I know the gauge is adjustable at both ends, but I would
imagine that each sending unit would be different as well as give
different voltages with different tanks (maybe my daughter didn't have
as much to do with it as I thought).

The last time I had my sending unit out, I think the inlet was at
the back of the tank. If they're all like that, I assume the thinking
is that you can coast downhill, but would be able to get at the very
last of your fule going uphill. I dunno, seems like one of those
'better ideas'.

- --
Harry Vermillion
E-mail: north40 verinet.com

"It ain't what you got, it's what you do with it."

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Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 14:02:19 +0000
From: "Eric Kulig" scican.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - paint questions?

Hey fellow trucksters,

(I am posting this on a couple of lists since my truck and engine
span the cutoff dates. Sorry for the duplication to those folks
who have seen it already) But I thought I'd ask for some other
input from the knowledgeable folks here on the FTE.

I've really been going to town in terms of tearing my truck apart -
it's turning into a frame-off - something that I didn't anticipate
when I first started 'sprucing it up' a few months back. But I'm in
there now, so I figure what the heck! ('61 F100 Unibody)

Anyhow, I'm getting near the point that I need to start determining
my paint scheme. And I thought I'd get some of your input and
suggestions.

This is NOT a show restoration and the truck will be my daily
driver, but I want it cool, none the less. The truck's exterior will
be close to original - a seafoam greenish or 'mint' color. (It has
grown on me to the point I actually like it!!!) Coordinating color
will be the offwhite (I think it's called wimbleton? by Ford). I am
pretty firm in these colors, as well as that I plan on painting the
frame, undercab, and inner fenders with POR-15 semi-gloss black,
after sandblasting. (This is based upon other folks good results and
reports).

What I would like to ask is what color should I paint the firewall?
It is currently the mint color, but I'll need to strip it due to all
the surface rust. I thought that the POR-15 semi-black would be
cool and durable, but I thought the Y-block engine would look good in
semi-black, too. Is a total underhood blacked-out on a mint
outter-painted truck gonna look ok? I'm having trouble visualizing
it at this point.

Also, I was thinking on painting the engine accessories a
complimentary color..... like the Ford red/orange. This would be
used for the valve covers, air filter cover, generator, starter, &
tranny. Any suggestions?

Didn't mean for this to be so long winded, but like I said, I
need to start making these decisions now so I can get my ride
ready for this summer! As always, thank for your help and thoughts.

Eric 'Stitch'
****************************************
*** "Happy Days" ***
* 1961 F100 Unibody w/ '59 292 Y-block *
****************************************
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Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 10:47:08 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - runnin on empty

Redden wrote:
>
> if yer gonna run out on purpose, better make sure there's no rusty, crud in
> the bottom of yer tank
> ask me how i know...

The main thing you want to know is how many gallons you've got left when
it reads empty. Just take the capacity of your tank, run it down to E,
then see how many gallons it takes to fill it up. The difference is your
reserve.

Denny
'72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 18:38:52 EST
From: RSrour aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F600-370 distributor

>hi- I've been a subscriber to this list for some time but haven't followed
>the conversations much. I am currently undertaking a frame off restoration
on
>a '79 F600. Most of the running gear is in good shape. I paid through the
>nose for fenders and doors. I am going to change the color from light blue
to
>red. I need a distributor w/ a tach drive (the factory tach is mechanical)
>Does anybody know which distributors fit a 370?
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Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 19:21:56 -0500
From: "Dender, Richard" uslec.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cracks in 400 blocks

I am having difficulty locating a 400 block for a re-build that is not
cracked around the head bolt holes. Three in a row and three cracked ones.
Am I just one unlucky dude, or is there a year model that is less prone to
cracking? If so, any information would be appreciated.

Who was looking for a Uni-body? There is a '61 F-100 Uni-body with a new
302, 4 barrel, etc. for sale in the Nashville, TN paper. The phone number
is 615-895-7675. The price is $1,800.00. I have not seen the truck but saw
a post asking of info on buying a Uni-body.

Bull174



Thanks,

Rich


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Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 23:20:34 -0600
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Timing Cover Install

Since some engines use locating pins on the timing cover maybe this
concept could be applied to avoid dropping the pan. This would only work
for a front cover that is currently centered (undisturbed). BEFORE
removing the timing cover, drill a shallow pair of locating holes the
size of a small roll pin through the front cover into the face of the
block (not through it) centered in the gasket area, one on each side away
from the oil galleries and water passages. Then when you put it back
together again pry the cover down to align the drilled holes, drive the
roll pins into place and torque the bolts down. The pins will ensure
it's back where it started, properly centered. Pull the roll pins after
the gasket goo dries, or leave them in place if they aren't in the way.

Been there too many times........
Brett,
Super75cab
>Like I said though, if you don't loosen the pan or use a
>pry bar to offset the pressure (and this is strictly guessing) when you
>tighten the bolts on the cover the front seal will not be centered and
will
>fail sooner than it should and sometimes this can be very soon.
________________________________________________________________




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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 19:50:09 -0600
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Body Dipping

Daniel,
Just a quick note about paint stripping. None of the different
approaches are perfect. There are industrial stripping processes that
will remove the paint AND the rust. COOL! But the dipper has to be
meticulous about washing out all the chemicals. I've seen paint jobs
marred by the chemicals seeping back out of crevices after the paint has
been applied and causing it to lift.
A less extreme paint removal method is plastic media blasting. But it
only removes paint where the blaster can get to it. No inside of boxed
sections, etc. This can be good or bad depending on what you want to do.
For example, the factory dipped alot of parts with rust preventative
primers to get into all the nooks and crannies and boxed sections. If
you dip it that means the whole thing gets stripped and you're going to
have figure out how to coat everything inside and out with some sort of a
rust preventative coating. If you media blast it you're not disturbing
the coatings inside the boxed sections.
Neither is cheap. I don't have a current price quote on dipping. But,
what does it cost to call them up and ask? They don't bite.
Brett
Super75cab
>All this talk about paint made me start kicking around the idea
>of how much it would cost to have the body of a p/u dipped and
>stripped in an industrial type facility. anyone know how much?
>seen 'em advertized in HMN, but they don't give you an idea of
>price. i get scared when they say "affordable" cuz i'm not
>rich, just wondering.
>Daniel DiMartino yahoo.com>

________________________________________________________________




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Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 22:09:39 -0800
From: "Jerry Godsey" prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Just a dumb girlie question LOL

Wouldn't it be easier to put gas in it when it gets to 1/4 tank? That way
you know you're safe.
Blessings,
Jerry Godsey
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275

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Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 07:14:29 -0800
From: Marv Miller lafn.org>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Lisa's New Plates

Lisa wrote:
> By the way my new license plate is gonna be
> "RNNONMT"hehe No one better steal that!!

Lisa, see http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://plates.ca.gov/search/
Unless you've already got it reserved, looks like it's gone.
Sorry to be the bearer........
You might want to play around with that Web site, however. It looks like
RUNONMT is still available.

Marv Miller mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".

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Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 04:13:24 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Timing Cover Install

Sounds like a lot of work just to avoid doing the job right and your back to
messing up the pan gasket on a FE or gaskets and seal on anything else.
I'd rather pull the pan. If this is an engine you haven't known since new who
knows what might be lurking in there. Old, hardened, broken valve seals can
be deadly. I've found them completely covering the pickup screen, wouldn't be
long before they bypass into the pump.

George



Brett L Habben wrote:

> Since some engines use locating pins on the timing cover maybe this
> concept could be applied to avoid dropping the pan. This would only work
> for a front cover that is currently centered (undisturbed). BEFORE
> removing the timing cover, drill a shallow pair of locating holes the
> size of a small roll pin through the front cover into the face of the
> block (not through it) centered in the gasket area, one on each side away
> from the oil galleries and water passages. Then when you put it back
> together again pry the cover down to align the drilled holes, drive the
> roll pins into place and torque the bolts down. The pins will ensure
> it's back where it started, properly centered. Pull the roll pins after
> the gasket goo dries, or leave them in place if they aren't in the way.
>
> Been there too many times........
> Brett,
> Super75cab
> >Like I said though, if you don't loosen the pan or use a
> >pry bar to offset the pressure (and this is strictly guessing) when you
> >tighten the bolts on the cover the front seal will not be centered and
> will
> >fail sooner than it should and sometimes this can be very soon.....


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