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From: owner-61-79-list-digest  ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest) To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list-digest V4 #28 Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Saturday, January 22 2000 Volume 04 : Number 028 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings Re: FTE 61-79 - horn button RE: FTE 61-79 - Springs RE: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: LISTS AND WEB SITE WILL GO DOWN! RE: FTE 61-79 - Brake Lines RE: FTE 61-79 - paint RE: FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings FTE 61-79 - body dipping FTE 61-79 - I6 Stang FTE 61-79 - C-6 and other stuff..... FTE 61-79 - Re: Good deal in Central Cali (170/200 engines) RE: FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford E250 Ford Shop Manual Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Good deal in Central Cali (170/200 engines) FTE 61-79 - Engine swap radiator qustion RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine swap radiator qustion FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines Re: FTE 61-79 - body dipping FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL Re: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL Re: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 02:38:51 -0800 From: Jason Derra Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings The 2wd rear radius arm mounts unbolt from the frame. You don't need to remove the coil spring to replace them. It may help to remove the lower shock absorber and use a come along to pull the I beam forward slightly to get the bolts back into the holes, if they are stubborn when you put them back together. I have used poly bushings for many different applications and have been happy with the performance from them. Jason Brent and Millie Price wrote: > Okay you suspension experts, anyone have tips on changing the radius (strut) > arm bushings on a 76 F100 2wd? > > After I take the spring out, do I have to remove the front connection of the > radius arm at the I beam? Or will the radius arm and I-beam move forward > enough to clear the rear bracket? What about the flexible brake line, does > it have to be removed? About how long with it take to do both sides? > > I ordered the polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspensions. Anyone ever > tried these? > > bkp > 76 F100 XLT > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 05:50:45 -0500 From: "G.T. Herpich" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - horn button Try one of these: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.auto krafters.  com / http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.macsautoparts.com/ George H michael iar.net wrote: > Hi! yall! My name is Michael McDonald and am 17 years old. I have > been a subscriber to this list since mid-dec. I am the proud 2nd. > owner of a 1968.5 F-250 Ranger "Camper Special" 390 C-6 :-). I > would appreciate it if anyone could assist my in obtaining the > plastic ring that attaches the horn button to the sterring column. > > michael iar.net > 68 F-250 "cash flow" > 92 Pont *&^c TransPort > 84 Olds#$%*le Cutlass Supreme > 80 Ma*#%da GLC > Mobile,Al > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 06:28:32 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Springs I went to "Arc Spring" here in Ypsi with my bronco and got them rebuilt using my good leafs and new ones to replace the bad ones, new busings and pins, removed, cleaned up and re-installed for $281.00. They got their hands dirty, they got to cuss at all the rusted bolts, they got to deal with all the problems that come up when doing this "5 minute job" for a friend etc.. I had the cash and had other things to do so they got the job and did a nice job on it too :-) There are limits to what one person can accumulate in the way of tools and materials to do work on his trucks. Some things simply can be done as well for very little more money by a pro and you don't have to buy tools you will only use once to do the job. Machining, leaf springs and front end alignment I leave to the pros, the rest I do myself :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary - -- >Whenever I've had springs to replace (leaf), I've just gone to a >local spring shop in my area. They can order, make, modify any >spring and have/get bushings and pins, u-bolts, etc. > They are usually MUCH cheaper than any mail-order place I == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 06:48:28 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: LISTS AND WEB SITE WILL GO DOWN! Well, thats it then.......I refuse Saturday over time if I can't have my list to play with........:-( OTOH, it's supposed to be below zero here tomorrow and my heater won't do the job in that weather so......maybe I can tough it out :-) Work on bad days, play on good ones, eh?.........:-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary - -- >Ford Truck Enthusiasts will be completing (hopefully) its move >to its new dedicated server this weekend. There WILL be an >interruption of service. Depending on how long it takes your >ISP's DNS server to receive IP updates, you will lose access >to FTE's web site and email lists for 24-72 hours. Anything >sent to the lists or posted to the web site may be lost during >this time. This is unavoidable since we do not host our own >DNS server. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 07:00:03 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Brake Lines The reason I do it is because I keep a truck untill I can't fix it anymore. The 78 pickup has been in the family since new. Auto parts brake lines rust out in a very short time. The OEM lines are aluminzed and last a lot longer and stay looking nicer longer as well so don't require painting but the replacement stuff will start pitting in a northern region due to salt etc. in just a matter of months if you don't protect it. I have, as yet, never painted them but it has always been on my mind to do it one day. The day has arrived. I have a clean shop to work in and all the resources I need to do it right, now so when I put the bronco up this time for new lines it will come down with them painted :-) If you want to keep the same look then use silver paint :-) Mine will be Mustang Yellow to match my poly bushings and front axle :-) Show truck? Me? Not bloody likely :-) Nice, functional, clean maybe.........well, functional anyway :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary - -- >I was wondering WHY anyone would put so much fuss into painting >brake lines. Maybe a show-truck, but not a daily driver. I think the >new lines look sharp against a black painted frame, looks mechanical, >man-like. I've always felt lines just have to be replaced >once-in-awhile. >Generally, I never keep a vehicle over 2 yrs. and everything I've done >to it lasts quite awhile.Always fixin' em up for the "next guy". > Biggest problem is finding right lengths or usable lengths. >Stores think >everyone needs 12", 20",30" etc...... never understood why they >have a 51" odd one. Tying them to frame is most important part, to >prevent vibration and cracking. > "G" > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info >http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 07:04:10 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - paint There certainly is some truth to that. My bronco was fixed up by Maaco and looked pretty good when I bought it but..........Still fixable but it's going to take some work :-( I knew about some of the patches but there were some insidious ones which will be hard to fix that I didn't notice at first, darn it! :-( - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary - -- >Gary writes: >> Faded paint is not an issue with me personally but may >tend to take the price down as well with other buyers.<< > >I'd rather have an original faded paint job than a newly >painted one. You >know for sure they aren't trying to cover anything up that way. > >Azie == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 07:12:37 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings Unless you have some air tools and lots of patience I would not attempt to remove the front bolt in the radius arm of an I beam truck. It will probably break and the bolt will be rusted into the I beam so that you can't even drive it out. The I beam pivot bolt is easier to remove if it becomes necessary. I believe I changed mine by releasing the shock and spring and prying it down and forward with a large, long pipe. Just be carefull what you pry against and don't over force the beam so as to damage the pivot bushing or bracket etc.. The beam will most likely not bend but other things attached to it will. You do need to get it up off the ground quite a ways to give the wheels room to drop enough. Removing the wheels gives you more room to work on it and you don't have to jack it up quite as high. Use jack stands, not jacks or blocks. They don't cost much and you "CAN afford them when you consider the "other" options or......you could always build a new pole barn and put in a li............. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary - -- >Okay you suspension experts, anyone have tips on changing the >radius (strut) >arm bushings on a 76 F100 2wd? > >After I take the spring out, do I have to remove the front >connection of the >radius arm at the I beam? Or will the radius arm and I-beam == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 04:40:46 -0800 (PST) From: "D. DiMartino" Subject: FTE 61-79 - body dipping all this talk about paint made me start kicking around the idea of how much it would cost to have the body of a p/u dipped and stripped in an industrial type facility. anyone know how much? seen 'em advertized in HMN, but they don't give you an idea of price. i get scared when they say "affordable" cuz i'm not rich, just wondering. ===== Daniel DiMartino 1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:56:34 -0500 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - I6 Stang Doug J. wriotes: >>Delano is interested, but I just don't know enough about the old I6s to say if a Mustang motor will readily bolt into an 65 Econoline. Anyone remember? Azzie?<< Can't say for sure cause I've not BTDT, bbbuuuuuttttt I'd venture to say that it will bolt in using all factory components. The years are so close together. Just a guess, but I'd risk it if I really wanted that combo. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 10:10:11 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6 and other stuff..... Just browsing through the JCW and Northern catalogs and ordered some more toys. My credit card is actually cowering in fear of the impending purchases..........but, sanity will prevail, not to fear......:-) Just ordered a nibbler since the shear I bought won't turn corners, darn it! :-( Should have got the nibbler in the first place but that shear would have been handy when I was finishing the sheet metal on the barn for sure :-) Noticed that the JCW catalog makes a distinction between the 66-76 C-6 and the 77-89 C-6. Probably the Type-F and Dextron thing rearing it's extremely ugly head again........?? Got my Np435 parts yesterday in a little box......not very much for $300.....sort of like wasting money on a diamond ring, so much money for such a small, useless trinket (just my opinion of course :-)) Going to have to start refusing some over time so I can get a few things done I guess :-) I'll wait till it warms back up to about 30 though :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary - -- == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 10:36:17 -0500 From: "Don Haring, Jr." Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Good deal in Central Cali (170/200 engines) djohnson lem10.med.navy.mil (Douglas Johnson) said: >> 66 200 cid I6 with C4, complete from a running Mustang >Ok y'all, is there much diference between a 170 I6 and a 200? Jerry from >Delano is interested, but I just don't know enough about the old I6s to say >if a Mustang motor will readily bolt into an 65 Econoline. Anyone remember? >Azzie? The 200 should be a bolt-in. The block is the same as the 170 and the engine is the same height. I don't remember what year Jerry has but there might be small differences such as generator vs alternator, but nothing that would pose a big problem. I'm not an expert on these engines, I just happen to have a 170 in my '61 Falcon and I also have a Club Wagon, so I'm familiar with what will fit. The 200 is a better engine for someone not interested in parts original to the truck. There weren't too many early Econolines made with auto transmissions, and if Jerry has a manual, the auto steering/shift columns are hard to find (CA might be better than the east coast), so linkage might be an issue. If he wanted to use his transmission and put in the 200, he'd have to first check the tranny bolt pattern. If it's an early 170 with a small 2.77 manual tranny, that small tranny won't bolt up to a 200 AFAIK. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. If you know about these small sixes, please share. Thanks, don - -- Don in Philadelphia Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 07:47:46 -0800 From: "Southerland, Rich" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford E250 Ford Shop Manual The P/N of the manuals in question are: FPS 365-127-77A (Vol. 1 - Chassis) FPS 365-127-77B (Vol. 2 - Engine) FPS 365-127-77C (Vol. 3/4 - Wiring/Body) FPS 365-127-77D (Vol. 5 - Maint./Lubrication) Those came off the back of my OE manuals. There wasn't an ISBN number on any of them. IMHO, these are the best to have, but they do lack some real diagnostic info (like ignition-troubleshooting) which the Chilton/Haynes do provide to some extent. I have both and use them both. Hope this helps, Rich - -----Original Message----- From: Robert Gunter [mailto:rjgunter icnpharm.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 2:50 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com; 4x4van onelist.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford E250 Ford Shop Manual Greetings all, I would like to buy the Ford Shop manual for my Van. Problem is, the usual vendor wants too much. I saw this on Amazon: Ford 2-Wheel Drive Full-Size, Super Shop Manual, F-Series Pickup and Econoline Vans Nineteen Sixty-Nine to Nineteen Eighty-Nine fIs this the same thing? There was no author listed, or ISBN, just this title. If anyone has an ISBN that would be helpful. I have a couple of the more generic shop manuals passed on by the previous owner, but they don't have the detail I would like/need. Anyone out there have an extry they could part with?? Thanks, Rob G. The Mystery Machine is a 77 Ford E250 Quadravan, 460 ci, 3.73 gears with a C6 Tranny. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:13:52 -0800 From: "Jerry Godsey" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Good deal in Central Cali (170/200 engines) Thanks for all the wisdom, folks. I think I am going to go for it. The increase in cubes is nice, but the availability of aftermarket parts and an automatic are especially nice. I am probably going to replace the sterring column with something from a later model (that will take care of my sterring wheel problem, too). Anybody got an idea what will bolt in there? Blessings, Jerry Godsey www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 09:54:43 -0900 From: Craig Taylor Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine swap radiator qustion I'm in the process of swapping in a built 460 with c6 to my 72 4x4 crew cab F350. My question is this, the truck came with a very large radiator for a 360 and a 4 sp. I have a smaller radiator out of a 390 c6 2x truck. Will this radiator keep up with my big block? If not what can I swap in? Anyone with experience in this swap that can give me anything to look out for? I believe I will need to swap out the rear cross member to clear the bottom of my new c6. I also have an open knuckle front end I'm going to put under it and would like to convert to power steering at the same time. I have a power gear box from a 79 1 ton van I'd like to use. Has anyone tried that conversion? I know I have allot of questions here and hope to get this thing back on the road soon. Thanks in advance. Craig 72 F350 crew cab 4x4, being resurrected. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 13:20:18 -0600 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine swap radiator qustion > My question is this, the truck came with a very large radiator > for a 360 and a 4 sp. I have a smaller radiator out of a 390 c6 2x > truck. Will this radiator keep up with my big block? If not what can I > swap in? Well check that the inlet and outlet are on the side they need to be for your hoses to line up ... and what sort of power are you puttin out from the 460 ? I don't think a mostly stock 460 will prove any problem for a 390 radiator ... though I oversized mine, its still keepin it under 200 in even the hottest conditions ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 11:36:12 -0800 From: "Pat" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines Howdy Folks, The type of brake line that I was referring to was the stainless steel hard lines. Sounded like a cool idea to me. Would look good & wouldn't rust, what more is there. Oh year, you've got to flare them and need a $500.00+ machine to do it. > Patsplace > 78 F-150 W/Overloads > 77 F-250 4X4 > 79 F-250 4X4 Dream Truck Under Way > 72 F150 Ranger parts truck > 79 F250 Lariat donor vech. for the '79 4X4 You can buy pre-bent stainless steel hard lines from Classic Tubing I believe it is and another one I can't recall but these are flared on a machine which maintains the integrity of the metal during the flare process. If you want to make your own you are much better off using aluminized mild steel line form what I've been told and read about it. >I think the mags are referring to stainless steel BRAIDED >brake lines. ------------------------------ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:36:49 -0800 From: John Lord Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - body dipping The 1967 Merc 3/4 ton i own was in a front end accident just before i bought it. the owner replaced the entire nose. He had the replaement parts stripped and Cadmium plated (gold colored) then had all the parts painted with epoxy paint. I have noticed that after 10 years their is no sign of rust pn the inner fenders but their is a rust bubble forming just in front of the drivers door. apparently either the plating wasnt good enough there or their was something in the support for the pannel that prevented plating. The black epoxy paint was only put on the nose and it is the toughest paint ive ever seen but it does not hold a shine no matter what i try. I do not know what this would cost. but it looks like my inner fenders will last for a hundred years or so, and i would recomend it on the parts that tend to cause problems. All inner fenders in the 70's were Galvanized. It is not quite as good as Cadmium plating. but both are a good idea for problem parts. "D. DiMartino" wrote: > all this talk about paint made me start kicking around the idea > of how much it would cost to have the body of a p/u dipped and > stripped in an industrial type facility. anyone know how much? > seen 'em advertized in HMN, but they don't give you an idea of > price. i get scared when they say "affordable" cuz i'm not > rich, just wondering. > > ===== > Daniel DiMartino > > 1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4 > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 19:26:14 EST From: Bad4dFilly aol.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL Hiya guys! Long time no see! I've been lurkin lately cuz I haven't had much to say LOL But now I got a question for y'all! Here goes: Many a time I have been extremely low on gas gas the thingie get on your gas gauge before you'll be SOL on the side of the road? My thoughts are that when I top off my tank, the thingie goes PAST the Full line, sooooo....if I'm bone dry wouldn't the thingie go past the empty line *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~* *~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~* == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 18:45:40 -0600 From: "Freewheel" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL The only way to know for sure is to run out of gas, most gas gauges are not very accurate in the extremes.......meaning at full or empty Larry ICQ# 3156803 Stephen Hawking: "The 50-50-90 rule: Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong." - ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ford-trucks.com>Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 6:26 PM Subject: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL > Hiya guys! Long time no see! I've been lurkin lately cuz I haven't had much > to say LOL But now I got a question for y'all! Here goes: Many a time I have > been extremely low on gas > gas > the thingie get on your gas gauge before you'll be SOL on the side of the > road? My thoughts are that when I top off my tank, the thingie goes PAST the > Full line, sooooo....if I'm bone dry wouldn't the thingie go past the empty > line Thanks! > > *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~* > *~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~* > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 22:59:47 -0800 From: MC Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL The only way to know for sure is to run it out of gas on purpose one time. Then you know. On my '70, the gauge reads about 3/4 full when it's totally full, and well below "E" when empty. My '76 used to be about the same, but the gauge quit working at all about 4 months ago, so I just guess now. Checking with the odometer doesn't work for me either, because the speedo will work when I first take off (the needle bounces around, but it gives me a rough idea) but sooner or later, it usually decides that it is working too hard and gives up. I don't care what the speedo thinks, but I know I'm doing more that 0 mph when I pass all them C*%&ies! - -- Matt Cozad The Force. It surrounds us. It enfolds us. It gets us dates on Saturday Nights. - Obi Wan Kenobi, Famous Jedi Knight and Party Animal. [||||||]=[|00|]=(|¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_¯_)== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ End of 61-79-list-digest V4 #28 ******************************* +----- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 though 1979 Trucks And Vans -----+ | Send posts to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com, || List removal information is on the web site. | +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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