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From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V4 #28
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
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Precedence: bulk


61-79-list-digest Saturday, January 22 2000 Volume 04 : Number 028



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
majordomo ford-trucks.com
with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings
Re: FTE 61-79 - horn button
RE: FTE 61-79 - Springs
RE: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: LISTS AND WEB SITE WILL GO DOWN!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Brake Lines
RE: FTE 61-79 - paint
RE: FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings
FTE 61-79 - body dipping
FTE 61-79 - I6 Stang
FTE 61-79 - C-6 and other stuff.....
FTE 61-79 - Re: Good deal in Central Cali (170/200 engines)
RE: FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford E250 Ford Shop Manual
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Good deal in Central Cali (170/200 engines)
FTE 61-79 - Engine swap radiator qustion
RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine swap radiator qustion
FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines
Re: FTE 61-79 - body dipping
FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL
Re: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL
Re: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 02:38:51 -0800
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings

The 2wd rear radius arm mounts unbolt from the frame. You don't need to remove
the coil spring to replace them. It may help to remove the lower shock absorber
and use a come along to pull the I beam forward slightly to get the bolts back
into the holes, if they are stubborn when you put them back together. I have
used poly bushings for many different applications and have been happy with the
performance from them.
Jason

Brent and Millie Price wrote:

> Okay you suspension experts, anyone have tips on changing the radius (strut)
> arm bushings on a 76 F100 2wd?
>
> After I take the spring out, do I have to remove the front connection of the
> radius arm at the I beam? Or will the radius arm and I-beam move forward
> enough to clear the rear bracket? What about the flexible brake line, does
> it have to be removed? About how long with it take to do both sides?
>
> I ordered the polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspensions. Anyone ever
> tried these?
>
> bkp
> 76 F100 XLT
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 05:50:45 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - horn button

Try one of these:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.auto krafters. com /
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.macsautoparts.com/

George H

michael iar.net wrote:

> Hi! yall! My name is Michael McDonald and am 17 years old. I have
> been a subscriber to this list since mid-dec. I am the proud 2nd.
> owner of a 1968.5 F-250 Ranger "Camper Special" 390 C-6 :-). I
> would appreciate it if anyone could assist my in obtaining the
> plastic ring that attaches the horn button to the sterring column.
>
> michael iar.net
> 68 F-250 "cash flow"
> 92 Pont *&^c TransPort
> 84 Olds#$%*le Cutlass Supreme
> 80 Ma*#%da GLC
> Mobile,Al
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 06:28:32 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Springs

I went to "Arc Spring" here in Ypsi with my bronco and got them rebuilt
using my good leafs and new ones to replace the bad ones, new busings and
pins, removed, cleaned up and re-installed for $281.00. They got their
hands dirty, they got to cuss at all the rusted bolts, they got to deal with
all the problems that come up when doing this "5 minute job" for a friend
etc.. I had the cash and had other things to do so they got the job and did
a nice job on it too :-) There are limits to what one person can accumulate
in the way of tools and materials to do work on his trucks. Some things
simply can be done as well for very little more money by a pro and you don't
have to buy tools you will only use once to do the job. Machining, leaf
springs and front end alignment I leave to the pros, the rest I do myself
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

>Whenever I've had springs to replace (leaf), I've just gone to a
>local spring shop in my area. They can order, make, modify any
>spring and have/get bushings and pins, u-bolts, etc.
> They are usually MUCH cheaper than any mail-order place I
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 06:48:28 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: LISTS AND WEB SITE WILL GO DOWN!

Well, thats it then.......I refuse Saturday over time if I can't have my
list to play with........:-( OTOH, it's supposed to be below zero here
tomorrow and my heater won't do the job in that weather so......maybe I can
tough it out :-) Work on bad days, play on good ones, eh?.........:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

>Ford Truck Enthusiasts will be completing (hopefully) its move
>to its new dedicated server this weekend. There WILL be an
>interruption of service. Depending on how long it takes your
>ISP's DNS server to receive IP updates, you will lose access
>to FTE's web site and email lists for 24-72 hours. Anything
>sent to the lists or posted to the web site may be lost during
>this time. This is unavoidable since we do not host our own
>DNS server.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 07:00:03 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Brake Lines

The reason I do it is because I keep a truck untill I can't fix it anymore.
The 78 pickup has been in the family since new. Auto parts brake lines rust
out in a very short time. The OEM lines are aluminzed and last a lot longer
and stay looking nicer longer as well so don't require painting but the
replacement stuff will start pitting in a northern region due to salt etc.
in just a matter of months if you don't protect it.

I have, as yet, never painted them but it has always been on my mind to do
it one day. The day has arrived. I have a clean shop to work in and all
the resources I need to do it right, now so when I put the bronco up this
time for new lines it will come down with them painted :-) If you want to
keep the same look then use silver paint :-) Mine will be Mustang Yellow to
match my poly bushings and front axle :-) Show truck? Me? Not bloody
likely :-) Nice, functional, clean maybe.........well, functional anyway
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

>I was wondering WHY anyone would put so much fuss into painting
>brake lines. Maybe a show-truck, but not a daily driver. I think the
>new lines look sharp against a black painted frame, looks mechanical,
>man-like. I've always felt lines just have to be replaced
>once-in-awhile.
>Generally, I never keep a vehicle over 2 yrs. and everything I've done
>to it lasts quite awhile.Always fixin' em up for the "next guy".
> Biggest problem is finding right lengths or usable lengths.
>Stores think
>everyone needs 12", 20",30" etc...... never understood why they
>have a 51" odd one. Tying them to frame is most important part, to
>prevent vibration and cracking.
> "G"
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 07:04:10 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - paint

There certainly is some truth to that. My bronco was fixed up by Maaco and
looked pretty good when I bought it but..........Still fixable but it's
going to take some work :-( I knew about some of the patches but there were
some insidious ones which will be hard to fix that I didn't notice at first,
darn it! :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

>Gary writes: >> Faded paint is not an issue with me personally but may
>tend to take the price down as well with other buyers.<<
>
>I'd rather have an original faded paint job than a newly
>painted one. You
>know for sure they aren't trying to cover anything up that way.
>
>Azie
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 07:12:37 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings

Unless you have some air tools and lots of patience I would not attempt to
remove the front bolt in the radius arm of an I beam truck. It will
probably break and the bolt will be rusted into the I beam so that you can't
even drive it out. The I beam pivot bolt is easier to remove if it becomes
necessary. I believe I changed mine by releasing the shock and spring and
prying it down and forward with a large, long pipe. Just be carefull what
you pry against and don't over force the beam so as to damage the pivot
bushing or bracket etc.. The beam will most likely not bend but other
things attached to it will.

You do need to get it up off the ground quite a ways to give the wheels room
to drop enough. Removing the wheels gives you more room to work on it and
you don't have to jack it up quite as high. Use jack stands, not jacks or
blocks. They don't cost much and you "CAN afford them when you consider the
"other" options or......you could always build a new pole barn and put in a
li.............

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

>Okay you suspension experts, anyone have tips on changing the
>radius (strut)
>arm bushings on a 76 F100 2wd?
>
>After I take the spring out, do I have to remove the front
>connection of the
>radius arm at the I beam? Or will the radius arm and I-beam
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 04:40:46 -0800 (PST)
From: "D. DiMartino" yahoo.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - body dipping

all this talk about paint made me start kicking around the idea
of how much it would cost to have the body of a p/u dipped and
stripped in an industrial type facility. anyone know how much?
seen 'em advertized in HMN, but they don't give you an idea of
price. i get scared when they say "affordable" cuz i'm not
rich, just wondering.

=====
Daniel DiMartino
yahoo.com>
1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:56:34 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I6 Stang

Doug J. wriotes: >>Delano is interested, but I just don't know enough
about the old I6s to say
if a Mustang motor will readily bolt into an 65 Econoline. Anyone remember?
Azzie?<<

Can't say for sure cause I've not BTDT, bbbuuuuuttttt I'd venture to say
that it will bolt in using all factory components. The years are so close
together. Just a guess, but I'd risk it if I really wanted that combo.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 10:10:11 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6 and other stuff.....

Just browsing through the JCW and Northern catalogs and ordered some more
toys. My credit card is actually cowering in fear of the impending
purchases..........but, sanity will prevail, not to fear......:-) Just
ordered a nibbler since the shear I bought won't turn corners, darn it! :-(
Should have got the nibbler in the first place but that shear would have
been handy when I was finishing the sheet metal on the barn for sure :-)

Noticed that the JCW catalog makes a distinction between the 66-76 C-6 and
the 77-89 C-6. Probably the Type-F and Dextron thing rearing it's extremely
ugly head again........??

Got my Np435 parts yesterday in a little box......not very much for
$300.....sort of like wasting money on a diamond ring, so much money for
such a small, useless trinket (just my opinion of course :-)) Going to have
to start refusing some over time so I can get a few things done I guess :-)
I'll wait till it warms back up to about 30 though :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 10:36:17 -0500
From: "Don Haring, Jr." fedora.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Good deal in Central Cali (170/200 engines)

djohnson lem10.med.navy.mil (Douglas Johnson) said:

>> 66 200 cid I6 with C4, complete from a running Mustang

>Ok y'all, is there much diference between a 170 I6 and a 200? Jerry from
>Delano is interested, but I just don't know enough about the old I6s to say
>if a Mustang motor will readily bolt into an 65 Econoline. Anyone remember?
>Azzie?


The 200 should be a bolt-in. The block is the same as the 170 and the
engine is the same height. I don't remember what year Jerry has but there
might be small differences such as generator vs alternator, but nothing
that would pose a big problem. I'm not an expert on these engines, I just
happen to have a 170 in my '61 Falcon and I also have a Club Wagon, so I'm
familiar with what will fit. The 200 is a better engine for someone not
interested in parts original to the truck.

There weren't too many early Econolines made with auto transmissions, and
if Jerry has a manual, the auto steering/shift columns are hard to find (CA
might be better than the east coast), so linkage might be an issue. If he
wanted to use his transmission and put in the 200, he'd have to first check
the tranny bolt pattern. If it's an early 170 with a small 2.77 manual
tranny, that small tranny won't bolt up to a 200 AFAIK.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. If you know about these small
sixes, please share.

Thanks,
don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 07:47:46 -0800
From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford E250 Ford Shop Manual

The P/N of the manuals in question are:
FPS 365-127-77A (Vol. 1 - Chassis)
FPS 365-127-77B (Vol. 2 - Engine)
FPS 365-127-77C (Vol. 3/4 - Wiring/Body)
FPS 365-127-77D (Vol. 5 - Maint./Lubrication)

Those came off the back of my OE manuals. There wasn't an ISBN number on
any of them.

IMHO, these are the best to have, but they do lack some real diagnostic info
(like ignition-troubleshooting) which the Chilton/Haynes do provide to some
extent.
I have both and use them both.

Hope this helps,
Rich

- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Gunter [mailto:rjgunter icnpharm.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 2:50 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com; 4x4van onelist.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford E250 Ford Shop Manual


Greetings all,

I would like to buy the Ford Shop manual for my Van. Problem is, the usual
vendor wants too much.

I saw this on Amazon:

Ford 2-Wheel Drive Full-Size, Super Shop Manual,
F-Series Pickup and Econoline Vans Nineteen Sixty-Nine to Nineteen
Eighty-Nine

fIs this the same thing? There was no author listed, or ISBN, just this
title.
If anyone has an ISBN that would be helpful.

I have a couple of the more generic shop manuals passed on by the previous
owner,
but they don't have the detail I would like/need.

Anyone out there have an extry they could part with??

Thanks,

Rob G.

The Mystery Machine is a 77 Ford E250 Quadravan, 460 ci, 3.73 gears with a
C6
Tranny.


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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:13:52 -0800
From: "Jerry Godsey" prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Good deal in Central Cali (170/200 engines)

Thanks for all the wisdom, folks. I think I am going to go for it. The
increase in cubes is nice, but the availability of aftermarket parts and an
automatic are especially nice.
I am probably going to replace the sterring column with something from a
later model (that will take care of my sterring wheel problem, too).
Anybody got an idea what will bolt in there?
Blessings,
Jerry Godsey
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275

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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 09:54:43 -0900
From: Craig Taylor matnet.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine swap radiator qustion

I'm in the process of swapping in a built 460 with c6 to my 72 4x4 crew
cab F350. My question is this, the truck came with a very large radiator
for a 360 and a 4 sp. I have a smaller radiator out of a 390 c6 2x
truck. Will this radiator keep up with my big block? If not what can I
swap in? Anyone with experience in this swap that can give me anything
to look out for? I believe I will need to swap out the rear cross member
to clear the bottom of my new c6. I also have an open knuckle front end
I'm going to put under it and would like to convert to power steering at
the same time. I have a power gear box from a 79 1 ton van I'd like to
use. Has anyone tried that conversion? I know I have allot of questions
here and hope to get this thing back on the road soon. Thanks in
advance.
Craig
72 F350 crew cab 4x4, being resurrected.

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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 13:20:18 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine swap radiator qustion

> My question is this, the truck came with a very large radiator
> for a 360 and a 4 sp. I have a smaller radiator out of a 390 c6 2x
> truck. Will this radiator keep up with my big block? If not what can I
> swap in?

Well check that the inlet and outlet are on the side they need to be for
your hoses to line up ... and what sort of power are you puttin out from the
460 ? I don't think a mostly stock 460 will prove any problem for a 390
radiator ... though I oversized mine, its still keepin it under 200 in even
the hottest conditions ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 11:36:12 -0800
From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines

Howdy Folks,
The type of brake line that I was referring to was the stainless steel hard
lines. Sounded like a cool idea to me. Would look good & wouldn't rust, what
more is there. Oh year, you've got to flare them and need a $500.00+ machine
to do it.
> Patsplace
> 78 F-150 W/Overloads
> 77 F-250 4X4
> 79 F-250 4X4 Dream Truck Under Way
> 72 F150 Ranger parts truck
> 79 F250 Lariat donor vech. for the '79 4X4

You can buy pre-bent stainless steel hard lines from Classic Tubing I
believe it is and another one I can't recall but these are flared on a
machine which maintains the integrity of the metal during the flare process.
If you want to make your own you are much better off using aluminized mild
steel line form what I've been told and read about it.

>I think the mags are referring to stainless steel BRAIDED
>brake lines. ------------------------------




== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:36:49 -0800
From: John Lord home.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - body dipping

The 1967 Merc 3/4 ton i own was in a front end accident just before i bought
it.
the owner replaced the entire nose. He had the replaement parts stripped and
Cadmium plated (gold colored) then had all the parts painted with epoxy
paint.

I have noticed that after 10 years their is no sign of rust pn the inner
fenders but their is a rust bubble forming just in front of the drivers
door. apparently either the plating wasnt good enough there or their was
something in the support for the pannel that prevented plating. The black
epoxy paint was only put on the nose and it is the toughest paint ive ever
seen but it does not hold a shine no matter what i try.

I do not know what this would cost. but it looks like my inner fenders will
last for a hundred years or so, and i would recomend it on the parts that
tend to cause problems. All inner fenders in the 70's were Galvanized. It is
not quite as good as Cadmium plating. but both are a good idea for problem
parts.

"D. DiMartino" wrote:

> all this talk about paint made me start kicking around the idea
> of how much it would cost to have the body of a p/u dipped and
> stripped in an industrial type facility. anyone know how much?
> seen 'em advertized in HMN, but they don't give you an idea of
> price. i get scared when they say "affordable" cuz i'm not
> rich, just wondering.
>
> =====
> Daniel DiMartino
> yahoo.com>
> 1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 19:26:14 EST
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL

Hiya guys! Long time no see! I've been lurkin lately cuz I haven't had much
to say LOL But now I got a question for y'all! Here goes: Many a time I have
been extremely low on gas "RNNONMT"hehe No one better steal that!!> Anyways, once I almost ran outta
gas LOL Anyways, how low can
the thingie get on your gas gauge before you'll be SOL on the side of the
road? My thoughts are that when I top off my tank, the thingie goes PAST the
Full line, sooooo....if I'm bone dry wouldn't the thingie go past the empty
line Anything will help y'all! Thanks!

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 18:45:40 -0600
From: "Freewheel" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL

The only way to know for sure is to run out of gas, most gas gauges are not
very accurate in the extremes.......meaning at full or empty
Larry


ICQ# 3156803

Stephen Hawking: "The 50-50-90 rule: Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of
getting
something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong."

- ----- Original Message -----
From: aol.com>
To: ford-trucks.com>; <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 6:26 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL


> Hiya guys! Long time no see! I've been lurkin lately cuz I haven't had
much
> to say LOL But now I got a question for y'all! Here goes: Many a time I
have
> been extremely low on gas > "RNNONMT"hehe No one better steal that!!> Anyways, once I almost ran outta
> gas LOL Anyways, how low can
> the thingie get on your gas gauge before you'll be SOL on the side of the
> road? My thoughts are that when I top off my tank, the thingie goes PAST
the
> Full line, sooooo....if I'm bone dry wouldn't the thingie go past the
empty
> line Anything will help y'all!
Thanks!
>
> *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
> *~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 22:59:47 -0800
From: MC pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Just a dumb girlie question LOL

The only way to know for sure is to run it out of gas on purpose one
time. Then you know. On my '70, the gauge reads about 3/4 full when it's
totally full, and well below "E" when empty. My '76 used to be about the
same, but the gauge quit working at all about 4 months ago, so I just
guess now. Checking with the odometer doesn't work for me either,
because the speedo will work when I first take off (the needle bounces
around, but it gives me a rough idea) but sooner or later, it usually
decides that it is working too hard and gives up. I don't care what the
speedo thinks, but I know I'm doing more that 0 mph when I pass all them
C*%&ies!

- --
Matt Cozad

The Force. It surrounds us. It enfolds us. It gets us dates on Saturday
Nights. - Obi Wan Kenobi, Famous Jedi Knight and Party Animal.

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End of 61-79-list-digest V4 #28
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