61-79-list-digest V4 #24

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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, January 18 2000 Volume 04 : Number 024

=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines
FTE 61-79 - mpg improvements / air dams
FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help!
FTE 61-79 - RE: AFTE - Re: Comments and Thanks, AFTE's contribution...
RE: FTE 61-79 - Gas mileage in Ford Trucks
FTE 61-79 - $25 Van Looks Great
Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 Power Steering Pump Bracket
RE: FTE 61-79 - mpg improvements / air dams
RE: FTE 61-79 - Long Term Tire Storage
RE: FTE 61-79 - 360 to AOD questions
RE: Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
RE: FTE 61-79 - poping carb after a cold start up
RE: FTE 61-79 - poping carb after a cold start up
RE: FTE 61-79 - heart of a truck
FTE 61-79 - long term tire storage
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rust resistant coatings for the ages
RE: FTE 61-79 - Scary
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!!
[none]
FTE 61-79 - Nice weekend...:-)
FTE 61-79 - Choke Stove
RE: FTE 61-79 - Choke Stove
RE: FTE 61-79 - Nice weekend...symptoms question ...
FTE 61-79 - Dashes
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE:Project justification, Passions....
FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts
FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wiper sw
FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting
FTE 61-79 - Timing chain
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts
RE: FTE 61-79 - $25 Van Looks Great
RE: FTE 61-79 - Nice weekend...:-), correction :-)
Re: FTE 61-79 - $25 Van Looks Great
FTE 61-79 - Cincinatti List Members????
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion
RE: FTE 61-79 - Nice weekend...symptoms question ...
FTE 61-79 - window sticker"??
FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79 symptoms question ...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Canadian Fords and manuals???
FTE 61-79 - 300 6 Cyl block
RE: FTE 61-79 - 300 6 Cyl block
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!!

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 07:41:29 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!!

It's still best to drop the front of the pan enough to allow the front seal
to center itself without pressure from the pan pushing it off center or the
front seal will leak. If the gasket doesn't tear you may be able to re-use
it and simply tighten the bolts back up after tightening the timing cover
bolts but the timing cover should always be installed before the pan when
assembing an engine for this reason. When you do a repair you have to
decide how much work you want to go to and if you decide to leave the pan
tight you can use a pry bar to "offset" some of the pressure of the pan
gaskets on the cover as you tighten the bolts but this is risky since it
would be just a guess on your part as to how much pressure to apply.

I had to do this after very carefully assembling a 460 when the timing cover
sprung a coolant leak and had to be repaired. I used this repair kit but
was unable to get the cover in the position I wanted in the short time I had
to work on it so just slapped it in there and bolted it down. I've had
trouble with that seal ever since due to the fact that dirt got in around it
and ruined the seal area and now the crank is shot as well so you get what
you pay for, in this case the price is more work.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

> Don't drive it at all! You could wind up with valves hitting pistons.
>
> You can R&R the timing set without dropping the pan, they
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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:21:35 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines

I just ordered a roll of 3/16 line for the bronco. I'm tired of leaking
fittings and lumps of brass all over the place. I wound up flaring several
fittings anyway to get it all to fit the way I wanted so flaring a few ends
doesn't even begin to bother me as much as all those adapters and fittings
do.

25' roll of aluminized and zink coated tubing cost me $12 which is enough to
do the whole truck and then some. If I'm carefull not to scratch it all up
the coating should keep the rust under control till I can get around to
painting it. I'm going to pick up a couple of cans of self etching primer
while I'm at it and spray the fittings after I'm done to keep the scratches
from rusting. Double flaring is a tricky thing to learn but once you get
the feel for it you can do a good flare virtually every time. I only
noticed a couple of things which were not brought out in the instructions
which come with the kit and these "refinements" made all the difference :-)

New, unbent lines you buy at auto parts stores are bare steel and rust
instantly. Within 6 months there will already be very evident pitting.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

> Joe aol.com> said:
> >Anyone had any experience with any companies that offer pre
> bent brake lines?
>
>
> Before I knew better, I ordered a pre-bent line for my
> Falcon.
>
> However, I quickly found out that you can buy unbent lines at any good
> parts store. These lines already have the flares and fittings
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 07:46:32 -0600
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - mpg improvements / air dams

>>I read an article once where they attmpted to get more mileage from a van
and two of the things they did were to cover the grill with screen and they
gained 1 or 2 mpg and instead of a ground effects spoiler they used duct
tape and cardboard and covered everything under the van so that it was
smooth and flat except for the drive shaft and picked up another 1-2. I
don't remember the numbers but do remember that both of these netted an
improvement on the highway.<<

My Towncar has a little air dam underneath it that routes the air flow
around the suspension and frame etc. Supposedly a little air dam like this
accomplishes as much as ground effects for a street machine. Full ground
effects will help air flow, but also get broken off very easily on a truck
used as a truck.

Covering the grille with screen will raise the head pressure on you air
conditioner. This may or may not be a problem.

- -- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 09:17:25 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: AFTE - Re: Comments and Thanks, AFTE's contribution...

Well gang, the deadline is past and I counted up what I have so far which
totals $365 plus my contribution. I will check the box one more time
tonight and add what ever it there into the pile and my contribution and
send Ken a check. All payments will be entered into the AFTE account as
deposits (one large one) and I will deduct that amount as cash and send a
check on my personal account to Ken so there is a record of the transaction
and each person who contributed will be logged into the data base as a
transaction for our records. At this point I still believe this to be the
best way to handle things, cost wise.

My data base has separate records for each transaction so any money you send
to the club will be recorded for the person, amount, check no, date and
purpose. At this time all contributions are private and only I have access
to the information. According to our bylaws, the officers also have a right
to see the information but no one else has that right. Please keep this in
mind when sending any money to the AFTE. We will keep your business private
except for this one stipulation.

I'm not sure about the 1099 and other stuff at this point but anyone who
wants to itemize his contributions and needs a receipt need only email me
and I will mail you one. Churches tyically send out notices to people I
believe usually but for the most part contributions receipts are the
responsibility of the contributor so I don't plan at this time to mail them
across the board, but will be happy to on request. Input on this issue will
be appreciated :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

> Gang,
>
> The 14th was the deadline for the charity event. I've got
> a total of about $500. Gary, how much did you get? Attached
> is a recent email from one of the benefactors of the event.
> I'm afraid we're not going to be able to buy the laptop unless
> we get a used one. Anyone have any ideas?
>
> Ken Payne
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 09:34:14 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Gas mileage in Ford Trucks

Numbers I've seen are usually around 10-12 but some have claimed to get up
to 16 on the highway. Since my 351W in a very non-aerodynamic van got 16
when fresh with a C-6 and 3.50 gears I will guess that it is possible to do
this with 390 as well but not an easy chore to say the least in most cases.

What I've determined in my experience is that a 5000 pound truck with a
blunt nose will burn x amount of gas no matter what engine you stick in it
with very little difference, especially if you make any attempt to get the
same performance out of it. My personal phylosophy is that if I have to
give up the economy anyway why not have some fun while I'm at it so I run
the biggest engine I can fit and try to tune it for best economy which
usually nets about the same mileage as the small blocks in the same
application but I get a lot more torque and better throttle response in the
deal so....... enjoy your 390 and work at the little details that make it
more economical to run.

IMNSHO, if you get less than 10 you need to do some work somewhere on it.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

> Question:
> More or less how much mpg can I expect to get from my 77' 4x4 390cid
> shortbed, f-100? (stock)
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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 06:45:55 -0800
From: Carver ncwebsurfer.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - $25 Van Looks Great

I did a drive by look at the '64 Falcon van
last night, and I can't believe that I am
passing it up (or rather not able to get it).

It is in really good shape. Original paint,
even two of the original white/red hubcaps!

Just one small crinkle in the passenger door,
and that's about it.

Front end NOT crunched as vans tend to be.

Again, call Michael 530-268-7462.
I think he's is being forced to get rid
of his vehicles from the parking lot
they are being stored in.

The Granada is in good shape too.
It costs about $1000 to ship a vehicle
across the country, BTW.

Jeff '64 D100 CrewCab

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 09:38:31 EST
From: OldTrux

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 Power Steering Pump Bracket

If you find one for a FE, let me know!!
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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:39:00 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - mpg improvements / air dams

> Covering the grille with screen will raise the head pressure on you air
> conditioner. This may or may not be a problem.
>

hehehhe ... the only way to "strain" my air conditioner is to leave the
windows up :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:41:16 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Long Term Tire Storage

> Anyone know the best way to store tires to avoid dry-rot, flatspots,
> etc?
> These tires often sit for months at a time, right now I have
> them in the warm basement on wood palates standing up right, inflated
> to normal pressure covered with blankets. Love that smell in my
> basement! Anyone have any other tips on how to preserve these?
>

This question came up for race tires as well, we dont' autocross much in the
winter, so the tires just sit ... the best thing we came up with (cheap of
course) was to just lay them flat in the basement where they were warmish
(of course mine are still in the garage 'cause I'm lazy) ... anyway the
biggest thing was laying them flat, if you stand them up like they normally
are on a vehicle you are more likely to end up with flat spots ... a bigger
deal for the softer compound race tires, but still a deal for regular tires
too (harder to get flat spots out of a harder tire )

Hope this helps...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:44:28 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 360 to AOD questions

> I have a 72 f-100 with a 360 and 3 speed manual transmission. I'm
> running 3.50:1 gears in the rear end and it sucks alot of gas.
> I was wanting to put
> somekind of overdrive transmission in it to make it more highway worthy.
> Is there anything that will work? Does anyone make an adapter for a FE
> block to bolt to an AOD?

Sorry, no AOD's or OD's for a light truck here ... the FE has a unique
bellhousing bolt pattern, so there wont' be a tranny you can just bolt in
...

There are OD units that bolt onto the rear of the tranny, some of the guys
on the list have them, or might know where to find one ...

If you have a 2wd, you might consider switching the rearend for one with
some steeper gears, the 3.50's are great for a 4x4 and such, but probably
overkill for a 2wd that doesn't see much towing duty ... it will make it
seem doggier around town, but will lower the revs and hopefully get you
better mileage (depending on driving habits of course)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:46:11 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.

> > Check an '80 to '86 f-series
> >
> > Do they plug into the earlier harness?
>

There is a tech article on the FTE site about this.

I replaced the intermittent box on my sister's truck last Christmas. Dad
figured it was the only thing missing on her truck and bought her the switch
and box, only available from Ford unfortunately ... turned out she had the
stuff already just that the box was burned out, so I got a switch for
Christmas :) I still haven't gotten the box yet ($50 if I remember right,
Ford only part new)...

Oh yeah, her truck is a 91 ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:48:36 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - poping carb after a cold start up

> When i start my 74 F250 4x4
> with a 360 in the mornings or after it has been sitting for a few hours
> and i go to drive a way the carb pops and the motor bogs down almost
> dieing.

Sorry, no quick fixes here ... I would check to be sure that the choke is
closing all the way, it sounds like you're leaning out and then get a lean
backfire, which is common with a choke that isn't functioning quite right
...

The other option is of course a bad power valve, or so I've been told, my
truck did this, I just learned to live with it ... usually it cleared up
after a minute or so ... my ultimate answer of course was a 4V and a new
carb :) but that doesn't fix your problem ... I'd check the choke and the
power valve, after that how old is the carb and has it ever been rebuilt ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 09:48:32 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - poping carb after a cold start up

This sounds very much like the well documented "Leaking intake valve"
syndrome but could be any of several other things as well. If it pops all
the time it is most likely a burned intake valve and in that case I would
say severely burned or leaking but if it only pops when you accellerate it
could be timing, lean mixture, or intakes beginning to leak. If it goes
away when warm then it still could be any of these.

Playing with the choke is a good way to eliminate the lean mixture as a
source but if you have no luck with the choke I'm led toward the intake
valve again. Timing that far off would typically show up when you try to
crank it either as a "Kick" if advanced or a backfire if retarded. A
retarded spark will generally not "pop" but "pooffff" so again I'm leaning
toward the intake valves which typically have a very sharp pop sound and
usually leak more under accelleration and when cold. At first it's just a
little "tick" but later develops into full blown back firing with all the
little pop degrees in between as it worsens.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

> Hi everyone, got a quick question for you. When i start my
> 74 F250 4x4
> with a 360 in the mornings or after it has been sitting for a
> few hours
> and i go to drive a way the carb pops and the motor bogs down almost
> dieing. If i keep it revved up to about 2000 when i take off then the
> popping does not occur all the time, but any time the rpms are about
> 1000 and i go to take off it pops away and bogs down hard.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:51:09 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - heart of a truck

Gary :

> What is the "Heart" of an engine? Or...What gives an engine "Heart" more
> than any other single component on it? (I can't wait for the arguments on
> this one :-))

Azie :
> > Cams can/will make a lot of difference in usable HP if all
> > else remains
> > constant.
> >

I think we are on two different lines of thought here ... if you think of
the heart as the part of your body circulating the blood, you gotta say the
heart of a motor is the oil pump, circulating the oil, without oil, as with
blood, the motor dies ... you could probably even run a motor on blood, but
that would probably violate some emissions reg ...

Azie seems to have mentioned the cam, and I think what you're going for here
is that the cam will make one of the biggest differences in the way the
motor behaves, hence its non-physical heart (more like soul ? ) ... anyway
gettin too deep for what feels like a Mon. mornin for me ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:50:39 -0600
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - long term tire storage

>>These tires often sit for months at a time, right now I have
them in the warm basement on wood palates standing up right, inflated
to normal pressure covered with blankets. Love that smell in my
basement! Anyone have any other tips on how to preserve these?<<

WICoWbOy,
Sounds like everything is in order, except I would lay them horizontal, as
in on the sidewall. Even uninflated I would do this. With them upright, all
of the weight is on the contact patch. Storing for 4 to 6 months will
probably not make a difference from what you are doing now. If you do go
flat and decide to stack, place a piece of cardboard between each tire.

- -- John
jlagrone

aol.com wrote:
>
> > Thanks you guys for the ideas. I solved it so I thought I better let you
> > know how it ended (not a pretty sight). As it turns out it was the timing
> > chain slipped a tooth. This is how it played out. Before lunch I was
> > starting to think that maybe it was having a carburetor problem that was
> > flooding it. I removed the fuel line from the pump and carburetor allows it
> > to rest the tried a little starting fluid. I got the most meager pop or two.
> > I talked to the owner and deduced that the new tune-up parts were from the
> > previous mechanics attempt to repair by changing parts. Then I cam in and
> > read the recent posts. George said something about ruling out the timing
> > unless the distributor was turned all the way over. I thought to myself that
> > the previous mechanic may have moved the distributor to its present position.
> > Which was as far clockwise as it would turn? I went back out now that the
> > engine was not flooded and cranked while turning the distributor. The engine
> > tried to fire a little when pushed to Max clockwise. So I lifted the
> > distributor and moved it one tooth. The engine started right up. I drove it
> > down the street and it is very gutless but I don't know how bad it was before
> > I started.
> >
> > I guess I will have to install the timing chain for him. Even if it runs OK
> > now I imagine that the chain will slip again. Once the car warms up and is
> > put under a real load. It is a shame to waste the money on a timing chain
> > for this engine. The compression check I did showed 73-95. Aren't these
> > motors supposed to have about 125? I tried to convince him we should go find
> > a junkyard engine for about $300 and he would be better off. But this is all
> > the money the guy has.
> >
> > Thanks for the help everyone and it was fun to do this on the web.
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
Craig
- --
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 11:14:56 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!!

66 289 had them for sure, I got one free from my dad due to this. He didn't
want to fool with it :-) Put in new gears and drove it for a couple years
after that :-) Seems like the 61 250 had them also....

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

> Nylon gears? Has it been that long? I don't remeber nylon in
> a '67 289.
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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 11:22:22 -0500
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: [none]

S. Harkema writes: >>What scares me is that sometimes I see the same
picture as Gary :)<<

You need help, S. and you need it now....

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 11:12:31 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Nice weekend...:-)

Well, got a lot of work done this weekend. Put up some shelves to clear off
my new work bench in the back room so I can start rebuilding my NP435 spare
and got the parts washer moved in there too for convenience. Ordered the
parts for $300 from Tom's broncos which should be here in a day or so.

Took a load to the dump so now I can actually walk around the whole barn and
roll my welders anywhere in the building as needed :-)

Became an EFI guru too :-) My son's escourt wouldn't run and wouldn't idle
so he wanted me to help him put in a new clutch. He didn't understand how
it all worked so assumed because pressing the clutch and holding the gas
pedal down made the engine run that the cluch had something to do with the
problem. The clutch was fine but the throttle stop was not right so I
adjusted that and it idled, perhaps the dash pot is worn out, not sure. The
air duct was cracked half way across letting unfiltered air in and also
bypassing the air flow sensor in the air filter housing (at least I assume
that's it's function??) so now I assumed.....that the sensor was not seeing
all the air flow so was short changing the mixure causing it to run lean.
In any case a simple throttle stop adjustment and some duct tape seems to
have cured his "Clutch" problem :-)

When changing my daughter's 97 truck air cleaner I found a pretty large,
well designed filter in there and the motorcraft version is actually cheaper
than the off brands or store brands by about 1/2 so get the motor craft air
filters if they are available :-) Putting the housing back together was a
real pain with that stupid barrel clamp affair.......:-(

Took a look at the extensions I need for trucks on my lift and determined
that the 5/8 holes in each ear is for a pin to secure the extension. I
designed them so that they have additional support in the vertical direction
to take all the bending load off the ears and secured them with a 5/8 bolt.
This was necessary due to the length of the extension.........13"! WoW!
And that was a compromise! To match the front ear tipped up to about 5" to
clear the nurf bars the rear one needed to be 14" but I lopped off 1" to
reduce the leverage on it. This may not seem like much but I wanted to make
it as short as I could live with to make it safer so every inch helps in
that respect :-) Considering a 4x4 truck to weigh 5000 pounds we divide by
4 and get 1250 pounds per ear but now multiply this force through a 13"
extension or arm and the numbers add up real fast on the 1/2" pin that holds
the ears on the lift arm......Scary thought!

Anyway I'm pretty happy with my design and will test it next time I lift her
truck to work on it. The extensions are made from 2X6" rectangular tubing
with 1/4" walls, pretty stout stuff. The ear pin is the weak point in the
whole arrangement.

That $130 propane heater did a good job of keeping the chill off but at zero
outside and some wind it barely kept the shop liveable even with two layers
of clothing on. One improvement over my old shop I noticed though was my
toes didn't get cold from the floor. The heater couldn't keep the air warm
but due to radiant heat effects it did warm the floor and wood and metal
parts "in" the room so it worked out pretty well. At 200 BTU though this
baby eats gas like I eat jelly beans but for short deals like week end
marathons it's worth it to me. On warmer days (30 or so) I can let it run
full for a couple of hours and then I have to turn it down because it
actually gets too hot to work comfortably and the tools are easy to handle
too which is the nice thing about radiant heat, the tools get warm even when
the air isn't :-)

As I already mentioned I ordered a roll of 3/16" brake line for $12 to try
to eliminate the air leak I am struggling with right now. We'll take it one
step at a time, lines first then we go back through all the cylinders and
clean them up even though they are all new....

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:39:22 -0800
From: "Robert Gunter" icnpharm.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Choke Stove

Greetings all,

I have a problem that many of you probably have faced or are heading towards.
The choke stove on my 77 Ford E250 460 ci has corroded away. The line going
from the top of the carb is good, but under the insullation, the return line to
the choke has completely discintegrated.

These may be different in other models, but the way this one works is that
filtered air is tranported into the manifold to the right side of the carb into
a flange. The return line comes out of the flange and into the choke via an
insullated line. Under the insullation all sorts of bad things happen
(corrosion), accelerated by the the heat.

Ford says they don't make the part and I'm on my own. Any suggestions? I
searched the archive and didn't find much.

Thanks,

Rob G.

The Mystery Machine is a 77 Ford E250 Quadravan, 460 ci, 3.73 gears with a C6
Tranny.

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 10:56:26 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Choke Stove

> Ford says they don't make the part and I'm on my own. Any suggestions? I
> searched the archive and didn't find much.
>

Hit the "HELP!" section of your parts store ... they should have everything
you need there to rebuild the line ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 11:05:17 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Nice weekend...symptoms question ...

> The clutch was fine but the throttle stop was not right so I
> adjusted that and it idled, perhaps the dash pot is worn out, not
> sure.

Not generally a recommended procedure, but hey, if it works ...

> The
> air duct was cracked half way across letting unfiltered air in and also
> bypassing the air flow sensor in the air filter housing (at least I assume
> that's it's function??) so now I assumed.....that the sensor was
> not seeing
> all the air flow so was short changing the mixure causing it to run lean.

Did you try setting the throttle stop back after you patched the intake
hose? You are correct, that would cause it to run amazingly lean ... and by
putting his foot on the floor he was forcing it to run at WOT settings which
trys for a straight fuel/air ratio and pretty much ignores whether its lean
or rich and just pukes as close to 14:1 or whatever as it can ... pretty
rich if you ask most tuners, but since he had the air leak (behind the MAF)
it would've probably still been lean, but livable ... depending on year of
course, if its too old then it doesn't have a MAF and is a speed density
system which unfiltered air doesn't matter on at all ...

> Took a look at the extensions I need for trucks on my lift and determined
> that the 5/8 holes in each ear is for a pin to secure the extension.

I don't have any idea what you're talking about here ... is this 'cause
trucks are longer than cars generally ? or what sort of extension ?

My weekend was marginally productive as well... got the Bronco II back on
the road, unfortunately I haven't actually fixed anything really, just put
it back together after finding out I couldn't fix it myself ...

Here's a question for you guys, along with a myriad of other problems,
here's the one that' i've got highest on my priority list :

Ticking ... lifter tick I'm pretty sure ...

Cold start, some lifter clatter, but its a 120K motor that's never been
rebuilt I'm sure ... goes away right away and there's an exhaust tick ...
after the exhaust heats up the tick is gone ...

Drive for a few minutes of pleasant driving with plenty of power and no
ticking ... suddenly starts bogging as it warms up, then poof a tick starts
up and you get a lifter tick ....

Also after an oil change, a week later the oil is BLACK and doesn't look
like its ever been changed, its possible the mechanic just told her he
changed it and didn't really, but the oil filter looked new, so I doubt it
...

After its been running for a while, if I accidently lug the engine
(<1000rpm's) the oil light will flicker on, and it did rod knock a couple
times, though that seems to have stopped now ...

To me, it sounds like the oil pickup on the bottom of the screen is clogging
up and that the pan needs cleaned out and the pickup replaced ...

Does anyone have any other ideas ? its a 2.9L, but I figure these symptoms
are pretty common across the board (ignore the bogging and such, I'm pretty
sure that's EGR and cold/warm transition related...)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 12:26:56 -0500
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dashes

Chris Samuels writyes: >> Will the 79 instrument cluster just plug into
the 75? <<

Yes, provided they are both guages or both idiot lights.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 11:59:20 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE:Project justification, Passions....

My wife tried it when I was younger and she was able but I had a bad temper,
more like I got frustrated easily, and tended to throw things so she wisely
opted to stay out of the way :-(

Now I have this all under control and I believe we could actually enjoy this
experience but she is too ill to even sit with me in the cold and the
cleaner and gas and exhaust smells make her sick etc.. The fact that she is
now addicted to the internet has absolutely nothing to do with it......of
course :-)

Passion is ageless, either you got it or you don't :-) Shops, tools and
knowhow on the other hand are a result of aging.....the longer you live the
more of these you accumulate :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

> My bride of 14+ years used to get upset with me because I spent so
> much time in the garage. So I bought her a pair of insulated
> coveralls.
> Sitting around the house ain't in my make-up. neither is watching TV.
>
> But when I gave her the coveralls, she got the clue, "Try spending
> some time with me"
>
> You've got ten + years on me, but I think we're close to the
> same age,
> in our wants and needs anyway.....
>
> Steve & the Rockette
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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 11:50:23 -0600
From: ballingr

bootheel.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts

Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the
Comp
Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was
looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in
diameter. I
think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at
Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price.

Thanks,

- - -Ted

I don't know the dimension, but Federal Mogul makes replacement shafts. I
bought the solid lifter style that just has the holes on the bottom for $13
each. You should be able to get them from your local parts house. If the
rockers are specified to work on stock shafts I would go with these.

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 12:52:47 -0500
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wiper sw

Robert Bowen writes: >>Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck that
had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch?<<

My 1976 F150 Bicentenial edition 4X4 had Intermittent, so it was an option
as far back as '76 for sure. Turned clockwise for low/high and counter
clockwise for intermittent(or vise versa).

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 12:10:29 -0600
From: ballingr

bootheel.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting

When an engine jumps time, it's not the ignition timing but the valve
timing that has the problem. If a valve is open on a compression stroke,
there will be no compression, hence no combustion. A worn timing set can
allow the timing chain to jump a tooth as his mechanic suggests. Once in
a 302 I had the key in the lower timing gear give way allowing the gear
to slip a little on the crankshaft, and had much the same results as
you've described. There are a number of other things that could be the
cause of this too.
>>>>>>

I had one come to me that had jumped time with new chain and gear that the
guy and a neighbor put in. I checked it and it was way off. Pulled it down
and found that they had left out the dowel in the cam that engages it to the
gear. All that was holding it was the bolt.

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 12:59:22 -0500
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Timing chain

Bob Suggs. Has the timing chain/gears ever been replaced??? If not then
that is your best bet. The side of coil should go to Dist as you
noted. If you are getting fire at the plugs and gas in the cyl, then
timing is all that is left...

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 13:27:37 -0500
From: tfreeman

murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts

Thanks,

I'll check that out!

- -Ted

Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the
Comp
Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was
looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in
diameter. I
think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at
Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price.

Thanks,

- - -Ted

I don't know the dimension, but Federal Mogul makes replacement shafts. I
bought the solid lifter style that just has the holes on the bottom for $13
each. You should be able to get them from your local parts house. If the
rockers are specified to work on stock shafts I would go with these.

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 10:40:29 -0800
From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - $25 Van Looks Great

Why does this kind of stuff show up when I already have a dead car in the
garage?!? ARGH!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Carver [mailto:carver

ncwebsurfer.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 6:46 AM
To: 61-79 Ford Trucks
Subject: FTE 61-79 - $25 Van Looks Great

I did a drive by look at the '64 Falcon van
last night, and I can't believe that I am
passing it up (or rather not able to get it).

It is in really good shape. Original paint,
even two of the original white/red hubcaps!

Just one small crinkle in the passenger door,
and that's about it.

Front end NOT crunched as vans tend to be.

Again, call Michael 530-268-7462.
I think he's is being forced to get rid
of his vehicles from the parking lot
they are being stored in.

The Granada is in good shape too.
It costs about $1000 to ship a vehicle
across the country, BTW.

Jeff '64 D100 CrewCab

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 13:54:52 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Nice weekend...:-), correction :-)

Oh boy! Better fix this before I get flamed.....

"At 200,000 BTU...."

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --

> parts "in" the room so it worked out pretty well. At 200 BTU
> though this
> baby eats gas like I eat jelly beans but for short deals like week end
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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 12:57:16 -0800
From: wicowboy gateway.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - $25 Van Looks Great

> Again, call Michael 530-268-7462.
> I think he's is being forced to get rid
> of his vehicles from the parking lot
> they are being stored in.

Tried Calling the number but it says its disconnected.....

WICowboy
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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 13:58:20 EST
From: BDIJXS

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cincinatti List Members????

Anyone near Cincinatti????? We'll be there next week and weekend (24th
through about the 1st or so).....

Usual offer: I'll pay for the meal if you show up in your truck!!! (Actually,
I'll buy anyway!!!!!!!)

Please send me a message if you think you'll have some time. I'd invite
Marino over, but I'm not sure if that ol' highboy would make it that far
west...with that six banger and all......also seemed like there was something
about wheels falling off or something....(hows that for taunting)....

CJ
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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 11:01:41 -0800
From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion

The 4WD frame is narrower than the 2WD frame in the front section on the
'78's. If you mount an extended cab on a stock frame you end up with about
4-5' of box space and a very different looking truck. Converting the other
way is beyond my understanding, what with the frame and cross member
modifications. You may need a different oil pan for mounting your motor in a
4X4 frame (You do with a 460). Good luck and keep us posted on what you do.
Patsplace
> > > 78 F-150 W/Overloads
> > > 77 F-250 4X4
> > > 79 F-250 4X4 Dream Truck Under Way
> > > 72 F150 Ranger parts truck
> > > 79 F250 Lariat donor vech. for the '79 4X4

> Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 06:54:54 -0800 (PST)
> From: "D. DiMartino" yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion
>
> - --- NTesla333

aol.com wrote:
> >
> > . Is the 2WD frame the
> > same as the 4WD,
> > if not this option probably would not work.
>
> no they are not, i have looked into this as i am going to swap a
> cab and bed to a 4x4 frame. i have talked to many on an off
> list and this is the easiest way to go. 2x4 frames will require
> modifications to except the 4x4 running gear.
>
> > 3) I could strip the regular cab 4WD down to the frame and
> > running gear. I
> > have been told that I could cut the regular cab and add to it
> > for the
> > additional length needed for the extended cab. Then, I could
> > bolt my extended
> > cab, and bed to the lengthened frame and swap motors.

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 13:56:53 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Nice weekend...symptoms question ...

> > The clutch was fine but the throttle stop was not right so I
> > adjusted that and it idled, perhaps the dash pot is worn out, not
> > sure.
>
> Not generally a recommended procedure, but hey, if it works ...
>
> Did you try setting the throttle stop back after you patched
> the intake
> hose?

There is no apparent computer control for this function. It appears to be a
mechanical stop mitigated by a calibrated dashpot which is self contained.
Since the idle speed did not change I saw no reason to re-adjust it but I
believe the dashpot may be worn so that it no longer homes to the same
position which is why it needed adjustment.

> > Took a look at the extensions I need for trucks on my lift
> and determined
> > that the 5/8 holes in each ear is for a pin to secure the extension.

The extensions are for the curve in the rear of truck frames where it curves
up about 8" from the center portion to allow for the rear leaf springs and
shackles. Older trucks were longer in the center section so you could
usually get the arms to fit but the newer ones are shorter in the center so
the only place left to set the ears is on the upper portion or the leaf
spring itself if you can get access to it and it's not at too great an angle
for safety. This is actually how I did the oil change this time and it
wasn't actually a bad way to go but leaf springs are not designed to handle
a load in that direction and if the shackle happened to be in the front (not
usually) then it would be very unstable so the extensions allow me to go
direct to the frame but pose their own safety problems which is why I had to
be carefull how I designed them. I believe they will work fine but the test
will come when I get the second one done :-)

> Drive for a few minutes of pleasant driving with plenty of
> power and no
> ticking ... suddenly starts bogging as it warms up, then poof
> a tick starts
> up and you get a lifter tick ....

The ticking you mention which goes away after it warms up and then the power
goes away again when it is fully up to temp indicates a bad exhaust valve in
my experience. In these little aluminum engines the noise is hard to
diagnose too I think, at least it is for me.

As far as the oil pressure, the screen could be suspect simply due to the
mileage so if it's not too hard to get to it wouldn't hurt to take a look
for sure, I would if I were in that boat. As I recall though the bronco
II's are not easy to work in under there? The engines and transmissions
used in the early bronco II's were prone to problems. 86 was a bad year for
Ford in many of it's lines including the bronco II. My son had one and they
apparently used several different flywheels, bell housings and spacers for
the same application on them so that there was always a lot of confusion
when trying to get parts. Darned shame too, I really liked that little
truck and I'm seriously thinking about getting one and fixing it up. Seats
weren't too strong though, the kids bent the snot out of them just reaching
for their wallets at fast food places, twisted the bejeebies right out of
them. (big kids :-))

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
- --
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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 14:39:37 -0500
From: joe delaurentis p3.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - window sticker"??

Group \
anybody know whe reproduces the 67-72 truck window sticker..
I know there reproduced for the Mustangs(have one for my 69) are they
even
done yet??Or does anybody have a scan of one that i can modify????

- --
Joe
68 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes,
Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own!

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 13:44:12 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79 symptoms question ...

> There is no apparent computer control for this function. It
> appears to be a
> mechanical stop mitigated by a calibrated dashpot which is self contained.

It is, but its possible to open that up too far and suddenly the idle-air
circuit will be overwhelmed by the throttle body's opening and you will lose
your idle control ... if your idle likes to stick at 1500 or so, its usually
the idle air control valve from what I've seen ... clean that up and you
should be good to go, or just get a new one to bolt on ...

> > Drive for a few minutes of pleasant driving with plenty of
> > power and no
> > ticking ... suddenly starts bogging as it warms up, then poof
> > a tick starts
> > up and you get a lifter tick ....
>
> The ticking you mention which goes away after it warms up and
> then the power
> goes away again when it is fully up to temp indicates a bad
> exhaust valve in
> my experience.

Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear on that, it quits bogging and stuff and runs
just fine except for the tick ... it may be down on power, but with the tick
I obviously don't hit it as hard and the whole "noise" think makes it seem
like there's less power since its not a good sound ...

Is there a quick way to check this ? I suppose a compression test might
show it? This is one of those "for a friend" projects that isn't supposed
to suck up all her money ... but its turnign out to be A LOT of little
things wrong with it, not expensive usually, just a pain ...

> In these little aluminum engines the noise is hard to
> diagnose too I think, at least it is for me.
>

Yup, the narrow block and stuff doesn't help, as all the parts are crammed
together so even picking out which bank of cylinders is next to impossible.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 11:45:31 -0800
From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Canadian Fords and manuals???

Howdy Folks,
Seeing Mike's posting made me wonder whether anyone can explain why it is
that the '79 Ford Light Truck Manual (body, chassis and Electrical) shows a
three bolt mounted power steering box that is supposed to be the same up to
the '350's including the 4X4's and my '79 and all of the 78 4X4's that I've
looked at, all had the 4 bolt mounting fwd. of the engine on the boxed
section of the driver's side frame rail. Anybody know what's goin' on"?
Patsplace
> > > 78 F-150 W/Overloads
> > > 77 F-250 4X4
> > > 79 F-250 4X4 Dream Truck Under Way
> > > 72 F150 Ranger parts truck
> > > 79 F250 Lariat donor vech. for the '79 4X4

- ----------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 11:04:11 -0800
From: "Mike Sealey" <75.f150

angelfire.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Canadian Fords and manuals???

On Wed, 15 Dec 1999 14:14:41 Daniel DiMartino wrote:
>
> are there any differences between canadian fords and u.s. fords that
>would make this shop manual misleading?

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:03:16 -0500
From: "Tony Kelsey" scsinternet.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 300 6 Cyl block

I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the maximum a 300 block could
be bored to.The block currently is .050 over with 390 pistons in it. It has
a scored cylinder and i was wanting to know if i could go to the first
oversize in a 390 piston.

Thanks for any input

Tony

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 15:25:12 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 300 6 Cyl block

> I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the maximum a 300 block could
> be bored to.The block currently is .050 over with 390 pistons in
> it. It has
> a scored cylinder and i was wanting to know if i could go to the first
> oversize in a 390 piston.
>

Yikes, I think I'd have the sucker sonic checked to be sure it would take a
bore ... or just get a motor from the salvage yard and use that block ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:56:27 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!!

Craig Cantrell wrote:

> Nylon gears? Has it been that long? I don't remeber nylon in a '67 289.

With 200K it probably already had at least one timing set replaced without the benefit
of dropping the pan. Also, a lot of crap can fall into the pan while the cover is off.
I had a friend do one only to have the pump freeze the next day. When he pulled it out
there was a piece of a broken distributor rotor jammed in it. Must have fallen into the
pan when he pulled the cover and the screen was so dirty it passed the chunk right
through. Since it was his father in laws car and he was doing the job in the driveway
at night with a drop light I can just imagine his attitude about taking care when
ripping it apart:).

Gary's right about centering the seal. They almost always leak when you leave the pan
tight. But then the pan may leak
if you just break it loose without replacing the gasket.

>
>
> "G.T. Herpich" wrote:
>
> > Don't drive it at all! You could wind up with valves hitting pistons.
> >
> > You can R&R the timing set without dropping the pan, they even sell gasket sets
> > for this with just the front parts of the pan gasket, but it's a pain to do and
> > there's bound to be a load of nylon gear teeth in the pan. These can get past the
> > oil pump pickup screen and jam the pump which will twist the drive off. The
> > screen is made so it will open and allow oil past it in the event that it gets
> > clogged.
> >
> > George h
> >
> > SUGGSRD

aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks you guys for the ideas. I solved it so I thought I better let you
> > > know how it ended (not a pretty sight). As it turns out it was the timing
> > > chain slipped a tooth. This is how it played out. Before lunch I was
> > > starting to think that maybe it was having a carburetor problem that was
> > > flooding it. I removed the fuel line from the pump and carburetor allows it
> > > to rest the tried a little starting fluid. I got the most meager pop or two.
> > > I talked to the owner and deduced that the new tune-up parts were from the
> > > previous mechanics attempt to repair by changing parts. Then I cam in and
> > > read the recent posts. George said something about ruling out the timing
> > > unless the distributor was turned all the way over. I thought to myself that
> > > the previous mechanic may have moved the distributor to its present position.
> > > Which was as far clockwise as it would turn? I went back out now that the
> > > engine was not flooded and cranked while turning the distributor. The engine
> > > tried to fire a little when pushed to Max clockwise. So I lifted the
> > > distributor and moved it one tooth. The engine started right up. I drove it
> > > down the street and it is very gutless but I don't know how bad it was before
> > > I started.
> > >
> > > I guess I will have to install the timing chain for him. Even if it runs OK
> > > now I imagine that the chain will slip again. Once the car warms up and is
> > > put under a real load. It is a shame to waste the money on a timing chain
> > > for this engine. The compression check I did showed 73-95. Aren't these
> > > motors supposed to have about 125? I tried to convince him we should go find
> > > a junkyard engine for about $300 and he would be better off. But this is all
> > > the money the guy has.
> > >
> > > Thanks for the help everyone and it was fun to do this on the web.
> > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> --
> Craig
> --
> 1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
> "Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
> South Central Kansas Mustang Club
> See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

End of 61-79-list-digest V4 #24
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