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From: owner-61-79-list-digest To: 61-79-list-digest Subject: 61-79-list-digest V4 #23 Reply-To: 61-79-list Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Tuesday, January 18 2000 Volume 04 : Number 023 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help! Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help! Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting FTE 61-79 - Re: Mech troubleshooting Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts FTE 61-79 - motors Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. RE: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion Re: FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help FTE 61-79 - re.Site update and a question. Re: FTE 61-79 - Canadian Fords and manuals??? Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion FTE 61-79 - Re: Rust resistant coatings POR-15 Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting Re: FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts Re: Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability? Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability? Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts FTE 61-79 - Engine ID Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. FTE 61-79 - 360 to AOD questions FTE 61-79 - 300 Power Steering Pump Bracket FTE 61-79 - Long Term Tire Storage FTE 61-79 - : 2WD to 4WD swaps FTE 61-79 - re:intermittent wipers Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. FTE 61-79 - Re: FE head interchangeability. FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!! Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!! ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 03:54:59 -0700 From: "Michael White" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help! > So here is the problem. He has a 1967 Ford ranch wagon. 289 with an auto > transmission somewhere near 200 k probably. The owner was driving about 35 > MPH (as usual or less). When he turned into a parking lot the car was very > gutless. When he parked the car finally died and hasn't run since. His > mechanic who usually works on the car said he "THINKS" it has a skipped > timing chain. > Bob Suggs .............. If the timing chain has skipped one tooth, you should be able to rotate the distributer a few degrees and get the motor to start. Of course if this is the case, it will not be long before the chain slips another tooth so it's a good idea to replace the chain & sprockets when worn. Perhaps somebody might remember which way to rotate the distributer for a slipped timing chain? Clockwise or counterclock? Michael == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 06:27:07 -0500 From: "G.T. Herpich" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help! With the timing marks lined up the rotor should point to #1 and you should be able to make the points open bu rotating the distributor, that's when the plug fires. Or try advancing or retarding (every one I ever saw needs advance, clockwise) as far as it will go. If you get even a hint of fire it has jumped time. If you remove the hold down, pull the distributor up slowly until the gear disengages, move the rotor counterclockwise one tooth and put it back it should start. Do not drive it this way, just use the method for determining that it has, in fact jumped time. George H SUGGSRD > I am helping a neighbor who is out of money and down on his luck. I am > hoping to find a forum either here or a link elsewhere to get some > troubleshooting help. I used to be a fair shade tree Mechanic but it has > been 10 years since I did any major wrench turning. Most of my experience > has been with Fords but this one has me perplexed. > > So here is the problem. He has a 1967 Ford ranch wagon. 289 with an auto > transmission somewhere near 200 k probably. The owner was driving about 35 > MPH (as usual or less). When he turned into a parking lot the car was very > gutless. When he parked the car finally died and hasn't run since. His > mechanic who usually works on the car said he "THINKS" it has a skipped > timing chain. It is obvious that the points condenser cap rotor and plug > wires are very new. When I try to start the engine turns over normally but I > cannot even get a smallest of small cough from it. There is gas as I saw it > injected with the accelerator pump. There is spark at the plug, as tested by > removing a plug and cranking the engine. The spark maybe looked a little > weak but that is very subjective from someone as rusty as me. The > distributor turns when the engine is cranked, so the timing chain is not > broken. I checked static timing by turning engine to TDC as indicated on the > dampener and checking the position of the rotor in relation to the #1 wire on > the cap. This is hard to be exact but it looks very close. The contact > should be touching or it is maybe going to be a little late. It looks close > enough that I should at least get a cough out of the engine. Another strange > thing. Although I had never tried this I put the timing light on the engine > and cranked it even though it wasn't running. Thought I could see where the > timing was this way. But the timing light won't light at all. I checked it > on my car while it was running and the light worked fine. I did some tests > on the coil with a VOM. I think that the coil is working OK. I noticed that > the negative primary coil wire is going to the Distributor. I can't remember > is that right. > Any trouble shooting is appreciated. If this is not the right place for this > type of question can you point me to a good site for this. > Sincerely, > Bob Suggs > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 03:45:20 -0800 From: "Deacon" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting On Monday, January 17 Bob Suggs posted: > I am helping a neighbor who is out of money and down on his luck. I am > hoping to find a forum either here or a link elsewhere to get some > troubleshooting help. A full time list for Fords in general would be fordnatics. I don't see any harm in trying to help out with this problem. If there was a concern we could always say the neighbor has a 1967 Ford F100 289 with an auto transmission. :] > When he turned into a parking lot the car was very > gutless. When he parked the car finally died and hasn't run since. His > mechanic who usually works on the car said he "THINKS" it has a skipped > timing chain. Could be. >It is obvious that the points condenser cap rotor and plug > wires are very new. It's always best to get the cheapest possibilities out of the way first. Sometimes you win. Sometimes you lose. >When I try to start the engine turns over normally but I > cannot even get a smallest of small cough from it. When you try and start an engine, normally when it turns over it starts. If it doesn't then it would be considered abnormal. I guess it's all in interpretation. "] > I checked static timing by turning engine to TDC as indicated on the > dampener and checking the position of the rotor To static time an engine you must be sure the #1 piston is TDC on it's compression stroke by pulling it's spark plug and covering the hole with your thumb, crank the engine (a remote starter works best, next would be a screwdriver to jump the poles on the starter solenoid). The burst of air from the hole indicates it's compression stroke. > weak but that is very subjective from someone as rusty as me. The > distributor turns when the engine is cranked, so the timing chain is not > in relation to the #1 wire on the cap. This is hard to be exact but it looks very > close. When an engine jumps time, it's not the ignition timing but the valve timing that has the problem. If a valve is open on a compression stroke, there will be no compression, hence no combustion. A worn timing set can allow the timing chain to jump a tooth as his mechanic suggests. Once in a 302 I had the key in the lower timing gear give way allowing the gear to slip a little on the crankshaft, and had much the same results as you've described. There are a number of other things that could be the cause of this too. A compression check could give you a better idea what has happened. If there's no compression in any cylinder, then the valve timing is most likely off and a new timing set may be needed. If some have compression and others don't, it could be burned or bent valves. If there's good compression in all cylinders, then I don't know. Maybe muffler bearings? :] Later! Deacon deconblu deconblu http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 05:57:14 -0800 From: "Scott Jensen" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Mech troubleshooting Sounds to me like it's a possible coil problem. When I've had those symptoms I've usually cleaned up the ignition system, so I'm assuming you've checked for carbon tracks. Try sticking a screwdriver directly off the coil. There ought to be a healthy spark. I've seen this problem a couple times, and both times I've started at the plugs and replaced my way back to find the problem was a weak coil. Good luck! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 06:54:54 -0800 (PST) From: "D. DiMartino" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion - --- NTesla333 > > . Is the 2WD frame the > same as the 4WD, > if not this option probably would not work. no they are not, i have looked into this as i am going to swap a cab and bed to a 4x4 frame. i have talked to many on an off list and this is the easiest way to go. 2x4 frames will require modifications to except the 4x4 running gear. > 3) I could strip the regular cab 4WD down to the frame and > running gear. I > have been told that I could cut the regular cab and add to it > for the > additional length needed for the extended cab. Then, I could > bolt my extended > cab, and bed to the lengthened frame and swap motors. is it really worth the hassle? good luck with your project and if you start, keep us posted on your progress > ===== Daniel DiMartino 1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:03:55 EST From: GMontgo930 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. In a message dated 1/16/2000 8:28:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, NTesla333 > I have a 78 F250. I want to replace the 2 speed dash mounted wiper switch, > with an intermittent switch. Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck > that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let me know so I > could retrofit my truck. Thanks. > THis is an easy job to do. Ive done it to my '73 F100. What you need are the dash switch AND the underdash control module. You can usually find these in a wrecking yard. I know many 73-79's had em. Im not sure, but the parts from later years may work also but ive never tried that so dont know for sure. ANyway, once you have theparts, you just unplug & remove the stock switch, instal your new one. The trucks harness will plug into the control box and it in turn plugs into the switch. Hard to get simpler!. George == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 11:03:28 -0500 From: "Don Haring, Jr." Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines Joe >Anyone had any experience with any companies that offer pre bent brake lines? Before I knew better, I ordered a pre-bent line for my Falcon. I bought one of the rear lines that attaches to the rear axle housing. I didn't have much experience with brakes, so I thought this was a good choice. The line was $25. However, I quickly found out that you can buy unbent lines at any good parts store. These lines already have the flares and fittings -- you just need to bend the line into the shape you need. They come in different lengths, and cost only about $5. I now buy these unbent lines when I need to replace a line. It's worth $5 for me to have the flares and fittings already taken care of, and I find it easy to bend the lines. The pre-bent line cost me $25. That's $20 of labor to bend the line, IMO. Since that first brake experience, I've overhauled the brakes on two vehicles, and have found the unbent lines to be a time and money saver. To bend the lines, just measure the old line, make a copy of it using a coathanger or heavy wire, and then use a tube bender (or if you're careful, the palms of your hands). Hope this helps, don - -- Don in Philadelphia Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 11:11:47 -0800 From: wicowboy Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion > 2) Or I could unbolt/cut the 2WD components and bolt in the 4WD stuff. I > don't know if this option would work. Is the 2WD frame the same as the 4WD, > if not this option probably would not work. I would personally go this route, did a conversion from a '79 F-100 4x2 to 3/4ton 4x4 runnning gear (my first truck, I was 14 at the time so it couldn't have been tooo difficult). It was a few years ago but i don't remember it being extremely difficult, i believe the worst part was getting the 4wd stuff off the old frame and into peieces. Lot of time involved but i don't think it was too difficult and i got it done. I have seen many trucks around here lately converted the other way 4wd to 2wd, don't know why but it seems to be happening around here a lot. It can be done, I wouldn't personally ever do it again, way too much time involved and it'll no matter how good of a job you do it won't ever be quite as reliable as one that came that way stock, i'd just find on that was originally set-up that way, but things were a lot different when i was 14. If you need more details I could probably recall more if i really thought about it and went down the road and looked at my old '79, i still know the guy that owns it now. Where are you from? Seems like no matter how much cheaper I thought it would be to do a conversion like this by time i was done and about ready to get it on the road again i spent more then i thought i would and in the case of the '79 after having it on the road for a week I found a '79 F-250 set up the way i wanted for about half of what i had into this truck. Grrr.....thats probably just my luck though. As for your other options, I would never cut a frame on a 4x4 if it was ever going to see any kind of mild or serious duty hauling or off-roading, I am in the middle of tearing a beautiful '79 bronco down to the frame, pulling everything all off including motor (460), suspension, body, and all just to put it all right back on another '79 frame just because someone had cut the frame and rewelded it. Thats just me though again. I just wouldn't want to do all that work like you are suggesting and rely on a cut frame. As for 400 vs 460, plain and simply you aren't going to be very economical with a truck like this no matter which motor you use and when i have done those conversions i never really noticed much of a difference in fuel costs for daily driving between the two motors but a performance difference is obvious! I would go with the 460 for sure, especially in a 4x4. I would be willing to bet the 460 would outlast the 400 if they are both origanally in comparable shape, I always feel like I was pushing my 400 (although it never seemed to mind) but the 460 seems like its never works nearly as hard, so in that way i would prefer the 460 too and would be willing to bet in the long run it would outlast the 400. If you already have both motors as you do i would definetly go 460, again thats just my opinion, i love the Mod engine family but i preffer the 460 in a 4x4, don't wanna start a battle again :) Feel free to msg me if you think of anything else == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:19:37 EST From: SUGGSRD Subject: FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help Thank you to all that are helping. Here is where I am. White wolf: Yes, #1 was about TDC when the rotor was pointed at the #1 pin on the distributor cap. Michael White and George H: I rotated the cap as much as I could while attempting to start the engine. Although I cannot turn in the clockwise direction more than about 1 inch. Deacon: I sounds like I should run a quick dry compression check. I will o this later this AM and post the results. Terry L. Rahn, Scott Jensen: I think I will remove the coil. I think the local parts store can check these out of the car? Do you know for certain is the + or - post on the distributor supposed to go to the coil. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:43:31 -0500 From: tfreeman Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the Comp Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in diameter. I think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price. Thanks, - -Ted == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:49:52 -0500 From: "Redden" Subject: FTE 61-79 - motors Found these in the local rag: Ford 390 GT motor (1966) and 391 short truck block The guy's phone # is 610-582-4825 Near Reading, PA (50 miles NW of Philly) Thought I'd pass it on.... Mike == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:06:37 PST From: "Don Jones" Subject: Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck >that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let me know so I >could retrofit my truck. Thanks. > Check an '80 to '86 f-series Don Jones 1970 f-250 4x4 ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:28:41 -0800 From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. How about 73-79? Seriously my dad had one in his 76 stock. And I grabbed one from the 'cyclin' yard for my 76 from a 78 or 9. Check out the tech articles. There is on on this exact conversion with pictures. Tom H > -----Original Message----- > From: j arnold [mailto:stoney > Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 9:12 PM > To: 61-79-list > Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. > > > At 08:21 PM 1/16/00 EST, you wrote: > >I have a 78 F250. I want to replace the 2 speed dash mounted > wiper switch, > >with an intermittent switch. Do any of you all know of any > year Ford truck > >that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let > me know so I > >could retrofit my truck. Thanks. > > > >Robert Bowen > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info > http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > > > My '83 F250 has dash > mounted intermittent wiper switch. > > stoney > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info > http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 13:51:30 EST From: JUMPINFORD Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion It was a 3 part deal in 4 wheeler, I think early 98. Read the first two parts, didnt seem hard, but also wasnt for the average mechanic. Good luck, and Id go with the 460! Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 13:04:30 -0600 From: Craig Cantrell Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help The negitive wire definitely goes to the distributor. SUGGSRD > Thank you to all that are helping. Here is where I am. > > White wolf: > Yes, #1 was about TDC when the rotor was pointed at the #1 pin on the > distributor cap. > > Michael White and George H: > I rotated the cap as much as I could while attempting to start the engine. > Although I cannot turn in the clockwise direction more than about 1 inch. > > Deacon: > I sounds like I should run a quick dry compression check. I will o this > later this AM and post the results. > > Terry L. Rahn, Scott Jensen: > I think I will remove the coil. I think the local parts store can check > these out of the car? Do you know for certain is the + or - post on the > distributor supposed to go to the coil. - -- Craig - -- 1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149 "Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle South Central Kansas Mustang Club See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 11:00:05 -0800 From: Scott grossen Subject: FTE 61-79 - re.Site update and a question. It is at the bottom of the page. Now I have a question, where can I get new A/C lines?. The system I got had the lines cut. The shops around here look at me funny when I ask for lines for this truck. People around here don't beleive the a vehicle should be around that long I guess. I made my own on the 79 T-bird, but I don't want to do that again. BTW, I also scored another A/C system for my other truck last weekend. This one needs a condensor, but the rest was there. WOOHOO. This may be old but if you are going to make new ac lines like i did all of the fittings but one are standard the large fitting going into the evaporator was one i had a hard time finding it wasnt in any of the fitting catalogs i looked through. if you are careful you can take the nut that is soldered to the fitting off and older it to another fitting of the same size tube. my local radiator shop did this for free.with what they call silversolder so it would hold the higher pressure. Scott 78-79 hybrid 4wd conversion 429 c-6 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 11:04:11 -0800 From: "Mike Sealey" <75.f150 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Canadian Fords and manuals??? On Wed, 15 Dec 1999 14:14:41 Daniel DiMartino wrote: > >i just bought a shop manual for my 68 f250, my question is: are >there any differences between canadian fords and u.s. fords that >would make this shop manual misleading? (snip) >...i'm not sure but it looks >like the canadians might have had some emisions standards >different than the u.s., other than that i know the basic >mechanics are the same. anybody delt with a canadian ford before?? Sorry it took so long on this. (This sat in my "Drafts" folder for over a month before I finally remembered to send it...) The GW North didn't impose smog standards until a few years after the US, and I think '68 was during the time where there was a gap. Then there's also the Mercury issue (I think '68 was the last year for the M-250?) but I don't think there was any mechanical difference between that and the Canadian F-250. Mike Sealey '75 F-150 Ranger, 390/C6 ("Redneck Continental") Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 11:17:02 -0800 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion JJJJJGRANT > > one of the 4x4 magazines did an article on this subject, i have it somewhere, > but may never find it. they did the conversion on a ext. cab swb, made a neat > looking truck. maybe someone else knows which mag it was in. > The main jist of the article is that they had a good F-150 supercab with 460 and 2x. What they did was find a donor F-150 4x, carefully removed the crossmenbers from the frame rails in the 2x and 4x and place the front 4x crossmember in the 2x frame. if I remember right all the holes are drilled in both frames and the spring towers are in the correct location. They also used the tranny/t-case combo with the crossmember. They had a nice big lift to put the truck on and you may have to remove large parts of the front clip to get to everything but I think that this might be a good way to go but you were talking F-250. does the F250 supercab have a coil of leaf spring front suspension? since the F-250 4x4 has a 400m in it I will tend to think it is the later model and to keep the leaf springs you will need to box in the front of the frame for the spring hangers, remove the rear spring hanger from inside the frame and locate it in the 2x frame. You may also need to exchange front crossmembers to clear the front axle. If you are going to add 6" or more of lift you might be able to get away with leaving the current crossmember in place. The other thing is swapping over the steering box, just more fabrication. Laters == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 14:23:43 -0600 From: oldfords63 Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rust resistant coatings POR-15 "D. DiMartino writes: All rust must be removed!! clean clean clean is the only way to go!! >============================================================= Dan, I agree completly. It's always best to remove ALL the rust. I think your better off using it in places that are PRONE to rust AFTER you fix it. (floorboards, trunks, door bottoms, etc. ) Nothing takes the place of good solid sheet metal. Later, Phil ________________________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 14:45:06 -0500 From: "G.T. Herpich" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting Deacon wrote > > When an engine jumps time, it's not the ignition timing but the valve > timing that has the problem. Since the cam drives the distributor it is very much an ignition problem. If it jumps one tooth, which is most often the case, it is timing that keeps the engine from starting. It will run quite well with the altered valve timing. > If a valve is open on a compression stroke, > there will be no compression, hence no combustion. A worn timing set can > allow the timing chain to jump a tooth as his mechanic suggests. Once in > a 302 I had the key in the lower timing gear give way allowing the gear > to slip a little on the crankshaft, and had much the same results as > you've described. There are a number of other things that could be the > cause of this too. A compression check could give you a better idea what > has happened. If there's no compression in any cylinder, then the valve > timing is most likely off and a new timing set may be needed. If some > have compression and others don't, it could be burned or bent valves. If > there's good compression in all cylinders, then I don't know. Maybe > muffler bearings? :] There can be good compression even with a jumped tooth. George H == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 14:55:17 -0500 From: "G.T. Herpich" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help SUGGSRD > Thank you to all that are helping. Here is where I am. > > White wolf: > Yes, #1 was about TDC when the rotor was pointed at the #1 pin on the > distributor cap. That pretty much rules out the timing chain, unless you had to turn the dist. all the way to get it close. Did you say you're getting spark? George H > > > Michael White and George H: > I rotated the cap as much as I could while attempting to start the engine. > Although I cannot turn in the clockwise direction more than about 1 inch. > > Deacon: > I sounds like I should run a quick dry compression check. I will o this > later this AM and post the results. > > Terry L. Rahn, Scott Jensen: > I think I will remove the coil. I think the local parts store can check > these out of the car? Do you know for certain is the + or - post on the > distributor supposed to go to the coil. It will start with reverse polarity. The points are connected to -. You can stick in any coil you have laying around or try one from another car to check it out. Even 6 volt. Just lay it on the engine for a quick test. George H > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 15:00:39 -0500 From: "G.T. Herpich" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts .840 is the stock size. How much for those rockers? George H tfreeman > Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the Comp > Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was > looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in diameter. I > think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at > Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price. > > Thanks, > > -Ted > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 15:03:48 -0500 From: "G.T. Herpich" Subject: Re: Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. Don Jones wrote: > > Check an '80 to '86 f-series > > Do they plug into the earlier harness? George H > > ______________________________________________________ > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 15:32:49 -0500 From: tfreeman Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts Thanks George, The Harland Sharp Rockers were $319 for the just the rocker arms and $129 for a pair of what they call Heavy Duty Shafts. Comp Cams sells just the rocker arms for about $250 (I would need to call my machinist for the exact cost), but sell their kit for approx. $480. I was going to get the rockers from Comp Cams and the shafts from Harland Sharp for about $370. That doesn't sound as bad to me. Of course Comp Cams has a killer race set up for the FE, but can't afford the $880 for the them. Thanks again! - -Ted "G.T. Herpich" Please respond to 61-79-list To: 61-79-list cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS) Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts .840 is the stock size. How much for those rockers? George H tfreeman > Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the Comp > Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was > looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in diameter. I > think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at > Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price. > > Thanks, > > -Ted > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 14:35:19 -0800 From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability? The 428 heads should work on your 390. However, if they are CJ heads and/or have valves larger than 2.08" and 1.65", notching the cylinders will help with airflow around the valves. As is, the valves would be really close to the cylinder wall of a 4.05" bore block, depending on cam lift, of course. The valve covers may look different, but they will fit on all FE Heads, I beleive, unless you have adjustable rockers and a high lift cam. Jason - -----Original Message----- From: Mike Sealey <75.f150 To: 61-79 Ford Truck List <61-79-list Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 11:57 PM Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability? >Is there anything I need to know about the various FE blocks out there? We're dealing with a '75 390, planning to stay with the existing carburetion and manifolds. I know the valve covers look a lot different on older 390s, and wondered if there was a head design change at some point. >Mike Sealey >'75 F-150 Ranger, 390/C6 ("Redneck Continental") > > >Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 15:55:56 -0500 From: "G.T. Herpich" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts That's not bad considering what used stockers go for. You can't touch them on ebay for under 100. For a mild street engine the stock shafts will do but I have a feeling yours won't be that mild:) George H tfreeman > Thanks George, > > The Harland Sharp Rockers were $319 for the just the rocker arms and $129 for a > pair of what they call Heavy Duty Shafts. Comp Cams sells just the rocker arms > for about $250 (I would need to call my machinist for the exact cost), but sell > their kit for approx. $480. I was going to get the rockers from Comp Cams and > the shafts from Harland Sharp for about $370. That doesn't sound as bad to me. > > Of course Comp Cams has a killer race set up for the FE, but can't afford the > $880 for the them. > > Thanks again! > > -Ted > > "G.T. Herpich" > > Please respond to 61-79-list > > To: 61-79-list > cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS) > Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts > > .840 is the stock size. How much for those rockers? > > George H > > tfreeman > > > Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the Comp > > Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was > > looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in diameter. > I > > think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at > > Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price. > > > > Thanks, > > > > -Ted > > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:02:50 -0500 From: "G.T. Herpich" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability? Speaking of valve covers, beware of the ones showing up on ebay and going pretty cheap. They are the 390 GT ones and have lousy plating and won't clear adjustables. You can tell them in the pics from the diagonal creases or ribs on the side. There's a couple of sets on there now. They look almost like pent roofs and one guy is advertising them to fit 427s. George H Jason & Kathy Kendrick wrote: > The 428 heads should work on your 390. However, if they are CJ heads and/or > have valves larger than 2.08" and 1.65", notching the cylinders will help > with airflow around the valves. As is, the valves would be really close to > the cylinder wall of a 4.05" bore block, depending on cam lift, of course. > The valve covers may look different, but they will fit on all FE Heads, I > beleive, unless you have adjustable rockers and a high lift cam. > Jason > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mike Sealey <75.f150 > To: 61-79 Ford Truck List <61-79-list > Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 11:57 PM > Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability? > > >Is there anything I need to know about the various FE blocks out there? > We're dealing with a '75 390, planning to stay with the existing carburetion > and manifolds. I know the valve covers look a lot different on older 390s, > and wondered if there was a head design change at some point. > >Mike Sealey > >'75 F-150 Ranger, 390/C6 ("Redneck Continental") > > > > > >Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:10:55 -0500 From: tfreeman Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts I've looked at Ebay. There's a set of factory adjustables out there now. It's up to $150 and the reserve hasn't been met. For the cost difference, I would like to have the roller tips. I've learned alot working on this motor. The only thing I don't like so far has been my choice of pistons. I bought cast instead of forged. When I bought mine, I was told I could only get the 410 piston in cast. Everything else I have is fairly beefy. I have a vintage 6pak sitting in my spare bedroom right now. It's different from the ones I'm used to seeing. Looks like it uses three old '50's model 2 barrels with the 2"(roughly) throats. Of course when I start rebuilding that thing, I'm sure it'll open up a whole 'nother set of questions. I hope to post a few pics of it in hopes of someone being able to id this setup. - -Ted "G.T. Herpich" Please respond to 61-79-list To: 61-79-list cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS) Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts That's not bad considering what used stockers go for. You can't touch them on ebay for under 100. For a mild street engine the stock shafts will do but I have a feeling yours won't be that mild:) George H tfreeman > Thanks George, > > The Harland Sharp Rockers were $319 for the just the rocker arms and $129 for a > pair of what they call Heavy Duty Shafts. Comp Cams sells just the rocker arms > for about $250 (I would need to call my machinist for the exact cost), but sell > their kit for approx. $480. I was going to get the rockers from Comp Cams and > the shafts from Harland Sharp for about $370. That doesn't sound as bad to me. > > Of course Comp Cams has a killer race set up for the FE, but can't afford the > $880 for the them. > > Thanks again! > > -Ted > > "G.T. Herpich" > > Please respond to 61-79-list > > To: 61-79-list > cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS) > Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts > > .840 is the stock size. How much for those rockers? > > George H > > tfreeman > > > Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the Comp > > Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was > > looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in diameter. > I > > think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at > > Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price. > > > > Thanks, > > > > -Ted > > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:11:22 -0600 From: Larry Schmiedekamp Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine ID Slap my hand. I knew I should have made a note of this info. I read of a web site to decode engine id. I'm looking to buy a 351. He doesn't know what it comes out of but his dad rebuild it and never used it. His dad has passed on. On the intake it has d1ae 9425 da and on the block below the head it has d2ae ca and 2b10 if I read them right. Wasn't to good of light in the barn. TIA for any help. Larry == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 08:54:47 -0800 From: "Pat" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. Hi Robert, I've got the intermittant wiper switch on the '78 Ranger Lariat F250 2WD that I just bought, apparently an option. A pal was saying today that there is more to it than just the switch, that you have to change the motor and some wiring. Can't swear to the swap info, but he sounded like he knew what he was talking about. > Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:21:02 EST > From: NTesla333 > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. > > I have a 78 F250. I want to replace the 2 speed dash mounted wiper switch, > with an intermittent switch. Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck > that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let me know so I > could retrofit my truck. Thanks. > > Robert Bowen == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:18:56 -0500 From: Sam Fricks Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 to AOD questions I have a 72 f-100 with a 360 and 3 speed manual transmission. I'm running 3.50:1 gears in the rear end and it sucks alot of gas. I'm getting my commission as an officer in the Army soon, and will have to go to Texas. I don't want to buy a new car because I love my truck too much, and have to much money tied up in it also. I was wanting to put somekind of overdrive transmission in it to make it more highway worthy. Is there anything that will work? Does anyone make an adapter for a FE block to bolt to an AOD? If you have any info or know of a company that deals with this kind of stuff, please let me know. Thanks, Sam gsi10164 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:18:22 -0600 From: Brett L Habben Subject: FTE 61-79 - 300 Power Steering Pump Bracket Folks, What does power steering pump bracket look like for a pre-78 style pump on a 300-6? I'm trying to find one and yard's Ford bracket bin is about 10'x15'x4' deep. Odds are there's one in there but what am I looking for? Since I found the AC compressor bracket I'm going to guess that it bolts to the same 4 mounting bolts low on the side of the block. Is that where it attaches? Are there any pictures of one somewhere on the web? Thanks, Brett Super75cab ________________________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:41:34 -0800 From: wicowboy Subject: FTE 61-79 - Long Term Tire Storage Anyone know the best way to store tires to avoid dry-rot, flatspots, etc? Having a whole fleet of trucks I have a lot of tires that sit for long periods of time, anyone got any suggestions on storing them? Right Now I have all my large tires (expensive ones) in the basement for winter. 40" Boggers, 44" Ground hawgs and Boggers, 40" Swampers (2-sets). These tires often sit for months at a time, right now I have them in the warm basement on wood palates standing up right, inflated to normal pressure covered with blankets. Love that smell in my basement! Anyone have any other tips on how to preserve these? WICoWbOy '74 F-250 4x2 360, np435 '75 F-250 4x4 390, np435 '77 F-150 4x4 460, C-6, SWB, 12" lift, being converted to Dana 60 front (thanks OX) '79 F-250 4x2 460, C-6 '79 F-250 4x4, 514ci (Ford SVO), np435,Dana 60 f/r, 5.13 gears, soon to be c-6, 11" lift, 4" Chrome Stacks front of bed '79 Bronco P/u (super short box), 460, C-6, recieving new frame and 3/4-ton running gear Also building cousins '84 Bronco, just got 3/4-ton leave springs f/r, 8-bolt Dana 44 front, 60 rear with 4.10's, just started 460 today for first time, C-6, np205, waiting on driveshafts and steering components... Good Thing I have 40 acres..... == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 18:14:18 -0800 From: "Pat" Subject: FTE 61-79 - : 2WD to 4WD swaps > >Howdy Folks, > >Couple of questions.#1. Will the 2WD rear axle and springs from a 78 F250 2WD > >swap over to a 79 F250 4x4 assuming that ratio's are the same? #2 What brake > >parts from the front axle of the above 78 will swap over to the 79 4X4? > >Thanks > > > Patsplace > > > 78 F-150 W/Overloads > > > 77 F-250 4X4 > > > 79 F-250 4X4 Dream Truck Under Way > > > 72 F150 Ranger parts truck > > > 79 F250 Lariat donor vech. for the '79 4X4 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: (No, or invalid, date.) From: "Mike" Subject: FTE 61-79 - re:intermittent wipers I believe any 73-79 F series intermittent switch should work. You have = to get the switch and timer box off the same truck. There is no differenc= e in the factory harness and the box plugs in between that and the switch= . Only one extra wire (black) which goes to ground. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:26:30 -0800 From: Don Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. I have scoured junkyards and people parting out rigs and there are 2 parts to the intermittent wiper setup. 1. the switch itself which will turn to the left in a wide range 2. the "Brain" which is a little black plastic box that mountson the bottom lip of the dash on the inside. On any model you run into, a non-imtermittent switch will turn 2 clicks to the right and to turn of,will turn only two clicks back to the left. The intermittent switch will turn two clicks to the right,then turn two clicks left to turn off..then turn to left after that and it will increase-decrease wiper delay I have seen this on 77-79 f150's,f250's and broncos generally of the xlt models..i have not looked at previous years so can't say.... Also a neat thing I have found is the underhood lights that activate upon lifting hood and then shut off when in closed position.....hmmm...sorta like the refrigerator light thing...is it REALLY off when the door is closed????if so ...how can you see if it is off???? ;-) Another thing I have found is locks for the glove box, some models hav em some don't.... Don 79BroncoXLT At 08:54 1/17/00 -0800, you wrote: >Hi Robert, > I've got the intermittant wiper switch on the '78 Ranger Lariat F250 2WD >that I just bought, apparently an option. A pal was saying today that there >is more to it than just the switch, that you have to change the motor and >some wiring. Can't swear to the swap info, but he sounded like he knew what >he was talking about. > > > Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:21:02 EST > > From: NTesla333 > > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers. > > > > I have a 78 F250. I want to replace the 2 speed dash mounted wiper switch, > > with an intermittent switch. Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck > > that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let me know so I > > could retrofit my truck. Thanks. > > > > Robert Bowen > > > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 10:21:47 -0600 From: "Steve Beadle" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: FE head interchangeability. All of the FE heads will bolt up to the 390. The only problem is that the exhaust bolt patterns vary. Some heads (most) have an eight bolt top/bottom pattern on each head, some have 14 bolt holes and some have 16. The 428 heads should work on the 390 unless they are CJ or SCJ heads. The 427 big valve heads won't work but I would be impressed if you find any of these. If you have any other questions there is an FE forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://network54.com/Forum/21142 . There are a lot of FEers there that know their stuff. If you can get the casting #'s off of the e-bay heads from the seller these guys could let you know if they will fit your application. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 00:50:41 EST From: SUGGSRD Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!! Thanks you guys for the ideas. I solved it so I thought I better let you know how it ended (not a pretty sight). As it turns out it was the timing chain slipped a tooth. This is how it played out. Before lunch I was starting to think that maybe it was having a carburetor problem that was flooding it. I removed the fuel line from the pump and carburetor allows it to rest the tried a little starting fluid. I got the most meager pop or two. I talked to the owner and deduced that the new tune-up parts were from the previous mechanics attempt to repair by changing parts. Then I cam in and read the recent posts. George said something about ruling out the timing unless the distributor was turned all the way over. I thought to myself that the previous mechanic may have moved the distributor to its present position. Which was as far clockwise as it would turn? I went back out now that the engine was not flooded and cranked while turning the distributor. The engine tried to fire a little when pushed to Max clockwise. So I lifted the distributor and moved it one tooth. The engine started right up. I drove it down the street and it is very gutless but I don't know how bad it was before I started. I guess I will have to install the timing chain for him. Even if it runs OK now I imagine that the chain will slip again. Once the car warms up and is put under a real load. It is a shame to waste the money on a timing chain for this engine. The compression check I did showed 73-95. Aren't these motors supposed to have about 125? I tried to convince him we should go find a junkyard engine for about $300 and he would be better off. But this is all the money the guy has. Thanks for the help everyone and it was fun to do this on the web. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 05:13:52 -0500 From: "G.T. Herpich" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!! Don't drive it at all! You could wind up with valves hitting pistons. You can R&R the timing set without dropping the pan, they even sell gasket sets for this with just the front parts of the pan gasket, but it's a pain to do and there's bound to be a load of nylon gear teeth in the pan. These can get past the oil pump pickup screen and jam the pump which will twist the drive off. The screen is made so it will open and allow oil past it in the event that it gets clogged. George h SUGGSRD > Thanks you guys for the ideas. I solved it so I thought I better let you > know how it ended (not a pretty sight). As it turns out it was the timing > chain slipped a tooth. This is how it played out. Before lunch I was > starting to think that maybe it was having a carburetor problem that was > flooding it. I removed the fuel line from the pump and carburetor allows it > to rest the tried a little starting fluid. I got the most meager pop or two. > I talked to the owner and deduced that the new tune-up parts were from the > previous mechanics attempt to repair by changing parts. Then I cam in and > read the recent posts. George said something about ruling out the timing > unless the distributor was turned all the way over. I thought to myself that > the previous mechanic may have moved the distributor to its present position. > Which was as far clockwise as it would turn? I went back out now that the > engine was not flooded and cranked while turning the distributor. The engine > tried to fire a little when pushed to Max clockwise. So I lifted the > distributor and moved it one tooth. The engine started right up. I drove it > down the street and it is very gutless but I don't know how bad it was before > I started. > > I guess I will have to install the timing chain for him. Even if it runs OK > now I imagine that the chain will slip again. Once the car warms up and is > put under a real load. It is a shame to waste the money on a timing chain > for this engine. The compression check I did showed 73-95. Aren't these > motors supposed to have about 125? I tried to convince him we should go find > a junkyard engine for about $300 and he would be better off. But this is all > the money the guy has. > > Thanks for the help everyone and it was fun to do this on the web. > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ End of 61-79-list-digest V4 #23 ******************************* +----- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 though 1979 Trucks And Vans -----+ | Send posts to 61-79-list | List removal information is on the web site. | +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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