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From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V4 #23
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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, January 18 2000 Volume 04 : Number 023



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting
FTE 61-79 - Re: Mech troubleshooting
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion
FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help
FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts
FTE 61-79 - motors
Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help
FTE 61-79 - re.Site update and a question.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Canadian Fords and manuals???
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion
FTE 61-79 - Re: Rust resistant coatings POR-15
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting
Re: FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts
Re: Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts
FTE 61-79 - Engine ID
Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
FTE 61-79 - 360 to AOD questions
FTE 61-79 - 300 Power Steering Pump Bracket
FTE 61-79 - Long Term Tire Storage
FTE 61-79 - : 2WD to 4WD swaps
FTE 61-79 - re:intermittent wipers
Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
FTE 61-79 - Re: FE head interchangeability.
FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!!

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 03:54:59 -0700
From: "Michael White" csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help!

> So here is the problem. He has a 1967 Ford ranch wagon. 289 with an auto
> transmission somewhere near 200 k probably. The owner was driving about
35
> MPH (as usual or less). When he turned into a parking lot the car was
very
> gutless. When he parked the car finally died and hasn't run since. His
> mechanic who usually works on the car said he "THINKS" it has a skipped
> timing chain.

> Bob Suggs
..............

If the timing chain has skipped one tooth, you should be able to rotate
the distributer a few degrees and get the motor to start. Of course if this
is the case, it will not be long before the chain slips another tooth so
it's a good idea to replace the chain & sprockets when worn. Perhaps
somebody might remember which way to rotate the distributer for a slipped
timing chain? Clockwise or counterclock?


Michael



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 06:27:07 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help!

With the timing marks lined up the rotor should point to #1 and you should be
able to make the points open bu rotating the distributor, that's when the plug
fires. Or
try advancing or retarding (every one I ever saw needs advance, clockwise) as far
as it will go. If you get even a hint of fire it has jumped time. If you remove
the hold down, pull the distributor up slowly until the gear disengages, move the
rotor counterclockwise one tooth and put it back it should start. Do not drive it
this way, just use the method for determining that it has, in fact jumped time.

George H



SUGGSRD aol.com wrote:

> I am helping a neighbor who is out of money and down on his luck. I am
> hoping to find a forum either here or a link elsewhere to get some
> troubleshooting help. I used to be a fair shade tree Mechanic but it has
> been 10 years since I did any major wrench turning. Most of my experience
> has been with Fords but this one has me perplexed.
>
> So here is the problem. He has a 1967 Ford ranch wagon. 289 with an auto
> transmission somewhere near 200 k probably. The owner was driving about 35
> MPH (as usual or less). When he turned into a parking lot the car was very
> gutless. When he parked the car finally died and hasn't run since. His
> mechanic who usually works on the car said he "THINKS" it has a skipped
> timing chain. It is obvious that the points condenser cap rotor and plug
> wires are very new. When I try to start the engine turns over normally but I
> cannot even get a smallest of small cough from it. There is gas as I saw it
> injected with the accelerator pump. There is spark at the plug, as tested by
> removing a plug and cranking the engine. The spark maybe looked a little
> weak but that is very subjective from someone as rusty as me. The
> distributor turns when the engine is cranked, so the timing chain is not
> broken. I checked static timing by turning engine to TDC as indicated on the
> dampener and checking the position of the rotor in relation to the #1 wire on
> the cap. This is hard to be exact but it looks very close. The contact
> should be touching or it is maybe going to be a little late. It looks close
> enough that I should at least get a cough out of the engine. Another strange
> thing. Although I had never tried this I put the timing light on the engine
> and cranked it even though it wasn't running. Thought I could see where the
> timing was this way. But the timing light won't light at all. I checked it
> on my car while it was running and the light worked fine. I did some tests
> on the coil with a VOM. I think that the coil is working OK. I noticed that
> the negative primary coil wire is going to the Distributor. I can't remember
> is that right.
> Any trouble shooting is appreciated. If this is not the right place for this
> type of question can you point me to a good site for this.
> Sincerely,
> Bob Suggs
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 03:45:20 -0800
From: "Deacon" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting

On Monday, January 17 Bob Suggs posted:

> I am helping a neighbor who is out of money and down on his luck. I
am
> hoping to find a forum either here or a link elsewhere to get some
> troubleshooting help.

A full time list for Fords in general would be fordnatics. I don't see
any harm in trying to help out with this problem. If there was a concern
we could always say the neighbor has a 1967 Ford F100 289 with an auto
transmission. :]

> When he turned into a parking lot the car was very
> gutless. When he parked the car finally died and hasn't run since.
His
> mechanic who usually works on the car said he "THINKS" it has a
skipped
> timing chain.

Could be.

>It is obvious that the points condenser cap rotor and plug
> wires are very new.

It's always best to get the cheapest possibilities out of the way first.
Sometimes you win. Sometimes you lose.

>When I try to start the engine turns over normally but I
> cannot even get a smallest of small cough from it.

When you try and start an engine, normally when it turns over it starts.
If it doesn't then it would be considered abnormal. I guess it's all in
interpretation. "]

> I checked static timing by turning engine to TDC as indicated on the
> dampener and checking the position of the rotor

To static time an engine you must be sure the #1 piston is TDC on it's
compression stroke by pulling it's spark plug and covering the hole with
your thumb, crank the engine (a remote starter works best, next would be
a screwdriver to jump the poles on the starter solenoid). The burst of
air from the hole indicates it's compression stroke.

> weak but that is very subjective from someone as rusty as me. The
> distributor turns when the engine is cranked, so the timing chain is
not
> in relation to the #1 wire on the cap. This is hard to be exact but
it looks very > close.

When an engine jumps time, it's not the ignition timing but the valve
timing that has the problem. If a valve is open on a compression stroke,
there will be no compression, hence no combustion. A worn timing set can
allow the timing chain to jump a tooth as his mechanic suggests. Once in
a 302 I had the key in the lower timing gear give way allowing the gear
to slip a little on the crankshaft, and had much the same results as
you've described. There are a number of other things that could be the
cause of this too. A compression check could give you a better idea what
has happened. If there's no compression in any cylinder, then the valve
timing is most likely off and a new timing set may be needed. If some
have compression and others don't, it could be burned or bent valves. If
there's good compression in all cylinders, then I don't know. Maybe
muffler bearings? :]

Later!

Deacon

deconblu ford-trucks.com
deconblu earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/


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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 05:57:14 -0800
From: "Scott Jensen" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Mech troubleshooting

Sounds to me like it's a possible coil problem. When I've had those
symptoms I've usually cleaned up the ignition system, so I'm assuming
you've checked for carbon tracks. Try sticking a screwdriver directly off
the coil. There ought to be a healthy spark. I've seen this problem a
couple times, and both times I've started at the plugs and replaced my way
back to find the problem was a weak coil. Good luck!

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 06:54:54 -0800 (PST)
From: "D. DiMartino" yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion

- --- NTesla333 aol.com wrote:
>
> . Is the 2WD frame the
> same as the 4WD,
> if not this option probably would not work.

no they are not, i have looked into this as i am going to swap a
cab and bed to a 4x4 frame. i have talked to many on an off
list and this is the easiest way to go. 2x4 frames will require
modifications to except the 4x4 running gear.

> 3) I could strip the regular cab 4WD down to the frame and
> running gear. I
> have been told that I could cut the regular cab and add to it
> for the
> additional length needed for the extended cab. Then, I could
> bolt my extended
> cab, and bed to the lengthened frame and swap motors.

is it really worth the hassle?

good luck with your project and if you start, keep us posted on
your progress
>

=====
Daniel DiMartino
yahoo.com>
1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:03:55 EST
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.

In a message dated 1/16/2000 8:28:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
NTesla333 aol.com writes:

> I have a 78 F250. I want to replace the 2 speed dash mounted wiper switch,
> with an intermittent switch. Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck
> that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let me know so I
> could retrofit my truck. Thanks.
>

THis is an easy job to do. Ive done it to my '73 F100. What you need are the
dash switch AND the underdash control module. You can usually find these in a
wrecking yard. I know many 73-79's had em. Im not sure, but the parts from
later years may work also but ive never tried that so dont know for sure.
ANyway, once you have theparts, you just unplug & remove the stock switch,
instal your new one. The trucks harness will plug into the control box and it
in turn plugs into the switch. Hard to get simpler!.

George
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 11:03:28 -0500
From: "Don Haring, Jr." fedora.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines

Joe aol.com> said:
>Anyone had any experience with any companies that offer pre bent brake lines?


Before I knew better, I ordered a pre-bent line for my Falcon. I bought one
of the rear lines that attaches to the rear axle housing. I didn't have
much experience with brakes, so I thought this was a good choice. The line
was $25.

However, I quickly found out that you can buy unbent lines at any good
parts store. These lines already have the flares and fittings -- you just
need to bend the line into the shape you need. They come in different
lengths, and cost only about $5.

I now buy these unbent lines when I need to replace a line. It's worth $5
for me to have the flares and fittings already taken care of, and I find it
easy to bend the lines. The pre-bent line cost me $25. That's $20 of labor
to bend the line, IMO. Since that first brake experience, I've overhauled
the brakes on two vehicles, and have found the unbent lines to be a time
and money saver.

To bend the lines, just measure the old line, make a copy of it using a
coathanger or heavy wire, and then use a tube bender (or if you're careful,
the palms of your hands).

Hope this helps,
don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 11:11:47 -0800
From: wicowboy gateway.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion

> 2) Or I could unbolt/cut the 2WD components and bolt in the 4WD stuff. I
> don't know if this option would work. Is the 2WD frame the same as the 4WD,
> if not this option probably would not work.

I would personally go this route, did a conversion from a '79 F-100 4x2
to 3/4ton 4x4 runnning gear (my first truck, I was 14 at the time so it
couldn't have been tooo difficult). It was a few years ago but i don't
remember it being extremely difficult, i believe the worst part was
getting the 4wd stuff off the old frame and into peieces. Lot of time
involved but i don't think it was too difficult and i got it done. I
have seen many trucks around here lately converted the other way 4wd to
2wd, don't know why but it seems to be happening around here a lot. It
can be done, I wouldn't personally ever do it again, way too much time
involved and it'll no matter how good of a job you do it won't ever be
quite as reliable as one that came that way stock, i'd just find on that
was originally set-up that way, but things were a lot different when i
was 14. If you need more details I could probably recall more if i
really thought about it and went down the road and looked at my old '79,
i still know the guy that owns it now. Where are you from? Seems like
no matter how much cheaper I thought it would be to do a conversion like
this by time i was done and about ready to get it on the road again i
spent more then i thought i would and in the case of the '79 after
having it on the road for a week I found a '79 F-250 set up the way i
wanted for about half of what i had into this truck. Grrr.....thats
probably just my luck though. As for your other options, I would never
cut a frame on a 4x4 if it was ever going to see any kind of mild or
serious duty hauling or off-roading, I am in the middle of tearing a
beautiful '79 bronco down to the frame, pulling everything all off
including motor (460), suspension, body, and all just to put it all
right back on another '79 frame just because someone had cut the frame
and rewelded it. Thats just me though again. I just wouldn't want to
do all that work like you are suggesting and rely on a cut frame. As
for 400 vs 460, plain and simply you aren't going to be very economical
with a truck like this no matter which motor you use and when i have
done those conversions i never really noticed much of a difference in
fuel costs for daily driving between the two motors but a performance
difference is obvious! I would go with the 460 for sure, especially in a
4x4. I would be willing to bet the 460 would outlast the 400 if they
are both origanally in comparable shape, I always feel like I was
pushing my 400 (although it never seemed to mind) but the 460 seems like
its never works nearly as hard, so in that way i would prefer the 460
too and would be willing to bet in the long run it would outlast the
400. If you already have both motors as you do i would definetly go
460, again thats just my opinion, i love the Mod engine family but i
preffer the 460 in a 4x4, don't wanna start a battle again :) Feel free
to msg me if you think of anything else
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:19:37 EST
From: SUGGSRD aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help

Thank you to all that are helping. Here is where I am.

White wolf:
Yes, #1 was about TDC when the rotor was pointed at the #1 pin on the
distributor cap.

Michael White and George H:
I rotated the cap as much as I could while attempting to start the engine.
Although I cannot turn in the clockwise direction more than about 1 inch.

Deacon:
I sounds like I should run a quick dry compression check. I will o this
later this AM and post the results.

Terry L. Rahn, Scott Jensen:
I think I will remove the coil. I think the local parts store can check
these out of the car? Do you know for certain is the + or - post on the
distributor supposed to go to the coil.
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:43:31 -0500
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts

Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the Comp
Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was
looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in diameter. I
think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at
Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price.

Thanks,

- -Ted





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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:49:52 -0500
From: "Redden" enter.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - motors

Found these in the local rag:

Ford 390 GT motor (1966) and 391 short truck block
The guy's phone # is 610-582-4825
Near Reading, PA (50 miles NW of Philly)

Thought I'd pass it on....

Mike




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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:06:37 PST
From: "Don Jones" hotmail.com>
Subject: Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.

Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck
>that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let me know so I
>could retrofit my truck. Thanks.
>


Check an '80 to '86 f-series

Don Jones
1970 f-250 4x4
______________________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:28:41 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.

How about 73-79? Seriously my dad had one in his 76 stock. And I grabbed
one from the 'cyclin' yard for my 76 from a 78 or 9. Check out the tech
articles. There is on on this exact conversion with pictures.

Tom H

> -----Original Message-----
> From: j arnold [mailto:stoney ford-trucks.com]
> Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 9:12 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
>
>
> At 08:21 PM 1/16/00 EST, you wrote:
> >I have a 78 F250. I want to replace the 2 speed dash mounted
> wiper switch,
> >with an intermittent switch. Do any of you all know of any
> year Ford truck
> >that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let
> me know so I
> >could retrofit my truck. Thanks.
> >
> >Robert Bowen
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> My '83 F250 has dash
> mounted intermittent wiper switch.
>
> stoney
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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>
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 13:51:30 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion

It was a 3 part deal in 4 wheeler, I think early 98. Read the first two
parts, didnt seem hard, but also wasnt for the average mechanic. Good luck,
and Id go with the 460!

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 13:04:30 -0600
From: Craig Cantrell kscable.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help

The negitive wire definitely goes to the distributor.

SUGGSRD aol.com wrote:

> Thank you to all that are helping. Here is where I am.
>
> White wolf:
> Yes, #1 was about TDC when the rotor was pointed at the #1 pin on the
> distributor cap.
>
> Michael White and George H:
> I rotated the cap as much as I could while attempting to start the engine.
> Although I cannot turn in the clockwise direction more than about 1 inch.
>
> Deacon:
> I sounds like I should run a quick dry compression check. I will o this
> later this AM and post the results.
>
> Terry L. Rahn, Scott Jensen:
> I think I will remove the coil. I think the local parts store can check
> these out of the car? Do you know for certain is the + or - post on the
> distributor supposed to go to the coil.

- --
Craig
- --
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc


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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 11:00:05 -0800
From: Scott grossen ucs.orst.edu>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re.Site update and a question.

It is at the bottom of the page.

Now I have a question, where can I get new A/C lines?. The system I
got had the lines cut. The shops around here look at me funny when I ask
for lines for this truck. People around here don't beleive the a
vehicle should be around that long I guess. I made my own on the 79
T-bird, but I don't want to do that again.

BTW, I also scored another A/C system for my other truck last weekend.
This one needs a condensor, but the rest was there. WOOHOO.

This may be old but if you are going to make new ac lines like i did all
of the fittings but one are standard the large fitting going into the
evaporator was one i had a hard time finding it wasnt in any of the
fitting catalogs i looked through.
if you are careful you can take the nut that is soldered to the fitting
off and older it to another fitting of the same size tube. my local
radiator shop did this for free.with what they call silversolder so it
would hold the higher pressure.
Scott
78-79 hybrid 4wd conversion 429 c-6
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 11:04:11 -0800
From: "Mike Sealey" <75.f150 angelfire.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Canadian Fords and manuals???

On Wed, 15 Dec 1999 14:14:41 Daniel DiMartino wrote:
>
>i just bought a shop manual for my 68 f250, my question is: are
>there any differences between canadian fords and u.s. fords that
>would make this shop manual misleading?

(snip)

>...i'm not sure but it looks
>like the canadians might have had some emisions standards
>different than the u.s., other than that i know the basic
>mechanics are the same. anybody delt with a canadian ford before??

Sorry it took so long on this. (This sat in my "Drafts" folder for over a month before I finally remembered to send it...)

The GW North didn't impose smog standards until a few years after the US, and I think '68 was during the time where there was a gap.

Then there's also the Mercury issue (I think '68 was the last year for the M-250?) but I don't think there was any mechanical difference between that and the Canadian F-250.

Mike Sealey
'75 F-150 Ranger, 390/C6 ("Redneck Continental")


Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 11:17:02 -0800
From: Don Grossman pacific.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion

JJJJJGRANT aol.com wrote:
>
> one of the 4x4 magazines did an article on this subject, i have it somewhere,
> but may never find it. they did the conversion on a ext. cab swb, made a neat
> looking truck. maybe someone else knows which mag it was in.
>

The main jist of the article is that they had a good F-150 supercab
with 460 and 2x. What they did was find a donor F-150 4x, carefully
removed the crossmenbers from the frame rails in the 2x and 4x and place
the front 4x crossmember in the 2x frame. if I remember right all the
holes are drilled in both frames and the spring towers are in the
correct location. They also used the tranny/t-case combo with the
crossmember. They had a nice big lift to put the truck on and you may
have to remove large parts of the front clip to get to everything but I
think that this might be a good way to go but you were talking F-250.
does the F250 supercab have a coil of leaf spring front suspension?

since the F-250 4x4 has a 400m in it I will tend to think it is the
later model and to keep the leaf springs you will need to box in the
front of the frame for the spring hangers, remove the rear spring hanger
from inside the frame and locate it in the 2x frame. You may also need
to exchange front crossmembers to clear the front axle. If you are
going to add 6" or more of lift you might be able to get away with
leaving the current crossmember in place. The other thing is swapping
over the steering box, just more fabrication.

Laters
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 14:23:43 -0600
From: oldfords63 juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rust resistant coatings POR-15

"D. DiMartino writes: All rust must be removed!! clean clean clean is
the only way to go!!
>=============================================================
Dan, I agree completly. It's always best to remove ALL the rust. I think
your better off using it in places that are PRONE to rust AFTER you fix
it. (floorboards, trunks, door bottoms, etc. ) Nothing takes the place of
good solid sheet metal. Later, Phil
________________________________________________________________




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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 14:45:06 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting

Deacon wrote

>
> When an engine jumps time, it's not the ignition timing but the valve
> timing that has the problem.

Since the cam drives the distributor it is very much an ignition problem. If
it jumps one tooth, which is most often the case,
it is timing that keeps the engine from starting. It will run quite well
with the altered valve timing.

> If a valve is open on a compression stroke,
> there will be no compression, hence no combustion. A worn timing set can
> allow the timing chain to jump a tooth as his mechanic suggests. Once in
> a 302 I had the key in the lower timing gear give way allowing the gear
> to slip a little on the crankshaft, and had much the same results as
> you've described. There are a number of other things that could be the
> cause of this too. A compression check could give you a better idea what
> has happened. If there's no compression in any cylinder, then the valve
> timing is most likely off and a new timing set may be needed. If some
> have compression and others don't, it could be burned or bent valves. If
> there's good compression in all cylinders, then I don't know. Maybe
> muffler bearings? :]

There can be good compression even with a jumped tooth.

George H


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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 14:55:17 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - response to troublshooting help

SUGGSRD aol.com wrote:

> Thank you to all that are helping. Here is where I am.
>
> White wolf:
> Yes, #1 was about TDC when the rotor was pointed at the #1 pin on the
> distributor cap.

That pretty much rules out the timing chain, unless you had to turn the dist.
all the way to get it close.
Did you say you're getting spark?

George H

>
>
> Michael White and George H:
> I rotated the cap as much as I could while attempting to start the engine.
> Although I cannot turn in the clockwise direction more than about 1 inch.
>
> Deacon:
> I sounds like I should run a quick dry compression check. I will o this
> later this AM and post the results.
>
> Terry L. Rahn, Scott Jensen:
> I think I will remove the coil. I think the local parts store can check
> these out of the car? Do you know for certain is the + or - post on the
> distributor supposed to go to the coil.

It will start with reverse polarity. The points are connected to -. You can
stick in any coil
you have laying around or try one from another car to check it out. Even 6
volt. Just lay it on
the engine for a quick test.

George H


>
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 15:00:39 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts

.840 is the stock size. How much for those rockers?

George H

tfreeman murphyfarms.com wrote:

> Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the Comp
> Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was
> looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in diameter. I
> think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at
> Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Ted
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 15:03:48 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.

Don Jones wrote:

>
> Check an '80 to '86 f-series
>
> Do they plug into the earlier harness?

George H

>
> ______________________________________________________
> >
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 15:32:49 -0500
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts

Thanks George,

The Harland Sharp Rockers were $319 for the just the rocker arms and $129 for a
pair of what they call Heavy Duty Shafts. Comp Cams sells just the rocker arms
for about $250 (I would need to call my machinist for the exact cost), but sell
their kit for approx. $480. I was going to get the rockers from Comp Cams and
the shafts from Harland Sharp for about $370. That doesn't sound as bad to me.

Of course Comp Cams has a killer race set up for the FE, but can't afford the
$880 for the them.

Thanks again!

- -Ted




"G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net> on 01/17/2000 03:00:39 PM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts



.840 is the stock size. How much for those rockers?

George H

tfreeman murphyfarms.com wrote:

> Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the Comp
> Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was
> looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in diameter.
I
> think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at
> Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Ted
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 14:35:19 -0800
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability?

The 428 heads should work on your 390. However, if they are CJ heads and/or
have valves larger than 2.08" and 1.65", notching the cylinders will help
with airflow around the valves. As is, the valves would be really close to
the cylinder wall of a 4.05" bore block, depending on cam lift, of course.
The valve covers may look different, but they will fit on all FE Heads, I
beleive, unless you have adjustable rockers and a high lift cam.
Jason

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Sealey <75.f150 angelfire.com>
To: 61-79 Ford Truck List <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 11:57 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability?

>Is there anything I need to know about the various FE blocks out there?
We're dealing with a '75 390, planning to stay with the existing carburetion
and manifolds. I know the valve covers look a lot different on older 390s,
and wondered if there was a head design change at some point.
>Mike Sealey
>'75 F-150 Ranger, 390/C6 ("Redneck Continental")
>
>
>Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 15:55:56 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts

That's not bad considering what used stockers go for. You can't touch them on ebay
for under 100. For a mild street engine the stock shafts will do but I have a
feeling yours won't be that mild:)

George H

tfreeman murphyfarms.com wrote:

> Thanks George,
>
> The Harland Sharp Rockers were $319 for the just the rocker arms and $129 for a
> pair of what they call Heavy Duty Shafts. Comp Cams sells just the rocker arms
> for about $250 (I would need to call my machinist for the exact cost), but sell
> their kit for approx. $480. I was going to get the rockers from Comp Cams and
> the shafts from Harland Sharp for about $370. That doesn't sound as bad to me.
>
> Of course Comp Cams has a killer race set up for the FE, but can't afford the
> $880 for the them.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> -Ted
>
> "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net> on 01/17/2000 03:00:39 PM
>
> Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts
>
> .840 is the stock size. How much for those rockers?
>
> George H
>
> tfreeman murphyfarms.com wrote:
>
> > Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the Comp
> > Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was
> > looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in diameter.
> I
> > think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at
> > Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > -Ted
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:02:50 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability?

Speaking of valve covers, beware of the ones showing up on ebay and going pretty
cheap. They are the 390 GT ones and have lousy plating and won't clear
adjustables. You can tell them in the pics from the diagonal creases or ribs on
the side. There's a couple of sets on there now. They look almost like pent
roofs and one guy is advertising them to fit 427s.

George H

Jason & Kathy Kendrick wrote:

> The 428 heads should work on your 390. However, if they are CJ heads and/or
> have valves larger than 2.08" and 1.65", notching the cylinders will help
> with airflow around the valves. As is, the valves would be really close to
> the cylinder wall of a 4.05" bore block, depending on cam lift, of course.
> The valve covers may look different, but they will fit on all FE Heads, I
> beleive, unless you have adjustable rockers and a high lift cam.
> Jason
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Sealey <75.f150 angelfire.com>
> To: 61-79 Ford Truck List <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 11:57 PM
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability?
>
> >Is there anything I need to know about the various FE blocks out there?
> We're dealing with a '75 390, planning to stay with the existing carburetion
> and manifolds. I know the valve covers look a lot different on older 390s,
> and wondered if there was a head design change at some point.
> >Mike Sealey
> >'75 F-150 Ranger, 390/C6 ("Redneck Continental")
> >
> >
> >Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:10:55 -0500
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts

I've looked at Ebay. There's a set of factory adjustables out there now. It's
up to $150 and the reserve hasn't been met. For the cost difference, I would
like to have the roller tips.

I've learned alot working on this motor. The only thing I don't like so far has
been my choice of pistons. I bought cast instead of forged. When I bought
mine, I was told I could only get the 410 piston in cast. Everything else I
have is fairly beefy.

I have a vintage 6pak sitting in my spare bedroom right now. It's different
from the ones I'm used to seeing. Looks like it uses three old '50's model 2
barrels with the 2"(roughly) throats. Of course when I start rebuilding that
thing, I'm sure it'll open up a whole 'nother set of questions. I hope to post
a few pics of it in hopes of someone being able to id this setup.

- -Ted




"G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net> on 01/17/2000 03:55:56 PM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts



That's not bad considering what used stockers go for. You can't touch them on
ebay
for under 100. For a mild street engine the stock shafts will do but I have a
feeling yours won't be that mild:)

George H

tfreeman murphyfarms.com wrote:

> Thanks George,
>
> The Harland Sharp Rockers were $319 for the just the rocker arms and $129 for
a
> pair of what they call Heavy Duty Shafts. Comp Cams sells just the rocker
arms
> for about $250 (I would need to call my machinist for the exact cost), but
sell
> their kit for approx. $480. I was going to get the rockers from Comp Cams
and
> the shafts from Harland Sharp for about $370. That doesn't sound as bad to
me.
>
> Of course Comp Cams has a killer race set up for the FE, but can't afford the
> $880 for the them.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> -Ted
>
> "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net> on 01/17/2000 03:00:39 PM
>
> Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rocker Shafts
>
> .840 is the stock size. How much for those rockers?
>
> George H
>
> tfreeman murphyfarms.com wrote:
>
> > Anybody know what the O.D. of an FE Rocker Shaft is?? I'm looking at the
Comp
> > Cams roller tipped rockers, but my old shafts are worn really bad. I was
> > looking at the Harland Sharp Shafts, but they say theirs is .840 in
diameter.
> I
> > think this is larger than stock but am not sure. The reason I'm looking at
> > Harland Sharp versus Comp Cams is price.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > -Ted
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:11:22 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp angelo.edu>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine ID

Slap my hand. I knew I should have made a note of this info.

I read of a web site to decode engine id.

I'm looking to buy a 351. He doesn't know what it comes out of but his dad
rebuild it and never used it. His dad has passed on.

On the intake it has d1ae 9425 da and on the block below the head it has
d2ae ca and 2b10 if I read them right. Wasn't to good of light in the barn.

TIA for any help.

Larry

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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 08:54:47 -0800
From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.

Hi Robert,
I've got the intermittant wiper switch on the '78 Ranger Lariat F250 2WD
that I just bought, apparently an option. A pal was saying today that there
is more to it than just the switch, that you have to change the motor and
some wiring. Can't swear to the swap info, but he sounded like he knew what
he was talking about.

> Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:21:02 EST
> From: NTesla333aol.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
>
> I have a 78 F250. I want to replace the 2 speed dash mounted wiper switch,
> with an intermittent switch. Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck
> that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let me know so I
> could retrofit my truck. Thanks.
>
> Robert Bowen



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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:18:56 -0500
From: Sam Fricks gsaix2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 to AOD questions

I have a 72 f-100 with a 360 and 3 speed manual transmission. I'm
running 3.50:1 gears in the rear end and it sucks alot of gas. I'm
getting my commission as an officer in the Army soon, and will have to
go to Texas. I don't want to buy a new car because I love my truck too
much, and have to much money tied up in it also. I was wanting to put
somekind of overdrive transmission in it to make it more highway worthy.
Is there anything that will work? Does anyone make an adapter for a FE
block to bolt to an AOD? If you have any info or know of a company that
deals with this kind of stuff, please let me know.

Thanks,
Sam gsi10164gsaix2.cc.gasou.edu
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:18:22 -0600
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 300 Power Steering Pump Bracket

Folks,
What does power steering pump bracket look like for a pre-78 style pump
on a 300-6? I'm trying to find one and yard's Ford bracket bin is about
10'x15'x4' deep. Odds are there's one in there but what am I looking
for? Since I found the AC compressor bracket I'm going to guess that it
bolts to the same 4 mounting bolts low on the side of the block. Is that
where it attaches? Are there any pictures of one somewhere on the web?
Thanks,
Brett
Super75cab
________________________________________________________________




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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:41:34 -0800
From: wicowboy gateway.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Long Term Tire Storage

Anyone know the best way to store tires to avoid dry-rot, flatspots,
etc? Having a whole fleet of trucks I have a lot of tires that sit for
long periods of time, anyone got any suggestions on storing them? Right
Now I have all my large tires (expensive ones) in the basement for
winter. 40" Boggers, 44" Ground hawgs and Boggers, 40" Swampers
(2-sets). These tires often sit for months at a time, right now I have
them in the warm basement on wood palates standing up right, inflated
to normal pressure covered with blankets. Love that smell in my
basement! Anyone have any other tips on how to preserve these?

WICoWbOy
'74 F-250 4x2 360, np435
'75 F-250 4x4 390, np435
'77 F-150 4x4 460, C-6, SWB, 12" lift, being converted to Dana 60 front
(thanks OX)
'79 F-250 4x2 460, C-6
'79 F-250 4x4, 514ci (Ford SVO), np435,Dana 60 f/r, 5.13 gears, soon to
be c-6, 11" lift, 4" Chrome Stacks front of bed
'79 Bronco P/u (super short box), 460, C-6, recieving new frame and
3/4-ton running gear
Also building cousins '84 Bronco, just got 3/4-ton leave springs f/r,
8-bolt Dana 44 front, 60 rear with 4.10's, just started 460 today for
first time, C-6, np205, waiting on driveshafts and steering
components...
Good Thing I have 40 acres.....
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 18:14:18 -0800
From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - : 2WD to 4WD swaps

> >Howdy Folks,
> >Couple of questions.#1. Will the 2WD rear axle and springs from a 78
F250 2WD
> >swap over to a 79 F250 4x4 assuming that ratio's are the same? #2 What
brake
> >parts from the front axle of the above 78 will swap over to the 79 4X4?
> >Thanks
> > > Patsplace
> > > 78 F-150 W/Overloads
> > > 77 F-250 4X4
> > > 79 F-250 4X4 Dream Truck Under Way
> > > 72 F150 Ranger parts truck
> > > 79 F250 Lariat donor vech. for the '79 4X4



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Date: (No, or invalid, date.)
From: "Mike" connect.ab.ca>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re:intermittent wipers

I believe any 73-79 F series intermittent switch should work. You have =
to get the switch and timer box off the same truck. There is no differenc=
e in the factory harness and the box plugs in between that and the switch=
. Only one extra wire (black) which goes to ground.

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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:26:30 -0800
From: Don nidlink.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.

I have scoured junkyards and people parting out rigs and there are 2 parts
to the intermittent wiper setup.
1. the switch itself which will turn to the left in a wide range
2. the "Brain" which is a little black plastic box that mountson the
bottom lip of the dash on the inside.
On any model you run into, a non-imtermittent switch will turn 2 clicks to
the right and to turn of,will turn only two clicks back to the left. The
intermittent switch will turn two clicks to the right,then turn two clicks
left to turn off..then turn to left after that and it will
increase-decrease wiper delay
I have seen this on 77-79 f150's,f250's and broncos generally of the xlt
models..i have not looked at previous years so can't say....
Also a neat thing I have found is the underhood lights that activate upon
lifting hood and then shut off when in closed position.....hmmm...sorta
like the refrigerator light thing...is it REALLY off when the door is
closed????if so ...how can you see if it is off???? ;-)
Another thing I have found is locks for the glove box, some models hav em
some don't....

Don 79BroncoXLT


At 08:54 1/17/00 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi Robert,
> I've got the intermittant wiper switch on the '78 Ranger Lariat F250 2WD
>that I just bought, apparently an option. A pal was saying today that there
>is more to it than just the switch, that you have to change the motor and
>some wiring. Can't swear to the swap info, but he sounded like he knew what
>he was talking about.
>
> > Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:21:02 EST
> > From: NTesla333aol.com
> > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
> >
> > I have a 78 F250. I want to replace the 2 speed dash mounted wiper switch,
> > with an intermittent switch. Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck
> > that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let me know so I
> > could retrofit my truck. Thanks.
> >
> > Robert Bowen
>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 10:21:47 -0600
From: "Steve Beadle" mindspring.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: FE head interchangeability.

All of the FE heads will bolt up to the 390. The only problem is that the
exhaust bolt patterns vary. Some heads (most) have an eight bolt top/bottom
pattern on each head, some have 14 bolt holes and some have 16. The 428
heads should work on the 390 unless they are CJ or SCJ heads. The 427 big
valve heads won't work but I would be impressed if you find any of these.
If you have any other questions there is an FE forum at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://network54.com/Forum/21142 . There are a lot of FEers there that know
their stuff. If you can get the casting #'s off of the e-bay heads from the
seller these guys could let you know if they will fit your application.

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 00:50:41 EST
From: SUGGSRDaol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!!

Thanks you guys for the ideas. I solved it so I thought I better let you
know how it ended (not a pretty sight). As it turns out it was the timing
chain slipped a tooth. This is how it played out. Before lunch I was
starting to think that maybe it was having a carburetor problem that was
flooding it. I removed the fuel line from the pump and carburetor allows it
to rest the tried a little starting fluid. I got the most meager pop or two.
I talked to the owner and deduced that the new tune-up parts were from the
previous mechanics attempt to repair by changing parts. Then I cam in and
read the recent posts. George said something about ruling out the timing
unless the distributor was turned all the way over. I thought to myself that
the previous mechanic may have moved the distributor to its present position.
Which was as far clockwise as it would turn? I went back out now that the
engine was not flooded and cranked while turning the distributor. The engine
tried to fire a little when pushed to Max clockwise. So I lifted the
distributor and moved it one tooth. The engine started right up. I drove it
down the street and it is very gutless but I don't know how bad it was before
I started.

I guess I will have to install the timing chain for him. Even if it runs OK
now I imagine that the chain will slip again. Once the car warms up and is
put under a real load. It is a shame to waste the money on a timing chain
for this engine. The compression check I did showed 73-95. Aren't these
motors supposed to have about 125? I tried to convince him we should go find
a junkyard engine for about $300 and he would be better off. But this is all
the money the guy has.

Thanks for the help everyone and it was fun to do this on the web.
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 05:13:52 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech. trouble shooting. The Answer!!!!

Don't drive it at all! You could wind up with valves hitting pistons.

You can R&R the timing set without dropping the pan, they even sell gasket sets
for this with just the front parts of the pan gasket, but it's a pain to do and
there's bound to be a load of nylon gear teeth in the pan. These can get past the
oil pump pickup screen and jam the pump which will twist the drive off. The
screen is made so it will open and allow oil past it in the event that it gets
clogged.

George h


SUGGSRDaol.com wrote:

> Thanks you guys for the ideas. I solved it so I thought I better let you
> know how it ended (not a pretty sight). As it turns out it was the timing
> chain slipped a tooth. This is how it played out. Before lunch I was
> starting to think that maybe it was having a carburetor problem that was
> flooding it. I removed the fuel line from the pump and carburetor allows it
> to rest the tried a little starting fluid. I got the most meager pop or two.
> I talked to the owner and deduced that the new tune-up parts were from the
> previous mechanics attempt to repair by changing parts. Then I cam in and
> read the recent posts. George said something about ruling out the timing
> unless the distributor was turned all the way over. I thought to myself that
> the previous mechanic may have moved the distributor to its present position.
> Which was as far clockwise as it would turn? I went back out now that the
> engine was not flooded and cranked while turning the distributor. The engine
> tried to fire a little when pushed to Max clockwise. So I lifted the
> distributor and moved it one tooth. The engine started right up. I drove it
> down the street and it is very gutless but I don't know how bad it was before
> I started.
>
> I guess I will have to install the timing chain for him. Even if it runs OK
> now I imagine that the chain will slip again. Once the car warms up and is
> put under a real load. It is a shame to waste the money on a timing chain
> for this engine. The compression check I did showed 73-95. Aren't these
> motors supposed to have about 125? I tried to convince him we should go find
> a junkyard engine for about $300 and he would be better off. But this is all
> the money the guy has.
>
> Thanks for the help everyone and it was fun to do this on the web.
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

End of 61-79-list-digest V4 #23
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