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From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V4 #22
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
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61-79-list-digest Monday, January 17 2000 Volume 04 : Number 022



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Truck worse than I thought...
FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines
FTE 61-79 - Instument Panels
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rust resistant coatings for the ages
FTE 61-79 - 300 split exhaust studs
FTE 61-79 - '64 Falcon Van $25
FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion
FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.
FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability?
FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help!

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 08:37:35 -0600
From: "John D. Naas II" cei.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck worse than I thought...

After much cleaning and dirt removal, I hooked up the jumper cables to my 74
F-250 302, to see where the power would go. Nothing, no headlights, NOTHING.
I wirebrushed all connections and I know power was going to it. Anybody
know? Wires? one of the little rusty boxes under the hood? Fuses checked
good. Wouldn't turn over or even click.
Next problem: the "shackle" holding the back of the drivers side rear leaf
spring to the frame is just about rusted away. I think if I jumped up and
down on the bed the spring would break away and the truck would fall. Is
this an expensive part? It doesn't look to difficult, but ive said that
before...
The flatbed is toast, rotten wood everywhere. I also found where somebody
stretched the frame in the rear by about 3 feet to make the bed longer.
Dont know if I like this or not. Anyway, thanks in advance for any help.
John.
1974 F-250 Custom, 302, 4 speed
1993 Thunderbird SC
1993 Thunderbird LX



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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 10:41:19 EST
From: BanksRVA aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lines

Anyone had any experience with any companies that offer pre bent brake lines?
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 10:11:59 -0600
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine" navix.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Instument Panels

Muel,
>Will the 79 instrument cluster just plug into the 75?
hmmm......don't know

>Does anyone have the physical specifications for the "shunt" type AMP gauge
>in the 73 up trucks?
IIRC the amp gauge reads full scale at approximately 0.9 amps. This
ammeter thing was discussed at length during september-October of '98, there
used to be an mailing list archives on the web site but I can't find it now.
If anyone has a copy of those original posts they should really be posted as
a tech article, it seems this subject comes up every once in awhile and the
info is very useful to anyone who wants a working ammeter. Tom Hogan had
the best description for the physical properties of the circuit. I know
that Tom's descriptions saved me many hours of wire tracing.

>Just what is suppose to be there to make the gauge
>work?
The objective is to increase the shunt resistance so that the meter receives
a measurable current value. Different people have solved this problem with
different approaches. Some have used resistance wire......I just used a 5'
piece of #12 stranded thhn building wire as a temporary solution, (still in
place 18 months later). *Note*; Ford used #10 wire for the shunt...I used
#12 because it was handy, #12 will not take full charging current for
prolonged periods without overheating. In other words, if you use #12 and
run the battery way down the shunt will likely overheat during recharge.

>Will the type of connection at this point (crimp-vs-solder) make a
>difference?
Not initially, both are very low resistance connections. The difference
comes with reliability over the years. Corrosion will take its toll on a
crimped connection sooner and the reliability of the soldered connection
should be higher.......assuming that both are well done. My connections
are crimped, (fast and easy), but I think that soldered connections are
better long term.

>Will the strand count of the wire affect the functionality?
No

>Will gravitational flux interfere with the reluctance capacitance if the
>framisoidial thingamawhoosit, if there is one during these years?
Uhhh......a definite maybe!

Muel, I love your posts.
Have you fired the 400 that you were building last year??

later,
dale
'79 f-150





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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:26:56 -0500
From: "Brad Smith" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rust resistant coatings for the ages

- ----- Original Message -----
From: seanet.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Cc: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2000 11:03 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rust resistant coatings for the ages


> At 04:42 PM 15:1:00 -0800, D. DiMartino wrote:
> >this stuff must be good from all the people who have experiance
> >with it. but as i said before in my sermon about rust, all rust
> >must be removed!! i know some use this POR-15 right over rust
> >and think it has some molecular miricle bonding properties but i
> >say hog wash. clean clean clean is the only way to go!!
> >
> >--- oldfords63 juno.com wrote:
> >> A few days back Gary P. was asking what would be a good
> >> coating to put on
> >> his new cab / frame mounts
> >> POR-15 is as close to bullet proof as I've found.
> >>
>
> My favorite paint retailer is an old body man, he told me one
> horror story about POR-15. If you use it to stop rust from spredding
> you're wasting you time, because when you decide to fix it right, you
> wont be able to get the stuff off. Seems a buddy of his used it to
> protect a 50 Ford, painted the car with a roller, a good thick coating,
> lotsa protection.....they wound up chipping it off with a needle scaler.

I used it under the battery tray on a 65 stang... but I wouldn't use it on
the whole car for sure!!!

Brad


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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:22:13 -0600
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 300 split exhaust studs

Folks,
Have those of you who have retrofitted the later split exhaust manifolds
to the earlier head installed the 4 extra bolts? This would involve
drilling and tapping the head and installing 4 short studs.
Jus' wonderin' if this is something I should have done to ensure the
gasket seal and proper alignment.
Brett
Super75cab
________________________________________________________________




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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:50:07 -0800
From: Carver ncwebsurfer.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '64 Falcon Van $25

That's not a typo! Got a call today from my open
ended wanted ad for '64 Ford truck parts.
Michael has a '64 Ford Falcon Van (window version)
in good shape, only thing wrong is the engine.
He was asking $50 earlier today.

Just got another call offering a running driveable
'78 Granada with a poor water pump that is
supposed to have the right motor for the van
to go with the deal, AND he's dropped the price
to $25. Says he has title to the van, didn't
say about the Granada. $25 for both.

If I wasn't planning on moving into town in a few
months and SWMBO had a little humor, I'd get it,
or rather them. I don't even have time to play
with my truck right now, so I'd never find time
to mess with these.

Anyway, give Michael a call, 530-268-7462.
I could even store them for a short time if needed,
just don't tell SWMBO.

In case you didn't read the rules, a van is a truck,
so there is content.

Oh yah, another local deal in the paper.
'71 Ford 3 ton, 16ft steel stake bed. Runs excellent
new tires, $2250. 530-273-1497 or 530-271-7561 pgr

Al of these in the Grass Valley area,
35 miles east of Sacramento.

Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab


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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:15:48 EST
From: NTesla333 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion

I have 78 F250 Extended Cab 2WD 460 with 4.10 rear and C6 AT. I have
purchased a scraped 77 F250 Reg. Cab 4WD 400M 4.10 axles w/ manual trans and
NP205. The running gear seems fine. What would your suggestions be to make
this conversion? I have three options for my conversion.
1) I could cut the front part of the frame cut from under the 4WD, with all
necessary components and weld it to the back part of the existing frame.
2) Or I could unbolt/cut the 2WD components and bolt in the 4WD stuff. I
don't know if this option would work. Is the 2WD frame the same as the 4WD,
if not this option probably would not work.
3) I could strip the regular cab 4WD down to the frame and running gear. I
have been told that I could cut the regular cab and add to it for the
additional length needed for the extended cab. Then, I could bolt my extended
cab, and bed to the lengthened frame and swap motors.
Which option would seem to be the easiest, fastest and produce the best
result?
Finally, which motor is better mileage and maintenance for a daily driver.
The 400M or the 460. Thanks for your assistance.

Robert Bowen

Robert Bowen
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:21:02 EST
From: NTesla333 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.

I have a 78 F250. I want to replace the 2 speed dash mounted wiper switch,
with an intermittent switch. Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck
that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let me know so I
could retrofit my truck. Thanks.

Robert Bowen
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 23:32:30 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD to 4WD conversion

one of the 4x4 magazines did an article on this subject, i have it somewhere,
but may never find it. they did the conversion on a ext. cab swb, made a neat
looking truck. maybe someone else knows which mag it was in.

jeff grant
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 23:35:57 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.

i had a 77 with intermittent wipers, it has a special wiper switch and a
delay box plugs in to the factory wiring going to the motor. i took the set
up off the truck, i have the box but i don't know what happenend to the
switch, the switch used to be available from ford, it may even be available
in your local auto parts store.

jeff grant
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 00:11:39 -0500
From: j arnold ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.

At 08:21 PM 1/16/00 EST, you wrote:
>I have a 78 F250. I want to replace the 2 speed dash mounted wiper switch,
>with an intermittent switch. Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck
>that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let me know so I
>could retrofit my truck. Thanks.
>
>Robert Bowen
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
My '83 F250 has dash mounted intermittent wiper switch.

stoney

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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 21:23:13 -0800
From: John Lord home.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intermittent wipers.

Intermitant wiper assy; is out of a 77 mustang. they are all the same, in
respect that the box and new switch from any of the 70's cars or trucks will
fit into a non intermittant of the same time period. I get mine from the
wreckers, and just shorten the switch rod to the correct length,

NTesla333 aol.com wrote:

> I have a 78 F250. I want to replace the 2 speed dash mounted wiper switch,
> with an intermittent switch. Do any of you all know of any year Ford truck
> that had dash mounted intermittent wiper switch? Please, let me know so I
> could retrofit my truck. Thanks.
>
> Robert Bowen
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 23:57:15 -0800
From: "Mike Sealey" <75.f150 angelfire.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Head Interchangeability?

As those who have been following the saga recall, Connie needs a valve job to pass the California smog test. My plan is to pick up a set of heads elsewhere, have the machine work done, and throw them on as quickly as reasonably possible, not only lessening downtime but allowing me to set the existing heads aside for use at a later time.

Is there anything I need to know about the various FE blocks out there? We're dealing with a '75 390, planning to stay with the existing carburetion and manifolds (for now), and will need to pass California smog when all is done. I know the valve covers look a lot different on older 390s, and wondered if there was a head design change at some point. I'm also high bidder on a set of 428 heads on eBay; if those aren't going to work I guess I'd better either hope I get outbid or hope someone here will want them.

Mike Sealey
'75 F-150 Ranger, 390/C6 ("Redneck Continental")


Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 03:06:22 EST
From: SUGGSRD aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help!

I am helping a neighbor who is out of money and down on his luck. I am
hoping to find a forum either here or a link elsewhere to get some
troubleshooting help. I used to be a fair shade tree Mechanic but it has
been 10 years since I did any major wrench turning. Most of my experience
has been with Fords but this one has me perplexed.

So here is the problem. He has a 1967 Ford ranch wagon. 289 with an auto
transmission somewhere near 200 k probably. The owner was driving about 35
MPH (as usual or less). When he turned into a parking lot the car was very
gutless. When he parked the car finally died and hasn't run since. His
mechanic who usually works on the car said he "THINKS" it has a skipped
timing chain. It is obvious that the points condenser cap rotor and plug
wires are very new. When I try to start the engine turns over normally but I
cannot even get a smallest of small cough from it. There is gas as I saw it
injected with the accelerator pump. There is spark at the plug, as tested by
removing a plug and cranking the engine. The spark maybe looked a little
weak but that is very subjective from someone as rusty as me. The
distributor turns when the engine is cranked, so the timing chain is not
broken. I checked static timing by turning engine to TDC as indicated on the
dampener and checking the position of the rotor in relation to the #1 wire on
the cap. This is hard to be exact but it looks very close. The contact
should be touching or it is maybe going to be a little late. It looks close
enough that I should at least get a cough out of the engine. Another strange
thing. Although I had never tried this I put the timing light on the engine
and cranked it even though it wasn't running. Thought I could see where the
timing was this way. But the timing light won't light at all. I checked it
on my car while it was running and the light worked fine. I did some tests
on the coil with a VOM. I think that the coil is working OK. I noticed that
the negative primary coil wire is going to the Distributor. I can't remember
is that right.
Any trouble shooting is appreciated. If this is not the right place for this
type of question can you point me to a good site for this.
Sincerely,
Bob Suggs
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 01:51:09 PST
From: "White Wolf" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mech trouble shooting help or link to a site for this help!

Was the #1 piston up when the #1 plug was about to fire? Maybe the chain
jumped 180 out (unlikely but possible). sounds a little too deep for me..



>I am helping a neighbor who is out of money and down on his luck. I am
>hoping to find a forum either here or a link elsewhere to get some
>troubleshooting help. I used to be a fair shade tree Mechanic but it has
>been 10 years since I did any major wrench turning. Most of my experience
>has been with Fords but this one has me perplexed.
>
>So here is the problem. He has a 1967 Ford ranch wagon. 289 with an auto....


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