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From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V4 #4
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Precedence: bulk


61-79-list-digest Wednesday, January 5 2000 Volume 04 : Number 004



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
majordomo ford-trucks.com
with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE
RE: FTE 61-79 - Whoops.....Ouch!..locks & keys
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE
FTE 61-79 - California Dreamin'....
FTE 61-79 - HEGH-Y Output Shaft
FTE 61-79 - 390 FE VS the new 5.4
FTE 61-79 - Tire Balancing
FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car
FTE 61-79 - New truck!! 8^)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stainless Valves
FTE 61-79 - Starliners with F-E's
FTE 61-79 - Re: Rough running on Damp mornings
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE VS the new 5.4
FTE 61-79 - 390 engine rebuild (propane)
FTE 61-79 - Highboys
FTE 61-79 - Azie 5sp/3sp aux
FTE 61-79 - 78 f250 extended cab for sale
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 engine rebuild (propane)
Re: FTE 61-79 - test
Re: FTE 61-79 - test
Re: FTE 61-79 - New truck!! 8^)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car
RE: FTE 61-79 - c6 continuous problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2 wheel drive front suspension
FTE 61-79 - Sort of off the subject
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car
FTE 61-79 - i believe i've sinned
FTE 61-79 - Mechanics Wire
Re: FTE 61-79 - new member
FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals
FTE 61-79 - Re: Headshake
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals
FTE 61-79 - new cam for my 390
Re: FTE 61-79 - new cam for my 390
FTE 61-79 - Magazines

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:57:54 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE

> What is the rival of the 390? (in engine).
> Can the 390 out pull a 400/351m?

In stock form (stock for stock) I'd say the rival is probably the 460 ...
the 400 and 351M were built to replace the 390/360 combo, but due to
impending emssions requirements and such, I'm not sure they actually lived
up to the legacy in the power department (stock for stock here) ... when it
comes to modified motors I think they all end up on par based on what amount
of money you're willing to spend on one and how many revs you're pulling,
etc.

I have seen some hot running motors, both 390's and 400's ... never got to
race em though (gotta buddy with a hopped up 400 in a truck similar to mine,
it would be an interesting race :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:26:09 -0700
From: "Bertolin" Ford-trucks.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Whoops.....Ouch!..locks & keys

Daniel wrote:
as long as we are speaking of holding the hoods shut, are there
> any hood locks that are kept out of sight? how bought a better
> ignition key set?? theft always concerns me, even though any
> half wit thief could hot wire and old ford. I used to laugh at
> the movies at how quick a guy could hot wire one, until I owned
> and old truck!!

My brother welded a bracket on my truck that allows for a concealed padlock
in the grill. The main reason was to discourage theft of battery etc. but it
also serves the purpose of insuring hood won't fly up. Roberta with 1965
F-100 Custom Cab


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 15:21:58 -0800
From: "A Bernal" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE

what about the 429?

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 2:57 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE


> > What is the rival of the 390? (in engine).
> > Can the 390 out pull a 400/351m?
>
> In stock form (stock for stock) I'd say the rival is probably the 460 ...
> the 400 and 351M were built to replace the 390/360 combo, but due to
> impending emssions requirements and such, I'm not sure they actually lived
> up to the legacy in the power department (stock for stock here) ... when
it
> comes to modified motors I think they all end up on par based on what
amount
> of money you're willing to spend on one and how many revs you're pulling,
> etc.
>
> I have seen some hot running motors, both 390's and 400's ... never got to
> race em though (gotta buddy with a hopped up 400 in a truck similar to
mine,
> it would be an interesting race :)
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
> 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 18:32:02 EST
From: OldTrux aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - California Dreamin'....

This midwest boy (Chicago 'burbs) will finally get to see the Pacific Ocean
come March!! While I am there (on business), I thought about checking out
salvage yards, used parts, custom trucks..... Can anyone recommend places to
visit around Long Beach? Any fun places to visit (in addition to the salvage
yards)?
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:42:18 -0800
From: "O'Connor" mindspring.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - HEGH-Y Output Shaft

Help,
Does anyone have an output shaft for a medium duty Ford 3-speed
transmission (HEG-Y). It's the one for a short wheelbase that will fit my
66 F100. It uses a slip yoke instead of the bolt on yoke that longbeds use!
Tim
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 15:44:44 -0800
From: "A Bernal" hotmail.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE VS the new 5.4

Can a 390FE out pull a new 1999/2000 Ford with the v8 5.4L? ( I think it is
5.4L)
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 18:07:18 -0800
From: "Charles T." hal-pc.org>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tire Balancing

Need a little help on my 79 F150 4x4...

I have a set of Q78LT16 Buckshot Mudder Tires (36 inches tall) mounted on
aluminum wheels(16 inch). The tires are BIASED PLY, not radial. When trying
to balance them, the computer showed that each would need 15-19 ounzes of
weight. The tire shop said that this much weight would cause just as much
'Shake' as not balancing them at all. He reccommended not balancing them.

Is this information correct? If so, will I be able to drive on the street at
all?? (60-70mph)??
If not, anyone in the market for a set of offroad tires?

I know these are not good street tires, but was hoping they would do for a
while anyway.

Charles Tyer
79 F150 4x4
79 F150 2x4
95 Windstar (SWMBO)

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:09:40 -0800
From: "John Kosche" email.msn.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car

I've got a 65 Ranchero (Yeah, Yeah in know it's not really a truck) It's a
289 - C4 combo. I'm collecting parts to do a 5.0L (Roller motor) and AOD
swap.. I need a reference to a good Transmission guy in the Seattle area
to Rebuild the AOD.

Thanks

- -john


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 19:09:06 -0600
From: Stu Varner ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New truck!! 8^)

Well ladies and gents, I bought the 1968 F-100, SWB, 2 wheel drive, 31,000
original mile,
pebble beige truck I have been referring to over the last few days.
It does have a nice 240 inline 6 banger and a Light duty 3 speed tranny
with 3.70 rear end.
Marino will love that!

I will have my work cut out for me as I will need to replace the entire
front suspension
including I-beams, radius arms and tie rod. They were munched to heck and
back. Frame has been straightened
so things should work out smoothly - I hope! It also needs an entirely new
front cap.
I also bought a very straight and rust free hood to go with it from a 72.
Thank God I live in the "rust free" (TN) south instead of the "rust belt"
of West Virginia
where I grew up.

BTW- I am looking for an undented and rust free 1968 or 1969 painted grille
shell and headlight doors as
well as turn signal lenses if
anyone has this for sale out there in FTE land. E-mail me off list for specs
and pricing.

Here we go again!

Later on.........geez I love these old trucks!!!!!

Stu
Nuke GM!
1971 F-100 4x4 360 4 speed
1968 F-100 2x4 240 inline 3 speed
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:04:24 -0500
From: "Brad Smith" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck White jps.net>
To: 61-79 Ford Trucks <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 5:13 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings


> Just to recap I have been having occasional problems with really rough
> running on cold and wet mornings for the first couple of minutes after
> startup. Thanks to all of your suggestions concerning carburetor and
choke
> problems. The choke is working perfectly and the carburetor also appears
to
> be working perfectly. This morning the same thing happened again. Thinking
> about the rainy weather I took off the distributor cap. I couldn't see
any
> moisture in there but I wiped it out with a rag anyway and that seemed to
> solve the problem. Does anybody know if there is anything made for this
> type of problem that I can spray on the inside of the cap to prevent this
> from happening. I thought of silicone but I don't want to mess anything
up
> without checking first. And I sure don't want to have to stand out in the
> rain wiping the cap to make it go.
>
> Chuck
> '71 F-250 390 C-6

Replace the cap with a vented one... I've never heard of putting anything
inside the cap, because any drying agent is going to be tough on the
contacts.... Good luck.

Brad


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:07:36 -0500
From: "Brad Smith" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE

- ----- Original Message -----
From: A Bernal hotmail.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 6:21 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE


> what about the 429?
>
The 429 is a little better for top end, whereas the longer stroked 460 would
have more torque (again, stock for stock).



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:11:50 -0500
From: "Brad Smith" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car

- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Kosche email.msn.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 7:09 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car


> I've got a 65 Ranchero (Yeah, Yeah in know it's not really a truck) It's a
> 289 - C4 combo. I'm collecting parts to do a 5.0L (Roller motor) and AOD
> swap.. I need a reference to a good Transmission guy in the Seattle area
> to Rebuild the AOD.
>
> Thanks
>
> -john

Do it yourself!!! Save tons o money...

Brad


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 17:15:02 PST
From: "George Litton" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stainless Valves

BILL,

Considering the application of this engine, the multi-groove will work fine.

The purpose of the multi-groove is for valve rotation. If you look at the
keepers, you will see that they butt against each other. A single groove
set-up does not do this. There is a small gap between the keepers to "lock"
the valve in place. The single groove set-up relies on the 7 degree taper
of the lock to hold the valve in place. For high rpm use, the single groove
is superior, but low rpm trucks live just fine with the multi groove.

Another consideration is the change-over cost. Hardened multi-groove
keepers are out there, and that is recommened for high-lift cams[.490 and
greater lift].


>From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: "Offroad List" ford-trucks.com>, "Performance
>List" ford-trucks.com>, "61-79 List"
><61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stainless Valves
>Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 08:29:57 -0800
>
>All other things being equal (price, availability, etc.), should I go with
>multi groove keeper or single groove keeper stainless valves on my 400?
>
>"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"
>
>
>
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______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 20:46:13 -0600
From: oldfords63 juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Starliners with F-E's

Man Azie- you probably hate it that you sold that one! I've got a 63 1/2,
and I sure hate to let go of it. Later, Phil


________________________________________________________________




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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 20:50:43 -0600
From: oldfords63 juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rough running on Damp mornings

> Thinking about the rainy weather I took off the distributor cap.
>Does anybody know if there is anything made for this type of problem
that I can spray on the >inside of the cap to prevent this from
happening.
=============================================================
Chuck- try a product from CRC called 5-56, it's a real good moisture
displacer. Make sure your cap is vented too. Some times blowby or other
moisture gets in there and can't get out. Check wires and coil too. (in
the dark if ya can ) zap, zap.......Good luck, Phil
________________________________________________________________




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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 20:31:34 -0600
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE VS the new 5.4

I would be inclined to say yes, a 390 should out pull a 5.4L. However,
with out knowing the hp and torque numbers of the 5.4L, I'm not
positive.

Jason Kendrick

A Bernal wrote:
>
> Can a 390FE out pull a new 1999/2000 Ford with the v8 5.4L?
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:52:52 -0800
From: Jamie canadawired.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 engine rebuild (propane)

I have a '68 F250 with a 360 (converted to propane) and it just rolled
over 100k miles. In pursuit of additional power and to try something
I've never done, I would like to get my hands on a rebuildable 390, take
my time in rebuilding it, and replace my 360 with the rebuild. My
intention is to try and get 300+ horsepower from the 390 by means of a
mild cam (RV??), increased compression ratio (propane is apparently
about 110 - not sure up to what CR I can go to...), and maybe headers
and dual exhaust, budget permitting. For the sake of trying to keep
things as simple as possible, I'm wondering if I'll need to replace my
existing stock carb and intake manifold (2 barrel). The reason I
hesitate to mess with the carburation is because the carb seems to
provide more than enough fuel for the horsepower I'm interested in. I
currently get about 11 miles per gallon so I figure that should
translate into a fair amount of available fuel. The other thing is I'm
a little nervous to start messing with the propane set-up unless I
really need to. Maybe it's not so much a matter of needing to make
extra fuel available for the bigger motor but rather improving the
efficiency of getting that air-fuel mixture to the cylinders......intake
manifold?? Just throwing it out there...

One of the "neat" things about my existing propane setup is that it
feeds the 360 through my stock air cleaner and 2 barrel carb - no
special aftermarket carb. During the conversion process the shop cut
the base off the air cleaner housing and in its place riveted a propane
injection ring (for lack of a better description). The propane line
from the evaporator runs to this "ring" at the base of the air cleaner
housing and the air-propane mixture continues through the venturis and
intake manifold as did the air-gas mixture. All the carb linkages
remain intact except the manual choke has been disconnected. Seems like
a fairly elegant/simple set-up.

Bottom line, I want more horsepower, and happy to replace pistons, cam,
and exhaust system but really don't want to mess with the carb and/or
intake manifold unless its foolish not to given the time and $$ invested
in such a job. Any comments or suggestions would be very kindly
appreciated.

Rob

Vancouver BC, Canada

68 F250 360 ci, automatic, camper special
94 Mustang GT 5.0L
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------------------------------

Date: 4 Jan 00 21:57:41 EST
From: "Dave W." usa.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Highboys

Hey all. Saw the questions on Highboys. =

Highboys were made up to the middle of 1977.
To be a true Highboy it must have heavy front axle with big hubs, 6 leaf
spring pack in front, 9 leaf pack in rear. The lighter 3/4 ton 4x4's do s=
it
high but aren't considered the highboys
Dave Complete and Total FordNut, Highboy Nut(I have 7), and FE Nut too!!!=
!

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=3D1
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:12:09 -0600
From: "Bob & Becky Elliott" ptsi.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Azie 5sp/3sp aux

Azie, I have a number of questions about your aux trans set up. I understand
the shifting of the all manual set up, but how will you shift the aux behind
the c-6? It seems to me there was some discussion about getting t-cases in &
out of gear behind an auto. To a certain extent, it seems as if you could
simulate double clutching by letting up on the gas and going into OD. I have
a 5sp out of a 64 F700 but I can find no markings to ID it by.Do you have
any ideas on what to look for? What bellhousing do you use to mate a 460 &
Clark? I want to put a 5sp/aux in my 79 F250 crewcab as a camper pull rig,
and a 460/5sp/aux/205 in my F150 Supercab. If you need some pictures of aux
mounting brackets, let me know. I have 1 in a International, and 2 hanging
on a rack I'm going to send this to you, because I'm not sure it pretains
to the list. Bob


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:01:08 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 f250 extended cab for sale

a friend of mine has a 1978 f250 2wd, extended cab, short bed for sale, it
has a 460, automatic trans, power steering, ac, etc. its not a real pretty
truck, but not bad either, i think it has the original paint (brown and tan
two tone) he wants $3000.00 for it. if anyone is interested tou can call him
at 770-412-0429, 8-5 eastern standard time,his name is mark,

jeff grant
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 19:11:50 -0800
From: John Lord home.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 engine rebuild (propane)

If you want any direct answers to propane questions, your welcome to email
me directly, I do my own conversions and can help anyone in regards to
installation and troubleshooting.
In regards to a rebuild propane is 105 to 115 octane, so you can up the
compression ratio to at least 11 and up to 13 to 1 depending on how your
using your truck if you haul alot or tow, stay near 11 to 11.5 to 1. I am
running my
F250 4x4 Crew Cab at 13.5 to one and it is a little high when towing. At
those ratio's i recommend you just throw out the Gasoline system all
together, it would tend to preignite (even with octane boost and retarted
timing) under load.
The timing advance curves are also very different between propane and
gasoline you can purchase ignition boxes that will change the timing when
you swap fuels but it still isnt perfect.
You can throw out your 2bbl carb and manifold for a 4bbl if you want, you
do not need to change the injection ring (properly called a mixer), If you
want to run straight propane you can usually (depending on the brand of
mixer) simply buy an adapter and attach it to the baseplate of the old
carburator (the part of the carb with the butterflys).
If you rebuild an engine properly for propane you will have the horsepower
you need (and more)

If you email me with the brand name of your propane system (on the
evaporator *converter*) i should be able to give you some tip's on setting
it up.

Jamie wrote:

> I have a '68 F250 with a 360 (converted to propane) and it just rolled
> over 100k miles. In pursuit of additional power and to try something
> I've never done, I would like to get my hands on a rebuildable 390, take
> my time in rebuilding it, and replace my 360 with the rebuild. My
> intention is to try and get 300+ horsepower from the 390 by means of a
> mild cam (RV??), increased compression ratio (propane is apparently
> about 110 - not sure up to what CR I can go to...), and maybe headers
> and dual exhaust, budget permitting. For the sake of trying to keep
> things as simple as possible, I'm wondering if I'll need to replace my
> existing stock carb and intake manifold (2 barrel). The reason I
> hesitate to mess with the carburation is because the carb seems to
> provide more than enough fuel for the horsepower I'm interested in. I
> currently get about 11 miles per gallon so I figure that should
> translate into a fair amount of available fuel. The other thing is I'm
> a little nervous to start messing with the propane set-up unless I
> really need to. Maybe it's not so much a matter of needing to make
> extra fuel available for the bigger motor but rather improving the
> efficiency of getting that air-fuel mixture to the cylinders......intake
> manifold?? Just throwing it out there...
>
> One of the "neat" things about my existing propane setup is that it
> feeds the 360 through my stock air cleaner and 2 barrel carb - no
> special aftermarket carb. During the conversion process the shop cut
> the base off the air cleaner housing and in its place riveted a propane
> injection ring (for lack of a better description). The propane line
> from the evaporator runs to this "ring" at the base of the air cleaner
> housing and the air-propane mixture continues through the venturis and
> intake manifold as did the air-gas mixture. All the carb linkages
> remain intact except the manual choke has been disconnected. Seems like
> a fairly elegant/simple set-up.
>
> Bottom line, I want more horsepower, and happy to replace pistons, cam,
> and exhaust system but really don't want to mess with the carb and/or
> intake manifold unless its foolish not to given the time and $$ invested
> in such a job. Any comments or suggestions would be very kindly
> appreciated.
>
> Rob
>
> Vancouver BC, Canada
>
> 68 F250 360 ci, automatic, camper special
> 94 Mustang GT 5.0L
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 19:20:04 PST
From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - test

Got it



>From: "Charles T." hal-pc.org>
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - test
>Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:57:06 -0800
>
>other post didn't go thru.....testing this one
>
>79 F150 4x4 swb 460 swap
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:23:22 -0800
From: "Charles T." hal-pc.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - test

> Hi, I was wondering if I could ask you some questions? I have the same
truck
> with a 351M and was considering doing the same with the 460. Could you
tell
> me what is invlolved with it. I know I have to change motor mounts and do
> some exhaust work, but I dont know what else I need to do. Any help you
cna
> give me would be greatly appreciated.
>
> John
- -------------------

Overall, it is rather simple. A company called L&L Products sells a kit that
really makes it easy. (no cutting here/welding there). They are near
Dallas, TX ....972-475-5202. A complete kit(with headers) will be ~1000.00
for automatic tranny or ~1800.00 for a manual tranny. If I had to do it
over again, I would go this route.

You will need to make sure your transmission will bolt up. I beleive the 460
and 351M have the same bolt patterns(somone will correct me if I am wrong).
If you dont have a C6, I would recommend one.
You will need the right brackets for the alternator, A/C, power steering,
etc....It is best to find a donor truck that has all of these. Getting
brackets from different years and trucks do not always match-up.
The only 'fitting-in' problem I ran into was valve covers. I wanted to use
the cool looking Tall Aluminum covers with FORD stamped on them. They will
not fit under the OEM A/C Heater Core/Blower.

You can see mine here: www.hal-pc.org/~charlest/ford.html



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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:38:39 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New truck!! 8^)

In a message dated 1/4/00 8:07:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
nukegm ford-trucks.com writes:

>
> Here we go again!
>
> Later on.........geez I love these old trucks!!!!!

Congrats on the new acquisition! Let the fun begin! Send pictures!

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 19:52:32 -0800 (PST)
From: canzus seanet.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car

At 04:09 PM 4:1:00 -0800, John Kosche wrote:
>I've got a 65 Ranchero (Yeah, Yeah in know it's not really a truck) It's a
>289 - C4 combo. I'm collecting parts to do a 5.0L (Roller motor) and AOD
>swap.. I need a reference to a good Transmission guy in the Seattle area
>to Rebuild the AOD.
>

Two I can think of are Warner Transmission, and the tranny shop
in North Bend, beside the NAPA. Warner is on the corner of 1st Ave So
and Meyers Way.

E-mail privately me for better directions...

Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in.....
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....

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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:55:18 -0500
From: "Matthew Schwartz" fast.net>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - c6 continuous problems

This transmission was part of a driveable truck that I purchased for it's
460/C6 combo. When I pulled the engine and transmission, I decided to
rebuild both units. The tranny fluid was good when I sent it for a rebuild.
The first transmission shop rebuilt the tranny and it did not last 25
miles. Those symptoms were unique. The first sound was a high pitch
squealing that never returned. After that first symptom occured the
transmission would ocassionally grind ( sounded as if the starter was eating
the flywheel teeth) while in drive. The other symptom was more of a concern;
on a hard stop it felt as if the transmission would "slide" into the engine
hard. The truck would actually bang hard. The engine never stalled during
these episodes.. When that symptom first occured I swore someone hit the
truck solid in the back. After checking the motor / tranny mounts and
connecting bolts, I felt the only thing it could be was the tranny. So
without moving the truck I shifted the gears slowly through the range. It
did not take long to get the "sliding...bang" sensation albeit a little less
fierce.

I was forced to take it to another tranny shop because the first shop took a
month (lots of excuses) to tell me it was 100% and he found nothing wrong.
He admitted he did not even pull the pan, just a three mile test drive. The
tranny about blew driving home. So much for the independent shop.

The next shop found that the sprauge gear had blown apart, easy to
tell...black plastic bits were in the pan. Note though that the fluid was
not burnt.

Now my current problem. The fluid burns after 50 miles approx. This
continues to occur despite 6 total visits to the tranny shop. The first time
I noticed burning I took it back immediately. They told me they suspected
that my timing was advanced to much which heated the engine and then the
tranny. They said the tranny appeared to be ok, they changed the fluid and
told me not to worry....it was under warranty. I did not buy the reasoning..
I traveled up a steep incline previously with no engine dentonation nor
overheating. The timing was on the money on a fresh engine and was running
fine. I told them I was heading back up the relatively small mountainous
area to move a friend...so they better be right....don't worry, it's under
warranty they said.

So the next trip, the tranny started to squeal badly at 15 miles. By the
time I reached my destination ( 30 miles) the tranny had a meltdown. Smoke
came from the filler tube and I could not touch the tranny body or the
tranny fluid stick for over 2 hours. Why did I continue? Because they had
one free chance to fix it right before real damage occured and all they did
was change the burnt fluid and tell me not to worry...it was under warranty.
Now they had to eat the tow charge and I got my friends load to his house.
By the way a fresh 460/C6 with a new 4 core radiator in a 2WD "78 F-250
Camper Special carrying mattresses and box springs does not blow trannys
normally.

Now they were forced to rebuild the whole tranny again. What is replaced I
do not know but I do know that while the transmission fluid had boiled away
in the tranny, the fluid in the raditor was cool and red. No pumping action.
I had inspected the lines and they looked good. Maybe clogged...? I asked
them if they normally blow and check drain rate on lines before
installing....yes they say.

I assume they had to replace multiple items after that meltdown. They told
me that they found the problem to be the replacement front pump that they
installed earlier. They opened it up and found it was faulty from the
manufacturer.

So when they give the truck back to me, I drive it on short stints with no
problem. I haven't reached 20 miles yet though. Then on a flat highway doing
65MPH , I smell tranny fluid, then a few miles later...something like tranny
fluid...and finally at my destination...anything but tranny fluid. Another
meltdown. ANother tow.

They now claim that they think it is that it needs an auxilary cooler... and
another front pump. This time though they bypass the radiator entirely and
go to the aux. cooler only. A "no no"...but they believed the raditaor
somehow has something to do with it..they are scratching for worms now. You
guessed it...without the radiator in line with the cooler , it fries faster
on the next trip. Hey...they now KNOW the radiator is good.

Now on the next visit I tell them, I want this tranny pulled and thrown in a
corner and they can rebuild another unit from a yard and put it in. They
agree but the mechanic decides that he will change the manual valve body and
main body case. The tranny melts down again.

Now I tell them that I have had it... time for a refund and I will put a
yard tranny in myself. They ask for one more chance. Now they will change
the Bellhousing and replace the coolant lines (no rubber) and hook up the
aux. cooler to the radiator. OK one more chance, if it is done by tomarrow.
They deliver it to me, confident that they have solved the problem. This
tranny was driven over 60 miles by their guy and I had gotten at least 40
more before it started burning fluid again.

So they told me they have replaced EVERTHING in the tranny except the output
shaft and tail. But note that they did not replace everything at once. Over
time they may have...so I believe that some other problem is causing the
front pump to fail. My question is what other component other then the
tranny, lines and radiator can cause a rapid failure of the front pump. I
can't believe this is due to them installing a torque converter wrong every
time. The frame and mounts for engine and tranny are fine. What else could
this be?

Matt

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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:55:16 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2 wheel drive front suspension

Im not sure of all years, but my company has an 83 F-150 SWB with stamped
arms.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 20:51:19 PST
From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sort of off the subject

Greetings,
I recently had to replace the water pump on my wifes '93 Pontiac Grand-AM,
to get to the water pump I had to remove the exhaust manifold, when I put it
back together I reused the gasket (couldn't find a new one at the time) now
when it is cold in the morning I am noticing an excessive amount of clear
water coming from the tail pipes, could the used gasket be letting too much
air by and thus cause the condenstion.

TIA, (sorry for the off subject post)

Christopher Worley
'67 F100 LWB
'93 F150 SC 351

______________________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 21:00:00 PST
From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings

Had the same problem on a Ni**an I once owned, I went to the parts store and
found a product called "Wire Dryer" sprayed it in the distributor cab,
worked perfect for many many many miles, I sold the truck a year later and
to my knowledge they had no problem with it

Hope this helps, let me know how it went

Chris Worley
'93 F150 SC 351
'67 F100 LWB


>From: "Chuck White" jps.net>
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: "61-79 Ford Trucks" <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings
>Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 14:13:50 -0800
>
>Just to recap I have been having occasional problems with really rough
>running on cold and wet mornings for the first couple of minutes after
>startup. Thanks to all of your suggestions concerning carburetor and choke
>problems. The choke is working perfectly and the carburetor also appears
>to
>be working perfectly. This morning the same thing happened again. Thinking
>about the rainy weather I took off the distributor cap. I couldn't see any
>moisture in there but I wiped it out with a rag anyway and that seemed to
>solve the problem. Does anybody know if there is anything made for this
>type of problem that I can spray on the inside of the cap to prevent this
>from happening. I thought of silicone but I don't want to mess anything up
>without checking first. And I sure don't want to have to stand out in the
>rain wiping the cap to make it go.
>
>Chuck
>'71 F-250 390 C-6
>
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______________________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 21:02:49 -0800
From: Mike Pacheco USWEST.NET>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car

John: Try Seattle Transmission 241-5656, they do good work... specialize
in toploaders also...
Mike in Burien
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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 21:10:49 -0800
From: Scott grossen ucs.orst.edu>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - i believe i've sinned

Hi im scott i dont know if i've ever posted before, i'm a college
student at Oregon State, majoring in mechanical engineering. 20 years
old.
love ford trucks all my family has is fords.

anyway couple weeks ago i was looking for a parts truck to find a good
box for my '79 F-150, thats all i wanted was a box and maybe some doors.
i came across an ad in the local newspaper about a 78 in good condition
over on the beach. i was skeptical about a beach truck, but it had been
garaged all its life. so my dad and i drove over to see it.
the truck was a 78 2 wheel drive f-150 custom. the truck had 54,000
miles on it original the paint was a original metallic dark green still
beautiful there where three dings in the whole body and two small dents
inside the bed on the fenderwells the entire bdy had been undercoated
originally and nothing underneath had rusted it still had the inner
fenders and the dual tanks were straight, the new alloy wheels and 31"
tires had only 14,000 miles on them and someone had a nice sony cd
player installed.
i payed the man directly and drove the truck for 2 weeks while i worked
then i took a week off and stripped the truck completely i switched the
cab over to four wheel drive and an automatic and put it on my converted
4 wheel drive that i just did. i kind of feel bad for tearing a great
truck apart, but i feel better knowing that its a much better truck now
with 4wd and an automatic nothing against the 4-speed but the clutch was
shot and it wouldnt fit my engine.
did i sin doing this or is its resurection as a better truck worth it.

also if anyone is in the Portland Salem area i have the following
parts for sale
from green truck 78 f150 54000 miles original
302 runs intake manifold leaks no smoke from tail pipe
4 speed shifts great looks like new inside clutch no good
drive line 2 piece rear
would prefer to sell rolling frame intact all parts but body
from 79 xlt
entire body box has rust through over fenderwells door bottoms slight
rust
front fenders excellent good hood
good cab for deluxe heater has hole for transfercase lever
all trim still on truck heater and air conditioning are not for sale
all else goes
9" rear end no drums seals leak
351m good block some parts missing one cylinder has bad valve guides
motor ran strong but leaked in one cylinder fairly bad 150,000mi
c6 fits 351m 400 429 460
random parts
hood
box slightly bent head board
2wd steering box
4wd steering box no sector shaft
rf fender
green seat
rear fuel tank has epoxy on bottom no leak
miscellaneous interior parts
79 2wd driveline
miscellaneous other parts

if any one is interested in any of these parts please email me at
grossens ucs.orst.edu
and i can quote prices all stuff is in woodburn betwwen portland and
salem
sorry about the length of this message so heres some humor "life is
anything that dies when you stomp on it " dave barry
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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 23:15:13 -0600
From: ballingr bootheel.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mechanics Wire

This
wasn't on my fix list this week so may wind up with mechanic's wire on it
:-) It is a Ford after all and we know we don't have to go under the hood
all that often, eh? :-)
>>>>>>

If I don't have any of it in use, I wrap a piece around the frame, just so
it remembers it's a Ford. :-)



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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:54:40 -0800
From: "Doug Neely" bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - new member

Welcome to the list, this is the place to be for TLC stuff
Cheers,
Doug

- -----Original Message-----
From: ROCH FRAPPIER attcanada.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 1:05 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - new member


>Just to say hello since I'm new to the list. I own a 1977 f100 flareside,
>400 engine and in need of lots of TLC. Hope to be driving it soon.
>
>
Rocky
>
>
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>

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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 22:15:36 PST
From: "White Wolf" hotmail.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals

Is there anything I can put on my existing rubber seals(ie. Windshield,
windows, vents) to keep it from cracking any more and possible re-expand
them?


Corey
______________________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 01:35:20 EST
From: SevnD2 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals

Yes , there is a spray that helps . The glass shops use silicone spray . May
not close cracks but will keep rubber seals in better shape . Makes them more
flexible .
Hope this helps .
Rollie
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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:40:32 -0800
From: "Chris Samuel" email.msn.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Headshake

Ox.
If you have replaced everything and all of the connection points in the
suspension are in fact tight. If you have rechecked everything, and observed
all of the pivot points in motion. I think that is everything that you have
listed so far.

If the shaking is occurring on a semi-smooth surface like pavement and over
about 20 MPH then my guess is, you in all likelihood have one of two
problems.
Your toe setting is off, as in Toe zero to out.
The steering gear box is loose on the frame, the pitman arm is loose, or the
gear box worn out or the preload is wrong.
I am going to guess that it's the toe in. You replaced the bushings and some
other stuff and then the problem showed up? The tires got bigger somewhere
in here too as I recall.
Check the toe (which is easy to do at home) and if it is at factory specs,
then add about 1/32" and try it again. When setting the toe IME the larger
the tire the more that is required. I learned how to do this back in my J##p
dayz. If you think that Headshake is bad in a F/S Bronco try it with an 89"
wheel base! When running the J##p's on the fire roads at krazy speeds with a
manual Saginaw gear box the last thing that you want is a damper or shake.
Over the years I have had to learn how to tuning the front end to run
without monkey motion. Generally I run more toe in on a beam axil with 33" &
up tires and have little need for the damper, only using them to control
feedback when running off road. The vary simple reason for the increased Toe
with large tires is the dynamic loading of the steering. There is more force
attempting to pull the tires apart, or increasing the Toe.
I have never experienced excess caster as inducing shake, tire wear yes, but
not shake, maybe I have never cranked in enough to do it though...
Every time that I have gone chasing shake it has been the Toe, something
loose, or the gear box.
Call me stubborn but I have found that it is better to just give the truck
what it wants and toss the factory specs 99% of the time.

Just my twobitz.
Muel


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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 22:49:59 PST
From: "White Wolf" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals

Thanks... Do you think the auto stores might have it?



>Yes , there is a spray that helps . The glass shops use silicone spray .
>May
>not close cracks but will keep rubber seals in better shape . Makes them
>more
>flexible .
>Hope this helps .
>Rollie

______________________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 02:49:00 EST
From: SevnD2 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals

I have seen some form of it in a parts store . Be careful what you buy
because some of them leave a coating behind . They are for tires and shine
and all of that pretty stuff . I like my truck to look tough not pretty ! LOL
Hope this helps !
Rollie
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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 23:10:03 -0900
From: "Matthew Schumacher" 7x.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - new cam for my 390

Hello all,

I am putting a new cam in my truck next weekend (just got all the parts)
and wanted to ask if anyone had any tips or short cuts I can use when
installing my new cam.

I ordered this cam for pulling and performance:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cranecams.com/cgi-bin/spec.cgi?database=SPECCARD.tab&form=CardSamp.htm&id=343942

Then I learned that I need new springs so I ordered the matched crane
springs, which means I will need to pull the heads :(

After I got that all sorted out, I learned that I have a retarded cam
sprocket so I ordered a new edelbrock timing gear set with all the
markings on it. It seems that crane doesn't make the timing gear set,
but the edelbrock one looked like it would do the job.

I think between these three parts and a gasket set I am all ready to
go....

Hopefully I can get a audio file up on my web site when it's done. I am
expecting it to sound mean... :)

schu
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Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 00:12:30 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - new cam for my 390

I think we could refrain from name calling on this list. I think your timing
set is more properly termed as performance challenged...not retarded.
Remember sprockets have feelings too.

Seriously tho' you don't have to pull the heads to change the springs if you
have an air compressor, the right fittings and the right valve spring tool.
Just attach one end of the fitting to the air supply, screw the fitting into
the spark plug hole and pressurize the cylinder. Air pressure will keep the
valves closed while you change the springs. I use the hose that came with my
comp tester. It has the right fittings on both ends.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Schumacher ....


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