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From: owner-61-79-list-digest To: 61-79-list-digest Subject: 61-79-list-digest V4 #4 Reply-To: 61-79-list Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Wednesday, January 5 2000 Volume 04 : Number 004 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE RE: FTE 61-79 - Whoops.....Ouch!..locks & keys Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE FTE 61-79 - California Dreamin'.... FTE 61-79 - HEGH-Y Output Shaft FTE 61-79 - 390 FE VS the new 5.4 FTE 61-79 - Tire Balancing FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car FTE 61-79 - New truck!! 8^) Re: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car Re: FTE 61-79 - Stainless Valves FTE 61-79 - Starliners with F-E's FTE 61-79 - Re: Rough running on Damp mornings Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE VS the new 5.4 FTE 61-79 - 390 engine rebuild (propane) FTE 61-79 - Highboys FTE 61-79 - Azie 5sp/3sp aux FTE 61-79 - 78 f250 extended cab for sale Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 engine rebuild (propane) Re: FTE 61-79 - test Re: FTE 61-79 - test Re: FTE 61-79 - New truck!! 8^) Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car RE: FTE 61-79 - c6 continuous problems Re: FTE 61-79 - 2 wheel drive front suspension FTE 61-79 - Sort of off the subject Re: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car FTE 61-79 - i believe i've sinned FTE 61-79 - Mechanics Wire Re: FTE 61-79 - new member FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals FTE 61-79 - Re: Headshake Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals FTE 61-79 - new cam for my 390 Re: FTE 61-79 - new cam for my 390 FTE 61-79 - Magazines ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:57:54 -0600 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE > What is the rival of the 390? (in engine). > Can the 390 out pull a 400/351m? In stock form (stock for stock) I'd say the rival is probably the 460 ... the 400 and 351M were built to replace the 390/360 combo, but due to impending emssions requirements and such, I'm not sure they actually lived up to the legacy in the power department (stock for stock here) ... when it comes to modified motors I think they all end up on par based on what amount of money you're willing to spend on one and how many revs you're pulling, etc. I have seen some hot running motors, both 390's and 400's ... never got to race em though (gotta buddy with a hopped up 400 in a truck similar to mine, it would be an interesting race :) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:26:09 -0700 From: "Bertolin" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Whoops.....Ouch!..locks & keys Daniel wrote: as long as we are speaking of holding the hoods shut, are there > any hood locks that are kept out of sight? how bought a better > ignition key set?? theft always concerns me, even though any > half wit thief could hot wire and old ford. I used to laugh at > the movies at how quick a guy could hot wire one, until I owned > and old truck!! My brother welded a bracket on my truck that allows for a concealed padlock in the grill. The main reason was to discourage theft of battery etc. but it also serves the purpose of insuring hood won't fly up. Roberta with 1965 F-100 Custom Cab == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 15:21:58 -0800 From: "A Bernal" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE what about the 429? - ----- Original Message ----- From: "William S. Hart" To: <61-79-list Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 2:57 PM Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE > > What is the rival of the 390? (in engine). > > Can the 390 out pull a 400/351m? > > In stock form (stock for stock) I'd say the rival is probably the 460 ... > the 400 and 351M were built to replace the 390/360 combo, but due to > impending emssions requirements and such, I'm not sure they actually lived > up to the legacy in the power department (stock for stock here) ... when it > comes to modified motors I think they all end up on par based on what amount > of money you're willing to spend on one and how many revs you're pulling, > etc. > > I have seen some hot running motors, both 390's and 400's ... never got to > race em though (gotta buddy with a hopped up 400 in a truck similar to mine, > it would be an interesting race :) > > Just my $.02 > wish > > 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L > 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 18:32:02 EST From: OldTrux Subject: FTE 61-79 - California Dreamin'.... This midwest boy (Chicago 'burbs) will finally get to see the Pacific Ocean come March!! While I am there (on business), I thought about checking out salvage yards, used parts, custom trucks..... Can anyone recommend places to visit around Long Beach? Any fun places to visit (in addition to the salvage yards)? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:42:18 -0800 From: "O'Connor" Subject: FTE 61-79 - HEGH-Y Output Shaft Help, Does anyone have an output shaft for a medium duty Ford 3-speed transmission (HEG-Y). It's the one for a short wheelbase that will fit my 66 F100. It uses a slip yoke instead of the bolt on yoke that longbeds use! Tim == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 15:44:44 -0800 From: "A Bernal" Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE VS the new 5.4 Can a 390FE out pull a new 1999/2000 Ford with the v8 5.4L? ( I think it is 5.4L) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 18:07:18 -0800 From: "Charles T." Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tire Balancing Need a little help on my 79 F150 4x4... I have a set of Q78LT16 Buckshot Mudder Tires (36 inches tall) mounted on aluminum wheels(16 inch). The tires are BIASED PLY, not radial. When trying to balance them, the computer showed that each would need 15-19 ounzes of weight. The tire shop said that this much weight would cause just as much 'Shake' as not balancing them at all. He reccommended not balancing them. Is this information correct? If so, will I be able to drive on the street at all?? (60-70mph)?? If not, anyone in the market for a set of offroad tires? I know these are not good street tires, but was hoping they would do for a while anyway. Charles Tyer 79 F150 4x4 79 F150 2x4 95 Windstar (SWMBO) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:09:40 -0800 From: "John Kosche" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car I've got a 65 Ranchero (Yeah, Yeah in know it's not really a truck) It's a 289 - C4 combo. I'm collecting parts to do a 5.0L (Roller motor) and AOD swap.. I need a reference to a good Transmission guy in the Seattle area to Rebuild the AOD. Thanks - -john == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 19:09:06 -0600 From: Stu Varner Subject: FTE 61-79 - New truck!! 8^) Well ladies and gents, I bought the 1968 F-100, SWB, 2 wheel drive, 31,000 original mile, pebble beige truck I have been referring to over the last few days. It does have a nice 240 inline 6 banger and a Light duty 3 speed tranny with 3.70 rear end. Marino will love that! I will have my work cut out for me as I will need to replace the entire front suspension including I-beams, radius arms and tie rod. They were munched to heck and back. Frame has been straightened so things should work out smoothly - I hope! It also needs an entirely new front cap. I also bought a very straight and rust free hood to go with it from a 72. Thank God I live in the "rust free" (TN) south instead of the "rust belt" of West Virginia where I grew up. BTW- I am looking for an undented and rust free 1968 or 1969 painted grille shell and headlight doors as well as turn signal lenses if anyone has this for sale out there in FTE land. E-mail me off list for specs and pricing. Here we go again! Later on.........geez I love these old trucks!!!!! Stu Nuke GM! 1971 F-100 4x4 360 4 speed 1968 F-100 2x4 240 inline 3 speed == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:04:24 -0500 From: "Brad Smith" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings - ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck White To: 61-79 Ford Trucks <61-79-list Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 5:13 PM Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings > Just to recap I have been having occasional problems with really rough > running on cold and wet mornings for the first couple of minutes after > startup. Thanks to all of your suggestions concerning carburetor and choke > problems. The choke is working perfectly and the carburetor also appears to > be working perfectly. This morning the same thing happened again. Thinking > about the rainy weather I took off the distributor cap. I couldn't see any > moisture in there but I wiped it out with a rag anyway and that seemed to > solve the problem. Does anybody know if there is anything made for this > type of problem that I can spray on the inside of the cap to prevent this > from happening. I thought of silicone but I don't want to mess anything up > without checking first. And I sure don't want to have to stand out in the > rain wiping the cap to make it go. > > Chuck > '71 F-250 390 C-6 Replace the cap with a vented one... I've never heard of putting anything inside the cap, because any drying agent is going to be tough on the contacts.... Good luck. Brad == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:07:36 -0500 From: "Brad Smith" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE - ----- Original Message ----- From: A Bernal To: <61-79-list Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 6:21 PM Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE > what about the 429? > The 429 is a little better for top end, whereas the longer stroked 460 would have more torque (again, stock for stock). == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:11:50 -0500 From: "Brad Smith" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car - ----- Original Message ----- From: John Kosche To: <61-79-list Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 7:09 PM Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car > I've got a 65 Ranchero (Yeah, Yeah in know it's not really a truck) It's a > 289 - C4 combo. I'm collecting parts to do a 5.0L (Roller motor) and AOD > swap.. I need a reference to a good Transmission guy in the Seattle area > to Rebuild the AOD. > > Thanks > > -john Do it yourself!!! Save tons o money... Brad == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 17:15:02 PST From: "George Litton" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stainless Valves BILL, Considering the application of this engine, the multi-groove will work fine. The purpose of the multi-groove is for valve rotation. If you look at the keepers, you will see that they butt against each other. A single groove set-up does not do this. There is a small gap between the keepers to "lock" the valve in place. The single groove set-up relies on the 7 degree taper of the lock to hold the valve in place. For high rpm use, the single groove is superior, but low rpm trucks live just fine with the multi groove. Another consideration is the change-over cost. Hardened multi-groove keepers are out there, and that is recommened for high-lift cams[.490 and greater lift]. >From: "Bill Beyer" >Reply-To: 61-79-list >To: "Offroad List" >List" ><61-79-list >Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stainless Valves >Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 08:29:57 -0800 > >All other things being equal (price, availability, etc.), should I go with >multi groove keeper or single groove keeper stainless valves on my 400? > >"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" > > > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 20:46:13 -0600 From: oldfords63 Subject: FTE 61-79 - Starliners with F-E's Man Azie- you probably hate it that you sold that one! I've got a 63 1/2, and I sure hate to let go of it. Later, Phil ________________________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 20:50:43 -0600 From: oldfords63 Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rough running on Damp mornings > Thinking about the rainy weather I took off the distributor cap. >Does anybody know if there is anything made for this type of problem that I can spray on the >inside of the cap to prevent this from happening. ============================================================= Chuck- try a product from CRC called 5-56, it's a real good moisture displacer. Make sure your cap is vented too. Some times blowby or other moisture gets in there and can't get out. Check wires and coil too. (in the dark if ya can ) zap, zap.......Good luck, Phil ________________________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 20:31:34 -0600 From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 FE VS the new 5.4 I would be inclined to say yes, a 390 should out pull a 5.4L. However, with out knowing the hp and torque numbers of the 5.4L, I'm not positive. Jason Kendrick A Bernal wrote: > > Can a 390FE out pull a new 1999/2000 Ford with the v8 5.4L? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:52:52 -0800 From: Jamie Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 engine rebuild (propane) I have a '68 F250 with a 360 (converted to propane) and it just rolled over 100k miles. In pursuit of additional power and to try something I've never done, I would like to get my hands on a rebuildable 390, take my time in rebuilding it, and replace my 360 with the rebuild. My intention is to try and get 300+ horsepower from the 390 by means of a mild cam (RV??), increased compression ratio (propane is apparently about 110 - not sure up to what CR I can go to...), and maybe headers and dual exhaust, budget permitting. For the sake of trying to keep things as simple as possible, I'm wondering if I'll need to replace my existing stock carb and intake manifold (2 barrel). The reason I hesitate to mess with the carburation is because the carb seems to provide more than enough fuel for the horsepower I'm interested in. I currently get about 11 miles per gallon so I figure that should translate into a fair amount of available fuel. The other thing is I'm a little nervous to start messing with the propane set-up unless I really need to. Maybe it's not so much a matter of needing to make extra fuel available for the bigger motor but rather improving the efficiency of getting that air-fuel mixture to the cylinders......intake manifold?? Just throwing it out there... One of the "neat" things about my existing propane setup is that it feeds the 360 through my stock air cleaner and 2 barrel carb - no special aftermarket carb. During the conversion process the shop cut the base off the air cleaner housing and in its place riveted a propane injection ring (for lack of a better description). The propane line from the evaporator runs to this "ring" at the base of the air cleaner housing and the air-propane mixture continues through the venturis and intake manifold as did the air-gas mixture. All the carb linkages remain intact except the manual choke has been disconnected. Seems like a fairly elegant/simple set-up. Bottom line, I want more horsepower, and happy to replace pistons, cam, and exhaust system but really don't want to mess with the carb and/or intake manifold unless its foolish not to given the time and $$ invested in such a job. Any comments or suggestions would be very kindly appreciated. Rob Vancouver BC, Canada 68 F250 360 ci, automatic, camper special 94 Mustang GT 5.0L == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: 4 Jan 00 21:57:41 EST From: "Dave W." Subject: FTE 61-79 - Highboys Hey all. Saw the questions on Highboys. = Highboys were made up to the middle of 1977. To be a true Highboy it must have heavy front axle with big hubs, 6 leaf spring pack in front, 9 leaf pack in rear. The lighter 3/4 ton 4x4's do s= it high but aren't considered the highboys Dave Complete and Total FordNut, Highboy Nut(I have 7), and FE Nut too!!!= ! ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=3D1 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:12:09 -0600 From: "Bob & Becky Elliott" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Azie 5sp/3sp aux Azie, I have a number of questions about your aux trans set up. I understand the shifting of the all manual set up, but how will you shift the aux behind the c-6? It seems to me there was some discussion about getting t-cases in & out of gear behind an auto. To a certain extent, it seems as if you could simulate double clutching by letting up on the gas and going into OD. I have a 5sp out of a 64 F700 but I can find no markings to ID it by.Do you have any ideas on what to look for? What bellhousing do you use to mate a 460 & Clark? I want to put a 5sp/aux in my 79 F250 crewcab as a camper pull rig, and a 460/5sp/aux/205 in my F150 Supercab. If you need some pictures of aux mounting brackets, let me know. I have 1 in a International, and 2 hanging on a rack I'm going to send this to you, because I'm not sure it pretains to the list. Bob == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:01:08 EST From: JJJJJGRANT Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 f250 extended cab for sale a friend of mine has a 1978 f250 2wd, extended cab, short bed for sale, it has a 460, automatic trans, power steering, ac, etc. its not a real pretty truck, but not bad either, i think it has the original paint (brown and tan two tone) he wants $3000.00 for it. if anyone is interested tou can call him at 770-412-0429, 8-5 eastern standard time,his name is mark, jeff grant == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 19:11:50 -0800 From: John Lord Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 engine rebuild (propane) If you want any direct answers to propane questions, your welcome to email me directly, I do my own conversions and can help anyone in regards to installation and troubleshooting. In regards to a rebuild propane is 105 to 115 octane, so you can up the compression ratio to at least 11 and up to 13 to 1 depending on how your using your truck if you haul alot or tow, stay near 11 to 11.5 to 1. I am running my F250 4x4 Crew Cab at 13.5 to one and it is a little high when towing. At those ratio's i recommend you just throw out the Gasoline system all together, it would tend to preignite (even with octane boost and retarted timing) under load. The timing advance curves are also very different between propane and gasoline you can purchase ignition boxes that will change the timing when you swap fuels but it still isnt perfect. You can throw out your 2bbl carb and manifold for a 4bbl if you want, you do not need to change the injection ring (properly called a mixer), If you want to run straight propane you can usually (depending on the brand of mixer) simply buy an adapter and attach it to the baseplate of the old carburator (the part of the carb with the butterflys). If you rebuild an engine properly for propane you will have the horsepower you need (and more) If you email me with the brand name of your propane system (on the evaporator *converter*) i should be able to give you some tip's on setting it up. Jamie wrote: > I have a '68 F250 with a 360 (converted to propane) and it just rolled > over 100k miles. In pursuit of additional power and to try something > I've never done, I would like to get my hands on a rebuildable 390, take > my time in rebuilding it, and replace my 360 with the rebuild. My > intention is to try and get 300+ horsepower from the 390 by means of a > mild cam (RV??), increased compression ratio (propane is apparently > about 110 - not sure up to what CR I can go to...), and maybe headers > and dual exhaust, budget permitting. For the sake of trying to keep > things as simple as possible, I'm wondering if I'll need to replace my > existing stock carb and intake manifold (2 barrel). The reason I > hesitate to mess with the carburation is because the carb seems to > provide more than enough fuel for the horsepower I'm interested in. I > currently get about 11 miles per gallon so I figure that should > translate into a fair amount of available fuel. The other thing is I'm > a little nervous to start messing with the propane set-up unless I > really need to. Maybe it's not so much a matter of needing to make > extra fuel available for the bigger motor but rather improving the > efficiency of getting that air-fuel mixture to the cylinders......intake > manifold?? Just throwing it out there... > > One of the "neat" things about my existing propane setup is that it > feeds the 360 through my stock air cleaner and 2 barrel carb - no > special aftermarket carb. During the conversion process the shop cut > the base off the air cleaner housing and in its place riveted a propane > injection ring (for lack of a better description). The propane line > from the evaporator runs to this "ring" at the base of the air cleaner > housing and the air-propane mixture continues through the venturis and > intake manifold as did the air-gas mixture. All the carb linkages > remain intact except the manual choke has been disconnected. Seems like > a fairly elegant/simple set-up. > > Bottom line, I want more horsepower, and happy to replace pistons, cam, > and exhaust system but really don't want to mess with the carb and/or > intake manifold unless its foolish not to given the time and $$ invested > in such a job. Any comments or suggestions would be very kindly > appreciated. > > Rob > > Vancouver BC, Canada > > 68 F250 360 ci, automatic, camper special > 94 Mustang GT 5.0L > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 19:20:04 PST From: "Christopher Worley" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - test Got it >From: "Charles T." >Reply-To: 61-79-list >To: <61-79-list >Subject: FTE 61-79 - test >Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:57:06 -0800 > >other post didn't go thru.....testing this one > >79 F150 4x4 swb 460 swap > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:23:22 -0800 From: "Charles T." Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - test > Hi, I was wondering if I could ask you some questions? I have the same truck > with a 351M and was considering doing the same with the 460. Could you tell > me what is invlolved with it. I know I have to change motor mounts and do > some exhaust work, but I dont know what else I need to do. Any help you cna > give me would be greatly appreciated. > > John - ------------------- Overall, it is rather simple. A company called L&L Products sells a kit that really makes it easy. (no cutting here/welding there). They are near Dallas, TX ....972-475-5202. A complete kit(with headers) will be ~1000.00 for automatic tranny or ~1800.00 for a manual tranny. If I had to do it over again, I would go this route. You will need to make sure your transmission will bolt up. I beleive the 460 and 351M have the same bolt patterns(somone will correct me if I am wrong). If you dont have a C6, I would recommend one. You will need the right brackets for the alternator, A/C, power steering, etc....It is best to find a donor truck that has all of these. Getting brackets from different years and trucks do not always match-up. The only 'fitting-in' problem I ran into was valve covers. I wanted to use the cool looking Tall Aluminum covers with FORD stamped on them. They will not fit under the OEM A/C Heater Core/Blower. You can see mine here: www.hal-pc.org/~charlest/ford.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:38:39 EST From: TBeeee Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New truck!! 8^) In a message dated 1/4/00 8:07:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, nukegm > > Here we go again! > > Later on.........geez I love these old trucks!!!!! Congrats on the new acquisition! Let the fun begin! Send pictures! Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 19:52:32 -0800 (PST) From: canzus Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car At 04:09 PM 4:1:00 -0800, John Kosche wrote: >I've got a 65 Ranchero (Yeah, Yeah in know it's not really a truck) It's a >289 - C4 combo. I'm collecting parts to do a 5.0L (Roller motor) and AOD >swap.. I need a reference to a good Transmission guy in the Seattle area >to Rebuild the AOD. > Two I can think of are Warner Transmission, and the tranny shop in North Bend, beside the NAPA. Warner is on the corner of 1st Ave So and Meyers Way. E-mail privately me for better directions... Steve & the Rockette 68 F100, 390cid, FMX 63 F100, 292cid, 3speed 72 Capri 2000, hers 73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in..... 73 MGB GT, Our Toy 94 SHO, SWMBO's 98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine.... == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:55:18 -0500 From: "Matthew Schwartz" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - c6 continuous problems This transmission was part of a driveable truck that I purchased for it's 460/C6 combo. When I pulled the engine and transmission, I decided to rebuild both units. The tranny fluid was good when I sent it for a rebuild. The first transmission shop rebuilt the tranny and it did not last 25 miles. Those symptoms were unique. The first sound was a high pitch squealing that never returned. After that first symptom occured the transmission would ocassionally grind ( sounded as if the starter was eating the flywheel teeth) while in drive. The other symptom was more of a concern; on a hard stop it felt as if the transmission would "slide" into the engine hard. The truck would actually bang hard. The engine never stalled during these episodes.. When that symptom first occured I swore someone hit the truck solid in the back. After checking the motor / tranny mounts and connecting bolts, I felt the only thing it could be was the tranny. So without moving the truck I shifted the gears slowly through the range. It did not take long to get the "sliding...bang" sensation albeit a little less fierce. I was forced to take it to another tranny shop because the first shop took a month (lots of excuses) to tell me it was 100% and he found nothing wrong. He admitted he did not even pull the pan, just a three mile test drive. The tranny about blew driving home. So much for the independent shop. The next shop found that the sprauge gear had blown apart, easy to tell...black plastic bits were in the pan. Note though that the fluid was not burnt. Now my current problem. The fluid burns after 50 miles approx. This continues to occur despite 6 total visits to the tranny shop. The first time I noticed burning I took it back immediately. They told me they suspected that my timing was advanced to much which heated the engine and then the tranny. They said the tranny appeared to be ok, they changed the fluid and told me not to worry....it was under warranty. I did not buy the reasoning.. I traveled up a steep incline previously with no engine dentonation nor overheating. The timing was on the money on a fresh engine and was running fine. I told them I was heading back up the relatively small mountainous area to move a friend...so they better be right....don't worry, it's under warranty they said. So the next trip, the tranny started to squeal badly at 15 miles. By the time I reached my destination ( 30 miles) the tranny had a meltdown. Smoke came from the filler tube and I could not touch the tranny body or the tranny fluid stick for over 2 hours. Why did I continue? Because they had one free chance to fix it right before real damage occured and all they did was change the burnt fluid and tell me not to worry...it was under warranty. Now they had to eat the tow charge and I got my friends load to his house. By the way a fresh 460/C6 with a new 4 core radiator in a 2WD "78 F-250 Camper Special carrying mattresses and box springs does not blow trannys normally. Now they were forced to rebuild the whole tranny again. What is replaced I do not know but I do know that while the transmission fluid had boiled away in the tranny, the fluid in the raditor was cool and red. No pumping action. I had inspected the lines and they looked good. Maybe clogged...? I asked them if they normally blow and check drain rate on lines before installing....yes they say. I assume they had to replace multiple items after that meltdown. They told me that they found the problem to be the replacement front pump that they installed earlier. They opened it up and found it was faulty from the manufacturer. So when they give the truck back to me, I drive it on short stints with no problem. I haven't reached 20 miles yet though. Then on a flat highway doing 65MPH , I smell tranny fluid, then a few miles later...something like tranny fluid...and finally at my destination...anything but tranny fluid. Another meltdown. ANother tow. They now claim that they think it is that it needs an auxilary cooler... and another front pump. This time though they bypass the radiator entirely and go to the aux. cooler only. A "no no"...but they believed the raditaor somehow has something to do with it..they are scratching for worms now. You guessed it...without the radiator in line with the cooler , it fries faster on the next trip. Hey...they now KNOW the radiator is good. Now on the next visit I tell them, I want this tranny pulled and thrown in a corner and they can rebuild another unit from a yard and put it in. They agree but the mechanic decides that he will change the manual valve body and main body case. The tranny melts down again. Now I tell them that I have had it... time for a refund and I will put a yard tranny in myself. They ask for one more chance. Now they will change the Bellhousing and replace the coolant lines (no rubber) and hook up the aux. cooler to the radiator. OK one more chance, if it is done by tomarrow. They deliver it to me, confident that they have solved the problem. This tranny was driven over 60 miles by their guy and I had gotten at least 40 more before it started burning fluid again. So they told me they have replaced EVERTHING in the tranny except the output shaft and tail. But note that they did not replace everything at once. Over time they may have...so I believe that some other problem is causing the front pump to fail. My question is what other component other then the tranny, lines and radiator can cause a rapid failure of the front pump. I can't believe this is due to them installing a torque converter wrong every time. The frame and mounts for engine and tranny are fine. What else could this be? Matt == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:55:16 EST From: JUMPINFORD Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2 wheel drive front suspension Im not sure of all years, but my company has an 83 F-150 SWB with stamped arms. Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 20:51:19 PST From: "Christopher Worley" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sort of off the subject Greetings, I recently had to replace the water pump on my wifes '93 Pontiac Grand-AM, to get to the water pump I had to remove the exhaust manifold, when I put it back together I reused the gasket (couldn't find a new one at the time) now when it is cold in the morning I am noticing an excessive amount of clear water coming from the tail pipes, could the used gasket be letting too much air by and thus cause the condenstion. TIA, (sorry for the off subject post) Christopher Worley '67 F100 LWB '93 F150 SC 351 ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 21:00:00 PST From: "Christopher Worley" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings Had the same problem on a Ni**an I once owned, I went to the parts store and found a product called "Wire Dryer" sprayed it in the distributor cab, worked perfect for many many many miles, I sold the truck a year later and to my knowledge they had no problem with it Hope this helps, let me know how it went Chris Worley '93 F150 SC 351 '67 F100 LWB >From: "Chuck White" >Reply-To: 61-79-list >To: "61-79 Ford Trucks" <61-79-list >Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on Damp mornings >Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 14:13:50 -0800 > >Just to recap I have been having occasional problems with really rough >running on cold and wet mornings for the first couple of minutes after >startup. Thanks to all of your suggestions concerning carburetor and choke >problems. The choke is working perfectly and the carburetor also appears >to >be working perfectly. This morning the same thing happened again. Thinking >about the rainy weather I took off the distributor cap. I couldn't see any >moisture in there but I wiped it out with a rag anyway and that seemed to >solve the problem. Does anybody know if there is anything made for this >type of problem that I can spray on the inside of the cap to prevent this >from happening. I thought of silicone but I don't want to mess anything up >without checking first. And I sure don't want to have to stand out in the >rain wiping the cap to make it go. > >Chuck >'71 F-250 390 C-6 > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 21:02:49 -0800 From: Mike Pacheco Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck or Car John: Try Seattle Transmission 241-5656, they do good work... specialize in toploaders also... Mike in Burien == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 21:10:49 -0800 From: Scott grossen Subject: FTE 61-79 - i believe i've sinned Hi im scott i dont know if i've ever posted before, i'm a college student at Oregon State, majoring in mechanical engineering. 20 years old. love ford trucks all my family has is fords. anyway couple weeks ago i was looking for a parts truck to find a good box for my '79 F-150, thats all i wanted was a box and maybe some doors. i came across an ad in the local newspaper about a 78 in good condition over on the beach. i was skeptical about a beach truck, but it had been garaged all its life. so my dad and i drove over to see it. the truck was a 78 2 wheel drive f-150 custom. the truck had 54,000 miles on it original the paint was a original metallic dark green still beautiful there where three dings in the whole body and two small dents inside the bed on the fenderwells the entire bdy had been undercoated originally and nothing underneath had rusted it still had the inner fenders and the dual tanks were straight, the new alloy wheels and 31" tires had only 14,000 miles on them and someone had a nice sony cd player installed. i payed the man directly and drove the truck for 2 weeks while i worked then i took a week off and stripped the truck completely i switched the cab over to four wheel drive and an automatic and put it on my converted 4 wheel drive that i just did. i kind of feel bad for tearing a great truck apart, but i feel better knowing that its a much better truck now with 4wd and an automatic nothing against the 4-speed but the clutch was shot and it wouldnt fit my engine. did i sin doing this or is its resurection as a better truck worth it. also if anyone is in the Portland Salem area i have the following parts for sale from green truck 78 f150 54000 miles original 302 runs intake manifold leaks no smoke from tail pipe 4 speed shifts great looks like new inside clutch no good drive line 2 piece rear would prefer to sell rolling frame intact all parts but body from 79 xlt entire body box has rust through over fenderwells door bottoms slight rust front fenders excellent good hood good cab for deluxe heater has hole for transfercase lever all trim still on truck heater and air conditioning are not for sale all else goes 9" rear end no drums seals leak 351m good block some parts missing one cylinder has bad valve guides motor ran strong but leaked in one cylinder fairly bad 150,000mi c6 fits 351m 400 429 460 random parts hood box slightly bent head board 2wd steering box 4wd steering box no sector shaft rf fender green seat rear fuel tank has epoxy on bottom no leak miscellaneous interior parts 79 2wd driveline miscellaneous other parts if any one is interested in any of these parts please email me at grossens and i can quote prices all stuff is in woodburn betwwen portland and salem sorry about the length of this message so heres some humor "life is anything that dies when you stomp on it " dave barry == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 23:15:13 -0600 From: ballingr Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mechanics Wire This wasn't on my fix list this week so may wind up with mechanic's wire on it :-) It is a Ford after all and we know we don't have to go under the hood all that often, eh? :-) >>>>>> If I don't have any of it in use, I wrap a piece around the frame, just so it remembers it's a Ford. :-) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:54:40 -0800 From: "Doug Neely" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - new member Welcome to the list, this is the place to be for TLC stuff Cheers, Doug - -----Original Message----- From: ROCH FRAPPIER To: 61-79-list Date: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 1:05 PM Subject: FTE 61-79 - new member >Just to say hello since I'm new to the list. I own a 1977 f100 flareside, >400 engine and in need of lots of TLC. Hope to be driving it soon. > > Rocky > > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 22:15:36 PST From: "White Wolf" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals Is there anything I can put on my existing rubber seals(ie. Windshield, windows, vents) to keep it from cracking any more and possible re-expand them? Corey ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 01:35:20 EST From: SevnD2 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals Yes , there is a spray that helps . The glass shops use silicone spray . May not close cracks but will keep rubber seals in better shape . Makes them more flexible . Hope this helps . Rollie == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:40:32 -0800 From: "Chris Samuel" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Headshake Ox. If you have replaced everything and all of the connection points in the suspension are in fact tight. If you have rechecked everything, and observed all of the pivot points in motion. I think that is everything that you have listed so far. If the shaking is occurring on a semi-smooth surface like pavement and over about 20 MPH then my guess is, you in all likelihood have one of two problems. Your toe setting is off, as in Toe The steering gear box is loose on the frame, the pitman arm is loose, or the gear box worn out or the preload is wrong. I am going to guess that it's the toe in. You replaced the bushings and some other stuff and then the problem showed up? The tires got bigger somewhere in here too as I recall. Check the toe (which is easy to do at home) and if it is at factory specs, then add about 1/32" and try it again. When setting the toe IME the larger the tire the more that is required. I learned how to do this back in my J##p dayz. If you think that Headshake is bad in a F/S Bronco try it with an 89" wheel base! When running the J##p's on the fire roads at krazy speeds with a manual Saginaw gear box the last thing that you want is a damper or shake. Over the years I have had to learn how to tuning the front end to run without monkey motion. Generally I run more toe in on a beam axil with 33" & up tires and have little need for the damper, only using them to control feedback when running off road. The vary simple reason for the increased Toe with large tires is the dynamic loading of the steering. There is more force attempting to pull the tires apart, or increasing the Toe. I have never experienced excess caster as inducing shake, tire wear yes, but not shake, maybe I have never cranked in enough to do it though... Every time that I have gone chasing shake it has been the Toe, something loose, or the gear box. Call me stubborn but I have found that it is better to just give the truck what it wants and toss the factory specs 99% of the time. Just my twobitz. Muel == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 22:49:59 PST From: "White Wolf" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals Thanks... Do you think the auto stores might have it? >Yes , there is a spray that helps . The glass shops use silicone spray . >May >not close cracks but will keep rubber seals in better shape . Makes them >more >flexible . >Hope this helps . >Rollie ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 02:49:00 EST From: SevnD2 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rubber Seals I have seen some form of it in a parts store . Be careful what you buy because some of them leave a coating behind . They are for tires and shine and all of that pretty stuff . I like my truck to look tough not pretty ! LOL Hope this helps ! Rollie == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 23:10:03 -0900 From: "Matthew Schumacher" Subject: FTE 61-79 - new cam for my 390 Hello all, I am putting a new cam in my truck next weekend (just got all the parts) and wanted to ask if anyone had any tips or short cuts I can use when installing my new cam. I ordered this cam for pulling and performance: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cranecams.com/cgi-bin/spec.cgi?database=SPECCARD.tab&form=CardSamp.htm&id=343942 Then I learned that I need new springs so I ordered the matched crane springs, which means I will need to pull the heads :( After I got that all sorted out, I learned that I have a retarded cam sprocket so I ordered a new edelbrock timing gear set with all the markings on it. It seems that crane doesn't make the timing gear set, but the edelbrock one looked like it would do the job. I think between these three parts and a gasket set I am all ready to go.... Hopefully I can get a audio file up on my web site when it's done. I am expecting it to sound mean... :) schu == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 00:12:30 -0800 From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - new cam for my 390 I think we could refrain from name calling on this list. I think your timing set is more properly termed as performance challenged...not retarded. Remember sprockets have feelings too. Seriously tho' you don't have to pull the heads to change the springs if you have an air compressor, the right fittings and the right valve spring tool. Just attach one end of the fitting to the air supply, screw the fitting into the spark plug hole and pressurize the cylinder. Air pressure will keep the valves closed while you change the springs. I use the hose that came with my comp tester. It has the right fittings on both ends. "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" - ----- Original Message ----- From: Matthew Schumacher To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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