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From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #480
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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, December 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 480



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - 69 Bronco 4x4 Drivetrain into 67 Econoline Superv an?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2
FTE 61-79 - Carbs,Oil leaks, heaters, spare time....??
RE: FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4
RE: FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings
RE: FTE 61-79 - Loose 205 shift lever
FTE 61-79 - Survey
RE: FTE 61-79 - Dexron vs Ford ATF
Re: FTE 61-79 - Carbs,Oil leaks, heaters, spare time....??
RE: FTE 61-79 - Dexron vs Ford ATF
RE: FTE 61-79 - Carbs,Oil leaks, heaters, spare time....??
FTE 61-79 - Names
FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)
FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey
FTE 61-79 - Fwd: TEXAS scrap law.......again!
FTE 61-79 - Fuel Pump woes
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Charity Event (HELP!)
RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: TEXAS scrap law.......again!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: TEXAS scrap law.......again!
FTE 61-79 - Truck Survey
FTE 61-79 - F250/350 73-79 crewcab 4x4s
Re: FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4
RE: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
Re: FTE 61-79 - F250/350 73-79 crewcab 4x4s
RE: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
FTE 61-79 - Re: '79 f100 4x4
FTE 61-79 - Re: Truck Use Survey
FTE 61-79 - RE-Truck Use Survey 2
FTE 61-79 - Re: Axle rebuild - Alignment
RE: FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Axle rebuild - Alignment
RE: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
RE: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Axle rebuild - Alignment
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Survey
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Axle rebuild - Alignment
Re: FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 06:25:08 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 69 Bronco 4x4 Drivetrain into 67 Econoline Superv an?

Not a crazy idea! :-) I did a 75 van but the older ones might even be a
better choice due to having the whole engine exposed under the cover.
Getting it in and out may pose a problem though :-) Depending on how you do
it you can keep the cross member and modify it or cut it out and replace it
up front with a stiffener but if you use coil springs you will need to
stiffen the frame or it will twist due to the forces of the suspension. As
long as you keep that in mind it will work just fine.

The 75 already had the steering box in the correct position for the dana 44
so all I had to do is make the radius arm brackets and track bar bracket and
modify the steering links. The springs fit right in to the original
locations and if I had had the original bronco spring pads I wouldn't have
had to fab anything. Can't remember what I did with the shocks but seems
like they were pretty easy too. I kept the cross member so fitting the diff
housing into it was the hardest part of the whole operation.

Not sure about the older setup but I believe you may have trouble with the
steering box location among other things. The 75 "style" (not sure what
year that started) is really perfect for this swap. If you have a complete
donor bronco with radius arm brackets and spring perches you are home free
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Just out of curiosity, do y'all think it'll fit? I know there
> has got to be
> some modification to the chassis, but how much? The 302
> should go right in
> w/crossmember changes. Help me out - nee to get this crazy
> idea out of my
> head.
>
> Tom
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 06:34:14 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

the heater circuit is the engine warm up circuit. If a heater hose is
kinked the engine can not circulate coolant before the thermostat opens and
the thermostat will never open due to steam in the heads etc etc etc...it's
a viscious circle then ends with blown gaskets and cracked heads etc....Make
sure the core is not plugged as well.

If you fix the kink you should fix the over heating unless something else
got changed you've forgoten about?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> my heater is blowing icy air,,,,i've foudn the heater
> problem,,,the "new"
> hose has a kink and is copllapsing,,,,the overheating Im
> guessing is a bad
> thermostat,,,,but i wanted you guys to bring up any other
> things that could
> cause it to overheat,,,BTW its now "dieseling" and won't shut
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 04:51:55 -0700
From: "Michael White" csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2

"And the survey says"....

> 1. What year and model truck do you have?
> 2. Which of the following best describes your truck:
>
> A. Competely restored to showroom condition or better
> B. Unrestored original or amateur restoration. From 30 feet
> it looks like a new truck.
> C. Running truck with decent body and mostly original
> components but needs work.
> D. Project truck which needs a motor, driveline, or bodywork
> before being drivable.
>
> 3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?
............................

The "Ugly Green Truck" = 69 F250 CS with 10k miles on my first 390
rebuild (Erson double roller, 428 cam specs, 10:1 flattops .060 over, high
volume oil pump, Holley 4bbl 600CFM with manual choke & vacuum
secondaries), new ReadyRad Heat Buster 4 core radiator with shroud, Hooker
comp headers, Magna Flow muffler with 3" tailpipe exiting behind passenger
rear tire at 45 degrees, T-18 with 12" CenterForce Dual Friction clutch,
Dana 60 2 piece case LS 3.55 with new ring/pinion/bearings/clutchplates,
HD Ujoints, factory air, power disc brakes, dual tanks, and toolbox in bed.

Looks horrible but has only 10k miles on entire drive train making it
an "extremely reliable" method of transportation. I keep meaning to put some
tools in the toolbox, but there's only a bottleneck jack & tire iron there
with a spare under the bed behind the rear axle in case of a flat tire.

I'd bet it would drive many thousands of miles before needing anything
but fuel 9-13 MPG. It still looks just as ugly as the day I bought it for
$225 but it's "bad to the bone"!
......

The "Nice Looking Red Truck" = 69 F250 with 1,000 miles on my 2nd 390
4bbl rebuild which started as a 360 2bbl (same specs as first engine except
.030 flattops 10:1), new ReadyRad Heat Buster 4 core radiator with shroud,
dual exhaust, rebuilt C6 with 4.11 rear, power disc brake conversion using
all new parts, dual tanks.

Low original mileage and often garaged kept this truck in pretty decent
shape for being 30 years old.

I'm avoiding driving this truck often until I'm able to upgrade the
exhaust system with headers and rebuild the rear end. Once that has been
done, the truck would be able to travel many thousands of trouble free miles
before needing any repair.
......


Danger
danger csolutions.net




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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:26:55 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Carbs,Oil leaks, heaters, spare time....??

Holy Dynosaur BatMan! Oil everywhere! What can it be???!!! Went from 1
qt/2 weeks to 1 qt/wk! Oil on the sides, oil in the rear, oil on the
bottom......oil everywhere! Where OH, WHERE is it coming from???!!! I
don't mind working on projects as long as they are not my daily driver, this
stinks! Oil pan leaks, dip stick tube leaks at the pan, valve covers (new
gaskets not too long ago) leak and now......I believe the intake manifold
may be leaking at the rear :-(

Rediscovered (already knew but forgot :-)) that the Holley (Motorcraft??)
has an integral pull off in the choke housing and it does work
but......there is no fast idle and I have to idle it up or choke the snot
out of it to keep it running in the am.....that stinks! #$%$# The linkage
part that goes on the end of the throttle shaft does not harmonize with the
plastic cam part. There is either a part missing or it's the wrong part for
this carb. A slightly different shape with longer arm would work and it
looks like it is supposed to contact the cam directly but it's not even
close and there was no position I could put either the cam or the arm in to
make them connect so......I idled it up for the winter.......GOD! I hate
poor designs and boogered up parts! #$%^%$##

There is a seal between the carb body and choke housing for the pull off
circuit and mine was gone so I stuck an "O" ring in there and it seems to be
working :-) I also bought new gaskets (2 thin ones) for the base and the
old one was so delapidated that I believe this may have been the whole
warpage problem. Seems to work smoothely now with new gaskets and clean
surfaces :-)

While attempting to remove a vac line I also removed the tube it was
attached to #$#^^^%$##.....that now has blue rtv on it :-( Tried to expand
the tube to no avail, too thick to respond to a punch :-( when I get time I
will red loctite it in or epoxy it in.

I have two springs on the throttle arm and thanks to a reminder from one of
the group I will be looking for a way to attach them directly to the
throttle linkage instead since the carb has it's own return spring in the
event the link falls off (again :-)) Now that the carb is not warped I may
not need both springs to get it to idle :-)

Got to try out the 4wd last night and it seems in good order :-) Pirelli
Scorpions seem to work well on the ice too :-) The have already proven
themselves in the rain. Still not as good as a narrower tire but pretty
darned good for a fat one for sure :-)

Got to try out my new heater in the barn too and that worked much better
than I thought it might but it sucks my tanks dry pretty quick on full
blast. I ran some 3/4" black pipe across the barn and down the wall near
the lift, at the back (front?) end of the work bay area I plan to enclose
and hooked the hose up permanently to a ball valve protected by the barn
wall post. I simply move the heater out of the way to drive in and put it
back in the center of the room and close the drapes for a cozy heated area.
Haven't got that part set up yet so last night I just turned it on, drove up
to within about 5' of the heater and went to work. I got the chill off so I
could work without gloves most of the time and was very comfy with winter
clothes on (under coveralls)....didn't need a coat, just a nice heavy
flannel shirt :-) I was afraid I would have to wait a long time for it to
heat up but it worked very well on the spur of the moment so my investmant
certainly will pay for itself quickly :-)


- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:59:56 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4

Most of these kinds of parts can be found in the JCW catalog and Dennis
Carpenter and AutoKrafters among others have this kind of stuff as well.

The 390 with proper gearing and tuned for the altitude etc.. will pull
anything you put on it but an F-100 is limited in stock condition for
weight. It implies 1/2 ton and that's what it means but you can easily fix
that with a few additional leaves in the rear springs. If you do this you
also must get longer shocks so they don't top out and limit your droop
travel. This can be very disconcerting running empty on a rough
road......:-( ....don't ask :-(

My 67 F-100 would not handle two full grown quarter horses in the
back.....bummmer....and a 2000# trailer with two more in it hooked on the
hitch......BUMMER!!! Couple of leaves and it would have been great to drive
loaded that way with a 352 engine, smaller brother to the 390 :-)

Those guys would get to swaying sideways and when they got
syncronized........WHOA! Must be the drone of the engine and tires was like
music to them cuz they always would sway to and fro on trips......:-) Had
to wonder sometimes if they actually knew what they were doing.....Naaaw!

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Does anyone know where to get those rubber panels that keep
> the mud out of
> the side of the truck? (1 behind each wheel) This truck has
> an auxiliary
> gas tank. How much does it hold? And it's using a 390 engine,
> short bed, how
> much can one load on it? and how much can it pull?
> Appreciate any help. I'm not really literate in the pickup
> world. but I'm
> trying to learn.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:24:27 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings

I've found that you have to drop the "I" beams all the way down to get
enough room to clear the brackets on 2wd. I understand this is impossible
on TTB without actually removing the brackets.

I jack them up, set them on good jack stands, remove the wheels and springs
and shocks then it's fairly easy to do but still have to use a pry bar to
get them "safely" where you want them. Be carefull with this because you
will be pushing and shoving on the truck while under it. a long piece of
1-1/4 or 1-1/2 pipe does a nice job, the longer the better so you don't have
to wiggle the truck on the stands and you can hold it easily with one hand
while you work on the end with the other that way. A 3' pry bar may be
sufficient but takes more effort.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I have to replace the radius arm insulators. Picked up some
> neoprene ones.
> Do I really have to remove the coils? If I pry the tire
> ahead while putting
> my foot on the frame will that work enough to slip the end of
> the radius arm
> end out?
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:25:30 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Loose 205 shift lever

Do you mean the nut or bolt that the lever pivots on?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> How do you guys keep the shift lever on your np205 T.C. tight. Mine
> seems to get loose very quick when i shift between 2 and 4wd,
> especially
> when going up into 4low. Cause when it gets loose the shifts
> are sloppy
> and it rattle away like heck.
>
> Thanks
> Kirk Baillie
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:29:09 -0600
From: "Jeffery Hansen" hotmail.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Survey

1. What year and model truck do you have?
'79 F-150 4WD ('69 429/NP435)
2. Do you drive it everyday or is it a "hobby" truck?
When it was running - every single day - but I wouldn't call it a
"hobby" truck either - more like a third job just to keep it going.
3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a
routine basis?
I spent the summer rebuilding this truck - mechanically - both
engine and transmission - front axle - rear axle. Was going to drive it to
Missouri NOV98 for deer season - a week before it developed this horrendous
vibration - it sat at home. Was going to drive it to Missouri this NOV 99
deer season - counter shaft bearing went out of the transmission not a week
before again - it sat at home and is STILL sitting - with a black and red
lettered sign in the windshield (wife's orders). Does "wanting really bad"
to drive it anywhere count - without fear something is going to break?
Jeffery A. Hansen, HMC(SW/AW/FMF) USN
Independent Duty Hospital Corpsman
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:38:00 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dexron vs Ford ATF

On a heavy vehicle you want some pretty secure, quick shifts or you will
wear out the internals very quickly. My 5k# van with C-6 and number one or
level one shift kit did just about right for me. One reason the AOD has so
many problems is someone wanted it to be "smooth" so messed with the line
pressures to the clutches in the lock up converter. So instead of a nice,
quick, snap which is hardly felt at normal throttle settings on the highway
we have this big, long, hesitaiton with no power to the wheels while it
shifts into OD and also locks, sort of, the converter. One of the fixes for
this tranny "vastly" improves the line pressure to the converter clutches
which has to tell you something.......The fact that the clutches begin to
slip at only 40k miles also has to be telling you something :-(

The beauty of the shift kit is that under normal throttle operation for
cruising from here to there it shifts very quietly and smoothly but when you
have some power applied it will jump in hard like it should under those
conditions. If it didn't you would burn the snot out of all the clutches
and bands involved in the shift. When you put a young, wet behind the ears,
engineer on a job and add a management trained PR Man for a boss this is
what you get which is fine for the mom taking the kids to school or grabbing
a few groceries in the family wagon but in a truck this is not acceptable.
I noticed that the E4OD in my daughter's truck shifts pretty clean most of
the time, still pretty smooth but "quick", not like the stupid, useless,
commie made AODE :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> smoother. The only way I can tell that Henry's C6 shifts is a
> drop in RPM.
> That's the way it should be IMHO. To me a harder shift means
> more wear and
> tear.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 06:42:06 -0700
From: "Michael White" csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Carbs,Oil leaks, heaters, spare time....??

> Rediscovered (already knew but forgot :-)) that the Holley (Motorcraft??)
> has an integral pull off in the choke housing and it does work
> but......there is no fast idle and I have to idle it up or choke the snot
> out of it to keep it running in the am.....that stinks! #$%$# The
linkage
> part that goes on the end of the throttle shaft does not harmonize with
the
> plastic cam part. There is either a part missing or it's the wrong part
for
> this carb. A slightly different shape with longer arm would work and it
> looks like it is supposed to contact the cam directly but it's not even
> close and there was no position I could put either the cam or the arm in
to
> make them connect so......I idled it up for the winter.......GOD! I hate
> poor designs and boogered up parts! #$%^%$##

> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
...............

The linkage which mounts to the end of the primary throttle shaft should
have an adjustment screw (with spring to retain location) that passes
through it which contacts the fast idle cam when the choke is used. When
changing choke types, you must also change this linkage. It is possible that
somebody switched choke types and didn't switch the linkage. It is also
possible that the linkage is broken at its weakest spot (where the
adjustment screw passes through it) and needs to be replaced. You may need
to add a screw (with a spring from ballpoint pen perhaps) to your existing
linkage or you may need to change linkage types. If it's the linkage you
need, I should be able to dig something up and mail it to you if you'd like.
I've got an assortment of Holley carbs & parts and would be glad to help.


Danger
danger csolutions.net



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:58:56 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dexron vs Ford ATF

How much wear and tear does a stick put on the drive line? Do you always
shift smoothely? Do most people shift smoothely? They generally hold up
pretty well, eh?

When you make an auto shift quickly you have to overcome the oil between the
clutch plates or bands and drums to "smack" them shut. Besides convenience,
one of the reasons the band is always used on second gear it so it will come
in smoothely when passing etc. where there is considerable rpm and line
pressure. The harder you step on it the harder it will shift which is
exactly as it should be but where do you draw the line? Under what load do
we decide we need that quicker shift to protect the parts? Therein lyes the
rub!

My wife doesn't even want to know or care one hoot about what gear it's in
and couldn't care less if it is even in gear as long as it goes down the
road....smooth is cool for her but she is not a mechanic nor a rocket
scientist nor a trucker, she can't even tell when the stupid AOD converter
is slipping when it's rattling my teeth! Now, let's hire her to engineer
the shift patterns of the new tranny.......I work with engineers with the
same amount of understanding so it's obvious to me that there's no
hope.....:-( Intelligent design is always overruled by PR.


- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > Believe it or not, harder shifts actually mean less wear...
> If a tranny
> > shifts slow and smooth, the bands are engaging slowly
>
>
> Of course that's on the tranny side of things that that's
> true ... hammering
> the crap out of your u-joints and drive shafts with a hard
> shift is always
> good for them too right ? ;)
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:07:17 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Carbs,Oil leaks, heaters, spare time....??

I had a bunch too but recently tossed a lot of them, darn it! I do have
several base plates with throttle shafts in them to look at and will have
more time this weekend to mess with it. Last night I was just trying to
make a quick fix but wasted a lot of time over this. I can actually use the
part that is on there to weld some junk on to and make it work, just need
more time to play with it.

The fast idle cam is the most important part of the whole shebang in my
opinion. I hated it when big brother put plastic caps on all the
adjustments (which I promptly removed) and I hate it when a manufacturer
dictates to me what I will have to put up with (EFI) and I hate it when I
can't adjust my own fast idle setup........:-( I always re-adjust my
headlights when I get a new car too.......I just like to adjust things :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> is possible that
> somebody switched choke types and didn't switch the linkage.
> It is also
> possible that the linkage is broken at its weakest spot (where the
> adjustment screw passes through it) and needs to be replaced.
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Dec 1999 13:13:36 -0600
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Names

>> I didn't write it to offend anyone, but I thought to inspire, as I felt
inspired as I wrote it. Please feel free to translate the names if you
wish<<

I quite enjoyed it. One story that can never be told too often.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 22:13:15 -0600
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)

>>Ok, well thanks a bunch Gary. Hopefully Ill begin to work on the origional C6
from my bronco. I think it's got the wide ratio gearset that you talk about
cause this new one just dont feel right or the same. This new one shifts
great, but it always feels like Im lugging and seems to be shifting early
(at
low rpms mostly).<<

George,

If you can stick a tach on your truck, you could get a better idea of
whether or not you have a wide ratio C6. Even on an easy startup you will
get a relatively large rpm drop on the 1-2 upshift. Since the widrat (new
term I just coined) was used in front of low numbered diffs, the low gear is
sort of like a granny in a 4 speed. Because of this, I'm pretty sure you
can't hold a widrat in low if you wind up the engine. I never tried it, but
I think I read that it will shift to 2nd even if the selector is in low if
the rpms exceed some certain limit. I'll have to hunt for that reference. I
might be confusing with the od in my Towncar, which has no selector position
for 2nd at all.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Dec 1999 13:38:28 -0600
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey

>>CJ and I have had a running discussion concerning the reliability of our
old trucks and there suitability for everyday use. If you would answer
the answering the following three questions and post them to the list. I
will tally the results and post them back to the list one week from
today.<<

>>1. What year and model truck do you have?<<
1979 F150, long wide bed, regular cab, 351M, C6, air, PS, PB, 76K miles

>>2. Do you drive it everyday or is it a "hobby" truck?<<
daily driver first, hobby second

>> 2a. Which of the following best describes your truck:
B. amateur restoration (2 years old). From 30 feet it looks better than a
new truck.

>>3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?<<
My truck is capable, and I trust it, but I wouldn't abuse my truck in this
fashion. If I was driving cross country as in regular business trips, I
would lease a diesel and drive it. I do take from 2 to 5 road trips a year,
typically 230 miles or so round trip traveled in one day. Two years ago, my
brother drove Henry over 600 miles in one day at over 70 mph.

>>Feel free to include any additional comments. Thanks for the help!<<
See above :-).

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Dec 1999 13:50:22 -0600
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: TEXAS scrap law.......again!

>>Even if you don't live in one of the states doing this, I would hope the
thought of a rustfree California '61 F-100 Unibody going to the crusher
would be enough of a wakeup call that all should get knowledgeable on this
issue.<<

And...Texas is now considering adoption of California new car emission
standards. I haven't read anything about tail pipe tests for older vehicles
yet, but you can bet it isn't far behind. Ox, there soon may be no place to
hide.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:08:28 -0600
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel Pump woes

Do you remember back a few weeks how we were discussing fuel pumps and how
they quit in various manners? Henry's fuel pump did the pump gasoline into
the crankcase routine. I thought that I had been losing oil pressure, then I
decided it was just the screwy stock gauges. I had been noticing a foul odor
coming from the engine compartment when I would park similar to burning oil,
but I couldn't find a leak and I wasn't losing oil either. When I checked
the oil Monday around noon after a trip to town where the oil pressure
showed barely in Normal, the "oil" dripped off of the stick. Wrong. A quick
whiff revealed the distinct odor of gasoline. Closer examination of the
stick showed more fluid in the crankcase than belonged there. There was
never a gasoline leak to the outside. He did quit a couple of times for no
apparent reason, but restarted very easily. This one was unusual.

Now it's off to the parts house for a new pump.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:24:42 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Charity Event (HELP!)

Due to a late start, and low contributions, the annual charity
event has been extended to January 14th. Following is the
original announcement... Please help us out, both causes are
very worthy of your support.

The Association of Ford Truck Enthusiasts (AFTE), the non-profit
club made up of Ford Truck Enthusiasts (FTE) users, is holding
their first annual charity event (actually, their second, though
they were not yet organized as a club them).

This year, AFTE is raising funds for two causes:

1. a list member's son who is a paraplegic and could really
use a decent laptop with voice recognition software. He
became disabled last year and needless to say, he's not
in the best of spirits. I think we can bring a little
joy into his life.
2. the Georgia LoRiders, a long standing Ford truck club,
is raising money for the family of a child found in the
family swimming pool. The child is brain damaged and the
father must stay home to take care of him because the mother
is VERY pregnant. AFTE is going to donate any money left
over from item 1 to the Georgia LoRiders for this family.

There are three ways you can donate:

1. Send a check or money order to:
Association of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
re: Charity Drive
Box 562
Tecumseh, MI 49286-0562

2. Via credit card on the web. The FTE web site is set up
to take credit cards. We're going to add an item to the
cart for this. You'll be able to select any amount you
want. All funds will be forwarded to AFTE for their
drive. The address is:
www.motorhaven.com

3. Via credit card on voice mail. FTE's phone number is
770-806-1955. Leave name on card, type of card, card
number, expiration date and amount to donate. Also,
PLEASE leave an address so we can mail a receipt to you.
All funds will be forwarded to AFTE for their drive.
This number is busy in the evenings!

The laptop purchase receipt and the check cut to the Georgia LoRiders
will be scanned and placed on the web site so everyone will know their
donations were well spent. There will be zero administration costs.
All money will be spent for the charity. We're trying to raise at
least $1500.

Regards,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:30:08 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)

Low is Low in the C-6 and will not shift until you move the lever. Second
is second too in the same manner. The one tipoff, if everyting is stock,
that you have the wide ratio gear set is the heiney ratio. 3.25, 3.0 or
2.75 are all candidates but the 2.75 is almost a sure thing. If you got the
tranny from a yard then you will just have to feel the difference I suppose
since there is no way to measure the turns like you can with a stick. There
are probably numbers on the tag if it has one left on it but I wouldn't have
a clue what to look for.

I don't beleive this ratio was available before 76 or so, possibly not even
that early so if the tranny is older than that you have a standard ratio. I
suspect that at some point, all trucks wound up with it and possibly
Lincolns as well and perhaps some of the large wagons, especially with the
big block pattern engines. It "may" be that all big blocks had it after a
certain date and all small blocks had the standard, not sure, just
hypothesizing :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> get a relatively large rpm drop on the 1-2 upshift. Since the
> widrat (new
> term I just coined) was used in front of low numbered diffs,

> might be confusing with the od in my Towncar, which has no
> selector position
> for 2nd at all.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:39:32 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: TEXAS scrap law.......again!

John LaGrone wrote:
>
> >>Even if you don't live in one of the states doing this, I would hope the
> thought of a rustfree California '61 F-100 Unibody going to the crusher
> would be enough of a wakeup call that all should get knowledgeable on this
> issue.<<
>
> And...Texas is now considering adoption of California new car emission
> standards. I haven't read anything about tail pipe tests for older vehicles
> yet, but you can bet it isn't far behind. Ox, there soon may be no place to
> hide.
>

There is always australia. No guns, but do anything you want to your
trucks, go ahead, so I hear.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:46:22 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: TEXAS scrap law.......again!

Good place to retire too, prices are really great :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> There is always australia. No guns, but do anything you want to your
> trucks, go ahead, so I hear.
>
> OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:42:21 -0700
From: Andrew Antipas sopris.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck Survey

Dear FTE Listers,

Over 50 folks have responded to our survey which is focusing on truck
reliability. I will post the results of the Survey this weekend assuming
no Y2K problems. For those of you who missed the questions the first
time around here they are again. Friday is the last day to post your
answers! Thanks!

1. What year and model truck do you have?

2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

A. completely restored to showroom condition or better
B. unrestored original or amateur restoration. From 30 feet the
truck looks new
C. running truck with decent body and mostly original but needs work

D. Project truck which needs motor, driveline, or bodywork before
being drivable.

3. Is this an everyday truck or a weekend hobby truck?

4. Would you drive it cross-country on a routine basis?

As before, we welcome your comments and insights!

Regards,

Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:45:13 -0700
From: Andrew Antipas sopris.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F250/350 73-79 crewcab 4x4s

Noticed that someone out there in FTE land might have production numbers
for our old trucks. Does anyone know how many crewcab F250/350 4x4 where
built between 1973 and 1979. It would be interesting to know how many
standard cab F250 4x4 were built between those years as well.

Thanks,

Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:53:10 -0800
From: "A Bernal" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4

Thanks! The truck already has a 3'' lift. Would just adding the leavs and
leave the current shocks in (rancho rs 5000)
work? By the way, Is manual transmission better in that model than
automatic? (My pickup is shift stick)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 1999 4:59 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4


> Most of these kinds of parts can be found in the JCW catalog and Dennis
> Carpenter and AutoKrafters among others have this kind of stuff as well.
>
> The 390 with proper gearing and tuned for the altitude etc.. will pull
> anything you put on it but an F-100 is limited in stock condition for
> weight. It implies 1/2 ton and that's what it means but you can easily
fix
> that with a few additional leaves in the rear springs. If you do this you
> also must get longer shocks so they don't top out and limit your droop
> travel. This can be very disconcerting running empty on a rough
> road......:-( ....don't ask :-(
>
> My 67 F-100 would not handle two full grown quarter horses in the
> back.....bummmer....and a 2000# trailer with two more in it hooked on the
> hitch......BUMMER!!! Couple of leaves and it would have been great to
drive
> loaded that way with a 352 engine, smaller brother to the 390 :-)
>
> Those guys would get to swaying sideways and when they got
> syncronized........WHOA! Must be the drone of the engine and tires was
like
> music to them cuz they always would sway to and fro on trips......:-) Had
> to wonder sometimes if they actually knew what they were doing.....Naaaw!
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
> --
>
> > Does anyone know where to get those rubber panels that keep
> > the mud out of
> > the side of the truck? (1 behind each wheel) This truck has
> > an auxiliary
> > gas tank. How much does it hold? And it's using a 390 engine,
> > short bed, how
> > much can one load on it? and how much can it pull?
> > Appreciate any help. I'm not really literate in the pickup
> > world. but I'm
> > trying to learn.
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 10:02:35 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

> BTW its now "dieseling" and won't shut
> off,,,it ran an
> extra 2 minutes tonight,,,,,i don't like that at all,,,,,

That would be pretty annoying ... our 'stang did that (69) and we found it
was from having the idle set to high ... dad likes a thousand revs or so for
idle, I prefer 500 or so, we compromised and leaned it out a bit, shuts off
fine now :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 10:08:42 -0600
From: Stu Varner ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F250/350 73-79 crewcab 4x4s

Would also like to know how many 71 F-100 4x4's were built too if anyone
has those figures.
Also, could you share the source so I can buy the book??

Thanks!!!

Stu
Nuke GM!


At 08:45 AM 12/29/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Noticed that someone out there in FTE land might have production numbers
>for our old trucks. Does anyone know how many crewcab F250/350 4x4 where
>built between 1973 and 1979. It would be interesting to know how many
>standard cab F250 4x4 were built between those years as well.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Andy
>
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 10:04:06 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

> the heater circuit is the engine warm up circuit.

What about the bypass hose ? Or don't they have those on the 335/385 series
motors ? wouldn't that allow coolant to go through the water pump whether
the heater was hooked up or not ? (I ran my truck wih the heater "bypassed"
I think it kinked up and it sure didn't overheat any ... was frigid inside
though <0F )


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:06:01 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: '79 f100 4x4

A Bernal wrote:
> How much does it hold? And it's using a 390 engine, short bed, how
> much can one load on it? and how much can it pull?

Are you sure it is a 390? I believe the last year for 390's was '76.

If it is still there you should be able to read the GVWR from the
sticker you can see when you open the drivers door. As far as
towing you will have to find an owners manual. I have the towing
specs for '74 posted on my web page in a section called '74 Truck
Reference. See URL below.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
temporarily in live mode

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:42:28 -0800
From: Tim Bowman USWEST.NET>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Truck Use Survey

1. 71 F100, 360, 4 speed, Factory AM-FM, Sport Custom, PS, PB, Bone
Stock except for the wrapped steering wheel.
2. Could be a B-. Needs a repaint.
3. Mechanically it's capable; but that's why Boeing builds airplanes
and Hertz rents cars and trucks. Most of the time it sits waiting for
the next project. This week I'm driving it to work and back as I've
loaned my regular daily driver to a visiting family to use.

- --
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net

Original Questions:

1. What year and model truck do you have?

2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

A. Competely restored to showroom condition or better
B. Unrestored original or amateur restoration. From 30 feet
it looks like a new truck.
C. Running truck with decent body and mostly original
components but needs work.
D. Project truck which needs a motor, driveline, or bodywork

before being drivable.

3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?

Again, please feel free to include any additional comments.

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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:11:19 -0700
From: Mark Heims initco.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE-Truck Use Survey 2

1. What year and model truck do you have?
1978 F150 4x4, 400, NP 435, 3:50 gears, 3" lift, 35" tires

2. Which of the following best describes your truck:
I'd say B, but a fresh paint job is in it's future.
B. Unrestored original or amateur restoration. From 30 feet
it looks "mostly" like a new truck.

3. Do you drive it everyday or is it a "hobby" truck?
It used to be my daily driver, but it is my toy now.

4. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?
If I had a reason too, the family doesn't all fit in but I wouldn't
hesitate to take it anywhere. When I moved from Missouri to Montana, I
pulled a flatbed trailer full of my tools and stuff, The truck and
trailer combo weighed in at 12,600 pounds. I did lose a U-Joint on the
trip, but it waited until I was backing it in the parking spot at the
hotel. Gas mileage is another story though, 5-7 on this trip.

Montana Mark
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.initco.net/~mheims/index.html


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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:13:22 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Axle rebuild - Alignment

Gary wrote:
> This sleeve is simply a round, threaded bushing with a tapered hole
> to match the top ball joint and with 4 slots in the top for a spanner.
> Caster is handled by the "C" bushings and camber is handled by shims
> which go between the spindle and the spindle yoke.

After looking at mine with the castleated nut off I am sure this
bushing is not for alignment as Gary states. The preload explanation
makes sense to me.

What I need now is a method to get the ball joints loose. If I get
the spanner and turn the bushing counter-clockwise will it break the
upper joint loose?

Secondly, after all the talk about alignment I crudely measured the
camber at the flat faces on the knuckles. The pass. side is less than
a degree positive camber, but the drivers side looks like something
around 1.5 to 1.8 degrees positive. I made sure the face of the
knuckle was perpendicular to the axle tubes. Today I will try to make
some better measurements and try to figure out where the difference
is coming from.

This has me pretty concerned. Does anyone know what the spec
actually is?

I spent most of the day yesterday cleaning parts. Also ordered a
spider gear set that should be here tomorrow.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
temporarily in live mode

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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 11:36:16 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4

It may alrady have some stronger than stock springs in it if it's been
lifted so it may not be an issue for you. When you add leaves you raise the
chassis which extends the shocks. RS5000's come in all lengths so it could
be good or not, you have to measure some distances to be sure. The way I
would do this is to jack up the rear end so the tires are off the ground on
both sides then disconnect the shocks (actually do that first) then try to
put them back into place with axle hanging from the springs. If you can put
them back in place by hand without jacking up the axle then you are in good
shape but if they come up short you need to measure between the nubbers and
axle tube and compare that with the shock shaft length which is exposed at
full extension. The shock must both be long enough at full extension to
allow full droop and not bottom out when fully compressed against the
nubbers. The shocks should never be what limits axle travel or they will
eventually be damaged and quit working.

The extended shock rod length must be longer than the distance between the
axle and nubbers (when mounted at both ends) but at the same time must be
able to be fitted in to it's mount with axle hanging at full droop. In the
case of lifted vehicles or those with excessive leaves in the stack it may
require moving the top or bottom mounts to allow more angle (usually the
tops are moved inward).

If you exercise care in routing the oil cooler lines either tranny will do
the job except in the case of mud bogging and if you can mount the cooler in
the bed out of the way of flying mud even then the auto can be used with
success. That typicallly means a special purpose vehicle, not used for
hauling of course :-)

It's really a matter of personal preferance which is often driven by the
usage. I prefer the 4 speed in the snow because it it easier to get unstuck
and the granny is handy sometimes but the wide ratio C-6 will act like it
has a granny with a large engine since the converter slips to some extent
giving you a virtually infinite low gear at low rpms.

On the highway I like the C-6 because I'm lazy :-)

If my only choices for a truck were between the three on the tree and the
auto the auto would win hands down simply for the gear advantage. Low gear
in a three speed is way too high for decent truck work IMNSHO :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Thanks! The truck already has a 3'' lift. Would just adding
> the leavs and
> leave the current shocks in (rancho rs 5000)
> work? By the way, Is manual transmission better in that model than
> automatic? (My pickup is shift stick)
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 10:37:44 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Axle rebuild - Alignment

> What I need now is a method to get the ball joints loose. If I get
> the spanner and turn the bushing counter-clockwise will it break the
> upper joint loose?
>

Hehehe ... a really big hammer worked for me ... at least that got the
knuckle off .. just tap the bottom one a couple times and then hit the top
one ... leave the nut on so you have more surface to hit ... I think we went
through this last week sometime, but that's what I did and if you're
replacin the ball joints anyway ...

To actually get them replaced, if you don't have a press have someone do it,
we got most of them out the first time, but I"m lazy this time through and
just going to have a shop do it ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 11:39:22 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

Some do have a separate bypass hose and some don't. Not sure which ones but
if there is no bypass hose then what I said would be true :-) Sorry, forgot
about the little, irritating, hidden under everything imaginable stinking
bypass hose.........#$#$^%^%$# :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > the heater circuit is the engine warm up circuit.
>
> What about the bypass hose ? Or don't they have those on the
> 335/385 series
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 10:52:29 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

> Some do have a separate bypass hose and some don't. Not sure
> which ones but
> if there is no bypass hose then what I said would be true :-)

The one's I've worked on that do :

Windsors
FE's
Modulars


> Sorry, forgot
> about the little, irritating, hidden under everything imaginable stinking
> bypass hose.........#$#$^%^%$# :-)
>

Haven't looked at the 4.6 then have ya ... Ifound it the other day when I
pulled the alternator ... bein an overhead cam motor the alt. mounts
directly in the center (like the old flatheads sort of) ... well I pulled
that out and there's a rubber hose running down the middle of the valley in
the block, under the intake manifold even ... fortunately it looks like its
a braided hose that's rubber coated so it should last for years, but man
that will be some work to replace ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 11:55:18 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Axle rebuild - Alignment

If you leave the nut on the top one and tap them both the whole shebang will
drop down and you can then take off the nut and move the yoke to the bench
to work on it. There are pullers you can rent at some auto parts stores but
I believe I used my air chisel to drive them out. You really should support
the yoke to prevent damage (bending) if you try to hammer them out. They
are pretty strong but can be damaged with abuse. One or both may have a
snap ring on it too so make sure you check for this and remove any you find.
Typically only one has this to prevent the yoke falling off in the event
that both bores suddenly become enlarged for some arcane reason. Once you
press a set in you will have to wonder.......WHY??? :-)

The cleaner you can get the exposed surfaces before pressing them out the
easier they will come and less damage to the bores as well.

I agree, if you try it and they seem to be really stuck in there then get a
shop to press them, both, out and in for you. It will be worth every penny.
Don't forget to put the snap ring back on.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > What I need now is a method to get the ball joints loose. If I get
> > the spanner and turn the bushing counter-clockwise will it break the
> > upper joint loose?
> >
>
> Hehehe ... a really big hammer worked for me ... at least that got the
> knuckle off .. just tap the bottom one a couple times and
> then hit the top
> one ... leave the nut on so you have more surface to hit ...
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 16:54:09 GMT
From: byerks superford.org
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Survey

> 1. What year and model truck do you have?
76 F250 4x4

> 2. Which of the following best describes your truck:
I guess I would say C. Its an offroad machine.

> A. completely restored to showroom condition or better
> B. unrestored original or amateur restoration. From 30 feet the
> truck looks new
> C. running truck with decent body and mostly original but needs work
>
> D. Project truck which needs motor, driveline, or bodywork before
> being drivable.
>
> 3. Is this an everyday truck or a weekend hobby truck?
Just a toy now.

> 4. Would you drive it cross-country on a routine basis?
No.

Brett
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/fbird
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 11:03:20 -0600
From: Craig Cantrell kscable.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

Worked fine until the hose replacement, hmm.......My guess is trapped air in the
heater loop. Burp the system and make sure it is completely free of air. Most
engines will "run on" when overheated, but with a manual trans you shoudln't have
let it go for 2 minutes. Just engage a high gear, plant your foot firmly on the
brake and let the clutch out.

IanBoss69 aol.com wrote:

> Well a new problem has arisen,,,,I replaced the heater hoses due to the fact
> that they were starting to fall apart and now my engine is over heating and
> my heater is blowing icy air,,,,i've foudn the heater problem,,,the "new"
> hose has a kink and is copllapsing,,,,the overheating Im guessing is a bad
> thermostat,,,,but i wanted you guys to bring up any other things that could
> cause it to overheat,,,BTW its now "dieseling" and won't shut off,,,it ran an
> extra 2 minutes tonight,,,,,i don't like that at all,,,,,My guess is that the
> engine overheated and is burning the gas inside without the need for a
> spark,,,this is all just coming from my mind so if that cant be it let me
> know TIA
>
> Ian
> 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
> True Blue Ford Blue
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- --
Craig
- --
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc


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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 11:59:28 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Axle rebuild - Alignment

It is not unusual for one side to be different. Alignment shops use the
camber in most cases to adjust handling on crowned roads. The differences
are typically not very large though. Camber should always be below 1 degree
as far as I know. It's primary purpose is to reduce steering effort with a
known sacrifice to tire life.....it's called a "compromise" :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Secondly, after all the talk about alignment I crudely measured the
> camber at the flat faces on the knuckles. The pass. side is
> less than
> a degree positive camber, but the drivers side looks like something
> around 1.5 to 1.8 degrees positive. I made sure the face of the
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:10:48 -0800
From: "A Bernal" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4

OK! Thanks. I'll try it! So, do you think it is unnecesary to have a 390
engine in that truck? And, What's the purpose of a 390? Compared to other
engines, Small block 400 or fe blocks? I appreciate all anwsers you have
given me. Thanks again.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 1999 8:36 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4


> It may alrady have some stronger than stock springs in it if it's been
> lifted so it may not be an issue for you. When you add leaves you raise
the
> chassis which extends the shocks. RS5000's come in all lengths so it
could
> be good or not, you have to measure some distances to be sure. The way I
> would do this is to jack up the rear end so the tires are off the ground
on
> both sides then disconnect the shocks (actually do that first) then try to
> put them back into place with axle hanging from the springs. If you can
put
> them back in place by hand without jacking up the axle then you are in....


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